Cross-Country Drive Day 3 – From the Grand Canyon to Amarillo, Texas

A brief summary of day 3 of my cross-country drive: Grand Canyon to Amarillo, Texas, begins with the stats!

Stats of the drive

Third day: Grand Canyon National Park (GCNP) in Arizona to Amarillo, Texas

Routes taken: Route 64 (south) to I-40 east, crossing New Mexico

Departure time: 6:20AM (Pacific time in Arizona)

Arrival time: 7:20PM (Central time in Amarillo)

License plates spotted: 43 (two days in a row! oddly for the proximity, we did not see Arkansas)

A Grand Canyon sunrise with deer

One key benefit of staying right there was the ease of getting to see the Grand Canyon at sunrise. Not that getting up for a 5:15AM daybreak was easy but, certainly, a ton easier than if I had been outside of the GCNP. In fact, I am pretty sure I would NOT have done the sunrise thing if it required an hour drive before 5:15AM!

sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona

Needless to say, I was not the only one out admiring the sun’s rise. A few deer accompanied us right between the lodge and the edge of the path though they seemed more interested in the grass than the colors of the canyon walls!

Thunderbird Lodge, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, deer
A tourist at the Grand Canyon

Driving through New Mexico to get to Amarillo, Texas

Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest
Non-descript terrain for a good part
Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest, new mexico roadside diner
Diner at Grants, NM, right before the duststorm part of the drive
Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest, new mexico
So long New Mexico, I hardly knew ya!
Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest, welcome to texas
Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest, wind farm, windmill

The windmills above are not properly given justice by this photo. The line of windmills we encountered sometime after crossing into Texas lasted miles and there were multiple rows well beyond the right side of the photo. It was an amazing amount of windmills. As big as everything is in Texas!

Steak night at the Big Texan

And speaking about big in Texas, the Big Texan enters the picture. We stayed next door and ventured to this place famous for its challenge to anyone who dares…

It says ranch but I saw no cows, alive that is!

The challenge is to eat a 72-ounce piece of steak, cooked to order, along with all the sides pictured below in one hour. If you eat it all, besides the stomach ache I imagine ensues, you get the meal for free. Otherwise, you pay $72. We saw two guys get up on the stage to try it but we did not stay to see the drama finish…

Grand Canyon to Amarillo, steakhouse, famous steak, great drives, road trip southwest

I opted for a more modest 8-ounce steak with broccoli!

And with that delicious steak ended day 3 covering the width of New Mexico and parts of Arizona and Texas!

Cross-Country Drive Day 2 – Kingman to the Grand Canyon

Stats of the drive

Second day: Kingman, Arizona to the Grand Canyon National Park (GCNP)

Routes taken: I-40 east to Route 89 north (around Flagstaff) to Route 64 west (at Cameron) to hit the eastern entrance to the GCNP

Departure time: 9AM

Arrival time: 3PM

License plates spotted: 43 states (somehow I suspect the gravity pull of the Grand Canyon had something to do with this success!)

sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66, route 89
Along Route 89

A simple plan

The trip’s plan included spending an overnight at the Grand Canyon National Park and enjoying the beautiful views. The drive from Kingman to the GCNP was going to be only about 3 hours so we planned for a late start this day. This would give us a break from early starts that would characterize the entire roadtrip.

sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66

Maximizing the Grand Canyon experience

Since we only had an afternoon and an evening (we would leave early the next morning), we splurged by staying right at the rim of the Grand Canyon. For those who have not been there, if you stay at hotels outside of the GCNP, you have about an hour’s drive (or more) for most of them. So that would be a 2-hr roundtrip in and out lost in driving.

We stayed at the Thunderbird Lodge on the edge of the canyon and got a partial view of the Grand Canyon. It was a spectacular setting despite the view being partial.

Thunderbird Lodge, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona
The view from the ground floor of Thunderbird Lodge

Sunset light at the Grand Canyon

sunset, grand canyon, el tovar, arizona, national park
sunset, grand canyon, el tovar, arizona, national park
sunset, grand canyon, el tovar, arizona, national park
sunset, grand canyon, el tovar, arizona, national park
Looking east towards El Tovar

But let’s not forget about Kingman

So I just spent telling you about day 3’s sunrise but did not tell you about day 2’s sunrise…

Being that my body was still on Eastern time, I woke up sometime in the 4AM range. First thinking my options were TV or reading, I promptly concluded that it would be good to get some exercise in even if mild. Also, I figured I should try to see some of the town but driving was the last thing I wanted to do. So, I just went for a 45-min walk which also overlapped sunrise.

Our hotel (a very nice Best Western) was right on historic Route 66 so I got to walk some of it seeing the police and fire stations and a few business. I also walked the streets of a middle class neighborhood right behind Route 66 but dogs would bark and being still the wee hours, I felt it a little rude of me to disturb the peace so I went back to Route 66 – to get some of the kicks the famous song promises!

sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
Past glories of Route 66
sunrise, Grand Canyon, rim view, Arizona, route 66
Calling Agent 86!

Now, let’s go on to day 3!

Missed the start of the cross-country drive? Check out the San Jose to Kingman drive!

Cross-Country Drive Day 1 – San Jose, CA to Kingman, AZ

Last week I got to do the longest drive I have ever done: 5 days going from San Jose, California to Atlanta, Georgia. Why? I volunteered to help friends drive back to Atlanta as they leave California. It was not only a great opportunity to spend time together but also to see my country in a very different way of traveling: on the road!

Stats of the drive

First day: San Jose, California to Kingman, Arizona

Routes taken: California 101 to California 152 to I-5 to California 58 to I-40.

Departure time: 7AM

Arrival time: 4PM

License plates spotted: 30 states + 4 Canadian provinces (incl. Nova Scotia!)

Intra-California leg: San Jose to Bakersfield

Day 1 saw us departing San Jose, as you saw above, at 7AM. As I had arrive the night before from the East coast, that was not too early for me at all.

San Jose, window seat, California, great drive

Car loaded, we took some back roads (routes 101 and 152) to get onto I-5 at Los Banos. On the way there, we passed the town of Gilroy, which I am told is the world capital of garlic. Garlic IS in the air, even when the windows in the car are closed. Wikipedia says it is “the southernmost city in the San Francisco Bay area” but that seems a REAL geographical stretch to me (maybe it is a geological thing). Don’t believe everything you read! (The irony of that statement is not lost on me…) In any case, there were a large variety of crops like walnuts, almonds, and others confirming that this Central Valley indeed is a key source of produce.

I-5, I must say, is one tedious interstate to drive with the trucks and high volume of vehicles. I was glad when we got off it to head towards Bakersfield where we would take route 58 on the way to connecting with I-40 which would carry us, not only to the state border, but eventually all the way to Amarillo, Texas.

California Central Valley, produce, onion, trucks, cross-country drive

Southeastern California, Barstow and Route 66

After passing well-known Edwards Air Force Base, soon enough we hit our lunch stop at the crossroads of I-15 and one of the endpoints of I-40: the town of Barstow, California, right on Route 66. It was our first stop on Route 66. We were not trying to stick to Route 66 as we had days of driving to do but it was cool, at a couple of places, to see this famous route that carried so many out west in the 20th century.

