Camino Packing and Training Tips

2 April 2018 by Raul 6 Comments

The Camino de Santiago has become a very popular destination/experience for many around the world, especially after the movie “The Way” hit the movies screens and as more people do it. People of all ages and nationalities gravitate to this, as did I and a group I traveled with last summer to hike the Camino. So far, I have written about each of our 7 days in a series of posts (start here with Day 1). But I’d thought I’d devote some time to sharing Camino packing and training tips.

While this is not an exhaustive treatise on each of the topics, it should give you a good high-level understanding on training. I hope it also helps you develop a good packing list with what to wear and items you will need. Please feel free to ask questions or suggest your own tips via the comments section below.

How fast can you do the Camino de Santiago

How strenuous the day is on the Camino de Santiago depends on how much ground you plan to cover on a given day. If you are young (read: in your 20s or early 30s), you likely think you can attack the Camino and do over 20 miles a day, perhaps 30. That’s crazy talk. Yes, you physically may be able to but a couple of things:

1. After a couple of days of pushing this way, your body will let you know how crazy that was. I have heard the horror stories. Don’t be over-ambitious.

2. More importantly, you are missing the point of the Camino. Yes, getting to the destination is the “aim.” But the point is to be on a journey, a pilgrimage (whether spiritual or emotional). Moving at the speed of sound renders this experience as just checking an item off the bucket list. Which, if it is all it is for you, then fast speed might as well be your friend because you will get bored not seeing it as an experience for such a long way. No judgment here, just saying that soaking it in is probably best.

The answer to this question could also depend on how much of the Camino are you planning to cover. I only had a week and had to do the minimum distance to get the Compostela (the famous certificate granted to provide pilgrims with proof that they did indeed make it to Santiago de Compostela). Therefore, I had to make sure I covered the distance. Yet, I had enough time to sit for leisurely lunches and also not have to wake up at the crack of dawn. I’d peg my speed at the mid-point with my max distance on a given day around 12-14 miles.

How to train to do the Camino

Let’s start the packing and training tips for doing the Camino with the latter. The Camino is not Everest Base Camp or Mt. Kilimanjaro but that does not mean it is easy. The challenges posed by the Camino are different than those epic climbs. While altitude is a factor in those hikes, that is not the case with the Camino.

The mountains or hills faced in the Camino will not compare to hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or getting to Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro. But if you walk more than the minimum distance required to get the Compostela, you will need to prepare for some good climbs. And the corresponding downhills (always fun on the delicate knees of a hiker…).

The final factor to keep in mind is that while there may not be tons of steep hills nor altitude, this hike puts a lot of stress on your feet. When I climbed Kilimanjaro, the distances walked on a given day were well in the single-digits in terms of miles (maybe it got to double digits in kilometer-land). Yes, it was difficult due to low oxygen and steepness but it was not brutal on my feet. Don’t get me wrong, when I would arrive at camp, I was desperate to take off my boots! But the Camino is much more unforgiving when it comes to your feet. They take a beating, so make sure they keep on ticking.

What to consider to build your Camino packing list

Before I get into the key items for your Camino packing list, clearly whether you are carrying all your stuff on your back or not makes a big difference. Yes, there is an option to NOT carry it all yourself from place to place! Now, that may not be your style and all that, and that’s OK. But, for some, it is the way to go and it was for me 🙂

Regardless of how you do it, I will still issue the same warning: don’t over-pack. You will be amazed at how little you can get by with. A lot less than you think. And worst comes to worst, you can go to a local store along the way and buy what you need…

But I also say that because going on this journey, in my view, is about changing some parameters about our lives. Develop new insights, clear our heads, have new experiences, and -hopefully- be renewed in whatever way we may need to. So, with all that said, here are some things that I deemed important to take along my Camino…

What to pack for the Camino

Feet

Good walking shoes or boots. Without good shoes that you have broken in BEFORE the Camino, you will be in trouble. Don’t be cheap about this item. Cheap out on the camera or other items but not on this, my friends! These could be boots or walking shoes. The former gives you better ankle protection. The latter may feel more comfortable. You may want both to alternate. After many days of wearing the same show, you may long for a different pair… Up to you (as are all the tips I share here!). Certainly, I would say, get waterproof in case it rains.

Along with the shoes, go non-cotton socks. What good is a pair of proper and broken in walking shoes if you are going to just slap on cotton socks? Cotton socks are an invitation for blisters and the painful fun that means for the few days after you develop them. Wool socks and, ideally, liners complete the most important focus of your gear list: your feet.
Now, if the socks and shoes don’t do it and a blister seems imminent (sometimes blisters just develop…), you must quickly take action to prevent the blister from materializing. At that point, you want to protect the spot where you are beginning to feel the burning (which is exactly what you feel BEFORE the blister arrives). The simplest and cheapest solution is to place a small piece of duct tape on that spot on your foot. Yes, stop, take footwear off and apply the small patch of duct tape – don’t wait. So duct tape is a must-carry on any hike with the added side benefit that you can repair other things with it as needed. But don’t carry the roll, for goodness’ sake! Wrap duct tape on a pencil or on your hiking pole and you will save space and weight.
In case things go too far and you develop a blister, a blister repair kit is a good idea to bring along. I was the beneficiary of a fellow’s trekker blister “repair” kit coming down Kilimanjaro and became a believer. I don’t recall the brand I used on the Camino but the item below is the one I bought for my next hike in Patagonia.

Clothing

Now we can get past all things feet. From a clothing standpoint, the usual advice applies here.

Layers. The weather can vary and some high spots can get very cold. And depending on the time of year, it could get quite warm during the day. So plan to have layers which help manage the changes you may experience throughout the day.
Waterproof. At some point, you may encounter rain so you want proper rain gear which might as well also serve as wind-breaking gear. In terms of things to wear, make sure it is really waterproof (Gore-Tex). Waterproof also refers to protecting the contents of your backpack, whether by placing a bag over your backpack or putting the contents of your backpack in plastic bags. Your choice!
Wicking. Since you may not be carrying one-for-every-day in the underwear category and to help your skin remain “un-irritated”, wicking underwear is a good idea. It removes humidity before sweat covers your skin which prevents bad odors. And, hence, should you decide to wear them more than once between washings, then at least you know you will not smell! Because my hike was only 7 days, I had underwear for every day but I still used wicking underwear for the comfort of not developing chaffing, etc.

Temperatures. Plan for a range of temperatures. This ties to the layers bit but also realize that, at night when you are not hiking, you may want to sit outdoors and it may get chilly at night, even in the summer depending on the weather system on a given day in your area. So some light jacket in the summer may be appropriate for the evenings; perhaps more substantial at other times of the year
Comfort. Be sure the materials you wear are comfortable to you. During 6-8 hours of hiking, you want to be comfortable not itching or something else. When you get to the next town, you WILL want those walking shoes off and will love slipping into some flip flops, sandals or running shoes or whatever other comfortable footwear you like. Bring only one of those, no need to overdo it, but allow yourself this luxury! (Flip flops could be handy to shower in communal showers if that’s your accommodation style!)

