Arriving in the Southern Island of Middle Earth: Christchurch, New Zealand

There are so many awesome places in New Zealand but I feel Christchurch, though not one of the top 2 cities in NZ, may be the best place to hit first on a trip over (Dunedin is not far behind!).

The arrival

I arrived in Christchurch on the eastern coast of the southern island of New Zealand (where Lord of the Rings was filmed; the lands in the movie were called “Middle Earth” for those who may not be familiar with the movie!).  From the plane we flew over the southern Alps, as they are unofficially called.   In this picture, we pass over the highest peaks and you can even see a glacier coming down.  This is the view you want to see ahead of coming to NZ!

Southern Alps, New Zealand, Christchurch, glacier, nature

Glacier flowing to lower right corner of pic as I fly over the Southern Alps in New Zealand

It was around 230 PM and we were delayed getting off the plane because a passenger had flu-like symptoms.  Nice.  The health person from the airport had to board the plane and do some kind of test on the passenger before any of us could get off.  I could not see exactly what he was doing but after a few minutes of whatever, we were allowed to get off the plane.  The airport claims to be the “top carbon neutral airport company in the southern hemisphere” which I found amusing for a couple of reasons, one of which is the recurrent theme in Australia and NZ of claims about a place being the “—-est” (tallest, biggest, cleanest, etc.) in the “southern hemisphere”.  Considering how little of the world is in the southern hemisphere, these claims almost seem too easy 🙂  but, heck, someone’s got to make the claim!

Besides being carbon neutral, the airport is nice and small and it was very easy to just go to the bus stop and catch bus 29 intown.  It dropped me off very close to my bed and breakfast but apparently I signaled “stop” one street too early so I walked an extra block.  No worries, extra exercise.  The streets were very pleasant and had the air of a place where people knew each other, where people felt safe, and where the pace was not too fast and not too slow – a great place to get to know NZ and, especially, the south island.

A great place to stay in Christchurch

The Orari Bed and Breakfast was in an old house and was very nice.  At 6 PM they cracked open some wine for the guests so I knew I had ample time to walk around before sunset (around 430 PM) and be back to shower, unpack and get some wine.  The room was frigid when I got there though they had turned on the standing heating unit probably just before I arrived.  I thought I would freeze that night but the standing units (there was another one) and the heating blanket worked really well.  In fact, all too well, I was burning up in the middle of the night and had to turn off the heating blanket!  It was the first time I had used one…  I was very glad with my choice of place to stay due to a great location next to an art museum but otherwise not in the middle of things, yet a short walk away from places to eat, the city center, etc.  Oh, and the staff is great!  It definitely made me feel Christchurch and NZ was putting its best foot forward to welcome me.

The Garden City

The town of Christchurch is called the Garden City and I would agree with that although it was the beginning of winter.  The “suburbs” were very nice but also the areas closer to the city center.  The city center itself was manageable and with some key sights to check out.

Christchurch, New Zealand, cathedral, earthquake, southern island, architecture, Canon EOS Rebel

The ill-fated cathedral, fatally damaged in the earthquake and now being rebuilt in Christchurch

Christchurch cathedral New Zealand earthquake southern island

Interior of the cathedral of Christchurch before it was destroyed

Christchurch square plaza chess New Zealand

A friendly game of chess in Christchurch’s main square

architecture center of Christchurch New Zealand, Canon EOS Rebel

Beautiful architecture in the center of Christchurch

New Regent street in Christchurch before earthquake New Zealand Canon EOS Rebel

New Regent St. in Christchurch – seriously damaged during the earthquake

I strolled down Oxford Terrace by the small river that cuts through the town as there were a lot of restaurants/cafes/pubs along the street and I wanted to scope out where I would have dinner later that night.  I settled for a place called Sticky Fingers where I later got to enjoy a very nice Sauvignon Blanc wine from Marlborough called Cloudy Bay.  The place has a nice smart and modern ambiance.  The seating areas was very comfy and next to but separate enough from the bar area.  The food was good but I would not say stellar.  Other restaurants in the strip that caught my attention were Ferment and Liquidity.

