A Special Church in Tiberias: St. Peter’s Catholic Church

St. Peter holds a special place in the Catholic Church as the chosen apostle to lead Christ’s church. The main church in Christendom, St. Peter’s Basilica, is understandably named after him. So it is no surprise that, during a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, one would run into a few churches also named after him! I visited two such churches in Galilee. In this first of two posts, I will share about St. Peter’s Catholic Church in Tiberias, on the shores of the Sea of Galilee (which is technically a lake but its waves can be so strong, it resembles a sea – I am told), also called Lake of Tiberias.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
St. Peter standing guard

About the town of Tiberias

Tiberias is an old town built by Herod Antipas in AD 20 to honor (or, suck up to?) the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Though not initially appealing to the Jewish population of the land, eventually the city became a center of Jewish life over the centuries to the point that it is one of the four holy cities of Judaism in the Holy Land.

Tiberias’ population runs about 40,000 people and it is sort of a resort town (with even party boats!). It also sits at 200m below sea level.

History of St. Peter’s Church in Tiberias

The church dates to the 1100s when the Crusaders built it. It did not stay long in Christian hands as the Muslims took it over less than 100 years later and converted it to a mosque. As the centuries passed, Christians would go from Nazareth to visit the site (paying the Muslims, of course). Eventually, as happened over the centuries across the Holy Land, the Western Christian Church (before any split had occurred) started acquiring sites deemed holy.

It is important to share that at the time of the construction of the church there was the Western Christian Church and the Eastern Christian Church (as of the great schism of 1054). The Western Christian Church is the Catholic Church which had a few “spin-offs” during the Reformation and after.

Back to the story… So in the 18th century, the Franciscans (official custodians of holy sites and sanctuaries in the Holy Land from the Western Christian Church) bought the property and later built the complex around it as a monastery.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Part of the monastery, where guest rooms are

St. Peter’s Catholic Church Today

Today, the church is in a Franciscan complex which also hosts a pilgrim’s house called Casa Nova. Casa Nova has 25 rooms (basic but with good A/C!) and has an inner courtyard where the church sits. Besides this one in Tiberias, there are other Casa Novas in the Holy Land. I stayed 5 nights at the one in Bethlehem which is a jewel as it stands right next to the Church of the Nativity.

The church structure is not visible from street level due to the complex walls. From the lakeshore, one can see the back of the church and the identification of the structure as St. Peter Catholic Church.

Interestingly, the church is in the shape of a ship as St. Peter was a fisherman before becoming a follower of Christ. Its website says: “It symbolizes the Church of Christ resisting storms according to the divine promise that “the gates of the netherworld shall not prevail against it” (Mt 16,18).

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Entrance to the church

The interior of St. Peter’s Catholic Church

The interior is simply but powerful in evoking the story of St. Peter: the miracle of the catch of fish, his naming as first among the Apostles, his building of the church of Rome, and his martyrdom.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
The view as one enters: the altar and its mosaics
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Beautiful depiction of St. Peter the fisher of men
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Below St. Peter on the boat and right above the altar
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land, holy water
Holy water bowl

I found it unusual among the holy sites and sanctuaries I visited over the 10 day pilgrimage. It was only really visited by the people staying at Casa Nova (perhaps a few others?) allowing respite from the crowds of pilgrims and tourists. This allowed for the right environment to sit quietly in prayer and thanksgiving.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Fisher of men, leader of the Christian Church, …
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
… “tend my sheep”

Visiting the Namsan Seoul Tower for the Best Views of Seoul

As I have written about before, when I visit a new town, I immediately look for a place from which I could get a great view.  In my recent visit to Seoul, South Korea, I did some research and very quickly realized there was one clear place I had to go to get the best views of Seoul from up high:  the Namsan Seoul Tower.Namsan seoul tower, seoul tower, best views in seoul, travel, telecom tower, blue sky

Most major cities abroad tend to have one of those imposing communications towers that stand out in any city’s skyline.  Seoul’s does it one better:  the communications tower sits atop a mountain right in the heart of the city!

The tower opened back in 1980 and boasts having had 30 millions visitors to date.  Not bad.

How to get to the Namsan Seoul Tower

The good news is that, though it sits on top of a mountain, the Namsan Seoul Tower can be reached by car, bus, cable car, or on foot.  If I had had more time, I would have turned the whole thing into a hike up.  But, having walked part of the mountain a day earlier, on the day of my visit to the tower, I decided to speed things up.  I took the cable car.

The best time for the best views of Seoul from the tower

I wanted to get up before the crowds started arriving and the tower opened at 10 AM.  A second reason for getting there as early as possible is that the sun would rise opposite the side of the tower with the best views.  That is, the stuff I wanted to photograph would face me while the sun would be behind me.  I didn’t want the sun to be up high (say, around noon) and diminish the quality of the colors of the views.

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

While this is a good photo, it is almost facing in the direction of the sun, so not as vivid

The cable car

The cable car, luckily as I did not plan this, was just two blocks from my hotel near the Myeongdong subway station.  To get to the cable car lower station, one either climbs a series of staircases (quite steep), or one takes a short tram.  However, the tram had weekly maintenance that morning so it was not an option.  So up the stairs I went!  Good workout…

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, best views of Seoul

The tram on the right and the cable car station on the left

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, Seoul from up high

A little portion of the stairs!

Myeongdong, Namsan Seoul Tower, Seoul, South Korea, travel, cityscape

Even from the stairs, there is a view

Once you get to the cable car station, just buy the ticket (you get a better deal if you buy the round-trip up front).  The cable car opens at 10 AM and I got there just a couple of minutes past that time.  The line was 10 deep and I was able to move quickly from it to the platform in little time.  The next car was full and I was one of the last ones in but I made it.

Namsan Seoul Tower, cable car station, Seoul, South Korea, travel

The cable car station

Going up the tower

The tower complex boasts “attractions” and other neat spots (the love lock handrails in the main plaza after you exit the cable car station). Its website provides a glimpse of all they offer.

Namsan Seoul Tower, love locks, Seoul, South Korea, colorful

Locks galore; other handrails were completely covered up

Namsan Seoul Tower, love locks, Seoul, South Korea, colorful

Once up at the plaza at the other end of the cable car, I went straight to the ticket office though it is a big enough space to explore and walk around.

Namsan Seoul Tower, ticket office, Seoul, travel, South Korea

Entrance to take the elevator up

There was no line to take the elevator up and it was waiting for me.  The ride was fairly quick in an enclosed (not panoramic) elevator car which was OK since the best views were about to come.  The ticket to go to the viewing platform cost 10,000 Korean Won for an adult (around US $10) so not bad at all for such a unique attraction.

The best views of Seoul from up high – finally!

Once you get up, the viewing platform is quite large, not terribly crowded at that time.  There are shops for souvenirs or candy.  There is a restaurant, a bar and restrooms in the other levels up there.  I was tempted to come at sunset and enjoy those views but my time in Seoul was limited (5 days) and I wanted to see and experience other things.  I imagine it would be really neat to go up, have a drink, and enjoy a spectacular sunset lighting up the city with some good golden colors (perfect for photos!).

