Travel Journal - ilivetotravel's travel log

Some of My Favorite Spots in Berlin

20 February 2020 by Raul 1 Comment

Many times I write about my exploring right after I return home, when the memories are fresh and I first go through all the photos I took during my trip. Today, I thought I’d re-visit my days in Berlin less than a couple of years ago.

Reichstag Building, Dach, Berlin, Bundestag, rooftop view of Berlin, Alemania, Germany — From the rooftop terrace of the Reichstag Building

The capital of reunited Germany is laden with history and symbolism. I think it always has been. It is a peculiar place simply because of all the volumes of history written in its streets, buildings and fields.

All that provides someone visiting the city with many items to add to a list of must-sees. Here, I will share the places I enjoyed the most in Berlin. Maybe they will end up in your list of what to see in Berlin! I will start with the museums and move on to other places…

The many museums in Berlin’s Museum Island

Museum Island is a treasure trove of important museums. The Pergamon Museum, the Neues Museum, the Altes Museum, the National Gallery, and the Bode Museum are some of the museum options that will -I am sure- wear out even the most museum-addicted visitor.

berlin, museum island, bode museum, derliner dom, pergamon museum — Berliner Dom on the right, Bode Museum on the left, and the rest in the middle!

With museums, having a plan is key as covering all the works on display is about impossible with large museums or in an area with so many of them. I did not have enough days in Berlin to explore all of these (save the Pergamon Museum) so I can’t attest to their “visit worthiness”. However, the Neues Museum has the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti, an item I wished I had seen in person since I have visited the tomb where it was found in Egypt …

Of course, there are many other museums in town beyond Museum Island so, keep exploring! (Keep reading for a later entry in this post about a Berlin Wall museum…)

A museum of greatness: Pergamon

The Pergamon Museum stands out due to the grandeur of the building and some of the contents (like the Ishtar Gate and other grand remnants of historic places from antiquity. The museum was established before World War I and, thankfully, its art and objects were safeguarded so they survived the destruction brought to the city by World War II. The Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate, the Miletus Market and the large collection of Assyrian statues/busts were some of my favorite things to see firsthand. It is a big museum and could consume a long time so plan properly. For my tips for a well-done visit, check my earlier post about the Pergamon Museum.

Post-World War II history museum

The Allied Museum in the “suburb” of Dahlem (in what used to be West Berlin) caught my eye and I made an easy trip on the U-Bahn to get to see it but, rookie mistake, I did not check opening schedule and it was closed that day. From the outside, I did get to see some of the large items placed outdoors from across the fence and it really made me regret not checking the schedule first!

Allied Museum in Berlin, checkpoint charlie, berlin, old airplane

I did walk around the residential streets of Dahlem and it was cool to see a very different type of neighborhood than most European cities have. I almost felt I was back in the U.S. (though there was still differences). I am not sure if the history of the area is that these homes were built during the American occupation of the area post-World War II, or if they pre-date those times. I knew of the area as a good friend was born there while his father was stationed in Germany in the early 1970s so that gave me context for the area and explains why the Allied Museum as well as a U.S. consulate office are located there vs. closer in to the heart of Berlin.

Dahlem, occupied zone, Berlin, Germany — A house in Dahlem

The DDR Museum – throwback to the Cold War

On the slight whimsical side, yet filled with interesting info and artifacts, is the DDR Museum right next to Museum Island. It takes one back to how life in Communist East Germany was and has great imagery (physical and digital) to do that. If you were born after the fall of the Iron Curtain (1989), this may be a curiosity but to those who remember the Cold War, it may be a more vivid reminder of those times that now seem like ancient history, almost surreal!

Great rooftop views of Berlin – and great food!

The Bundestag, Germany’s federal parliament, is housed since 1999 in what has to be one of my favorite buildings in the city: the Reichstag Building. It was built in the latter part of the 19th century and fell into disuse after a fire in the 1930s and the effects of World War II. It never functioned again as a diet or parliament until well after German reunification in the 1990s.

Its modernistic dome is fun to climb via the long ramps and it will offer great photo opportunities of the outdoor and the indoor (if you look straight down inside, you are looking at the chamber where the politicians meet).

what to see in Berlin, Reichstag Building, Bundestag, dome in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The unique dome and its ramps

The rooftop terrace provides great views of the city.

SPree River, Berlin, Germany — The Spree River

German Chancellery, Bundeskanzleramt, Berlin, German government, Germany — The German Chancellery

But, being a bit of a foodie, my favorite part of the Reichstag Building was its rooftop restaurant (Dachgarten Restaurant) named Käfer. Its breakfast offerings are delicious. I hear that it is also a great place to go before sunset to enjoy the views with the sunset colors of the sky.

Tips to visit the Bundestag’s rooftop restaurant, Käfer

You need to make reservations to be able to go (on the link provided above, scroll down to get the reservation form). The exact info on every visitor will need to be provided when making the reservation for security measures. Upon arrival, allow extra time ahead of the reservation time to go through security where you will need to provide valid photo ID (I suggest your passport).

Bundestag, Reichstag Building, entrance for visitors to the Bundestag, Berlin, Alemania, Germany — Secured entrance for visitors facing the Tiergarten

Walking Berlin’s unique neighborhoods

I was lucky that one of my Godchildren lives in Berlin and besides spending time together, he showed me very unique neighborhoods that perhaps as a tourist, I may have never gotten to explore. If you have the time and don’t mind meandering, I highly recommend walking around these neighborhoods, mostly in the former East Berlin. Some areas to consider exploring: Alexanderplatz, Prenzlauerberg, and Kreuzberg.

I was told and I could tell that the areas of the former East Berlin have a slightly different feel than those of the former West. The difference may be blurring some but it is detectable and feeds the curiosity of those of us who never saw the city before reunification as to how things must have been…

Eatery in the former East Berlin, Berlin bar

Badfish Bar, Prenzlauerberg, East Berlin, Berlin best bar — I loved Badfish Bar!!

Berlin’s Cathedral

Compared to many other German European cathedrals, Berlin Cathedral’s (Berliner Dom) interior did not really do anything for me (though it still had some splendor).

However, its exterior is impressive and going up to the dome for the views may be cool to do if you are into that (I am!). There are other churches around town so if you like to check them out, I’d say go for it. My limited time in town, unfortunately, prevented more exploring. But Berlin has so many unique things other cities don’t have that I don’t regret my prioritization!

Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church

OK, I know I said I did not get to explore churches. But this one is different. Not much of the church remains and that is the point. It was not an old church to begin with. But, after it suffered destruction during the war, it was decided not to re-build it so it could serve as a reminder of the hard times Berlin has known and the horrors of war. It is well worth the visit though and, along the way, explore this more modern and commercial area of Berlin.

Kaiser Wilhelm Church, ruins in Berlin, memorials in Berlin, Berliner kirche, what to see in Berlin

Eating at KdW!

Oh, and while around there, do NOT miss “KdW“! Kaufhaus des Westens is a large department store à la Galeries Lafayette in Paris.

Not much of a shopper here but exploring its marzipan and chocolate section was a walk through paradise. And then do not miss eating one of the Berliner Currywurst in one of the food counters in one of the top floors!!!

KdW, Berlin department store, Berliner currywurst, famous Berlin hot dog, German dishes — Currywurst with fries and a beer at KdW!

The Brandenburg Gate

Of course, you were waiting for me to talk about this (and the next item), weren’t you? Well, yes, of course I have to list it in this post. The iconic Brandenburg Gate is a must for a photo (selfie or not!). It is located near important embassies and across one end of the Tiergarten Park. The gate dates from the late 18th century and is in a location where there used to be another gate in the past. It is monumental and impressive! The Berlin Wall used to go right in front of it (remember Reagan’s speech telling Gorbie to “tear down that wall”?) as the gate was in East Berlin.

Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten, tear down that wall, monuments in Berlin, what to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania

Remnants of the Berlin Wall

For many of us, likely, nothing evokes Berlin as the Berlin Wall that lived almost 30 years in the midst of this great city, dividing its people and its essence.

The history of the boundary between East and West Berlin is fascinating once you read up on it. Having lived in the era of the wall, I thought generally there had always been a hard barrier between the two halves of the city once the post-WWII period began.

Well, actually, that was not the case in the immediate years of the post-WWII period. People could cross through between the two parts of Berlin. It was not until the living standard of West Berliners started surpassing that of the East Berliners that the Communist regime had to erect a barrier to prevent people voting with their feet (since they had no free elections for their leaders…). Also, wanting to isolate and demoralize the Westerners also played part, I assume.

In any case, there are some remnants of the wall still standing (thankfully) such as the pieces in the large Postdamer Platz, right next to where I stayed during my visit. It is well-signed including photos of how the area looked while the city was divided, and a good spot for photos.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin Ritz Carlton, Berlin Wall today, Berlin Mauer, muro de Berlin hoy — The Berlin Wall remnants at Potsdamer Platz

Even more fascinating for me are the places where the wall used to be is marked on the pavement or sidewalks of the city. This trail makes the past reality a little more vivid as you can feel the seeming randomness of the wall’s route. It also is puzzling as you see of all sudden the trail go into a new-ish building’s wall and wonder how the space was before the building was built. I loved running into this trail as I meandered around town!

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin — The 2-brick wide trail in the middle of the street marks where the wall was

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin, Brandenburg Gate — Find the trail looking towards the Brandenburg Gate from the Reichstag

Topography of Terror and the Wall

A very large portion of the wall is still in place by the Topography of Terror Museum. You can walk along it and read about the times… The museum itself has a LOT of information of the terrible events brought about by the Nazis in the many “boards” with plenty of photos. I think it was well-done but the topic is definitely overwhelming…

Berlin Wall remnants, Berliner Mauer, muro de Berlin, Alemania, Germany, Topography of Terror

Checkpoint Charlie is nearby. Go for it… #underwhelming

Memorial to the Murdered Jews

This large memorial between the Brandenburg Gate and Postdamer Platz deserves some time. I did not get to see the indoor exhibit due to the time of my visit but the outdoor place certainly made feel sad. Whoever had the inspiration for this very unique memorial’s design nailed it. It was really off-putting to see folks climbing on the pieces and posing for funny photos as if they were in a regular park. Of course, I don’t have an issue with photos but certainly expect some respect given the reason this memorial was needed… #neveragain

Memorial to Murdered Jews, Jewish memorial in Berlin, monumento a los judios, Berlin, Germany, post world war ii berlin

A non-site: Hitler’s bunker

Hitler’s underground bunker, as you may know, is where he and some of his minions lost their lives by their own hands or others’. The bunker was destroyed in the Communist period, I imagine, to prevent any crazies from ever making it a memorial, even if just in their mind.

Today, we do know where the bunker was (curiously, not far from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews) and there is a residential building and its yard built on the spot. A small, non-descript sign on the sidewalk gives some information. One cannot really memorialize such a place but, from a historical standpoint, I certainly wanted to see what the area looked like today. (The residential building is on Wilhelmstrasse.)

Hitler's bunker today, where Hitler died, World War II Berlin, places to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The site today

This post does not Berlin justice. There is so much more to see and do that I can cover.

But, I hope, it gives you some interesting new places to consider while including some well-known ones. Berlin is a never-ending exploration!

Filed Under: Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, Berlin, berlin wall, germany, kafer

Hiking Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

15 February 2020 by Raul 4 Comments

Just when I think I have explored a good bit of hiking trails near Atlanta, last weekend a pleasant surprise awaited me: Arabia Mountain National Heritage Area. Right outside of Atlanta, right by the town of Lithonia is a series of trails that span a good bit, anchored by Arabia Mountain.

If you have ever heard of Stone Mountain, imagine a smaller sibling of that large single granite rock outcrop in the flatter land around and that is Arabia Mountain.

The “ascent” to the top of Arabia Mountain

Standing at 955 ft, Arabia Mountain is a little more than half the altitude of Stone Mountain. Maybe not as impressive as Stone Mountain but I was pleasantly surprised as I hiked 2 miles+ to get to its base on a cold and gray winter Saturday afternoon. The slope is gentle and relatively easy. The path up is marked with small stone towers that fit in with the landscape.

At the top, there are pools of water perhaps mainly due to recent rains and lots of moss and delicate vegetation. While it was not the best day for views, I rather prefer days with cloud coverage and a slight chill in the air for my hikes. The only bad thing about choosing that day to go up was that the view was limited and we could not see too far beyond the near vicinity of the area.

Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta — At the summit

Hiking around the lake at Arabia Mountain

After descending, we decided to do a loop around the lake at the base of the mountain. It was a neat trail looking at the lake and the rock of the mountain behind it.

After completing the non-mountain side of the lake, we stepped onto the mountain walking along its lower edge along the opposite side of the lake. It was not the most comfortable walk as our feet were not horizontal and it was slippery from the rain but it was sort of fun.

Hiking in Atlanta, hiking Arabia Mountain

The lake area felt pristine and the path was mostly a nature trail so that was a real treat.