Miscellaneous

Hunger avoidance devices (read: snacks). You will not hungry on this trek! Plenty of places to stop and get a snack or a meal at very reasonable prices. Carrying two boxes of protein or granola bars is wasted weight and space and, more importantly, keeping you from sampling local foods and snacks. So, just carry what you buy locally or just stop along the way!
A camera! You can certainly opt for a different kind of travel if you are not drawn to capturing memories in this manner. Journaling, for example, may be a better way for some. For yours truly, though, the imagery of a place not only captures my attention but is also a way I use to be able to share what I experience. Along with this go the requisite battery charger or extra batteries and an appropriate number of SD cards 🙂 I do like the wifi SD card which allows me to transfer photos out of my SD card onto another device (good for backup or to clear memory on the SD card).
Toiletries and accessories. Yep, you know what this list is about (toothbrush, deodorant, etc.) so no need to detail it nor give you too much advice. But I will call out some things… First, bring travel-sized items. Second, see how much stuff you can live without. Do you really need a hair dryer? (No judgment implied!) Finally, some items I will recommend… Some hand lotion/moisturizer is a good idea. Chapstick is a must. Also, some antibacterial liquid (e.g., Purell) is a must along, Finally, add wipies to the list but no need to bring more than a handful per day, actually.
First aid. While there are kits out there, I just go with common sense and practical. There are drug stores and the like in the towns you will pass so no need to overdo it. Some band-aids, some anti-diarrhea meds in case you can’t make it to them town (no one had troubles of this sort in our group), some anti-inflammatory in case something hurts (knees, for example), and the like should make a good kit. As a packing tip, I used ziploc bags that are half of the regular sandwich bag to pack meds. This eliminated the need to carry bottles which can occupy more space. Whether you want to get Cipro (digestive system antibiotic), Ambien (to sleep) or anything else, it is up to you and your doctor. I took none of those meds though I take Cipro when I go to some destinations. Of course, if you are taking prescription drugs, bring those and write down somewhere the main ingredient (vs. the medication name). If something happens and you need to get more locally, the main ingredient is what you need.
Night light. If you will be sleeping in shared accommodations, this comes in handy to minimize disrupting others’ sleep and/or preventing you from tripping in the middle of the night as you make a night run to the restroom 🙂 I prefer headlamps like this one so I can be “hands-free”; please don’t make me explain why 🙂

Backpack. Please, whatever you do, do not bring a Swiss Army backpack (well-designed as they are for the frequent traveler) or, even worse, your college backpack. You will be likely carrying more weight than you are used to. And, I guarantee, that your back and shoulders will appreciate you bringing a backpack with a waist strap and a chest strap to help distribute the impact of the load on your upper body. Plus be sure the main straps and the backpack have some padding where they will touch your body. Remember, it is many days of carrying it so be good to yourself. And size does matters, when it comes to backpacks. Will the size you get be able to fit all that you will carry on your back every day? Remember, if you want the convenience, there are services that every day pick up your luggage and deliver it to the next place you will stay (if you know in advance). With this option, you only carry what you need during your walk. Bottom line: figure out how much you need the backpack to carry (don’t forget to account for the water!) and then choose a size.

Backpack cover. Along with this, have something ready to cover your backpack if it rains. Trust me, no matter what they say, water will get in if it rains enough (e.g., think of the zippers). You can buy a backpack cover (some backpacks come with it) or, save money and bring a nice size, good quality trash bag or maybe even just a cheap poncho. Additionally, a way to prevent stuff getting wet is by packing items in large ziplocs before placing them within your backpack. Remember that you are on the go and it may not always be easy or possible to dry any items that get wet.

Need any other Camino packing and training tips?

Alright, there is likely more to be said and advice to be given for someone planning their Camino packing and training. More than likely, I will make some edits in the future. In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts, ask questions, etc. in the comments section. Remember, your questions or suggestions will likely benefit other readers! And if you want an Excel version of my Camino packing list (with a lot of the smaller items), leave me a comment and I will send to you.

Buen Camino!

Want to see what every day was like? Click on the day and read on! Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6 and Day 7

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Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Camino de Santiago, doing the Camino, gear list, how to train for camino, packing list camino, spain, what to wear camino

How Hard Is It to Climb Kilimanjaro?

17 February 2018 by Raul 18 Comments

A few years ago I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa by virtue of being the tallest mountain there. I have written about how I prepared, what I wore for the climb, and how each day was from day 1 to reaching Uhuru Peak (Kili’s summit) to coming down the mountain. However, one of the things I have not written about directly is one of the questions I commonly get asked: “how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro?”

I get the question directly but I also it in a different way: when people look at me like I did an almost impossible feat. I get that it is not something most people do hence why it is a feat of a kind. But to me there are crazier and/or harder things (it is all relative, isn’t it??). So I wanted to share a little of my perspective on how hard it is to climb Kili.

Kili, Kilimanjaro, Moshi, Tanzania, trekking, hiking, climbing, adventure, Africa, outdoors, photo, travel

The first time I saw Kili outside of the Honey Badger Lodge – such an amazing mountain!

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A photo shared in my earlier post showing what I took with me (for the climb and subsequent safari)

A bucket list item that never was: Kilimanjaro

I never planned or thought of climbing Kilimanjaro. It had never occurred to me even as a fleeting thought. Nowhere in the radar. I had barely heard or read of people who had done it. Nor was I a big hiker to begin with (I had never slept in a tent until my first night on Kili!). My first multi-day hike ever had been the year before I climbed Kili when I hiked four days in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania with Trekking for Kids (TFK). This all changed one night at a fundraiser for TFK a few months later.

At this event, folks started egging me on to join them in a few months later on the climb Kilimanjaro with TFK. I considered the whole idea preposterous. I felt tremendously ill-suited for something so physically demanding. “Climbing Kilimanjaro is too hard,” I thought. While I exercise regularly and consider myself to be generally fit, I was not running half marathons (had done it once a dozen years before) nor doing bootcamps a few days a week nor anything of the like.

Climbing Kilimanjaro was for the super athletes of the world. I was far from being that though I knew I was in slightly better shape than the average person. But, a lot of cajoling, elbowing, and a couple (or 4) glasses of wine later, I succumbed to friendly group pressure and banter. I said yes. In a way, I was feeling excited that I would attempt something so ‘crazy’ and out of my comfort zone (always a good thing to do every now and then).

The next morning I woke up and incredulously remembered the prior night’s events. I was asking myself why I had agreed to undertake this ludicrous effort instead of politely saying I’d think about it. Well, I am not one to disappoint so I decided I was going to give it a shot after all. I decided that not because I thought that I had what it took. In fact, I thought it would take a LOT of training time I did not have. Training at altitude I also did not have easy access to. And requiring plenty more hiking experience at altitude or not that I did not possess…

Ready to start the climb – clean, well-prepared, and eager!

Getting ready for climbing Kilimanjaro

A million questions started swirling in my head once I accepted I was indeed going to stick to this. SO many question! How do I best prepare? What do I need to bring with me? What do I need to wear to deal with the cold? Can I do anything to improve my chances at the doing well under exertion? Can I do anything to help me be ready for the high altitude? What did I need to know in terms of my personal safety? How much was it going to cost me when it was all said and done? And on and on.

