Beautiful Sirmione, Lake Garda’s Jewel

The town of Sirmione, Lake Garda is on the northern tip of a tiny peninsula that juts out of the lake’s southern shores. Lake Garda is the largest of Italy’s northern lakes and is very close to Verona.

I had never heard of it until 2021 when I went to the area to hike in the Dolomites. At that time, I was doing an overnight in Verona and decided to hop on the train for the short ride to Peschiera del Garda. Peschiera sits at the southeastern tip of the lake and just a little closer to Verona.

Second time visiting Lake Garda

In 2022, I got to return to Verona and decided that perhaps I would not overnight there but, instead, somewhere on Lake Garda’s shore. I started researching alternatives to Peschiera and discovered Sirmione. I opted for making a stop in Verona along the way for lunch at a restaurant I discovered the prior year, and then spending the balance of the day enjoying Sirmione.

Sirmione has a little bit of everything!

To enter the heart of the town, you must cross a bridge and go through the main gate. Once you enter the gate into the old town, it is pedestrian – for the most part. There are oodles of places to eat, have some gelato or perhaps a beverage.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

Sirmione is known for thermal baths, for being a beautiful “town”, for its resort-like R&R offerings, and its amazing old medieval castle.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
One of the spas intown

There are also the ruins of a Roman villa on the tip of the peninsula itself! This town has it all.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
The ruin of the Roman villa

A different way to appreciate Sirmione

We opted for a boat ride around the peninsula to appreciate the town from a different vantage point. The tour boats are usually located right outside of the gate to the town; easy to find. The boat ride was super fun as our captain/guide was quite a character. I recommend going right before the sun begins to lower for the best light for photos!

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
My Mom looking like a movie star!

Our lodging right outside the town gate

We stayed outside of the town but almost as close to the gate as possible on the west side of the peninsula. It is a skinny peninsula with only one road. Our hotel was small and super nice. My room’s balcony faced the park in the direction of the town’s gate but if I just looked left, I had a view of the lake.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

While Sirmione may be off the main path of most tourists visiting Italy, if you want to branch out and see a different Italy in a beautiful natural setting, Sirmione is it!

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

A Unique Spot in Verona: Piazza dei Signori

The Piazza dei Signori (or, “Piazza of the Gentlemen”) is right next to the more famous (and impressive) Piazza delle Erbe in the heart of Verona, Italy. It likely earned its name as it is surrounded by important buildings or “palazzos”. It is not as old as the Piazza delle Erbe – and it is perhaps less “electric”. However, the buildings that surround it are impressive from an architectural and historical standpoint.

Finding this lesser-known piazza

Coming from the Piazza delle Erbe, one enters the piazza through an alley above which hangs a large whale bone. Legend has it that it will fall once someone who has never lied walks under it. I have walked under it on two different visits to Verona and I can report it did not fall on me.

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Look up!

If you keep going you will enter the large piazza surrounded by interesting buildings, some cafes and a large open space with a statue at its center. Of course, the piazza has entries on all sides so it connects well to other parts of the old town.

The next photo is taken looking back from the Piazza dei Signori towards the alley where the whale bone hangs.

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Looking at the Palazzo della Raggione (left)

Important buildings all around

From the Loggia of the Council to a small church, the square is dotted by buildings that have housed administrative, political and judicial offices. They were built many centuries ago. For example, the Palazzo del Capitanio was built in the 14th century and the Loggia in the 15th. However, many of these buildings have undergone changes and renovations over the centuries, as can be expected. Their styles seem to differ enough to my untrained eye with the Loggia being more different than the others.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares

I would not call it a pretty square though it is charming enough. Verona’s Piazza delle Erbe or Krakow‘s main square, for example, best it in beauty and charm. But this piazza conveys well how these cities were run centuries ago through the history of these palazzos (OK, “palazzi” in proper Italian…).

One cool and grand staircase

The Palazzo della Ragione sits on the alley that connects the Piazza delle Erbe and the Piazza dei Signori. Construction of the palazzo started late in the 12th century but the building kept getting modified/added on for centuries. It evolved with the needs of the time. And it has served many purposes: political, administrative, and even commercial, hosting markets. Today the palazzo hosts a modern art museum and a district court.

The palazzo has an inner courtyard (also called Courtyard of the Old Market) with one of the most spectacular outdoors staircases I have seen in Italy: Scala della Ragione. I did not know to go find it. I just accidentally discovered it. The lesson from this is to pop in any open entranceway one runs into when exploring a town!

