Day 6 in the Jotunheimen NP Circuit

Well, all good things come to an end and, so, is the final post about my 6-day hike in Jotunheimen National Park: from Memurubu to Gjendesheim.

Now, it is not my final hike in Norway for this trip but it wraps up exploring the beautiful and grandiose Jotunheimen. Jotunheimen is a park I had never heard of before until this trip entered the picture as a potential adventure. Grateful to my friend Troy for introducing me to this jewel of nature in Norway!

Should I stay or should I go?

On day 6 we were not only finishing the hike in Jotunheimen NP, but we were also going to leave the park altogether. We had an option to stay at Gjendesheim (again) that final day in the park but we had places to go! We were going to head to the Valdres valley and the small town of Røn. It did not make sense to get to Gjendesheim to spend a few hours and then drive a few hours the next day before our destination. We opted to make it to Gjendesheim and get on the road. It is not like Gjendesheim was Leirvassbu where I would not have minded an extra night! So the plans were to get to our car (in the long-term parking lot a mile from Gjendesheim) and hit the road.

But, first, let’s talk about leaving Memurubu

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One last look towards the main building of Memurubu

We had planned to leave Memurubu and take the Bessegen route to Gjendesheim, not an easy route but well-known as an epic route. However, the weather forecast called for high winds that day at lake level. Bessegen was both higher up and more exposed to the edges (not quite cliffs) and a wind gust would be a life-endangering situation. So we decided to take the lower level route lake-side. It was maybe not as fun and interesting as Bessegen but, under those conditions, smarter.

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The awesome marmalades at breakfast

A relatively easy trail…

… but the trail did not lack challenges though. Bessegen may be left for homework (i.e., a return trip) but the lake-side route was not just a nicely groomed trail. Nothing is at JNP! The cool thing about Bessegen is that you don’t have to do a circuit to do it as there are ferries to Memurubu so it can be just a day hike for those not wanting to do a longer circuit.

The trail initially had some elevation gain before the trail returned lakeside.

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Elevation gave us one great last view of the lake
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Then the trail went through forested areas and included water crossings and rock beaches before the final approach to Gjendesheim.

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jotunheimen, ilivetotravel, trekking in norway, hiking i norge, norvege, senderismo en noruega, adventure
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jotunheimen, ilivetotravel, trekking in norway, hiking i norge, norvege, senderismo en noruega, adventure

Overall, it was about 6.5 miles. We did it in 4 hours, including stops, the longest one in a rock beach where we had our lunch. By this point, of course, my legs were tired, my feet sore and my Achilles heels letting themselves be known. But, it didn’t really matter. The circuit we had just completed was worth every pain, every sore spot, every chain segment, every early wakeup, etc. Approaching Gjendesheim was a welcome sight but, also, bittersweet as it meant having new experiences around Jotunheimen was coming to an end. At least, on this trip…

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Finished the Jotunheimen Loop!

Missed the start? Go to Day 1 (Gjendesheim to Glittertind)

Or, go back to the prior day: Day 5! (Gjendebu to Memurubu)

Day 3 on the Jotunheimen NP Circuit Hike

After enjoying a day off and the scenery around Spiterstulen, the time came to leave this great setting to push forward on the circuit. Next stop: Leirvassbu. I had not really envisioned what this trail would entail but, spoiler alert, after completing the Norway trip, this trail ranked #1 in my list.

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Sunset from Leirvassbu – stunning

Varied landscape and terrain

We left the lodge at the usual time: 8:30 AM. We got to the Leirvassbu lodge around 3:40 PM, so just over 7 hrs for a ~12-mile hike.

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Green = start; Black = end

There may not be great differences in the possible terrain features from one trail to the next but this one seemed kindest of all with less brutal rock crossings, fewer steep inclines, and almost no significant descents.

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Jotunheimen, Leirvassbu, lodge, turisthytte, Norge, hiking, trekking, Norway, water crossing
Bridge #1
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Bridge #2 – only one handrail
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Ignore TLC – go chase waterfalls!

We took a side hike off the main trail following a long waterfall that cascaded down over a mile or so. It was very peaceful and simply beautiful. About a mile into tracking it, we turned around and resumed the main trail to Leirvassbu.

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Up to the lake “district”

The terrain was gentle along the river that ran past Spiterstulen and that ran sort of parallel to the trail for a good bit. At some point, we moved away from it and started an ascent to what became a plateau of lakes. We would walk along these lakes all the way until getting to Leirvassbu.

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Jotunheimen, Leirvassbu, lodge, turisthytte, Norge, hiking, trekking, Norway

The backdrop to the lakes was nothing short of stunning!

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Jotunheimen, Leirvassbu, lodge, turisthytte, Norge, hiking, trekking, Norway
Spotted the lodge! Always a happy moment.

No matter how cool the trail… a beer always follows!

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Leirvassbu: my favorite lodge for sure!

Not only is this trail my favorite but Leirvassbu was my favorite lodge too. The room was spartan but adequate. We had a room with a private bathroom and it was severely dated (like 1960s).

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Lodge grounds
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My neighbors downstairs
Jotunheimen, Leirvassbu, lodge, turisthytte, Norge, hiking, trekking, Norway

But it was all functional. However, I really liked the setting of the lodge, the common spaces (lounge and dining room), and – best of all – the bar and the food!

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The highlight of the meal was the 18-hour, slow-cooked veal main dish. Wow – it was restaurant caliber. I was not expecting that high quality cuisine in a national park lodge.

Leirvassbu has the added benefit of being on a private road so you don’t have to hike miles if you want to visit it.

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The end of another day: the boots get a rest!

Check out Day 2 (Glitterheim to Spiterstulen)

Or, read on to Day 4 (Leirvassbu to Gjendebu)

Day 2 on the Jotunheimen NP Circuit Hike

Having survived the first day of a 6-hike circuit – and the longest hike of the 6 -, it was time to get going on Day 2 for the next challenge: getting to Spiterstulen by climbing Glittertind mountain (vs. skirting it and going around it).

Tallest mountains in Norway and northern Europe

Glittertind is not only the second tallest mountain in Norway but in all of northern Europe. Glittertind stands at 2,452 m / 8,045 ft. The tallest mountain is nearby: Galdhøpiggen. It stands a modest 17 m / 56 ft taller than Glittertind. The height of these mountains is a little higher if you include the glaciers atop. For example, Glittertind, back in 2008, stood at 2,465 m counting the glacier.

Heading up Glittertind

We started the morning early with breakfast at 7:30AM and a departure from Glitterheim at 8:40AM. Though Glittertind stands at 2,452 m, Glitterheim itself is location at around 1,400 M above sea level. So we sort of had a head start in terms of the climb. Small mercies!

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Leaving Glitterheim behind

The climb to the summit was about 3.8 miles. The first mile would ascend 425 ft. The second mile would go another 500 ft. Finally, the third mile would go another 450 ft. The final bit to the top would take us up approximately another 300 ft. I cannot recall for certain but it feels the last 1.5 mile was a pure rock walk. Steep and painfully slow to navigate stepping over all those rocks

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Norway may be also called Rocks ‘R Us
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Can you still spot me in the rock field? Fun times

Atop Glittertind and all that snow

Within the last hour of the climb, it started to snow. Visibility decreased but we could still see where we were and where we were headed.

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Can you see me now?
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I could still see my friend (red oval above) so all was good.

Good thing because right by the summit there was a cliff we could not see… (see image below from AllTrails). Good thing that snowpack at the top was rock solid!

