Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

1 August 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin. I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.). This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere. More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck. It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town: Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea. I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate. And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm. Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that. But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

I have to be frank: I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip. Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar. I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia. Its origins can be traced to the 1100s. I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903! Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around. Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot. It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings. And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed. Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start. Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II.

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960. The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design. That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened. Powerful.

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The bell tower from 2 sides

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.

Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower. It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part. So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!

salmon, German potato cakes, German food, comida alemana, Wismar, Germany

This was an amazing lunch and a nice break from sightseeing!

Beautiful image to close out this post on this charming Baltic town!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, brick Gothic architecture, churches in the former East Germany, Communist towns in Germany, discover Germany, East Germany, Hanseatic League towns, reise, travel, travel in Germany, turismo, Wismar

How to See Lübeck, Germany – from Up High

4 March 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Lübeck, Germany is an amazing medieval town with lots to see and incredible architecture and streets to explore. An earlier post shares all these sights and places to explore. In this post, I share how to see Lübeck from up high. The vantage point offered by going up the tower of St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche) near the Holstentor Gate is probably best as it is almost at the center of the island where the heart of the city lies.

How to see Lübeck – first an aerial view

This aerial photo of the old town shows a couple of the places that will be mentioned – note the location of St. Peter (“St. Petri Kirche” on the map).

Looking west from St. Peter’s Church

The Holstentor Gate (shown on the map above) is the symbol of Lübeck and, short of being near it on the ground, this is the best way to appreciate it. It lies due west of St. Peter’s, a very short walk.

Salzspeicher , Holtenstor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Holtenstor Gate flanked on the left by the Salzspeicher warehouses

Salzspeicher , Holstentor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Close-up of Holstentor Gate

Salzspeicher warehouses on the Trave River in Lubeck

Looking north

Looking immediately down on the north-facing side of the viewing area, you look down on Holstenstrasse, the shopping avenue that leads to the Holstentor gate. On the top right corner, you see a bit of Marienkirche (which you can see on the map above).

Then looking up still facing north, there is Marienkirche, still being worked on as it is repaired from war damage. Amazing.

Looking east

Looking east, you see St. Aegidien Church and lots of green in the background. St. Aegidien’s Church honors an abbot born in the 7th century in Athens, Greece who lived most of his life in south France. The history of a church on that site dates back from the 13th century and the church has mostly survived the ravages of war…

St. Aegidien Church

Looking northeast

Looking sort of to the northeast from St. Peter’s, one sees the historical main square and market area. On the left with a low white facade and a brick structure behind it with copper/green towers are city government offices. Towards the centre of the buildings on the market is the Niederegger Café where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a deliciously decadent cake made of marzipan. Mmm!!

Tip: Go through the arcade to the street behind and you will find a Niederigger store where your eyes will pop at all the amazing ways they can craft marzipan and make great sweets…

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

The main square with government offices and markets

Looking south

Looking south you see on the right the Trave River and to the left the Cathedral (Dom) of Lübeck. The cathedral suffered bombing and fire in World War II and, though some of the contents survived, it required major reconstruction that only got completed in 1982 as priority was given to re-building Marienkirche. An odd fact is that, although it is a cathedral, it is not the tallest church in town due to “competition” (or, political battles more likely) between religious authorities and guilds (which helped support their churches).

And, finally, looking southeast

The view below shows, from above, a typical street lined up with beautiful architecture. There are quite a few streets like this on the east side and south side of the town. I could have kept on walking admiring the facades of these beautiful buildings. The street seen in the center of the photo is Mühlenstrasse (look at the map at the top of this post where this street shows towards the bottom middle, and then look up on the right of the photo to see how many such side streets there are!).

You can see, I am certain, why I enjoy going up high in any town I visit so much. Seeing it from up high gives you perspective and a sense of the lay of the land that a map just doesn’t do justice to. Be it Bologna, Sydney, Berlin, Chicago or Lübeck, it is always worth the climb (or elevator ride where available!).

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: exploring Lübeck, How to See Lübeck, Lübeck Germany, Niederegger marzipan, things to see in Lübeck, views of Lubeck

A German Coastal Town on the Baltic Sea

17 December 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

The German coastal town of Travemünde faces the Baltic Sea in the northern part of the country. It is where the Trave River, which runs through Lübeck, Germany, meets the sea. It is also one of many German coastal towns on the Baltic Sea where Germans flock for fun in the sun in the summertime.

We stayed in nearby Schlutup which, though on the coast, is not itself such a beach town. And while not a tourist destination, it offered a glimpse into more residential areas and a Cold War curiosity (read on…) Looking to explore the more touristy coastal towns we spent half a day walking around Travemünde and also enjoyed dinner at nearby Timmendorfer Strand.

Exploring Travemünde

Travemünde first came to being as a fortress around the 12th century but the fortifications are long gone. It is now better known as a resort town and the port hosting ferries.

After driving into town and picking a residential street not far from the waterfront to park, we walked along the street noticing the architecture of the homes and walked past a church where a wedding had just taken place.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, church — Inside of 13th century St. Laurence Church

From there we meandered through small and picturesque side streets until we made it to the waterfront enjoying the architecture of this Baltic Sea coastal town.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture — Street in Travemunde

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal town — Charming house

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal towns — Oldest house in Travemunde dating from the mid-16th century

Architecture detail, German architecture, Baltic coastal town, Travemunde, Germany, Deustchland — Architectural detail

Typical beach town scene in Travemünde

Travemünde’s waterfront is not atypical from other beach towns anywhere, really. A nice path along the water allows one to go for a nice long walk. Towards the end of the path there was a fair or festival taking place with temporary large and small tents with music and food.

Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal towns — Time to sit down and enjoy a beverage!

Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal town

We opted to walk back to the main part of the waterfront with its shops and eateries and picked one with tables out by the waterfront to enjoy a beer and watch life go by.

Being peak summer time, there were a lot of tourists in this German coastal town. Most were Germans though I would not be surprised at Danes, Swedes or others being there given the proximity. Ferries do leave from nearby to places as far as Helsinki, Finland so it is a very likely scenario.

Schlutup: Memories of the Cold War in Germany

The Cold War evokes many different memories. For many of us, the Berlin Wall is the supreme symbol of the time. For Germans, I suppose there are many more specific things and places that bring back the memories. The town of Schlutup, where we stayed, was just about 300 m (1,000 ft) from the former border between the two Germanies, likely close to being the northernmost point of the border, in a way.

Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town — House in Schlutup

It was definitely not a touristy town whether for foreigners or Germans. But it is where would found a neat water-side apartment in a two-story building to rent for a few days.

But it was on the eastern edge of the town where we found a tiny reminder of the Cold War: a local museum to the Iron Curtain and border control that existed right there while the Germanies were divided.

Grenz bei Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz — Museum was closed so photos through window had to do

Grenz am Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz

Off to dinner by the water in Timmendorfer Strand

The night of the lunar eclipse of July 2018, we picked Timmendorfer Strand as the place for dinner. We actually did it not thinking about the eclipse and it would have been an ideal spot to watch it except it was overcast.

The town felt a little less commercial but perhaps it was the part of town where our restaurant was, near residential buildings vs. commercial ones.

Our restaurant, Wolkenlos, was actually located on its own pier jutting into the water. It had windows all around and that was great though it basically grew extremely hot with the sun setting and glaring through the glass. And no air conditioning nor open windows to help. While the meal was good (and my dinner companions even more so!), we were sweating too much to say the meal experience was enjoyable.

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, schnitzel, German food — My awesome dinner: Wiener schnitzel with fries and a side salad

Enjoying the sea breeze

The restaurant did have an outside deck area so as quickly as we could get our bill and pay, we moved outside. At first standing by the railing but, as soon as a table freed up, we sat down. And that’s when I can say I enjoyed the evening fully, sipping a beverage and feeling the sea breeze. Perfect way to wrap up the day!

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town — Outdoor deck at sunset

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, sunset in Germany, German coastal town — Sunset over the beach

Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: Baltic Sea coastal town, beach in Germany, beach town in the Baltic, strand, timmendorfer, Trave River, Travemunde

What to See in Lübeck, Germany – Charming Medieval Town

11 December 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Lübeck is the best example of medieval architecture in northern Germany (so I read). In this post, I hope to share with you what to see in Lübeck whether you are planning a visit or just want to check out a lesser-known destination in Germany! I see little or nothing in blogs or social media about Lübeck. I am grateful that friends who live in Germany knew better and I got to explore Lübeck, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lübeck suffered during WW II but many medieval structures survived (two of the four city gates survived) or were re-constructed (like St. Mary’s Church); another thing to be grateful for.

A bit about the Hanseatic League

Before sharing what to see in Lübeck, a little background / history… The Hanseatic League was a commerce and defense league that operated from the 14th until the 17th century in northern Europe on the coasts of the North Sea and Baltic Sea. The town of Lübeck, in north Germany, was its capital.

The Hanseatic League was not a kingdom or a state of its own. Rather, it was a confederation of free cities and towns along the North and Baltic Seas located in what today includes The Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, Poland, Estonia, etc. Bottom line: it was about commerce and banding together to protect the towns’ rights. Smart.

Lübeck had a lot to do with the origination of the league. Its strategic location as almost a crossroads between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, and between inland Germany to Scandinavia sealed its role as the capital of this powerful entity. However, Lübeck had been an important settlement since around the 10th century, a few centuries before the Hanseatic League. Having been afforded the status of a Free Imperial City of the Holy Roman Empire in 1226 (i.e., directly overseen by the Emperor) certainly elevated its prominence and likely helped it become a center of trade that would give it its leading role in the Hanseatic League since it was the most important of all the towns in the region.

Lübeck’s location

Lübeck is in the north of Germany, not quite on the coast but a tiny bit inland. Its river, the Trave, connects to the Elbe River via a canal giving it water access to the North Sea. But Lübeck is almost at the mouth of the Trave River where it hits the Baltic Sea by the beach town of Travemünde. The old part of town is actually on an island in the Trave River but the greater Lübeck area covers a broader area, including the hamlet of Schlutup, where we stayed during our visit to the area. Schlutup was right on the western side of the former West-East Germany border during the Cold War so Lübeck was not that far from the border itself.

Visiting Lübeck is easiest from Hamburg, the closest large city (check this ilivetotravel post for the top free things to do there!). It is a short drive (about an hour or so). A commuter train ride is also possible from Hamburg.

The town’s Gothic architecture is at the heart of what to see in Lübeck

Brick Gothic is an architectural style seen in the northern parts of Europe west and east of Lübeck in Germany and Poland. The lack of stone in the region led to the reliance of bricks for construction. Old town Lübeck is a great representative of this unique architectural style as are other towns like Rostock and Wismar (of which I will write more later). Churches were built in this style but merchants’ and guilds’ buildings also built on this style. Keep an eye out for this architecture style as you see photos in this post!

