Europe - ilivetotravel's travel log

Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

1 August 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin. I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.). This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere. More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck. It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town: Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea. I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate. And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm. Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that. But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

I have to be frank: I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip. Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar. I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia. Its origins can be traced to the 1100s. I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903! Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around. Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot. It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings. And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed. Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start. Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II.

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960. The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design. That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened. Powerful.

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The bell tower from 2 sides

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.

Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower. It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part. So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!

salmon, German potato cakes, German food, comida alemana, Wismar, Germany

This was an amazing lunch and a nice break from sightseeing!

Beautiful image to close out this post on this charming Baltic town!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, brick Gothic architecture, churches in the former East Germany, Communist towns in Germany, discover Germany, East Germany, Hanseatic League towns, reise, travel, travel in Germany, turismo, Wismar

4 Tips to Visit the Charles Bridge in Prague

17 July 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

The Charles Bridge in Prague deserves every bit of fame it gets for gracing and connecting Prague – a quite unique town itself. The Charles Bridge spans the Vltava River (not the Danube!) and provides ample photo opportunities for selfie-crazed tourists or normal tourists! I got to check it out or walk on it to get places and want to share four tips to visit the Charles Bridge as an excuse to showcase my photos 🙂

A little history of the Charles Bridge in Prague

Construction of the bridge began in the 1300s to replace a prior one and it was finished in 1402. Now THAT is an old bridge! The King that ordered its construction was Charles, hence the name of the bridge, though that name is a relatively recent name actually. For hundreds of years, it was the only way to cross the river other than a boat.

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Old relief carving of the city shows the bridge already crowded!

The bridge is about 600m long and has 16 arches holding it up. It was cool to see the ice breaking structures protecting the pillars though I did not see them “in action” as I went in the spring.

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #1 – the statues

My first tip is to not just look at the statues that grace either side of the bridge and snap a photo, but to read about them as you look at them. They are mainly not the original statues but replicas. Now, there are many (perhaps around 32?) so maybe you will not have time or attention span to do that with all of them (I didn’t!) but there is a lot of meaning and stories behind the people. These statues were placed there to convey stories or values, memorialize individuals, and perhaps to add grace to the bridge. Mind them!

One of the many statues on the bridge!

While the statues are the dominant “decoration” of the bridge, there are a few plaques or carvings worth noting (and reading of in advance!).

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, John Nepomuceno

Carvingn depicting St. John Nepomuk being thrown off the bridge under orders of King Wenceslas

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #2 – the light and time of day

OK, my next tip is that there are many angles for a good photo but which angle is best varies with the time of day as the sun changes position in the sky. I recommend going at different times throughout the day so you can face the sun as you take that priceless group photo or selfie with different sides of the city behind you. And that includes nighttime!

Early in the morning – beautiful angle

Night time looking towards Prague Castle

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #3 – the underside

Of course, people spend the time during the visit ON the bridge. But, I ventured a little bit on the Prague Castle side of the bridge in the residential area BELOW the bridge. It was charming (and quiet at that early time of the day). I wonder how the residents cope with the hordes of us tourists all over the area during the day… In any case, you will find the entrance to staircases to take you down right on the bridge, or you can enter the area near the tower on the Prague Castle end of it. Get off the bridge and explore its “underside”!

Right under the bridge

Around the small neighborhood under the bridge

And you never know when you will spot wedding photo sessions!

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Memorial to the 911 NYC firemen who died – unexpected find!

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #4 – when to spend time there

My top tip for visiting the Charles Bridge is to go early in the morning, before the city gets crowded with locals and tourists. I am an early riser and while the rest of my group woke up and got ready, since we were staying a block away from the bridge, I went for a walk and almost had the bridge all to myself!

The same shot in the afternoon would look very different as the sun would light the photo differently

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Hope these tips to visit the Charles Bridge in Prague are helpful. Enjoy checking out the Charles Bridge – and Prague!

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Filed Under: Czech Republic, Europe, Travel Journal Tagged With: Charles Bridge, Czech, Czechia, photo spot, Praga, Prague, Praha, tourism, travel

Serbia’s Novi Sad and Its Petrovaradin Fortress

13 June 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

As part of my short visit to Serbia, I wanted to check out the town of Novi Sad, not far from Belgrade. I combined it with exploring Fruska Gora and its vicinity. I went in a small guided tour which, unfortunately, mainly gave us free time in Novi Sad; i.e., not much in terms of a guided tour there. But it did spend time at the Petrovaradin Fortress and covered it pretty well.

I have to admit not knowing much about Novi Sad before planning my trip and had never heard about the fortress at all. But that’s why I travel: to learn of the things that have not crossed my path before and then to get to see them in person! A lot of the learning happens while researching potential destinations and then when the planning begins: studying the destination to allocate my time there to those things that catch my eye the most, be it a high point (in Lübeck, Germany), a unique sight (the DMZ in Korea), a historic building (the monstrous Parliament in Bucharest), or just food (in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood)!

Petrovaradin Fortress

The Petrovaradin Fortress sits high along the banks of the Danube River facing the center of Novi Sad. Its unique vantage point provides great views of the river, the bridges crossing it, the main part of the city, and the surroundings of the fort itself. The site seems to have hosted human settlement and early fortifications from before the times when Romans established themselves there. Petrovaradin was a key battleground in the Hapsburg Empire (Austria) pushing back the Ottoman Empire one final time away from being a threat to Central Europe. Its fortress’ buildings and walls have been built, maintained, enhanced, etc. over the centuries.

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

Entrance to the fort

Walking along the uppermost walls facing the Danube

One can explore the fortress and its massive walls by walking around

A curiosity of the fortress is the clock tower. It was built with the hour hand being longer than the minute hand, contrary to most clocks that are not digital 🙂

Clock tower; it was around 12:45PM

Supposedly Petrovaradin has miles of anti-mine tunnels underneath but we did not get to see them; perhaps they are in disrepair and not safe? Petrovaradin was more than just a fortress. It was a fortified area with exterior walls protecting an area with many buildings. In any case, the site was impressive to me for two main reasons: the scale of the fortifications that one can see and the great location up high so one can soak in Novi Sad and the Danube River.

View towards the city center of Novi Sad

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Petrovaradin Fortress, Петроварадинска тврђава, Petrovaradinska tvrđava

Area right below the viewing area is part of the fortified area

Modern road crossing the “moat” and going through massive walls

Fortifications facing the Danube River

Novi Sad’s city center

Novi Sad is Serbia’s second largest city with about a quarter million inhabitants – nice size: not too big, not too small! It resides in the Vojvodina autonomous province and serves as its capital. The city actually does not pre-date the Petrovaradin Fortress but the other way around. As cities go in this part of the world, it is ONLY slightly over 300 years old. A baby by European standards but ancient by U.S. standards!!