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This screenshot right after the summit
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At THE summit

Descending not always fun and games

Once we were done resting at the summit, we began the descent. For a little bit, we were still on the glacier / snowpack. We did not have any special attachments on our hiking boots. I just made sure I stepped where someone else had stepped before me, hoping the snow had compacted all it was going to compact thanks to the prior person. Oh, and that I was not going to step on snow that was sitting on top of a crevice or gap of some sort!

You can visualize in this AllTrails’ trail preview how sharp a descent this was (it began around mile 4.1, soon after leaving the summit ridge.

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What it looked like in real life

Eventually, after left the summit ridge, the terrain was free of snow and the snow stopped falling. Back to our normal steep-descent-with-lots-of-rocks-and-scree. It was the usual very focused walk to avoid a nasty and painful fall.

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Just too awe-inspiring to not post another photo!
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The challenging, steep descent from Glittertind is over

After the steep descent, we entered the area that you see in the picture above. We followed a stream for a bit on still-rocky terrain for a bit.

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The descent is over!!
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We then went up a little bit and rounded some mountain to a trail that would eventually parallel the private road leading to Spiterstulen. I so badly wanted to just get to that road and walk on a flat, smooth surface! But, it was not to be until the very end, close up to Spiterstulen. To add insult to injury, after we got on the road and approached the lodge, we had a slight uphill. Really…. 🙂

Regardless, my buddy and I were very happy hikers by the time we got to Spiterstulen!

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How to end a hard hike

Thankfully, Spiterstulen was ready for us! From a refreshing cold beer to a great meal to a great space in the room and the large lounging room – Spiterstulen was great.

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Spiterstulen from the outside
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Our room was actually in a cabin and we enjoyed a private bathroom (with heated floor!), a small living room area and a great view from the room’s window. Perfect spot to chill and re-charge.

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The meal started with salmon on a piece of bread (that could have been the entrée!). Then Norwegian meatballs with veggies, chased by diced watermelon topped with vanilla ice cream. All good!

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Norway’s beauty is infinite!

I am writing all this post-facto, a couple of weeks after returning home. The majesty of the landscapes of Norway are, maybe not unique, but definitely spectacular. Just a view like below, after a nice meal and a beer (or two), are enough to make one be in awe of God’s creation…

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Check out Day 1 (Gjendesheim to Glitterheim)

Or, read on to Day 3 (Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu)

Day 1 on the Jotunheimen NP Circuit Hike

Day 1 of the 6-day circuit hike in Jotunheimen National Park began in the Gjendesheim “turisthytte”, where we had arrived the prior day to get an early start on day 1. “Hytte” means cabin in Norwegian and these are the lodgings anyone doing the park will be staying at – unless you camp. I will use “lodge” going forward though not every place we stayed felt “lodgy”. Most, but not all, lodges are run by “DNT” (Den Norske Turistforening), an association that maintains runs trails and cabins in Norway (thank you!).

In any case here is how day 1 of my circuit hike in Jotunheimen went!

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Red “T”s mark the way!

Our approach to Jotunheimen National Park

As I mentioned in my Jotunheimen NP hike overview post, Gjendesheim became the logical starting point for our hike. It was right off route 51 and offered easy access to hiking trails and long-term parking.

I might add that it is a good starting point for those only wanting to do a 1- or 2-day hike as it has a ferry to two other lodges on the Lake Gjende from which one can hike back to Gjendesheim (or, the reverse, hike to the one or both of the lodges and then just return by ferry). So a good option for those not wanting to do the circuit but still see amazing landscapes.

Our route on the trail

We approached Gjendesheim from the north having started our drive at Bergen. Of course, we could have come from the south but we were going to do that region after the Jotunheimen hike so we wanted to explore other territory. For example, this allowed us to visit Lom, cruise the Geirangerfjord and stay at Geiranger with its beautiful setting hillside facing the fjord.

Starting the Jotunheimen NP hike at Gjendesheim

We arrived in Gjendesheim the night before. Our car was left at the long-term parking with anything we didn’t need for the next 7 days. The lodge, right by the ferry dock, consists of a couple of main buildings and a couple smaller ones.

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The main building

We stayed in the second largest building, basically a dormitory, where we shared a room with a bunk bed and nothing else. Toilets and showers were shared by everyone. The main building is where the dining room, common living space, and reception were located. It also may have had rooms but I did not explore. That building had toilets and showers in the basement so I assume it did have rooms upstairs.

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The common living space was small but offered great views of Lake Gjende as the sun set.

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Dinner started with a delicious pumpkin soup and the main was a lamb stew that was also pretty good (in retrospection, there were no bad meals on the circuit and a couple of spectacular ones later in the circuit). Dessert was rhubarb-something, not sure how to describe it! It is worth noting that while there is no menu to order from – you eat what is served – lodges are very accommodating to vegan/vegetarian diets.

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Hiking from Gjendesheim to Glittenheim – 1st half

Alright, so on to the actual hike for the day! Starting a circuit hike pretty cold with a 22.5 km/14 mi route was a bit intimidating. Legs would not be yet fully awake, technique for harder terrain not fresh, etc. We started at 8:30AM taking the trailhead right across from the cabin. The trail started with a 600 ft elevation gain in the first mile so definitely not the easiest of starts. It was not a bad start though. It was good to be finally on the circuit! That first mile took us 46 mins.

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From the 1st mile looking down at Lake Gjende and the ferry dock

The second mile was kinder only gaining about 400 ft. And the third less about 275 ft. So it was an aggressive start that quickly mellowed. By mile 5, our average was 33 mins/mi so we clearly gained speed as the elevation gain eased. That was good as not only I was coming in “cold” (being the first day of the hike) but also first day with the 18-lb backpack on me.

In this segment we passed the end of Lake Bessvatnet and then hit Lake Russvatnet which we would alongside for about 1.5 miles (from mile 4.8 to 6.4) before heading up to reach high mountain terrain after mile 7.5.

Hiking from Gjendesheim to Glittenheim – 2nd half

So the second half of the hike began! From mile 7.5 to mile 11 was my favorite stretch of this day. I just really like wide open, high mountain terrain, allowing the eye to see far. Of course, it helped that uphills were few and smaller. We saw a handful of hikers but that was about it; that was more than we saw in the first half!

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Nice part of the trail

The final 3 miles were a mix of flat and downhill. The approach to Glittenheim, for someone who had already walked 12 miles or so, felt brutal: the cabin is right across from you but you can’t cross the water/river there -> you have to walk alongside it for a bit before the bridge to cross it. It felt eternal (it wasn’t) due to being tired and ready to get the boots and backpack off!

How difficult was the terrain from Gjendesheim to Glitterheim?

It is worth mentioning that there were definitely challenging parts to this trail. Plenty of water and mud due to recent rains requiring water crossings, stepping over stones to avoid walking in the water.

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This IS the trail! A common occurrence

This required minding not only finding the next stone to step on but also ensuring not slipping or that the stone would move once you stepped on it. Muddy spots were handled similarly but I hated those more. There were plenty of these and rock fields to maneuver over (not around!). It took focus and, at the end of the day, my neck and shoulders were very stiff and needing a massage.

Rock field!
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Rocks everywhere – fun challenge but tiring!

The trail also included 3 bridges got larger water crossings, including the one at the end.

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One of the bridges on the trail

And the temperature?

My hike was in late August/early September. Skies that day were a little overcast. Temperature-wise, though I started with a jacket, eventually I took it off and my wool baselayer shirt was sufficient. I did wear glove liners; it wasn’t cold enough for real gloves but the liners provided just the right amount of protection against the cold and the wind, while allowing to use fingers more normally. Other than that, nothing of note to report.

