Off-the-Beaten-Path Sweden: Industrial Eskilstuna

A year ago, I went to Sweden with the idea of spending a little more time in Stockholm than a one-day cruise ship stop allowed me years before.  I really like Stockholm and its different neighborhoods, its surroundings (water!), and its old town.  But, as part of this short trip, I also felt the urge to explore what lay beyond Stockholm – off the beaten path Sweden, if you will.  What was the countryside like?  What were its smaller towns like?  How was nature inland (versus on the coast)?

So a plan was concocted for a day trip around the countryside, starting and ending in Stockholm while “circumdriving” (I just made that word up) Lake Mälaren.  The only stop we had planned on doing that day would be on the way back to Stockholm:  Uppsala, a charming college town not far from Stockholm.  But we did realize we would have to stop somewhere around lunchtime to eat, and also we realized we may make short stops should we see something interesting.  Both of those combined when we decided to jump off the highway as we drove west of Stockholm on the E-20 highway when we spotted what seemed a large town in the area:  Eskilstuna.

I will be the first to admit that I had never heard of this town.  Not surprisingly for a non-Swede, I suppose.  Eskilstuna’s population is over 67,000 inhabitants as of 2015 (so larger by 2.5 times than Andorra’s capital which I recently visited!).  The history of the town takes it back to medieval times when an English monk named Eskil made the existing tiny town his home; he was killed by pagan Vikings and he is now a saint buried in a monastery in the area.  By now, it is a very industrial town (at some point it was known as “The City of Steel”) but it was not dirty at all, as one pictures towns with heavy industry (picture Pittsburgh in the 1980s, for example).  We passed a Volvo plant of some sort in getting there and other factories / heavy industry sites.

Its main square was pretty and very spacious but, at the time, I did not see any “café” life.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

The main square of Eskilstuna:  large, clean and empty

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

Looking out onto the square

However, we did find a great pizza shop (Redfellas) on the main square after exploring first the pedestrian shopping street in the heart of the town.  Not a quaint or charming street, just a regular shopping street.  I could see Redfellas being very lively at night given its spaciousness and decor; sadly, I was not staying intown overnight.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

The old building where Redfellas is located

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

At Redfellas

The town’s church, Klosters Kyrka, dating from the 1920s, certainly looked a little different than the ones I am used to and that made it interesting but we skipped checking it out as we were wanting to keep moving on our day trip.  The view towards it was graced by a statue celebrating the workers which made for a great foreground to the picture below.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

Looking towards Klosters Kyrka (Church) with the town’s plaza behind me.

Eskilstuna may not be a tourist destination per se but it was an opportunity to see beyond the well-trodden places in Sweden and peek at a “non-descript” (pardon me, Eskilstunians!) town.


Pin to your travel board for off the beaten path places to explore!

Off the beaten path, Eskilstuna Sweden


A Great Day Trip from Stockholm: Uppsala

A long weekend in Stockholm sounded like fun.  And off I went last October with a college friend, John.  While Stockholm was the focus, I have always wanted to see something of ‘rural’ Sweden:  lakes, charming homes, and lots of green.  At least, that is how I envisioned it.  So, once in Sweden, I was eager to get on the road at least for a day of driving around, a day trip from Stockholm. 

As I looked at the map, Uppsala caught my eye:  I knew it was a university town AND it was approximately 1.5 hrs away from Stockholm.  It sounded like a great day trip from Stockholm.

Starting the day trip from Stockholm

The day trip we concocted was not just focused on Uppsala.  After all, when you only have a long weekend to explore, you gotta maximize the exploring, no?  We headed west from Stockholm in the morning on the E-20 highway that runs south of Lake Mälaren.  Our plan was then to round the western end of the lake and then take E-18 highway east.  At some point later, we would leave the E-18 and hook left and north to reach Uppsala on a smaller road.

Arriving in Uppsala after a long day

With such a long day, it was close to getting dark when we arrived in this charming Swedish town.  Still, we arrived early enough to walk around the pedestrian-friendly town center and have some daylight.  In that walking circuit we made up, we visited the university’s grounds, the Cathedral of Saint Erik, and the shopping district. 

Being there in autumn made the streets by the main cathedral and university a lot more charming with the fallen leaves everywhere.  That scene and the beautiful colors of the buildings around made spending time in the town worthwhile.