My visit in Christchurch was short and I am going back at the end of my tour of the southern island so I should get to sample another restaurant and sip on the wine at Orari.  The tempo of the city and its charm served as a great welcome mat for this first time visitor to the magical place that is New Zealand.

(Pictures taken with Canon EOS Rebel)

Trip Planning – Ready. Packing – Not so Ready. About to Go Down Under!

So I sit here writing this entry when -perhaps- I should be starting to pack…  I am less than 48 hrs away from departure but my packing list (serving me faithfully since 1997…) serves as my security blanket.  I proceed writing here not too preoccupied with my packing slackness.  Of course, packing will also be interrupted by a Mexican dinner with friends tonight and, I am sure, by other things tomorrow!

I will leave Monday and the trip will, for sure, be long.  But not as long as my trip to Tanzania which had 2 very long layovers in London and Dubai…  I found a great fare to/from LA in the US with Air New Zealand taking me to Sydney, then including the leg from Melbourne to Christchurch, and finally bringing me back from Auckland.  To and from LA from Atlanta, I used frequent flyer miles.  (Sadly, I had enough miles with Delta for a first class seat all the way but the partner airlines serving Oz and NZ did not have availability EVEN FOR COACH!  Frequent flyer miles are becoming more and more valueless with time.)

My route

So what am I doing?  After a lot of research online (websites, Twitter, etc.) and in travel guidebooks, here is the plan I settled on:

–  Starting on June 3rd for short of a week:  Sydney and vicinity.  I have friends in Sydney so a longer stay is nice.  I hope to visit the Hunter Valley, the Blue Mountains, the Jenolan Caves as well as all the key sites in Sydney proper.

–  2nd week of June through June 18th:  Melbourne and, maybe, a short hop to Tasmania (I know, should spend more time there…).

– Then I go to New Zealand where I will spend 11 days visiting:  Christchurch, Franz Josef Glacier, Milford Sound, Te Anau, Queenstown, Auckland, Rotorua, Waitomo, and Taupo.  It was hard deciding whether to focus on one of the two main islands or how to divide my time between them.  Lots of good advice but usually with differing suggestions.  In the end, I read about what there was to see and just chose based on what drew me the most (glacier, fjords, geysers were tops).  I will be taking an independent tour for part of this itinerary.  I had not heard of independent tours before but it fits me very well as I didn’t want to drive on my own (plus it is winter and I don’t know the roads or the likely conditions) and I also didn’t want to be trapped in a guided tour.  The independent tour arranges all transportation and accommodations and some key activities but, in general, they leave you on your own so you can choose what you want to do at the various places you go.  I like that a lot.

I am very excited at seeing friends in Australia and at FINALLY getting to visit Australia and New Zealand!  I know I leave other things unexplored but I will hope I get to return someday to go more off the beaten path and explore other parts of these countries more in depth.

Any recommendations on good places to eat (“hole-in-the-wall” types) or lesser-known but outstanding sightseeing jewels in Sydney, Melbourne, Christchuch, Queenstown or Auckland??

Final Plans for Australia and New Zealand!!

I have reached a great milestone:  I have finalized my travel plans!!  The only details that remain are those that will be finalized once I am in Australia.  As usual, planning the trip, exploring the possibilities, figuring out routing and logistics, etc. are great fun for me.  But that fun has ended and the real fun is about to begin!

I have decided to first visit my friends in Australia since their schedule was better this way.  I will first get to Sydney via LA and Auckland as I decided to fly Air New Zealand.

Air New Zealand logo

(NOT a sponsored blog post! just like their logo!)

I decided on ANZ for price and itinerary.  Since the last bit of my trip is New Zealand, I didn’t feel like trekking back to Australia before heading home (once the trip is over, I will just want to get home!).  I did not pursue United as generally I don’t like it.  I did have enough frequent flyer miles to get there with Delta even first class but they do not start flying there until July and I had to travel in June.  Delta‘s partner airlines didn’t work out to get there on miles which was a big bummer as I had hope to fly Singapore Airlines first class all the way.  (The good news is those miles will take me elsewhere in the future!)

