The Magnificent Cologne Cathedral

The city of Cologne has been an important center in northwest Germany since the first century. It is the fourth largest city in Germany, is strategically located in important routes for commerce and transport, and is a center of culture, education and business. Its location on the Rhine River certainly plays a significant part in all of the above. And so it served as the starting point for the river cruise I took with my mother in December to explore Christmas markets along the Rhine River!

The Cathedral of Cologne from the edge of the Rhine River in Germany.
I saw the Cathedral at this distance from a train back in 1998!

Some important claims

Cologne’s Cathedral is the Cathedral of St. Peter though I did not know that until AFTER my trip. It is the tallest two-spired church in the world, and third tallest church overall in the world (it is the second tallest in Europe). This height gives it the largest façade of any church in the world. Its exterior screams “look at me, I’m Gothic” even to the most untrained architecture-amateur.

As reference, the Cathedral’s website provides the following key dimensions of the structure (among other interesting stats):

  • Top height: 157.22m (516ft)
  • Widest point: 86.25m (283ft)
  • Max length: 144.58m (474m)

Given its importance (read further down) and its magnitude, the Cologne Cathedral is Germany’s most visited site (6 million per year), something that surprised me considering the Berlin Wall remnants, the Brandenburg Gate, Dachau, and the Ulm Cathedral (the tallest church in Europe and second in the world).

All of this certainly makes it impressive and worth visiting and earned it being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Long-awaited completion!

The Cathedral’s foundation stone got laid back in 1248. However, its completion delayed over the centuries; in fact, it sat unfinished and not being worked on for 300+ years! Work resumed in the mid-19th century and was finally completed in 1880.

Though it got started in the 13th century, there has been some form of a church on the site at least since the 6th century. Thankfully, it survived post-revolutionary French destructiveness in this part of Germany though it was closed for worship for a few years thanks to the French.

Relics R Us

Tradition holds that the relics (bones) of the Three Wise Men (or Magi) were brought to Cologne. The Cathedral was designed as magnificent as it is due to the important role it would have: the home of the relics. It also was to serve as an important place of worship for the Holy Roman Emperor which also explains the imposing structure and very detailed ornamentation on the exterior.

But back to the Three Wise Men… their relics had ended up in Milan (mental note to learn more about that part some time…). Around 1164, the relics were transferred to Cologne by an Archbishop who had been granted the relics by Barbarossa (the more-used name for Holy Roman Emperor Friedrich I) after he had taken Milan with the support of the Archbishop. This was a great move by the Archbishop as it helped make Cologne one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Europe (Rome and Santiago de Compostela being among others in that category).

Take a look at the Cologne Cathedral!

So with all that as backdrop, take a look at this 2-min video (give or take a few seconds!) to see some of the exterior and interior of the Cathedral. The images used were taken while I visited Cologne’s Christmas markets so you will also get to see how lively the plaza next to the Cathedral was!

(While the pictures themselves are hopefully good, the assemblage may show my level of inexperience at pulling a video together!)

Visiting the Cologne Cathedral

As many active religious buildings of any faith, visiting while services are conducted is either restricted or limited to just those participating in the services. If you do not practice, in this case, the Catholic faith, visiting during a service is OK as long as you are there sitting down like everyone else, not taking photos, and being silent: it is important to respect those services and the faithful who attend them who share their place of worship with you as a visitor. I do think it is beautiful to observe another faith’s services if one is allowed to be there so by all means I encourage you to do that as long as you mind the basic etiquette laid out above.

All that said, the Cathedral’s visiting hours are during daytime and the hours do vary by time of year (summer vs. winter, to be brief) so check their website for precise hours. Be aware that Sundays and religious holidays will have more limited visiting hours as services are being conducted.

The Cologne Cathedral does offer guided tours. A couple of times a day it is offered in English. Special guided tours are available to the rooftop and Treasure chamber (which you can also visit on your own). Oh, and the Cathedral has an app that you can use to explore the church on your own! It is available in Google Play and the Apple App Store.

Finally, if you are up for it, you can climb one of the towers for 6 euros (adults) as of this writing (reduced by half for children and other special categories).

Post Card from the Grand Place in Brussels, Belgium

I had a short overnight layover in Brussels, Belgium in early December on my way to a Rhine River cruise to explore Christmas markets in the region. When looking at where to arrive in Europe get to the embarkation point (Cologne, Germany), I chose Brussels as my entry airport as it was relatively close to Cologne. But I also chose it because it is a town I had never visited (I had gone through its train station a few times when commuting between The Hague and Paris, but never visited).

With jet lag, a couple of other delays, and an early departure the next day, I really did not have time to explore much at all. However, I did get to see Brussels’ Grand Place which was the number one place I wanted to see in person.

So I got to do that (plus the royal palace on a drive-by on the way out of town) and a little bit of walking around near the Grand Place. Here are some images from that short visit that leaves me wanting to return to continue exploring this city, check out the Magritte Museum – and get to try the local food specialties!

Experiencing Christmas Markets along the Rhine River

One of the most iconic images of the Christmas season is the Christmas-time, outdoor markets common in many parts of Europe. In this post, I will share both how I experienced Christmas markets in three countries and my tips for a most enjoyable visit!

I have always wanted to visit these markets out of curiosity and also as a way to enjoy the Advent season in full spirit ahead of Christmas (technically, it is not Christmas until December 25th!). The opportunity came to do this with a Rhine River cruise friends of mine were doing. Doing a river cruise has been on my Mom’s travel “wish list” so I could knock out an item from each of our lists!

During your visit, in case you see street signs, know that Christmas in German is “Weihnachten” and “Noël” in French!

Place #1 – Aachen, Germany

We only got to spend a brief 1.5 hours in Aachen, mainly spent at its cathedral. But we had time to venture into the Christmas market next to it. Though we got distracted by a bakery across the street from it, we still had time to venture into the Christmas market next to the cathedral. By the way, it may seem I am kind of cheating mentioning this one as it is not on the Rhine but it was on our way to reaching the river coming from Brussels!

Christmas market in Aachen, Germany

Tip #1 – Prepare for any weather

Tip 1a: Bundle up!

Clearly I am stating the obvious but… being outdoors 2-4 hours is different than a 15-minute walk in cold weather. While there are hot beverages available, that will not suffice! Depending on the day and the town, it could be quite cold. Then add the potential for wind and/or rain and it becomes even more a challenge to enjoying the markets!

Tip 1b: Wear shoes that can handle rain or snow

At a couple of places we had rain or a drizzle. It could be miserable – if you are not prepared or if you let it affect your spirits! While I cannot help much with the latter, for the former I recommend waterproof and “slip-proof” shoes.