Route 66, California, great drive, cross-country drive
Route 66, cross-country drive, California, Barstow
Barstow

To get to the border with Arizona, we first had to pass the Mojave area with the eponymous desert, Edwards AFB, and other facilities for military training and logistics. We also saw the lot where many airplanes are parked to not clutter airport space – it was odd to see so many planes in the middle of nowhere!

Hot Needles packing heat

It was a peculiar area and, of course, very hot. Temperatures hit 108F (42C). We thought that was outlandish but we were about to learn how reasonable 108F was.

As we took a southward turn on I-40 to go below Goose Lake

map, Goose Lake, Parker Junction, Needles
I-40 goes around the lake making a “U” that, on the right, will hit Kingman, AZ

… we passed the town of Needles and reached 120F (49C).

needles, california, extreme weather

Yea, that was hot; the car windows were very hot to the touch – from the inside of the air conditioned car… “Needles” to say (LOL), we did not get out of the car… But we enjoyed the views as usual.

Colorado River, route 66, cross-country drive, Arizona, California
Crossing the Colorado River between Needles and Kingman

The road traveled

We made it to Kingman where we stayed in the central (and older) part of town; more on that in the next post). We stayed at a Best Western that re-defined that brand for me – I was impressed with the cleanliness and freshness of the room and other facilities (I got nothing from saying that – that is just sharing my experience with you!).

To wrap up day 1, I will share a couple of pictures from the road and the vistas of southeastern California.

Southeastern California, route 66, cross-country drive
Southeastern California, route 66, cross-country drive
Finally in Arizona and a short drive left to Kingman!

Let’s see what happened and what was the destination on day 2 of this cross-country drive!

Christmas Time in Strasbourg – A Beautiful Sight

One of Europe’s capitals is not the capital of a country. It is one of the capitals of a union that is not a country: the European Union. Strasbourg, currently sitting in France, is one of those capitals, along with Brussels. It sits sort of in the middle of France’s border with Germany, who formally owned the land where Strasbourg. Strasbourg is a stone’s throw away the border, so to speak. It has been a complicated life for Alsace and its main city, Strasbourg…

Palais de l'Europe, Palace of Europe, Strasbourg
Palais de l’Europe (Palace of Europe – sounds self-promoting…)

A Christmas market cruise tour decision

When I first looked at my Rhine Christmas market cruise’s itinerary, I was excited to see so many neat places on the list (check this post for tips and places to experience on this cruise). Strasbourg, in particular, was an appealing stop in the cruise. It may bewilder some who know me but I opted for a walking city tour instead of –gasp– a wine tasting session of the region’s famous wines. I cringed at having to choose but I definitely wanted to explore the city; I could always buy Alsatian wines and taste at home, no??

Entering the town

We approached the city’s heart via the Ponts Couverts bridge which offers views of beautiful buildings of traditional architecture of the region.

Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France
13th century towers
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France, Alsatian architecture
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture

Most charming was the structure on the tiny island on the Quai du Woerthel with the tiniest of walkways to it from the bridge.

Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture
Next picture shows the path from the bridge…
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture
Narrow – and clearly not used often

Lunch in Strasbourg

I chose well. We started with the small-group guided walking tour but we broke away from it at some point to have meal in a local restaurant that had been recommended (“Le Tire-bouchon” – or corkscrew). A small, tightly-packed placed that , yet, had a spot for our even-smaller group.

typical Alsatian meal, France, Strasbourg, Tire-bouchon

The dessert was my favorite dessert ever: chocolate mousse. And I knew ahead of time, I was not sharing with the table… (OK, my Mom got a spoonful, after all, she brought me to this world!) It was SPECTACULAR!

chocolate mousse, Tire-bouchon, Strasbourg, Alsace, foodie
How does one say “Don’t touch it” in French?

After lunch, my Mom and I broke off (yet again) from the smaller group and meandered on our own.


Christmas decorations in Strasbourg’s streets

Words can’t describe how beautiful and festive the side streets were. It was all as if out of a dream, beyond what Disney could achieve in any of its parks! The charming and beautiful buildings were purely out of a story book.

Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg

Calling what we looking at “architecture” sounds pretentious. But it is also over-simplifying what we were looking at. The storefronts and buildings aim to out-decorate each other and they manage to do so without looking gaudy – French style reigning supreme!

Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s Notre Dame Cathedral

We walked into Strasbourg’s magnificent, medieval, one-towered, rose Cathedral of Notre-Dame to check it out. It seems to have taken 250 years to get built, finishing in the first half of the 15th century. Before America was discovered…

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Almost impossible to get a full shot of the front of the Cathedral

Its interior is something to explore for sure – worth the line!

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame

Its astronomical clock is supposed to be worth seeing in action – something we missed.

Strasbourg cathedral, astronomical clocl

As the day progresses, light hits the Cathedral’s pink sandstone exterior differently and it feels like its façade changes color.

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame

Of course, the exterior around Christmas time is also wrapped by the many Christmas market stands that make the city both a beautiful and festive place to visit at this special time of the year!

Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo
Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo
Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo

Joyeux Noël!!

Strasbourg, Estrasburgo, feliz Navidad, Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël

Guide for Seeing California’s Redwoods

Redwoods are among the most impressive living organisms in this planet. And not only due to their height. They are certainly impressive as the tallest trees, growing upwards of 350 ft at their highest – think of that, like a 30+ storied building! But also due to how they grow, fuse, and survive fires.

A few months ago, I spent four days with a friend exploring the redwood groves in different parks in the northern California area seeing old-growth and less old-growth areas. I thought it could be helpful to trip planners out there to share some of how we did the trip and what factors played into the different decisions to make about such a trip.

First, some info on the redwoods…

About the coastal redwoods

The redwoods I got to visit are called ‘coastal redwoods‘ which differentiates them from other related trees broadly called redwoods (like sequoias). These coastal redwoods are only found in the northern part of California / southern Oregon.

These trees can be a couple of thousand of years old which is mind-boggling. (Heck, a 500-year old tree would be mind-boggling!) For example, the redwood known as Big Tree is 1,500 years old.

Where to see the redwood trees

As mentioned above, southern Oregon / northern California is the area to go. But it seems the California side will be richer and have more options in terms of landscape, accessibility and “format” (trails vs. walks vs. drives).

In terms of seeing redwoods, I think it is important to explore multiple areas as there is a different feel for the trees and their environment, depending on where you are. There are multiple parks in the area (one national one and several state ones) to choose from. We hit them all (read more below!)

How the forests can be different

I am not an expert on redwoods but I felt differences in what I saw across the parks and areas.

One thing that may affect the forest seemed to be how close the forest was to the water versus one further inland (they don’t grow too far inland as the climate changes and they need tons of moisture).

While the forests we saw in the different parks look more or less alike, we did notice variations in trunk color. We were unclear on whether that made it a variant of the tree, or if it was just like eye color for humans but we did notice the difference.

redwood forest, california redwoods, hiking, nature trails,
Lush forest floor – lots of humidity!

Also, some areas can be more likely to produce taller trees depending on the level of moisture and ability of the trees to compete with each other.

The terrain of the forest can make a difference at least in how one perceives the tree. While there was almost no entirely flat forest in the trails we explored, some (like the Damnation Creek trail) seem to offer different vantage points vis-a-vis the trees. For example, at some points in that trail, there were higher areas around us so we got to look up not only at the tree but even at the base of the tree; whereas at other points, we were maybe at an elevation already a third up the height of some trees whose bases were way below the edge of the trail.