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

Bishop’s Palace from 1901 – interesting mix of styles

St. George’s Orthodox Cathedral

Novi Sad suffered a lot of damage in shelling that took place in the mid 19-century. The main square and neighboring streets, though, contain many charming buildings with architecture that I associate with 19th century Central Europe. I wish I had had more time to walk further out than I did.

The Name of Mary Catholic Church

Other angle on the church and nearby buildings on the square

Roof of the Church of the Holy Name of Mary

While there are beautiful buildings from back when, one can also spot some post-WW II modern buildings here and there in the city center, with more of them to be found as one moves out, I am sure.

Great contrast of old and new

Old and new again but the new is less so than the prior photo…

As I ventured outwards from the main square, I spotted what I am guessing is the bar/party street of the city center. But, it was around lunchtime so no parties going on!

Party street!

I enjoyed strolling down the pedestrian streets filled with shops and cafés, while looking at the neat buildings all around. While this was just a short visit to get a mental image of Novi Sad, it looks like a relaxed town to spend time at. Perhaps I will get to visit it again some day!

The Hotel Vojvodina in the main square

A building near the main square

City Hall on the left built in 1894

Check out what cool places to see in Belgrade!

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Central Europe travel, Danube River, Novi Sad, Petrovaradin Fortress, Serbia, Srbija

Fruska Gora: An Easy and Rewarding Day Trip from Belgrade

3 June 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

The Fruska Gora (Fruška Gora, Фрушка гора) mountain gives the name to the national park in Serbia around which many monasteries, charming towns, and vineyards can be found, just an hour or less away from Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, and much closer to Serbia’s second town, Novi Sad. The Fruska Gora National Park runs east to west, almost or barely spilling into neighboring Croatia. While we drove through parts of it, we did not explore it but, instead, checked out some of the places right outside its borders.

Driving in the area, on my way to Novi Sad from Belgrade (and now, while looking at my photos) makes me wish I could have spent a week just exploring every corner of this area in north Serbia bordering eastern Croatia and southern Hungary. Such natural beauty, such complicated history, and so easy to explore!

On my recent trip to Serbia, I was based in Belgrade where I enjoyed sightseeing. I have learned that in many Central and Eastern European countries, the country’s second largest city tends to be more charming and relaxed than the capital cities (Poland/Krakow, Bulgaria/Plovdiv, Romania/Brasov, etc.) so I booked a day trip to Novi Sad. However, the one I decided upon would show me a glimpse of the area in and around the Fruška Gora National Park which I thought would add to my exploring by seeing something beyond two cities.

It was a good decision. First off, we visited the Krusedol Monastery, and then we visited the colorful town of Sremski Karlovci where -bonus- I got to sample the local Bermet wine! Win, win, and triple win!

Krusedol (Krušedol) Monastery

Serbia is known for the monasteries that grace its land. Many were built in the Middle Ages and have seen the sweeps of history cross this country placed in a unique geographical crossroads (some, in fact, did not survive those “sweeps”). From what I have read, the monasteries are quite diverse in their design and location (cliff face, valleys, etc.). This page in the Serbia.com website shows a few images that convey this diversity. In our visit, we stopped at what I would assume is a more conventional monastery near the Fruska Gora National Park: Krusedol Monastery. (Other day trips from Belgrade are available to explore other monasteries too.)

Krusedol was built between 1509-1514 and is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. It peaked at 90 monks in the late 17th century and has been damaged and ransacked across the centuries so many treasures, relics, etc. from the older times are gone. Later reconstructions of the church changed its initial architecture some, creating a blended style.

Krusedol Monastery, church, Serbian Orthodox, Srbija, Serbia, Belgrade day trip, travel

Church and inner courtyard

The monastery first greets you with a large red gate in the shape of a church and red walls. To the left you can notice a cemetery on an uphill and you can perhaps see a family picnicking on its grounds with a cake and other food items to remember a lost one.

The main gate

Door of the main gate

Perimeter wall by the main gate, notice the cemetery on top of the hill

As you enter the gate a treed field greets you as you make your way to the main compound. You can see some quarters and stables straight ahead as you walk, and then you make a turn towards the church and main compound.

The area between the main gate and the monastery’s compound

Approaching the main compound. Note the old well on the left.

Inside the church, there are icons dating back to the 17th century though the frescoes, I understand, may be more recent or recently touched up. It is an understated place of worship, meaning it is not grandiose but still inspiring.

Entrance to the church

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Remnants of the fresco above the door (no photos allowed inside)

I recommend a visit to either this or other monasteries to get a sense of the important role these places had for centuries, much as they did in other places (see my visit to Moldova‘s monasteries here).

Sremski Karlovci

Near Novi Sad sits the small town of Sremski Karlovci, a charming and historically important town of about 9,000 in Serbia’s northern Vojvodina province. The town is right outside the Fruska Gora National Park along the shores of the Danube River. The town makes for a convenient stop when going to or coming back from visiting Novi Sad. Combined with the monastery visit, it is a great day trip from Belgrade though I would personally rather spend a few days exploring the Vojvodina province which offers a lot more. It was a weekend day when I visited and people were out and about. Though there was a little rain, it still felt that the place was alive (vs. some other towns I have visited that seem completely devoid of people on a weekend day!).

The town, as many places in this part of Europe, went back and forth between different rulers. Some of the most important ones were Hapsburg Austria and the Ottoman Empire. Sremski Karlovci served as the meeting point when an important peace treaty was agreed to by both sides at the end of the 17th century. The town, in general, served as an important center of Serbia’s political, cultural, and spiritual life during the Austrian rule. The town boasts Serbia’s first secondary school and its first seminary. The secondary school or “gymnasium” is really colorful – architectural eye-candy.

Karlovci Gymnasium, Sremski Karlovci high school, Serbian architecture

Karlovci Gymnasium (high school)

Other cool buildings include the Patriarchate (where the Serbian Orthodox Church leader -or Patriarch- used to reside, built at the end of the 19th century), the City Hall (built around 1810), and random buildings in various states of restoration / health!

Patriarchate Court

City Hall

old buildings in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia architecture

Notice the roof lines, especially on the rightmost structure!

I found it really cool that the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity in the town’s center sit next to each other. I like the symbolism…

St, Nicholas, St. Nikolaj, Serbian Orthodox Church, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

St. Nicholas Serbian Orthodox Church

Interior of St. Nicholas Church during a service

Holy Trinity Church, Catholic Church in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

The Four Lions fountain sits in front of the Catholic Church and, allegedly, if you drink its waters, you will come back to town and get married. I didn’t test the premise…

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

The Four Lions fountain

Many other beautiful buildings border the center of town (not quite a “square”) and they hold important spots in Serbian history. It is a nice town to walk around and enjoy the architecture, the charm, and the happenstance of small town life.