The Glitterheim lodge

I couldn’t have been more elated to arrive at Glittenheim. Though not the best of the lodges, it was heaven after a day 1 of 14 miles! There were two large buildings, much as at Gjendesheim.

This time we stayed in the main building on the second story. Our room again was a bunk bed room with no toilet or shower. The hallway did have a bathroom sink which helped with brushing teeth and filling water bottles. The showers and the toilets, though, were in the basement. In the middle of the night, going down two floors, with very sore knees after a 14-mile hike, using a spiral staircase while half asleep, was not my idea of fun. On top of that, lights would not turn on downstairs as, I guess, generators were turned off. I was thankful I had taken my phone for no good reason – the flashlight feature came in handy!

The common living area was nice with a massive fireplace and great views. The dining room, as usual, was communal tables which is nice to meet some other folks, hear where they are from, hear their hiking plans, etc. That night we sat with a young couple from Israel (whom we would see just about at every lodge during the circuit) and another young couple from the Ukraine (living in Poland).

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Glittenheim common spaces

Dinner was buffet-style. The first dish was spinach soup and the entrée a beef stew with potatoes as the side. (If you have not gotten this from describing the food at both lodges… there is no menu. You eat of what is being served!) The dessert was very interesting. It was some form of rhubarb jelly over which one poured something akin to milk. I was hesitant at first but found it delicious!

After dinner we enjoyed beers at the common living space before going upstairs to ready things for the next day and get some good, well-earned rest!

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A beautiful route

On to Day 2 – Glittenheim to Spiterstulen via Glittentind!

Or, go to read the overview of the circuit at Jotunheimen NP.

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Hiking to the Best Views of the Dolomites: Lagazuoi

After spending a great night at Rifugio Kostner, who could be blamed for not wanting to leave such a cool spot? But, that is the trekking life, not staying in one spot.

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Red arrow points to our destination: Lagazuoi

Destination: Lagazuoi

So off we went to get to Lagazuoi, a mountain known as much for WW I history as for its beautiful setting. Lagazuoi sits at 9,301 ft – 2,835m, a short 18 kms from Cortina d’Ampezzo. The mountain had many tunnels dug by both sides (Italians and Austrians) as a way to protect themselves and/or try to surprise the opponent. All this land was part of the Austrian Empire until Italy attacked it early in WW I. You can read a little more about it here.

Starting the hike; bye Pordoi

We began the day with a great breakfast as is to be expected in these mountain rifugios (photo on my prior day’s post). Then, for the sake of getting to our next rifugio before sunset, took a little shortcut to come down from Pordoi: we took the chair lift down. Personally, saving a downhill is kindness to my knees so no complaints. And, like the day before, an easy start to a long day is nice.

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Headed up to the chair lift.
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One final look back at R. Kostner (middle left)

A different trail ahead

The start of the actual hike was very different than the rocky / pebbly trails of the prior day. I don’t know the technical terms for the landscape but low grasses and lots of green ruled the start of the day.

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Beautiful trails
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Time for a break and absorb the views!

Many spots offered a view back to Pordoi (and Rifugio Kostner, if I zoom into the photo). It is a neat way to see where we’d been. Later, we would be offered another, even better viewpoint to watch the sun set.

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R. Kostner marked by the red circle

OK, some rocks

We still encountered rocky terrain but no massive downhill covered with scree. But the paths, hugging the rock walls, were simply enjoyable.

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dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking,
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking,
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A few steps and rope were involved here but not too technical

Approaching Lagazuoi Mountain

We concluded the hike by approaching the Funivia Lagazuoi which would take us to the feet of our next lodging: Rifugio Lagazuoi.

My feet were pretty beat and I was in need of taking my boots off. When we reached the top, we still had a steep hill to climb but, guess what? That just made the big beer I got that much more savory!

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The view down from the ride; and the rifugio almost at hand…

Majestic views of the Dolomites

Lagazuoi also offered an outdoor deck with majestic views. This rifugio was bigger than the last one and the one from day 1. Many more rooms, a larger deck, and a much larger dining area. Our floor only had 2 showers for a large number of rooms so we took a number and just let each other know when their number was getting close to not lose the spot. Thankfully, no lack of hot water!

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Part of the deck; my room was one of those balconies
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We would reach the top of the mountain on the right to watch the sun set

Just a little more hiking at sunset

But the one thing that set this rifugio aside was fantastic vantage point to watch the sunset a short up-hill walk away. The sun would set over the Pordoi massif where we had hiked and stayed the day/night before.

dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
Looking back to the rifugio on the way to the spot
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
And now further away – what a setting!!!
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
At the top – what a beautiful spot
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
The cross and the background made for a great photo!
And now posing the in the other direction! I look tired…
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, clouds, cloudporn,
This photo almost looks eerie… what do you see? I see an old woman’s head & hair
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, sky, skyporn, yellow sky
A fellow trekker just soaking it all in…
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset

It was a peaceful place and it was well worth the walk up to the spot, despite tired feet. I am sure you will agree after seeing the sunset pics.

Oh, wait, but the food…

Yes, the food was really good. The double-carb first plate was absolutely perfect. The main dish was a little less impressive but the dessert made up for it!

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First dish
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, food, main entree
The main entree
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Perfect picture to end this post!

Stay tuned for the final posts about this trek in the Dolomites!

Challenge in the Dolomites: Hiking the Rosengarten

My first day of hiking presented a neat challenge in the Dolomites taking us from Carezza / Karersee to Rifugio Passo Principe (Grasleitenpasshütte). There we would spend the night after traversing the iconic Rosengarten Massif, near Bolzano, Italy. The massif contains several peaks with its highest elevation being at 9,849 ft (3,002 m).

The trek started with our early AM departure from Trento, where we had spent a few days performing service projects with Trekking for Kids, to Carezza / Karersee where we would catch a ski lift (the Paolina lift) to the start of our trail.

Hiking route in the Rosengarten

The trails we followed were: 539 (from exiting the lift to the Christomannos Monument) to 549 (to Rifugo di Vael) to 541 (to Rifugio Vajolet) and then, finally, to trail 584 on to Rifugio Principe at Passo Principe. I could not show it as well in one single map so here I broke up the day’s hike into two maps.

Started on the lift on the bottom left and made our way upwards…
Starting from the bottom we ended at the top of the blue line

Where to stay: rifugios!

By the way, rifugios are mountain inns or lodges that offer basic accommodations and can provide dinner and breakfast for an additional cost – which I may add, is well worth it.

Some rifugios offer double rooms, some offer group rooms, and some offer both. Also, they may offer shower facilities with some of the places having very basic ones and charging a euro for a few minutes for their use, and some having very nice rooms and bathrooms.

However basic they can be (or not), I have to say all my meals were phenomenal and I will share those along the way in these posts!

Rifugio Principe, Passo Principe, lodging in the Dolomites
Dining area is cozy – and now Covid-ready
speck, german food, rifugio food
My dinner: speck with fried eggs on a bed of potatoes!

At Rifugio Principe (re-built/renovated around 2008), our group of 15 split into two group rooms of eight people each. The setup was not the typical bunk beds but four mattresses laid side-by-side: one set on the floor and one set above those. It was hard to sleep with so many people around but a little harder being so close to each other. Our room was the “outside” room which was supposed to be colder but was actually warm enough (they provide you some serious blankets but I actually did not use them and, instead, just used the sleeping bag liner I had brought with me and warm clothing).