Finally, the ground level under the canopy did vary a bit based on terrain and probably location and thickness of canopy. In some spots, ferns and/or clover dominated the forest floor; in others, it was more open/clear.

The redwood parks in northern California

The key parks we looked into and did were the ones closest to the area framed roughly by Crescent City in the north and Myers Flat in the south. These parks/areas were:

  • Del Norte State Park
  • Jedediah Smith State Park
  • Prairie Creek State Park
  • Redwood National Park
  • Humboldt Redwoods State Park

I will write more about some of the hikes we did but we got to visit all of these via hikes and some walks, and driving a couple of scenic roads (Newton B. Drury and Avenue of the Giants).

How to get to redwood country

One of the key questions was how to get to the region. Flying into larger cities like Portland and Sacramento would require some drive time. Flying into smaller airports (e.g., Medford, OR) could shorten the drive time but potentially cost more or not have ideal flight times.

We opted to land in Portland for ease of schedule and maximizing our arrival day. We understood there was a lot to also see between northern Oregon and northern California and we thought it’d be worth 2-3 days devoted to that as we made our way south. We ended up going NW of Portland to see famous Cannon Beach, then head inland to wine country in the Willamette Valley and then heading back out to the coast to drive the remainder of the beautiful Oregon coast.

In terms of returning, not wanting to backtrack, a flight out of Medford fit the time and cost parameters and it greatly saved us drive time so we opted for that.

Planning the route or itinerary

With the broader question of how many days we had to use and the in/out destinations, we could move on to pinning down the general itinerary. For reasons of car rental costs, we started in Portland vs. Medford. Though we were headed south, there was a detour northwest of Portland that I had heard was a must-see: Cannon Beach. So, Cannon Beach became stop number one.

Oregon hike, waterfalls, Munson Creek falls
Munson Creek Falls – a short stop after leaving Cannon Beach

Next, we could opt for driving down the Oregon coast to reach the parks we were targeting. Or… sampling some wines first. So, the Willamette Valley became stop number two, if only for 2 nights and 1 day… In doing some research, McMinnville sounded like a town in the area with enough going on so it became stop number two for a couple of nights.

In continuing south, we wanted to see more of the Oregon coast as we had heard and read good things about it. The alternative was taking the slightly faster I-5 highway but missing out on the coast. So, the Oregon coast (highway 101) and the many sights along the way became a continuous “stop”, stop number three.

At this juncture, the option would be to stop upon entering California to overnight and sort of work our way south through the parks, or drive all the way to the southernmost over-nighting destination and backtrack up instead. But driving along the Pacific Scenic Highway (route 101) would take a long time and it would already be a long day at that point. So we opted to make the first town on the California coast (Crescent City) stop number four.

sunset, California sunset, beach, Crescent City, colorful sky, atardecer
Sunset at Crescent City

The next day we would begin our hikes at Jedediah Smith State Park and Del Norte State Park: Boy Scout Trail and Damnation Creek Trail, respectively. Along the way, we would drive the Newton B. Drury Scenic Highway, instead of the 101 highway to enjoy the beauty of the forests in a more “intimate” (read: less trafficked) route.

After those two hikes and scenic drive, we would make our way south to McKinleyville (not to be confused with McMinnville!) and Trinidad to overnight for four nights and hence, becoming our next stops, let’s call them stops number five and six.

In between those nights, the first day we would schedule our hike on the Tall Trees Trail (which requires a permit ahead of time as only 50 vehicles are allowed on any given day). In addition, we would do the loop involving Prairie Creek Trail and Cathedral Trees Trail, right by the Prairie Creek State Park Visitor Center. After those hikes, on the following day, we would hit Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt State Park and do some short, easy walks.

At that point, we were going to begin the march back north to reach Crater Lake National Park which became stop number 7. However, there was considerable distance to cover so it took a good part of a day to reach the area, where we would spend one day at the park and two nights around the area.

Our final stop was to be the town of Medford itself since we had a very early flight to return home. Though not a target of the trip itself, it became our final stop, stop number 8.

Things to know about visiting the redwood parks

While the core part of this trip to explore the redwoods was to be a hiking trip, one does not have to be a hiker to get to enjoy the redwood forests. Trails like Cathedral Tree Trail (where one can run into nearby Big Tree) is easy enough for most to walk through. Also, the many small stops (Rockefeller or Forest Grove in Avenue of the Giants) are really just walks.

I may not be tall but these are super tall trees!

For the hiker, there are endless trails and combinations of trails. Some are in-and-out trails, some are loops, and some can be combined to create long hikes (as when we connected Miners’ Ridge Trail with Gold Bluffs Beach, and James Irvine Trail). The more daring can even add river crossings (only possible in the summer) to some of the routes. It is a veritable endless menu of hikes and trails for beginners or experts.

Certainly there are campgrounds and the like in the area and I would just refer you to the various parks’ own websites for more details on those. I found the National Park Service and the California State Parks made a lot of information available on the Internet, including detailed maps.

I will try to share in other posts about each of the hikes or walks we did. I will add links to this post as those posts are published!

How to Explore Crater Lake National Park

Oregon is known for many great landscapes from its magnificent coast to the Cascade Mountains, to the Willamette Valley, to the Columbia River Gorge, etc. But one of its most spectacular sights has to be Crater Lake.

Crater Lake, since 1902 part of Crater Lake National Park, serves as witness to the incredible story of earth’s forces at work. Mount Mazama, the original volcano on that site, blew up about 7,700 years ago. The top of the volcano collapsed inward after all the contents spewed out (non-technical terms!) and created a caldera that has filled up with water since then from rain and snow melt.

Crater Lake, Mount Scott, hiking Crater Lake, Oregon, outdoors, nature. exploring Oregon
View towards the west from Mt. Scott

The lake is between 4.5-6 miles across and about 1,943 ft deep. It is considered the deepest lake in North America. And another bit of trivia: it holds almost 5 TRILLION gallons of water. Lots of H2O.

Though no streams flow out of this lake, the water level remains fairly constant because water does seep out or gets absorbed. The water has very little in terms of sediment flowing in (again, no streams feeding it) which helps give it its unique color. It is an intense, beautiful, entrancing blue.

Do the Crater Lake rim drive!

Today, one can drive all around the rim of the lake, a 33-mile drive, dotted with stopping points offerings great views all around the volcano’s caldera. Well, one can as long as it is between mid-October and June as the road closes the rest of the year due to snow… There are two entrances to the park, one approaching the park from the south via route 62, and another from the north.

Crater Lake National Park map, Oregon, national park service, hiking in Crater Lake, overlooks in Crater Lake
In red ovals, some of the places mentioned

We came in through the southern entrance which is where Park Headquarters and the Visitor Center are located. This southern shore of the lake hosts the Rim Village with an overlook, café, and Crater Lake Lodge (which was closed during my visit thanks to Covid).

Let me share with you the places I explored in my visit along this great drive and let you decide which offered the best views of this incredible lake. Hopefully these suggestions will help you plan your own visit!

Phantom Ship Overlook

We did the rim drive counterclockwise. Starting from the southern entrance in this direction, the first part of the drive is a long of windy road with no views of the lake for the most part but still a beautiful ride. Sometimes the curves do not have guardrails so mind your driving!

But soon, than changes and the rest of the rim drive is mostly just going around the edge of the crater. That means lots of great places to stop to admire the beauty of the lake and see it from another angle.