I was fortunate to have been doing the expedition to Kili with an outfit like TFK. They provided a good bit of info to help us prepare ourselves, and gladly answered all my questions as I researched things and acquired the things I needed. I even remember being at REI looking at stuff. I called TFK’s Director of Operations, an all-around hiking guru. And started asking many questions to understand the options, look at items, see if the items’ features were really needed, and all that sort of good stuff. It was not easy but having access to expert knowledge helped make these key decisions, Especially when spending is required and one has to be careful what one spends the hard-earned money on!!

I won’t repeat here all the things I decided to do in terms of preparation or to pack in terms of the best clothing options and non-clothing items to bring; I will provide links to those posts below. But now I will address here the “how hard” question…

So how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro then?

Hiking to the summit of a 19,340 foot mountain is not something to be undertaken lightly. OK, perhaps if you are a superstar athlete or have the right genes you can… but most of us do not fit that category. Actually, I take that back: even being a superstar athlete does not guarantee you will make it to the top of the mountain or even to the rim of the volcano (Stella Point for our route up).

Physical conditioning is only part of what is needed to make it to Uhuru Peak, the summit. It will most CERTAINLY help you tons. I experienced difficulties after the intimidating Barranco Wall and, of course, summit night for not being in the best possible shape. However, the other key factor affecting your chances of success is, well, simply how your body deals with the high altitude and lower oxygen levels.

The good news: you can do a couple of things that help a tad. Nevertheless, you have to have an OK fitness level. You WILL be exerting your body through a few hours a day of walking and gradual climbs, mixed with some steeper climbs at certain points!

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Leaving the Lava Tower looks harder than it was (Day 3)

Training at altitude would help but, from what I understand, the body’s adjustment to altitude dissipates within a few days/a week so that may not be logistically possible for most (if money and time were no object, of course, one would train at high altitude in another continent for a week or two and head straight to climb Kili without wasting days in between – not a likely approach for most). I did not do any high altitude / long climbs as part of my training due to many constraints but certainly they can only help so if you are able to do some of that in the weeks before, then your fitness level will be better.

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Heading to Barafu Camp from where we would launch to the summit (Day 5)

Part of my training as I share elsewhere was walking on a treadmill on a high incline with a backpack loaded with twice the weight I would carry on the mountain. It was an odd sight at the gym for sure but it helped physically if not just mentally… That and the fact that I am in general good shape through routine exercise were in my favor but I still struggled summit night (who doesn’t?) and after the Barranco Wall.

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Climbing along (not up) the Barranco Wall had its challenging spots (me in orange!) (Day 4)

A little while after the Barranco Wall (OK, an hour or so), we got hit by a little rain

Kilimanjaro was far from easy (each day I would end completely drained and able to move but barely). But I feel it is a reasonable, attainable goal for people with a fair degree of training/fitness. And with the drive to push themselves beyond what they think they can do. Yet, with all that, it will still all depend on how the high altitude hits each particular individual. And that reaction cannot be predicted.

I have to say that MOST CERTAINLY going with a great organization (in my case, a non-profit like Trekking for Kids) and having a one-of-a-kind extremely seasoned lead guide as we had (Luis Benitez – read about him here) were key success factors in helping ME complete the journey from planning to trekking to summitting. And making it down in one piece!

What was the hardest part about climbing Kilimanjaro?

It is a hard question to answer. We are all so different. My answer may not be yours. Things I can think of include:

the cold, especially at summit night,
the longing for a nice glass o’ wine or a beer (OK, I threw that in for comic relief),
the badly needing to get up to pee in the middle of the night (if taking Diamox – or not),
the constant packing and unpacking, inflating and deflating,
the not showering,
the bathroom situation at camp and on the trail,
the rocks to climb requiring longer legs than I have,
the having a sick tent-mate and wondering for days if you will catch it and not be able to summit,
etc.

(NOTE: Observe that food is not on this list of possible “hard” things. I ate great stuff thanks to our great porters and crew!)

But, frankly, all these things are overcomeable. For instance, while I used wipies every day to sort of clean up after a day of hiking, I had no such thing for the hair. Yet not even ONCE on the mountain did I think that it had been days since I had washed my hair last. Those who know me will know how incredible THAT sounds.

Kilimanjaro: Hard climb but special

That’s what makes going up Kili something special.

YES, it is hard in many ways. Indeed, physically, no matter how well trained you are (with those rare exceptions). But the hardest part is the mental part. When you wonder if you really can make it all the way. And when you wonder whether you want to – on one of those rare moments when you are too tired to think straight.

The hardest part is keeping going, putting one foot in front of the other when you think you can step no more. But you can. And you will. Pole, pole. Slowly, slowly – our internal Swahili chant. And you will be so amazed when it is all done that you actually did it. That you had it in you. I never knew I did. But I did. And I found out through this amazing experience… I am eternally grateful for those folks at that fundraiser who egged me on. Because the sense of achievement and the self-discovery was truly a gift received – or earned, actually 🙂

And this is the face of happiness at 19,340 ft above sea level at the summit, with my family close to me.

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At Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro!! (with the short-lived too-reflective sign; it’s gone now)

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Some key links to other posts I have written here based on my experience of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro:

Gear for Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro Clothing

Preparing to Hike Kili: More than Training and Gear

Top 14 Items to Bring on a Climb of Kilimanjaro

And if you want to read a day-by-day walkthrough of what it is to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro, start with Day 1.

And if you just like hiking in general, check out some of my posts about hiking in different places around the world!

Hiking in the state of Georgia: Blood Mountain

Hiking in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania

Trekking the W Circuit in Patagonia

Doing the Camino de Santiago in Spain

A Hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina

Would love to hear from you about places you hope to hike or favorites past hikes – always good to get ideas from others for future hikes!!

Filed Under: Africa, Hiking, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania Tagged With: adventure, Africa, climb, climbing, hiking, how hard Kilimanjaro, Kili, Kilimanjaro, mountain, Seven Summits, Tanzania, trekking, Uhuru

Barranco Wall – A Great Challenge | Kilimanjaro Day 4

27 January 2018 by Raul 39 Comments

The Barranco Wall is one of the most dreaded – if not feared- segments of the climb of Mount Kilimanjaro on the Machame Route. People often ask how hard is it to do the Barranco Wall. I was blissfully oblivious to the question before I went on this adventure. Blessed ignorance! While I had researched my trek and prepared for it, I had mostly focused on the training, clothing, gear, and altitude sickness more than on the intricacies of the climb or route itself.

Looking back, I am glad I did not know about the Barranco Wall before I met it that morning… How hard was it to climb the Barranco Wall? Was it like wall climbing or walking along a steep edge? How wide was the path along the Barranco Wall? How high was the Barranco Wall? What would I feel? I am sure the questions would have been endless. And, if you are reading this, perhaps you are asking yourself those questions and seeking answers. I will get to my answers to those questions, but let me take a step back in the narrative here…

Starting day 4 on the Machame route

There is a morning routine to camp life in Mount Kilimanjaro – at least I concocted one all of my own. This routine started with getting my “person” ready (dressing, brushing teeth, etc..). Then it moved to those activities that were about packing up (rolling up the pad, etc.). And the routine ended with getting ready to go (putting on the layers, filling water bottle, etc.).