A dog’s rough life by the fountain!

Fruska Gora’s Bermet wine

After some of that wandering, a stop at a local winery is a good idea. The one we visited did not take walk-ins so be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. The winery itself was in a cool (temperature and ambience!) setting and had some nice old artifacts.

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia

Tunnels where the wine is stored

Public area at the winery

We sampled the local specialty wine of Bermet, supposed to be the favorite dessert wine of European courts. It originates from the Fruska Gora region of the Vojvodina and I not only sampled, but took a bottle with me to share with my family when I met up with them the next day in Prague!

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia, Fruska Gora

Nice stuff!

It was superb! Živeli !

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Belgrade day trip, Bermet wine, Fruska Gora, Krusedol Monastery, Novi Sad, Serbian dessert wine, Serbian monastery, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

9 Cool Places to See in Belgrade, Serbia

27 May 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

Serbia is in a unique spot in what seems to be where Central and Eastern Europe meet. It very likely is not in the top 10 target destinations for someone from North America but, of course, that means nothing to me: I had in on my list of places to see (it is a very long list!). Being surrounded by many countries I have visited added to the curiosity since none of those countries were alike. I wanted to see if Serbia was akin to any of the others I had seen. I learned it was an interesting place rich with history and cool places to see.

Initially, this trip to Europe was anchored on Prague, Vienna and Budapest – destinations my cousin had been targeting – but I thought it was the perfect trip into which to incorporate a visit to Serbia. I flew in from the U.S. via Charles de Gaulle in Paris and, when I left, I flew from Belgrade to Prague to meet up with my cousin and the others on the trip.

Impressions of Serbia’s Capital: Belgrade

Of course, the trip began in Belgrade, its capital city. I did not know what to expect. Was it more like its Central European neighbors’ capital cities or more like its Eastern European neighbors’ capital cities? Well, I could not quite peg to either and that was actually kind of cool. Its unique placement at the confluence of two large rivers (the Danube being one and the Sava being the other), its strategic location over centuries of fighting back and forth between Ottomans and Europeans, and its more gradual transition out of a Communist (though milder than other Eastern European countries) past lent it a very different feel than any of the other cities in the region.

Cool Places to See in Belgrade

Belgrade is a city with plenty of places to check out. They are not all concentrated in one core part so a good plan or a guided tour (see next section) is best. I explored many of these through the guided tour but also by exploring on my own before and after the tour. I enjoyed the mix of sites that I got to explore, some for the history, some for the views, and some to just stroll through and relax! Here is my list of cool places to see in Belgrade.

1 – Tašmajdan Park and St. Mark’s Orthodox Church

Tašmajdan is a quiet city park near by the Metropol Palace Hotel and Parliament, with great paths for walking or jogging. It also hosts special events; there were fireworks there one of the nights I was in town.
At one end of it (towards Parliament) is the beautiful church of St. Mark‘s which is nicely illuminated at night. It was only built in the mid-20th century but that does not take away from its beauty. The prior church built on that side was destroyed during World War I.
Looking at St. Mark’s from the park

Interior of St. Mark

Main avenue by the park (Bulevar kralja Aleksandra)

Memorial at the park for children who died in 1999 NATO bombings of the city

2 – Tito Mausoleum

Josip Broz Tito was the leader of Communist Yugoslavia for most of its existence. But he was also a World War II hero to the country.
He also led the Non-Aligned Movement that sought to create a sphere separate from U.S. and Soviet leadership though, in the end, it is hard to believe its full neutrality when Soviet puppets like Cuba were part of it…
In any case, parts of the site are undergoing renovations but the mausoleum itself containing his tomb (and his wife’s who lived an extra 33 years mostly under something akin to house arrest) is open. It is also known as the House of Flowers.
It so happened that it was the anniversary of Tito’s death when I visited so every visitor was handed lapel pins with his image.
The site is not in the heart of the city but I’d say it is worth the effort if you like history or are curious about the Cold War that now seems something so distant to many…
Tito’s tomb

3 – Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade sits by the intersection of the Sava and Danube rivers. That intersection is best appreciated from a park at Belgrade Fortress.
Belgrade Fortress has a long history and its construction / expansion happened under different “regimes” over the centuries. It is an interesting place to explore but make sure someone explains that history so you can better appreciate the site.
Suffice it to say that the site’s origins go back to when the settlement was that of a Celtic tribe around 300 B.C. and later became a Roman one. It developed over time into the larger fortress evidenced today at the site.
But not without many instances of being destroyed and rebuilt. One such installment happened in the 18th century when Austria returned the area to the Ottoman Empire but had to destroy the fortifications as part of the terms agreed to…
Kalemegdan Park abuts the fortress and it is a place to enjoy a break from all the exploring and watch life go by.
One of the main gates to the fortress

The walls of the fortress show different construction periods

View of the intersection of the Danube River (top right) with the Sava River

4 – Avala Tower

Outside the city, the Avala Tower (over 200m tall) offers great views of the region around Belgrade and the city itself. It is worth trekking out there and paying to go up for the views.
The original tower was lost to NATO bombings in 1999 so the tower now on the site is only around 10 years old.
The tower is not really inclined!

My only photo of the view has me as an accessory…

5 – Monument to the Unknown Hero

The monument is located really close to the Avala Tower making the extra distance to go see one be even more worth it.
It was built before World War II to commemorate an unknown World War I soldier tomb found there.
The structure atop a steep flight of stairs is quite impressive. It is decorated with massive statues of women in local attire representing the various areas of the former Yugoslavia. The plaza around it is quite pleasant and a nice spot to rest.
Nice path leads to the monument atop the staircase

Two of the eight statues atop the monument

Great, placid vistas of the countryside

6 – Strolling through the streets of Belgrade

Belgrade is not enjoying the money brought in by big tourism as other cities like Prague may be. While the limited investment is visible, it lends great charm to the city as it does not feel amusement-park like. It feels like a regular city, with character and history both of which afford the attentive eye good opportunities for cool photos!
The Dorćol district right by the Danube is a cool one to walk around. Though damaged during Allied bombing in World War II, you can appreciate how Belgrade must have felt like back in the day. It is interesting to see a rare mosque from around the 17th century almost around the corner from the Jewish Historical Museum.
The area known as Skadarlija is supposed to be fun and bohemian district of Belgrade. I did not spend time there but heard many good things about it.
Charming old tram

Beautiful building!