Tip 1c: Avoid the hassle of an umbrella

Also, I would recommend a rain jacket/coat/poncho with a hood than using an umbrella for a couple of reasons. One, it leaves your hands free to check out the goods in the markets, or to hold your cup or drink while still allowing a free hand. Two, some of the streets or aisles are narrow and at times crowded. An umbrella creates for navigation issues as you walk around!

Place #2 – Cologne, Germany

It will not be a surprise that Cologne (Köln) has several Christmas markets as it is one of the largest towns on the list here. They are spread out enough so that you get to explore the streets of the town and happen by important places like the historic and imposing cathedral (as with many of the places mentioned here, more on them in future posts!), other churches, museums, town hall, etc. These interesting places can become a distraction from the Christmas markets – and rightly so! My advice: plan for more time in Cologne if you can so you can see more than the Christmas markets!

Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral - Germany
Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral

Tip #2 – Don’t judge markets by the first one

As in everything (or most everything) in life, don’t assume all Christmas markets will be like the first one you visit. Though many things will feel the same, markets can vary in terms of the types of goods offered. Also, a town may have just one or two markets whereas another may have several. And perhaps hours of operation differ (in Basel, for example, the market by the cathedral opened at 11 AM on the weekday I visited).

Place #3 – Rüdesheim, Germany

This small town certainly packed a punch when it came to the Christmas market scene! The stands were everywhere in the heart of the town and by the river. And the pedestrian streets were jammed pack with people! It felt like a fun place to be.

Christmas market and streets of Rudesheim, Germany by the Rhine River

Tip #3 – Partake in the glühwein and food

The Christmas markets are well-known for offering visitors hot beverages to help with staying warm. While hot chocolate and hot juices are available, the typical drink is spiced, watered-down wine called glühwein normally available with white or red wine. It certainly is a unique beverage and, being diluted, it is not as strong as a real glass of wine. Normally not a fan of spices like cinnamon and others but I can tolerate this spiced wine as it feels good to hold the hot cup in my cold hands!

Gluhwein stand in Colmar, France
In France, ask for “vin chaud”!

Also worth noting is all the good food around the kiosks (besides the regular cafes or restaurants available)! Many local specialties like baked goods, flammkuchen, sausages, pretzels, etc. Don’t miss out!

Sausage stand at Christmas market in Cologne, Germany by the cathedral
You can ALMOST smell the sausages!

Oh, and how could I forget! When you order the glühwein, keep in mind that if you return the mug, you get a refund. Or, if you want the mug as a souvenir, you don’t have to return it. What they charged you up front, assumes you will not return it. You can walk around the market or out of it while you sip your drink! In some towns like Strasbourg, we noticed that many stands only offer a cheap plastic cup whereas other stands have the real mugs. Also, in Rüdesheim we got some mugs from 2016. You may or may not care, just want you to be aware!

Gluhwein stand at a Christmas market in Heidelberg, Germany
Plenty of mugs in this Heidelberg stand!

Place #4 – Heidelberg, Germany

Again, we have a place technically not on the Rhine River but typically part of the itinerary of many cruises courtesy of a bus ride! Of course, the most important thing to do in Heidelberg is to visit its imposing castle above town. Not only is it an impressive set of structures and ruins, it also offers great views of the town and the Neckar River that goes through it.

Christmas market in Heidelberg. Germany

I have to say the Christmas markets I got to visit there were the least impressive of the ones I visited (Aachen’s was smaller but felt nicer). Thankfully, Heidelberg has a lot of things going for it.

Tip #4 – Check them out at day and at night

Daytime is short this time of year in these latitudes so this will not be hard to do. The Christmas markets felt different at night than in the daytime. It may be that they seemed to become more festive but that could be related to increased alcohol consumption perhaps? In any case, I’d suggest checking them out at these different times. This could also give you the opportunity perhaps to sit down somewhere for a proper meal intown or enjoy the local kiosk food.

Christmas market in Rudesheim, Germany along the Rhine River
Rüdesheim fun-filled streets at night

Place #5 – Strasbourg, France

This important seat of the European Union’s Parliament is quite a city. Its cathedral is fairly magnificent and its streets are lined with beautiful shops. Of course, this is one of the best places for Alsatian cuisine so I recommend not only walking to all the Christmas markets and side streets but also investing in a good lunch or dinner! Read more about how I experienced Strasbourg at Christmas here.

Chrismas market by the Strasbourg Cathedral in the Alsace region of France
Stands in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral

Tip #5 – Don’t buy everything in the first market

As you may expect, some of the goods (souvenirs or regular Christmas decorations) available in the markets are similar. But, since the towns along the river don’t share fully the same culture or history, there will be some variation in the items available. Even markets in one town may have different focus so the goods can vary there too. So don’t spend all your money in the first market or town!

Goods at a Christmas market in Germany
Not just Christmas goods but local and practical crafts!
Goods at a Christmas market in Germany

Place #6 – Colmar, France

As Aachen and Heidelberg, Colmar is not along the Rhine River. The main “port” on the river near it would be Breisach, Germany. This French town close to the border with Germany is a real gem, Christmas markets or not! It is breathtaking to meander its streets and see all the beautiful buildings all around (this town is definitely worth a separate blog post!). In Christmas, as in other towns, many establishments decorate part of their facade which adds to charm of Colmar.

Street in Strasbourg, France decorated for Christmas (Noël)
One of the best decorations (this store in Strasbourg)

Navigating the streets is easiest with a map as the streets twist and turn but maps also make it seem that it takes longer to reach a given location. I can’t recall actually how many markets we visited but we enjoyed at least half of the six that were pointed out to us in the map. The tourist info office offers maps especially marked with the Christmas markets.

Tip #6 – Buy it if you like it

While tip #5 is true (don’t rush to buy everything in the first town), the flipside is also important. If you find something that catches your fancy, buy it then and there. You are not guaranteed you will find it in a later town!

Place #7 – Basel, Switzerland

If I understood correctly, there should be three Christmas markets in Basel, Switzerland. I visited two and did not run into the third. The ones I visited were in the city center. One was right by the cathedral on the hill and the other was below near the Basel Historical Museum (on Barfüsser Platz). I found the latter to have a good variety of items. I bought not only a glass of glühwein there but also marzipan goodies (delicious!).

Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid - Christmas Market in Basel Switzerland
Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid

Tip #7 – Take time to soak it all in

Looking at all the goods, eating and sipping a hot glühwein is all well and good. However, standing for a few minutes (or more) is rewarding too. Though there certainly will be tourists, locals enjoy these markets too! For example, we stood by a small counter in Aachen sipping our drink and watching the atmosphere around us. We also found a spot to sit outdoors and chat with friends in a hole-in-the-wall in Rüdesheim. We got to watch tourists and locals enjoy this special time of the year when many people may think it best to sit in the warmth of the indoors at home!

Also, walking through the streets of these towns and looking at regular stores is a must. As mentioned earlier, many places decorate and the spirit is festive in the city centers!