While I was a little more leisurely about the first set of tasks (I woke up early enough), I usually felt rushed on the latter. I worried every day that I would slow down the group’s departure. Sure enough, I was often the last or second to last person to be ready. Not really sure why, I got up early enough! But I didn’t get voted off the mountain so I guess it was all A-OK!

Day 4 on the Machame Route up Kilimanjaro began like every other day: get out of the zipped-up sleeping bag, figure out where the full pee bottle was to not accidentally crush it, find the camp shoes, put on some warm clothes, have some water, take any of the daily meds required, etc. I executed the full morning routine as if nothing special was about to happen…

Hiker, Trekker in front of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania wearing Arcteryx

Once the morning routine was completed, this trekker looks like a pro!

Meet the Barranco Wall: A mental and physical wall?

But on day 4 I did wake up with something else on my mind beyond my routine: the Barranco Wall. I had on purpose not read every detail about the Machame Route before I left for the trip as I mentioned earlier because I figured leaving some element of surprise would be good. I did not want to be anticipating what came next but, instead, enjoy each moment in the present (and not dread the next moment…).

Then, the night before we went on the Barranco Wall, I was told about this well-known feature of the trail we were taking. I was not sure what what was shared really meant but I had seen the wall on our way in from a distance and I got a little worried about what it would take to get through it for this amateur. Clearly it was going to be a narrow path with the wall on one side and the “fast” way down on the other… I tried to not think about it because there was no sense in over-processing it. But I was hoping it was not wall climbing with a cliff’s edge right by my feet…

It should be called the Barranco Wait, not the Barranco Wall

Of all the things to have worried about, wall climbing was not it. No mental or physical wall there (that does not mean there were not a couple of tricky moments!). The real “wall” was the wait to cross the Barranco Wall! See, normally trails are wide enough to walk two people side-by-side which allows for letting porters pass you without you having to stop or get out of the way. We appreciated porters because they make the trek possible for the hikers (more on the porters here). So we always let them pass if we were walking side by side at any point.

However, the trail on the Barranco Wall narrowed to single file for most of it. The wall did require some times pulling yourself over rocks but always with the trail on either side of it (that is, never floating over empty space below). So porters would be trapped waiting for hikers to work their way through these points.

Our group stayed off to the side right before the Barranco Wall started to let as many porters pass but it became rather tedious as we ended up sort of waiting for like a good 30 minutes or so. Other than that the wall should take an hour or two depending on your fitness level and the traffic ahead.

The Barranco Wall on the Machame Route climbing Mt Kilimanjaro

Long line of climbers and porters entering the Barranco Wall. Me? In the waiting room to enter the Wall, I suppose!

Barranco Wall, here we come! OK, in 2 minutes. No, in 10. No in 20…

Finally, the wall

Wondering what lay ahead of me in the trail for this day, I was quite eager to initiate the hike (instead of pondering what lay ahead). I sensed others around me were ready to go for whatever reasons of their own.

We finally got started and I found the wall was actually quite doable. Yes, the trail narrowed at certain points to widths not comfortable for everyone but this actually did not bother me – but I still made sure I was closer to the wall than to the trail’s edge 🙂 The Barranco Wall is between 200-300 m high and, while not trivial, it didn’t hit me as scary from an altitude standpoint though people are very different when it comes to altitudes and ledges so keep that in mind.

Climbing on the Barranco Wall in Kilimanjaro

At the beginning of the Barranco Wall, finally! (Photo courtesy of K. Shuman)

Given we had to go very slowly, I had the time to look back at the direction of the Barranco Camp and the entrance to the Barranco Wall… And the ever-important photos…

View towards Barranco Camp from the Barranco Wall

Camp was in the direction of the green-roofed hut on the top left. Note that trail of trekkers and porters.

Entrance to the Barranco Wall on the Machame Route

Closeup towards the almost-dry stream we had to cross to enter the Barranco Wall’s “waiting room”

In the end, there were a couple of “tight” spots. One was a little jump, where help was necessary and useful (from a physical and mental block standpoint). It was better to have one’s hands free along the path to be able to hold on to things. So the hiking poles helped me most by being packed away versus in my hands. The physical exertion was a non-issue for me along the wall and I was glad for that – but there was more ahead, post wall… The Barranco Wall, for someone not afraid of heights, was not a hard thing to do. I suspect it is a different story for someone afraid of heights.

The trail after the Barranco Wall: a trail of doubt for me

With the wall behind us, I felt relief that now we were going to be back on a more “normal” trail – I had this! Well, we were not quite back to one of those normal trails. The trail after the Barranco Wall required climbing over a lot of rocks (without a cliff around) and the exertion of climbing over large rocks actually left me quite winded. I could see myself lagging the group a bit more with every passing section of the trail and I was not happy. Frustration and doubt started to creep in…

Our Trekking for Kids lead reassured me that the extra exertion of the legs would definitely have this impact (picture, if you will, the difference between walking uphill vs. walking up the same incline using stairs: it is harder on the latter). Still I was disappointed, I wondered if my fitness level was not up to par (I should have hiked more…) and – furthermore- what did this presage about summit night??

Our lead hiking guide, checking in on me at the next break, told me that an accelerated heart rate is also caused by altitude and may not be necessarily a statement about my fitness level. I appreciated the support of the TFK lead and our lead guide. It helped me muster enough strength to get me past this stage of the trail – but just barely…

Onwards and upward on Kilimanjaro!

Mercifully, after that stage, the trail become more the normal up and down hills so I was OK on those. Occasional rocks along the way were further apart from each other so the issue did not re-surface. I once again believed I could do this! My first moment of doubt since entering the mountain had lasted maybe less than an hour. But, mentally, it had been huge. So this is what people mean when they say climbing Kili is both a physical AND a mental challenge…

Along the way, the weather was seemingly taking a turn for the worse. So, we made a quick stop to put on our rain gear but it really did not rain much or for long at all – whew! While it would not have been terrible, it is just not fun…

Rain hits while climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

Hikers walking into the cloud…

We arrived at the Karanga Camp (13,800 ft; 4,200 m) after a 4 mile (7 km) hike that took us around 5 hours. We were very pleased that it was another nice camp on a sloping hillside with great views. The tents were on a little bit of a slope. But after one slightly uncomfortable night on Day 2, I learned the trick to make the sleeping bag as horizontal as possible. Just put stuff under the sleeping pad to even it out – simple solution!

Karanga Camp at Kilimanjaro's Machame Route

Yet another beautiful camp! (Photo courtesy of K. Shuman)

Getting the best sleep in Kilimanjaro – sleeping pad

It is worth explaining that we used sleeping pads under the sleeping bags for two reasons:

Further insulate you from the cold ground, and
A little more comfort in sleep with the extra padding.

For me, though, it was more about the comfort question as my zero-rated sleeping bag did a great job with the temperature.

My sleeping pad was an inflatable one (but not self-inflatable). I had not brought a pump with me to avoid the extra weight (the pump and then all the batteries). Given the altitude and diminished oxygen levels, I was worried this would be an issue. But it actually was no trouble at all. I just inflated the pad sometime before dinner so it was ready for bedtime. Plus it helped me practice my pressure breathing – good exercise for my lungs at altitude!