Sweden, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore
Around the commercial area
Sweden, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore
Charming architecture and building colors
Sweden, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore
Around the university
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Canal lined by yellowing trees
Sweden, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore
Beautiful cobblestone street covered in leaves

Uppsala’s Cathedral

Erik the Holy -or Saint Erik-, patron saint of Sweden, is buried at the cathedral in Uppsala that bears his name.  This was the site where he was killed a long time ago (12th century if you want to know).  The cathedral itself was finished in the 15th century.  It claims to be the largest church building in the Nordic countries but I am not sure if there is some qualifier that I am missing.

Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, cathedral
The Cathedral of Saint Erik
Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, cathedral, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore,
The Cathedral of Saint Erik at night
Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, Erik the Holy, Saint Erik, cathedral
Saint Erik’s tomb
Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, cathedral, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore,
We happened upon a recital rehearsal when we visited; neat and random
Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, cathedral, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore,
Sweden, Uppsala, Domkyrka, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, cathedral
Sweden, Uppsala, cathedral, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore,

Drink, please!  Oh, and food too

We were a tad surprised that a university town did not have an obvious or easy-to-find ‘bar scene.’  We looked around thinking that would be a neat way to feel the vibe of the town.  Perhaps tainted by the U.S. college town experience? 

Probably.  So there is a different ethos there.  Were students -gasp- studying?  Or, it was a holiday week?  Or, something.  Still, we were wondering where to go hang out and grab a bite to eat.  Mind you, a place with some personality.  So, we turned to our smartphones, of course.

Churchill Arms to the rescue

An online app suggested what turned out to be the perfect spot:  the Churchill Arms gastropub.  We sat at the small bar where I ended up teaching the young bartender (from the U.S.) how to make a Manhattan.  Good grief…

After a short while, the loungey chairs (just two of them) by the bar freed up.  We decided to grab them instead of going to one of the regular tables in one of the wood-paneled eating rooms.  Too formal and we just wanted to chill.  Plus, from that vantage point, we could see everyone coming in and out.  Always cool to sit back and watch locals in a country other than one’s. 

Food at the gastropub in Uppsala

For dinner, I enjoyed some mussels (moules marinieres) in a white wine sauce – delicious.  And the mandatory companions to mussels:  French fries and bread to dip in the sauce!

Sweden, Sverige, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, bar, Churchill Arms
Nice collection
Sweden, Sverige, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, bar, Churchill Arms
The small bar at the entrance to Churchill Arms
Sweden, Uppsala, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, travel, explore, Churchill Arms, food, mussels
My moules marinieres and French fries!

After dinner, we headed out back to Stockholm to wrap up a day of semi-aimless driving around and seeing what we came upon.  We had our outbound flight back to the States early the next morning (via Paris) so it was not to be a late night out and about.  Bummer, huh?

Off-the-beaten-path travel scores again

Once again, going off the beaten path proved rewarding.  If you ever visit Sweden (or next time you do), hop over to quiet and charming Uppsala, an easy day trip from Stockholm.  It was beautiful in the fall, I can only imagine how it would be in the summer and spring.  I sure would like to return!

Check out another off-the-beaten-path town we discovered earlier that day southwest of Lake Malaren:  Eskilstuna.


Uppsala, university town Sweden, day trip from Stockholm

Pin this image to your board, the question is which one??  Sweden?  Travel?  Day trip from Stockholm?  Autumn colors?

Around Katarina Church in Stockholm

While I like seeing the main sights of any city I visit, I also enjoy walking around aimlessly and seeing what I discover.  Katarina Church (Katarina Kyrka) in Stockholm (Södermalm) was one of those discoveries.  Perhaps if I had done my research ahead of time, the church and its neighborhood would have ended on a ‘must-see’ list.  But it was a lot neater to run into this neighborhood by sheer luck and wanderlust!

Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7

Church as seen from Gamla Stan

Katarina Church

The church grounds were pretty in the fall colors and in the gray weather I experienced pretty much the entire weekend I was in Stockholm.Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7

Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7

The church was undergoing renovations

Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7

Cornelisparken – good views of Stockholm

I then walked off a side sidestreet on the opposite side of the square from where I had entered it, Mäster Mikaels gata, with quaint homes that ended with a park, Cornelisparken, that offered a great viewpoint that overlooked Gamla Stan and other parts of Stockholm.  I seemed to be on a roll discovering great spots with great views in Stockholm (another was from City Hall)!Mäster Mikaels gata, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7 Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7

Katarina kyrka, Catherine church, Stockholm, Sweden, fall, color, Sodermalm, travel, tourism, photo, Samsung Galaxy, S7, Gamla Stan, Cornelisparken

View towards Gamla Stan

This part of my longer walk was probably my favorite of the whole weekend and I think yielded some of my favorite photos from the trip!

 

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