Christmas market in Cologne, Germany
Christmas market in Cologne

In the end, however you want to “do” the markets, do them! It is certainly different than how I have experienced Christmas before and maybe it will be so for you too!

Save this pin to your travel planning board!

Christmas markets, Cologne, weihnachten, mercados de Navidad, Germany

The Historic Jewish District of Prague

Before my first visit to Prague earlier this year, I had heard a lot about the beauty of the town. Everyone falls in love with Prague. Both banks of the Vltava River are quite picturesque and enjoyable to explore. However, not only until I had begun to research my visit there that I learned about its Jewish Quarter. So, on my first day in Prague, I set out to find it so I could learn more about what happened to the Jewish inhabitants of the city in World War II and pay respect to their memory as I did so…

As one may expect, the Jewish Quarter is in the heart of Old Town Prague on the eastern banks of the river, just south of where it makes an almost 90 degree easterly turn.

History preserved in Prague

The quarter’s history stems from when Jews living in the area were ‘asked’ to move to this area as a way to concentrate them into one quarter. Over the decades and centuries, more Jews arrived and moved into the quarter.

What is fascinating is that the district has survived (for the most part) all these centuries. From what I read, Adolf Hitler on purpose did not destroy the district to serve as a museum to what he thought would be a forgotten people. Wrong. But, because it was not destroyed, the streets and buildings remain in helping the world remember the vast tragedy inflicted upon Jews across Europe.

The general area of the Jewish Quarter constitutes the Jewish Museum in Prague. In other words, the museum is not a building with art or artifacts in it. The Jewish Museum in Prague is all the synagogues, other structures, the cemetery, and contents and exhibits. Worth spending half a day or more to see it all.

Here are some of the places you may want to visit and spend time in during your visit to the Jewish Museum in Prague.

The Old-New Synagogue

The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová Synagoga) is Europe’s oldest active synagogue. It is located across the Jewish Museum and the High Synagogue. Built in the 13th century, it was known as the New Synagogue. Later, many other synagogues were built and perhaps that led to its being called “Old-New”. Entrance is not included in the Jewish Museum entrance though many other places are.

Old-New Synagogue in Prague, Czechia
As seen from the street

The Klausen Synagogue and Ceremonial Hall

The Klausen Synagogue (Klausová Synagoga), Prague’s largest, sits right by the Old Jewish Cemetery of Prague. It was reconstructed in Baroque style around the 1880s on the site of other historic Jewish buildings. Its Ceremonial Hall‘s walls abut the cemetery itself. Both are included in the Jewish Museum entrance and are definitely worthy of visiting. The synagogue has many interesting displays of important artifacts that are definitely worth walking slowly for.

The Ceremonial Hall is quite small and no longer serves its original purpose to honor the deceased; it just houses small exhibits. It is in Romanesque style and was built in the early 20th century to replace an older building.

The Ceremonial Hall in Prague's Jewish Museum as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery
The Ceremonial Hall as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery

The Maisel Synagogue

While I did not visit this synagogue, it sounds like an important one to visit. It dates from the 16th century and it is named from the businessman who helped get it built. During WW II, it stored important items of Jewish property. It required a good bit of renovations over the last few decades to be able to keep it open to the public for different exhibits.

Old Jewish Cemetery

The Old Jewish Cemetery, with thousands of tombs, is one of the most poignant spots in the Jewish Museum. It is not that the people buried there died in during the Nazi regime; most date from between the 15th and 18th century. It is simply, to me, how crowded in all these tombs are combined with the tilting tombstones and the encroached space containing them. And that all this survived WW II and Communism. Almost mind-boggling.

Tombstones of the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague, Czechia
Tombstones of the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague, Czechia

The crowded tombs though are not just about how many tombs were fit in a given area. There are in some places up to 12 layers of tombs. That is, as the place filled up, new layers of soil were added so more people could be buried there. Tombstones were moved up as original tombs were buried even further down. Hence why the tombstones are so close together: that means there are multiple tombs in a given vertical dimension. Truly mind-boggling…

Tombstones of the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague, Czechia

The Spanish Synagogue

This ornate synagogue feels different than the others. Its entrance feels “industrial” for someone used to entering places of worship through a front door. But, once you enter the sanctuary (if that’s a proper term for a Jewish synagogue), you forget about that. Its walls are of dark colors with golden patterns decorating them.

Right outside is the statue of Kafka – an interesting tiny sideshow in such a somber area of town.

The Pinkas Synagogue

The Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) is one of the most moving of all of the sites I visited by a good bit. We approached the ticket office not yet fully knowing what to expect. As we proceeded indoors, we saw the walls inscribed with the names of all the no-longer nameless victims of the brutality of Nazism. Several rooms’ worth of walls inscribed so they are etched in history in a more proper way… It was moving to walk through this modest synagogue to serve witness to the lives so brutally extinguished. Equally moving was seeing the room with drawings made by children in the camps and then to walk outside and read the panels that detail the story of Terezin, a concentration camp north of Prague. Terrible but important history to spend time reading/understanding…

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Traveling is a rewarding experience mainly to all the marvelous sights one gets to enjoy. But, sometimes, it is not about that at all. It is about the somber lessons history holds about the things we should never forget…

Great Drive Series – St. Ignatius to St. Regis, Montana

While exploring northwest Montana with a friend this past September, we tried to chart different routes as we covered a loop over a 4-day visit to the area.  We started in and finished in Spokane but wanted to minimize taking the same route twice.  We succeeded in that effort save for the stretch on the interstate between Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and Spokane, Washington.  After leaving Bigfork by Flathead Lake, we drove south via Polson to the town of St. Ignatius on Route 93.  We had some options to get back towards Coeur d’Alene and we choose a back route to minimize time on I-90.  This route would take us from St. Ignatius to St. Regis first on Route 200 and then on Route 135.  It was a great choice!

St Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower

The approach to the town of St. Ignatius was impressive!

St. Ignatius, Montana

St. Ignatius was a mission initially established around the mid-19th century in the Flathead Indian Reservation in this part of Montana (the original log cabin still stands).  The current Catholic church dates from the 1890s and is quite impressive in this town of less than a 1,000 residents or so.

St Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower

House in St. Ignatius

The church was undergoing renovations when I went and we got to meet the pastor who was assigned a few years ago to oversee the restoration efforts.  He greeted visitors on the day I went and explained the efforts right up until a family arrived for a baptism when he put on the right gear and proceeded to welcome a little one into the faith.St Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower, Catholic ChurchSt Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower, Catholic ChurchSt Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower, Catholic Church St Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower, Catholic Church, art restoration St Ignatius, Montana, Catholic mission, mountains, water tower, Catholic Church

The Road to St. Regis

After leaving St. Ignatius with its beautiful reminder of times past, of faith, and of those who served selflessly the latter in the former, we got on the road to St. Regis.  It was a beautiful road with many amazing landscapes and photo opportunities that I share here so you can have a glimpse of the beauty of this not-often-visited part of our country.  I leave you with those images and wish to return!