Folding the sleeping pad in the morning after deflating it to slip back into its tight packing sleeve was actually THE worst moment of my morning routine… EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. I should have traded sterilizing someone’s water every morning for folding up and packing my sleeping pad…

It’s all in the views…

Like many moments on this climb, neat views delight when they appear. After the Barranco Wall waiting room, the post-wall stage which slowed me down and brought doubt, and the slight rain we experienced, it was the nice views that really motivated me to continue with every day and every step. Such motivation was, for me, this view on Day 4…

Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit beckons climbers

The summit beckons! We are closer!

Back to Day 3…

… or on to Day 5!!

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Pin this image of the Barranco Wall to your board – you will make it OK through it – even if you have to wait!

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Other posts about my Mount Kilimanjaro trek experience:

– Preparing for the hike is more than training and gear

– Clothing required for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro

– The Machame Route: our way up

– 7 things you will not see me without as I climb Kili

– Day 1 of the hike: and away we go!

– Day 2 of the hike

– Interview with fellow Kili climber and Ultimate Global Explorer Len Stanmore

Filed Under: Africa, Hiking, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania Tagged With: Barranco Camp, Barranco Wall, climb, hiking, Karanga Camp, Mount Kilimanjaro, sleeping pad, Trekking for Kids

How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

2 January 2018 by Raul 3 Comments

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience. Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train. Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience. In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp. While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine. In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live: they are parks. But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand. Either way, the result is the same. One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience. It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return. That was OK with me. In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around. (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”. See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed. I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route. I also discovered the more impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!). The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft). EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft). So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night). Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous. (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar). Sleeping quarters are not heated. And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center. So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along. There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff. So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics. But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten. Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

Upper Body and Legs: The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost. Layers are key to both. Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan. Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood. The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice. It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
Feet: The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable. Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet. Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places. You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots. The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space. Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
Hands: Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must. You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
Head: A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know. You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).

Gear and other practical items

Sleeping bag: While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen. So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring. I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated. Very much needed!
Night light: When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc. Don’t forget batteries!
Pillow: A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow. I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

Trekking poles: Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support. Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!
Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar
Water: Treating water is very important. A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal. Batteries are the big thing here. Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it. Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through. Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen. I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack. It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.

Wipies/Tissues: These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty. Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around. Or other general cleaning purposes! [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
Towel: A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels. Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold. Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…

Medications and first aid: The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances. But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc. Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs. Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within. Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request. The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
Personal items: The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc. Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).

And, of course, duct tape! Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs! I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest! Pin it to your board!

If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below. I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!). Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Himalayas, Nepal Tagged With: adventure, Everest, hiking, Himalayan teahouse, Himalayas, Nepal, outdoors, pack for everest, packing list, tips for everest case bamp, travel, trekking

Top 14 Items for a Kilimanjaro Packing List

24 January 2017 by Raul 14 Comments

I assume that, if you are on this post you must be thinking of your Mount Kilimanjaro packing list. Well, you came to the right spot! How to prepare for climbing Kilimanjaro is a crucial step in your planning efforts.

Via this blog, I share my preparation and packing tips for what to bring on this amazing endeavor (in this post and others; see bottom of post for more inclusive posts). As I was helped with my planning, I’d like to help others. In a separate post I cover clothing. In this post I cover my 14 top items to bring to Kili. Hopefully, my list and accompanying explanations will be helpful!

A Kilimanjaro packing list is no small thing!

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Climbing Kilimanjaro is quite the experience – an achievable one for most people with some training and mental readiness for the effort. But climbing to the “roof of Africa” is also an operational endeavor! Lots of planning for the clothing and other items that are needed. This while balancing needs, cost, and weight. The following picture sort of gives you a visual of the amount of stuff that my Kilimanjaro packing list included.

I have written in another post about what to bring as far as clothing if you are climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. That post can help you build the clothing part of your Kilimanjaro packing list. In no particular order and without further ado, here are the top 14 non-clothing items that were most helpful for me in my hike.

My top 14 items for your Kilimanjaro packing list

1. Sleeping bag

Get a good one. One that keeps you warm. Remember that some of them work best when you wear the least amount of clothing. I know. It seems counter-intuitive. But it is true. Zero (Fahrenheit) -rated is recommended. If not, get a liner with extra warmth. But the best is just a good sleeping bag as the liner would be just one-more-thing to get into and out of… The mummy style works best. You want that tapered shape instead of a rectangular one – the rectangular one has more space for air inside that will need to be warmed and that heat comes from you body. The tapered one is better in that regard.

Amazon.com Widgets

2. Wipies

Oh, wipies, thou art so versatile! Whether it is cleaning yourself after a day of hiking or cleaning yourself after nature calls – or just to wipe your hands after eating, these little suckers are quite helpful. Take some. Take a good amount.

3. Pee bottle

“Huh??,” you may say. That’s what I said too. But, stay open-minded…

Picture this: middle of the night, you zipped into your zero/sub-zero rated sleeping bag, in a tent, with two pairs of zippers in your way to go outside, you with little clothing on, outside freezing cold, you needing to put on clothes, shoes too, stumbling to find the headlamp so you don’t stumble outside OR, middle of the night, you zipped into your zero/sub-zero rated sleeping bag, stumbling to find the bottle (i.e., the pee bottle), then trying to carefully point/aim. Done. Yea, I thought so. Pee bottle.

A tip: Get a wide mouth bottle (improves the odds of filling it not your tent).

Another tip: Make sure it seals tight so, when it tips over as you move in your sleep, it will not fill your tent.

Final tip: Make it big enough. Do not underestimate how much pee comes out in one “go” plus you may go more than once per night. Any questions?

4. Headlamp (with plenty of batteries)

The headlamp will be key on summit night as you start the hike up to the summit at midnight. You will need to watch your step even if you go with a full moon. Additionally, at camp at night and in your tent, you will make use of the headlamp. Make sure you bring extra batteries and save those for summit night. An extra little light bulb may be good but if the one you have is new, you may not need it (I didn’t).

Amazon.com Widgets

5. Pain killer

While my personal preference is to deal with the pain without the need of meds, this approach is suspended when I am trying to climb a 19,340 ft mountain, you know? I was not sure how my knees would perform nor what other pains may arise during this week long adventure. I only used them on the descent (not at the start while going down the scree field but after leaving base camp). It is EXTREMELY rocky in this part of the mountain and I could feel my knees were going to have issues. I took 2 preventive Advils and repeated once later during the descent and then with dinner that night. Whether because of my preventive measures or not, I had only very slight soreness on my knees.

6. Ambien

I was leery of using Ambien at altitude not knowing what effects, if any, it could have on me (other than making me fall asleep). I had them more for the flight and my first night in-country not for the hike. But our lead guide said it was OK and maybe even a good idea to take half an Ambien to take the edge off and be able to fall asleep in the evenings since rest was so important during the hike. So I did and it all worked great.