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Facing NW or so

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Moving further towards the north

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Towards the Gyeongbukgung Palace in the distance (not really visible here)

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Close up shows at the base of the mountain the Blue House – the home of the President of the ROK

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Continuing eastward, the vast green space is Jongmyo Shrine in the front and another palace in the back

One cool thing is that there was free wi-fi up there so I video-called family members to show them the view live.

As you walk around the view platform, you can look 360 at Seoul all around you.  And you can walk around to find your favorite city around the world on the glass windows so you know you are looking out in its direction.

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, Seoul, great view, views over Seoul, best views of Seoul

Atlanta did not show up on the glass but D.C. is close enough!

A restroom to remember!

Ah… not to say that the best was for last but… it may have been the best surprise…  I decided to run to the restroom before leaving and went to the men’s room in the floor below the viewing platform.  I was in for a surprise indeed.  Can’t speak to the setup of the women’s restroom but get a look at this!

Seoul, South Korea, Namsan Seoul Tower, restroom up high, urinal with a view

I think the urinals would point towards North Korea…

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I would definitely give the Namsan Seoul Tower a thumbs-up in the must-see spots in the South Korean capital!  The best views of Seoul for sure.

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

The shadow of the tower on the Namsan mountain

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Other “best views” spots around the world from past travels:

Pin this to your bucket list board!

telecom tower, city view, Seoul, South Korea, seeing Seoul, how best to explore Seoul

Visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in South Korea

The Korean Demilitarized Zone, or “DMZ“, has likely kept the Korean peninsula and the world at large out of war for over many decades.  From afar, and up-close, visiting the Demilitarized Zone commands respect as a danger zone where, potentially, a mis-step could trigger a lot of non-sense. 

The prickly border between North Korea (the DPRK) and South Korea (the ROK) is around 4 kms deep (about 2.5 miles; 2 km on either side of the technical border between the two countries) and 250 km long (160 miles).  We mainly visualize an area called the Joint Security Area, or “JSA”, but that is only a tiny -though highly important- part of one wants to see when visiting the DMZ with a DMZ tour.

JSA, Panmunjeon, DMZ, Korea
The famous spot in the JSA [photo credit: Henrik Ishihara]

Planning to visit the JSA in the DMZ

When I began planning my visit to South Korea, as I researched blogs like this one, I learned that it was possible to visit the DMZ and even the JSA.  I realized quickly that to get to see the “iconic” JSA, one had to book way in advance and I was perilously close to be too late. 

After a lot of digging around, I found a tour company that had capacity on one of the days I would be in South Korea.  I am sure the days and times of visiting by the public at large is very tightly managed, hence the difficulty in booking a JSA visit.

JSA, visiting the DMZ, Korea
Model of the JSA

In any case, I nabbed a spot on a DMZ tour that included visiting the JSA even if that visit is way too quick (which is what I had read; one barely gets to take a picture on the most iconic photo spot in the JSA).  Keep reading to find out what happened…

The DMZ’ JSA (acronyms R us)

Neither country has jurisdiction over the JSA, though it includes territory from both.  There are meeting rooms that cross the border where representatives of both sides can meet.  We saw earlier in 2018 the leaders of each Korea cross the border into the other country’s border. 

That momentous event took place in the JSA, which is also casually referred to as Panmunjeon, where the armistice was signed in 1953.  If I understood correctly, the United Nations Commission has been responsible for the JSA.

Up until 2018.  Due to the recent developments warming the chill between the two countries (and the U.S.), it has been decided to convert the JSA from a major military and command center to a tourist attraction (??).  In the fall of 2018, guard houses within the JSA were to be removed and the zone will become a free movement zone, meaning that people who are allowed into the JSA, technically can move freely between the two Koreas in the JSA.

And here is where my plans went awry…  The project to remove guard houses and do some other changes to the JSA were not done by the day my tour was supposed to happen so that portion of the tour was cancelled by the authorities that control visits to the area.  BIG bummer…

Visiting the DMZ – the approach with a DMZ tour

Well, for this curious traveler, seeing North Korea from across the border was a priority.  Not that it would be a big a-ha or anything but, I just had to see it!  As one travels the so-called Freedom Highway (route 77) out of Seoul along the Han River, right as one passes Gimpo on the way to Paju, one gets to get the first glimpse of North Korea.  At that point, the demarcation line (or, the border) actually runs through the water.  Not much to see. 

Except, I noted the waters were empty on what seemed at nice day.  Later I learned that those waters are a no-enter zone as a small slip by someone could create an incident.  Made sense.

Korea, DMZ, third tunnel, map of DMZ, Odusan observatory, Dora observatory
Demarcation line in black – notice the high density of roads on the South Korean side vs. the North…

As we headed to Paju, I noted the security fence just next to the highway to prevent anyone entering (or leaving) South Korean land and entering the water.  It was definitely not just a yard chain link fence!  And there were guard houses at very frequent intervals (not sure what the distance between them was).  They looked empty but the tour guide indicated that at 8 AM the guards leave them. 

In essence, they are watching the edge of the water at night only.  The waterway soon fully becomes South Korean territory and we crossed it.

security fence in the DMZ, guardhouse, visiting the DMZ, Im Jim River,
Guardhouse along the Freedom Highway

We were not yet in the DMZ though.  That was next in our DMZ tour.

Entering the DMZ at Imjingak Park

To enter the DMZ, visitors need to switch to buses that are allowed to operate in the DMZ at Imjingak‘s “tourist site.”  We went to an area with an observatory (elevated point from which to view North Korea), a coffee shop, a souvenir store, and a large parking lot area for buses to park to drop off and pick up visitors. 

And a small amusement park/carnival which felt out of place given the serious business that gives rise to needing a DMZ…  Weird.  However, this is a bit of a mis-read of the place.  This park was created to console families that were divided when the border was closed, as a place to get as close as possible to their North Korean families and homeland.

Imjingak, DMZ, South Korea, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
You can see a bit of the carnival area at Imjingak… (?!)
Bridge of Freedom, DMZ, South Korea, Imjingak
Bridge of Freedom

First viewing point:  Dora Observatory

After entering the DMZ, we headed to the Dora Observatory on Dorasan (Mt. Dora).  It was a short uphill walk to get to the observatory from which we could then look through a high platform/plaza towards North Korea.  The free standing “binoculars” were very helpful to get a better view of North Korea.

Dora Observatory, DMZ, Korea, visiting the DMZ, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
The viewing platform

One can see one of the famous propaganda villages built by North Korea to ‘impress’ the southerners – it was a fake village.  It is supposedly the closest a visitor to the DMZ gets to North Korea.  This stop is close to both the third tunnel and the Dorasan ghost train station (keep reading below…).

DMZ, guardhouse, South Korea, visiting the DMZ
Note the guardhouses in the DMZ (in the red circle)

From this observatory, one can see the North Korean town of Kaesong, the largest community visible to me during me DMZ visit.