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Facing the “outside” room from the sun deck

The landscape & views around the Rosengarten Massif

Trekking Dolomites, chair lift in Italy
It starts with a chair lift!
Rosengarten, hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy
The best shot I have of the Rosengarten has me semi-posing…
Christomannos Monument, hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
The Christomannos Monument
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Beautiful trails; flat for this little stretch…

Uphill and Downhill ‘R Us

hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Slight ascent but still beautiful!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Sometimes the trails were the ones below and others up by the peaks!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
The trails got steep and rocky at places – massive uphills on this day!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Always good to hike with friends! I think these were The Beatles
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
And those massive uphills became massive downhills…
This must be after conquering an uphill due to my smile!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
One serious downhill (but no scree on this one, mercifully)
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
And back on up. You get the drift.
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Despite the uphill ahead, the view was spectacular!

Let’s get technical

This day did offer a surprise: needing to cross a small section via steel cable. While it looked scarier than it actually was, I still paid attention to where every one of my 4 extremities was at every moment!

The ladders or cables were pretty new and sturdy. Some of the fighting in World War I took place around the Dolomites and, back then, cruder ladders and cables were used by the soldiers to move around – grateful things have improved since then (and are more peaceful!).

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From the top: Going down the rope-assisted path
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
From the middle: The steel cable was well anchored and the “rope” pretty thick
From the bottom: The drop was not too big – but glad no one had a mis-step!

A mirage or our rifugio?

Well, along the way, it is not uncommon to pass rifugios which are not our destination. Normally OK as it means we are taking a break. But not always… Sometimes you pass them like passing ships at sea… After a long, long climb, the rifugio on the photo below would have been a GREAT stop. However, and thankfully unbeknownst to me, we had a lot longer to go so a leisurely stop would have place our arrival at our rifugio at dark… So on we went with more uphill terrain as you can appreciate from the picture… No matter how tired I got, the view was always magnificent!

hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
Rifugio Vajolet
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
This was the uphill BEFORE that rifugio we didn’t stop at 🙂

End of day 1 hike at Rifugio Principe

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This one was OUR rifugio for the night!! Happy to arrive! (Photo credit: K. Sundin)

We covered around 7.5 miles after a mid-morning start and around 6 hours of hiking. The group took a little longer than expected, likely the change in altitude from where we had woken up (Trento, at slightly more than 600 ft elevation) to where we ended (at around 8,600 ft). But, I for one was ecstatic about finishing what was a hard last 2 hours of that day’s hike!


Read about day 2, its tricky start and getting to the Sassolungo!

Gear for Climbing Kilimanjaro | Clothing

Planning my hike of Mount Kilimanjaro and the subsequent safari (check out my visit to Serengeti) in Tanzania was not an easy task.  From every angle, it felt daunting.  How to train, what clothing I would need, what items I needed to bring, what constraints we had with bag weight, and on and on.  It is not easy to sift through all the considerations on the gear for climbing Kilimanjaro, especially the clothing.  Some good work is required!

Research is key in planning your gear for climbing Kilimanjaro

Good research was key and I figured that would be the case from the get-go.  That research took many forms.  Talking to people who have hiked Kili.  Reading blogs or websites about hiking it.  Talking to the great folks at REI. And working through the list and advice given to me by the trek organizer (Trekking for Kids) – which was outstanding.  In the end, I still had many decisions to make on what felt could be important things to add to my packing list for hiking Kilimanjaro and the subsequent safari.  Fortunately, I was well armed with information and advice.

This post is geared to those contemplating climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Or perhaps those just interested in reading about what people wear when they climb Kilimanjaro!  In any case, reaching Kilimanjaro’s peak, Uhuru Peak, is an adventure that requires both cold and hot weather gear. This is so because the mountain has just about every climate zone possible in its 19,340 ft.

I will attempt, as an amateur, to share over a couple of posts what made it to my packing list and how it helped.  This post will focus on clothing (I share in a separate post the key non-clothing items to bring – and why!).  If you are reading this and planning a similar trek, please feel free to leave any questions as comments and I will reply and try to help.  In addition, should you have other suggested items or even better suggestions than mine, please share!  There are more ways to skin a cat than one!

Some details about my gear recommendations

Before I move on to my recommendations for the clothing packing list, a few key items to note:

  • I went on safari after the hike concluded (I highly recommend this!  You are ALREADY there!) so I also include in my packing list things needed for the safari which is mostly regular stuff but just for warm weather.
  • Kili has multiple climate zones ranging from hot to extreme cold – this requires understanding how much of what to bring and your own preferences.
  • I am not laying out all the options possible, especially in clothing, as this post would be five times long and no one would read it, but will share what all the advice led me to choose – happy to answer any questions you may have.
  • I did write about my 7 top items to take on this hike.  It was a high-level view of the question and written before I went on the trip (whereas this one was written with the first-hand knowledge of having completed the trip).  This post will get into more details.

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Pin it and dream of Kili!

Clothing – Lower Body

Let’s take it from the bottom of the body upwards.

  • Hiking boots – Get good hiking boots AND do your practice hikes using them so you break them in well.  Otherwise you may suffer more during the hike, including dreadful blisters.  Some folks opted for shoes that were more like hiking shoes.  However, I prefer the safety of the ankle support since I am bound to get sloppy when tired.  Sloppiness raises the risk of twisting my ankle and ruining the rest of the hike.  The following are a couple of boots that read well from the product descriptions.  Mine were REI waterproof hiking boots from a long-time ago so no image at Amazon for them.  Study these and their features, and keep in mind that waterproof and comfort reign supreme in terms of choosing boots. Regardless of where you purchase them, make sure you know whether you can try them out and return them if you, once you have tried them out, decide they are not for you.  That’s a great way to be sure to have the right footwear.  Your footwear will be your key ally those days of being on your feet.  (The two shown here represent two different price points to contrast the options.)

Sample 1Merrell Men’s Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot

Sample 2Columbia Men’s North Plains Ii Waterproof Mid Hiking Boot

  • Gaiters – These items help keep mud and scree from doing a number on you by getting into your footwear and becoming a major nuisance.  You will need gaiters during the summit night climb for sure and, more than likely, on the first day if it has rained recently (it had not when we got started, so I did not need them that day).  You do not really need knee-high ones in my opinion; something to cover the possible gap between the bottom of your pants and the top of your boots is sufficient for the one or two times you will use them.  I would say not the most critical of the items but nice to have.
  • Socks – The socks needed for the hike and the ones needed for the safari were of very different kinds.  For the latter, you may not need to be told what to get (anything that helps keep the foot dry is always better than plain cotton but you won’t die if you wear cotton ones; just be more sweaty).  But for the hike, I highly recommend you use a liner to wick moisture away from your feet and then woolen socks over them.  Wetness is a contributing factor (not the main one perhaps) to blisters.  For summit night or other colder days, you will be well advised to have a pair of VERY thick woolen socks.  I was still a little cold in my feet even with the sturdiest of these on summit night – the part of it that I had any awareness…  I understand that our summit night was not the coldest night possible by a bit so, if it can be colder and I was cold with very thick woolen socks, I hate to know how bad it can feel on my feet!
  • Pants
    • A rainproof outer shell was a must to avoid getting soaked if it rained.  However, this outer layer does not need to keep you warm (I used under-layers to handle the cold).  The outer shell is about rain and, also, wind.  I got a hard shell (you can get a soft shell instead if you want).  A key feature I found most helpful are the side long zippers (ankle to hip) that enable you to very quickly put them on (as in, when rain starts all of a sudden…) – a breeze!  Bottom line on these:  windproof and waterproof.
    • When I was not using the outer shell (which was most of the time), I just used my hiking pants as the exterior layer.  I would highly recommend zip-off (convertible) hiking pants for quick adaptability:  if it gets too hot during the day, you don’t have the “do-I-want-to-go-through-the-hassle-of-taking-off-my-boots-to-change-into-shorts?”-type of dilemma…  But it also saved packing both long pants and shorts 🙂  Read through all the details of these and others you may find (all sorts of price points!).  The convertible hiking pants shown don’t need to be anything fancy:  comfortable and with the amount of pockets you feel you want in the right places (and with buttons, Velcro or zippers on them per your preferences).  Basic worked fine for me!