Our approach to get to Arabia Mountain

There is a parking lot right at the base of Arabia Mountain for those not as inclined to make a longer hike.

However, as I mentioned, this is all part of a larger network of trails that cross Dekalb and Rockdale counties from Lithonia all the way to the Monastery of the Holy Spirit.

While not our original plan, we were quite pleased at how things turned out. We ended up in one of the parking areas near the mountain but not the one at its base or the next closest one.

Instead, we parked near Vaughters farm, about 2 miles from the mountain. The trail began on a paved path (why do they insist on concreting trails…) along the fields of the Vaughters farm. It took me back to my days doing the Camino de Santiago. Rolling hills of green surrounded by forests until a mile later, when we hit the Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Center. Another mile took us to the Arabia Mountain trailhead which also house a wildlife center.

Vaughters Farm in near Arabia Mountain Park in Dekalb County, near Atlanta, Georgia

Trailhead to Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta, Georgia — Trailhead at Vaughters farm. Windy little path…

Of course, the walk back to Vaughters farm was 2 miles but enjoying the landscape around was very rewarding even if the rolling hills were getting to me on the last mile of my 7.5 mile hike (which took 2 hours and 40 minutes)…

hiking near Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

To get to Arabia Mountain just go on I-20 East from downtown Atlanta (maybe 40 mins with good traffic?), well past I-285 to exit 74. As a reference, Arabia Mountain is southwest of Stonecrest Mall, if you are familiar with the area.

Filed Under: Georgia, Georgia, Hiking, Travel Journal Tagged With: Atlanta, hiking

Cruising the Rhine – A Unique Music Cabinet Museum

9 January 2020 by Raul 2 Comments

Let’s talk about seeing a music cabinet – something I had never heard of before!

gramophone, musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

Rüdesheim am Rhein is one of those charming towns along the Rhine River in Germany that make you glad you spend the time traveling to new places. UNESCO agrees and, therefore, Rüdesheim and the region around it are designated as a World Heritage Site.

My December Christmas markets cruise made a stop there after passing through the scenic part of the Rhein earlier that day. Unfortunately, that only left us with the afternoon and early evening to enjoy Rüdesheim but I am not complaining (the scenic part of the Rhine is amazing to behold with the small towns and hilltop castles that grace the river banks).

Later that day we got to meet up with my college roommate and his wife with whom I went to Hamburg last year. They live an hour or so away so it was awesome that Rüdesheim was a stop for the cruise. We enjoyed glühwein with a shot of rum, laughed, and reminisced in a very festive environment at a small establishment in the town. I am not sure if it was the side patio of a restaurant or a pub or what; but we found a high table to camp at and hang out away from the cold wind!

Besides having walked the town center and see the Christmas markets, the other more cultural experience we had intown was to visit a music museum in Rüdesheim.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

It is not what I would have picked given a set of choices but I have learned in my travels (and life in general) to let myself just go with the flow. In this case, the flow being a short walk through town with a local guide arranged by the cruise. That walk was to end in the music museum where we would spend an hour or so led by a museum guide.

Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum

Maybe I am mistaken in calling it a music museum. The German name of the museum, Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum (Siegfried’s Mechanisches Musikkabinett), more appropriately calls it a musical cabinet museum.

The museum, family-owned for 3 generations for the last 50 years, is the home of different “machines” that play music. It could be a gramophone or one of those massive cabinets you may have seen at a circus or fair that play music but no instruments (or humans!) are visible. Usually, the instruments are hidden inside the cabinets. It seems fair to call them machines as no humans are intervening to play the instruments (other than cranking the machine or turning them on, I suppose).

Sample cabinet with several instruments

The instruments range from small hand-cranked card-readers to large armoires to massive cabinets for a festival or circus. The antique gramophones were the most “normal” of the machines on display.

This one played metal (not vinyl!) discs!!

My favorite was the cabinet that played violins (single-stringed, if I understood correctly).

The museum is spread over a few small structures in the property (that dates originally from the 15th century) owned by the family. An adjoining building was lost in WW II bombings (before the museum exited) but the main tower survived.

Today, the third-generation son and the second-generation dad take care of the machines. The third generation daughter helps take care of the business aspects.

Visiting the Music Cabinet Museum

I visited the museum as an excursion organized by the cruise ship so I had no idea of the entrance fee or other details. Note that opening times vary by time of year and that they may be closed altogether in January and February. Guided tours are offered in different languages and are worth it (and entertaining!). The cost, as of this writing, is 8 euros for adults and half for others.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: germany, mechanical musical instruments, music cabinets in germany, Rüdesheim, what to see in the rhine river

Aachen and its Imperial Cathedral

3 January 2020 by Raul 2 Comments

Aachen is a town of a quarter million located in a corner of western Germany that abuts Belgium and The Netherlands (in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, to be more precise). History lovers and architecture fans will probably know of this German town. Its importance over centuries past was huge.

Architecture of Aachen, Germany — Buildings near the Cathedral

Why is Aachen important?

The spot has been inhabited for sure since Roman times. But, probably, Aachen’s importance gained territory when Charlemagne became a fan. Charlemagne should sound familiar from world history class though you can be forgiven if you don’t remember the why… He unified parts of Europe a few centuries after Rome fell and became what was called the first Holy Roman Emperor (maybe so-called because he was crowned in the precursor to today’s St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome?). Many came after him though later it stopped being a hereditary role – it was elected by important members of nobility of certain houses of Central and Western Europe (if I remember correctly).

Model of Aachen's Cathedral — Aachen’s famous Cathedral started with the structure in the center (the Octagon)

Building Aachen’s Cathedral

Charlemagne had spent time in Aachen years before he became Holy Roman Emperor and had a chapel (and palace) built there. This chapel (which only was declared a Cathedral in 1930) became where these emperors were crowned for centuries (from the 10th to the 16th). The Aachen Cathedral is where Charlemagne was buried (and claimed to be to this day).

Plan of the Cathedral of Aachen in a plaque outside the Cathedral — Plaque showing the layout of the Cathedral

The golden box in the altar (known as Karlsschrein) is supposedly where his remains were placed after being removed from another location within the church,

Karlsschrein or coffin with Charlemagne's remains — The *Karlsschrein* where Charlemagne’s remains are (may be)

Altar of the Aachen Cathedral (Germany) — Zooming out, the *Karlsschrein* in the back behind the altar in the choir

Another angle showing more of the choir and stained glass windows

The Cathedral structure began to be built in the ninth century but was added to or expanded in later centuries. The Cathedral’s façade betrays its construction over several centuries (architectural preferences). Its cupola and steeple were also added later.