Kaesong, DPRK, North Korea, visiting the DMZ, curiosity
Kaesong, DPRK in the distance

3rd tunnel under the demarcation line

North Korea secretly built tunnels that would allow it to “pump” 30,000 soldiers per hour into South Korean territory.  Everyone believes it was to support an invasion of South Korea at some point.  The tunnels started getting discovered thanks to a northern defector who informed the south in 1974 that the DPRK was building this tunnel but uncertain of the precise location. 

So the south buried 107 PVC pipes into the ground full of water until one of them pointed the spot under which there was a portion of the tunnel in 1978.  The South Koreans ended up discovering 4 tunnels (are there more??) over the decades.

tunnel, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, North Korea, infiltration tunnel, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
Plaza at the 3rd infiltration tunnel

In my tour, we visited the third tunnel, very close to the Dora Observatory. by using an access tunnel built by the south to get to the North Korean tunnel (which is 2 m wide by 2 m tall).  The access tunnel is a little wider than the North Korean tunnel though often shorter, hence why everyone is given a hard hat to wear upon entering. 

The end point on the North Korean tunnel that a visitor gets to is a wall that blocks any potential use of the tunnel by the North to enter South Korea (there are two further walls behind the one facing the visitor).  To get to the end point, the visitor descends about 300 m.  It is steep and long.

And the way back is all uphill – no elevator down here!  This walk down takes the visitor to 73 m (240 ft) under the surface.  At this end point, the visitor is within 170 m of the demarcation line above ground – the closest the visitor gets to the border between the two Koreas.

Displays outside the tunnel help one learn more about the tunnels but most tours rush one through everything so snapping a quick few pictures of the explanatory displays is key so, at least, one can read about it later.

tunnel, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, North Korea, infiltration tunnel
3rd infiltration tunnel

I’d give the tunnel a thumbs-up in terms of something that really conveys how serious the business around here was, even if now it is getting crowded by tour buses.

Train station to nowhere (yet)

The Dorasan train station, right outside of the DMZ on the South Korean side, is a highly clean and modern station recently built to eventually reconnect by train the south to the north (as it used to be a long time ago).

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
Dorasan train station

At some point around 2007-8, using the existing rail line that goes now by this stations, a train ran to take raw materials from the south to a factory set up in the North Korean town of Kaesong as a form of collaboration between the two Koreas.  That ended as relations went south (pardon the pun). 

To run the factory, though, South Korea also had to transmit electricity over power lines built for the purpose.  One actually can tell where the demarcation line (otherwise invisible/unmarked) runs by noticing when the power towers change colors:  the painted towers are in South Korea, the unpainted ones in North Korea.

In any case, the Dorasan train station was built as a sign of the hope that the two Koreas will re-unify.  The hope would be to run the first train service from Seoul to Pyongyang, whenever the political situation allows.

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail, ilivetotravel
Nope, not going there!

While it seems to be mostly a curiosity to visitors and a “why bother visit”, it seems to go beyond that to South Koreans and, for that, it is worth seeing it to understand it.  The South Korean tour guide spoke wishfully of the day when a South Korean could travel from Seoul to Paris by train, a la Trans-Siberian train (or, connecting to it). 

They seem to dream of being connected by land to the rest of the world.  That, sadly, requires going through North Korea yet the southerners are not shy about their hopes as this map at the Dorasan train station shows!

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail
Map shows linking to the Trans-Siberian rail through Russia

Final observatory – the Odusan Observatory

Our final stop was offered a good view of North Korea, at this point, across the Im Jin River, leading to the West Sea and connecting also to the Han River (which cuts Seoul in half further south).  It was a large, multi-story, and modern facility that felt empty except for us tourists meandering about.  They must host events or something.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Odusan Observatory main entrance

In any case, the viewing platform is large and has free, standing binocular stations, as did the Dora Observatory.  Using a camera on the binoculars allowed capturing some of the details of the North Korean villages, including spotting the mandatory King Il-Sum Memorial every North Korean village must have.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Close-up of the North Korean side
Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Spot the tall white column: that’s the memorial to the dictator who ruled the DPRK until the 1990s

A map shows what one is looking at on the North Korean side.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Map

The view from this observatory is more beautiful due to the water.  Also, because it also offers an interesting view when one looks the opposite way, towards Seoul.  High thumbs up for this site!

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Looking towards North Korea across the Im Jin River as it heads out to sea
Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
View south from the DMZ (what you see here is not Seoul)

And so ends my visit to the demilitarized zone.  Visiting the DMZ is doable on one’s own but I assume with planning to understand the ins and outs of getting there, how to move around in the area outside of the DMZ, and booking spaces in the DMZ-managed buses.  I certainly preferred booking a DMZ tour because it just made things easier. 

In any case, it was incredible to see this symbol of the power plays between the big powers since the days following the end of World War II.  And a sensitive spot on Earth that could have (and still could, I suppose) trigger a nasty war.  I hope not as much for re-unification but for freedom for the North Koreans…


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last of the Cold War , visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone

Getting from Incheon Airport into Seoul

Getting to Seoul from Incheon International Airport is quite easy.  The airport is extremely modern, clean and well-signed.  Very important for me as a new visitor into the city as I knew, based on my prior research, that I would find my way to my desired transportation method without an issue.  Besides traditional services like private cars, buses or taxis, train service into the city is available.  Going from Incheon to Seoul should not be anything you worry about when planning your visit to the capital of South Korea!

Incheon, Seoul airport, modern architecture, Korea airport

Very modern architecture

How to decide which way to go from Incheon to Seoul Station?

Incheon Airport is an hour away or so (by train) from Seoul’s city center (Seoul Station) so a taxi ride may be more than folks may want to pay for if they are traveling without lots of luggage. (There is a luggage service if you are flying with certain airlines to help with that if you take the train; read more about it here).  Besides the extra cost of vehicle service, you would suffer, er, experience big city traffic, which would also be a concern with bus service.  So, for me, nothing beat the train service with its generally uninterrupted movement towards the destination!

Is train service available from Incheon to Seoul?

Yes, indeed!  Now, there are two train types available:  the AREX express train or the AREX commuter line “all-stop” train.  Let’s look at both options:
  • Option 1:  The AREX all-stop train is cheaper (about half of the cost of the AREX express train).  But it does not have dedicated storage space for luggage so you would have to be managing your luggage as people enter and exit the train car at the stops.  This train option takes longer due to the stops the train will make between the airport and the Seoul Station (10-20 mins longer depending on which terminal you are landing/departing from at Incheon).  However, if your destination is close to one of those stops, then the all-stop may make good sense.
  • Option 2:  If you are heading into the city proper (as I was), you may want to use the AREX express train which connects the airport to Seoul Station in the heart of the city without any stops outside of the two airport terminals.  When you buy a ticket (9,500 Korean Won as of this writing, about $9.50US;), it automatically assigns you to a train car and a seat.  I am not sure if I could have picked my seat but was not paying attention both times I bought a ticket.  The train has wi-fi for free and the seats recline, and even have footrests (the all-stop train is just a regular subway-like train).