So, back to the itinerary, Sydney first.  After a week or so there, I trek over to Melbourne to visit my other friends.  I am hoping to visit some wineries in the Yarra area.  My Melbourne friends want to make a long weekend trip with me and we are toying with Uluru or Tasmania.  I am hoping for the latter myself as I have read wonderful things about “Tassie”.

From Melbourne, I say goodbye to Australia wishing I had gotten to see Darwin, the Kimberlies and Perth.  I could have spent the next 2 weeks seeing those places but have decided that New Zealand is much higher on my priority list.  This is a hard-to-get-to place in the world for me to get to so I had to go off priorities (much as I like to think I will be able to go back someday).  I arrive in Christchurch, NZ where I signed up for an independent tour of the southern island for about a week.  An independent tour, which is a new concept for me, means they provide transport and accommodations but it is not a guided tour and you are not necessarily traveling with the same people the whole time.  Both of these things appeal to me.  I wish I could have driven around the island but traveling solo, I didn’t feel this time like dealing with everything by myself (though there are self-drive tours that seem pretty good for anyone wanting to drive).

The tour I have opted for will take me through glacier territory, fjord waters, mountain towns, and hopefully wine territory near Blenheim (of Sauvignon Blanc fame!!!).  I decided to spend the majority of the time in the south island though I realize I am forgoing some key sights in the north island.  I will have little time in the north island and mainly in Auckland from where I will depart to head home.

I am so looking forward to this trip!

Planning a Trip to Australia & New Zealand

I find myself with the benefit of extra time where I can make a trip somewhere for 3 or 4 weeks and I have set my sights on Australia and New Zealand.  I have friends in a couple of towns in Australia so it seemed maybe a good time to head down.  Also I have always cringed at trying to visit on 2 week vacation as it is far for me and costly!

The first question is what of all that there is to see should I plan to see and will the amount of time I have be sufficient.

The second question is how that potential list of destinations matches with my friends’ schedules.

Finally, the logistical matters for the solo part of the my trip take center stage for my last question.  For example, I hear NZ is best handled driving but, as I would be there on my own, I don’t feel I want to handle driving.  So I have to figure out what options do I have to get to explore NZ in a different manner.  I am searching through various blogs and websites as well as posting questions on twitter (@ilivetotravel) to see what may be possible.  I am a fan of wines so I have been wondering if tying seeing the country while visiting its wine regions may be a good way to marry both interests.  Are there operators that provide those types of tours and on a short enough itinerary to fit my overall itinerary?

I found a great link that breaks up the two main NZ islands into regions and then provides descriptions of each region with their “must see” attractions.  I am finding it a great way to study where I may want to focus my limited time in NZ.  A week is not enough, I am told, for NZ but my time constraints do not allow much room for more.

In terms of Australia, my visits to Sydney and Melbourne will be the anchor of the trip as I want to see my friends.  However, places like Tasmania and Uluru are high on my list.  I would also love to explore wine country and the Kimberlies and see places like Perth and Darwin.  But there may not be enough time for it all so, in the end, I suspect my final itinerary will depend on what works out best from a scheduling and cost standpoint.

One snag on my plans was that it seems I will not be able to use my Delta/SkyTeam frequent flyer miles to get there.  I had enough accumulated over time for even a first class ticket and I had been saving the miles for this trip.  However, Skyteam does not have many ways to get me down under and the only ways they have (Singapore Airlines and Korean Airlines) do not work for my schedule.  However, I have to say that I found very cheap fares from LA for about $1100 including my travel between NZ and Australia.  By the way, Qantas and Air New Zealand have fantastic features on their websites for planning multi-city itineraries.  Kudos!

I hope my next entry contains more solid details as I am 3 weeks away from my potential departure!

Open to suggestions about what are “must see” destinations or ways to see NZ without driving?

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