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares, torre lamberti, scalla della raggione

Climb and check out Verona from up high

If you have read other posts in this blog, you may have read that I enjoy climbing any tower or dome that gives me a great bird-eye’s view of any town.

Thankfully, the Palazzo della Ragione hosts the Torre dei Lamberti. This is the structure towering over the Scalla della Raggione in the photo above. This 84-meter tower offers a great 360 degree view of Verona. The tower was initially built in 1172 by the Lamberti family. If I understood right, it was made taller a little later (notice in the photo how it changes about halfway up).

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Looking down towards Piazza d. Signori towards the river
Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Piazza delle Erbe

The good news: there is an elevator for the climb so it is not all based on self-propulsion! And the ticket gives access to the modern art museum in the palazzo.

The main attraction: Dante Alighieri

As you can see, I discovered things I was unaware of. However, what drew me to this piazza was to see the statue to a famous guest resident of Verona: Dante Alighieri. Dante is Italy’s most pre-eminent poet and, possibly, of letters overall, not just poetry. The Divine Comedy with its hell, purgatory and heaven was written by an imaginative Dante in poetry form.

Dante, a Florentine by birth, exiled himself from his home town due to political drama. He never returned to Florence and is actually buried in Ravenna. At the 600th anniversary of his birth in the 19th century, the Veronese built the statue we now see in the piazza in his honor.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Dante with the Loggia of the Council behind him

There is a lot to see in Verona. This piazza, though not the most famous of the sites in Verona, is well worth the visit.

Dante, Dante, Where Are Thou? (As in Alighieri)

Dante Alighieri‘s Divine Comedy is a masterpiece of allegory, sharing with us the growth of the main character (Dante himself) as he traverses hell, purgatory and heaven. It has inspired many through the centuries (many centuries) since it was written. Including The Masquerade at Excelsior Mill in Atlanta with its three epic levels of hell, purgatory and heaven. But I digress.

Once an exile, always an exile

Dante was born in 1265 in Florence, Italy so he has been known for a LONG time. Due to politics (apparently, a nasty business not just in modern times), he had to flee his native town. Back then, Florence was a powerful republic, not just a city as we know it today.

He fled and took refuge in Verona, of Romeo and Juliet fame, where he is honored in a square – postcard #1.

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His Divine Comedy is a poem and I understand it is a brilliantly designed one in its original language: Italian. That -and a recent two-week trip- motivated me to learn Italian. I was able to actually hold conversations in Italian thanks to that effort. Though I am sure I butchered it a lot. In any case, he is the Shakespeare, the Cervantes of Italy and he pre-dates them. He is from the Middle Ages!

Death threat and actual death in Ravenna

Anyway, he was exiled on perpetuity and the pain of returning was being burned at the stake so one can understand why he did not return.

Sadly, he died at 56 of malaria in the Adriatic coastal city of Ravenna. Ravenna became an important city as Rome descended into chaos. It became capital of the Western Roman Empire in the early 5th century.

And that leads me to postcard #2 – his tomb in Ravenna. This tomb is from the 18th century. No, he did not live that long. Over the centuries, Florence regretted casting out this most famous of its sons and tried to get his remains back and even built a tomb. But, it remains empty as Ravenna has kept him all this time, even hiding his remains for some period of time to ensure they were not taken away. I think Ravenna should keep him…

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How to read the Divine Comedy

I hope this unusual post in my blog was entertaining if nothing else. And, if you have never read the Divine Comedy, I recommend you do it. But with some guide to explain it along as there are a lot of hidden meanings, parallels across stories in the book, etc. It is well worth discovering this gem of Middle Age (or any age) literature – and if you can do it in Italian, even better!

Hiking to the Best Views of the Dolomites: Lagazuoi

After spending a great night at Rifugio Kostner, who could be blamed for not wanting to leave such a cool spot? But, that is the trekking life, not staying in one spot.

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Red arrow points to our destination: Lagazuoi

Destination: Lagazuoi

So off we went to get to Lagazuoi, a mountain known as much for WW I history as for its beautiful setting. Lagazuoi sits at 9,301 ft – 2,835m, a short 18 kms from Cortina d’Ampezzo. The mountain had many tunnels dug by both sides (Italians and Austrians) as a way to protect themselves and/or try to surprise the opponent. All this land was part of the Austrian Empire until Italy attacked it early in WW I. You can read a little more about it here.