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Express train seats

How to use the AREX express train service

Once you clear immigration and customs, you will be on the lookout for “Airport Railroad” signage.  This will take you to the area with both ticket vending machines or a staffed kiosk.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at airport makes the direction stand out

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk

AREX ticket kiosk

At the airport, there was plenty of help and it was all very easy to navigate.  On the reverse, Seoul Station is quite big and the path to the AREX tracks varies depending on whether you take a subway line in or you walk into Seoul Station.   More on this part later.

Once you get to the train area, they have done a good job of signing which way to the express train and which way to the all-stop train.  The former is all signed in orange, and the latter all signed in blue.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

The orange turnstiles are for the AREX express train

Using the AREX express train vending machines

After you have gone to the AREX express train area, you will see the orange vending machines or the staffed kiosk.  The machines were super intuitive to use and took credit card or cash.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

AREX express train vending machine

When you first approach it and see its touchscreen, you will see it all in Korean except, in a row of buttons, one that says “English.”  That was the only European language available as far as I could tell.  Once you press it, follow the menus.  On the way into the city, there is no option.  You are headed to Seoul Station.  On the way into the airport, you will need to know from which of the two terminals your flight is departing from:  Terminal 1 or 2.  You will specify that, how many tickets and the time of the train you want to take.

You then proceed to pay and the machine will issue two items:  one is your train time and seat assignment; the other is the single journey card you will use to get through the automatic gates in and out the train track area (so only ticketed passengers get to access the platform).

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk

Seat ticket and single journey card coming out of the machine

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk, AREX ticket

The yellow (or orange) single journey ticket and the seat assignment receipt

There is no security or anything else.  It will just take however long the elevator wait and ride down take.  There are clear signs indicating where each train car will be so you can pre-position yourself by your car if the train is not already there.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Clear signage on where to find the right train car at Terminal 2

Once you get into the train car, put away your luggage on the racks (there is overhead space above the seats for carry-on sized items) and lay back for the next 45 mins or so – you are headed to Seoul! (Or the airport!)

Getting stuck in Seoul Station on the way to the airport

As I alluded to earlier, I had a glitch on the way to the airport before I even got to the AREX express train.  I got “stuck” heading into AREX train area from the subway’s Line 4 at Seoul Station.  But I will say Seoul Station was well-signed to get me from the regular subway to the AREX departure area!

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signs at Seoul Station directing passengers to the AREX train

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at Seoul Station even included floor signs (this one for the all-stop train)!

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at Seoul Station guides you to the right floor for buying tickets

In any case, my single journey card for the subway was not intended to allow me to enter the AREX train area just to exit the subway proper.  I was not aware of that so I only had that one card.  Why is this necessary is beyond me – it adds confusion to visitors.

I could not access the area where you buy the AREX tickets NOR to buy a new single journey card to let me through.  I was at a loss of what to do.  I spotted a man walking with an AREX ID card and asked for help – he used his ID card to let me in and I proceeded to buy the ticket.  He got a nice “kumapsunida” from me and a smile.

Incheon, Seoul airport, modern architecture, Korean AIr

Safe travels!


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How Best to Explore Intramuros in Manila

Intramuros is the old district of Manila, the capital of the Philippines.  It carries a lot of history and meaning within its walls as I shared with you in a prior post. Though it is quite distinctive and historic, it is not your typical tourist haven.   That is actually what makes it a key point of interest in Manila:  it is a national treasure for the country itself, not just for tourists.  As a national treasure its reconstruction and growth are managed by the Intramuros Administration (IA).  Maintaining the integrity of the district is very important to the IA and that is a good thing for current and future generations of locals – and the world at-large.

Some of the highlights of Intramuros

The first thing that will catch your attention is the city walls and all the forts, gates, bulwarks, ravelins and redoubts (clearly, I picked up some words related to military fortifications!).  A good starting point in this network is Fort Santiago.  The fort was built by the Spanish starting in the late XVI century and formed part of the city walls that once surrounded Manila, much as the Spanish did in a few of its colonial capitals (like Old San Juan in Puerto Rico).  Protecting the city was important as it was a key connecting point in trade routes for Spain, trade routes that even spanned the Pacific Ocean going all the way to Mexico, one of the richest pieces of the Spanish Empire.  All this rich history makes Intramuros an area to explore around Manila and its environs.

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The entrance to Fort Santiago from the land side, repaired after WWII

Through the centuries it has changed due to earthquakes, attacks, or modifications.  For example, there use to be a building right around the main gate shown in the pictures – the building was destroyed in a great earthquake that rocked Manila in 1880.  During WWII the fort suffered great damage.  Today, it is set up well for visitors.  You first enter a plaza or park and then cross the moat (which is an arm of the Pasig River) to enter the main part of the fort.

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The moat in front of the entrance to Fort Santiago

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You can walk along the walls and look across the river.

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Walk along the walls of the fort!

And you can see the place where the Philippines’ national hero, José Rizal, was imprisoned right before his execution in 1896.  A poignant detail you will notice is that his footsteps from his prison to the place of his execution are marked on the ground.

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Lifelike statue of Rizal in his former cell

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Rizal’s walk to his execution

After you are done in Fort Santiago, a short walk takes you to the Manila Cathedral, which has been destroyed and reconstructed more than a handful of times since it was first built in the late 16th century.

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The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception built in 1958

The Cathedral shares the Plaza de Roma (used to be called the Plaza de Armas, a key spot in any Spanish colonial town) with the former Governor’s Palace (also destroyed in the past) which now houses government offices, including the Intramuros Administration, which I got to visit.

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The Governor’s Palace

San Agustín Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines (it opened in 1607), is one of the few buildings still standing in Intramuros that pre-date WWII.  Though it suffered a little damage, it is mostly still the same structure.  Along with three other churches in the Philippines, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Legazpi, the founder of the city of Manila is buried here.  And if you get to visit, check out the ceiling – it plays a trick on the eye:  though it looks elaborately decorated, all that you see is painted on a smooth surface!

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Interior of the church – everything on the arches and ceiling is painted on!

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Detail in the interior of the church

Though I call out Fort Santiago, the city walls with all its different components are good places to explore and get up on to check out the views.  Worth noting that right outside the city walls, the former moat was reclaimed during the American period and a full 18-hole golf course established!

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City wall fortifications with the golf course in the background

How to see Intramuros

Depending on the reason for your visit to Manila and how much time you have,  how you do Intramuros may vary.  But whether you only have half-a-day or two days to spare, you should find a guide to show you around for 2-4 hours.  There is a lot behind what you see in Intramuros and you will miss more than half of the story if you only walk around without a guide.  I had a neat tour guide who, though a little too freely-sharing and opinionated, nevertheless presented Manila’s story in a very compelling way.

You can walk the district (it is not too big) or use a calesa to get around a little more comfortably, especially on a hot day.  The good part about walking is that you can meander around with more freedom and take better pictures!

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Calesas on the run

Finally I would recommend not only visiting Intramuros but staying there one or two nights to soak in the district.  While it is not the most lively area in the evening, there is a perfect spot to explore the old town, watch the sun set, and enjoy the evening breeze:  The Bayleaf Hotel.