Market Square

The market square, by city government offices and a short walk from St. Mary’s Church, is fairly small compared to other such squares in Europe but it does have a neat arcade worth checking out.

Also worth checking out is the Niederegger marzipan café with some amazing specialty beverages (like fancy coffee drinks) and even more spectacular desserts, some of the them using Niederegger’s well-known marzipan. Right behind this café outside of the market square is Niederegger’s main store offering a dizzyingly good array of goods. It is worth walking through, even if you are not buying anything!

Burgtor Gate

The northern gate into old town Lübeck crosses a canal from the north. It is one of the two medieval gates in town (the other being the more famous, more beautiful, and more iconic Holstentor Gate, see below…) though its roof is more recent. We entered the old town through this gate after crossing a branch of the Trave River.

Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Burgtor (city gate)

Trave River, Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Bridge over part of the Trave River by Burgtor

St. Mary’s Church (St. Marien Kirche)

One of the great examples of Gothic brick architecture in Europe, influencing the design of many other churches in the region, is Lübeck’s St. Mary’s Church, built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former church. It is one of the first church built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material.

For someone who has seen Gothic churches elsewhere in Europe, the style rings familiar yet something feels a bit off – it’s the red bricks! It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic. However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942. A broken bell from the bell tower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about… See a picture of it and read more about St. Mary’s in this earlier write-up in this blog here.

The Holy Spirit Hospital

This building towards the north end of old town houses one of the oldest social services institution in Europe: the Holy Spirit hospital (Heiligen Geist Hospital). The institution was founded in the 13th century to take care of the sick and elderly. In the early 16th century, it stopped being affiliated by the church and passed to the civilian authorities. The front of the building has an open space, a choir, and hosts frescoes and triptychs. It stopped having residents in the 1960s and now hosts art and craft fairs on occasion.

St. Jacob’s Church

Right near the Holy Spirit Hospital is the Church of St Jacob‘s, the church of seafarers. It may not be the most impressive of the churches in Lübeck, but I still liked seeing the details inside. The church was built in the mid 14th century. It did not suffer damage from World War II so it retains the original boxed pew and organ. I also enjoyed the area around it as I waited for my friends to come out (I was babysitting their dog, Luna – a cute one!).

St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche)

This church was built in the 13th century and continued to be modified in the 15th and 16th centuries. It lost its roof in World War II and the final renovations from that damage and temporary repairs was completed in 1987. Its best feature, in my book, is the views from its tower.

Holstentor Gate

Lübeck’s most iconic structure represents the city to the world. It is a beautiful building, even as it leans. Holstentor, the western gate into the old town, is just a couple of blocks from St. Peter’s Church.

Holstentor almost got demolished in the 1860s because of a movement to get rid of old fortifications around the town. Unbelievable that locals thought this gate dating from 1464 was not worth keeping!! It has required maintenance over time to stabilize it with the last major restorations being done in the 1930s and the 2000s. Holstentor survived World War II which is a miracle – and, therefore, it is a must-see structure for any visitor to Germany.

And the streets of the old town with the majestic facades!

If you liked any of the above, walking around the old town is even better! The design of the building’s facades felt so new to me, it captivated me… Here are some images of what I so enjoyed. Definitely top of the list of what to see in Lübeck ! ——————————————————————————————————

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: gothic architecture, hanseatic league capital, holtenstor city gate, Lubeck, must see Germany, off the beaten path Germany, places to see in Germany, travel in Germany

The Jewel of Lübeck: Church of St. Mary’s

17 September 2018 by Raul 4 Comments

Visiting the former Hanseatic League‘s capital, Lübeck in north Germany, is a feast for the eyes for the amazing architecture the city has. The city’s important rose in prominence before the Hanseatic League came into being. A town had been founded there in the early 12th century after suffering serious damage in an invasion. One of the buildings constructed in that era was the jewel of Lübeck: the Church of St. Mary (Marienkirche).

By Thomas Möller Roggenhorst – originally uploaded to de.wikipedia by author on 24. Sep 2004, self made by author, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=110347

Gothic brick architecture

The Church of St. Mary is one of the prime examples of Gothic brick architecture in northern Europe. St. Mary’s was built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former wooden church built about a hundred years earlier. It influenced many other churches in the region, some number 70 other churches that took their inspiration in Germany and Poland from St. Mary’s.

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Side entrance to the church is adjacent to a really cool building in the background

The architecture of St. Mary’s is very unique because it is one of the first churches built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material. It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic! It also possesses one of the highest vaults from the Gothic period.

Altar

WWII damages the Church of St. Mary…

However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942. A broken bell from the belltower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about…

Broken bell, victim of WWIW

St. Mary’s is an active church of the Evangelical Lutheran branch. I happened to walk in a couple of minutes before the brief noon service. The attendants at the door (it is free entrance) asked my if I wanted to come later or if I was planning to sit through the service. I had no idea how long it would be but I said yes to the latter. It was a brief psalm reading and a short sermon. A local woman was trying to chide me when I decided to move pews because, as she saw my camera hanging from me, she thought I was touristing during the service. I was about to have a bad thought but remembered where I was, smiled, and moved on to the pew I wanted to sit at…

Make your way to Lübeck if you are visiting nearby Hamburg (an hour away or so). It is a phenomenal town and then check out the Church of St. Mary.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: brick gothic, german gothic architecture, germany, Hanseatic League, Lubeck, Marienkirche, must see Germany, st mary church

Images of Hamburg: A City in Photos

10 September 2018 by Raul 1 Comment

Having written some posts on what to see in Hamburg, I wanted to share some images of Hamburg that did not make it to those posts. Some are of Hamburg’s architecture or its setting, and some are a little more random. Hope you enjoy these images and that they make you want to explore this former Hanseatic League city!