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S., Flathead River

Along the Flathead River

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S., Flathead RiverMontana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S., Flathead RiverMontana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.

Along the Clark Fork River

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.


Scenic drive in Montana from St. Ignatius to St. Regis

3 Places to See in the Remote Corners of Idaho and Montana

Up in the panhandle of Idaho and the northwest corner of Montana, there is some spectacular, largely unspoiled scenery.  I imagine not many get to see these lands as people focus on Coeur d’AleneBig Sky or Glacier Mountain National Park.  Well, it may make sense that they focus on those places but, if you have the chance, venture off-the-beaten-path.  I did just that simply on intuition, assuming/hoping that the remote corners of Idaho and Montana would deliver.  I was not disappointed.  Lake Pend Oreille, Ross Creek Cedar Trail and Kootenai Falls delivered!

#1 Before Montana: Idaho and Lake Pend Oreille

On my way to NW Montana, we drove north from Coeur d’Alene on route 95 through the town of Sandpoint to take Route 200 around Lake Pend Oreille.  Originally we had planned to go north past Sandpoint to Bonners Ferry and then take U.S. Highway 2.  However, the visitor center in Sandpoint recommended not continuing north on Route 95 but taking Route 200 instead to enjoy the scenic drive along the lake’s shore.   The exact quote was “I don’t why young punks insist of going north to Bonners Ferry”; I was flattered by the “young”…

In any event…  Lake Pend Oreille is the 5th deepest lake in the U.S. and the 38th/39th largest lake in the country.  Interestingly, it became the second largest naval training ground in the world during World War II after the attack on Pearl Harbor – who knew!

Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho's panhandle, map, great drive

Lake Pend Oreille looks like an ear – or a shrimp

The name of the lake means ear pendant in French which makes sense as it looks like an ear on the map.  However, it was named back when the shape was not as evident.  But, a likely explanation I read was that the Kalispeli residents of the area, whom the Canadian traders ran into, did wear ear pendants.

I don’t know what our original planned route would have been like but Route 200 around the lake was right on point. Lake Pend Oreille’s coastline is nice and curvy and there are plenty of pull-offs to stop and soak it all in.Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho, nature, great lakes, driving in the pacific northwestLake Pend Oreille, Idaho, nature, great lakes, driving in the pacific northwestLake Pend Oreille, Idaho, nature, great lakes, driving in the pacific northwest

We were also advised to try The Pantry bakery in Clark Fork where locals make delicious and fresh pastries (and one could pick up something for lunch too).  We did stop and enjoyed apple and cherry pies and bought this phenomenal chocolate pound cake that I enjoyed the rest of the trip!Clark Fork, Idaho, Pend Oreille, great drive in the pacific northwest

#2 Ross Creek Cedar Trail in Route 56

Once we left Clark Fork, the visitor center advisor had also suggested we take Route 56 on our way to get to U.S. Highway 2 as the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park was worth a stop and Route 56 was quite scenic.  Our plan all along had been to get to Hwy 2 (but by Bonners Ferry, if you recall…) to enter Montana so the recommendation would still allow us to do that, so we took it.  Some time after crossing into Montana from Idaho on Route 200, we found Route 56.Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Ross Creek Cedar Trail was a short (1 mile or so) walk through a grove of cedar trees.  The tree trunks were massively wide at their bases.  Some of the trees are 1,000 years old (I found it mindboggling but the forest service website says so!).  It was a nice way to stretch the legs on an easy trail and breathe clean, fresh air!  (Well, as long as you are not close to the vault toilets… what a situation!)Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar treeRoss Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar treeRoss Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

The drive out of the park along route 56 going north towards Troy was fun as it was not highly trafficked and the scenery quite enjoyable.  Driving north seeing the mountains ahead made for a memorable drive!

Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Heading out of the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park towards route 56

Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Views off route 56

Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Views off route 56

Kootenai River, route 56 in Montana, Kootenai Falls, US Highway 2 in Montana

Entering Kootenai River Country in route 56

#3 Kootenai Falls in Montana

Soon, we reached Hwy 2 and and headed east to get to Kootenai Falls, about 4 miles away or so.  Easy to pull off the road into a parking area next to the trail-head.  It did not take long to see why this spot is so highly recommended as a must-see. The hike itself is not too strenuous but it is not a flat, smooth path.  But before you get there, you will have to go down a few flights of stairs in a large metal staircase that helps cross over the railroad line that goes through the area.

I will let the photos speak for themselves, just know that there are two paths:  one to the main part of the falls and the other to a swinging bridge that serves a a good vantage point to look at the falls.  Do cross the bridge as there is a good vantage point from there too.Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Some spectacular fishing spot!

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, natureKootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Photo opps galore!

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Check out the falls in motion!

Do you have other suggestions for exploring the remote corners of Idaho and Montana ??

Glacier Mountain National Park: St. Mary and Virginia Falls

Glacier Mountain National Park in Montana is known as the “Crown of the Continent.”  And it is rightly so called:  it is peaceful, magnificent, and elegant.  One of the funnest hikes in the park is hiking to St. Mary Falls and Virginia Falls right by the edge of St. Mary Lake, one of the two main lakes in the most visited part of the park.

St. Mary Lake is on the eastern side of the park, at the eastern end of the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, by the small town of St. Mary.  GTTS Road, as it is colloquially known, is one of the absolute must-dos to enjoy the Glacier Mountain park’s majesty.  Driving along the lake going westward from the park’s main entrance is by itself an enjoyable experience.  As you drive west, the lake will be on your left with majestic mountains as the backdrop – which makes for many great photo opportunities.  There are numerous spots to pull off the road to admire the beauty and/or take pictures (don’t snap and drive!).  Depending on the time of day, the light will be different.  If you have the luxury of seeing it at different times of the day (especially early-early AM or late/late afternoon), do so!  I got to drive GTTS Road both in the mid/late-afternoon and in the early morning, and loved the difference sunrise vs. pre-sunset made in the scenery.

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Looking west towards a mid-afternoon cloud-covered sky

Once we got to the western end of the lake (about 10 miles from the park entrance), we pulled in to the parking area to take us to St. Mary Falls.  This parking lot was between the St. Mary Falls shuttle stop and the Sunrift Gorge shuttle stop.  If you are taking the park’s red shuttle, you can start the hike from either of those stops as there are trailheads next to them.