The first stop we made was at the Phantom Ship Overlook. There are a couple of stops you can make before this one (Sun Notch which offers a nice direct view down to Phantom Ship, and Dutton Cliff) but we decided to make Phantom Ship Overlook our first stop. Phantom Ship is a tiny island on the southern side of the lake – quite photogenic, especially with the trees on the edge of the lookout framing the view nicely.

Phantom Ship, island in Crater Lake, hiking in Oregon, Crater Lake National Park
Phantom Ship, island in Crater Lake, hiking in Oregon, Crater Lake National Park

After the Phantom Ship Overlook come a couple of small stops: Pumice Castle and Cloudcap Overlook (which looks straight due west onto Wizard Island in the opposite side of the lake). Nice, brief stops and – as usual – with views that do not disappoint.

Mt. Scott: The highest point at Crater Lake

There are a few mountains or peaks rising out of the area around the rim at Crater Lake. Mount Scott offers the tallest point around Crater Lake, and is a great hike taking you to 8,929 ft. The hike is about 4.5 miles round-trip.

Crater Lake hikes, hiking Mount Scott, Crater Lake park in Oregon, trails in Crater Lake
Mount Scott, tallest point in Crater Lake, hiking in Crater Lake
Cleetwood Cove, Mt. Scott hike,  Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
Nice zig-zags!

Though steep (the elevation gain is 1,200 ft), it is a beautiful path and doable without gear (though I always carry my hiking pole to ensure my knee is not pounded too much!).

Crater Lake hikes, hiking Mount Scott, Crater Lake park in Oregon, trails in Crater Lake
Nice day with clear views!

It is a neat hike and one gets rewarded with a nice short walk at the top with many spots for photo opps while making one’s way to the peak itself.

Crater Lake hikes, hiking Mount Scott, Crater Lake park in Oregon
I think the lake is that way. Or the other… No Columbus here!

And the peak area is not a bad place to eat your lunch while soaking in the views!

Crater Lake hikes, hiking Mount Scott, Crater Lake park in Oregon, trails in Crater Lake
Taking a break for the view!
Crater Lake hikes, hiking Mount Scott, Crater Lake park in Oregon, trails in Crater Lake
Brought my family with me, as usual 🙂

Skell Head Overlook

After getting off Mt. Scott, a good stop to follow is the Skell Head Overlook.

Skell Head overlook, Grotto Cove, Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking
Grotto Cove on the right and towards Cleetwood Cove (not visible here)

Plenty of parking and space to – once again – soak the views of the lake and have some photos snapped (always better than a selfie!).

Skell Head overlook, Grotto Cove, Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking

Cleetwood Cove Trail – swim in the lake!

For those wanting to jump in the water, there is only one spot where it is legal to jump into the lake. And it requires a steep 1.1-mile down hike (with the corresponding 1.1-mile steep hike back up…) so it may not be for everyone. If it is up for you, know that the elevation difference is 700 ft. This is what the hike looks like:

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim, hike map
The vertical line at the top is walking across the parking lot!

It is worth noting this is one of the best parking areas on this northern and eastern parts of the rim. Two structures at either end of the large parking lot offer restroom facilities though be ready for the basic type of restrooms… Plenty of parking for a busy August day so that certainly was well-thought out for this most popular stop on Crater Lake’s rim road.

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
The trail is mostly shaded but not always

Once down there, there is no sand beach. Just lots of rocks to climb over and then to walk on to get into the full water. There is one spot down there from where it is allowed to jump into the water and save the rock walking (well, you have to do those to get out of the water). I suggest wearing water shoes as the rocks under water can be slippery but you may feel safer with your naked feet.

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
Beautiful water colors – and lots of rocks
Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
The beautiful water lies… it’s coooold!

In mid-August the water just completely freezing so not sure how it feels at the beginning or the end of the season, though I imagine it likely does not change much… I waited for my buddy to try the water before I went in. I sloooowly made my way in…

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim

I went in but there was a strong current right by the rocks so I stayed in the water on the rocks. “Stayed” is a generous term equivalent to no more than 10 seconds. But I got my hair wet! Then, I laid back on those warm rocks to cool and dry off. Very nice!

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
“Raul on the rocks”

Of course, the hike up was work but I didn’t carry much with me save water and a couple of other things in the small backpack.

Cleetwood Cove, swimming in Crater Lake, Oregon, hiking in Crater Lake, outdoors, cold water swim
Just. Don’t. Look. Up. While. Going. Up.

Merriam Point

Merriam Point is a small stop as the rim drive continues. It is also the point at which the northern entrance to Crater Lake National Park hits the rim road. It is a good point to look southward toward Wizard Island, which will be much closer on the next stop on the route…

Crater Lake, National Park, Wizard Island, panoramic view, hiking, Oregon hiking, great outdoors
Awesome panorama view of the lake and Wizard Is.
Crater Lake, National Park, Wizard Island, panoramic view, hiking, Oregon hiking, great outdoors
A very short walk to the viewpoint

Watchman Overlook and Watchman Peak

A short drive south of Merriam Point is Watchman Overlook. Watchman Overlook is almost at the westernmost point of the lake and was our final stop that day on the Crater Lake rim drive.

Crater Lake, Oregon, National Park Service, deepwater lake, deepest lake, Watchman Peak, Watchman Overlook, rock formation at Crater Lake
View looking left from Watchman Overlook

Watchman Overlook offers a great vantage point to see the lake and Wizard Island. And, for those inclined to tackle a good incline, it also offers a hiking trail up to Watchman Peak.

Crater Lake, Oregon, National Park Service, deepwater lake, deepest lake, Watchman Peak
Watchman Peak and the trail as seen from Watchman Overlook

It is a 0.8-mile walk up a steep path but the view is a very nice reward.

Crater Lake, Oregon, National Park Service, deepwater lake, deepest lake, Watchman Peak trail
The trail
Crater Lake, Oregon, National Park Service, deepwater lake, deepest lake, Watchman Peak, hiking Crater Lake
Excellent view of Wizard Island from the peak

After Watchman Overlook, had we had more time that day, we would have gone towards the lodge where a trail goes to the top of Garfield Peak which, at 8,054 ft, is just slightly taller than Watchman Peak. Garfield Peak is on the south edge of the lake so it would have offered a totally different vantage point so you may want to check it out. Of course, you don’t have to climb the peak to see the views north as the Rim Village would offer a similar view but just from rim level.

If you have not gathered yet, I thoroughly enjoyed Crater Lake National Park and all the views and activities that if offers. I have not visited many of our national parks but they are certainly a great treasure and I hope to be planning visits more often than I have before!

Crater Lake, Oregon, National Park Service, deepwater lake, deepest lake, cobalt blue water
Goodbye, Crater Lake

11 Places to See on the Oregon Coast

The Oregon coast stretches for over 360 miles (580 km) facing the mighty Pacific Ocean. To drive along the coast non-stop would take approximately seven hours on U.S. Route 101. Of course, stops are likely and recommended to plan well! We did the top third on one day, and the remaining on a second day.

Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, Cape Sebastian, rock formations, great drive

Background on Oregon’s coast

The Oregon coast, as much of the Pacific coast of the United States, was first explored by the Spanish. Soon, thereafter the British (like Cook or Vancouver) also explored the Pacific Northwest coast. Most notably, the Lewis and Clark expedition got to the northwest corner of Oregon near Astoria.