The lower tower has a different style than the upper

View of the Cathedral’s position: a very tight plaza in front of it

Its interior was also enhanced by adding the marbled walls and the mosaics, for example.

Marbled walls of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany — The marble is outstanding!

The columns and arches supporting the cupola remind me of the Mezquita de Cordoba (Spain; the Cordoba Mosque; see photo below). Another addition was the 4-meter diameter chandelier donated by Barbarossa who was emperor in the 12th century.

Ceiling / Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral and Barbarossa's chandelier — So much to admire in this pic! At bottom, Barbarossa’s chandelier

The mosaics in the ceiling and on the high part of the main level columns are pure beauty.

Ceiling of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany with its golden mosaics — Mosaics in the cupola

Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany

Christmas market in Aachen

My mother and I made a short stop in Aachen on our way from Brussels, Belgium to Cologne, Germany to embark on our Rhine River cruise. After visiting the Cathedral’s interior, we walked around its exterior where we ran into our first Christmas market experience – and our first cup of glühwein (of many throughout our cruise!).

Exterior of Aachen's Cathedral (Aachen Dom) in Germany — Beautiful exterior

Christmas market in Aachen, Germany — The Christmas markets

Glühwein is mulled wine: diluted wine (red or wine) mixed with spices and heated up to keep Christmas market visitors warm in the cold day or night of French or German towns in December! Sometimes they add a shot of rum or another hard liquor to strengthen it but I just enjoyed the diluted wine version as I was just looking for warmth in my hands and tummy!

Gluhwein in Aachen, Germany — My Mom enjoyed her 1st gluhwein, all bundled up (you are not in FLA anymore!)

The Cathedral remains one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe. It suffered great damage during World War II but the main structure remained. We are fortunate today to have this jewel still present to link us to history, faith and architecture over the centuries.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Aachen, Alemania, Barbarossa chandelier, Charlemagne, church mosaics in Germany

The Magnificent Cologne Cathedral

27 December 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

The city of Cologne has been an important center in northwest Germany since the first century. It is the fourth largest city in Germany, is strategically located in important routes for commerce and transport, and is a center of culture, education and business. Its location on the Rhine River certainly plays a significant part in all of the above. And so it served as the starting point for the river cruise I took with my mother in December to explore Christmas markets along the Rhine River!

The Cathedral of Cologne from the edge of the Rhine River in Germany. — I saw the Cathedral at this distance from a train back in 1998!

Some important claims

Cologne’s Cathedral is the Cathedral of St. Peter though I did not know that until AFTER my trip. It is the tallest two-spired church in the world, and third tallest church overall in the world (it is the second tallest in Europe). This height gives it the largest façade of any church in the world. Its exterior screams “look at me, I’m Gothic” even to the most untrained architecture-amateur.

As reference, the Cathedral’s website provides the following key dimensions of the structure (among other interesting stats):

Top height: 157.22m (516ft)
Widest point: 86.25m (283ft)
Max length: 144.58m (474m)

Given its importance (read further down) and its magnitude, the Cologne Cathedral is Germany’s most visited site (6 million per year), something that surprised me considering the Berlin Wall remnants, the Brandenburg Gate, Dachau, and the Ulm Cathedral (the tallest church in Europe and second in the world).

All of this certainly makes it impressive and worth visiting and earned it being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Long-awaited completion!

The Cathedral’s foundation stone got laid back in 1248. However, its completion delayed over the centuries; in fact, it sat unfinished and not being worked on for 300+ years! Work resumed in the mid-19th century and was finally completed in 1880.

Though it got started in the 13th century, there has been some form of a church on the site at least since the 6th century. Thankfully, it survived post-revolutionary French destructiveness in this part of Germany though it was closed for worship for a few years thanks to the French.

Relics R Us

Tradition holds that the relics (bones) of the Three Wise Men (or Magi) were brought to Cologne. The Cathedral was designed as magnificent as it is due to the important role it would have: the home of the relics. It also was to serve as an important place of worship for the Holy Roman Emperor which also explains the imposing structure and very detailed ornamentation on the exterior.

But back to the Three Wise Men… their relics had ended up in Milan (mental note to learn more about that part some time…). Around 1164, the relics were transferred to Cologne by an Archbishop who had been granted the relics by Barbarossa (the more-used name for Holy Roman Emperor Friedrich I) after he had taken Milan with the support of the Archbishop. This was a great move by the Archbishop as it helped make Cologne one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Europe (Rome and Santiago de Compostela being among others in that category).

Take a look at the Cologne Cathedral!

So with all that as backdrop, take a look at this 2-min video (give or take a few seconds!) to see some of the exterior and interior of the Cathedral. The images used were taken while I visited Cologne’s Christmas markets so you will also get to see how lively the plaza next to the Cathedral was!

(While the pictures themselves are hopefully good, the assemblage may show my level of inexperience at pulling a video together!)

Visiting the Cologne Cathedral

As many active religious buildings of any faith, visiting while services are conducted is either restricted or limited to just those participating in the services. If you do not practice, in this case, the Catholic faith, visiting during a service is OK as long as you are there sitting down like everyone else, not taking photos, and being silent: it is important to respect those services and the faithful who attend them who share their place of worship with you as a visitor. I do think it is beautiful to observe another faith’s services if one is allowed to be there so by all means I encourage you to do that as long as you mind the basic etiquette laid out above.

All that said, the Cathedral’s visiting hours are during daytime and the hours do vary by time of year (summer vs. winter, to be brief) so check their website for precise hours. Be aware that Sundays and religious holidays will have more limited visiting hours as services are being conducted.

The Cologne Cathedral does offer guided tours. A couple of times a day it is offered in English. Special guided tours are available to the rooftop and Treasure chamber (which you can also visit on your own). Oh, and the Cathedral has an app that you can use to explore the church on your own! It is available in Google Play and the Apple App Store.

Finally, if you are up for it, you can climb one of the towers for 6 euros (adults) as of this writing (reduced by half for children and other special categories).

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Cologne cathedral, germany, rhine river cruise

Post Card from the Grand Place in Brussels, Belgium

20 December 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

I had a short overnight layover in Brussels, Belgium in early December on my way to a Rhine River cruise to explore Christmas markets in the region. When looking at where to arrive in Europe get to the embarkation point (Cologne, Germany), I chose Brussels as my entry airport as it was relatively close to Cologne. But I also chose it because it is a town I had never visited (I had gone through its train station a few times when commuting between The Hague and Paris, but never visited).