Our plan was to hike 1.2 miles to get to St. Mary Falls (4,560 ft altitude).  Then we would go a little further (an additional 0.7 miles) to reach Virginia Falls which sits higher at around 4,800 ft.  If you are of average fitness, you are likely able to go all the way to Virginia Falls.  If you feel you can handle the climb, you will likely agree that it is worth going that much further and higher to see Virginia Falls.  In the end, it is not a long hike, really.montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

While bears are in their natural habitat anywhere in the park, this particular trail is well-trodden by people so, hopefully, the noise of people talking keeps them from approaching the trail.  Just be on the lookout and carry your bear spray in a spot where you can quickly access it.  There is no better way to keep yourself safe than to be proactive in looking out for your safety!

Hiking to St. Mary Falls

Along the way you can admire mountains that rise upwards of 8,000 ft in altitude (on a trail where your max altitude is about 4,800 ft).  Pay attention to the signage as (from the parking lot we started from) there are a couple of junctions that could take you to different places.

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One of the junctions

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Once we were far enough along, all of a sudden we saw a river (St. Mary) and then heard the sound of the waterfall.

montana outdoors, st mary falls, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The bridge is the sign of the destination!

montana outdoors, st mary falls, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

St Mary River downstream from the same-named falls

Pretty soon we saw the wooden bridge placed in front of the waterfalls and, as we turned a bend, got to the bridge so we could see the waterfalls.  The waterfalls has three levels though two of them are the most eye-catching of the trio.

montana outdoors, st mary falls, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

St. Mary Falls

Hiking on to Virginia Falls

Once you are done enjoying St. Mary Falls continue the trail on the other side of the bridge.  The terrain gets a little more difficult to get to Virginia Falls.  We were excited to see a waterfall but realized that was not Virginia Falls. montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park, waterfall

The trail got steeper but, thankfully, the scenery made it all worth it.  I don’t think you have to be an athlete to do this hike as long as you are generally in good health.  Feel free to stop and snap photos – it gives you a little rest and there are definitely a couple of spots where one should step and just soak it all in.

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Can’t pass on snapping a photo in front of the beautiful landscape!

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The best spot to do that is actually the foot of Virginia Falls.  But wait.  You will see Virginia Falls from a vantage point where you can appreciate them from a distance.  But that’s not what I am calling the “foot” of the falls.

virginia falls, montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The first sighting of Virginia Falls

There is a view point a short distance up from that one.  It is worth dealing with the trail which, if it is wet, can be a tad slippery.

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Keep on going!

That view offers a flat rocky area with plenty of space to get close enough to the waterfalls – you can feel the spray on you.  It is much more impressive than St. Mary Falls partly for its size but also the setting of the spot.

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Amazing!

virginia falls, montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

 

What do you think???  Of the scenery, NOT of my video-ing skills!

This short hike (about 4 miles round trip) can be added to by visiting nearby Baring Falls which requires going almost all the way back and, at one of the aforementioned junctions, make a different turn (unless you park at Sun Point Nature Trail in which case you will pass Baring Falls on your way to St. Mary Falls).  After seeing St. Mary and Virginia Falls, we felt it was unlikely Baring would impress us.  I wish I had seen it just to know for sure but it was time to call it a day!

montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The reward after a nice hike is looking back west across St. Mary Lake as one follows GTTS Road

Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin.  I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.).  This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere.  More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck.  It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town:  Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea.  I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate.  And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm.  Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic architecture

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that.  But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea. Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town, Hanseatic architecture

I have to be frank:  I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip.  Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar.  I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002.  But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town architecture, architectural details Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town architecture, architectural details Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town architecture, architectural details Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town architecture, architectural details Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, Hanseatic town architecture, architectural details

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia.  Its origins can be traced to the 1100s.  I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903!  Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around.  Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot.  It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings.  And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed.  Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start.  Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II. Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960.  The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design.  That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened.  Powerful.

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The bell tower from 2 sides

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.  Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen KircheGeorgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen KircheGeorgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

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How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower.  It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part.  So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!

salmon, German potato cakes, German food, comida alemana, Wismar, Germany

This was an amazing lunch and a nice break from sightseeing!

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Beautiful image to close out this post on this charming Baltic town!



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4 Tips to Visit the Charles Bridge in Prague

The Charles Bridge in Prague deserves every bit of fame it gets for gracing and connecting Prague – a quite unique town itself.  The Charles Bridge spans the Vltava River (not the Danube!) and provides ample photo opportunities for selfie-crazed tourists or normal tourists!  I got to check it out or walk on it to get places and want to share four tips to visit the Charles Bridge as an excuse to showcase my photos 🙂

A little history of the Charles Bridge in Prague

Construction of the bridge began in the 1300s to replace a prior one and it was finished in 1402.  Now THAT is an old bridge!  The King that ordered its construction was Charles, hence the name of the bridge, though that name is a relatively recent name actually.  For hundreds of years, it was the only way to cross the river other than a boat.

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Old relief carving of the city shows the bridge already crowded!

The bridge is about 600m long and has 16 arches holding it up.  It was cool to see the ice breaking structures protecting the pillars though I did not see them “in action” as I went in the spring.

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #1 – the statues

My first tip is to not just look at the statues that grace either side of the bridge and snap a photo, but to read about them as you look at them.  They are mainly not the original statues but replicas.  Now, there are many (perhaps around 32?) so maybe you will not have time or attention span to do that with all of them (I didn’t!) but there is a lot of meaning and stories behind the people.  These statues were placed there to convey stories or values, memorialize individuals, and perhaps to add grace to the bridge.  Mind them!

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One of the many statues on the bridge!

While the statues are the dominant “decoration” of the bridge, there are a few plaques or carvings worth noting (and reading of in advance!).

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Carvingn depicting St. John Nepomuk being thrown off the bridge under orders of King Wenceslas

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #2 – the light and time of day

OK, my next tip is that there are many angles for a good photo but which angle is best varies with the time of day as the sun changes position in the sky.  I recommend going at different times throughout the day so you can face the sun as you take that priceless group photo or selfie with different sides of the city behind you.  And that includes nighttime!

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Early in the morning – beautiful angle

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, tips to visit the Charles Bridge

Night time looking towards Prague Castle

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #3 – the underside

Of course, people spend the time during the visit ON the bridge.  But, I ventured a little bit on the Prague Castle side of the bridge in the residential area BELOW the bridge.  It was charming (and quiet at that early time of the day).  I wonder how the residents cope with the hordes of us tourists all over the area during the day…  In any case, you will find the entrance to staircases to take you down right on the bridge, or you can enter the area near the tower on the Prague Castle end of it.  Get off the bridge and explore its “underside”!

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Right under the bridge

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Around the small neighborhood under the bridge

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And you never know when you will spot wedding photo sessions!

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Memorial to the 911 NYC firemen who died – unexpected find!

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #4 – when to spend time there

My top tip for visiting the Charles Bridge is to go early in the morning, before the city gets crowded with locals and tourists.  I am an early riser and while the rest of my group woke up and got ready, since we were staying a block away from the bridge, I went for a walk and almost had the bridge all to myself!