Staying in Intramuros

Understanding how to explore Intramuros is one thing but it is also important to know where to stay!  I found it preferable to stay right in Intramuros to enjoy the view at night and not have to deal with traffic.  I stayed at the Bayleaf Hotel which has great views (plus it was the tallest building in Intramuros) and was the only hotel within the city walls.  The hotel sits right by the city walls and Victoria St., a very colorful street worth walking so the location was great.

It is one of the best spots to watch the sun set in Manila (even locals suggested we go there without knowing I was staying there!).   Unfortunately, I did not get to watch the sunset from the hotel as it rained really hard that day (it is the tropics!).  I did go up the next morning to the Sky Deck terrace to soak the awesome 360 degree view.  You can see the golf course built in the site of the moat outside of the city walls.  You can see the tall Manila Town Hall right outside the walls, then the National Museum.  And then you can turn around to see all of Intramuros right below you.  Even if you don’t stay at this particular hotel, find a way to go to the terrace!

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Looking from the Bayleaf’s Sky Deck towards the Manila Town Hall (notice the golf course)

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View over Intramuros (the Cathedral to the left) towards Manila Bay

I only wish I had been there on a clear day where I could witness an amazing sunset over Manila, perhaps with a tropical beverage and camera in hand, taking it all in…  I guess there is always a return to Manila.  If MacArthur did it, why not me??


Add Intramuros to your Pin board!

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Read more details about the history of Fort Santiago here.

I was a guest of the Bayleaf Hotel for the night I was to watch the sun set over Manila.  This trip happened five years ago but I preserve some text on the hotel because I truly do believe its location is ideal for a base to explore Intramuros.

Pashupatinath | A Unique Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visiting a new place can make us feel out of sorts.  That could be due to a number of reasons.  Maybe just the climate being different.  Or, the people behave in ways different than ours.  Or, the food being different.  That can be especially true when visiting a place with a different religion than the one(s) we know.  That was true when I visited Kathmandu, Nepal.  The city itself did not feel strange.  Actually, it felt very comfortable there.  But I visited a temple in Kathmandu that I was ill-prepared for.

Frankly, I felt very ambivalent about my presence there once I got there.  And it was not the conceptual part of the site that threw me for a loop.   It was more the sensory perceptions once at the place… but, before all that…

Intro to Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu

Before flying to Lukla to hike the Everest Base Camp trail, our agenda had us visiting the Pashupatinath Temple, on the banks of the Bagmati River in the east side of Kathmandu.  It was a group activity for us trekkers so I went along.  As usual, I was eager to see more of the city and explore more of the cultural and religious aspects of Nepal.  Before getting there, we understood it was a Hindi religious site where, among other things, ritual cremations took place.  First, a little more about this centuries-old Hindu temple.

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A bit up from cremation area is a bridge to cross into the main complex

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Many structures built upon the other over time

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Along the river bank after the bridge

Lord Pashupatinath is the national deity of Nepal.  Therefore, this temple is one of the most important ones in the Hindu faith.  When I speak about the temple, I actually refer to the overall complex of temples (big and small) and other religious sites around the main temple, which only people of the Hindu faith can actually enter. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This designates Pashupatinath as a place of unique importance and meaning to the world at large.  It holds many religious festivals throughout the year – it must be quite a sight!  Pashupatinath, temple, Kathmandu, Nepal, templo, Hinduismo, cremation, turismo en Nepal, travel, photo, architecture

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Lattice work

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Close-up of the woodwork

 

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While non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, we got close to it and got to peek through the gate.  Pashupatinath, temple, Kathmandu, Nepal, templo, Hinduismo, cremation, Asia, explore, travel, photo, architecture

The main temple is built in a pagoda style and has a gilded roof.  The area around the entrance was decorated with beautiful artwork that I am sure has a lot more meaning than I understand (it shows deities but I can’t really explain… if you, reader, know, leave a comment to educate us!).  I was left wondering if it felt more solemn once inside…

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Entrance to the main temple

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Close-up of the area above the entrance (Shiva)

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Close-up of the side of the entrance (Ganesha)

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Detail on the outside walls of the main temple

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Peeking in through the main temple gate (golden rear end of Nandi, Shiva’s bull)

The structures around the complex were not homogeneous.  The materials and colors seemed diverse.  Perhaps because of being built up over many centuries?  The buildings and the architectural details caught my eye (and my lens).  For sure, it was a lot to take in – it was a feast for the eyes.  I didn’t know where to focus since it was all new to me.

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Cool building – like all the wood work

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Love this type of detail

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Friends conversing

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But the thoughts about my first visuals upon entering the complex lingered with me throughout the visit despite the great things I was looking at.

Entering the temple

When we arrived we had entered through a gate that brought us directly face-to-face with the cremation area by the river.

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Our first sighting of the temple was the ‘ghats’ where the bodies are cremated

There were monkeys all over the place.  Not sure if they like being by the water, if they are all over, or what.

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One of the many…

Cremations at Pashupatinath

In any case, the area where the cremations take place can hold several cremations at the same time on either side of the river.  The body of the departed is placed on a “platform” (or ‘ghat’).  This platform juts out into the river a little.  On this platform the funerary pyre is set.  The side of the river close to the entrance we took is simpler whereas the opposite river bank offers more shade for the relatives and friends of the recently departed.  Behind that area there are several structures at a higher level.  We were told that if the families have come from a long way, they may stay there.

Once the ritual cremation is done, the embers are allowed to die down.  Then, the ashes (and anything else that remains) are thrown into the river.  The hope is that those remains reach the Ganges River, one of the most sacred rivers of the Hindu faith.  Relatives of the departed step into the river as part of the cremation ritual.  Hence, the steps that form the river banks at the temple.

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Finishing cleaning up the area

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Preparing for a cremation

Visiting this temple in Kathmandu gave more than I was ready for

I knew that this was a religious practice as I had witnessed, via TV, the funerals of people like Indira Gandhi and others of the Hindu faith who were cremated in similar fashion (open-air as part of a religious ritual).  So as I entered the complex, I felt “aware.”  Going to a temple in Kathmandu surely would not provide a surreal experience, right?

And then the smells generated by the cremations hit me.  To say I was unprepared for that is a massive understatement.  I had not stopped to think ahead of time about how it would feel to be physically present (not just in front of a TV or computer screen) at an open-air cremation.

We were quite far from the river’s edge when the smell reached us.  What made it uncomfortable was that it reminded me of the smell at a cookout back home but I knew this was an important religious ritual we were seeing from a distance.  It was disconcerting, feeling guilty about making that comparison mentally, about thinking that I was in person seeing something that I would never expect to see back home as an eyewitness.  As I stood there, I hesitated on taking any picture of the scene but decided to do it as it would be from a good bit of a distance away and I felt I was doing so with a respectful intent.