Street art is not only a Belgrade thing but I liked this one

Another great piece of architecture near Belgrade Fortress

7 – The small town of Zemun

Now a “suburb” of greater Belgrade (New Belgrade), it used to be its own town dating back to Roman times (as does part of Old Belgrade).
Its Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower) is a short climb but being located atop a hill, it offers nice views towards Old Belgrade. Seemingly its grounds are also popular among couples getting married for photos of the big day! The tower was built at the end of the 19th century and it is well worth heading there.
Coming down to the main square, we stopped a corner bakery where I was introduced to a delicious Serbian cheese-filled pastry called burek. Spectacular!
The Gardoš Tower

The view from up high with yours truly

Burek!

8 – Church of St. Sava

Unfortunately, this important and large Serbian Orthodox Church, was not open during my visit. Construction started in the 1930s and it is still being finished though most of it seems to nbe done.
An interesting factoid is that its main dome was built on the grounded and lifted into position in 1989.
Though the main part of the church is not open, the crypt was. It was quite beautiful.
Exterior

Nicely illuminated crypt!

9 – The Nikola Tesla Museum and the nearby Kultura Bar

As an electrical engineer (though I may not remember most of what I learned in those university years past!), visiting the birth city of Nikola Tesla presented the opportunity to explore the local museum dedicated to him. Now, Mr. Tesla moved early on to the United States but still it is his birth city so a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum was top on my list. The museum is a little different than most museums in that you can only enter it on the hour and the group is capped as the experience is partially guided. It starts with a 15-minute movie followed by exploring the concepts Tesla worked with – hands-on. One has to look in advance to see for a given time slot what language is the guided tour offered in so one doesn’t show up -as I did- at a time in a language one doesn’t understand…

Unfortunately, my first attempt was at the correct language for English but I didn’t get to make it in as the group was maxed out. Luckily for me, I had read in advance of cool local bars and one of the top ones was one block away so I went over to have a drink and, I thought, kill 45 minutes so I could get into the next group (which was in English). Well, that was a great plan except the bar, Kultura Bar, was so quaint and the bar staff so friendly that I just stayed on 2-3 hours and missed the opportunity to visit the museum. Now that is going with the flow! Their tequila-based Old Fashioned was pretty darn good!

cool places to see in Belgrade, Kultura Bar, Beograd, Srbija, belgrado, Serbia

Interior of the Kultura Bar

How best to explore Belgrade: small group guided tour

Since my time in Serbia was very limited, I signed up for a small group Belgrade tour to maximize the number of sights I could visit without worrying about how to get to places or getting distracted (see the prior section on the failed Nikola Tesla museum visit!). The smaller group is more manageable for the tour guide as the vehicle can be smaller and he can get to talk with everyone standing just right around him. It also moves faster as there is less chance of people holding the group up.

This was a great idea as the sites to visit were not necessarily within easy walking distance from each other. We did have a part of the tour that allowed us to walk around through the heart of the city which was nice as we got to mix being driven places with enough time out and about. The tour allowed me to get a good sense of the city and where things were for future reference.

You can probably find a number of operators out there without me talking about who I used. I found the guide for this tour very ready to help us learn about Belgrade and Serbia and proud of his town. Vert cool

My next day in Serbia was spent going outside of Belgrade to explore Serbia’s second city, the jewel town of Novi Sad. More on that in an upcoming post! In the meantime, pin this image to your travel board!

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia Tagged With: Avala Tower, Belgrade, Belgrado, Beograd, cool places to see in Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija, St. Sava, Tito Mausoleum, travel, Yugoslavia, Zemun

How to See Lübeck, Germany – from Up High

4 March 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Lübeck, Germany is an amazing medieval town with lots to see and incredible architecture and streets to explore. An earlier post shares all these sights and places to explore. In this post, I share how to see Lübeck from up high. The vantage point offered by going up the tower of St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche) near the Holstentor Gate is probably best as it is almost at the center of the island where the heart of the city lies.

How to see Lübeck – first an aerial view

This aerial photo of the old town shows a couple of the places that will be mentioned – note the location of St. Peter (“St. Petri Kirche” on the map).

Looking west from St. Peter’s Church

The Holstentor Gate (shown on the map above) is the symbol of Lübeck and, short of being near it on the ground, this is the best way to appreciate it. It lies due west of St. Peter’s, a very short walk.

Salzspeicher , Holtenstor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Holtenstor Gate flanked on the left by the Salzspeicher warehouses

Salzspeicher , Holstentor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Close-up of Holstentor Gate

Salzspeicher warehouses on the Trave River in Lubeck

Looking north

Looking immediately down on the north-facing side of the viewing area, you look down on Holstenstrasse, the shopping avenue that leads to the Holstentor gate. On the top right corner, you see a bit of Marienkirche (which you can see on the map above).

Then looking up still facing north, there is Marienkirche, still being worked on as it is repaired from war damage. Amazing.

Looking east

Looking east, you see St. Aegidien Church and lots of green in the background. St. Aegidien’s Church honors an abbot born in the 7th century in Athens, Greece who lived most of his life in south France. The history of a church on that site dates back from the 13th century and the church has mostly survived the ravages of war…

St. Aegidien Church

Looking northeast

Looking sort of to the northeast from St. Peter’s, one sees the historical main square and market area. On the left with a low white facade and a brick structure behind it with copper/green towers are city government offices. Towards the centre of the buildings on the market is the Niederegger Café where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a deliciously decadent cake made of marzipan. Mmm!!

Tip: Go through the arcade to the street behind and you will find a Niederigger store where your eyes will pop at all the amazing ways they can craft marzipan and make great sweets…

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

The main square with government offices and markets

Looking south

Looking south you see on the right the Trave River and to the left the Cathedral (Dom) of Lübeck. The cathedral suffered bombing and fire in World War II and, though some of the contents survived, it required major reconstruction that only got completed in 1982 as priority was given to re-building Marienkirche. An odd fact is that, although it is a cathedral, it is not the tallest church in town due to “competition” (or, political battles more likely) between religious authorities and guilds (which helped support their churches).

And, finally, looking southeast

The view below shows, from above, a typical street lined up with beautiful architecture. There are quite a few streets like this on the east side and south side of the town. I could have kept on walking admiring the facades of these beautiful buildings. The street seen in the center of the photo is Mühlenstrasse (look at the map at the top of this post where this street shows towards the bottom middle, and then look up on the right of the photo to see how many such side streets there are!).

You can see, I am certain, why I enjoy going up high in any town I visit so much. Seeing it from up high gives you perspective and a sense of the lay of the land that a map just doesn’t do justice to. Be it Bologna, Sydney, Berlin, Chicago or Lübeck, it is always worth the climb (or elevator ride where available!).

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: exploring Lübeck, How to See Lübeck, Lübeck Germany, Niederegger marzipan, things to see in Lübeck, views of Lubeck

A German Coastal Town on the Baltic Sea

17 December 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

The German coastal town of Travemünde faces the Baltic Sea in the northern part of the country. It is where the Trave River, which runs through Lübeck, Germany, meets the sea. It is also one of many German coastal towns on the Baltic Sea where Germans flock for fun in the sun in the summertime.