With jet lag, a couple of other delays, and an early departure the next day, I really did not have time to explore much at all. However, I did get to see Brussels’ Grand Place which was the number one place I wanted to see in person.

So I got to do that (plus the royal palace on a drive-by on the way out of town) and a little bit of walking around near the Grand Place. Here are some images from that short visit that leaves me wanting to return to continue exploring this city, check out the Magritte Museum – and get to try the local food specialties!

Filed Under: Europe, Travel Journal Tagged With: Belgica, Belgium, Brussels city hall, Brussels main plaza, centro de Bruselas, Grand Place, hotel de ville Bruxelles

Experiencing Christmas Markets along the Rhine River

14 December 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

One of the most iconic images of the Christmas season is the Christmas-time, outdoor markets common in many parts of Europe. In this post, I will share both how I experienced Christmas markets in three countries and my tips for a most enjoyable visit!

I have always wanted to visit these markets out of curiosity and also as a way to enjoy the Advent season in full spirit ahead of Christmas (technically, it is not Christmas until December 25th!). The opportunity came to do this with a Rhine River cruise friends of mine were doing. Doing a river cruise has been on my Mom’s travel “wish list” so I could knock out an item from each of our lists!

During your visit, in case you see street signs, know that Christmas in German is “Weihnachten” and “Noël” in French!

Place #1 – Aachen, Germany

We only got to spend a brief 1.5 hours in Aachen, mainly spent at its cathedral. But we had time to venture into the Christmas market next to it. Though we got distracted by a bakery across the street from it, we still had time to venture into the Christmas market next to the cathedral. By the way, it may seem I am kind of cheating mentioning this one as it is not on the Rhine but it was on our way to reaching the river coming from Brussels!

Tip #1 – Prepare for any weather

Tip 1a: Bundle up!

Clearly I am stating the obvious but… being outdoors 2-4 hours is different than a 15-minute walk in cold weather. While there are hot beverages available, that will not suffice! Depending on the day and the town, it could be quite cold. Then add the potential for wind and/or rain and it becomes even more a challenge to enjoying the markets!

Tip 1b: Wear shoes that can handle rain or snow

At a couple of places we had rain or a drizzle. It could be miserable – if you are not prepared or if you let it affect your spirits! While I cannot help much with the latter, for the former I recommend waterproof and “slip-proof” shoes.

Tip 1c: Avoid the hassle of an umbrella

Also, I would recommend a rain jacket/coat/poncho with a hood than using an umbrella for a couple of reasons. One, it leaves your hands free to check out the goods in the markets, or to hold your cup or drink while still allowing a free hand. Two, some of the streets or aisles are narrow and at times crowded. An umbrella creates for navigation issues as you walk around!

Place #2 – Cologne, Germany

It will not be a surprise that Cologne (Köln) has several Christmas markets as it is one of the largest towns on the list here. They are spread out enough so that you get to explore the streets of the town and happen by important places like the historic and imposing cathedral (as with many of the places mentioned here, more on them in future posts!), other churches, museums, town hall, etc. These interesting places can become a distraction from the Christmas markets – and rightly so! My advice: plan for more time in Cologne if you can so you can see more than the Christmas markets!

Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral - Germany — Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral

Tip #2 – Don’t judge markets by the first one

As in everything (or most everything) in life, don’t assume all Christmas markets will be like the first one you visit. Though many things will feel the same, markets can vary in terms of the types of goods offered. Also, a town may have just one or two markets whereas another may have several. And perhaps hours of operation differ (in Basel, for example, the market by the cathedral opened at 11 AM on the weekday I visited).

Place #3 – Rüdesheim, Germany

This small town certainly packed a punch when it came to the Christmas market scene! The stands were everywhere in the heart of the town and by the river. And the pedestrian streets were jammed pack with people! It felt like a fun place to be.

Christmas market and streets of Rudesheim, Germany by the Rhine River

Tip #3 – Partake in the glühwein and food

The Christmas markets are well-known for offering visitors hot beverages to help with staying warm. While hot chocolate and hot juices are available, the typical drink is spiced, watered-down wine called glühwein normally available with white or red wine. It certainly is a unique beverage and, being diluted, it is not as strong as a real glass of wine. Normally not a fan of spices like cinnamon and others but I can tolerate this spiced wine as it feels good to hold the hot cup in my cold hands!

Gluhwein stand in Colmar, France — In France, ask for “vin chaud”!

Also worth noting is all the good food around the kiosks (besides the regular cafes or restaurants available)! Many local specialties like baked goods, flammkuchen, sausages, pretzels, etc. Don’t miss out!

Sausage stand at Christmas market in Cologne, Germany by the cathedral — You can ALMOST smell the sausages!

Oh, and how could I forget! When you order the glühwein, keep in mind that if you return the mug, you get a refund. Or, if you want the mug as a souvenir, you don’t have to return it. What they charged you up front, assumes you will not return it. You can walk around the market or out of it while you sip your drink! In some towns like Strasbourg, we noticed that many stands only offer a cheap plastic cup whereas other stands have the real mugs. Also, in Rüdesheim we got some mugs from 2016. You may or may not care, just want you to be aware!

Gluhwein stand at a Christmas market in Heidelberg, Germany — Plenty of mugs in this Heidelberg stand!

Place #4 – Heidelberg, Germany

Again, we have a place technically not on the Rhine River but typically part of the itinerary of many cruises courtesy of a bus ride! Of course, the most important thing to do in Heidelberg is to visit its imposing castle above town. Not only is it an impressive set of structures and ruins, it also offers great views of the town and the Neckar River that goes through it.

I have to say the Christmas markets I got to visit there were the least impressive of the ones I visited (Aachen’s was smaller but felt nicer). Thankfully, Heidelberg has a lot of things going for it.

Tip #4 – Check them out at day and at night

Daytime is short this time of year in these latitudes so this will not be hard to do. The Christmas markets felt different at night than in the daytime. It may be that they seemed to become more festive but that could be related to increased alcohol consumption perhaps? In any case, I’d suggest checking them out at these different times. This could also give you the opportunity perhaps to sit down somewhere for a proper meal intown or enjoy the local kiosk food.

Christmas market in Rudesheim, Germany along the Rhine River — Rüdesheim fun-filled streets at night

Place #5 – Strasbourg, France

This important seat of the European Union’s Parliament is quite a city. Its cathedral is fairly magnificent and its streets are lined with beautiful shops. Of course, this is one of the best places for Alsatian cuisine so I recommend not only walking to all the Christmas markets and side streets but also investing in a good lunch or dinner! Read more about how I experienced Strasbourg at Christmas here.