Experiencing the world through travel is not always easy

Looking at those photos today, all the feelings come rushing back:  my awkwardness with the moment, the sensory memories…  But, traveling is about expanding one’s understanding of the world, about learning of others’ perspectives and beliefs, and about being OK with not always being comfortable with what one comes across.  I struggle with saying I am glad I had that experience – I am not sure I can say I am “glad.”  And I will have to be OK with that.  But I am glad to have learned more about the meaning of what I witnessed to the faithful for whom this is supremely important…

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Not sure what this prayer man is called but photo highlights what this place is about

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Read more about the temple here.

Pin the image below to your board if you are planning to visit Nepal

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How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience.  Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train.  Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience.  In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp.  While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine.  In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live:  they are parks.  But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand.  Either way, the result is the same.  One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience.  It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return.  That was OK with me.  In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around.  (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”.  See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed.  I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route.  I also discovered the more  impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!).  The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft).  EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft).  So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night).  Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous.  (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar).  Sleeping quarters are not heated.  And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center.  So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along.  There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff.  So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics.  But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten.  Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

  • Upper Body and Legs:  The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost.  Layers are key to both.  Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan.  Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood.  The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice.  It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
  • Feet:  The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable.  Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet.  Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places.  You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots.  The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space.  Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
  • Hands:  Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must.  You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
  • Head:  A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know.  You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).


Gear and other practical items

  • Sleeping bag:  While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen.  So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring.  I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated.  Very much needed!
  • Night light:  When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc.  Don’t forget batteries!
  • Pillow:  A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow.  I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

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Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

  • Trekking poles:  Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support.  Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!

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    Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar

  • Water:  Treating water is very important.  A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal.  Batteries are the big thing here.  Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it.   Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through.  Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen.  I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack.  It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.


  • Wipies/Tissues:  These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty.  Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around.  Or other general cleaning purposes!  [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
  • Towel:  A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels.  Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold.  Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…


  • Medications and first aid:  The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances.  But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc.  Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs.  Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within.  Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request.  The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
  • Personal items:  The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc.  Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).
  • And, of course, duct tape!  Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs!  I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest!  Pin it to your board!

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If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below.  I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!).  Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!  

 

I Used to Not Know How to Spell Phnom Penh

Early last fall, when I was planning my itinerary for the SE Asia trip, there was an extra day to spare.  With 5 days already in Bali and Singapore (and the phenomenal 57th story infinity pool) awaiting, the options became extending Siem Reap by one day, jumping from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, or stopping in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital.  As you may be aware due to my post about the Killing Fields, the choice was “PP” simply to avoid crossing another border (much as I wanted to “hit” Vietnam for the first time!).

It was a good choice.  The sites related to the Pol Pot genocide of the 1970s were important to see.  But it was also interesting to see this capital which seems to be booming (I suppose “booming” can be a relative term…) out its past as capital of a Communist regime.  I wish I had gotten to see the “before” Phnom Penh so I could better grasp how far it has come.

Needless to say, the modern building boom is probably good for the economy but some of it is just more of the same glass buildings one sees everywhere.  I seemed to have stayed in a good area (right by the Independence Monument) as main streets and side streets around the hotel felt much better than in other developing countries.  The park by the Independence Monument and the park towards the Royal Palace were very pleasant spaces near the Mekong River.  Lots of families walking the area and hanging out!

Though only 24 hours intown, I feel I did a good bit for such a limited visit – including a massage at the hotel I stayed (La Rose Hotel & Spa).  Phnom Penh was pleasant and relaxed, and it was a good stop as the trip began to wrap up.  And now I can spell Phnom Penh!

Here some of the scenes from Phnom Penh.

Around Cambodia’s Royal Palace

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Botumvatey Pagoda

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Dragon keeping an eye out on things…

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Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument

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Around the Royal Palace

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Caught cross-walking!

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The Royal Palace entrance facing the Mekong

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I mean, check that Palace OUT!

Independence Monument Park

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The Independence Monument

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The Independence Monument at night

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Gotta have a photo…

By the Mekong

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Looking down the Mekong from the Royal Palace Park

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Fishermen on the Mekong River

And real life happening in the smaller streets of Phnom Penh…

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Street scene

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Curiously looking at the tourists walking by

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Beautiful colonial style architecture

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When it is too hot inside, bring the sowing machine outside!

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This kid’s parents smiled when I asked if I could take their son’s pic – my favorite!


Pin to your travel board!!

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One Spectacular Pool and Great Views in Singapore

As someone who likes to read about travel and far-away places, I come across many places around this planet which I hope to see someday. Sometimes I think I will never get to see places that catch my eye because my imagination fails me:  I fail to picture the how and why of me getting to those places.  One place caught my eyes for its iconic architecture, the great rooftop views of Singapore it offers during the day and at night, and because of an amazing infinity pool at its “surfboard” rooftop:  the Marina Bay Sands.  You may have seen this hotel in a magazine or a travel show on TV.  You know, the one with three tall towers holding up what looks like a surfboard.

Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoWhile Singapore seems an interesting place, it is certainly too far from my home to go on a whim just because this hotel caught my eye.  But, as things sometimes unfold, what seems a random window of opportunity opened up for me to go to Singapore.  If you have been following my recent writings, going with a friend to a wedding in Bali took me to -what to me is- a far corner of the world.  The happy couple actually lives in Singapore so the chance to see the Marina Bay Sands Hotel came up.Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoBut just seeing it was not enough – I had to stay there:  I wanted to enjoy the 57th floor infinity pool!  You see, to access the pool you have to be a hotel guest – guest of guests cannot enter the pool area.  And so I booked my stay.  Sadly, my visit to Singapore was only over two nights and one day (Bangkok and Angkor Wat were also on the itinerary) so I only got to relax poolside one long afternoon.  But it was WAY cool and well worth it.  The place must have the best nighttime views of Singapore, as well as its daytime views!

We arrived at the hotel at night and we learned the pool was already closed but that certainly was not going to keep me from going up there to see the view!  The gentleman had just closed the pool area but was kind enough to let us walk in.  Check out the amazing night view!Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo

The next day, when we got to the pool in the early afternoon, the skies were incredibly dark.  I expected the storm to come our way and the pool summarily closed.  So with no time to waste, I urged my friend Phil to jump in quickly so I could snap his photo and then we would swap places and at least we each would have “the” picture of the city behind the edge of the infinity pool.

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Dark skies! (Me on the right… )

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My quick jump in the pool

Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoGod smiled upon us.  Not only did lightning NOT strike while we were in the pool for the prize-winning photos, but the storms stayed away and we got to enjoy a whole afternoon poolside, even if under a cloud cover.  Lunch and drinks were part of the picture as was people watching – and some pretend-jumps off the pool into infinity.

There are a few different seating areas poolside as you may notice in the photos posted here.  I enjoyed the pool chairs right at the edge of the pool but you can be further removed from the water action (yea, we got splashed a couple of times by kids playing in the pool but no big deal).  These chairs allow you easy in and out or even accessing your stuff without leaving the pool.  If you want quiet, there are chairs further removed from the pool.

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Great seating all around

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Chill time!

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Marina Bay Sands, hotel, luxury, Singapore, Asia, travel, tourism, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo

Great place to teach a kid to swim!