Starting the hike; bye Pordoi

We began the day with a great breakfast as is to be expected in these mountain rifugios (photo on my prior day’s post). Then, for the sake of getting to our next rifugio before sunset, took a little shortcut to come down from Pordoi: we took the chair lift down. Personally, saving a downhill is kindness to my knees so no complaints. And, like the day before, an easy start to a long day is nice.

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Headed up to the chair lift.
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One final look back at R. Kostner (middle left)

A different trail ahead

The start of the actual hike was very different than the rocky / pebbly trails of the prior day. I don’t know the technical terms for the landscape but low grasses and lots of green ruled the start of the day.

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Beautiful trails
sunrise, mountains, Dolomites, hiking, Italy, Italia
Time for a break and absorb the views!

Many spots offered a view back to Pordoi (and Rifugio Kostner, if I zoom into the photo). It is a neat way to see where we’d been. Later, we would be offered another, even better viewpoint to watch the sun set.

sunrise, mountains, Dolomites, hiking, Italy, Italia, rifugio Kostner
R. Kostner marked by the red circle

OK, some rocks

We still encountered rocky terrain but no massive downhill covered with scree. But the paths, hugging the rock walls, were simply enjoyable.

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dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking,
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking,
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, technical hiking
A few steps and rope were involved here but not too technical

Approaching Lagazuoi Mountain

We concluded the hike by approaching the Funivia Lagazuoi which would take us to the feet of our next lodging: Rifugio Lagazuoi.

My feet were pretty beat and I was in need of taking my boots off. When we reached the top, we still had a steep hill to climb but, guess what? That just made the big beer I got that much more savory!

dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, cable car
The view down from the ride; and the rifugio almost at hand…

Majestic views of the Dolomites

Lagazuoi also offered an outdoor deck with majestic views. This rifugio was bigger than the last one and the one from day 1. Many more rooms, a larger deck, and a much larger dining area. Our floor only had 2 showers for a large number of rooms so we took a number and just let each other know when their number was getting close to not lose the spot. Thankfully, no lack of hot water!

dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, rifugio in the dolomites
Part of the deck; my room was one of those balconies
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
We would reach the top of the mountain on the right to watch the sun set

Just a little more hiking at sunset

But the one thing that set this rifugio aside was fantastic vantage point to watch the sunset a short up-hill walk away. The sun would set over the Pordoi massif where we had hiked and stayed the day/night before.

dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
Looking back to the rifugio on the way to the spot
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
And now further away – what a setting!!!
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
At the top – what a beautiful spot
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset
The cross and the background made for a great photo!
And now posing the in the other direction! I look tired…
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, clouds, cloudporn,
This photo almost looks eerie… what do you see? I see an old woman’s head & hair
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, sky, skyporn, yellow sky
A fellow trekker just soaking it all in…
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset

It was a peaceful place and it was well worth the walk up to the spot, despite tired feet. I am sure you will agree after seeing the sunset pics.

Oh, wait, but the food…

Yes, the food was really good. The double-carb first plate was absolutely perfect. The main dish was a little less impressive but the dessert made up for it!

dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, food, pasta, risotto
First dish
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, sunset, food, main entree
The main entree
dolomites, hiking in italy, lagazuoi, trekking, apple strudel in Italy, dessert, sweets, foodporn
Perfect picture to end this post!

Stay tuned for the final posts about this trek in the Dolomites!

The Best of Venice – Get Lost in Its Neighborhoods

In a prior post, I shared some images of Venice‘s majestic boulevard: its Grand Canal. From the modern pedestrian bridge near the train station to the iconic Rialto Bridge to St. Mark’s Square – and many palazzos in between, that post showcased Venice but now, the best of Venice!

However, I enjoy Venice a lot more when I begin meandering the alleys and small piazzas “far” from the tourist areas anchored on the Grand Canal. I say far in quotation marks because Venice is not that big and you are never far from the Grand Canal given its grand meandering that always manages to disorient me. You think you may be at the opposite end of Venice if you judge by the Grand Canal’s route but then you look at a map and see that really are not far at all from the other end of Venice!

While tourist Venice can be overwhelming most times of the year with the crowds, its back alleys can be a different story. And you get to see more of how locals live – and remember Venice is a residential place, not just a tourist attraction for us visitors.

So, I stop writing here and share images of the Venice I love the most!

Venice’s Splendor Is Best Seen from Its Grand Canal

Venice must be one of the most photographed cities in the world and the views from the Grand Canal, the wildly curvy main thoroughfare of the city, are likely the main object of such photos. In this “postcard” post, I will share Venice’s splendor from its great waterway. Many of the buildings along the way are palazzos (or “palazzi” to be proper) that may serve now as hotels or museums.

