The town of Toledo, in the heart of Spain, is loaded with history, faith and meaning for Spain. This town, perched high and surrounded on three sides by the river Tagus, served as capital of Spain – last time until the second half of the 16th century. Toledo’s Cathedral is its most impressive, but far from the only, great attribute. And definitely one of the most beautiful I have ever seen (and I have visited many!).
A unique setting is one of Toledo’s assets
Its position up high by the river can be best appreciated across the river instead of within the town itself. If you come from the train station, you will -all of a sudden- see the Alcazar fortress prominently on display, and a couple of bridges across the river. One of these bridges is made of stonework and is very impressive. Once you cross, you can either climb up steps and ramps to arrive at the main square or take the electric stairs that seem to be endless. If you are able to, I recommend the walk even if you go slowly so you can appreciate more the setting/
A crossroads of cultures and history
It is famous for so many things. It blended Christian, Jewish and Moorish cultures and their unique monotheistic faiths. One can see this manifested most strongly in the architectural details all over the old town. The old town is a maze of alleys, some pedestrian, some not, and it is easy to get lost but, thankfully, the town is small and contained by city walls for the most part.
El Greco rules
Among the many valuable cultural treasures are many paintings of El Greco (many of them in the Cathedral). But one of his most famous paintings, the Entierro del Conde de Ordaz (the Burial of the Count of Orgaz) from 1586 resides in a small church called the Church of Santo Tomé. Friends of my family had a copy of the painting in their home during my childhood and I spent much time observing the painting, fascinated by the scene it portrays. So getting to see the real – and much larger – painting is a real treat.
El Greco’s paintings usually portray people with elongated faces which I feel adds more drama to any scene he is painting. The museum at the Cathedral has a few more beautiful works of El Greco!
And now to Toledo’s Cathedral
I have traveled a lot as you can tell from the blog and have seen many churches of many types and sizes. So it means something when I say this is in the top 5, if not top 3, in terms of how amazing it is in every which way. Upon first sighting the structure, it is not as striking as other cathedrals or large churches I have seen…
But that is the only shortfall in my book for Toledo’s 13th century Gothic cathedral!
The choir of Toledo’s cathedral
Its choir is something to admire, not just for pure woodwork, but for all the history that the woodwork depicts.
Side chapels and ceilings are works of art of their own!
Don’t miss checking out the altars and side chapels. And do not forget to look up. The artwork is amazing in every corner of Toledo’s cathedral.
The most spectacular altar
The cathedral’s altar is a jewel onto itself. A large, massive jewel! It is a wonder of man-made craft inspired by faith. Certainly, one is inspired to connect with God when standing, sitting or kneeling in front of it, which is the idea in the end…
The retable (or the main golden piece shown in the photo) at its center rises five stories high. The paintwork was done by many famous painters, architects and sculptios of the time and area.
Behind the altar is more amazing artwork!
It would be so hard to not be moved as a Christian when walking around Toledo’s cathedral. In every corner there is major artwork! The backside of the altar is no exception.
I am no art expert. I believe this is Baroque style: very elaborated! It certainly stands in contrast to the rest of the Cathedral’s Gothic style. I was very surprised when I saw it.
And then I looked up and saw the painted ceiling as it rose to a painted dome. Who thought of all this and how hard was it to design it and paint it?!
I learned later this altar is called “El Transparent” as it focuses light from the “skylight” above on the tabernacle at certain times of the day.
Until next time, Toledo!
A very inspiring and awe-inducing visit, even if not my first time there. 30 years between visits does take its toll in my memory bank from pre-smartphone days (and the ease of photographing freely). I am very fortunate to have been able to return and re-encounter Toledo and its cathedral.