     

Sample Hiking PantsColumbia Boy’s Silver Ridge III Convertible Pants
Sample Outer ShellMarmot Men’s PreCip Full Zip Pant Shell

  • Base layer for the legs – Base layers (long leggings) made from merino wool (the best) are important to stay warm.  This layer, given the material, will also keep odors from building up.  This characteristic makes them re-usable for more than one day. Added benefit:  cut down on what needs to be carried on the flights to/from Africa and by the porters.  You can use polypropylene for this layer but I heard merino wool just performs better.  On summit day, you may need two layers of base layer.  I wore two under the hiking pants and then the hard shell on the outside.  Before the trip, I was consistently told that silk is about the best material to help retain warmth next to the skin.  I was surprised when I heard that.  I just happened to have this pair of silk leggings but, once on Tanzania, our lead guide told me to use the two merino layers I had instead of the silk pair and one merino pair.  It worked well enough for me on summit night!
  • Shorts for safari – I wore shorts during the safari (the zip-off hiking pants and an extra pair) but I also did wear my full hiking pants to better protect me from the sun (and bugs, I suppose).  Of course, shorts will also be things you wear in the evening or when exploring towns.

Clothing – Upper Body

  • Base layer– The upper body layering approach is much like the lower body’s.  I used base layers for the colder days – again merino wool.  (Usually one, but two on summit night!)  For lower altitudes, a regular long sleeve CoolMax type of shirt.  As I went up and things got colder, a wool “close-to-the-skin” layer under the CoolMax worked well.  Wool is ideal for skin-contact as it wicks moisture from your skin preventing many things (one of them: smells!).  I show one example below but there are tons from many brands that fit the needs – and varying budgets 😉  Bottom line: no cotton!

Sampletasc Performance Men’s Elevation Ultrafine Soft Merino Lightweight Long Sleeve Shirt

  • Mid layer – I got a merino wool mid-layer to have for the evenings at camps lower than base camp. On summit night, this layer would separate the skin-hugging base layers and the outer layers I will mention next. Tasc‘s Elevation line (of which I show a base layer item above) also has a 1/4 zip hoodie jacket that also combines merino wool with their signature bamboo fiber which may be a great item.  I didn’t have one with a hoodie so I had to wear the regular ski hat if I was cold enough at camp at night. By the way, I am a fan of Tasc‘s regular bamboo fabric t-shirts so I am curious how this one would work.  The Icebreaker item I show below, has the power of one of the best-known and valued brands in terms of quality of merino wool. Normally that means a higher price point.  But this one seems quite reasonable.  Search around when you click through below as they have other versions of the same type of item with some range in price point.  The SmartWool brand, in my short years of serious hiking, has proven to be a good and reliable one.  So theirs is worth reading more about when selecting a mid layer top.  Be wary of items that will themselves as having wool.  A few years ago I clicked on one and it was mostly polyester and only 11% wool.  Always read the product details!!  Note:  An alternative could be a fleece jacket.  There are pros and cons to wool vs. fleece.  One of the main difference is how each performs in keeping you warm when wet (wool is better) and how quickly they dry (fleece is better).  Since I knew I would have the right layers to keep rain off me, then wool was a no-brainer for me.

Sample Mid Layer 1Icebreaker Merino Descender Long Sleeve 1/2 Zip
Sample Mid Layer 2Smartwool Men’s NTS Mid 250 Full Zip T

    • Outer layers –  On the trek, I had an outer hard shell for rain and wind.  I also carried a synthetic down jacket which was great because it was very compact when packed.  I used the latter in the evenings while at camp on cold nights, And, of course, on summit night.  My outer shell was an Arcteryx jacket very much like the one below. Arcteryx is not a cheap brand (I hunted the jacket until I found it on a great sale!) but reading through the item I show below will give you an idea of the features to look for.  Best I can tell, this one is pretty similar from top to bottom to the one I had (except mine was orange).  To keep in mind for summit night:  I used two merino wool base layers, the merino wool light jacket, the hard shell (for wind, not rain), and the synthetic down jacket – which I was not wearing at the beginning of the ascent but which I wore during breaks and once it got too cold even while moving.  It important to plan these well because summit night will be COLD.

Sample Outer ShellArcteryx Alpha SL Jacket

  • Shirts for safari – I had quick-dry short sleeve shirts that also had side vents – very comfortable in warm weather and preventing odors from building up…
  • Head- and neck- gear –  I used different items to cover my head from the cold and from the sun – both very important.  A typical sun hat to protect against the sun (with a rim) was a very good idea.  A skull cap was one of the items I used in cold weather.  In very windy or in rainy conditions, the hood from the hard shell helped a good deal.  I also had a buff which I used when the skull cap seemed like a little much.  In fact, the buff served many purposes, like loosely hanging around my neck to avoid burning up when in the sun.  I also used it to cover my mouth and nose when it got dusty on the trail or in the safari.  Finally, I brought a balaclava for summit night.  It would offer lots of protection with only a small space open to look out.  I could also just use it around my neck (would keep it warmer than the buff would).  So quite a few options!
  • Outer gloves –  You are going to want some extreme gloves! The gloves should be waterproof because you don’t want gloves getting wet where it is cold.  And some good heavy duty insulation (e.g., PrimaLoft). You will still need liners underneath (you would think an extreme glove would be enough…).  My fingertips were still a little cold on summit night even with the liners.  But that eventually passed as I entered “the zone” (read how summit night unfolded)  You also need to decide on the type: mitt or separate-fingers. For that outer layer of gloves, I chose mitt. Plus:  less “surface” exposed to the outside, so keeps more warmth around your fingers. Minus: Lower usability of your fingers since they cannot move independently.  However, the rationale for mitts was that most of the time, I would be holding hiking poles in my hands during the ascent.  For that, the mitt grip worked. Once I wanted to reach for tissues or take a photo, yes, I would have to take the mitts off but that was not a big deal. Even fingered style gloves may have been too thick for some of these motions.
  • Liners – I only used the extreme gloves summit night but the liners I used a lot on the days and evenings prior to summit night.  Maybe bring two pairs of liners of different thicknesses, or one pair of liners and one pair of lighter gloves.  The Grabber hand warmer thingies that generate some heat can be helpful though they do not always seem to generate the same level of heat at high altitude.  Nevertheless, any heat helps so you may want to bring some.

Clothing – sleep time

OK, do I really think you need help with this?  No and yes.  No, because sleep wear is such a personal comfort thing.  But yes because part of it is slightly counter-intuitive.

When you are sleeping in the super-cold weather sleeping bag at night at the higher altitudes and on colder nights, the less you wear, THE BETTER.  No, no, nothing kinky about that statement.  Simply the interior of the super-cold weather sleeping bag will make you feel your own body heat warming you as it leaves your body.  So the more clothing you wear, the less your body heat will work with the sleeping bag to keep you warm.

