Cheese Town in The Netherlands: Gouda

As my trip to The Netherlands was taking shape, I was looking forward to visiting the town eponymous with cheese: Gouda. I had never stop to contemplate what this cheese town in The Netherlands could actually be like, much less look it up.

Gouda’s name doesn’t sound like it reads

Once in The Netherlands, I learned the town name is pronounced something like “Hao-da”. It does sound ridiculous vs. the pronunciation of the letters in English (or Spanish, or many other languages). But that is the cool thing about Dutch: it is very much its OWN thing. I tried not to be pretentious since it was only a half-day visit. So I stuck to “Goo-da” but I avoided saying it in front of locals to not offend 🙂

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Approaching town center coming from the nearby train station

Getting to Gouda

My visit to Gouda would be a daytrip from Rotterdam. Staying in Rotterdam, made it very easy to squeeze in a side trip since the ride was so short – about 20+ mins. From the Gouda train station, it was a 5-min walk to the shopping/pedestrian street leading to the heart of town. Easy-peasy!

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Tourist in Gouda

We stopped at the tourist info office at the heart of town (the “VVV“) and oriented ourselves. It is a small office and a good place to get info, plans, etc. if you have not done much research beforehand. They sell a handy and compact visitor booklet for 5 euros that is worth the spend. It orients you to town and the places to be sure to notice/see intown.

The tourist office is within a historic building, De Waag, where they weighed cheese brought in to the market for sale. Considering Gouda’s cheese market was established in 1198, we can say a lot of cheese has gone through it. Now, the Waag hosts the VVV and a small museum.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Town

We learned that Gouda became the “it” place for the cheese commerce beating other competitor towns. I thought the cheese was named for the town because it was made there but, no, it was made in the region. Gouda was just like the trading center. Who knew?

The central square still hosts a cheese market one day a week. The Gothic building at the center, City Hall or Stadhuis, built around 1450, was placed alone to avoid it catching fire should a fire start around it.

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Gouda, Holland, cheese town inThe Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, stadhuis, city hall, rathaus
Gouda, Holland, cheese town in The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Tasting

We opted to do a cheese exploration by visiting the Gouda Cheese Experience. It was a neat place with some hands-on interaction (not making cheese but in other ways) which made it interesting for kids and adults.

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True hands-on!

At the end, we had the chance to taste some cheeses before heading out. It was a good way to learn more about cheesemaking in all its aspects (ingredients, process, packaging, etc.).

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Amazing stained windows at Sint-Janskerk

Taking a small side alley from the market square, one enters the quaint area around the church of St John’s (Sint-Janskerk). The area is small and kept much as it has been for ages. It became one of my favorite spots in The Netherlands!

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Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Dutch canal
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
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The beautiful Lazarus Gate
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The reverse (or garden-side) of the Lazarus Gate
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture

The church is protestantly sparse – devoid of the warmth that I am used to in a place of worship. However, it hosts 72 amazing 16th century stained windows (most of them, not all). These stained windows were taken down during WW II so they would not be destroyed. They were stored all over the place until the war ended and they could safely hang in their usual spots.

Using an audioguide is highly recommended (included in the entrance fee) to better appreciate the art and what it depicts. It was time well spent!

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Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window

The church was built in the mid-sixteenth century after fire destroyed the medieval church that was located there (not an uncommon fate for churches in those times). Another claim to fame is that it is the longest church in The Netherlands.


I hope this gives you a small glimpse into this curious Dutch town – and that perhaps you read this and it makes you want to eat some Gouda cheese!

An Attic Church in Amsterdam

When The Netherlands left Catholicism after the Reformation, all Catholic churches became Protestant churches. While the Dutch were able to practice any religion, Catholics were not allowed to practice Catholicism in any public setting (let’s say, a loose definition of religious freedom was at play; they were allowed to be Catholic but only to practice in private). Therefore, people turned to private settings for the celebration of Mass and house “churches” came about around the country, hence this attic church in Amsterdam came about.

Amsterdam’s hidden Catholic church

One such place has remained intact, as it was set up a couple of centuries ago. It is known today as Our Lord in the Attic. The man who built this setting for Mass in the connected attics of three houses also lived in one of the houses. He was a rich merchant in 17th century Amsterdam. His last name was Hartman so the church was known as the “Hart Church” for some time.

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attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam
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attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam, altar

Visiting the attic church

One can visit this neat museum that still holds Mass on the first Sunday of each month and on Christmas Day. One not only can see the “church”, the priest’s quarters, but also the family’s residence.

The museum acquired a property across the side alley and the main entrance, shop, etc. are located there.. One goes downstairs to then, through a tunnel that runs under that side alley, one reaches where the visit begins.

In that space, one can see a model of the two buildings and visualize the space about to be explored. I recommend coming back and taking a look at the model ONCE the visit has been done.

Also, it is at that point where the visitor picks up the optional audio guide. The audio guide is included in the entrance fee (16.5 euros when I visited). It is highly recommended to use it so the place is better understood and appreciated.

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The canal house hosting the attic church

The living quarters may seem austere to us today but the house seems to have been spacious. The rooms are not all loaded up with furniture to show how it exactly was but there are some pieces of furniture and art.

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Above: spacious living room. Below: dining room and bedroom!
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Grandiose room with a massive fireplace!
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The house’s kitchen

A canal house with a great view of the canal

Take a look at the great view from the main level through the window and then from up higher. Of course, the area is now nicely painted and with modern vehicles but still a great view!

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The priest’s quarters

As I mentioned earlier, the priest was also provided a place to live in the back. It seemed like a spacious and convenient spot even if without the canal view the owner and his family enjoyed. And a potty closet to boot!

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Crazy staircases!

Of note to me were the two original staircases that remain. Steep, curvy – they require paying attention to not trip or fall!

crazy steep staircases, old canal house amsterdam

This is likely not atypical for many of the houses in Amsterdam’s historic center. Yet one more reason to check out Our Lord in the Attic: to see how Amsterdam’s beautiful canal houses felt like back when and could still be today!

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