The High Views in Hamburg

As you may have read in posts about Chicago, Sydney or my top 8 climbs in Europe, I like going high (not the same as “getting high”!) to soak in the vastness of a place and get my bearings. Well, Hamburg is no exception. I wrote about St. Nicholas Church where I got to see the city from up high. But there are more photos to share that I included in that post…

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

Looking towards the entrance to the old Elbe tunnel

Looking down to Speicherstadt and Hafencity

The Architecture in Hamburg

Like many city, really, Hamburg has great architecture. It is an amalgamation of styles from pre-World War II that survived to modern and post-modern and just frigging funky. You can see some more of these styles in my skyline photos in the Elbe Tunnel post, or in my unofficial guide to Hamburg covering places like Speicherstadt, Blankenese‘s stair district, the Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie), and the Chilehaus. But here are some other photos of the architecture in Hamburg that I really liked.

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Neat tile work and handrail

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany, statues in Hamburg

Lots of these statues atop doorways or along outer walls

Staircase at the Chilehaus

Along Speicherstad

Another cool building

Not sure what style this is but it looks very cool

The Eclectic in Hamburg

Hamburg, like any big city, will have its quirky quarters and scenes. Here are some images of Hamburg to help you visualize the eclectic side of Hamburg!

motorcycle, motorrad DDR, hamburg street scene, travel

Old school DDR

hamburg architecture, architektur, arquitectura, germany, travel

The building must be melting with the heat wave…

curb art, Hamburg street scene, bottle cap art, travel

Bottle caps as part of the curb

The Canals of Hamburg

Hamburg is a little like the Venice of northern Europe. The city center area is ground zero for the canals. I read somewhere that it boasts more bridges inside its city limits than any other city. Also, it is supposed to have more canals than Amsterdam or Venice – I find that hard to believe but not because I have any data or have studied the topic 🙂 So I will share a couple of images about the canals.

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, architecture, architektur, germany, Hamburg, Hamburgo, images of Hamburg

12 Things to Do in Hamburg for Free

3 September 2018 by Raul 15 Comments

Hamburg may not be known as the tourism mecca that Paris, London, Rome or others are. But it is a fascinating city to explore for its history, architecture, and culture. It was amazing when I looked back and realized how many things one can do for free in Hamburg to explore and joy this German city. So I decided to share twelve things to do in Hamburg for free There are more, for sure. Just consider this an unofficial guide to Hamburg and feel free to add via the comments below other suggestions you have (even if they are not free!).

The recommendations start at the Elbphilarmonie (Concert Hall), then move to the heart of the city and then move sort of out and westward so you can plan a route to explore following this sequence. I indicate U- or S-Ban stations near each spot when appropriate to help you plan the things to do in Hamburg.

1. Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie)

The Elbphilarmonie is the magnificent and very modern concert hall built on top of a warehouse/residential structure dating from the 1960s in the Speicherstadt district of old Hamburg. It cost nearly a billion dollars to construct and many years delay, finally opening in January 2017. One wonders what that money could have done, say, to improve lives of refugees, improve social services or the like, but the building is impressive, like it or not.

The concert hall does not sit on top of the older building: it has its own foundations. Pretty darn good engineering trick! There are two cool ways to explore the concert hall: touring it or going to the viewing level.

Elbphilarmonie, Concert Hall Hamburg, Germany, modern architecture, Hamburgo, Alemania, arquitectura, architektur

The concert hall is just something to behold!

The tour lasts about an hour and costs 15 euros as of this writing. It requires a lot of physical activity. Going to the “Plaza” or viewing level is actually free and offers great views of the city. However, there is limited capacity at that level so, if you want to guarantee your access, you can get a ticket in advance by paying a nominal fee (2 euros). [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

2. Speicherstadt

Close to the Chilehaus is the Speicherstadt district. This district was the warehouse district for decades. It was built in the late 1800s and seems to have survived WW II bombings so enough buildings either were OK or could be repaired (others were lost). The warehouses served a unique purpose in this important German port back when it was a customs-free zone. The rows of warehouses run long along canals and have access both from the water and the streets. It is curious to note that they are built on a foundation that uses timber poles to anchor them.

It is also neat to see how the whole district has been re-vitalized, I presume with new construction where the old buildings were destroyed in the war. As usual, modern German architecture is really fun to explore – they are much more creative than architects back home! [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

3. St. Nicholas Church

I wrote about this church, in the heart of Hamburg, in an earlier post. It is a simple yet powerful reminder of the craziness of dictatorship and war. It is almost park-like but the message is clear. Of the list of things to do in Hamburg, this is for sure the most thought-provoking. In addition, St. Nicholas Church’s bell tower offers a phenomenal vantage point of the city (you do have to pay for that view…). [U-Bahn stations: Rathaus or Rödingsmarkt]

Hamburg, St. Nicholas Church, Germany, WWII ruins, Hamburgo, travel, Alemania

Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

4. Chilehaus

If you love interesting architecture, stuff you don’t normally see, the Chilehaus (Chile House) building, with its massive scale, is the right sight for you. The building, in the Kontorhaus district of Hamburg, feels heavy with all those dark bricks but lightened by the small brick “features” that adorn in. I read somewhere that its design lends it lightness but I did not feel that lightness as an amateur.