Chrismas market by the Strasbourg Cathedral in the Alsace region of France — Stands in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral

Tip #5 – Don’t buy everything in the first market

As you may expect, some of the goods (souvenirs or regular Christmas decorations) available in the markets are similar. But, since the towns along the river don’t share fully the same culture or history, there will be some variation in the items available. Even markets in one town may have different focus so the goods can vary there too. So don’t spend all your money in the first market or town!

Goods at a Christmas market in Germany — Not just Christmas goods but local and practical crafts!

Place #6 – Colmar, France

As Aachen and Heidelberg, Colmar is not along the Rhine River. The main “port” on the river near it would be Breisach, Germany. This French town close to the border with Germany is a real gem, Christmas markets or not! It is breathtaking to meander its streets and see all the beautiful buildings all around (this town is definitely worth a separate blog post!). In Christmas, as in other towns, many establishments decorate part of their facade which adds to charm of Colmar.

Street in Strasbourg, France decorated for Christmas (Noël) — One of the best decorations (this store in Strasbourg)

Navigating the streets is easiest with a map as the streets twist and turn but maps also make it seem that it takes longer to reach a given location. I can’t recall actually how many markets we visited but we enjoyed at least half of the six that were pointed out to us in the map. The tourist info office offers maps especially marked with the Christmas markets.

Tip #6 – Buy it if you like it

While tip #5 is true (don’t rush to buy everything in the first town), the flipside is also important. If you find something that catches your fancy, buy it then and there. You are not guaranteed you will find it in a later town!

Place #7 – Basel, Switzerland

If I understood correctly, there should be three Christmas markets in Basel, Switzerland. I visited two and did not run into the third. The ones I visited were in the city center. One was right by the cathedral on the hill and the other was below near the Basel Historical Museum (on Barfüsser Platz). I found the latter to have a good variety of items. I bought not only a glass of glühwein there but also marzipan goodies (delicious!).

Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid - Christmas Market in Basel Switzerland — Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid

Tip #7 – Take time to soak it all in

Looking at all the goods, eating and sipping a hot glühwein is all well and good. However, standing for a few minutes (or more) is rewarding too. Though there certainly will be tourists, locals enjoy these markets too! For example, we stood by a small counter in Aachen sipping our drink and watching the atmosphere around us. We also found a spot to sit outdoors and chat with friends in a hole-in-the-wall in Rüdesheim. We got to watch tourists and locals enjoy this special time of the year when many people may think it best to sit in the warmth of the indoors at home!

Also, walking through the streets of these towns and looking at regular stores is a must. As mentioned earlier, many places decorate and the spirit is festive in the city centers!

Christmas market in Cologne, Germany — Christmas market in Cologne

In the end, however you want to “do” the markets, do them! It is certainly different than how I have experienced Christmas before and maybe it will be so for you too!

Save this pin to your travel planning board!

Christmas markets, Cologne, weihnachten, mercados de Navidad, Germany

Filed Under: Europe, France, Germany, Switzerland, Travel Journal Tagged With: christmas markets, France, germany, gluhwein, rhine river cruise

The Historic Jewish District of Prague

2 December 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Before my first visit to Prague earlier this year, I had heard a lot about the beauty of the town. Everyone falls in love with Prague. Both banks of the Vltava River are quite picturesque and enjoyable to explore. However, not only until I had begun to research my visit there that I learned about its Jewish Quarter. So, on my first day in Prague, I set out to find it so I could learn more about what happened to the Jewish inhabitants of the city in World War II and pay respect to their memory as I did so…

As one may expect, the Jewish Quarter is in the heart of Old Town Prague on the eastern banks of the river, just south of where it makes an almost 90 degree easterly turn.

History preserved in Prague

The quarter’s history stems from when Jews living in the area were ‘asked’ to move to this area as a way to concentrate them into one quarter. Over the decades and centuries, more Jews arrived and moved into the quarter.

What is fascinating is that the district has survived (for the most part) all these centuries. From what I read, Adolf Hitler on purpose did not destroy the district to serve as a museum to what he thought would be a forgotten people. Wrong. But, because it was not destroyed, the streets and buildings remain in helping the world remember the vast tragedy inflicted upon Jews across Europe.

The general area of the Jewish Quarter constitutes the Jewish Museum in Prague. In other words, the museum is not a building with art or artifacts in it. The Jewish Museum in Prague is all the synagogues, other structures, the cemetery, and contents and exhibits. Worth spending half a day or more to see it all.

Here are some of the places you may want to visit and spend time in during your visit to the Jewish Museum in Prague.

The Old-New Synagogue

The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová Synagoga) is Europe’s oldest active synagogue. It is located across the Jewish Museum and the High Synagogue. Built in the 13th century, it was known as the New Synagogue. Later, many other synagogues were built and perhaps that led to its being called “Old-New”. Entrance is not included in the Jewish Museum entrance though many other places are.

Old-New Synagogue in Prague, Czechia — As seen from the street

The Klausen Synagogue and Ceremonial Hall

The Klausen Synagogue (Klausová Synagoga), Prague’s largest, sits right by the Old Jewish Cemetery of Prague. It was reconstructed in Baroque style around the 1880s on the site of other historic Jewish buildings. Its Ceremonial Hall‘s walls abut the cemetery itself. Both are included in the Jewish Museum entrance and are definitely worthy of visiting. The synagogue has many interesting displays of important artifacts that are definitely worth walking slowly for.

The Ceremonial Hall is quite small and no longer serves its original purpose to honor the deceased; it just houses small exhibits. It is in Romanesque style and was built in the early 20th century to replace an older building.

The Ceremonial Hall in Prague's Jewish Museum as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery — The Ceremonial Hall as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery

The Maisel Synagogue

While I did not visit this synagogue, it sounds like an important one to visit. It dates from the 16th century and it is named from the businessman who helped get it built. During WW II, it stored important items of Jewish property. It required a good bit of renovations over the last few decades to be able to keep it open to the public for different exhibits.

Old Jewish Cemetery

The Old Jewish Cemetery, with thousands of tombs, is one of the most poignant spots in the Jewish Museum. It is not that the people buried there died in during the Nazi regime; most date from between the 15th and 18th century. It is simply, to me, how crowded in all these tombs are combined with the tilting tombstones and the encroached space containing them. And that all this survived WW II and Communism. Almost mind-boggling.