We stayed in nearby Schlutup which, though on the coast, is not itself such a beach town. And while not a tourist destination, it offered a glimpse into more residential areas and a Cold War curiosity (read on…) Looking to explore the more touristy coastal towns we spent half a day walking around Travemünde and also enjoyed dinner at nearby Timmendorfer Strand.

Exploring Travemünde

Travemünde first came to being as a fortress around the 12th century but the fortifications are long gone. It is now better known as a resort town and the port hosting ferries.

After driving into town and picking a residential street not far from the waterfront to park, we walked along the street noticing the architecture of the homes and walked past a church where a wedding had just taken place.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, church — Inside of 13th century St. Laurence Church

From there we meandered through small and picturesque side streets until we made it to the waterfront enjoying the architecture of this Baltic Sea coastal town.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture — Street in Travemunde

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal town — Charming house

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal towns — Oldest house in Travemunde dating from the mid-16th century

Architecture detail, German architecture, Baltic coastal town, Travemunde, Germany, Deustchland — Architectural detail

Typical beach town scene in Travemünde

Travemünde’s waterfront is not atypical from other beach towns anywhere, really. A nice path along the water allows one to go for a nice long walk. Towards the end of the path there was a fair or festival taking place with temporary large and small tents with music and food.

Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal towns — Time to sit down and enjoy a beverage!

Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal town

We opted to walk back to the main part of the waterfront with its shops and eateries and picked one with tables out by the waterfront to enjoy a beer and watch life go by.

Being peak summer time, there were a lot of tourists in this German coastal town. Most were Germans though I would not be surprised at Danes, Swedes or others being there given the proximity. Ferries do leave from nearby to places as far as Helsinki, Finland so it is a very likely scenario.

Schlutup: Memories of the Cold War in Germany

The Cold War evokes many different memories. For many of us, the Berlin Wall is the supreme symbol of the time. For Germans, I suppose there are many more specific things and places that bring back the memories. The town of Schlutup, where we stayed, was just about 300 m (1,000 ft) from the former border between the two Germanies, likely close to being the northernmost point of the border, in a way.

Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town — House in Schlutup

It was definitely not a touristy town whether for foreigners or Germans. But it is where would found a neat water-side apartment in a two-story building to rent for a few days.

But it was on the eastern edge of the town where we found a tiny reminder of the Cold War: a local museum to the Iron Curtain and border control that existed right there while the Germanies were divided.

Grenz bei Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz — Museum was closed so photos through window had to do

Grenz am Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz

Off to dinner by the water in Timmendorfer Strand

The night of the lunar eclipse of July 2018, we picked Timmendorfer Strand as the place for dinner. We actually did it not thinking about the eclipse and it would have been an ideal spot to watch it except it was overcast.

The town felt a little less commercial but perhaps it was the part of town where our restaurant was, near residential buildings vs. commercial ones.

Our restaurant, Wolkenlos, was actually located on its own pier jutting into the water. It had windows all around and that was great though it basically grew extremely hot with the sun setting and glaring through the glass. And no air conditioning nor open windows to help. While the meal was good (and my dinner companions even more so!), we were sweating too much to say the meal experience was enjoyable.

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, schnitzel, German food — My awesome dinner: Wiener schnitzel with fries and a side salad

Enjoying the sea breeze

The restaurant did have an outside deck area so as quickly as we could get our bill and pay, we moved outside. At first standing by the railing but, as soon as a table freed up, we sat down. And that’s when I can say I enjoyed the evening fully, sipping a beverage and feeling the sea breeze. Perfect way to wrap up the day!

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town — Outdoor deck at sunset

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, sunset in Germany, German coastal town — Sunset over the beach

Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: Baltic Sea coastal town, beach in Germany, beach town in the Baltic, strand, timmendorfer, Trave River, Travemunde

What to See in Lübeck, Germany – Charming Medieval Town

11 December 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Lübeck is the best example of medieval architecture in northern Germany (so I read). In this post, I hope to share with you what to see in Lübeck whether you are planning a visit or just want to check out a lesser-known destination in Germany! I see little or nothing in blogs or social media about Lübeck. I am grateful that friends who live in Germany knew better and I got to explore Lübeck, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lübeck suffered during WW II but many medieval structures survived (two of the four city gates survived) or were re-constructed (like St. Mary’s Church); another thing to be grateful for.

A bit about the Hanseatic League

Before sharing what to see in Lübeck, a little background / history… The Hanseatic League was a commerce and defense league that operated from the 14th until the 17th century in northern Europe on the coasts of the North Sea and Baltic Sea. The town of Lübeck, in north Germany, was its capital.

The Hanseatic League was not a kingdom or a state of its own. Rather, it was a confederation of free cities and towns along the North and Baltic Seas located in what today includes The Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, Poland, Estonia, etc. Bottom line: it was about commerce and banding together to protect the towns’ rights. Smart.

Lübeck had a lot to do with the origination of the league. Its strategic location as almost a crossroads between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, and between inland Germany to Scandinavia sealed its role as the capital of this powerful entity. However, Lübeck had been an important settlement since around the 10th century, a few centuries before the Hanseatic League. Having been afforded the status of a Free Imperial City of the Holy Roman Empire in 1226 (i.e., directly overseen by the Emperor) certainly elevated its prominence and likely helped it become a center of trade that would give it its leading role in the Hanseatic League since it was the most important of all the towns in the region.

Lübeck’s location

Lübeck is in the north of Germany, not quite on the coast but a tiny bit inland. Its river, the Trave, connects to the Elbe River via a canal giving it water access to the North Sea. But Lübeck is almost at the mouth of the Trave River where it hits the Baltic Sea by the beach town of Travemünde. The old part of town is actually on an island in the Trave River but the greater Lübeck area covers a broader area, including the hamlet of Schlutup, where we stayed during our visit to the area. Schlutup was right on the western side of the former West-East Germany border during the Cold War so Lübeck was not that far from the border itself.

Visiting Lübeck is easiest from Hamburg, the closest large city (check this ilivetotravel post for the top free things to do there!). It is a short drive (about an hour or so). A commuter train ride is also possible from Hamburg.

The town’s Gothic architecture is at the heart of what to see in Lübeck

Brick Gothic is an architectural style seen in the northern parts of Europe west and east of Lübeck in Germany and Poland. The lack of stone in the region led to the reliance of bricks for construction. Old town Lübeck is a great representative of this unique architectural style as are other towns like Rostock and Wismar (of which I will write more later). Churches were built in this style but merchants’ and guilds’ buildings also built on this style. Keep an eye out for this architecture style as you see photos in this post!

Market Square

The market square, by city government offices and a short walk from St. Mary’s Church, is fairly small compared to other such squares in Europe but it does have a neat arcade worth checking out.