In another post, I will share some images of what’s beyond this most touristy section of Venice. It is Venice’s back alleys and squares that fascinate me and really make the city appeal to me as a visitor.

But for now, enjoy the Grand Canal!

Venice's splendor, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel
Modernity greets you near the bus station

Though this is a postcard type of post (mainly photos), I will share that catching the number 1 vaporetto (or boat-bus) is the best way to get an intro for the new visitor – or a refresher for a third time visitor like me! It makes stops on both sides of the Grand Canal, making it also a great way to move around Venice quickly. But I suggest you take it from near the bus station and then ride it all along until one stop past St. Mark’s Square. Then meander your way around Venice walking back.

But look at a map, the Grand Canal weaves such that you may be closer to a point in the town by NOT following the water’s edge!

Venice's splendor, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel
Best way to get an intro to Venice: a boat ride
Venice, palazzo, palace, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Newlyweds in Venice
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
A great seat by the Rialto Bridge
Venice, palazzo, palace, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, palazzo, palace, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, palazzo, palace, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, palazzo, palace, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Not one of the most charming along the Grand Canal
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Delivery boat – by a square I had lunch in 2006!

Approaching St. Mark’s Square

Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Along the Grand Canal
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
View towards St. Mark’s Square from the Grand Canal
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
View of St. Mark’s Square from the Grand Canal
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Bridge of Sighs or Puente de los Suspiros in Venice
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
Along the Palazzo Ducale by St. Mark’s Square
Entering St. Mark’s Square
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
The side of St. Mark’s Cathedral
Venice, Venezia, Italia, Italy, Italie, Grand Canal, St. Mark, gondola, tourism, travel, architecture
The beautiful façade of St. Mark’s Cathedral

And, for the final photo, a photo of St. Mark’s Cathedral’s façade with yours truly trying to grace it!

It may look crowded but it’s the least crowded I’ve ever seen it!

Challenge in the Dolomites: Hiking the Rosengarten

My first day of hiking presented a neat challenge in the Dolomites taking us from Carezza / Karersee to Rifugio Passo Principe (Grasleitenpasshütte). There we would spend the night after traversing the iconic Rosengarten Massif, near Bolzano, Italy. The massif contains several peaks with its highest elevation being at 9,849 ft (3,002 m).

The trek started with our early AM departure from Trento, where we had spent a few days performing service projects with Trekking for Kids, to Carezza / Karersee where we would catch a ski lift (the Paolina lift) to the start of our trail.

Hiking route in the Rosengarten

The trails we followed were: 539 (from exiting the lift to the Christomannos Monument) to 549 (to Rifugo di Vael) to 541 (to Rifugio Vajolet) and then, finally, to trail 584 on to Rifugio Principe at Passo Principe. I could not show it as well in one single map so here I broke up the day’s hike into two maps.

Started on the lift on the bottom left and made our way upwards…
Starting from the bottom we ended at the top of the blue line

Where to stay: rifugios!

By the way, rifugios are mountain inns or lodges that offer basic accommodations and can provide dinner and breakfast for an additional cost – which I may add, is well worth it.

Some rifugios offer double rooms, some offer group rooms, and some offer both. Also, they may offer shower facilities with some of the places having very basic ones and charging a euro for a few minutes for their use, and some having very nice rooms and bathrooms.

However basic they can be (or not), I have to say all my meals were phenomenal and I will share those along the way in these posts!

Rifugio Principe, Passo Principe, lodging in the Dolomites
Dining area is cozy – and now Covid-ready
speck, german food, rifugio food
My dinner: speck with fried eggs on a bed of potatoes!

At Rifugio Principe (re-built/renovated around 2008), our group of 15 split into two group rooms of eight people each. The setup was not the typical bunk beds but four mattresses laid side-by-side: one set on the floor and one set above those. It was hard to sleep with so many people around but a little harder being so close to each other. Our room was the “outside” room which was supposed to be colder but was actually warm enough (they provide you some serious blankets but I actually did not use them and, instead, just used the sleeping bag liner I had brought with me and warm clothing).

rifugio principe, passo principe, hiking in the dolomites, lodging in the dolomites
Facing the “outside” room from the sun deck

The landscape & views around the Rosengarten Massif

Trekking Dolomites, chair lift in Italy
It starts with a chair lift!
Rosengarten, hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy
The best shot I have of the Rosengarten has me semi-posing…
Christomannos Monument, hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
The Christomannos Monument
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Beautiful trails; flat for this little stretch…

Uphill and Downhill ‘R Us

hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Slight ascent but still beautiful!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Sometimes the trails were the ones below and others up by the peaks!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
The trails got steep and rocky at places – massive uphills on this day!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Always good to hike with friends! I think these were The Beatles
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
And those massive uphills became massive downhills…
This must be after conquering an uphill due to my smile!
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
One serious downhill (but no scree on this one, mercifully)
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
And back on up. You get the drift.
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif
Despite the uphill ahead, the view was spectacular!