7. Hiking poles (two of them!)

Yes, this hike will be a lot easier with two, not one, poles. Poles give you impulse as you climb over a big step and also you can push off with them as you move forward. However, they shine in the descent: my knees would have been pulp (more than they were) if I had not had these poles to soften the impact when stepping down over rocks. Can’t recommend using them enough (even if you are “tough” – everyone has them) – and if you can score the ones with shock absorbers, even better!

Do try them out somewhere as the grip will be important. I liked the foam grip and cork handle as it would feel better if my hands got sweaty either way I held it. I could unscrew the handle to use it as a camera mount (though I did not use that feature during this hike). Also, make sure they are adjustable: when you go up, you may want them shorter than when you are going down when you may want them longer! There are hiking poles at every price point so just check them out in person, ask questions, and then pick! Or even better, borrow them from someone you know 🙂

Amazon.com Widgets

8. Duct tape

You never know what you will need this for and therein the beauty of duct tape: it fixes anything. OK, I exaggerate. Most anything. I roll it on a pencil as taking the roll itself is bulky. You can use it to fix a broken backpack or to nip a budding blister before it becomes a nightmare. You choose the color!

9. A camera!

OK, this may be obvious. I was trying to keep the weight down in my “carry-on” during the hike but I clearly needed a camera. How would I otherwise take magnificent pictures?? I did make a good decision to get a high quality pocket camera instead of my regular bulky camera. Good call – I got plenty of great photos but without too much bulk/weight. The views and the moments are worth the camera weight!

10. Quick dry towel

While you are not showering for the duration of the hike, you will be brushing your teeth and, likely, your porters will have warm water ready for you when arrive at camp to wash your hands, face, etc. The quick dry part is likely self-explanatory (when you leave a camp, you don’t return to not a lot of time for the towel to dry out).

11. Pad for the sleeping bag

The ground you will be sleeping on is often hard and cold. In fact, at a couple of places it was even rocky. The little pad the hike organizers provide for you to lay your sleeping bag on is rather thin and will not do a good enough job to add cushion or protection from the soil. I took with me an inflatable pad that made my sleep more comfortable – and that is priceless. A fellow hiker was going to let me use her pump but I ended up having no problem blowing up the pad even at higher altitudes (good job, my lungs). I got to practice my forced breathing by blowing up the pad so it was good all-around! (I did HATE every morning deflating it and folding it up…)

12. Notepad

You may want to bring something to write on as you will have a lot of time at camp after a day’s hike and you may have things from the day to jot down so you don’t forget. I wrote down start/end times, hours walked, and even what I ate. I also took notes on funny things or things I experienced – not quite a diary, just quick notes. On the topic of a lot of time at night, you may want to bring anything else that may amuse you (cards, Sudoku sheets, etc.) but don’t add too much weight to your bag!

13. Water purification method

Water is boiled at camp but that is only for cooking. It takes too long to boil water at altitude. And your porters will not be able to boil water for you to drink. You will need to bring your own purification solution of which there are several options (purification tablets, ultraviolet radiation, etc.). The tablets, such as iodine tablets, are lighter to carry. However, you have to wait for the water to be ready to drink and the iodine causes an odd taste.

SteriPENs are a portable ultraviolet radiation option that is quick and easy. I had brought the tablets but others had SteriPENs in the group and I quickly realized how much better the SteriPEN approach was. They all offered the rest of the group their SteriPENs so I traded using one of the hiker’s SteriPEN for sterilizing her water bottles in return – a win win! Just know they can be temperamental and be sure to bring enough batteries!

Amazon.com Widgets

14. But the most important item…

Hopefully, this list has been helpful so far – if you have any questions on the above items or any other, feel free to leave a comment and I will get back to you. While the list is not all-inclusive, it is the list of the items I most appreciated having with me. However, the most important item I brought along was… a photo of my family. This photo went with me to the summit which meant they went up Kilimanjaro too, with me…

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Want to read how the hike went? Start on Day 1

Hike to an Inn in North Georgia

19 September 2016 by Raul 2 Comments

If you are a casual reader of this blog, you will know that I enjoy hiking near and far from my home. One of the “near” hikes on my list to check out was the hike to the Hike Inn in north Georgia. The Hike Inn can only be accessed by hiking to it hence the name (actually, it’s full name is Len Foote Hike Inn). There is a service road leading to it but, as the name implies, it is for service, not for guests. Guests need to do the 5 hour hike in and out.

The trail begins atop Amicalola Falls (about 1.5 hrs/70-mile drive from Atlanta) – a destination to check out onto itself with other trails and a phenomenally tall set of staircases if you want to walk from the bottom of the falls to the top. On this day, we drove to the top of the falls where we would leave our vehicles.

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The top of Amicalola Falls – awesome place!

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The start of the Hike Inn trail

The Hike Inn is in high demand so you need to book it in advance. It is well worth it. The hike is not super strenuous and you are rewarded by a magnificent place to stay.

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Amazing detail of nature

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Along the trail

Our arrival at the Hike Inn!

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The view from the Hike Inn – magnificent

The accommodations are basic (bunk beds) and you can get private rooms. The bathrooms and showers are shared but they are actually quite clean and nice (especially when compared with how basic the rooms are). The toilets actually do not flush but, instead, deposit the waste (nice wording, huh?) somewhere below where it is taken advantage of through processes that they staff will happily explain if you decide to take them up on the tour of the facility (it is actually worth doing).

Hallway by the rooms

Bath house building

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There are rules for the toilet

Actually, everything about the place is about taking care of the environment. The inn offers dining service with support of volunteers who get to stay for free for their service. The Hike Inn politely stresses the importance of not wasting food (only serve yourself what you need) and actually tracks clean plates’ count at the end of a meal. The food is delicious and the dining area is an open space where you can meet other hikers. Really neat.

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Dining area

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Menu of the day

Chart showing how well diners have done

After dinner (or before), you can sit and relax in any number of places around the inn. One of my favorites is the upper porch looking east-ish – I love me a good rocking chair with a view! You can also go for short walks around. Right in that upper porch area is a game room where people can congregate and play games or read a book.

The living/game room

The best part of it all is sunrise. If you wake up early enough (and I recommend it!), go down to the sitting area below and face east. Bring a blanket. And then enjoy a majestic sunrise if the weather cooperates. It is the perfect way to end the stay before starting back on the trail down. Next time I go, I think I may stay two nights to really enjoy the place and its surroundings! I leave you with a series of photos from the amazing sunrise I witnessed!

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Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: Amicalola Falls, Hike Inn, hiking, hiking in Georgia, hiking near Atlanta, nature, outdoors, sunrise hikes

Chattahoochee River Hikes: Vickery Creek Trail in Roswell

23 May 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

Right by old town Roswell, a few miles outside of Atlanta‘s “perimeter” (an interstate highway that rings the city), is the Vickery Creek Trail. There are about 7 miles worth of trails in this pocket of nature in the middle of Roswell. A portion of the trails are near the creek (also named Big Creek) which hits the Chattahoochee River right by the entrance to the parking lot I used to hit the trailhead. This area is also part of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, a collection of parks along the river which crosses Atlanta from the NE to the SW (sort of!).