Other than that, keep the jackets, pants, etc. close to the sleeping bag.  Because when you wake up in the middle of the night to relieve yourself (and, trust me, you WILL if you are taking Diamox), you will need to put those on because you will not be able to go outside in your “sleepwear”!

ilivetotravel Shira Camp with Mt. Kilimanjaro Olympus camera

A happy if tired hiker by his tent and the roof of Africa!  Wearing the merino wool mid layer and the synthetic down jacket.

Can I help you any more with planning your packing list?

So, this is the run-down of the clothing items I’d include in any packing list for a hike of Kilimanjaro.  The items shared here are the things I obtained and used on the hike (and on the subsequent safari).  I have to say my planning paid off.  These items served me very well.  Others may have different additional suggestions on what to add to the list of things to bring to hike Kili.  I hope they will share those here!

Finally, I hope if you were not considering hiking Kili or were uncertain, check out my other posts on the topic (see below) and know that it is fairly attainable with good training and preparation!

Disclosure:  I am not being paid or in any way compensated by the brands whose wares I discuss in this post.  While I would love to sample their products and review them, that is not the case in this post.  I just want to show good samples of the types of items I’d consider.

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Other related posts that you may want to check out!

 

How Hard Is It to Climb Kilimanjaro?

A few years ago I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa by virtue of being the tallest mountain thereI have written about how I prepared, what I wore for the climb, and how each day was from day 1 to reaching Uhuru Peak (Kili’s summit) to coming down the mountain.  However, one of the things I have not written about directly is one of the questions I commonly get asked:  “how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro?”

I get the question directly but I also it in a different way:  when people look at me like I did an almost impossible feat.  I get that it is not something most people do hence why it is a feat of a kind. But to me there are crazier and/or harder things (it is all relative, isn’t it??).  So I wanted to share a little of my perspective on how hard it is to climb Kili.

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The first time I saw Kili outside of the Honey Badger Lodge – such an amazing mountain!

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A photo shared in my earlier post showing what I took with me (for the climb and subsequent safari)

A bucket list item that never was:  Kilimanjaro

I never planned or thought of climbing Kilimanjaro.  It had never occurred to me even as a fleeting thought.  Nowhere in the radar.  I had barely heard or read of people who had done it.  Nor was I a big hiker to begin with (I had never slept in a tent until my first night on Kili!).  My first multi-day hike ever had been the year before I climbed Kili when I hiked four days in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania with Trekking for Kids (TFK).  This all changed one night at a fundraiser for TFK a few months later.

At this event, folks started egging me on to join them in a few months later on the climb Kilimanjaro with TFK.  I considered the whole idea preposterous. I felt tremendously ill-suited for something so physically demanding.  “Climbing Kilimanjaro is too hard,” I thought.  While I exercise regularly and consider myself to be generally fit, I was not running half marathons (had done it once a dozen years before) nor doing bootcamps a few days a week nor anything of the like.

Climbing Kilimanjaro was for the super athletes of the world.  I was far from being that though I knew I was in slightly better shape than the average person.  But, a lot of cajoling, elbowing, and a couple (or 4) glasses of wine later, I succumbed to friendly group pressure and banter.  I said yes.  In a way, I was feeling excited that I would attempt something so ‘crazy’ and out of my comfort zone (always a good thing to do every now and then).

The next morning I woke up and incredulously remembered the prior night’s events.  I was asking myself why I had agreed to undertake this ludicrous effort instead of politely saying I’d think about it.  Well, I am not one to disappoint so I decided I was going to give it a shot after all.  I decided that not because I thought that I had what it took.  In fact, I thought it would take a LOT of training time I did not have.  Training at altitude I also did not have easy access to.  And requiring plenty more hiking experience at altitude or not that I did not possess…

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Ready to start the climb – clean, well-prepared, and eager!

Getting ready for climbing Kilimanjaro

A million questions started swirling in my head once I accepted I was indeed going to stick to this.  SO many question!  How do I best prepare?  What do I need to bring with me?  What do I need to wear to deal with the cold?  Can I do anything to improve my chances at the doing well under exertion?  Can I do anything to help me be ready for the high altitude?  What did I need to know in terms of my personal safety?  How much was it going to cost me when it was all said and done?  And on and on.

I was fortunate to have been doing the expedition to Kili with an outfit like TFK.  They provided a good bit of info to help us prepare ourselves, and gladly answered all my questions as I researched things and acquired the things I needed.  I even remember being at REI looking at stuff.  I called TFK’s Director of Operations, an all-around hiking guru.  And started asking many questions to understand the options, look at items, see if the items’ features were really needed, and all that sort of good stuff.  It was not easy but having access to expert knowledge helped make these key decisions, Especially when spending is required and one has to be careful what one spends the hard-earned money on!!

I won’t repeat here all the things I decided to do in terms of preparation or to pack in terms of the best clothing options and non-clothing items to bring; I will provide links to those posts below.  But now I will address here the “how hard” question…

So how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro then?

Hiking to the summit of a 19,340 foot mountain is not something to be undertaken lightly.  OK, perhaps if you are a superstar athlete or have the right genes you can… but most of us do not fit that category.  Actually, I take that back:  even being a superstar athlete does not guarantee you will make it to the top of the mountain or even to the rim of the volcano (Stella Point for our route up).

Physical conditioning is only part of what is needed to make it to Uhuru Peak, the summit.  It will most CERTAINLY help you tons. I experienced difficulties after the intimidating Barranco Wall and, of course, summit night for not being in the best possible shape.  However, the other key factor affecting your chances of success is, well, simply how your body deals with the high altitude and lower oxygen levels.

The good news: you can do a couple of things that help a tad.  Nevertheless, you have to have an OK fitness level.   You WILL be exerting your body through a few hours a day of walking and gradual climbs, mixed with some steeper climbs at certain points!

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Leaving the Lava Tower looks harder than it was (Day 3)

Training at altitude would help but, from what I understand, the body’s adjustment to altitude dissipates within a few days/a week so that may not be logistically possible for most (if money and time were no object, of course, one would train at high altitude in another continent for a week or two and head straight to climb Kili without wasting days in between – not a likely approach for most).  I did not do any high altitude / long climbs as part of my training due to many constraints but certainly they can only help so if you are able to do some of that in the weeks before, then your fitness level will be better.

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Heading to Barafu Camp from where we would launch to the summit (Day 5)

Part of my training as I share elsewhere was walking on a treadmill on a high incline with a backpack loaded with twice the weight I would carry on the mountain.  It was an odd sight at the gym for sure but it helped physically if not just mentally…  That and the fact that I am in general good shape through routine exercise were in my favor but I still struggled summit night (who doesn’t?) and after the Barranco Wall.

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Climbing along (not up) the Barranco Wall had its challenging spots (me in orange!) (Day 4)

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A little while after the Barranco Wall (OK, an hour or so), we got hit by a little rain

Kilimanjaro was far from easy (each day I would end completely drained and able to move but barely). But I feel it is a reasonable, attainable goal for people with a fair degree of training/fitness.  And with the drive to push themselves beyond what they think they can do.  Yet, with all that, it will still all depend on how the high altitude hits each particular individual.  And that reaction cannot be predicted.

I have to say that MOST CERTAINLY going with a great organization (in my case, a non-profit like Trekking for Kids) and having a one-of-a-kind extremely seasoned lead guide as we had (Luis Benitez – read about him here) were key success factors in helping ME complete the journey from planning to trekking to summitting.  And making it down in one piece!

What was the hardest part about climbing Kilimanjaro?