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One of the many “great” jump-off photos (because no one else thought to take one before)

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He was never seen again after this jump-off…

I have to say that those few hours may have been short and the day may not have been picture perfect but I would not trade a minute of enjoying that pool and those views!

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Spectacular view of the city

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Look at all those ships!

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View of old Singapore

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View towards the financial district

What to know about the hotel

  • The hotel is conveniently located across casinos and a luxurious shopping mall, if you are interested in those things.  We mainly used that as a walking route to get to the heart of the city when we did not feel like taking a taxi.
  • A neat pedestrian bridge can be accessed from the shopping center to get to town.  It is a little bit of a walk but it offers great views back towards the hotel.
  • Only hotel guests can enter the pool area; they control access which makes sense as space is limited.
  • There is a kids’ pool and they will enjoy playing in the water as you enjoy being up there.
  • There are restaurants and bars up at the top of the hotel and those are accessible to non-guests.  It is enjoyable up there.  It is a great place to go check out views of Singapore at night!
  • You can choose city-viewing rooms or sea-viewing rooms (where you can see all the ships going through the straits or going to port).  My preferred view was the city but I got to see the other side from the top of the building as you may have noticed in some of the windows posted.

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One happy puppy!

I paid for every penny of my stay (no discount or freebie or anything else from the hotel) – I just wanted to share this amazing place!

Save this unique hotel to your travel board!

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The Killing Fields of Cambodia

Travel is supposed to be an experience to be enjoyed:  leaving our day-to-day behind, seeing new places, trying new foods, exploring, relaxing, etc.  However, travel sometimes is an opportunity that we get to understand other places, other peoples, and perhaps the past.  There are places like Auschwitz that one can visit to gain some of this understanding but it does come with a price:  what one sees defies comprehension when one is confronted with the places where brutality happened.

When Cambodia made it into the itinerary for my trip to Southeast Asia last fall, I realized one of the things to learn more about was the terrible regime of Pol Pot, a brutal Communist dictator who ruled the country for a few years in the 1970s.  I knew just a little of the history and I knew there was a movie from 1980s about it (The Killing Fields; I had no seen it).   Visiting Cambodia was of interest mainly because of Angkor Wat but when we realized we had a day to spare, we added Phnom Penh.  This stop would provide the opportunity to learn about Pol Pot’s crimes by visiting a couple of key places:  the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (one of the hundreds of killing fields around the country) and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (a former prison and torture center).  (It is no fun to write a post like this but it is important to share what I saw and learned for those who may not get to see these places in person…)

The trip up to that point had been rest and relaxation coupled with exploring amazing sites (like all the temple complexes in Siem Reap).  We planned our visit to these terrible sites for the afternoon of our arrival in Phnom Penh.  Those visits would affect the tone of our trip but it was important to us to see these places firsthand.

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

Our first visit was to the Genocidal Center which served as one of the many killing fields spread throughout the country.  The story of Pol Pot and the madness that ensued after he took power is best and more fully told in other sites or books; I will not even attempt to explain it here.  People were trucked into places like this to be exterminated either because they were supporters of the prior regime, because they were educated (vs. peasants), or because the regime and its minions just felt like eliminating them.

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Entrance to Choeung Ek

Choeung Ek, Genocidal Center, killing field, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, extermination, travel, Samsung Galaxy S7

Excavated ditches dot the grounds 

The center has done a good job of signage explaining the different aspects of how the center was run.  The center also has audioguides available for those who do not have a guide to take them around.  I recommend one or the other to properly grasp the place (we used the audioguides which allowed for self-pacing).

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Typical stand explaining the site

Choeung Ek, Genocidal Center, killing field, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, extermination, travel, Samsung Galaxy S7

Close-up of one of the signs explaining the center’s operation

It is a difficult place to be at.  There are reminders everywhere what happened there especially signs that warn of the bones and pieces of clothes that can still surface, especially after it rains…  The signs provide a stark reminder of what happened there.

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Pieces of clothing that surface have been placed in this box

Choeung Ek, Genocidal Center, killing field, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, extermination, travel, Samsung Galaxy S7

Mass grave

Bones retrieved from mass graves or that surface are placed in a tower built for the purpose of providing the remains of the many victims a respectful place to reside for decades to come – a poignant and very visible reminder of the many lives cut short by a madman and his zealots…

Choeung Ek, Genocidal Center, killing field, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, extermination, travel, Samsung Galaxy S7

The tower housing bones found

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

After visiting Choeung Ek, we headed to the Genocide Museum, the former prison used to torture those persecuted by Pol Pot’s regime.  It had been a school in former days and it got converted into hell-on-earth for those unfortunate souls who were taken there…Tuol Sleng, genocide, prison, torture, Cambodia, Khmer Rouge, Phnm Penh, Pol Pot, Samsung Galaxy S7

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Former school building (one of several)

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Hallway

Prisoners were tortured in former classrooms and any opening to the outside from those rooms was covered to keep the noise in the room and not heard outside since the former school was in the middle of an urban area.  The museum displays the many devices used to torture the victims.

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Outdoor torture spot

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Typical torture room

Photos of many victims are displayed.  It was painful to look at them but I made myself scan the boards full of the photos – it was the least I could do to honor the victims who suffered so greatly there.  The approach of the dictatorship was to execute entire families to avoid any “roots” of those families being left behind.  So, there were pictures of children among all the adult pictures…

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Some of the many photos on display to remember the victims

The site is somber, as can be imagined and the grey skies that day added to that feeling.

May the souls of the victims of this brutal Communist dictatorship (aren’t they all brutal?…) rest in peace.

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Memorial

Ta Prohm, Cambodia: Trees Take over a Temple

Before my trip to Cambodia, I knew about Angkor Wat (of course!).  But, I did not know about Ta Prohm.  I had seen pictures of it but did not know that it was a specific temple close to Angkor Wat and, much less, its name or extent of the wonders it contains.  When you look for what else is there to see near Angkor Wat, or what to see when you visit Cambodia, Ta Prohm needs to be on your list!

I heard about Ta Prohm more concretely from someone who had been to Siem Reap before right before I got there so it got on the itinerary of the temples to visit while in Siem Reap pretty quickly.  It is hard to say that it is my favorite over Angkor Wat or Bayon.  In fact, it is hard to pick any of those over the others; each has something that feels unique enough to lift it in my “estimation.”

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Amazing place

Ta Prohm’s claim to fame, if you will, is how trees have taken over the ruins of this former temple complex built in the 12th/13th century.  We are able to see this today because the temple has been left in the same condition it was found in (for the most part: some work has been done to stabilize the structures to make them safe for visiting and to enable access).  The uniqueness of Ta Prohm earned it a spot in UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites and rightly so!