The trail offers moderate hiking, with some fairly flat portions and a few climbs that I would guess are not too strenuous to the average person. The trails are well marked (the blue square spray painted on trees) and well signed so one can make one’s way around pretty easily. Because of the time of the year, what seemed to me to be mountain azaleas were in bloom (pinkish flowers).
What is cool about this trail is seeing the two waterfalls created by a small and a large dam. The area around the larger waterfall is not large and one has to watch one’s step but it is a pretty spot.

There are also a covered bridge and a large span bridge further down which facilitate cross the creek to other trailheads and parking areas. Whether you are here in Atlanta to go up to the mountains or just visiting the city, this trail is one of many easy to visit and yet offering a unique hiking experience!

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, US & Canada Tagged With: Atlanta, Georgia, hiking, hiking in Georgia, nature, outdoors, Roswell, trails near Atlanta, where to hike near Atlanta

How Can You See Atlanta’s Carpet of Green? Pine Mountain!

26 April 2016 by Raul 3 Comments

Atlanta is known for its crazy traffic and challenging airport. But it is also known for the carpet of green that covers the city far and wide. A week ago (or so), I was looking for a new hike not too far from the city and new to me. Thankfully, we are not lacking for good hikes within 30 mins of the city (and if you expand that to 1.5 hrs, the possibilities are endless it seems!).

I opted to go north on I-75 to climb Pine Mountain in Cartersville. The 4.6 round-trip hike was of moderate difficulty and not heavily trafficked. When I arrived around 9:45 AM, the small parking lot of Main St. (not even a quarter mile from I-75) was pretty full.

The trail has a West Loop and an East Loop connected by a pass where the summit is found. We hiked the southern end of both loops and the returned via the northern loops. It was beautiful terrain and, with trees still not fully covered with leaves, one could see much further around which is one of the things I enjoy about hiking in colder weather.

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Trail Map

What I enjoyed about this hike, beyond its accessibility for this city dweller was that it offered a great view of the carpet of green that is the greater Atlanta metro area. In the distance I could see the faint skyline of downtown, Midtown, Buckhead and Sandy Springs with Lake Allatoona in the foreground. I have to say, this was a neat hike easily fitting in a half day. I leave you with pictures from the hike and the view though the skyline is too small for it to show well on the photos so may not even see in these photos. Beware: a lot that looks like just green forests actually hides neighborhood after neighborhood in greater Atlanta!

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The double hump mountain is Kennesaw Mountain, a famous Civil War battlefield

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Of course, the highway (I-75) is not too far away!

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Lake Allatoona

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: Georgia, hiking near Atlanta, hiking trails in Atlanta, nature, north Georgia mountains, outdoors, what to do near Atlanta

Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

11 April 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back. As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin. This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche. This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post. And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s. We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below. A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right. This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek. Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

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Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area: Ama Dablam. It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker. Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house. Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite. Sometimes one, sometimes the other. Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun. A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

Lemon tea, anyone? One or two glasses…

Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand. They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb. I was torn. On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating). I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch… But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit. So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?). In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours. The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon. It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal. We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world. And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

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Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

Lots of color and detail

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche. With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away! Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek. Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too. The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had. I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me. We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

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Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly. There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water. I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer… The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature. Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning… Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change: a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche… The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari). It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors. That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways. We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail… While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal: the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.

Want to start at the beginning of this trek? Here is day 1. Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.

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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

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Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

4 April 2016 by Raul 9 Comments

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp. I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great. I think the group as a whole liked it a lot. Good start to our time in Namche! (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this. I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

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The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner. I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp. It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style. Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight! (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…). Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

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View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain). We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day. The short hike was steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point. There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

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At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established. It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

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Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

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Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

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Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte. Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!

View from the lodge’s dining room

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Read on: Day 4 – To my turning point: Deboche

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Nepal Tagged With: base camp, Everest, Everest Base Camp route, hiking, Himalayas, Khumbu Lodge, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, trek, trekking

Hiking in Nepal: On the Way to Namche Bazaar! (Day 2)

14 December 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

On Day 2, we left our teahouse in the tiny spot of Tok Tok (9,000 ft / 2,800 m) at around 8:45AM to head, following the route to Everest Base Camp, to Namche Bazaar, a rather bigger town than most in the area (actually, THE biggest). This would have us climb over 2,000 ft in the last 2.5 hours of the hike that day, a rather ambitious and challenging effort (except for the super fit and those used to the altitude, perhaps – I fell under neither success category…).

Leaving our spot in Tok Tok, we stood for a group photo as one of the trekkers was not continuing beyond Tok Tok.

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Group photo!

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Our first bridge of the day was right outside the teahouse – watch out for the pack animals!

On the trail to Everest Base Camp…

Soon thereafter, off we went walking on terrain that was becoming familiar to us: rocks, dirt, steps, pack animals, farms, debris from the earthquake, reconstruction, and the river. It is a rugged but peaceful terrain; except when the pack animals come – at that point you make a quick move towards the inside of the trail, not the side facing the steep dropoff! On this day, we would cross the river four times if memory serves me right.

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Steep climbs every day!

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Pack animals: these were carrying a very light load

Typical stop for trekkers

Entering the Sagarmatha National Park

Later that morning, we officially entered the Sagarmatha National Park (which is the park where Mt. Everest sits) via the Jorsalle gate (which is right outside of Monju on the way to Jorsalle). There was signage offering good advice for trekkers in dealing with acute mountain sickness (there are always those who are unprepared…). More importantly we passed a traditional kani gate which incorporates prayer wheels and colorful paintings on the walls and ceilings. This gate marks our entrance in the sacred valley of the Sherpa (a term that refers to an ethnic group, not a job, as we learned…): the Khumbu. I loved the rules suggested to those who enter the valley (see photo).

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The kani gate marking the entrance to the sacred valley

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Ceiling painting

Wall painting and the ever-present prayer wheels at the kani gate

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Warnings about acute mountain sickness

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Follow these rules!

Breaks from the trail: tea and food

While the actual walk is rewarding despite the challenging parts, one of my favorite moments is when we stop 🙂 Yes, it is about getting a break from the effort. But it is also about the camaraderie over that cup of tea, lemon or mint with the latter being my favorite. As we all have different paces, non-walking time is when we get to share with those we don’t keep up pace with (or those who can’t slow down easily!). After tackling the first mile (which was not a walk in the park), we made a restroom stop at Benkar but did not even sit- this was not our morning break for tea.

Brief stop to use the ‘facilities’ and take a snack out

Resuming our hike with a nice downhill

So we trudged along and, after we entered the Sagarmatha NP, we later hit our morning break at Monju (or Monzo) at a place that I would stop at on the way back to Lukla. The outdoor terrace was very spacious and comfortable (perhaps because we were the only ‘crowd’ there) and the temperature was great so we enjoyed sitting in the terrace sipping our tea!

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Tea time in Monju!

And then we proceeded to Jorsalle where, not 30 minutes later, we would have lunch outdoors by the river at a teahouse there. It was a great stopping point right by the trail (as most are). It was a good break before the final push, and I mean PUSH, to Namche Bazaar – we would be starting a serious vertical climb over a rather short horizontal distance. Heaven help me! We left our lunch ‘resting place’ at around 1 PM.