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The same shot in the afternoon would look very different as the sun would light the photo differently

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Hope these tips to visit the Charles Bridge in Prague are helpful.  Enjoy checking out the Charles Bridge – and Prague!

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Serbia’s Novi Sad and Its Petrovaradin Fortress

As part of my short visit to Serbia, I wanted to check out the town of Novi Sad, not far from Belgrade.  I combined it with exploring Fruska Gora and its vicinity.  I went in a small guided tour which, unfortunately, mainly gave us free time in Novi Sad; i.e., not much in terms of a guided tour there.  But it did spend time at the Petrovaradin Fortress and covered it pretty well.

I have to admit not knowing much about Novi Sad before planning my trip and had never heard about the fortress at all.  But that’s why I travel:  to learn of the things that have not crossed my path before and then to get to see them in person!  A lot of the learning happens while researching potential destinations and then when the planning begins:  studying the destination to allocate my time there to those things that catch my eye the most, be it a high point (in Lübeck, Germany), a unique sight (the DMZ in Korea), a historic building (the monstrous Parliament in Bucharest), or just food (in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood)!

Petrovaradin Fortress

The Petrovaradin Fortress sits high along the banks of the Danube River facing the center of Novi Sad.  Its unique vantage point provides great views of the river, the bridges crossing it, the main part of the city, and the surroundings of the fort itself.  The site seems to have hosted human settlement and early fortifications from before the times when Romans established themselves there.  Petrovaradin was a key battleground in the Hapsburg Empire (Austria) pushing back the Ottoman Empire one final time away from being a threat to Central Europe.  Its fortress’ buildings and walls have been built, maintained, enhanced, etc. over the centuries.

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Entrance to the fort

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

Walking along the uppermost walls facing the Danube

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One can explore the fortress and its massive walls by walking around

A curiosity of the fortress is the clock tower.  It was built with the hour hand being longer than the minute hand, contrary to most clocks that are not digital 🙂

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

Clock tower; it was around 12:45PM

Supposedly Petrovaradin has miles of anti-mine tunnels underneath but we did not get to see them; perhaps they are in disrepair and not safe?  Petrovaradin was more than just a fortress.  It was a fortified area with exterior walls protecting an area with many buildings.  In any case, the site was impressive to me for two main reasons:  the scale of the fortifications that one can see and the great location up high so one can soak in Novi Sad and the Danube River.

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

View towards the city center of Novi Sad

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Area right below the viewing area is part of the fortified area

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Modern road crossing the “moat” and going through massive walls

Petrovaradinska tvrđava

Fortifications facing the Danube River

Novi Sad’s city center

Novi Sad is Serbia’s second largest city with about a quarter million inhabitants – nice size:  not too big, not too small!  It resides in the Vojvodina autonomous province and serves as its capital.  The city actually does not pre-date the Petrovaradin Fortress but the other way around.  As cities go in this part of the world, it is ONLY slightly over 300 years old.  A baby by European standards but ancient by U.S. standards!!

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Bishop’s Palace from 1901 – interesting mix of styles

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

St. George’s Orthodox Cathedral

Novi Sad suffered a lot of damage in shelling that took place in the mid 19-century.  The main square and neighboring streets, though, contain many charming buildings with architecture that I associate with 19th century Central Europe.  I wish I had had more time to walk further out than I did.

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The Name of Mary Catholic Church

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

Other angle on the church and nearby buildings on the square

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Roof of the Church of the Holy Name of Mary

While there are beautiful buildings from back when, one can also spot some post-WW II modern buildings here and there in the city center, with more of them to be found as one moves out, I am sure.

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Great contrast of old and new

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Old and new again but the new is less so than the prior photo…

As I ventured outwards from the main square, I spotted what I am guessing is the bar/party street of the city center.  But, it was around lunchtime so no parties going on!

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

Party street!

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

I enjoyed strolling down the pedestrian streets filled with shops and cafés, while looking at the neat buildings all around. While this was just a short visit to get a mental image of Novi Sad, it looks like a relaxed town to spend time at.  Perhaps I will get to visit it again some day!

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The Hotel Vojvodina in the main square

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

A building near the main square

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

City Hall on the left built in 1894


Check out what cool places to see in Belgrade!

 

 

Fruska Gora: An Easy and Rewarding Day Trip from Belgrade

The Fruska Gora (Fruška Gora, Фрушка гора) mountain gives the name to the national park in Serbia around which many monasteries, charming towns, and vineyards can be found, just an hour or less away from Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, and much closer to Serbia’s second town, Novi Sad.  The Fruska Gora National Park runs east to west, almost or barely spilling into neighboring Croatia.  While we drove through parts of it, we did not explore it but, instead, checked out some of the places right outside its borders.

Driving in the area, on my way to Novi Sad from Belgrade (and now, while looking at my photos) makes me wish I could have spent a week just exploring every corner of this area in north Serbia bordering eastern Croatia and southern Hungary.  Such natural beauty, such complicated history, and so easy to explore!

On my recent trip to Serbia, I was based in Belgrade where I enjoyed sightseeing.  I have learned that in many Central and Eastern European countries, the country’s second largest city tends to be more charming and relaxed than the capital cities (Poland/Krakow, Bulgaria/Plovdiv, Romania/Brasov, etc.) so I booked a day trip to Novi Sad.  However, the one I decided upon would show me a glimpse of the area in and around the Fruška Gora National Park which I thought would add to my exploring by seeing something beyond two cities.

It was a good decision.  First off, we visited the Krusedol Monastery, and then we visited the colorful town of Sremski Karlovci where -bonus- I got to sample the local Bermet wine!  Win, win, and triple win!

Krusedol (Krušedol) Monastery

Serbia is known for the monasteries that grace its land.  Many were built in the Middle Ages and have seen the sweeps of history cross this country placed in a unique geographical crossroads (some, in fact, did not survive those “sweeps”).  From what I have read, the monasteries are quite diverse in their design and location (cliff face, valleys, etc.).  This page in the Serbia.com website shows a few images that convey this diversity.  In our visit, we stopped at what I would assume is a more conventional monastery near the Fruska Gora National Park:  Krusedol Monastery.  (Other day trips from Belgrade are available to explore other monasteries too.)

Krusedol was built between 1509-1514 and is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary.  It peaked at 90 monks in the late 17th century and has been damaged and ransacked across the centuries so many treasures, relics, etc. from the older times are gone.  Later reconstructions of the church changed its initial architecture some, creating a blended style.

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Church and inner courtyard

The monastery first greets you with a large red gate in the shape of a church and red walls.  To the left you can notice a cemetery on an uphill and you can perhaps see a family picnicking on its grounds with a cake and other food items to remember a lost one.

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The main gate

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Door of the main gate

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Perimeter wall by the main gate, notice the cemetery on top of the hill

As you enter the gate a treed field greets you as you make your way to the main compound.  You can see some quarters and stables straight ahead as you walk, and then you make a turn towards the church and main compound.