The entire coast of Oregon is public land. Some technical terms define exactly how far from the water but the point is that all waterfront is public land and available for public use (while allowing for easements for coast-facing property owners).

This means that one can uninterruptedly explore the coast with its many features: beaches, rocky terrain, lighthouses, capes, historical sites, etc. There is a great variety of features dotting the coast allowing for a good number of activities for every taste (beach, hiking, small-town exploring, kite flying, water sports, fishing, and on and on).

There are different characteristics of the coast.

  • The northern segment is more likely to have longer, uninterrupted beaches. Cannon Beach and Tillamook would fall under this northern segment.
  • As you move further south, more small cliffs and terraces appear. Small neat towns like Yachats are part of this central coast adding more charm.
  • The southern part is more hilly so the cliffs and capes are taller. There are also beaches but they did not seem as vast as the northern ones. And sand dunes make their appearance in this section. Bandon and Coos Bay are some of the towns in this area.

Rocky outcrops dote the entire coastline, making it reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road in Australia near Melbourne. Sunset along the coast, needless to say, offers spectacular scenes and great photo opportunities.

What to see along Oregon’s coast

Here are some key spots to not miss among the many available. The list is presented in a north-to-south order, not in an order of preference!

#1 Cannon Beach

As expanded upon in a separate post in this blog, Cannon Beach is a must-see. It is expansive and easy to access from the town (steps away, literally!). Check out the blog post for a suggestion of what to do intown other than the beach that everyone checks out!

#2 Tillamook

Tillamook is a town near the coast. While it is on the water, it is actually a bay. It is a town of about 5,000 sporting an air museum and the Tillamook Creamery which can be visited. We did not make these stops as we had landed on the west coast around noon and had spent time in Cannon Beach and still had a long drive to get to the Willamette Valley for the evening.

#3 Munson Creek Falls

Right after passing Tillamook, for those wanting a little non-beach activity and beautiful nature, the Munson Creek Falls are easily accessible from U.S. Route 101 and a quarter mile short walk to get to them. The dense greenery makes a lot of sense given the high level of moisture of a coastal region. The trail to the waterfall starts at a small parking lot but the final bit of the trail happened to be close so we were not able to get up close-and-personal with the waterfall. Still, a nice break with lots of fresh air for our first travel day.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, hiking in Oregon, rock formations

#4 Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint

There are many places to pull off the road or official viewpoints. The Boiler Bay stop, just north of Devil’s Punch Bowl, is one of the nicest in terms of the views it offers up the coast, but also because it is expansive, has tons of parking, and has restroom facilities. A nice place to stop and have lunch, stretch the legs, or shoot some good photos.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations
Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations

#5 Devil’s Punch Bowl at Otter Rock

This amazing rock feature is easily reached but on a busy weekend day, good luck finding parking! The parking not only serves visitors who want to see the bowl but also those wanting to visit the local shops or head down to the amazing beach. Still it is worth the trouble. You can admire the bowl and follow a short trail that sort of is an overlook onto the beach right south of it. At the right time of the year (March/April, I understand), whale-watching may also be possible from there.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations, Devil Punch Bowl

#6 Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Continuing on south, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse (the tallest on the coast) is a great spot to stop and explore. When we went, we were not able to drive up to the parking area by the lighthouse itself but had to park up the road and undertake a walk that was not unpleasant.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, lighthouse, great drive, cliffs, rock formations

By the lighthouse you can walk to decks along the cliff to get closer to the water. Access to the ‘beach’ was closed, not sure why (Covid gives a great cover to change a few things…). But we were close enough at the lowest deck while also getting a better look at the birds nesting on the rocks. I also recommend reading the signs explaining a few topics, especially how looking at the cliff-side and the rocks shows you how much time a particular level spends underwater as the tide comes and goes.

Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations, Oregon lighthouse

The lighthouse was off limits but I don’t think that was Covid but, rather, repairs that were underway. Again, signs explain how the area and life there were in its very early days. Really interesting life those folks led! As with many lighthouses, they are now automated and the full-time lighthouse operator is no longer the human who tended to live a very isolated life in those locales.

#7 Yachats

The small town of Yachats is one of the more picturesque of the towns I got to see along the coast. It is a great stop to have lunch near the water (even if not facing it) and perhaps shop around at the local market (can’t quite call it a supermarket though it has just about everything one needs) or the stores around the heart of the town. Yachats is the entry point (at least in this direction) to the next area worth exploring….

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, Yachats

#8 Cape Perpetua

Cape Perpetua (visited and named by James Cook in 1778) is not just a cape point but a broader area. The day use area offers great views. The beaches around are expansive. Thor’s Well is one of the many interesting features to explore. Campgrounds and walking/hiking trails offer more than just views. In other words, plenty of things to see and places to soak the beauty of the Oregon coast in. Before my trip I read somewhere that is the quintessential coast of Oregon everyone thinks of when they talk about how beautiful the Pacific coast is. Agreed!

Cape Perpetua, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations

#9 Oregon Sand Dunes

I never fully figured out the best spot(s) to view and enjoy the sand dunes of Oregon but everything I had read spoke about the amazing dunes of Oregon. Clearly, I needed to have done more research – or have better luck on the road! I had supposed it was one park with a nice brown sign along the road pointing to where to go. Well, it seems the area is so expansive that it is not just “one” spot. In any case, do your homework on these if you are interested. Know that you will see some sand dunes along the way all the way into California though perhaps not the most impressive part.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, Oregon sand dunes

#10 Cape Sebastian

Cape Sebastian has multiple places to explore but the south parking offered, in my opinion, one of the best vantage points to see up and down the coast. I read it was just about 50 miles up and down of views from about 200 feet high! Truly stunning.

hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, nature, adventure in Oregon
View from the north parking lot viewpoint
hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, nature, adventure in Oregon
View from the trail off the south parking looking north
hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, adventure in Oregon, Hunter's Cove, Myers Creek Beach
View from the trail off the south parking looking south towards Myers Creek beach

We were running behind schedule so we limited our walk on the trail off the parking lot but it was a fun, vegetation-covered trail on the segment we did.

hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, nature, adventure in Oregon
The trail off the south parking lot

#11 Myers Creek Beach

Right after getting down from Cape Sebastian and hopping on the 101, there are a couple of viewpoint stops to admire the beach and rock formations and, in our visit, the setting sun and its great light for photos. We stopped at the second one, the Myers Creek Beach viewpoint, closer down to the beach level though not quite there. The sand looked like small sand dunes with the shadows they cast. I figure whichever stop along the coast you make while the sun is setting may be your favorite stop. I think Cape Sebastian and this stop, therefore, may be my favorite of the entire coast!

Myers Creek Beach, Oregon sunset, sand dunes, Oregon beach, Pacific coast, route 101, Cape Sebastian
Myers Creek Beach, Oregon sunset, sand dunes, Oregon beach, Pacific coast, route 101, Cape Sebastian

Hope you get to explore the Oregon coast someday and certainly do not limit yourself to this list – there is more than I could cover and more for every taste / preference!

Oregon coast, sunset over the Pacific, Pacific coast, Cape Sebastian, hiking, great drive, route 101

Postcard from Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach, Oregon is a magnificent spot on the very northwest corner of Oregon. The town of less than 2,000 people hosts one of the most magnificent beaches in the Pacific Northwest.

Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest
Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest

It is crowned by Haystack Rock (235 ft high) which is sort of the identifiable symbol of the beach.

Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest

A long stroll looking at the houses and lodging along the beach is definitely a must-do. The beach is deep and spacious. But, I warn you, the waters are very cold!

Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest

Most people go to Cannon Beach (originally baptized Elk Creek and supposedly visited by William Clark and Sacagawea) for this but, on the advice of a local, we walked through the colorful and flowerful neighborhood tucked between city hall and the water treatment plant. There are hidden short trails in the small neighborhood but I would encourage the visitor to walk the neighborhood streets to admire the houses and beautiful gardens that adorn them. I will finish this postcard with images from those houses and gardens!

Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest, flowers, gardens
Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest, flowers, gardens
Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock, Pacific Northwest, flowers, gardens

Some of My Favorite Spots in Berlin

Many times I write about my exploring right after I return home, when the memories are fresh and I first go through all the photos I took during my trip. Today, I thought I’d re-visit my days in Berlin less than a couple of years ago.

Reichstag Building, Dach, Berlin, Bundestag, rooftop view of Berlin, Alemania, Germany
From the rooftop terrace of the Reichstag Building

The capital of reunited Germany is laden with history and symbolism. I think it always has been. It is a peculiar place simply because of all the volumes of history written in its streets, buildings and fields.

All that provides someone visiting the city with many items to add to a list of must-sees. Here, I will share the places I enjoyed the most in Berlin. Maybe they will end up in your list of what to see in Berlin! I will start with the museums and move on to other places…

The many museums in Berlin’s Museum Island

Museum Island is a treasure trove of important museums. The Pergamon Museum, the Neues Museum, the Altes Museum, the National Gallery, and the Bode Museum are some of the museum options that will -I am sure- wear out even the most museum-addicted visitor.

berlin, museum island, bode museum, derliner dom, pergamon museum
Berliner Dom on the right, Bode Museum on the left, and the rest in the middle!

With museums, having a plan is key as covering all the works on display is about impossible with large museums or in an area with so many of them. I did not have enough days in Berlin to explore all of these (save the Pergamon Museum) so I can’t attest to their “visit worthiness”. However, the Neues Museum has the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti, an item I wished I had seen in person since I have visited the tomb where it was found in Egypt …

Of course, there are many other museums in town beyond Museum Island so, keep exploring! (Keep reading for a later entry in this post about a Berlin Wall museum…)

A museum of greatness: Pergamon

The Pergamon Museum stands out due to the grandeur of the building and some of the contents (like the Ishtar Gate and other grand remnants of historic places from antiquity. The museum was established before World War I and, thankfully, its art and objects were safeguarded so they survived the destruction brought to the city by World War II. The Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate, the Miletus Market and the large collection of Assyrian statues/busts were some of my favorite things to see firsthand. It is a big museum and could consume a long time so plan properly. For my tips for a well-done visit, check my earlier post about the Pergamon Museum.

Post-World War II history museum

The Allied Museum in the “suburb” of Dahlem (in what used to be West Berlin) caught my eye and I made an easy trip on the U-Bahn to get to see it but, rookie mistake, I did not check opening schedule and it was closed that day. From the outside, I did get to see some of the large items placed outdoors from across the fence and it really made me regret not checking the schedule first!

Allied Museum in Berlin, checkpoint charlie, berlin, old airplane

I did walk around the residential streets of Dahlem and it was cool to see a very different type of neighborhood than most European cities have. I almost felt I was back in the U.S. (though there was still differences). I am not sure if the history of the area is that these homes were built during the American occupation of the area post-World War II, or if they pre-date those times. I knew of the area as a good friend was born there while his father was stationed in Germany in the early 1970s so that gave me context for the area and explains why the Allied Museum as well as a U.S. consulate office are located there vs. closer in to the heart of Berlin.

Dahlem, occupied zone, Berlin, Germany
A house in Dahlem

The DDR Museum – throwback to the Cold War

On the slight whimsical side, yet filled with interesting info and artifacts, is the DDR Museum right next to Museum Island. It takes one back to how life in Communist East Germany was and has great imagery (physical and digital) to do that. If you were born after the fall of the Iron Curtain (1989), this may be a curiosity but to those who remember the Cold War, it may be a more vivid reminder of those times that now seem like ancient history, almost surreal!

Great rooftop views of Berlin – and great food!

The Bundestag, Germany’s federal parliament, is housed since 1999 in what has to be one of my favorite buildings in the city: the Reichstag Building. It was built in the latter part of the 19th century and fell into disuse after a fire in the 1930s and the effects of World War II. It never functioned again as a diet or parliament until well after German reunification in the 1990s.

Its modernistic dome is fun to climb via the long ramps and it will offer great photo opportunities of the outdoor and the indoor (if you look straight down inside, you are looking at the chamber where the politicians meet).

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The unique dome and its ramps

The rooftop terrace provides great views of the city.

SPree River, Berlin, Germany
The Spree River
 German Chancellery, Bundeskanzleramt, Berlin, German government, Germany
The German Chancellery

But, being a bit of a foodie, my favorite part of the Reichstag Building was its rooftop restaurant (Dachgarten Restaurant) named Käfer. Its breakfast offerings are delicious. I hear that it is also a great place to go before sunset to enjoy the views with the sunset colors of the sky.

Tips to visit the Bundestag’s rooftop restaurant, Käfer

You need to make reservations to be able to go (on the link provided above, scroll down to get the reservation form). The exact info on every visitor will need to be provided when making the reservation for security measures. Upon arrival, allow extra time ahead of the reservation time to go through security where you will need to provide valid photo ID (I suggest your passport).

Bundestag, Reichstag Building, entrance for visitors to the Bundestag, Berlin, Alemania, Germany
Secured entrance for visitors facing the Tiergarten

Walking Berlin’s unique neighborhoods

I was lucky that one of my Godchildren lives in Berlin and besides spending time together, he showed me very unique neighborhoods that perhaps as a tourist, I may have never gotten to explore. If you have the time and don’t mind meandering, I highly recommend walking around these neighborhoods, mostly in the former East Berlin. Some areas to consider exploring: Alexanderplatz, Prenzlauerberg, and Kreuzberg.

I was told and I could tell that the areas of the former East Berlin have a slightly different feel than those of the former West. The difference may be blurring some but it is detectable and feeds the curiosity of those of us who never saw the city before reunification as to how things must have been…

Eatery in the former East Berlin, Berlin bar
Badfish Bar, Prenzlauerberg, East Berlin, Berlin best bar
I loved Badfish Bar!!

Berlin’s Cathedral

Compared to many other German European cathedrals, Berlin Cathedral’s (Berliner Dom) interior did not really do anything for me (though it still had some splendor).

However, its exterior is impressive and going up to the dome for the views may be cool to do if you are into that (I am!). There are other churches around town so if you like to check them out, I’d say go for it. My limited time in town, unfortunately, prevented more exploring. But Berlin has so many unique things other cities don’t have that I don’t regret my prioritization!

Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church

OK, I know I said I did not get to explore churches. But this one is different. Not much of the church remains and that is the point. It was not an old church to begin with. But, after it suffered destruction during the war, it was decided not to re-build it so it could serve as a reminder of the hard times Berlin has known and the horrors of war. It is well worth the visit though and, along the way, explore this more modern and commercial area of Berlin.