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Entrance

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Chatting with our guide

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The most famous trees growing through the structures are Tetrameles nudiflora, which is a veritable mouthful for a non-botanical person like me (so I had to look it up to make sure I got it right for this post!).  These trees create surreal imagery – and surely, if the trees were cut, many of the structures would collapse. These trees grow super tall and the roots look like the buttresses of pre-Renaissance European cathedrals and can be quite gigantic as one of my pictures shows.  Banyan trees can also be found around.  These trees grow their roots downward from where the seed landed (not directly on the ground but, say, on a tree or building) and, as the seeds sprout, they grow and end up enveloping the “host” tree or structure, eventually seemingly strangling the host or destroying its host.Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7 Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7 Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7 Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7 Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7, banyan Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, Cambodia, Cambodge, travel, explore, adventure, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7, banyan

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Yea, these trees are HUGE!

What to Know

  • Yes, there is more to Siem Reap than Angkor Wat.  So the visit to Angkor Wat should also include places like Ta Prohm that are close to it and well worth seeing.  Keep reading, ask around, and create a great list!
  • It will get more hot and humid as the day progresses so starting with sunrise is ideal to maximize exploring time with the least ‘suffering’ possible (though it is worth suffering to see these amazing places).  Now, if diminishing suffering is a goal, know that it makes for a short night of sleep!
  • Visiting Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Phrom, and a couple of other smaller sites, starting at sunrise, took us until noon or 1 PM at our speed of walking, stopping to take photos, exploring, etc.  That is quite a long day considering that the hotel pick-up (for us anyway) was at 4:45 AM.  Pace yourself, be aware of how your body is handling the heat and humidity!
  • Bring water, snack and sunblock.
  • Take time to put the camera away and just stand there marveling at the architecture, looking down at the all-enveloping jungle that hid these places for centuries, and soak it all in!

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How I Explored Angkor Wat, Cambodia

It is pretty daunting to write a post about Angkor Wat.  Not only how to do the place justice but there are probably a million write-ups out there about this gem in Cambodia.  All I can do is share (words and photos) how I saw it and perhaps it will help those who have not been there visualize it, and those who have been there remember their visit…

We were told by a few people to not miss sunrise at Angkor Wat.  Considering all the travels away from home at that point (ATL to Chicago, Chicago to Bali (via ATL!), and then Bali to Bangkok to Siem Reap), waking up at an absurd time in the morning did not seem as absurd as it would at any other point in my life.  So, arrangements were made for a 4:45 AM pick-up at the hotel to go to see our local star rise behind Angkor Wat…

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Yea, looking a little rough after the 4AM wake-up (thanks, Phil, for capturing this winner!) – but happy to be there!

First stop:  Get the darn ticket.  One can get a day pass or a multi-day pass.  I was sorta scratching my head as to why the people taking us had not gotten the tickets ahead of time.  I found out why soon enough:  they take your photo and print it on your permit to enter the temple ‘zone.’  Since we were packing it all in into one day, the pass cost us $20US.  Not bad really, especially considering the scale of the area ‘littered’ with temple complexes.  All that has got to be kept up, etc.

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My pass to enter Angkor Wat; skillfully photo bombed by my friend Phil

After getting our ticket, our  guide took us to the main vantage point from which one can ooh-and-aah one’s way through sunrise.  There were clouds in the distance so we did not see a beautiful orange-yellow disk rise from the horizon.  But seeing the temple with the sky around it changing colors from dark blues, to mid-blues, to purples, to orange-ish, etc. was pretty neat.

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Sunrise

I decided to take a fast-pace video over a 15-minute stretch to see what that would look like.  No, it did not result in a magical show but it still was worth the effort to hold the smartphone as still as possible in my hands for that long.  Since I was half asleep anyway, I barely noticed the 15 minutes had elapsed.  (The 15 minutes are compressed into a one minute video below. Let me know if you think it was worth my 15 minutes!)

After snapping a couple of pix of each other, my friend and I moved on from that spot to get to the causeway that would lead us to the main temple we all know as Angkor Wat.  It still was not full light so the pictures were either brilliant or so-so, depending on how demanding a viewer of photos you may be – I will let you reach your own conclusions 🙂  We were also advised to not go back to the hotel after sunrise, as many do to nap and have breakfast, but -instead- to have the hotel pack us a breakfast and just eat it on-site so we could then explore the complex before it got crowded later in the  morning (it was also a good idea since it only gets hotter as the day goes by so the earlier the visit, the less suffering!).

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About to enter the causeway

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STILL looking rough but with a great backdrop! (thanks again, Phil!)

On the way to the main temple, I especially liked ‘the library’ ruins on the left-hand side of the causeway – mainly because it gave me a good way to frame the main temple!  (Always looking -not always successfully- for a good photo spot!)

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Here the library…

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… and what I did with the library! I kinda like this shot!

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Getting closer to the main temple – this is a great photo spot

We entered the main temple area from a side entrance by climbing some stairs and our guide explained some of the carvings as we headed to the inner courtyard.  From there we walked along the side of the central ‘structure’ (I struggle with what to call the different parts of the complex), and observed a couple of places where the stuff under the exterior stone was exposed.

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Amazing carvings – could spend hours there!

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Our entry point into Angkor Wat

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A look at what’s under the outer stones… more stones! (though different looking)

After turning the corner, we saw the staircase that would lead us up to the top terrace of the main temple.  The staircase to be used was not the original steps; rather, a staircase was built on top so that our visitor feet would not destroy the ancient stonework – and probably to keep us safe too.  It was a very steep climb but going up was not as scary as going down.  I am not scared of a steep climb or descent, but I also do not want to suffer a bad fall!

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After getting up

Once we got upstairs, it was REALLY cool.  From up there you see above the tree tops and can easily see how the jungle took over complexes like Angkor War once abandoned.

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View down to the upper terrace and the jungle beyond

There were four inner courtyards atop the temple and it was neat walking the outer hallway looking out in every direction in the compass while then turning inward and seeing the various temples or altars with Buddhas.  I do not recall how much time we spent up there but I enjoyed admiring it all.

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One of the inner courtyards

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Looking upwards from the terrace level

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First, a standing Buddha…

Angkor Wat, temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia, Cambodge, Camboya, travel, explore, viajes, Asia, photo, Buddha, Samsung Galaxy

… and then sitting Buddhas…

Angkor Wat, temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia, Cambodge, Camboya, travel, explore, viajes, Asia, photo, Buddha, Samsung Galaxy

… and finally, a reclining Buddha!

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Father and son (I assume) in prayer – nice to see it is an active faith site

So, Angkor Wat delivered on my expectation on seeing something quite unique in my experience and, clearly, from the experience of many as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (not one of the token ones, mind you, but a real one!).  Seeing the father and son praying made it even better as it is not just an archaeology site, but a site of living faith – very cool to see.

Angkor Wat, temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia, Cambodge, Camboya, travel, explore, viajes, Asia, photo, Samsung Galaxy

I am dumb as doorknob when it comes to selfies – I could not get out of the way of the tower much as I was being instructed to do!

Angkor Wat had been on my ‘hope-to-see-someday’ list and definitely the top spot for me to see in Southeast Asia.  I am grateful for the opportunity to see it in person and explore it – photo bomb on my credential or not 🙂  Now I need to decide what will go in its former spot in my ‘hope-to-see-someday’ list…  nice problem to have!

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