Picture of the Week – Friends Enjoying the Greek Isles
Sights and Pleasures in Mykonos
Mykonos is known for many things in a wide range of mild-to-wild. The sights and pleasures range accordingly. But Mykonos is more than the headlines. The views and food are phenomenal as are the beaches. I enjoy a few days of this paradise coming straight from Atlanta via JFK and Athens…
After landing in Athens, I made a connection to my Olympic Airlines flight to Mykonos. The Athens airport was extremely modern and well-signed so it was pretty easy to do the connection. I had ample time so I ate something at an airport cafe and took advantage of the free-wifi the airport offers for 60 minutes. Flying over the Aegean was dreamy, seeing all those islands dotting that beautiful-blue Aegean Sea. It was a vision.
The Mykonos airport as can be expected is small but efficient. I was met by a car from the resort where I was going to stay, the Apanema Resort which I discovered and selected after referencing Trip Advisor. The hotel is across the water, separated from it horizontally by a road and by a boardwalk under construction right by the water’s edge, and vertically by maybe 20m. This gives the hotel great views of the sea and the cruise ships coming in and out of Mykonos. This one especially made for a sight right in front of us!
The hotel is a short walk from the northern edge of the Chora (“the main town” of Mykonos), about 500m. Not a bad walk but you do have to walk on a curvy road without sidewalks… They are finishing what looks like a boardwalk down below but I didn’t a way up near the hotel. In any case, the resort with its infinity pool, personalized breakfast til late and nice poolside area was a great choice for me.
So, I went to Mykonos as I wrote in another blog entry because I wanted to see one of the more popular Greek isles since I had limited time and because several people recommended Mykonos over Santorini as a solo traveler. Though I am not a bar scene person nor a beach bum, Mykonos was a perfect place to go. First of all, it is not just beaches and clubs. There are a couple of museums (which I did not get to see) that are recommended plus a 20-min ferry ride away is Delos Island, a remarkable visible record of ancient Greek history. In addition, there are so many people coming and going in Mykonos that sitting down to people watch can occupy plenty of time. Plenty of shops around for those who may enjoy walking around and perusing (not yours truly). Finally, and more my cup of tea, so much material for photography! From the architecture, to the people candids, to the sunsets. Plenty to photograph. I played with my camera all the time and greatly enjoyed it.
Regarding Delos Island, it is best seen with a tour guide who can tell you what you are looking at and the interesting history of the place. It is a good 2-4 hour visit depending on whether you want to do some solo (i.e., unguided) hiking. Be warned: no one stays in the island except archeologists and the last ferry out is at 3 PM so plan accordingly! The ferry leaves near Little Venice. There is a small museum and a small cafe. Sunscreen and water definitely recommended!
Beaches
In terms of beaches, the hotel recommended Elia as more relaxing than Paradise but I ended checking out both. Elia was bigger but without as many facilities as Paradise. However, Elia still had a restaurant, clean restrooms and the like. In both beaches you can rent a chair and an umbrella for 6-8 euros and both offer bar service though in Paradise no one came by the 2 hours I was there. I hear Paradise becomes party central after 4 PM but I left around that time.
Overall, I think Elia felt less crowded (though neither was too crowded as it was the end of the season) and spacious. Elia had a more mixed crowd whereas Paradise early in the day felt more like families or couples, though it could have been the part of the beach I plopped myself at. To get to the beaches you can rent a car or scooter, take a taxi (though it will be expensive), or just take the local bus with for around 2 euros each way, is pretty cheap. Paradise has more buses in the schedule than Elia which is less frequent. You can also connect among several beaches by taking a caique or boat. That may be a good way to sample different beaches in one day.
Little Venice
The Little Venice area of the Chora is one of the more popular parts of town. There is everything there from shops, to the emblematic Paraportiani church, to clubs/bars/restaurants. In the places facing the water (Katerina’s and Kastro, for example), you have great views of the windmills and of sunset.
Dining
I lounged a couple of afternoons sipping mojitos, taking pictures, and just admiring the vistas. In that area I found two places that I enjoyed eating at. One was Nikos Taverna. I don’t know if the food qualifies as extraordinary but sitting at the plaza above the restaurant level makes for great people watching without feeling crowded in. I enjoyed my time sitting there watching life.
The other place, which was recommended by an American couple I met in the ferry going to Delos, was Kounelas. It is a phenomenal place hidden away between Little Venice and the waterfront of the Chora itself. This place is a must if you like fish/seafood.
They make you walk from your table downstairs to the kitchen where they open several refrigerated drawers with the latest catch be them monster shrimp or sea bass. Then they grill it for you. I sat at the top of the external staircase which afforded me views of all the passers-by downstairs in the alley. It was a slightly windy night which was perfect for me so I sat contentedly there through and after my meal!
So all that eating definitely required walking it off so I did that usually after dinner not only with the walk to my hotel but also just meandering in the Chora. One who is never afraid to get lost, like me, is at home there! However, how bad can getting lost be in this place where either you hit the water on a couple of sides or head up the hill? Not hard to eventually get your bearings!