In any case, the building dates from the 1920s and, like many things around this town, finds a way to evoke the maritime “centeredness” of the city, in this case, the shape of a ship. I had to look up why is it called the “Chile House” and learned that the shipping magnate who funded its construction made a lot of his money from trading in saltpeter from Chile.

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Large wavy outer wall of the Chilehaus

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Details of the exterior wall of the Chilehaus

When you are done checking the building out (and peek inside to the see old style staircases), walk some more around the area to see other old buildings. This link takes you to a live webcam offering almost 360 degree view around the Chilehaus. And I may add that it is across the street from the Chocolate Museum… [U-Bahn station: Meßberg]

5. Rathaus (City Hall)

The German word “Rathaus” is the word for “city hall.” I just love that word for a building where any politician sits. But I digress. Hamburg’s city hall is a beautiful structure close to water and the canal area of Hamburg and it houses both the First Mayor and the Parliament of the state of Hamburg. It is beautiful day or night.

Hamburg’s Rathaus was built in the late 19th century to replace the prior one that burned over 40 years before. It seems the building survived WW II well…

There are guided tours on offer during weekdays. I did not take the tour but I imagine it is a beautiful building inside… [U-Bahn station: Rathaus]

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Rathaus as seen from St. Nicholas Church’s belltower

6. Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

This area by the water, right near the Rathaus and the Neustadt fancy shopping district, offers a unique opportunity to feel you are somewhere like Nice enjoying a stroll, a lunch, or a beverage right by the water. In Hamburg, the water normally means the Elbe River but this lagoon-like body of water (the Binnenalster), which connects by canals to the river, has a totally different feel. You can watch the Alsterfontane, which reminded me of a similar fountain in Lake Geneva, while sitting at one of the cafés or restaurants in the area before you go to the nearby Kunsthalle Museum or the fancy stores in the Neustadt district! [U-Bahn station: Jungfernstieg]

Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

Enjoying a drink and a bite by the water

7. Planten un Blomen

Wandering a little aimlessly away from Binnenalster, we ran into the park named Planten un Blomen which does not sound German but Dutch, perhaps. It is located near the Alster and the Congress Center, forming a green belt surrounding part of the core of the city. We actually happened upon it by accident. It was nice to stroll the trails along the water features of the park and see a good number of locals enjoying the place. If you need a break from walking around and want to just find a park that feels remote from “urbanity,” this would be a great spot! [U-Bahn station: Stephansplatz]

8. Old Elbe Tunnel

Now, the route goes back to the riverside… The entrance to this old tunnel under the Elbe River is just west of the city center and down the hill from the infamous St. Pauli district (another free thing to do is walk around there…).

This neat engineering marvel (at least back when it was built) is not only worth going through but, on the other side, one is rewarded with a good view of the modest Hamburg skyline. It is free and it is quite easy to do. For more about this experience, check out this post in this blog! [S-Bahn station: Landungsbrücken]

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Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

9. Fischmarkt

Continue moving westward along the Elbe River (away from the city center; a long walk with not a lot to look at), you will eventually get to Hamburg’s famous fish market (more or less below the Altona district). The recommended thing to do is be there at the crack of dawn on a Sunday (it opens at 5 AM and closes by 9:30 AM) and see everything for sale (not just fish!).

Unfortunately, I was not in Hamburg on a Sunday so I can’t serve as a witness to the event. However, I did make it over there. I really liked the main building. Its roof had an Eiffel-like feel to it and the structure inside (I could not go it but peeked) and outside reminded be of the Central Market (Mercado Central) in Santiago, Chile. Next time I come to Hamburg, I WILL be there on a Sunday!

10. St. Pauli Street Art

The St. Pauli district is known for one thing: the St. Pauli Girl beer! Well, that may be the case in North America but it is known for being a rather raunchy place. I will let others talk about that part of the district’s “appeal” but I liked how eclectic it fell and no better example of that than the diverse and colorful street art (I will leave the raunchy ones out…). So among the things to do in Hamburg on this list, this may be the funnest! [U-Bahn stations: Feldstraße or St. Pauli]

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My favorite: the octopus wrapped around Hamburg!

11. Ottensen / Altona

Head up from the fish market to explore these two sections of town, Ottensen and Altona, just west of the heart of the city. They are very livable neighborhoods with neat modern and older buildings, pedestrian shopping areas, parks, shops, and some funky spots. Take the S-Bahn over and spent a couple of hours aimlessly walking these neighborhoods! [S-Bahn station: Hamburg-Altona station]

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Altona’s Rathaus

12. Blankenese Treppenviertel – the Stair District

Off-the-beaten path in Hamburg, and further west than Ottensen and Altona, is a district to its west named Blankenese. As I shared in this earlier post I wrote about this district, it was an area where ship owners lived back in the day. The district is beautiful with its many stairs to walk to explore the homes of these shipowners. Some of these stairs lead down to the edge of the river Elbe. It is the last in this list of the things to do in Hamburg, but not least!

Nice path’s along the stair district – no paths for cars!

Hope this list of things to do in Hamburg helps you plan your visit there – or encourage to go there if you were not considering it!

Do you have other suggestions, be them free or at a cost?? Share via a comment!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: Alemania, Allemagne, Hamburg, Hamburg travel guide, Hamburgo, things to do Hamburg, tourism

The Best Views of Hamburg via the Old Elbe Tunnel

28 August 2018 by Raul 3 Comments

Hamburg is an impressive city in big ways and small ways. And in deep ways. Enter stage: the Old Elbe Tunnel (Alter Elbtunnel, as it is called in German) which, odd as it may sound, offers the best views of Hamburg ! Read on…

History of the Old Elbe Tunnel

Hamburg is located by the Elbe River, an important artery for transportation of imports/exports into and out of Germany. Back in the early 20th century, there was a need to connect both sides of the river to facilitate local travel. So, they (whoever that’d be) decided to build a tunnel 80ft (24m) beneath the surface and 1,400ft (426m) in length in what was an engineering marvel at the time: the Elbe Tunnel.