Kaiser Wilhelm Church, ruins in Berlin, memorials in Berlin, Berliner kirche, what to see in Berlin

Eating at KdW!

Oh, and while around there, do NOT miss “KdW“! Kaufhaus des Westens is a large department store à la Galeries Lafayette in Paris.

Not much of a shopper here but exploring its marzipan and chocolate section was a walk through paradise. And then do not miss eating one of the Berliner Currywurst in one of the food counters in one of the top floors!!!

KdW, Berlin department store, Berliner currywurst, famous Berlin hot dog, German dishes
Currywurst with fries and a beer at KdW!

The Brandenburg Gate

Of course, you were waiting for me to talk about this (and the next item), weren’t you? Well, yes, of course I have to list it in this post. The iconic Brandenburg Gate is a must for a photo (selfie or not!). It is located near important embassies and across one end of the Tiergarten Park. The gate dates from the late 18th century and is in a location where there used to be another gate in the past. It is monumental and impressive! The Berlin Wall used to go right in front of it (remember Reagan’s speech telling Gorbie to “tear down that wall”?) as the gate was in East Berlin.

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Remnants of the Berlin Wall

For many of us, likely, nothing evokes Berlin as the Berlin Wall that lived almost 30 years in the midst of this great city, dividing its people and its essence.

The history of the boundary between East and West Berlin is fascinating once you read up on it. Having lived in the era of the wall, I thought generally there had always been a hard barrier between the two halves of the city once the post-WWII period began.

Well, actually, that was not the case in the immediate years of the post-WWII period. People could cross through between the two parts of Berlin. It was not until the living standard of West Berliners started surpassing that of the East Berliners that the Communist regime had to erect a barrier to prevent people voting with their feet (since they had no free elections for their leaders…). Also, wanting to isolate and demoralize the Westerners also played part, I assume.

In any case, there are some remnants of the wall still standing (thankfully) such as the pieces in the large Postdamer Platz, right next to where I stayed during my visit. It is well-signed including photos of how the area looked while the city was divided, and a good spot for photos.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin Ritz Carlton, Berlin Wall today, Berlin Mauer, muro de Berlin hoy
The Berlin Wall remnants at Potsdamer Platz

Even more fascinating for me are the places where the wall used to be is marked on the pavement or sidewalks of the city. This trail makes the past reality a little more vivid as you can feel the seeming randomness of the wall’s route. It also is puzzling as you see of all sudden the trail go into a new-ish building’s wall and wonder how the space was before the building was built. I loved running into this trail as I meandered around town!

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin
The 2-brick wide trail in the middle of the street marks where the wall was
Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin, Brandenburg Gate
Find the trail looking towards the Brandenburg Gate from the Reichstag

Topography of Terror and the Wall

A very large portion of the wall is still in place by the Topography of Terror Museum. You can walk along it and read about the times… The museum itself has a LOT of information of the terrible events brought about by the Nazis in the many “boards” with plenty of photos. I think it was well-done but the topic is definitely overwhelming…

Berlin Wall remnants, Berliner Mauer, muro de Berlin, Alemania, Germany, Topography of Terror

Checkpoint Charlie is nearby. Go for it… #underwhelming

Memorial to the Murdered Jews

This large memorial between the Brandenburg Gate and Postdamer Platz deserves some time. I did not get to see the indoor exhibit due to the time of my visit but the outdoor place certainly made feel sad. Whoever had the inspiration for this very unique memorial’s design nailed it. It was really off-putting to see folks climbing on the pieces and posing for funny photos as if they were in a regular park. Of course, I don’t have an issue with photos but certainly expect some respect given the reason this memorial was needed… #neveragain

Memorial to Murdered Jews, Jewish memorial in Berlin, monumento a los judios, Berlin, Germany, post world war ii berlin

A non-site: Hitler’s bunker

Hitler’s underground bunker, as you may know, is where he and some of his minions lost their lives by their own hands or others’. The bunker was destroyed in the Communist period, I imagine, to prevent any crazies from ever making it a memorial, even if just in their mind.

Today, we do know where the bunker was (curiously, not far from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews) and there is a residential building and its yard built on the spot. A small, non-descript sign on the sidewalk gives some information. One cannot really memorialize such a place but, from a historical standpoint, I certainly wanted to see what the area looked like today. (The residential building is on Wilhelmstrasse.)

Hitler's bunker today, where Hitler died, World War II Berlin, places to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania
The site today

This post does not Berlin justice. There is so much more to see and do that I can cover.

But, I hope, it gives you some interesting new places to consider while including some well-known ones. Berlin is a never-ending exploration!

Hiking Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

Just when I think I have explored a good bit of hiking trails near Atlanta, last weekend a pleasant surprise awaited me: Arabia Mountain National Heritage Area. Right outside of Atlanta, right by the town of Lithonia is a series of trails that span a good bit, anchored by Arabia Mountain.

If you have ever heard of Stone Mountain, imagine a smaller sibling of that large single granite rock outcrop in the flatter land around and that is Arabia Mountain.

The “ascent” to the top of Arabia Mountain

Standing at 955 ft, Arabia Mountain is a little more than half the altitude of Stone Mountain. Maybe not as impressive as Stone Mountain but I was pleasantly surprised as I hiked 2 miles+ to get to its base on a cold and gray winter Saturday afternoon. The slope is gentle and relatively easy. The path up is marked with small stone towers that fit in with the landscape.

At the top, there are pools of water perhaps mainly due to recent rains and lots of moss and delicate vegetation. While it was not the best day for views, I rather prefer days with cloud coverage and a slight chill in the air for my hikes. The only bad thing about choosing that day to go up was that the view was limited and we could not see too far beyond the near vicinity of the area.

Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta
At the summit
Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta
At the summit

Hiking around the lake at Arabia Mountain

After descending, we decided to do a loop around the lake at the base of the mountain. It was a neat trail looking at the lake and the rock of the mountain behind it.

Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta

After completing the non-mountain side of the lake, we stepped onto the mountain walking along its lower edge along the opposite side of the lake. It was not the most comfortable walk as our feet were not horizontal and it was slippery from the rain but it was sort of fun.

Hiking in Atlanta, hiking Arabia Mountain

The lake area felt pristine and the path was mostly a nature trail so that was a real treat.

Hiking in Atlanta, hiking Arabia Mountain

Our approach to get to Arabia Mountain

There is a parking lot right at the base of Arabia Mountain for those not as inclined to make a longer hike.

However, as I mentioned, this is all part of a larger network of trails that cross Dekalb and Rockdale counties from Lithonia all the way to the Monastery of the Holy Spirit.

While not our original plan, we were quite pleased at how things turned out. We ended up in one of the parking areas near the mountain but not the one at its base or the next closest one.

Instead, we parked near Vaughters farm, about 2 miles from the mountain. The trail began on a paved path (why do they insist on concreting trails…) along the fields of the Vaughters farm. It took me back to my days doing the Camino de Santiago. Rolling hills of green surrounded by forests until a mile later, when we hit the Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Center. Another mile took us to the Arabia Mountain trailhead which also house a wildlife center.