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Approaching Jorsalle, our lunch ‘town’

Lunch time in the sun!

Bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River

Before I get to the monster climb… This day was made fun by the many bridges low and high, short and long we would cross. If you are not a fan of suspension bridges, this may not be your favorite day but the most important thing to mind are the pack animals, not the height of the bridges! Here are some images from the “day in bridges.”

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Pack animals have right of way – if you are smart!

Lovely scenery from the bridge’s vantage point

One of the smaller bridges we dealt with

Beautiful spot (notice the prayer flags)!

Loved walking this close to the Dudh Koshi River

And then we got to this… (the bottom bridge is closed now)

And we are about to walk across the highest one!

View down from the highest suspension bridge

And our awesome endpoint: Namche Bazaar

The route to Everest Base Camp is not a steady uphill. No place ever is (even Mt. Kilimanjaro has its downhills as you climb) but this was as much going down as you have gone up in many stretches.

In fact, this day, on a 5.3-mile (8.5 km) route, our net climb was around 2,300 ft (about 800 m) – we climbed much more (upwards of 4,000 ft) and descended a good bit. But after lunch what we faced was mostly a severe uphill, especially after the last suspension bridge (the highest one). And the trail was very rugged to boot. Hard stuff. I didn’t know how I could finish it. And remember, we were climbing to our end point at over 11,300 ft (3,400 m) so the thin air was having an impact (as a reference point, once in Namche Bazaar, we would be at 67% oxygen level vs. sea level!!). I had to stop every now and then just to catch my breath especially after a stretch where the ‘steps’ (rocks) were higher. Not knowing how much more I really had was both a blessing and a curse. Certainly I would not want to know how much more most of the way but maybe during the last 30 minutes I would have wanted to know that Namche was THAT close.

With the incredible climb at the end, Namche Bazaar could not have come sooner. So, it was awesome when we rounded a corner about 2.5 hours after lunch and we saw this town incredibly nested in what looked like mother nature’s own amphitheater: Namche Bazaar! It was a photo op moment for sure and we had earned the rest day coming up on Day 3!

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I shall name this photo: “The first time I saw sweet Namche”

The moment I stopped when I rounded the corner – best moment ever!

My trek roommate and I celebrating we had survived

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Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Himalayas, Nepal Tagged With: base camp, Everest, Everest Base Camp route, hiking, Himalayas, Khumbu, Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Tok Tok, trek, trekking

Hiking in Nepal: Lukla to Tok Tok (Day 1)

4 December 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

My trek in the Himalayas followed the route to Everest Base Camp. I only had two weeks’ vacation so I was short one week to make it all the way to “EBC” since my visit to Nepal included an extra number of days to help in the re-building of a school that was destroyed during the April 2015 earthquake in the village of Kumari. It was a great trip and I did not want to miss seeing Mount Everest in person. Making that decision was not the hardest part, figuring out what I need to take was! (Read here for how I packed for the trek!)

However, I went on this trek with Trekking for Kids because I knew some of the folks going and it was not a bad time to be away from work (is there ever a good time??). So my trek was going to be from Lukla to Deboche, past the Tengboche monastery. As it turned out, that ended up being a good choice since my stepfather died back home the day before I left Nepal for home. But, before that turn of events, I was already glad I had chosen to not go all the way.

Day 1 took us from Lukla (2,860 metres (9,383 ft)) to Tok Tok (2,760 metres (9,o55 ft)). While an overall descent, there were plenty of climbs and descents along the way!

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Our starting point and ending point for day 1

Starting the trek: getting to Lukla

Starting the trek in Lukla required first getting to Lukla. As I shared in an earlier post, either one does a local bus and then a few days’ hike to get to Lukla or one flies into one of the “most dangerous” airports in the world: Lukla (LUA). I did the latter for a couple of good reasons: that was what was pre-planned by Trekking for Kids and I didn’t have enough vacation time anyway!

You can read the details in the earlier post but the short of it is: I made it to Lukla alive and without too much suffering 🙂

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The Lukla airport – a very short and dramatic runway!

Getting the trek going: leaving Lukla

After we landed in Lukla, getting our bags was a piece of cake (the airport is tiny, after all). From there to our breakfast stop (at a hotel we would return to at the end of the trek) was a very short walk (Lukla is tiny, after all). We got there and, as we had left Kathmandu at the literal crack of dawn, we proceeded to have some breakfast before heading out. Our guides had to sort our things with the porters we were picking up in Lukla so we had ample time. I can’t really recall what I had but nothing too heavy as we were leaving for a few hours’ hike.Everyone was itching to go and, when we finally did, I think we had a little bit of adrenaline flowing! Close to leaving Lukla, we came to our first gate and prayer wheels and the backdrop was phenomenal in the deep blue sky ahead. It was a sign of the great day ahead!

Though we started the hike at over 9,000 ft, we warmed up pretty quickly as the hike progressed. It felt so good! Hamlets in this part of Nepal are charming probably because of the color applied to the window and door frames and we started noticing this early on.

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Approaching a hamlet

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House along the trek route

We crossed our first hanging bridge on this day (one of two hanging bridges that day). It was not too high (I am not afraid of heights, thankfully) and it was certainly long. We would follow this river all the way to near Namche Bazaar. We also crossed another bridge, a truss one, that day. I noticed that some parts of the route, as it passed through small “hamlets,” were paved with stones while others were dirt paths. It was nice to have the variation in the route – just like it was nice to have all the uphills and downhills mixed.

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Approaching the Dhudh Kosi River and the hanging bridge

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Beautiful waters, courtesy of glacierland!

Buddhist faith along the route

Along the way we passed different-sized prayer wheels and collections of Tibetan tablets (in sanskrit) that are so iconic and that speak to the concreteness of the faith in that region of Asia. I tried to not miss spinning prayer wheels and we certainly made sure we passed the “monuments” on their left as tradition/faith requires.

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Sanskrit tablets and a stupa

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A prayer wheel asking to be spun

A hiker has to eat!

Along the way we stopped for lunch at a beautiful spot where the route made a 90-degree angle. The place, the Wind Horse Lodge and Restaurant was a perfect spot, idyllic, for the stop. We sat outside at tables on the small lawn, graced by marigolds along the edges. Until clouds rolled over and it started getting cold. We promptly found tables indoors and the lunch was pretty darn good: fried noodles and rice along with fried mini empanadas (my Latin roots betray me as that is not what they call them there!).

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Lunch!

Ending our hike in Tok Tok

Bellies full and feet rested, we proceeded on our hike. I try on these treks to not study the route we are going to take as I don’t want to be “expecting” the next stop or calculating how much longer we have to go – I want to enjoy the moment though, I admit, at times when I am feeling tired, I start trying to figure out how much longer I have to go 🙂

We arrived at our teahouse in Tok Tok (River View Lodge) and, as usual, it is a great feeling to hear the words “We are here” when we arrive at our resting place for the night! It was a tiny spot nestled between a hill and the river. I wish it had been a tad warmer to stay outside in the evening.

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My room at the teahouse

The dining room (aka, hanging out room) at the teahouse

In the end, it was a spectacular first day trekking in the Himalayas and I slept well that night! I leave you with one of my favorite views from that day!