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Beautiful mosaics (tile work) at the entrance to the tunnel on the city side

Marker at the middle of the tunnel crossing

The Old Elbe Tunnel opened in September 1911 when, as it was new, was not called the “old” Elb Tunnel but rather the St. Pauli Elbe Tunnel (named so as it abuts the “famous” St. Pauli neighborhood of Hamburg).

How does this tunnel work?

While there are many bridges and tunnels connecting both sides today, the Old Elbe Tunnel remains active for local travel and tourists alike. Four large elevators on either side of the tunnel bring up/down vehicles (cars, bikes) and people (locals, tourists) to go through the tunnel. Oh, and it is actually two parallel tunnels…

Two elevators side by side

Another view of the car/bike/pedestrian elevator

It is a neat little experience for visitors for many reasons – an a free one (for pedestrians and bikes; 2 euros for cars)! You can enter the tunnel and either walk down a long staircase or go down the elevator.

Either down the steps (L) or the elevator (R)

I actually recommend going down the stairs (going up would be harder) so you can admire the interior of the structure and see the elevators from a distance. Then go up in the elevator so you can experience that.

Once in the bottom, you will see one lane for vehicles and two one-directional sidewalks. Cars will only come in one direction since it is just one lane. And then pedestrians walk on the appropriate sidewalk depending on which direction you are walking. The tunnel is about 20ft wide (6m). As you walk, you can see some of the terracotta decorative tiles with maritime themes along the walls.

Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

Some of the glazed tiles gracing the walls of the Elbe Tunnel

Some of the best views of Hamburg

The Old Elbe Tunnel comes out across the Elbe River at Steinwerder. I was not aware exactly of whether there was a view point organized for the curious (like me) or whether I just had to walk around to find a good spot. I made a right out of the building and followed its outer wall towards the back, assuming I was headed in the right direction. Sure enough, there was a nice viewing platform after a short walk giving one a full view of the amazing city that is Hamburg. I am glad I went after having explore the city some already as I was able to identify landmarks on the opposite side. If you go, I would suggest doing the same (explore Hamburg first and then cross the river to check out the skyline).

From west to east, here is the skyline of Hamburg from Steinwerder. Enjoy!

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Looking towards Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market)

Looking towards the St. Pauli district & the Elbe tunnel entrance

Looking towards the massive statue to Bismarck and St. Michael’s Church

St. Nicholas Church (now a memorial I wrote about in another post) in the middle

The Concert Hall on the right

While the view from this side of the Elbe River is from down low and there are other places to get great views from up high (like St. Nicholas Church of which I wrote about), to me, these were the best views of Hamburg !

At the end of my checking out the skyline and taking photos, I made my way back to the Old Elbe Tunnel entrance on this side and proceeded to walk back through the tunnel (which, by the way, is much cooler temperature-wise than the surface so beware) to get back to Hamburg. Oh, and I took the elevator up on the other side 🙂

More off-the-beaten path Hamburg:

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Hamburg’s St. Nicholas Church – Silent Witness to WWII

20 August 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Hamburg, as many German cities, was ravaged by World War II. You can see sometimes structures that pre-date the war and, then, lots of newer construction post-war. And there are structures that perhaps were not totally lost but repaired/re-constructed. But there are rarely any that remain as they were right when the war came to an end. Plain and simple record of how the city looked. St. Nicholas Church in the heart of Hamburg is one of those places that silently stand as a testimonial to the destruction of war, almost completely as it stood at the end of the war (minor repairs to the belltower). (Another example is Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church in Berlin.)

Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

St. Nicholas Church and its short history

St. Nicholas Church was not an old church at the time of WWII. It had been re-built from a fire that destroyed the church as it existed on that site in the 1840s. The last church was completed in the 1870s and stood fully there until WWII – so it was about 70 years old until it was destroyed by bombs.

A remaining wall by the tower (L) and the opposite end of the church (R)

Detail of the foot of a column

In reading about the church, I learned that, for a couple of years after it was built, it was the tallest building in the world (taken over by the Cathedral of Rouen when it got finished in 1876).

After WWII, the St. Nicholas Church could have been re-constructed but it was decided to keep it as a memorial. Remaining standing outer walls were leveled years after the war. Some were not in favor of this as great architecture was lost. Attention was not paid to the site after that and it further decayed. That was until 1987 when it was prepared to serve as a place of remembrance.

Memorial

Great views of Hamburg and its history

Nowaways, one can ascend the tower (for a small fee) via an elevator installed in 2005 and take in views of this great city from 76m high (the tower is almost twice as tall). At the same time, the viewing area shows pictures of the vicinity as it looked at the end of the war.

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Poor picture of one of the photos in the viewing platform showing the destruction around the church

As many cities do, Hamburg has many great corners to explore, such as the Blankenese district in its outskirts. St. Nicholas Church is one of those places that carries a lot of meaning and conveys it effectively without needing to over-dramatize, over-complicate, or over-explicitly-explain. Clearly, I highly recommend visiting the site AND going up. The images from the past and from today are well worth it. So, to wrap this post up, ere are some of the views from up high!