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The area between the main gate and the monastery’s compound

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Approaching the main compound. Note the old well on the left.

Inside the church, there are icons dating back to the 17th century though the frescoes, I understand, may be more recent or recently touched up.  It is an understated place of worship, meaning it is not grandiose but still inspiring.

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Entrance to the church

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel, Serbian fresco

Remnants of the fresco above the door (no photos allowed inside)

I recommend a visit to either this or other monasteries to get a sense of the important role these places had for centuries, much as they did in other places (see my visit to Moldova‘s monasteries here).

Sremski Karlovci

Near Novi Sad sits the small town of Sremski Karlovci, a charming and historically important town of about 9,000 in Serbia’s northern Vojvodina province.  The town is right outside the Fruska Gora National Park along the shores of the Danube River.  The town makes for a convenient stop when going to or coming back from visiting Novi Sad.  Combined with the monastery visit, it is a great day trip from Belgrade though I would personally rather spend a few days exploring the Vojvodina province which offers a lot more.  It was a weekend day when I visited and people were out and about.  Though there was a little rain, it still felt that the place was alive (vs. some other towns I have visited that seem completely devoid of people on a weekend day!).

The town, as many places in this part of Europe, went back and forth between different rulers.  Some of the most important ones were Hapsburg Austria and the Ottoman Empire.  Sremski Karlovci served as the meeting point when an important peace treaty was agreed to by both sides at the end of the 17th century.  The town, in general, served as an important center of Serbia’s political, cultural, and spiritual life during the Austrian rule.  The town boasts Serbia’s first secondary school and its first seminary.  The secondary school or “gymnasium” is really colorful – architectural eye-candy.

Karlovci Gymnasium, Sremski Karlovci high school, Serbian architecture

Karlovci Gymnasium (high school)

Other cool buildings include the Patriarchate (where the Serbian Orthodox Church leader -or Patriarch- used to reside, built at the end of the 19th century), the City Hall (built around 1810), and random buildings in various states of restoration / health!

Patriarchate Court, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, architecture, Serbian Orthodox Church

Patriarchate Court

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City Hall

old buildings in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia architecture

Notice the roof lines, especially on the rightmost structure!

I found it really cool that the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity in the town’s center sit next to each other.  I like the symbolism…

St, Nicholas, St. Nikolaj, Serbian Orthodox Church, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

St. Nicholas Serbian Orthodox Church

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Interior of St. Nicholas Church during a service

Holy Trinity Church, Catholic Church in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

The Four Lions fountain sits in front of the Catholic Church and, allegedly, if you drink its waters, you will come back to town and get married.  I didn’t test the premise…

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

The Four Lions fountain

Many other beautiful buildings border the center of town (not quite a “square”) and they hold important spots in Serbian history.  It is a nice town to walk around and enjoy the architecture, the charm, and the happenstance of small town life.

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

A dog’s rough life by the fountain!

Fruska Gora’s Bermet wine

After some of that wandering, a stop at a local winery is a good idea.  The one we visited did not take walk-ins so be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. The winery itself was in a cool (temperature and ambience!) setting and had some nice old artifacts.

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia

Tunnels where the wine is stored

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia

Public area at the winery

We sampled the local specialty wine of Bermet, supposed to be the favorite dessert wine of European courts.  It originates from the Fruska Gora region of the Vojvodina and I not only sampled, but took a bottle with me to share with my family when I met up with them the next day in Prague!

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia, Fruska Gora

Nice stuff!

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia, Fruska Gora

It was superb! Živeli !

9 Cool Places to See in Belgrade, Serbia

Serbia is in a unique spot in what seems to be where Central and Eastern Europe meet.  It very likely is not in the top 10 target destinations for someone from North America but, of course, that means nothing to me:  I had in on my list of places to see (it is a very long list!).  Being surrounded by many countries I have visited added to the curiosity since none of those countries were alike.  I wanted to see if Serbia was akin to any of the others I had seen.  I learned it was an interesting place rich with history and cool places to see.

Initially, this trip to Europe was anchored on Prague, Vienna and Budapest – destinations my cousin had been targeting – but I thought it was the perfect trip into which to incorporate a visit to Serbia.  I flew in from the U.S. via Charles de Gaulle in Paris and, when I left, I flew from Belgrade to Prague to meet up with my cousin and the others on the trip.

Impressions of Serbia’s Capital:  Belgrade

Of course, the trip began in Belgrade, its capital city.  I did not know what to expect.  Was it more like its Central European neighbors’ capital cities or more like its Eastern European neighbors’ capital cities?  Well, I could not quite peg to either and that was actually kind of cool.  Its unique placement at the confluence of two large rivers (the Danube being one and the Sava being the other), its strategic location over centuries of fighting back and forth between Ottomans and Europeans, and its more gradual transition out of a Communist (though milder than other Eastern European countries) past lent it a very different feel than any of the other cities in the region.

Cool Places to See in Belgrade

Belgrade is a city with plenty of places to check out.  They are not all concentrated in one core part so a good plan or a guided tour (see next section) is best.  I explored many of these through the guided tour but also by exploring on my own before and after the tour.  I enjoyed the mix of sites that I got to explore, some for the history, some for the views, and some to just stroll through and relax!  Here is my list of cool places to see in Belgrade.

1 – Tašmajdan Park and St. Mark’s Orthodox Church

  • Tašmajdan is a quiet city park near by the Metropol Palace Hotel and Parliament, with great paths for walking or jogging.  It also hosts special events; there were fireworks there one of the nights I was in town.
  • At one end of it (towards Parliament) is the beautiful church of St. Mark‘s which is nicely illuminated at night.  It was only built in the mid-20th century but that does not take away from its beauty.  The prior church built on that side was destroyed during World War I.

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade,, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Looking at St. Mark’s from the park

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade,, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Interior of St. Mark

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Main avenue by the park (Bulevar kralja Aleksandra)

    Tašmajdan Park, Belgrade park, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Memorial at the park for children who died in 1999 NATO bombings of the city

2 – Tito Mausoleum

  • Josip Broz Tito was the leader of Communist Yugoslavia for most of its existence.  But he was also a World War II hero to the country.
  • He also led the Non-Aligned Movement that sought to create a sphere separate from U.S. and Soviet leadership though, in the end, it is hard to believe its full neutrality when Soviet puppets like Cuba were part of it…
  • In any case, parts of the site are undergoing renovations but the mausoleum itself containing his tomb (and his wife’s who lived an extra 33 years mostly under something akin to house arrest) is open.  It is also known as the House of Flowers.
  • It so happened that it was the anniversary of Tito’s death when I visited so every visitor was handed lapel pins with his image.
  • The site is not in the heart of the city but I’d say it is worth the effort if you like history or are curious about the Cold War that now seems something so distant to many…

    Tito mausoleum, Belgrade, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija, Josip Broz Tito

    Tito’s tomb

3 – Belgrade Fortress

  • Belgrade sits by the intersection of the Sava and Danube rivers.  That intersection is best appreciated from a park at Belgrade Fortress.
  • Belgrade Fortress has a long history and its construction / expansion happened under different “regimes” over the centuries.  It is an interesting place to explore but make sure someone explains that history so you can better appreciate the site.
  • Suffice it to say that the site’s origins go back to when the settlement was that of a Celtic tribe around 300 B.C. and later became a Roman one.  It developed over time into the larger fortress evidenced today at the site.
  • But not without many instances of being destroyed and rebuilt.  One such installment happened in the 18th century when Austria returned the area to the Ottoman Empire but had to destroy the fortifications as part of the terms agreed to…
  • Kalemegdan Park abuts the fortress and it is a place to enjoy a break from all the exploring and watch life go by.