Vaughters Farm in near Arabia Mountain Park in Dekalb County, near Atlanta, Georgia
Vaughters Farm in near Arabia Mountain Park in Dekalb County, near Atlanta, Georgia
Set in beautiful rolling fields surrounded by woods
Trailhead to Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta, Georgia
Trailhead at Vaughters farm. Windy little path…

Of course, the walk back to Vaughters farm was 2 miles but enjoying the landscape around was very rewarding even if the rolling hills were getting to me on the last mile of my 7.5 mile hike (which took 2 hours and 40 minutes)…

hiking near Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

To get to Arabia Mountain just go on I-20 East from downtown Atlanta (maybe 40 mins with good traffic?), well past I-285 to exit 74. As a reference, Arabia Mountain is southwest of Stonecrest Mall, if you are familiar with the area.

Cruising the Rhine – A Unique Music Cabinet Museum

Let’s talk about seeing a music cabinet – something I had never heard of before!

gramophone, musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

Rüdesheim am Rhein is one of those charming towns along the Rhine River in Germany that make you glad you spend the time traveling to new places. UNESCO agrees and, therefore, Rüdesheim and the region around it are designated as a World Heritage Site.

My December Christmas markets cruise made a stop there after passing through the scenic part of the Rhein earlier that day. Unfortunately, that only left us with the afternoon and early evening to enjoy Rüdesheim but I am not complaining (the scenic part of the Rhine is amazing to behold with the small towns and hilltop castles that grace the river banks).

Later that day we got to meet up with my college roommate and his wife with whom I went to Hamburg last year. They live an hour or so away so it was awesome that Rüdesheim was a stop for the cruise. We enjoyed glühwein with a shot of rum, laughed, and reminisced in a very festive environment at a small establishment in the town. I am not sure if it was the side patio of a restaurant or a pub or what; but we found a high table to camp at and hang out away from the cold wind!

Besides having walked the town center and see the Christmas markets, the other more cultural experience we had intown was to visit a music museum in Rüdesheim.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

It is not what I would have picked given a set of choices but I have learned in my travels (and life in general) to let myself just go with the flow. In this case, the flow being a short walk through town with a local guide arranged by the cruise. That walk was to end in the music museum where we would spend an hour or so led by a museum guide.

Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum

Maybe I am mistaken in calling it a music museum. The German name of the museum, Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum (Siegfried’s Mechanisches Musikkabinett), more appropriately calls it a musical cabinet museum.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

The museum, family-owned for 3 generations for the last 50 years, is the home of different “machines” that play music. It could be a gramophone or one of those massive cabinets you may have seen at a circus or fair that play music but no instruments (or humans!) are visible. Usually, the instruments are hidden inside the cabinets. It seems fair to call them machines as no humans are intervening to play the instruments (other than cranking the machine or turning them on, I suppose).

Sample cabinet with several instruments

The instruments range from small hand-cranked card-readers to large armoires to massive cabinets for a festival or circus. The antique gramophones were the most “normal” of the machines on display.

This one played metal (not vinyl!) discs!!

My favorite was the cabinet that played violins (single-stringed, if I understood correctly).

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

The museum is spread over a few small structures in the property (that dates originally from the 15th century) owned by the family. An adjoining building was lost in WW II bombings (before the museum exited) but the main tower survived.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany
musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

Today, the third-generation son and the second-generation dad take care of the machines. The third generation daughter helps take care of the business aspects.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany
This one was “discovered” and recovered somewhere in Hungary (not Budapest)

Visiting the Music Cabinet Museum

I visited the museum as an excursion organized by the cruise ship so I had no idea of the entrance fee or other details. Note that opening times vary by time of year and that they may be closed altogether in January and February. Guided tours are offered in different languages and are worth it (and entertaining!). The cost, as of this writing, is 8 euros for adults and half for others.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany
Find the instrument…

Aachen and its Imperial Cathedral

Aachen is a town of a quarter million located in a corner of western Germany that abuts Belgium and The Netherlands (in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, to be more precise). History lovers and architecture fans will probably know of this German town. Its importance over centuries past was huge.

Architecture of Aachen, Germany
Buildings near the Cathedral

Why is Aachen important?

The spot has been inhabited for sure since Roman times. But, probably, Aachen’s importance gained territory when Charlemagne became a fan. Charlemagne should sound familiar from world history class though you can be forgiven if you don’t remember the why… He unified parts of Europe a few centuries after Rome fell and became what was called the first Holy Roman Emperor (maybe so-called because he was crowned in the precursor to today’s St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome?). Many came after him though later it stopped being a hereditary role – it was elected by important members of nobility of certain houses of Central and Western Europe (if I remember correctly).

Model of Aachen's Cathedral
Aachen’s famous Cathedral started with the structure in the center (the Octagon)

Building Aachen’s Cathedral

Charlemagne had spent time in Aachen years before he became Holy Roman Emperor and had a chapel (and palace) built there. This chapel (which only was declared a Cathedral in 1930) became where these emperors were crowned for centuries (from the 10th to the 16th). The Aachen Cathedral is where Charlemagne was buried (and claimed to be to this day).

Plan of the Cathedral of Aachen in a plaque outside the Cathedral
Plaque showing the layout of the Cathedral

The golden box in the altar (known as Karlsschrein) is supposedly where his remains were placed after being removed from another location within the church,

Karlsschrein or coffin with Charlemagne's remains
The Karlsschrein where Charlemagne’s remains are (may be)
Altar of the Aachen Cathedral (Germany)
Zooming out, the Karlsschrein in the back behind the altar in the choir
Another angle showing more of the choir and stained glass windows

The Cathedral structure began to be built in the ninth century but was added to or expanded in later centuries. The Cathedral’s façade betrays its construction over several centuries (architectural preferences). Its cupola and steeple were also added later.

The lower tower has a different style than the upper
View of the Cathedral’s position: a very tight plaza in front of it

Its interior was also enhanced by adding the marbled walls and the mosaics, for example.

Marbled walls of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany
The marble is outstanding!
More of the marble

The columns and arches supporting the cupola remind me of the Mezquita de Cordoba (Spain; the Cordoba Mosque; see photo below). Another addition was the 4-meter diameter chandelier donated by Barbarossa who was emperor in the 12th century.

Ceiling  / Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral and Barbarossa's chandelier
So much to admire in this pic! At bottom, Barbarossa’s chandelier

The mosaics in the ceiling and on the high part of the main level columns are pure beauty.

Ceiling of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany with its golden mosaics
Mosaics in the cupola
Interior of the Cathedral of Aachen
Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany

Christmas market in Aachen

My mother and I made a short stop in Aachen on our way from Brussels, Belgium to Cologne, Germany to embark on our Rhine River cruise. After visiting the Cathedral’s interior, we walked around its exterior where we ran into our first Christmas market experience – and our first cup of glühwein (of many throughout our cruise!).

Exterior of Aachen's Cathedral (Aachen Dom) in Germany
Beautiful exterior
Christmas market in Aachen, Germany
The Christmas markets

Glühwein is mulled wine: diluted wine (red or wine) mixed with spices and heated up to keep Christmas market visitors warm in the cold day or night of French or German towns in December! Sometimes they add a shot of rum or another hard liquor to strengthen it but I just enjoyed the diluted wine version as I was just looking for warmth in my hands and tummy!

Gluhwein in Aachen, Germany
My Mom enjoyed her 1st gluhwein, all bundled up (you are not in FLA anymore!)

The Cathedral remains one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe. It suffered great damage during World War II but the main structure remained. We are fortunate today to have this jewel still present to link us to history, faith and architecture over the centuries.

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