Back to Chile – What I Hope to Enjoy Again

It has been a while since I write on the blog.  It has been a busy time as I have been on job search.  But, that period is coming to an end and, lo and behold, my next job will start with a business trip to Chile.

Lo and behold for many reasons.  One, though the job is in the States, my first day will take place visiting the Chilean operations of the company.  Two, I could only have dreamed that my next job had an international angle to it but it turns out it produces that angle from the get-go.  And three, I worked in Chile back in 1991 greatly enjoying the place, the lifestyle, and the people and, yet, I never got to go back (I did try).  It has been a long 18 years and I finally get to fulfill the desire to go back.  Will El Tallarin Gordo still serve as good a meal as it did back then (I do know it exists still thanks to the Internet)?  Does Pollo al Coñac still exist in Lo Barnechea?  Will I get to visit Los Dominicos again to make some purchases of Chilean arts and crafts?  Does the Pizza Hut near the offices where I worked still exist?  Does Coppola still serve wonderful ice cream?  (notice most of these are about food!)

I do not have to wonder about re-connecting with my friends as we managed to re-connect after that odd period between 1991 and the late 90s bridging over the period when people did not have emails or laptops to the new highly connected world of today with email, Facebook, Skype, etc.  I will get to see my friends and, by now, their kids.  I also hope to do at least a quick drive-about the old hangouts for memories’ sake.  Always healthy for me. 

I do expect Santiago to be totally transformed.  I was there in the aftermath of Pinochet as Chile was beginning to come of age after the close of 2 decades of Pinochet.  Chile was under a construction boom at the  time and I hear that boom kept on going years after I left.  What was new then (e.g., the Hyatt) will be rather old by now.

I long to eat palta York.  Drink a Chilean pisco sour.  Eat one of those Chilean sandwiches whose main ingredient is mayonnaise, then the bread, and then a filet of pork.  Oh, and Chilean wine, of course.  I long to see the amazing Andes, which greeted me every morning when I woke up as my bedroom faced these magnificent mountains and I left my curtains open at night so I could have them be the first thing I saw every morning…

With these random thoughts I wrap up this entry.  I will certainly write more once I am there and share my observations and reflections of a city likely transformed since I last saw it.  Yet, I hope I will feel as if I were going back home after a long exile…

If anyone has recommendations of good places to eat these days from hole-in-the-walls to nicer places, please share.  Though I won’t be able to spend time sightseeing per se, drop your suggestions on that too as it may help others!  Vamos po’!

Traveling in Southern Chile – Pucón

Back when I lived in Chile in 1991, we made a holiday weekend trip to Pucón.  We wanted to explore the south a little further and one of our colleagues’ sister had a house in Pucón so my colleague knew the area well.  So 9 of us rented a van and met my colleague and his girlfriend down in Pucón…  It was going to be a great weekend.!

Getting to Pucón

We drove the Panamerican Highway for what seems like 10 hours to get to Pucón.  I would imagine the Panamerican Highway has been expanded some since 1991 but it seemed a less-than-ideal highway since it is the sole main roadway traversing the length of the country.  Therefore, it is the way for things and people to be transported across the country.  It was very crowded and I pitied the guy who was driving (not sure how he ended up with the assignment out of the 9 of us).  For those of us not driving, we were split into 2 camps:  those who smoked and those who did not.  This being 1991 in Chile and 7 out of the 9 being Argentinians, smoking seemed a very acceptable thing to do in a van all night long.  The 2 of us Americans cracked open a window to get fresher air to complaints of it being too cold – tough…  The stop for dinner in Temuco was wonderful for the break and the food (to this day I remember I had corvina a la vizcaina – a rare fish eater back then, this dish totally won me over to eating fish!.

Then to Enjoy Pucón…

We had, based on our friend’s recommendation, booked rooms at a local lakeside hotel on the shores of Lake Villarica (Hotel del Parque, I think) and close the volcano of the same name.  What a FANTASTIC setting.  We did go up the volcano which had ski slopes (closed at the time).  Not quite Steamboat Springs or Portillo but I am sure fun nevertheless.