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija

    One of the main gates to the fortress

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija

    The walls of the fortress show different construction periods

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija, Danube and Sava rivers

    View of the intersection of the Danube River (top right) with the Sava River

4 – Avala Tower

  • Outside the city, the Avala Tower (over 200m tall) offers great views of the region around Belgrade and the city itself.  It is worth trekking out there and paying to go up for the views.
  • The original tower was lost to NATO bombings in 1999 so the tower now on the site is only around 10 years old.

    Avala Tower, Beograd, Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija

    The tower is not really inclined!

    Avala Tower, Beograd, Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija

    My only photo of the view has me as an accessory…

5 – Monument to the Unknown Hero

  • The monument is located really close to the Avala Tower making the extra distance to go see one be even more worth it.
  • It was built before World War II to commemorate an unknown World War I soldier tomb found there.
  • The structure atop a steep flight of stairs is quite impressive.  It is decorated with massive statues of women in local attire representing the various areas of the former Yugoslavia.  The plaza around it is quite pleasant and a nice spot to rest.

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Nice path leads to the monument atop the staircase

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Two of the eight statues atop the monument

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Great, placid vistas of the countryside

6 – Strolling through the streets of Belgrade

  • Belgrade is not enjoying the money brought in by big tourism as other cities like Prague may be.  While the limited investment is visible, it lends great charm to the city as it does not feel amusement-park like.  It feels like a regular city, with character and history both of which afford the attentive eye good opportunities for cool photos!
  • The Dorćol district right by the Danube is a cool one to walk around.  Though damaged during Allied bombing in World War II, you can appreciate how Belgrade must have felt like back in the day.  It is interesting to see a rare mosque from around the 17th century almost around the corner from the Jewish Historical Museum.
  • The area known as Skadarlija is supposed to be fun and bohemian district of Belgrade.  I did not spend time there but heard many good things about it.

    charming streetcar, tram in Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, streetscene

    Charming old tram

    architecture of Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, arquitectura

    Beautiful building!

    street art, graffitti, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Street art is not only a Belgrade thing but I liked this one

    architecture of Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, arquitectura

    Another great piece of architecture near Belgrade Fortress

7 – The small town of Zemun

  • Now a “suburb” of greater Belgrade (New Belgrade), it used to be its own town dating back to Roman times (as does part of Old Belgrade).
  • Its Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower) is a short climb but being located atop a hill, it offers nice views towards Old Belgrade.  Seemingly its grounds are also popular among couples getting married for photos of the big day!  The tower was built at the end of the 19th century and it is well worth heading there.
  • Coming down to the main square, we stopped a corner bakery where I was introduced to a delicious Serbian cheese-filled pastry called burek.  Spectacular!

    Gardoš Tower, Millennium Tower, Kula Sibinjanin Janka

    The Gardoš Tower

    Gardoš Tower, Millennium Tower, Kula Sibinjanin Janka

    The view from up high with yours truly

    burek, Serbian pastry, belgrade, beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Burek!

8 – Church of St. Sava

  • Unfortunately, this important and large Serbian Orthodox Church, was not open during my visit.  Construction started in the 1930s and it is still being finished though most of it seems to nbe done.
  • An interesting factoid is that its main dome was built on the grounded and lifted into position in 1989.
  • Though the main part of the church is not open, the crypt was.  It was quite beautiful.

    St. Sava, orthodox church, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Exterior

    St. Sava, orthodox church, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Nicely illuminated crypt!

9 – The Nikola Tesla Museum and the nearby Kultura Bar

As an electrical engineer (though I may not remember most of what I learned in those university years past!), visiting the birth city of Nikola Tesla presented the opportunity to explore the local museum dedicated to him.  Now, Mr. Tesla moved early on to the United States but still it is his birth city so a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum was top on my list.  The museum is a little different than most museums in that you can only enter it on the hour and the group is capped as the experience is partially guided.  It starts with a 15-minute movie followed by exploring the concepts Tesla worked with – hands-on.  One has to look in advance to see for a given time slot what language is the guided tour offered in so one doesn’t show up -as I did- at a time in a language one doesn’t understand…

Unfortunately, my first attempt was at the correct language for English but I didn’t get to make it in as the group was maxed out.  Luckily for me, I had read in advance of cool local bars and one of the top ones was one block away so I went over to have a drink and, I thought, kill 45 minutes so I could get into the next group (which was in English).  Well, that was a great plan except the bar, Kultura Bar, was so quaint and the bar staff so friendly that I just stayed on 2-3 hours and missed the opportunity to visit the museum.  Now that is going with the flow!  Their tequila-based Old Fashioned was pretty darn good!

cool places to see in Belgrade, Kultura Bar, Beograd, Srbija, belgrado, Serbia

Interior of the Kultura Bar

How best to explore Belgrade:  small group guided tour

Since my time in Serbia was very limited, I signed up for a small group Belgrade tour to maximize the number of sights I could visit without worrying about how to get to places or getting distracted (see the prior section on the failed Nikola Tesla museum visit!).  The smaller group is more manageable for the tour guide as the vehicle can be smaller and he can get to talk with everyone standing just right around him.  It also moves faster as there is less chance of people holding the group up.

This was a great idea as the sites to visit were not necessarily within easy walking distance from each other.  We did have a part of the tour that allowed us to walk around through the heart of the city which was nice as we got to mix being driven places with enough time out and about.  The tour allowed me to get a good sense of the city and where things were for future reference.

You can probably find a number of operators out there without me talking about who I used.  I found the guide for this tour very ready to help us learn about Belgrade and Serbia and proud of his town.  Vert cool


My next day in Serbia was spent going outside of Belgrade to explore Serbia’s second city, the jewel town of Novi Sad.  More on that in an upcoming post!  In the meantime, pin this image to your travel board!

belgrade, belgrado, beograd, serbia, srbija, unknown hero, statue

 

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