Also worth checking out is the Niederegger marzipan café with some amazing specialty beverages (like fancy coffee drinks) and even more spectacular desserts, some of the them using Niederegger’s well-known marzipan. Right behind this café outside of the market square is Niederegger’s main store offering a dizzyingly good array of goods. It is worth walking through, even if you are not buying anything!

Burgtor Gate

The northern gate into old town Lübeck crosses a canal from the north. It is one of the two medieval gates in town (the other being the more famous, more beautiful, and more iconic Holstentor Gate, see below…) though its roof is more recent. We entered the old town through this gate after crossing a branch of the Trave River.

Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Burgtor (city gate)

Trave River, Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Bridge over part of the Trave River by Burgtor

St. Mary’s Church (St. Marien Kirche)

One of the great examples of Gothic brick architecture in Europe, influencing the design of many other churches in the region, is Lübeck’s St. Mary’s Church, built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former church. It is one of the first church built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material.

For someone who has seen Gothic churches elsewhere in Europe, the style rings familiar yet something feels a bit off – it’s the red bricks! It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic. However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942. A broken bell from the bell tower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about… See a picture of it and read more about St. Mary’s in this earlier write-up in this blog here.

The Holy Spirit Hospital

This building towards the north end of old town houses one of the oldest social services institution in Europe: the Holy Spirit hospital (Heiligen Geist Hospital). The institution was founded in the 13th century to take care of the sick and elderly. In the early 16th century, it stopped being affiliated by the church and passed to the civilian authorities. The front of the building has an open space, a choir, and hosts frescoes and triptychs. It stopped having residents in the 1960s and now hosts art and craft fairs on occasion.

St. Jacob’s Church

Right near the Holy Spirit Hospital is the Church of St Jacob‘s, the church of seafarers. It may not be the most impressive of the churches in Lübeck, but I still liked seeing the details inside. The church was built in the mid 14th century. It did not suffer damage from World War II so it retains the original boxed pew and organ. I also enjoyed the area around it as I waited for my friends to come out (I was babysitting their dog, Luna – a cute one!).

St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche)

This church was built in the 13th century and continued to be modified in the 15th and 16th centuries. It lost its roof in World War II and the final renovations from that damage and temporary repairs was completed in 1987. Its best feature, in my book, is the views from its tower.

Holstentor Gate

Lübeck’s most iconic structure represents the city to the world. It is a beautiful building, even as it leans. Holstentor, the western gate into the old town, is just a couple of blocks from St. Peter’s Church.

Holstentor almost got demolished in the 1860s because of a movement to get rid of old fortifications around the town. Unbelievable that locals thought this gate dating from 1464 was not worth keeping!! It has required maintenance over time to stabilize it with the last major restorations being done in the 1930s and the 2000s. Holstentor survived World War II which is a miracle – and, therefore, it is a must-see structure for any visitor to Germany.

And the streets of the old town with the majestic facades!

If you liked any of the above, walking around the old town is even better! The design of the building’s facades felt so new to me, it captivated me… Here are some images of what I so enjoyed. Definitely top of the list of what to see in Lübeck ! ——————————————————————————————————

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: gothic architecture, hanseatic league capital, holtenstor city gate, Lubeck, must see Germany, off the beaten path Germany, places to see in Germany, travel in Germany

The Jewel of Lübeck: Church of St. Mary’s

17 September 2018 by Raul 5 Comments

Visiting the former Hanseatic League‘s capital, Lübeck in north Germany, is a feast for the eyes for the amazing architecture the city has. The city’s important rose in prominence before the Hanseatic League came into being. A town had been founded there in the early 12th century after suffering serious damage in an invasion. One of the buildings constructed in that era was the jewel of Lübeck: the Church of St. Mary (Marienkirche).

By Thomas Möller Roggenhorst – originally uploaded to de.wikipedia by author on 24. Sep 2004, self made by author, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=110347

Gothic brick architecture

The Church of St. Mary is one of the prime examples of Gothic brick architecture in northern Europe. St. Mary’s was built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former wooden church built about a hundred years earlier. It influenced many other churches in the region, some number 70 other churches that took their inspiration in Germany and Poland from St. Mary’s.

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Side entrance to the church is adjacent to a really cool building in the background

The architecture of St. Mary’s is very unique because it is one of the first churches built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material. It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic! It also possesses one of the highest vaults from the Gothic period.

Altar

WWII damages the Church of St. Mary…

However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942. A broken bell from the belltower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about…

Broken bell, victim of WWIW

St. Mary’s is an active church of the Evangelical Lutheran branch. I happened to walk in a couple of minutes before the brief noon service. The attendants at the door (it is free entrance) asked my if I wanted to come later or if I was planning to sit through the service. I had no idea how long it would be but I said yes to the latter. It was a brief psalm reading and a short sermon. A local woman was trying to chide me when I decided to move pews because, as she saw my camera hanging from me, she thought I was touristing during the service. I was about to have a bad thought but remembered where I was, smiled, and moved on to the pew I wanted to sit at…

Make your way to Lübeck if you are visiting nearby Hamburg (an hour away or so). It is a phenomenal town and then check out the Church of St. Mary.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: brick gothic, german gothic architecture, germany, Hanseatic League, Lubeck, Marienkirche, must see Germany, st mary church

Images of Hamburg: A City in Photos

10 September 2018 by Raul 1 Comment

Having written some posts on what to see in Hamburg, I wanted to share some images of Hamburg that did not make it to those posts. Some are of Hamburg’s architecture or its setting, and some are a little more random. Hope you enjoy these images and that they make you want to explore this former Hanseatic League city!

The High Views in Hamburg

As you may have read in posts about Chicago, Sydney or my top 8 climbs in Europe, I like going high (not the same as “getting high”!) to soak in the vastness of a place and get my bearings. Well, Hamburg is no exception. I wrote about St. Nicholas Church where I got to see the city from up high. But there are more photos to share that I included in that post…

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

Looking towards the entrance to the old Elbe tunnel

Looking down to Speicherstadt and Hafencity

The Architecture in Hamburg

Like many city, really, Hamburg has great architecture. It is an amalgamation of styles from pre-World War II that survived to modern and post-modern and just frigging funky. You can see some more of these styles in my skyline photos in the Elbe Tunnel post, or in my unofficial guide to Hamburg covering places like Speicherstadt, Blankenese‘s stair district, the Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie), and the Chilehaus. But here are some other photos of the architecture in Hamburg that I really liked.