The crowded tombs though are not just about how many tombs were fit in a given area. There are in some places up to 12 layers of tombs. That is, as the place filled up, new layers of soil were added so more people could be buried there. Tombstones were moved up as original tombs were buried even further down. Hence why the tombstones are so close together: that means there are multiple tombs in a given vertical dimension. Truly mind-boggling…

The Spanish Synagogue

This ornate synagogue feels different than the others. Its entrance feels “industrial” for someone used to entering places of worship through a front door. But, once you enter the sanctuary (if that’s a proper term for a Jewish synagogue), you forget about that. Its walls are of dark colors with golden patterns decorating them.

Right outside is the statue of Kafka – an interesting tiny sideshow in such a somber area of town.

The Pinkas Synagogue

The Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) is one of the most moving of all of the sites I visited by a good bit. We approached the ticket office not yet fully knowing what to expect. As we proceeded indoors, we saw the walls inscribed with the names of all the no-longer nameless victims of the brutality of Nazism. Several rooms’ worth of walls inscribed so they are etched in history in a more proper way… It was moving to walk through this modest synagogue to serve witness to the lives so brutally extinguished. Equally moving was seeing the room with drawings made by children in the camps and then to walk outside and read the panels that detail the story of Terezin, a concentration camp north of Prague. Terrible but important history to spend time reading/understanding…

Many reminders of the human lives cut short by evil…

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Traveling is a rewarding experience mainly to all the marvelous sights one gets to enjoy. But, sometimes, it is not about that at all. It is about the somber lessons history holds about the things we should never forget…

Filed Under: Czech Republic, Europe, Travel Journal Tagged With: Jewish Museum, Jewish Quarter, old synagogue, Praga, Prague, travel to the Czech Republic, visita a Praga

Great Drive Series – St. Ignatius to St. Regis, Montana

11 November 2019 by Raul 3 Comments

While exploring northwest Montana with a friend this past September, we tried to chart different routes as we covered a loop over a 4-day visit to the area. We started in and finished in Spokane but wanted to minimize taking the same route twice. We succeeded in that effort save for the stretch on the interstate between Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and Spokane, Washington. After leaving Bigfork by Flathead Lake, we drove south via Polson to the town of St. Ignatius on Route 93. We had some options to get back towards Coeur d’Alene and we choose a back route to minimize time on I-90. This route would take us from St. Ignatius to St. Regis first on Route 200 and then on Route 135. It was a great choice!

The approach to the town of St. Ignatius was impressive!

St. Ignatius, Montana

St. Ignatius was a mission initially established around the mid-19th century in the Flathead Indian Reservation in this part of Montana (the original log cabin still stands). The current Catholic church dates from the 1890s and is quite impressive in this town of less than a 1,000 residents or so.

House in St. Ignatius

The church was undergoing renovations when I went and we got to meet the pastor who was assigned a few years ago to oversee the restoration efforts. He greeted visitors on the day I went and explained the efforts right up until a family arrived for a baptism when he put on the right gear and proceeded to welcome a little one into the faith.

The Road to St. Regis

After leaving St. Ignatius with its beautiful reminder of times past, of faith, and of those who served selflessly the latter in the former, we got on the road to St. Regis. It was a beautiful road with many amazing landscapes and photo opportunities that I share here so you can have a glimpse of the beauty of this not-often-visited part of our country. I leave you with those images and wish to return!

Along the Flathead River

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.

Along the Clark Fork River

Scenic drive in Montana from St. Ignatius to St. Regis

Filed Under: Great Drives, Montana, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: great drive series, mission in St. Ignatius, Montana. Flathead Reservation, road trips in Montana, St. Ignatius Catholic Church

3 Places to See in the Remote Corners of Idaho and Montana

22 October 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

Up in the panhandle of Idaho and the northwest corner of Montana, there is some spectacular, largely unspoiled scenery. I imagine not many get to see these lands as people focus on Coeur d’Alene, Big Sky or Glacier Mountain National Park. Well, it may make sense that they focus on those places but, if you have the chance, venture off-the-beaten-path. I did just that simply on intuition, assuming/hoping that the remote corners of Idaho and Montana would deliver. I was not disappointed. Lake Pend Oreille, Ross Creek Cedar Trail and Kootenai Falls delivered!

#1 Before Montana: Idaho and Lake Pend Oreille

On my way to NW Montana, we drove north from Coeur d’Alene on route 95 through the town of Sandpoint to take Route 200 around Lake Pend Oreille. Originally we had planned to go north past Sandpoint to Bonners Ferry and then take U.S. Highway 2. However, the visitor center in Sandpoint recommended not continuing north on Route 95 but taking Route 200 instead to enjoy the scenic drive along the lake’s shore. The exact quote was “I don’t why young punks insist of going north to Bonners Ferry”; I was flattered by the “young”…

In any event… Lake Pend Oreille is the 5th deepest lake in the U.S. and the 38th/39th largest lake in the country. Interestingly, it became the second largest naval training ground in the world during World War II after the attack on Pearl Harbor – who knew!

Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho's panhandle, map, great drive

Lake Pend Oreille looks like an ear – or a shrimp

The name of the lake means ear pendant in French which makes sense as it looks like an ear on the map. However, it was named back when the shape was not as evident. But, a likely explanation I read was that the Kalispeli residents of the area, whom the Canadian traders ran into, did wear ear pendants.

I don’t know what our original planned route would have been like but Route 200 around the lake was right on point. Lake Pend Oreille’s coastline is nice and curvy and there are plenty of pull-offs to stop and soak it all in.

We were also advised to try The Pantry bakery in Clark Fork where locals make delicious and fresh pastries (and one could pick up something for lunch too). We did stop and enjoyed apple and cherry pies and bought this phenomenal chocolate pound cake that I enjoyed the rest of the trip!

#2 Ross Creek Cedar Trail in Route 56

Once we left Clark Fork, the visitor center advisor had also suggested we take Route 56 on our way to get to U.S. Highway 2 as the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park was worth a stop and Route 56 was quite scenic. Our plan all along had been to get to Hwy 2 (but by Bonners Ferry, if you recall…) to enter Montana so the recommendation would still allow us to do that, so we took it. Some time after crossing into Montana from Idaho on Route 200, we found Route 56.

Ross Creek Cedar Trail was a short (1 mile or so) walk through a grove of cedar trees. The tree trunks were massively wide at their bases. Some of the trees are 1,000 years old (I found it mindboggling but the forest service website says so!). It was a nice way to stretch the legs on an easy trail and breathe clean, fresh air! (Well, as long as you are not close to the vault toilets… what a situation!)

The drive out of the park along route 56 going north towards Troy was fun as it was not highly trafficked and the scenery quite enjoyable. Driving north seeing the mountains ahead made for a memorable drive!

Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Heading out of the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park towards route 56

Views off route 56

Kootenai River, route 56 in Montana, Kootenai Falls, US Highway 2 in Montana

Entering Kootenai River Country in route 56

#3 Kootenai Falls in Montana

Soon, we reached Hwy 2 and and headed east to get to Kootenai Falls, about 4 miles away or so. Easy to pull off the road into a parking area next to the trail-head. It did not take long to see why this spot is so highly recommended as a must-see. The hike itself is not too strenuous but it is not a flat, smooth path. But before you get there, you will have to go down a few flights of stairs in a large metal staircase that helps cross over the railroad line that goes through the area.

I will let the photos speak for themselves, just know that there are two paths: one to the main part of the falls and the other to a swinging bridge that serves a a good vantage point to look at the falls. Do cross the bridge as there is a good vantage point from there too.

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Some spectacular fishing spot!

Photo opps galore!

Check out the falls in motion!

Do you have other suggestions for exploring the remote corners of Idaho and Montana ??

Filed Under: Great Drives, Idaho, Montana, Travel Journal Tagged With: exploring western Montana, Idaho's Panhandle, Idaho's route 200, impressive waterfalls, Kootenai Falls, Lake Pend Oreille, ross creek cedar trail

Glacier Mountain National Park: St. Mary and Virginia Falls

30 September 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Glacier Mountain National Park in Montana is known as the “Crown of the Continent.” And it is rightly so called: it is peaceful, magnificent, and elegant. One of the funnest hikes in the park is hiking to St. Mary Falls and Virginia Falls right by the edge of St. Mary Lake, one of the two main lakes in the most visited part of the park.

St. Mary Lake is on the eastern side of the park, at the eastern end of the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, by the small town of St. Mary. GTTS Road, as it is colloquially known, is one of the absolute must-dos to enjoy the Glacier Mountain park’s majesty. Driving along the lake going westward from the park’s main entrance is by itself an enjoyable experience. As you drive west, the lake will be on your left with majestic mountains as the backdrop – which makes for many great photo opportunities. There are numerous spots to pull off the road to admire the beauty and/or take pictures (don’t snap and drive!). Depending on the time of day, the light will be different. If you have the luxury of seeing it at different times of the day (especially early-early AM or late/late afternoon), do so! I got to drive GTTS Road both in the mid/late-afternoon and in the early morning, and loved the difference sunrise vs. pre-sunset made in the scenery.

montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

Looking west towards a mid-afternoon cloud-covered sky

Once we got to the western end of the lake (about 10 miles from the park entrance), we pulled in to the parking area to take us to St. Mary Falls. This parking lot was between the St. Mary Falls shuttle stop and the Sunrift Gorge shuttle stop. If you are taking the park’s red shuttle, you can start the hike from either of those stops as there are trailheads next to them.

Our plan was to hike 1.2 miles to get to St. Mary Falls (4,560 ft altitude). Then we would go a little further (an additional 0.7 miles) to reach Virginia Falls which sits higher at around 4,800 ft. If you are of average fitness, you are likely able to go all the way to Virginia Falls. If you feel you can handle the climb, you will likely agree that it is worth going that much further and higher to see Virginia Falls. In the end, it is not a long hike, really.

While bears are in their natural habitat anywhere in the park, this particular trail is well-trodden by people so, hopefully, the noise of people talking keeps them from approaching the trail. Just be on the lookout and carry your bear spray in a spot where you can quickly access it. There is no better way to keep yourself safe than to be proactive in looking out for your safety!

Hiking to St. Mary Falls

Along the way you can admire mountains that rise upwards of 8,000 ft in altitude (on a trail where your max altitude is about 4,800 ft). Pay attention to the signage as (from the parking lot we started from) there are a couple of junctions that could take you to different places.

montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

One of the junctions

Once we were far enough along, all of a sudden we saw a river (St. Mary) and then heard the sound of the waterfall.

montana outdoors, st mary falls, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The bridge is the sign of the destination!

St Mary River downstream from the same-named falls

Pretty soon we saw the wooden bridge placed in front of the waterfalls and, as we turned a bend, got to the bridge so we could see the waterfalls. The waterfalls has three levels though two of them are the most eye-catching of the trio.

St. Mary Falls

Hiking on to Virginia Falls

Once you are done enjoying St. Mary Falls continue the trail on the other side of the bridge. The terrain gets a little more difficult to get to Virginia Falls. We were excited to see a waterfall but realized that was not Virginia Falls.

The trail got steeper but, thankfully, the scenery made it all worth it. I don’t think you have to be an athlete to do this hike as long as you are generally in good health. Feel free to stop and snap photos – it gives you a little rest and there are definitely a couple of spots where one should step and just soak it all in.

hiking trail, montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park, ilivetotravel hiking

Can’t pass on snapping a photo in front of the beautiful landscape!

The best spot to do that is actually the foot of Virginia Falls. But wait. You will see Virginia Falls from a vantage point where you can appreciate them from a distance. But that’s not what I am calling the “foot” of the falls.

virginia falls, montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The first sighting of Virginia Falls

There is a view point a short distance up from that one. It is worth dealing with the trail which, if it is wet, can be a tad slippery.

Keep on going!

That view offers a flat rocky area with plenty of space to get close enough to the waterfalls – you can feel the spray on you. It is much more impressive than St. Mary Falls partly for its size but also the setting of the spot.

Amazing!

What do you think??? Of the scenery, NOT of my video-ing skills!

This short hike (about 4 miles round trip) can be added to by visiting nearby Baring Falls which requires going almost all the way back and, at one of the aforementioned junctions, make a different turn (unless you park at Sun Point Nature Trail in which case you will pass Baring Falls on your way to St. Mary Falls). After seeing St. Mary and Virginia Falls, we felt it was unlikely Baring would impress us. I wish I had seen it just to know for sure but it was time to call it a day!

The reward after a nice hike is looking back west across St. Mary Lake as one follows GTTS Road

Filed Under: Hiking, Travel Journal, Western Montana Tagged With: glacier mountain national park, going to the sun road, hiking, montaña, st mary falls

Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

1 August 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin. I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.). This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere. More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck. It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town: Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea. I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate. And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm. Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that. But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

I have to be frank: I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip. Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar. I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia. Its origins can be traced to the 1100s. I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903! Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around. Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot. It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings. And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed. Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start. Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II.

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960. The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design. That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened. Powerful.

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The bell tower from 2 sides

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.

Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower. It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part. So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!