Let’s get technical

This day did offer a surprise: needing to cross a small section via steel cable. While it looked scarier than it actually was, I still paid attention to where every one of my 4 extremities was at every moment!

The ladders or cables were pretty new and sturdy. Some of the fighting in World War I took place around the Dolomites and, back then, cruder ladders and cables were used by the soldiers to move around – grateful things have improved since then (and are more peaceful!).

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From the top: Going down the rope-assisted path
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
From the middle: The steel cable was well anchored and the “rope” pretty thick
From the bottom: The drop was not too big – but glad no one had a mis-step!

A mirage or our rifugio?

Well, along the way, it is not uncommon to pass rifugios which are not our destination. Normally OK as it means we are taking a break. But not always… Sometimes you pass them like passing ships at sea… After a long, long climb, the rifugio on the photo below would have been a GREAT stop. However, and thankfully unbeknownst to me, we had a lot longer to go so a leisurely stop would have place our arrival at our rifugio at dark… So on we went with more uphill terrain as you can appreciate from the picture… No matter how tired I got, the view was always magnificent!

hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
Rifugio Vajolet
hiking Dolomites, trekking, Italy, Rosengarten massif, technical hike
This was the uphill BEFORE that rifugio we didn’t stop at 🙂

End of day 1 hike at Rifugio Principe

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This one was OUR rifugio for the night!! Happy to arrive! (Photo credit: K. Sundin)

We covered around 7.5 miles after a mid-morning start and around 6 hours of hiking. The group took a little longer than expected, likely the change in altitude from where we had woken up (Trento, at slightly more than 600 ft elevation) to where we ended (at around 8,600 ft). But, I for one was ecstatic about finishing what was a hard last 2 hours of that day’s hike!


Read about day 2, its tricky start and getting to the Sassolungo!

St. Paul Outside the Walls: Rome’s Less Seen Basilicas

As one may expect, Rome does not lack in the church category.  All types and sizes up to the best know, St. Peter’s Basilica in The Vatican.  However, there are three other major basilicas in Rome:  St. John Lateran (first among the four for being the oldest), Saint Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore), and St. Paul Outside the Walls (Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura)As the term “major basilica” implies, they are of high importance to the Catholic Church and any other basilica is just “a” basilica or a minor basilica.

As with St. Peter’s and St. Peter, St. Paul Outside the Walls was built is on top of the site where St. Paul was buried.  The original church was built in the fourth century and it got built on and modified up until the nineteenth century when a fire destroyed a good bit of it and it got reconstructed.  The modifications it went through in those 1400 years were done for different reasons:  fortifying it against potential invaders, repairing damage, beautifying it, or simply making it larger.

Of the original church only a couple of things remain (the triumphal arch with its fifth century mosaics, and part of the apse).  But it was other details that grabbed my attention.

First, was the images of all the Popes right above the top of the columns.  It really gives a great sense of the longevity of the Church.

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Popes’ likenesses on the friezes

Second, how uninviting the exterior is (at least on the sides), hiding the interior beauty of this church.

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Exterior of the basilica

Third, to me it seem a different style of architecture for a church.  I suppose this derives from the fact that its design goes back to a very old design even if it was modified through the centuries.  So it may not be a design that is odd but one that I am not familiar with.

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The facade and statue of St. Paul
St. Paul Outside the Walls, facade, Rome, Italy, Catholic Church, major basilica, statue, mosaics, photo, travel, colonnade, columns
Colonnade to the side of the basilica’s facade; note the garden that sits in front of the facade.

Fourth, the colonnade inside the church (around 80 columns is pretty spectacular.

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The beautiful colonnade and what I assume are marble floors

Fifth, the stucco ceilings which are so beautifully decorated.