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Neat tile work and handrail

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany, statues in Hamburg

Lots of these statues atop doorways or along outer walls

Staircase at the Chilehaus

Along Speicherstad

Another cool building

Not sure what style this is but it looks very cool

The Eclectic in Hamburg

Hamburg, like any big city, will have its quirky quarters and scenes. Here are some images of Hamburg to help you visualize the eclectic side of Hamburg!

motorcycle, motorrad DDR, hamburg street scene, travel

Old school DDR

hamburg architecture, architektur, arquitectura, germany, travel

The building must be melting with the heat wave…

curb art, Hamburg street scene, bottle cap art, travel

Bottle caps as part of the curb

The Canals of Hamburg

Hamburg is a little like the Venice of northern Europe. The city center area is ground zero for the canals. I read somewhere that it boasts more bridges inside its city limits than any other city. Also, it is supposed to have more canals than Amsterdam or Venice – I find that hard to believe but not because I have any data or have studied the topic 🙂 So I will share a couple of images about the canals.

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, architecture, architektur, germany, Hamburg, Hamburgo, images of Hamburg

12 Things to Do in Hamburg for Free

3 September 2018 by Raul 15 Comments

Hamburg may not be known as the tourism mecca that Paris, London, Rome or others are. But it is a fascinating city to explore for its history, architecture, and culture. It was amazing when I looked back and realized how many things one can do for free in Hamburg to explore and joy this German city. So I decided to share twelve things to do in Hamburg for free There are more, for sure. Just consider this an unofficial guide to Hamburg and feel free to add via the comments below other suggestions you have (even if they are not free!).

The recommendations start at the Elbphilarmonie (Concert Hall), then move to the heart of the city and then move sort of out and westward so you can plan a route to explore following this sequence. I indicate U- or S-Ban stations near each spot when appropriate to help you plan the things to do in Hamburg.

1. Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie)

The Elbphilarmonie is the magnificent and very modern concert hall built on top of a warehouse/residential structure dating from the 1960s in the Speicherstadt district of old Hamburg. It cost nearly a billion dollars to construct and many years delay, finally opening in January 2017. One wonders what that money could have done, say, to improve lives of refugees, improve social services or the like, but the building is impressive, like it or not.

The concert hall does not sit on top of the older building: it has its own foundations. Pretty darn good engineering trick! There are two cool ways to explore the concert hall: touring it or going to the viewing level.

Elbphilarmonie, Concert Hall Hamburg, Germany, modern architecture, Hamburgo, Alemania, arquitectura, architektur

The concert hall is just something to behold!

The tour lasts about an hour and costs 15 euros as of this writing. It requires a lot of physical activity. Going to the “Plaza” or viewing level is actually free and offers great views of the city. However, there is limited capacity at that level so, if you want to guarantee your access, you can get a ticket in advance by paying a nominal fee (2 euros). [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

2. Speicherstadt

Close to the Chilehaus is the Speicherstadt district. This district was the warehouse district for decades. It was built in the late 1800s and seems to have survived WW II bombings so enough buildings either were OK or could be repaired (others were lost). The warehouses served a unique purpose in this important German port back when it was a customs-free zone. The rows of warehouses run long along canals and have access both from the water and the streets. It is curious to note that they are built on a foundation that uses timber poles to anchor them.

It is also neat to see how the whole district has been re-vitalized, I presume with new construction where the old buildings were destroyed in the war. As usual, modern German architecture is really fun to explore – they are much more creative than architects back home! [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

3. St. Nicholas Church

I wrote about this church, in the heart of Hamburg, in an earlier post. It is a simple yet powerful reminder of the craziness of dictatorship and war. It is almost park-like but the message is clear. Of the list of things to do in Hamburg, this is for sure the most thought-provoking. In addition, St. Nicholas Church’s bell tower offers a phenomenal vantage point of the city (you do have to pay for that view…). [U-Bahn stations: Rathaus or Rödingsmarkt]

Hamburg, St. Nicholas Church, Germany, WWII ruins, Hamburgo, travel, Alemania

Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

4. Chilehaus

If you love interesting architecture, stuff you don’t normally see, the Chilehaus (Chile House) building, with its massive scale, is the right sight for you. The building, in the Kontorhaus district of Hamburg, feels heavy with all those dark bricks but lightened by the small brick “features” that adorn in. I read somewhere that its design lends it lightness but I did not feel that lightness as an amateur.

In any case, the building dates from the 1920s and, like many things around this town, finds a way to evoke the maritime “centeredness” of the city, in this case, the shape of a ship. I had to look up why is it called the “Chile House” and learned that the shipping magnate who funded its construction made a lot of his money from trading in saltpeter from Chile.

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Large wavy outer wall of the Chilehaus

Chilehaus, Chile House, Casa de Chile, Hamburg, Alemania, Hamburgo, Germany, architecture, brick in architecture

Details of the exterior wall of the Chilehaus

When you are done checking the building out (and peek inside to the see old style staircases), walk some more around the area to see other old buildings. This link takes you to a live webcam offering almost 360 degree view around the Chilehaus. And I may add that it is across the street from the Chocolate Museum… [U-Bahn station: Meßberg]

5. Rathaus (City Hall)

The German word “Rathaus” is the word for “city hall.” I just love that word for a building where any politician sits. But I digress. Hamburg’s city hall is a beautiful structure close to water and the canal area of Hamburg and it houses both the First Mayor and the Parliament of the state of Hamburg. It is beautiful day or night.

Hamburg’s Rathaus was built in the late 19th century to replace the prior one that burned over 40 years before. It seems the building survived WW II well…

There are guided tours on offer during weekdays. I did not take the tour but I imagine it is a beautiful building inside… [U-Bahn station: Rathaus]

Germany, Alemania, turismo, Hamburg, Hamburgo, Alsterfontane, Binnenalster, Hamburg fountain

Rathaus as seen from St. Nicholas Church’s belltower

6. Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

This area by the water, right near the Rathaus and the Neustadt fancy shopping district, offers a unique opportunity to feel you are somewhere like Nice enjoying a stroll, a lunch, or a beverage right by the water. In Hamburg, the water normally means the Elbe River but this lagoon-like body of water (the Binnenalster), which connects by canals to the river, has a totally different feel. You can watch the Alsterfontane, which reminded me of a similar fountain in Lake Geneva, while sitting at one of the cafés or restaurants in the area before you go to the nearby Kunsthalle Museum or the fancy stores in the Neustadt district! [U-Bahn station: Jungfernstieg]

Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

Enjoying a drink and a bite by the water

7. Planten un Blomen

Wandering a little aimlessly away from Binnenalster, we ran into the park named Planten un Blomen which does not sound German but Dutch, perhaps. It is located near the Alster and the Congress Center, forming a green belt surrounding part of the core of the city. We actually happened upon it by accident. It was nice to stroll the trails along the water features of the park and see a good number of locals enjoying the place. If you need a break from walking around and want to just find a park that feels remote from “urbanity,” this would be a great spot! [U-Bahn station: Stephansplatz]

8. Old Elbe Tunnel

Now, the route goes back to the riverside… The entrance to this old tunnel under the Elbe River is just west of the city center and down the hill from the infamous St. Pauli district (another free thing to do is walk around there…).