It is a hard question to answer.  We are all so different.  My answer may not be yours.  Things I can think of include:

  • the cold, especially at summit night,
  • the longing for a nice glass o’ wine or a beer (OK, I threw that in for comic relief),
  • the badly needing to get up to pee in the middle of the night (if taking Diamox – or not),
  • the constant packing and unpacking, inflating and deflating,
  • the not showering,
  • the bathroom situation at camp and on the trail,
  • the rocks to climb requiring longer legs than I have,
  • the having a sick tent-mate and wondering for days if you will catch it and not be able to summit,
  • etc.

(NOTE:  Observe that food is not on this list of possible “hard” things.  I ate great stuff thanks to our great porters and crew!)

But, frankly, all these things are overcomeable.  For instance, while I used wipies every day to sort of clean up after a day of hiking, I had no such thing for the hair.  Yet not even ONCE on the mountain did I think that it had been days since I had washed my hair last.  Those who know me will know how incredible THAT sounds.

Kilimanjaro:  Hard climb but special

That’s what makes going up Kili something special.

YES, it is hard in many ways. Indeed, physically, no matter how well trained you are (with those rare exceptions).  But the hardest part is the mental part.  When you wonder if you really can make it all the way.  And when you wonder whether you want to – on one of those rare moments when you are too tired to think straight.

The hardest part is keeping going, putting one foot in front of the other when you think you can step no more.  But you can.  And you will.  Pole, pole.  Slowly, slowly – our internal Swahili chant.  And you will be so amazed when it is all done that you actually did it.  That you had it in you.  I never knew I did.  But I did.  And I found out through this amazing experience…  I am eternally grateful for those folks at that fundraiser who egged me on. Because the sense of achievement and the self-discovery was truly a gift received – or earned, actually 🙂

And this is the face of happiness at 19,340 ft above sea level at the summit, with my family close to me.

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At Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro!!  (with the short-lived too-reflective sign; it’s gone now)

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Some key links to other posts I have written here based on my experience of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro:

Gear for Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro Clothing

Preparing to Hike Kili: More than Training and Gear

Top 14 Items to Bring on a Climb of Kilimanjaro

And if you want to read a day-by-day walkthrough of what it is to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro, start with Day 1.

And if you just like hiking in general, check out some of my posts about hiking in different places around the world!

Hiking in the state of Georgia: Blood Mountain

Hiking in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania

Trekking the W Circuit in Patagonia

Doing the Camino de Santiago in Spain

A Hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina

how hard climb kilimanjaro, kilimanjaro training, can i climb kilimanjaro

Would love to hear from you about places you hope to hike or favorites past hikes – always good to get ideas from others for future hikes!!

How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience.  Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train.  Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience.  In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp.  While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine.  In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live:  they are parks.  But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand.  Either way, the result is the same.  One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience.  It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return.  That was OK with me.  In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around.  (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”.  See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed.  I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route.  I also discovered the more  impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!).  The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft).  EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft).  So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night).  Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous.  (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar).  Sleeping quarters are not heated.  And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center.  So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along.  There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff.  So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics.  But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten.  Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

  • Upper Body and Legs:  The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost.  Layers are key to both.  Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan.  Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood.  The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice.  It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
  • Feet:  The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable.  Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet.  Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places.  You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots.  The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space.  Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
  • Hands:  Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must.  You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
  • Head:  A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know.  You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).


Gear and other practical items

  • Sleeping bag:  While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen.  So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring.  I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated.  Very much needed!
  • Night light:  When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc.  Don’t forget batteries!
  • Pillow:  A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow.  I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

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Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

  • Trekking poles:  Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support.  Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!

    Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Everest, Base Camp, Himalayas, trail, route, nature, outdoors, adventure, hiking, trekking

    Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar

  • Water:  Treating water is very important.  A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal.  Batteries are the big thing here.  Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it.   Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through.  Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen.  I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack.  It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.


  • Wipies/Tissues:  These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty.  Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around.  Or other general cleaning purposes!  [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
  • Towel:  A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels.  Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold.  Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…


  • Medications and first aid:  The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances.  But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc.  Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs.  Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within.  Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request.  The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
  • Personal items:  The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc.  Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).
  • And, of course, duct tape!  Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs!  I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest!  Pin it to your board!

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If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below.  I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!).  Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!  

 

Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back.  As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin.  This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche.  This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post.  And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s.  We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below.  A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right.  This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek.  Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

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Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

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Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area:  Ama Dablam.  It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker.  Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house.  Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite.  Sometimes one, sometimes the other.  Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun.  A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

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Lemon tea, anyone?  One or two glasses…

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Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand.  They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb.  I was torn.  On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating).   I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch…  But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit.  So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?).  In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours.  The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon.  It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal.  We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world.  And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

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Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

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Lots of color and detail

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche.  With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away!  Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek.  Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too.  The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had.  I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me.  We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

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The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

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Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly.  There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water.  I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer…  The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature.  Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning…  Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change:  a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche…  The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari).  It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors.  That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways.  We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail…  While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal:  the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.


Want to start at the beginning of this trek?  Here is day 1.  Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.


Pin this beautiful image to your board!

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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp.  I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great.  I think the group as a whole liked it a lot.  Good start to our time in Namche!  (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this.  I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

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The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner.  I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

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Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp.  It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style.  Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight!  (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…).  Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

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A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

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View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain).  We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day.  The short hike was  steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point.  There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy, Ama Dablam

At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

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Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established.  It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

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Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, EBC, Everest, trekking, Himalayas

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Culture Museum

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Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

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Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte.  Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

View from the lodge’s dining room

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Read on:  Day 4 – To my turning point: Deboche

 

2015 – A Year in Review

2015 is almost over and it is time for the year in review which, I think, is an exercise not just in writing but in re-living the many blessings the year bestowed on me.  Here it goes and share with me some of the travels in your 2015!

In the city of brotherly love – Philadelphia, USA

My first trip of the year was to Philadelphia where family and friends live.  It is a place I love to visit though I do not get to do so often.  I welcome the opportunity whenever it comes though as I greatly enjoy spending time with my aunt and uncle who make me feel so at home whenever I go.  Though I got to see many, I did not get to see all my relatives nor all my friends which was a bummer – but good reason to go back!  As usual, my uncle likes to show me around places historical to both country and family.  I had not visited Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell since the early 90s and I enjoyed my visit there.  We also went to Valley Forge which had a special look since it was winter-time (and was also very cold!).

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Liberty Bell with Independence Hall behind it

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Independence Hall across the mall

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Valley Forge in winter – reminder of the cost of our freedom

Now, those places are not where the family history comes from 🙂 instead this building served as their home right after they moved up there from Miami.

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House where my parents and relatives lived

My first hike of the year – Blood Mountain, Georgia, USA

My first hike of the year was a training hike as I was going on a trek to Patagonia with Trekking for Kids.  My friend Phil who also enjoys hiking and I decided to do a hike near Blood Mountain that ended up -accidentally- in a climb of Blood Mountain.  While it was unplanned, it was a fortunate ‘accident’ as it all ended well and we enjoyed great vistas and trails.

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Entering Freeman Trail from the Appalachian Trail

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Along Jarrard Gap, the start of our hike

An amazing metropolis – Buenos Aires, Argentina

The orphanage work related to my trek to Patagonia was going to take place on the outskirts of Buenos Aires, capital of Argentina.  So I knew I was going to be spending time in this great city – and more importantly, eating the best beef in the world paired with great wine!  I enjoyed walking about town and having nice meals with my fellow trekkers (some which I knew already and some which I met there).