300px-pucon-y-su-volcanIn Pucón, besides fantastic local dishes we enjoyed the landscape, very green and with mountains nearby.  Though it was cold enough to be weating a sweater (this was early November so the end of the spring), we decided it would be a fun idea to go whitewater rafting down the Trancura River (around a level 3.5/4).  Only 1 person had whitewater rafted before and not there.  WOW!  That water was freaking cold!!  Straight down from the peaks of the Andes!  It gave us an incredible incentive to remain focused on not turning over or falling into the water.  Our Argentinian friends were very singing-oriented and made up songs as we went down the river – fun crowd to hang with!

Though it was maybe too long a distance for a 3-day weekend, we thoroughly enjoyed yourselves with fun company and a fantastic setting in the Chilean countryside.  I can´t wait to return there some day.

It has been many years since this visit.  Perhaps someone can share other information about Pucón and the neighboring towns?

My Short Life in Santiago, Chile

Getting to live in a country other than your own is always a great learning experience and a great way to expand how we understand how different and how similar human being can be.  This entry is more of a trip down memory lane than a travel journal:  talking about my 3 short months living in Santiago, Chile while on assignment for work there.  It was a prolonged visit that made me feel I was a true resident of the city.

Santiago in 1991 was not as developed as it is now; or as I heard it was developed even 10 years ago for that matter.  But it was a city that was bustling with business and construction back then as it re-entered into full-fledged democracy.

I lived in a nice area of town called Providencia where we had been found accommodations for our stay in an “apart-hotel” near Las Condes.  It was a good part of town for us as it had many conveniences nearby and we could walk to work (a 15 minute walk).

Traveling before Cell Phones Were Common…

In 1991, some things about living abroad were not as easy as they are today.  For instance, we had no cell phones (we had one in the office but it was one of those you installed in a car except we had it on top of a table in our conference room; our client was one of the two mobile phone companies in town).  ATMs were not in use back then there (at least those connected to the international networks) so we had to trek to el Centro to go to the local Amex office to have them withdraw money from our bank accounts back in the U.S. and then exchange it for us into local currency.  I remember the lunch hour treks downtown and all that time spent.  One forgets how convenient ATMs are since we are used to them!  Keeping up with family and friends back home meant regular mail (now we call it “snail mail” but back then there was nothing to compare it to) or $2+ per minute phone calls.

OK, Now to Food…

In Santiago, I had fantastic meals.  It has been too long and 1. memory fails and 2. places may no longer exist or be as good.  I clearly recall enjoying a restaurant called El Tallarin Gordo [good eats] in Bellavista (a bohemian type of neighborhood)  (Spanish link: http://restoranteltallaringordo.blogspot.com/2007/05/el-tallarin-gordo.html).  Another one, called Pollo al Cognac [good eats], served a dish of the same name that was fantastic (it was located in Lo Barnechea).  Finally, a more elegant one we enjoyed (on account only!) was Chez Louis.  We also used to go for drinks and lesser meals near the Calle Suecia.  I don’t recall if all the places we went for dancing and hanging out were there but Calle Suecia was at least a frequent place for happy hours.  Back then, salsa was becoming in vogue and I remember being in demand for being Caribbean and able to fake my way through a salsa song… (I really don’t dance it well at all!)

Things We Did…  Besides Work, That Is

As far as sightseeing and the like, the downtown area had very interesting architecture.  The Cerro Santa Lucia also merited a visit.  View from the CerroWe did trek beyond to the Maipo Canyon for a picnic and good food.  Further afield, Viña del Mar was close enough to Santiago for day visits during the weekend, choosing a seaside restaurant to sit in for a few hours while enjoying the food, the people, the view, and perhaps a good book (and a glass of beer or two or three).  Also, wine country is not far from Santiago and is certainly an enjoyable activity (at least for me!).  Unfortunately, back then I was too young and not too savvy about my wine tastes.  There were also a nice beach we liked south of Valparaíso, called Algarrobos, except that the water was FRIGID.  Finally, skiing is only 2 hours away from the city.  I arrived in Chile just as the ski slopes closed but still got to visit Portillo which had an excellent setting up in the Andes.

Being that we were residents for 3 months (I was there with another colleague from the US and a few Argentinians colleagues), we also took to more routine activities like playing racquetball at the local, public “clubs” where you paid a nominal fee for a booked court; or mountain biking in nearby parks.

I would not call Santiago a place one goes for tourism as a destination like Paris, London, etc. (though it can be part of a bigger trip and is, certainly, a great starting point for exploring the wonderful country that is Chile) but it is one of those places where I would enjoying living in again.

Anyone out there have ideas on what is more current in Santiago than my comments dating from 1991?

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