I mentioned the sunsets earlier and they are pretty spectacular though I guess that is true of anywhere with a clear view of the west. In Mykonos, I either watched them from my hotel’s terrace or from one of the bars in Little Venice where I got to look at the windmills in the changing light. We also enjoyed full-moon nights which made for a pretty sight on the walk back to the hotel.
Mykonos is an enchanting little island and I am glad I not only got to see it but got to see it slightly off-peak. As it was there were multiple cruise ships every day but it never felt too crowded for me. I can imagine the partying is louder and more crazy in July and August. By the time I got there, the winds were blowing strong and Paradise was announcing its close of the season party on 16 September. I found out most hotels and the like start shutting down so I guess it is not a place where Europeans go to escape northern Europe’s winter.
My sum-up of the visit is a positive one. Though traveling solo, I was never bored. There was plenty to draw my attention, to do, and to eat 
I actually would like to return sometime, try staying in different parts of the island. However, I would also like to explore other Greek isles. The problem is which and how much time can I take to do it!
The Main Events in Greece – Or Why I Went to Greece in the First Place!
I got to Athens early on a sunny day’s morning. (Is it ever not a sunny day in Greece, I wonder??) Because that evening I was attending a wedding reception in Kapandriti, way outside of Athens to the north (I think), I did not go to Athens proper but instead to the town/suburb of Kifissia, a very nice/upscale district to my eyes. It was a lot closer to Kapandriti (though not super close) so it made sense to spend the night there especially considering that the wedding party could go quite late so it would help shorten the ride back.
I checked in at my hotel a few blocks away from the main street at Kifissia, which is loaded with shops and restaurants, near a square whose name escapes me but that sounds Greek to me… The hotel I stayed at was the Theoxenia House, related to the Theoxenia Palace. I chose it based on Trip Advisor reviews which is quickly becoming a good way for me to determine things like this. (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g1026500-d617814-Reviews-Theoxenia_House_Hotel-Kifissia_Attica.html) It was functional for the 24 hrs I was going to be there. I went off to explore and have lunch. It was a very windy day. As I sat in the cafe, they served me potato chips on a small plate when they brought me my glass of wine while I waited for my meal. The chips mostly flew away due to the wind! It was incredible. As was my food. A great way to start this leg of the trip and to set me up for a nap as I knew I was going to face a very long night of wedding partying.
I met up with a friend of the couple to taxi over to the wedding, a nice $42 cab ride to a winery in Kapandriti. As we waited for the groom and bride, besides mingling, we went on a tour of the new museum the winery was about to open. Though the tour was in Greek, a lot of the stuff they had was pretty neat (old grape presses, old machines used to make corks, old ways of bottling and corking the wine, etc.).
The winery’s grounds around the reception area
The wedding couple finally made their entrance (the actual wedding had taken place in Atlanta and there had been a very private blessing right before the reception with only the closest family) and the party began. A very nice meal with lamb, pork, and many of the things I associated with Greek food. Of course, there was wine galore and I had to work at managing my intake despite the pressure and the many toasts! The family had prepared a great slideshow of pix from the Atlanta wedding so the Greece family members could see what had taken place in Atlanta since most or all could not make the trip over. It was a great touch and for me great to see what has just transpired a week before though it felt like months before since I had in the meantime been exploring other parts of Greece.
Finally, there was the dancing. Everyone was in the mood for a good time and a good time was had. Especially neat for a foreigner like me was to see them do some of the typical Greek dances which I inevitably had to join and which I performed quite poorly. Nevertheless, the crowd was so much fun, it didn’t matter.
Around 230AM or so, we rolled away as someone from the family offered us a ride back which was greatly appreciated. I conked out as soon as my head hit the pillow. Gladly, I had behaved well enough so the next morning was not a pain. After getting ready, I decided not to hang around in Kifissia until the late afternoon family BBQ I was invited to go to, but instead to head into Athens proper and check in at the hotel where I would spend the next 2 nights. I figured I didn’t want to lug around my luggage, much as it is made to lug around I suppose, to the BBQ, etc. and check in late that night. I took a cab to make it easier and got to the Ledras Marriott where immediately, I felt like almost home with the standard Marriott approach, design and amenities (like the executive lounge). It was a smart move as I could then just relax until the BBQ. I had lunch and ended up at the rooftop pool, and later a nap.
Eventually I made contact with the group and started headed out of town again, first to Kifissia to meet up with someone else and then to catch a ride to Oropo, a town further away north than Kapandriti by the cost facing the island of Evia.
The marker shows where Oropo is in relation to Athens
The BBQ was at an aunt’s house in an area that would not qualify as rural but was not too urban, making it a very nice place to spend a late Saturday afternoon. The groom and bride opened gifts as a sheep was rotisseried and the other food prepared. The meal was a feast for sure!