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The parrillada at Campo Bravo

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Don’t forget dessert: this beauty courtesy of Cabaña Las Lilas

But the best part was meeting the children and staff of the two homes we worked with on our projects which included repairing a very leaky roof and damaged walls and furniture.  Much as I loved spending time in BB.AA., this work was the highlight of my time there!

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Painting new furniture with the kids was an adventure onto itself!

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These kids were hard workers and also great with the soccer ball!

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At Temaiken, Buenos Aires’ zoo

Back in time – Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

When planning my Buenos Aires travel, I decided to add an extra day to cross the river by ferry and spend half a day exploring a town that was a good throwback to the colonial period of the region:  Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.  I sold three other trekkers on doing this short trip with me and we had a great time walking the streets of this easy-going town.  I highly recommend making the crossing if you ever have time in Buenos Aires!

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One of the MANY vintage vehicles in town – an Austin

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Basilica del Sagrado Sacramento

My favorite spot on Earth – Chile’s Patagonia

As I wrote earlier this year, I loved Patagonia when I first visited the Perito Moreno glacier and Chile‘s amazing Patagonia in 2010.  I’d always hoped I could return some day and that did happen… in 2015, much sooner than I’d ever thought possible.  I returned to hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina, re-visit the Perito Moreno glacier, and then trek through the Torres del Paine National Park – which I had not done in 2010.  And it was a rewarding effort for sure with great vistas and a glacier hike to boot.  Memorable is not a good enough word for the experience.  And, secretly, I hope I get to return a second time for my third visit!!  (click on the hyperlinks above to see more photos from each of the visits)

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Grey glacier, where we hiked

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On the trail to Fitz Roy

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The Torres del Paine massif

The great northwest – Portland, Oregon

Thanks to work, I spent five days in Portland, Oregon.  I had never been to Oregon so it was cool that I got to go there.  I arrived at mid-day on a Sunday and decided to take a walking tour of Portland as it would be the most effective way to see the highlights of the town while enjoying the great weather.

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Portland street

Mercifully, daylight went on late so I got to take advantage of it to take a drive along the Columbia River to see the waterfalls that dot the riverside.   I also got to enjoy dinners in establishments along either side of the river which was a phenomenal day to end the workday.

Family, friends and food fest (4 F’s) – Spain, olé!

Friends of mine were going to hike the Camino de Santiago, a hike I did in 2014.  I thought it would be cool to combine my wish to meet relatives I had not met who live in the outskirts of Santiago with my friends’ arrival in Santiago de Compostela.  My grandmother has two surviving cousins she never met in person who live in Bastavales.  I had met one of them last year when I finished the Camino walk but I had not met the other.  So I met María and her son, grandkids and great-grandkids for the first time and enjoyed their warmth and sharing special memories and photos of the family.  I also visited time with Flora, the cousin I had met last year.  It was really cool.

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With Maria, my grandmother’s cousin

I then welcomed my friends and their fellow trekkers as they arrived in Santiago at the end of their Camino.  It was wonderful seeing them glow in joy as they wrapped their long walk.  After they got their Compostela and going to Pilgrim’s Mass, it was time to celebrate with some cañas (beer) and tapas in one of the many beautiful old streets of this phenomenal city.  We also took a day trip to Finisterre on the Atlantic coast, a nice place.

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Beer and tapas in Santiago de Compostela

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The left side of the Cathedral

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With friends Phil and Tommy at Finisterre

The visit with my friends continued in Madrid and, after they left, I got to spend time with madrileños friend of mine, enjoying good drinks, food, and atmosphere around town.  It was fun spending more time in Madrid (check out “6 Cool Things to Do in Madrid“!).  I love Spain but I loved more the opportunity to be there with friends!

Reuniting with dear friends – California

In late May, dear friends left Atlanta to head to California due to a job opportunity.  It was hard to see them go as I spent many a Friday night over ten years hanging out with them pre-kids and after-kids.  So, it was great when work offered me the opportunity to go to San Francisco so I could spend the weekend after the conference with them in their home outside of San Jose.  They took me to two great Mexican restaurants, one of them right by where they live.  I enjoyed a drive down Pebble Beach on the famous 17-mile drive (which I still have to write about!).  And we visited the charming coastal town of Carmel – and its impressive mission.

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Glorious skies at the Carmel Mission

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Waters along the 17-Mile drive

Up-north (WAY up north) – Duluth, Minnesota

Work took me for a brief business trip up north, to a small town 45 mins north of Duluth, Minnesota.  Driving along the coast of Lake Superior was very nice and peaceful.  We only had one night in Duluth but enjoyed a nice breakfast at a mom-and-pop type of place and dinner at a pub.  Of course, being the traveler that I am, never having gone to Wisconsin, and realizing I was just a bridge-crossing, I just had to do it… We had mostly an open morning so, along with a colleague, I drove across the water to a coffee shop I found online in the town of Superior, Wisconsin!  A coffee later, we crossed the bridge again and back in Minnesota!

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Wisconsin, here we come!

Returning to one my favorites – Chicago, Illinois

I first went to Chicago in a bitterly cold January in 1991 with company for training.  And I kept returning over the years mainly in winter.  This year I got to go in August for pleasure, after spending a few days in Minnesota for work.  I got to enjoy walking everywhere, getting to the lake, which I had never done.  I also explored new parts of town thanks to friends (including little gems in terms of eateries).   Overall, what I enjoyed most about this trip was a first for me in Chicago:  going to a museum!  The Art Institute of Chicago was right up my alley as very much an amateur in terms of art.  It made it all approachable and enjoyable without overwhelming.  I highly recommend it.  I look forward to returning to Chicago and having more time to see all the friends who live there (this was practically a day-and-a-half visit) – and explore a new museum or two!Chicago, Illinois, skyscraper, cityscape, photo, glass. buildings, architecture

An epic trek to close the year – on the route to Everest Base Camp, Nepal

I was not planning any other hike on 2015 after having done Patagonia earlier in the year.  However, I found out that several folks I knew from prior treks were going to do the trek to Everest Base Camp and I started wondering if I could go…  I was generally fit even if not well-trained, it was a generally good time to go from a work standpoint, and though I did not have vacation time to be able to go to base camp, the trek offered a shorter itinerary.  So, I went for it.  I had a great time and was thrilled to having seen the Himalayas, Mt. Everest, and the hamlets and people of the highlands of Nepal.  I am still writing about the trek so I will just point you to a couple of the writings:  flying into scary Lukla airport to begin the hike, day one of the hike (you can keep going from there to later days), and one of the neat sites I saw in Kathmandu.  The best part of the trek was the work done before the trek in the village of Kumari.  Check out the work we did with Trekking for Kids here.

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The prayer wheels

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Kids from Kumari

Epilogue to a year that ends…

2015 was an epic year.  From great hiking experiences, time with family and friends, new destinations, and good food and drinks, it had it all.  I got to step in South America, North America, Asia, and Europe all in one year!  However, as the year came to a close, we lost my stepdad, Rubén.  It was a bittersweet time as he had been suffering from Alzheimer‘s and his last week was one full of suffering.  So his passing offered him rest that we were thankful for, sad as it was to not have him around us any more.  Rubén, as my Mom, loved to travel.  They traveled across Europe and other places many times.  I got to travel with them and my sister and her family in several cruises to the Caribbean, Alaska, and the Baltic Sea, as well as explore places like Copenhagen, Panama, and Paris (where they visited me in 1999 when I was living there).  Though we will sorely miss him in this final journey he has undertaken, I know I will see again at the final destination.  Until then, I will continuing journeying here.  Rest in peace, Rubén!

ilivetotravel, family

In Panama in 2009

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