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View of other churches in Hamburg’s city center: St. Peter and St. Jacob

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Hamburg’s Rathaus and the Binnenalster “lake” in the background

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View towards the impressive Concert Hall and the Speicherstadt District

Check out Hamburg’s Unique Blankenese Stair District

12 August 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Hamburg, in northern Germany, is one of its largest cities. This normally would equate to crowded, polluted, and just endless. Well, it may be a little of those things but I only felt the latter. Hamburg is really a collection of many areas (as most cities are). Among the most charming parts of the city is the outer district called Blankenese, one of my 12 cool things to do in Hamburg. It is a former fishing village – now one of the most affluent neighborhoods of Hamburg. But its status as a wealthy place is not what makes me recommend it. Instead, it is its “stairs” quarter – its “treppenviertel“.

A friend’s recommendation in Hamburg

A friend who lives in Hamburg recommended heading out to the area west of Altona‘s city center to check out the quarter (“viertel“) where ship owners used to live back in the day. This quarter in Blankenese is in a very steep area leading down to the Elbe River. Houses were built on the hillside and, given the times, roads were not needed/built but stairs (“treppen“) were. And there are plenty!

We drove out from Hamburg passing incredible little mansions right by the Elbe River until we got to Blankenese. We had no precise instructions but, quickly, we realized we had gotten to the point in town in question.

Exploring Blankenese’s “Treppenviertel“

At first, we thought we were looking for one major staircase down to the river until we noticed all the big and small paths and stairs connecting all the hillside houses overlooking the Elbe.

The houses were charming partly due to their architecture, partly due to the views, and partly due to their charming gardens. It was neat to explore though, as we were heading out to Lübeck, we could not walk around too much. Suffice it to say, it was well worth the drive out to experience this unique district and also to enjoy the drive along the river passing all the magnificent houses along the way!

Nice path’s along the stair district – no paths for cars!

Glad this district’s buildings survived the ravages of war

The old hotel by the beach

6 Tips for Visiting Berlin’s Pergamon Museum

5 August 2018 by Raul 4 Comments

Berlin is loaded with history, be it from before Germany itself existed as a political entity, to the times of the “kaisers”, to two World Wars, to the Cold War, and to current times. The collection of history can be found all over: in churches, buildings, monuments. But also within the walls of the many museums the city hosts. The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is one of the preeminent museums of the city – and of Germany. Before I share my list of Pergamon Museum tips, some background on the museum first…

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What is the Pergamon Museum about?

Pergamonmuseum, as it is called in German, covers some of antiquity’s most fascinating history from the Fertile Crescent and adjacent areas. Think Mesopotamia, Babylon, the Assyrians, etc. It also goes into older but not ancient history in the Middle East. For example, the various dynasties that arose after the founding of Islam. And then into Islamic art as it manifests itself through time and geographies, such as the Muslim era in Spain.

It is a broad range of topics and many may or may not sound familiar. However, items like the Ishtar Gate and the Market Gate of Miletus are imposing and impressive and likely known to some. (Ishtar may sound familiar because it was the name of one of the worst movies ever with Dustin Hoffman and Warren Beatty…).

The Ishtar Gate was one of the many gates in ancient Babylon and dates from about the 6th century B.C. Amazing, huh??

What is THE most famous piece in the museum?

However, the most important piece exhibited is the Pergamon Altar. The Pergamon Altar was not given that name because of the museum but, actually, the reverse. The reconstructed altar exhibited in the museum was from the ancient Greek town of Pergamon in what is now Turkey. German archaeologists uncovered it and brought its ruins to Germany in the late 19th century to reconstruct it.

Sadly, the wing where the Pergamon Altar is housed is undergoing major renovations and I could not see this grand piece (bummer!). The altar will re-open for visitors in 2019 or 2020 after about a 5-year closure. It better be a grand wing after a 5-year project!

Gate Miletus, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Market Gate of Miletus (as much as could fit!)

Assyrian Palace, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Reconstruction of Assyrian Palace. Here, a Lamassu (human headed bull)

How long has the museum been around?

Its current building dates from 1930 but the original museum was first established in that location, on Berlin’s Museum Island, since 1909.

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Is all the stuff exhibited real??

It is worth noting that not every item is original. Some of the items have been re-assembled like complicated jigsaw puzzles from antiquity. It was not always possible to find every piece to these archaeological puzzles. So, either the spots were left “blank” or were filled in with material reproducing what was likely in the spot.

Unbeknownst to me, some of the items are just replicas made from molds cast on the original pieces which may sit in another museum elsewhere around the world. Despite all this, the pieces shown, large and small, help one understand the forms, shapes, colors and motifs that were representative of the different periods.

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All the exhibits are properly signed in German and English with very minor exceptions which are usually tags for small objects here and there. Most of it will be explained in one of those aforementioned languages!

How long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum?

Let me start by noting that at any given time part of the museum may be closed for restoration or renovations, as I shared earlier. The museum is currently also being expanded to better flow through its wings. This means the ancient Greek exhibits are also offline.

So, back to the question: how long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum? Of course, some of that depends on whether you are just a walker looking at things as you move or whether you stop to contemplate. Also, how much of the larger explanatory panels you stop to read (which I highly recommend – otherwise, seeing old objects will not be of much meaning…). It took me about 2.5-3 hours to see what was available to me.

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Pergamon Museum Tip #1: take your time and breaks

It was easy to move through the museum as it was not like a maze. The two open floors had a flow to them which facilitated staying on course. It was also a welcomed feature that there were places to sit all over!