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Some of the beautiful ceilings at SPOTW
Rome, St. Paul, Outside The Walls, fuori le mura, major basilica, Catholic Church, travel, photo, Italy,, ceiling, stucco
Some of the beautiful ceilings at SPOTW

Finally, the altar and the tabernacle on it are beautiful crowns over the tomb of St. Paul.  One can take a few stops down to see the chains that held St. Paul prisoner in Rome.

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Tabernacle at the altar, and, in the background, mosaics dating from the 13th century
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Top of the tabernacle and the ceiling in the background
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St. Paul’s chains

St. Paul Outside the Walls is away from the beaten path of central Rome that most tourists stick to but it is an easy subway ride from that part of Rome.  Whether due to your faith, your interest in architecture, simple curiosity or only trying to get away from the crowds, it is well worth checking out.

What lesser known bits of Rome have you visited?  Any recommendations?

Scenes of Easter Mass at St. Peter’s Square

Monticchiello: Charm in the Middle of Tuscany

A few years ago, in one of my trips to Italy, we spent a few days in Tuscany.   We opted to rent apartments in a small mountaintop town called Monticchiello, a charming place, sandwiched between Pienza and Montepulciano (lucky folks!!!).  Montecchiello, Tuscany, La Toscana, Italy, Italia, food, pasta, truffles, Palm Sunday, photos, travel, exploring

We truly lucked out:  the town was quaint, quite small, and its location was central and offering greats views. The place we stayed at was an awesome building a few hundreds of years old (but, the landlady mis-led us in terms of it sleeping all of us – I ended on a cot by the dining room).

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What a real person’s room looked like in that apartment!

A meal to remember

One of its gems was the only restaurant up there, aptly named Osteria La Porta (the gate).  There was a wait so we went to stand outside.  Not a few minutes later, the owner came out with a bottle of wine and five glasses for us to entertain ourselves with, courtesy of the house.  Yea, like THAT would happen in the U.S.!  We immediately knew we were at the right place.

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THE right place!

And we were not disappointed.  We made it inside and began studying the menu.  However, the waiter advised us that the pasta with truffle was very special.  That was a plate with no meat of any sort.  Just fresh pasta, fresh truffles, and a trickle of plain butter sauce.  I decided that if it was being recommended, I ought to try despite its lack of meat or any veggies I normally like (mushrooms do not fall under that category).  It was simply a superb dish.  I can safely say top 5 ever eaten by me without any fear of exaggeration.

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5 very happy campers

A special coincidence

We traveled to Italy during Holy Week which led to a few opportunities for good timing to happen.  Such was that Sunday at Monticchielo:  we were there on Palm Sunday.  We went to church that Sunday and it was neat to hear Mass in Italian.  But  bigger surprise awaited us:  the procession around town.  All 40  or 50 of us followed the priest around this neat little town.  I normally don’t spend enough time researching places to find out if there are local events that could be of interest – I just explore once I get somewhere.  Maybe I have missed some things with this approach but, I have to say, it makes running into these local situations so much more fun.

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The faithful getting their palms before the procession

Monticchiello, Tuscany, La Toscana, Italy, Italia, Palm Sunday, Church, Catholic

The priest leading the procession

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Walking down the narrow streets of Monticchiello

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Headed back in to the church at the end of the procession

What experiences have you had were you as pleasantly surprised while traveling?  (Except the part about me in a cot next to a kitchen!)

Photo of the Week: Viewing Venice from my Window Seat

Venice, Italy is such a unique place.  It is almost out of Disney’s mind.  But it is not.  It is truly unique and a sight worth seeing once in your life.  I have been fortunate not only to have seen it, but to have been there twice.  It can be a maddening place with the crowd of peers (read:  fellow visitors) but it is also a great place to get lost to get far away from the tourists.

In my second visit there, I actually flew from the U.S. direct to Venice.  And that gave me this incredible bird’s eye view of my destination from my window seat.  Forget jet lag, this sight can restore anyone’s energy!Venice, Venezia, Italy, Italia, landing, airport, travel, photo

Photo of the Week: Two Sides of the Coin

While visiting St. John Lateran in Rome, Italy, I ran into a group of tourists posing in front of the basilica (it is one of the four main basilicas in Rome, along with St. Peter, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. Paul Outside the Walls; however, it is the oldest and actually has the highest rank of the four).  Could not resist to capture -and share- the two sides of the “coin” I ran into…St. John Lateran, Rome, Italia, Italy, Roma, tourist group, photo, Canon EOS RebelSt. John Lateran, Rome, Italia, Italy, Roma, tourist group, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

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