This neat engineering marvel (at least back when it was built) is not only worth going through but, on the other side, one is rewarded with a good view of the modest Hamburg skyline. It is free and it is quite easy to do. For more about this experience, check out this post in this blog! [S-Bahn station: Landungsbrücken]

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel, things to do in hamburg

Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

9. Fischmarkt

Continue moving westward along the Elbe River (away from the city center; a long walk with not a lot to look at), you will eventually get to Hamburg’s famous fish market (more or less below the Altona district). The recommended thing to do is be there at the crack of dawn on a Sunday (it opens at 5 AM and closes by 9:30 AM) and see everything for sale (not just fish!).

Unfortunately, I was not in Hamburg on a Sunday so I can’t serve as a witness to the event. However, I did make it over there. I really liked the main building. Its roof had an Eiffel-like feel to it and the structure inside (I could not go it but peeked) and outside reminded be of the Central Market (Mercado Central) in Santiago, Chile. Next time I come to Hamburg, I WILL be there on a Sunday!

10. St. Pauli Street Art

The St. Pauli district is known for one thing: the St. Pauli Girl beer! Well, that may be the case in North America but it is known for being a rather raunchy place. I will let others talk about that part of the district’s “appeal” but I liked how eclectic it fell and no better example of that than the diverse and colorful street art (I will leave the raunchy ones out…). So among the things to do in Hamburg on this list, this may be the funnest! [U-Bahn stations: Feldstraße or St. Pauli]

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My favorite: the octopus wrapped around Hamburg!

11. Ottensen / Altona

Head up from the fish market to explore these two sections of town, Ottensen and Altona, just west of the heart of the city. They are very livable neighborhoods with neat modern and older buildings, pedestrian shopping areas, parks, shops, and some funky spots. Take the S-Bahn over and spent a couple of hours aimlessly walking these neighborhoods! [S-Bahn station: Hamburg-Altona station]

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Altona’s Rathaus

12. Blankenese Treppenviertel – the Stair District

Off-the-beaten path in Hamburg, and further west than Ottensen and Altona, is a district to its west named Blankenese. As I shared in this earlier post I wrote about this district, it was an area where ship owners lived back in the day. The district is beautiful with its many stairs to walk to explore the homes of these shipowners. Some of these stairs lead down to the edge of the river Elbe. It is the last in this list of the things to do in Hamburg, but not least!

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Nice path’s along the stair district – no paths for cars!

Hope this list of things to do in Hamburg helps you plan your visit there – or encourage to go there if you were not considering it!

Do you have other suggestions, be them free or at a cost?? Share via a comment!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany Tagged With: Alemania, Allemagne, Hamburg, Hamburg travel guide, Hamburgo, things to do Hamburg, tourism

The Best Views of Hamburg via the Old Elbe Tunnel

28 August 2018 by Raul 3 Comments

Hamburg is an impressive city in big ways and small ways. And in deep ways. Enter stage: the Old Elbe Tunnel (Alter Elbtunnel, as it is called in German) which, odd as it may sound, offers the best views of Hamburg ! Read on…

History of the Old Elbe Tunnel

Hamburg is located by the Elbe River, an important artery for transportation of imports/exports into and out of Germany. Back in the early 20th century, there was a need to connect both sides of the river to facilitate local travel. So, they (whoever that’d be) decided to build a tunnel 80ft (24m) beneath the surface and 1,400ft (426m) in length in what was an engineering marvel at the time: the Elbe Tunnel.

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Beautiful mosaics (tile work) at the entrance to the tunnel on the city side

Marker at the middle of the tunnel crossing

The Old Elbe Tunnel opened in September 1911 when, as it was new, was not called the “old” Elb Tunnel but rather the St. Pauli Elbe Tunnel (named so as it abuts the “famous” St. Pauli neighborhood of Hamburg).

How does this tunnel work?

While there are many bridges and tunnels connecting both sides today, the Old Elbe Tunnel remains active for local travel and tourists alike. Four large elevators on either side of the tunnel bring up/down vehicles (cars, bikes) and people (locals, tourists) to go through the tunnel. Oh, and it is actually two parallel tunnels…

Two elevators side by side

Another view of the car/bike/pedestrian elevator

It is a neat little experience for visitors for many reasons – an a free one (for pedestrians and bikes; 2 euros for cars)! You can enter the tunnel and either walk down a long staircase or go down the elevator.

Either down the steps (L) or the elevator (R)

I actually recommend going down the stairs (going up would be harder) so you can admire the interior of the structure and see the elevators from a distance. Then go up in the elevator so you can experience that.

Once in the bottom, you will see one lane for vehicles and two one-directional sidewalks. Cars will only come in one direction since it is just one lane. And then pedestrians walk on the appropriate sidewalk depending on which direction you are walking. The tunnel is about 20ft wide (6m). As you walk, you can see some of the terracotta decorative tiles with maritime themes along the walls.

Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

Some of the glazed tiles gracing the walls of the Elbe Tunnel

Some of the best views of Hamburg

The Old Elbe Tunnel comes out across the Elbe River at Steinwerder. I was not aware exactly of whether there was a view point organized for the curious (like me) or whether I just had to walk around to find a good spot. I made a right out of the building and followed its outer wall towards the back, assuming I was headed in the right direction. Sure enough, there was a nice viewing platform after a short walk giving one a full view of the amazing city that is Hamburg. I am glad I went after having explore the city some already as I was able to identify landmarks on the opposite side. If you go, I would suggest doing the same (explore Hamburg first and then cross the river to check out the skyline).

From west to east, here is the skyline of Hamburg from Steinwerder. Enjoy!

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Looking towards Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market)

Looking towards the St. Pauli district & the Elbe tunnel entrance

Looking towards the massive statue to Bismarck and St. Michael’s Church

St. Nicholas Church (now a memorial I wrote about in another post) in the middle

The Concert Hall on the right

While the view from this side of the Elbe River is from down low and there are other places to get great views from up high (like St. Nicholas Church of which I wrote about), to me, these were the best views of Hamburg !

At the end of my checking out the skyline and taking photos, I made my way back to the Old Elbe Tunnel entrance on this side and proceeded to walk back through the tunnel (which, by the way, is much cooler temperature-wise than the surface so beware) to get back to Hamburg. Oh, and I took the elevator up on the other side 🙂

More off-the-beaten path Hamburg:

Pin this image to your travel board if you are planning to visit Germany – or, if you like engineering marvels!

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: best views of Hamburg, crossing the Elbe River, Elbe Tunnel, Elbtunnel, engineering marvel, Hamburg, tunnel in Hamburg, view of Hamburg

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