Pergamon Museum Tip #2: make a stop at the restroom BEFORE you enter the exhibits

One unfortunate feature of the museum is that the ONLY restrooms (at least in the wings that were open when I went…) are located on the lobby of the museum when you enter the building, by the lockers. The restrooms are located OUTSIDE the area where they scan your ticket to access the exhibits. I suppose you can exit and re-enter the museum but you would have to backtrack down to the ground floor (no exhibits are located on the ground floor). Most inconvenient and not visitor-friendly at all…

Pergamon Museum Tip #3: combine visits when you go

Berlin’s Museum Island, where the Pergamonmuseum is located right off Unter den Linden, a main thoroughfare in Berlin. It is right by the Berliner Dom (Berlin’s Cathedral) and next to at least three other museums on the island (the Bode Art Museum, the Altes Museum, and the Neues Museum).

The DDR Museum, showcasing how life was in East Germany (the Communist one), is also nearby. While my tolerance for time in museums is likely capped at 4-5 hours for a given day, I suggest coupling the Pergamon with the lighter DDR Museum. The DDR Museum may take about 1.5-2 hours tops. Or couple the Pergamon visit with a visit to the Berliner Dom.

Pergamon Museum Tip #4: avoid crowds

OK, this tip is not rocket science… Currently, the museum is open 7 days a week from 10 AM until 6 PM, except Thursdays when it stays open until 8 PM. However, it is a very popular attraction so to lessen the size of the crowd around you, go when it opens (there will be a crowd at any time but maybe a little less).

Pergamon Museum Tip #5: avoid the line to get in

Who loves standing on long lines? Yep, silence… I thought so! As with many places these days, one can buy tickets online, thereby saving a long line to buy the tickets. Also, when one gets the tickets online, one reserves a 30-min arrival time slot to get in. When I arrived, I pretty much strolled right up to the entry guards. As you can see in the photo below, there was a long and slow line of folks waiting to get their ticket – on a very hot day (there was shade at least where they were standing).

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, pergamon museum tip — See how long the line is? The sign tells you where to go if you already have your ticket

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, tips for pergamon museum — To the left, the line. To the right, the clear path to get in!

Pergamon Museum Tip #6: get the audioguide

The ticket I bought online cost me 12 euros. This ticket included getting the audioguide, that most necessary of tools to make a museum visit more educational. Key rooms and artifacts have numbers that one punches in on the audioguide. The explanations on average are 2-3 minutes long. Short enough to not bore, and long enough to sit on a bench and rest the feet from all the walking (I had walked TONS around town the days I was there and my feet were achy!).

Clearly, I highly recommend a couple of hours in this museum to anyone curious or fascinated by art, history, archaeology, and such things! More info on the museum can be found here.

Have you visited the Pergamon? What was your favorite item? Other museums in Berlin you like? Share by leaving a comment!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: art, Berlin, berlin Museum Island, culture, Islamic art, Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, things to do in berlin

In-and-Out: Munich, Bavaria’s Capital

15 December 2017 by Raul 2 Comments

Munich (or, München, in German) is a great city on many levels. Its location, the Bavarian cuisine, the amazing architecture, and the many things to see and do make it a perfect place to explore over a few days. However, my chances to spend time there seem contained to a day or so. My first time was in 1994 as I went from Frankfurt to Austria; the family I was traveling with had a relative there so we stopped somewhere on the outskirts of the city to have lunch and visit – a very short visit. Then in 1999, I went to Munich for a business trip that lasted just a few hours – not even an overnight and nowhere the near the city center. Eventually, in 2011, I finally got see the city center and stay overnight on a stopover as I returned home from a trip to Croatia. That time, I got to walk around Marienplatz at night and have dinner at a great local restaurant nearby but that was to be all.

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Place I had dinner at in 2011

Landing in Munich again!

Fast forward to 2017 and another visit to Munich appears on my radar but – yet again – it is not going to be a long one: another overnight but, this time, with the chance to see the city center in the daytime!

On the final approach on the flight over from Amsterdam, it was neat to see the beautiful Bavarian countryside…

Upon landing, it was time to get the rental vehicle and drop the stuff at the hotel before venturing into the heart of the city (the hotel was close to the airport). The drive into town was easy – GPS and Google Maps took care of that. It was neat to finally see the city in the daytime!

Approaching the city center

Marientplatz – the place to be

We approached Marienplatz by crossing through a former’s farmer market, the Victuals Market (Viktualienmarkt), now selling fruits, meats, and ready-to-eat food across a hundred or so stalls/kiosks/cafés. Though it was February, the place was teeming with people – very lively place.

The Victuals Market

We entered Marienplatz after passing by Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) by the side where the Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) is located.

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The Church of the Holy Ghost

Interior of the church

That places you seeing the Rathaus, or City Hall, from the side and at a little distance – it is so impressive to see!!

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The Rathaus upon entering Marienplatz

The Spielzeugmuseum – a toy museum – at one end of Marienplatz

The Rathaus (not rat house!), the key building in Marienplatz

Closeup of the Rathaus’ façade

Detail of a Rathaus’ entrance

Munich from atop the Rathaus

Whenever I have the chance, I go up! Climbing or riding up but I go up! At the Rathaus, you can ride up to the top to get great views of the city all around and to take a look down at Marienplatz itself. I highly recommend checking it out!

Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

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Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

Looking at the very top of the Rathaus from the viewing platform

View of the city from atop the Rathaus

From above, I want to explore all the corners of this great city: walk its streets, check out bars and restaurants, see its museums, visit its churches, etc. Maybe the fourth time will be the charm and I will get to spend a few days doing just that! Auf wiedersehen, München!

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