As we were eating, the family found out I was single and unattached at which point they all became very interested in my case. My friend told me: “you are in trouble now! they are making it their business to find you someone!” Even Yaya, the elderly grandmother told me I was handsome, a good catch, and that she wished me happiness - all in Greek but at some point I got a sense of what she was saying and asked someone half-jokingly ”is she proposing to me?” and the answer was “pretty much”!
After this feast, a cousin of the bride who was our ride back, told us we were going to another cousin’s BBQ that night. My jaw dropped. I could not comprehend how I would stuff another morsel of anything in me. And here we were headed to another BBQ! We made it over to the house overlooking the town and sea from a distance. We had a few beers, hung out with the very friendly cousins, and eventually helped start the fire to roast the lamb. I was not understanding how after the long night the night before, I was going to make it this night when the fire was just getting started. Much to my relief, our ride announced we were heading out as he needed to go. Though I was definitely enjoying myself, I was a relieved, I must admit. And the trip back to my hotel began.
These experiences have given me a much greater appreciation of Greek culture and Greeks, beyond the Greek union protesters which seem to define what being Greek is these days to those of us too far and too unconnected with Greece or Greeks. Being of Latin background myself, I am quite familiar and comfortable with the friendliness and warmth that I received from my friend’s Greek relatives. I miss those things living in Atlanta/the U.S. My trip was well worth it even if I had not done anything else that be a part of the celebration of my friends’ marriage thanks to the experiences I had with this family. Efjaristo poli, Stelliani and Tom!
And to Greece I Went – Choosing a Greek Isle
Three months ago, I head no idea I would be coming to Greece in September. A friend was getting married to a Greek-American and one night having dinner with them, they told me there would be a second event in Greece itself after the wedding in Atlanta; the key was when they said they would love anyone coming from the U.S. My eyes opened big (at least, I think they did…) and an idea was born.
I had to make sure it would work with work but I planned it as if it would be OK. Sure enough, most things are possible with good planning so on September 11 (yes, I know…), I boarded my plane to JFK where I would connect with my flight to Athens.
But, as is usual with most of my trips, it can’t just be “the one thing”. I had never been to Greece though, clearly, with all the history it has, it was on my bucket list towards the top. However, I said to myself, how could I go to Athens and NOT hit the islands?? That had to be addressed so I began asking around amongst people who have traveled here and the bride herself, which island to go to.
I am not a party-goer (anymore; did plenty of that already) so finding party islands was not the goal. However, since I would be traveling alone, I definitely wanted somewhere that was not just for honeymooners and had something more than beaches since I am also not one to spend 3 days, 8 hrs each at the beach. Santorini and Mykonos were my finalists just because they are so well known and I wanted to hit one of them (no time for two of them given the wedding related events and my schedule). Everything zoomed in on Mykonos as the place to go. Though it is known for the partying, it is also very close to Delos Island with its rich history (in mythology and after). Friends also thought the eating and bar district would be fun for a solo traveler. I will write more about Mykonos but my friends were spot on.
In the end, I would have like 3.5 days in Athens but about 1.5/2 were to be with my friends and the Greek side of the family for various activities including the reception in Kapandriti, north of Athens, and a BBQ at a relative’s in Oropou. So, Athens was not a hard thing to figure out since the short time there would be taken up with the key sights everyone sees the first time (again, more later on this…).
I did split my stay in Athens in 2 as the reception being further north, it made more sense to stay in the stylish neighborhood of Kifissia than in Athens proper. Yet for the sightseeing at the end of the trip, it would make better sense to stay in the Athens city center (that and I could stay for free at the Marriott there with my points!). So, that became the plan and it worked out well.
Hotel Ledras Marriott
As a side note, my connection on the way back was an overnight 11-hr layover in Paris. As soon as I heard my boss was not going to be in this week, I went ahead and made it a 35-hr layover just to walk around Paris (I lived there in 1999 and have been back a few times since so it is like going to a second hometown of sorts). I planned to do a maison du chocolat tour friends did in April and just hang out.
So, out of nothing, it would seem, a great trip shaped up. Stay tuned for my writings on all the exploring!
Photo of the Week – Grapes of Bordeaux
Visiting Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou in St. Julien was a neat experience since we got a private tour. But, of course, my eyes go to the grapes and the vines. Thinking how these little round things will produce a wonderful liquid for us humans to enjoy… This picture is to not me about perfection in photographic technique but about the grapes, full of color, full of pulp, and ready to be taken…
About
Part of the fun of traveling, besides the travel itself, is the experiences that happen along the way. Getting hopelessly lost in eastern France, getting stuck in a public restroom in Versailles, finding a tucked away neighborhood park in touristy Venice, being tossed into a stranger's car in the Sinai peninsula, discovering the most mouth-watering wines in Mendoza, etc. all enhance the travel experience. 15 years of travel writing, first just emails to friends and family as I went around the world and as of 2008, via this blog!
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