The circuit hike is beginning to approach its conclusion on day 5. However, it is not a time to assume it will all be easy now! The Gjendebu to Memurubu hike on day 5 presented the most scary section of the six hikes I did at Jotunheimen.
The trail that day would be about 6.75 miles and about 2,400 ft elevation gain. It took us almost 5 hrs (durations cited include breaks taken).
It was our earliest departure to-date at 8:10 AM. The day was a little rainy as we departed Gjendebu, walking past the ferry pier (that could take you to Gjendesheim). We proceeded along a forest expecting fast elevation gain, which was true after maybe 1.25 miles, when we cleared the forest.
As usual in Jotunheimen, rocks and water mix to become THE trail. These trails are not groomed, folks. Walk on them. Carefully.
Neat views and narrow trails
The terrain was STEEP. The trail hugged the side of the ridge VERY tightly as the next two photos show. Of course, offering great views.
Chain me up to leave Gjendebu
And, at some point high up, we hit 4 rock faces that required chains to go up. The first segment was the worst as it had no toehold/foothold to help support the body weight. It was pure arm strength to pull oneself (and the backpack) up to the next level. Mind you, behind me was a steep drop as the segment was very vertical so that added to the adrenaline… The next two segments offered some toeholds which certainly made it a tad easier.
However, I had no idea how many of these were ahead and of what kind so it was a little concerning not having trained for it. Thankfully, there were only four chain sections and the last one required chain to walk and not slip vs. needing to pull up.
A bit after the fourth section, I was able to exhale believing we were done with the chains – which we were! At the end of the day, looking back, it was fun to have faced this challenge and glad to know I was fit enough to do it. We reached the top of this massive climb around mile 2.1. The elevation gain in less than a mile had been about 1.500 ft.
And a nice, beautiful, kind trail…
After that, the terrain consisted of climbs and descents of moderate levels with some flat segments in between. We were sort of walking along a ridge, going up to the various high points of the ridge (sort of “summits”). They went on probably for 5 miles or a little less. The scenery was amazing – a great reward for the steep-and-scary elevation gain earlier on.
… until the final, cruel descent to Memurubu
Before getting to the final summit on the ridge, we spotted our target: Memurubu turisthytte!
But, before the descent, we had a quick stop for lunch. The ham and cheese sandwich with cucumber was a favorite of mine! It is worth noting that you prepare whatever sandwich you want for lunch at the breakfast service before you leave the lodge you spent the night at. So you get to make yourself 1 or 2 sandwiches of whatever you want.
We hit the final summit (at around 4,200 ft above sea level) after lunch and proceeded to descend to Memurubu which we could see during the final bit of the ridge hike. The descent was very steep and with a lot of loose rocks. It was not pleasant terrain at all but the views continued to inspire – as well as seeing the end goal so within reach 🙂 And, compared with descents like from Glittertind, this was easy stuff!
At Memurubu to rest, eat and… rest!
We arrived in Memurubu around 1:40 PM and reception was not open yet. There were quite a number of people around but many were just waiting for the ferry to Gjendesheim.
We were assigned to a room in a building near the main lodge. We opted for a private bath at this lodge which was nice. The common areas of the lodge were very nice, spacious and you really felt you wanted to hang out.
We enjoyed a beer after showering and before dinner. OK, maybe more than one. It was happy time at Memurubu!
Check out Day 4 (Leirvassbu to Gjendebu)
Or, read on to the final day: Day 6 (Memurubu to Gjendesheim!)
