Camino - ilivetotravel's travel log

Camino Packing and Training Tips

2 April 2018 by Raul 6 Comments

The Camino de Santiago has become a very popular destination/experience for many around the world, especially after the movie “The Way” hit the movies screens and as more people do it. People of all ages and nationalities gravitate to this, as did I and a group I traveled with last summer to hike the Camino. So far, I have written about each of our 7 days in a series of posts (start here with Day 1). But I’d thought I’d devote some time to sharing Camino packing and training tips.

While this is not an exhaustive treatise on each of the topics, it should give you a good high-level understanding on training. I hope it also helps you develop a good packing list with what to wear and items you will need. Please feel free to ask questions or suggest your own tips via the comments section below.

How fast can you do the Camino de Santiago

How strenuous the day is on the Camino de Santiago depends on how much ground you plan to cover on a given day. If you are young (read: in your 20s or early 30s), you likely think you can attack the Camino and do over 20 miles a day, perhaps 30. That’s crazy talk. Yes, you physically may be able to but a couple of things:

1. After a couple of days of pushing this way, your body will let you know how crazy that was. I have heard the horror stories. Don’t be over-ambitious.

2. More importantly, you are missing the point of the Camino. Yes, getting to the destination is the “aim.” But the point is to be on a journey, a pilgrimage (whether spiritual or emotional). Moving at the speed of sound renders this experience as just checking an item off the bucket list. Which, if it is all it is for you, then fast speed might as well be your friend because you will get bored not seeing it as an experience for such a long way. No judgment here, just saying that soaking it in is probably best.

The answer to this question could also depend on how much of the Camino are you planning to cover. I only had a week and had to do the minimum distance to get the Compostela (the famous certificate granted to provide pilgrims with proof that they did indeed make it to Santiago de Compostela). Therefore, I had to make sure I covered the distance. Yet, I had enough time to sit for leisurely lunches and also not have to wake up at the crack of dawn. I’d peg my speed at the mid-point with my max distance on a given day around 12-14 miles.

How to train to do the Camino

Let’s start the packing and training tips for doing the Camino with the latter. The Camino is not Everest Base Camp or Mt. Kilimanjaro but that does not mean it is easy. The challenges posed by the Camino are different than those epic climbs. While altitude is a factor in those hikes, that is not the case with the Camino.

The mountains or hills faced in the Camino will not compare to hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or getting to Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro. But if you walk more than the minimum distance required to get the Compostela, you will need to prepare for some good climbs. And the corresponding downhills (always fun on the delicate knees of a hiker…).

The final factor to keep in mind is that while there may not be tons of steep hills nor altitude, this hike puts a lot of stress on your feet. When I climbed Kilimanjaro, the distances walked on a given day were well in the single-digits in terms of miles (maybe it got to double digits in kilometer-land). Yes, it was difficult due to low oxygen and steepness but it was not brutal on my feet. Don’t get me wrong, when I would arrive at camp, I was desperate to take off my boots! But the Camino is much more unforgiving when it comes to your feet. They take a beating, so make sure they keep on ticking.

What to consider to build your Camino packing list

Before I get into the key items for your Camino packing list, clearly whether you are carrying all your stuff on your back or not makes a big difference. Yes, there is an option to NOT carry it all yourself from place to place! Now, that may not be your style and all that, and that’s OK. But, for some, it is the way to go and it was for me 🙂

Regardless of how you do it, I will still issue the same warning: don’t over-pack. You will be amazed at how little you can get by with. A lot less than you think. And worst comes to worst, you can go to a local store along the way and buy what you need…

But I also say that because going on this journey, in my view, is about changing some parameters about our lives. Develop new insights, clear our heads, have new experiences, and -hopefully- be renewed in whatever way we may need to. So, with all that said, here are some things that I deemed important to take along my Camino…

What to pack for the Camino

Feet

Good walking shoes or boots. Without good shoes that you have broken in BEFORE the Camino, you will be in trouble. Don’t be cheap about this item. Cheap out on the camera or other items but not on this, my friends! These could be boots or walking shoes. The former gives you better ankle protection. The latter may feel more comfortable. You may want both to alternate. After many days of wearing the same show, you may long for a different pair… Up to you (as are all the tips I share here!). Certainly, I would say, get waterproof in case it rains.

Along with the shoes, go non-cotton socks. What good is a pair of proper and broken in walking shoes if you are going to just slap on cotton socks? Cotton socks are an invitation for blisters and the painful fun that means for the few days after you develop them. Wool socks and, ideally, liners complete the most important focus of your gear list: your feet.
Now, if the socks and shoes don’t do it and a blister seems imminent (sometimes blisters just develop…), you must quickly take action to prevent the blister from materializing. At that point, you want to protect the spot where you are beginning to feel the burning (which is exactly what you feel BEFORE the blister arrives). The simplest and cheapest solution is to place a small piece of duct tape on that spot on your foot. Yes, stop, take footwear off and apply the small patch of duct tape – don’t wait. So duct tape is a must-carry on any hike with the added side benefit that you can repair other things with it as needed. But don’t carry the roll, for goodness’ sake! Wrap duct tape on a pencil or on your hiking pole and you will save space and weight.
In case things go too far and you develop a blister, a blister repair kit is a good idea to bring along. I was the beneficiary of a fellow’s trekker blister “repair” kit coming down Kilimanjaro and became a believer. I don’t recall the brand I used on the Camino but the item below is the one I bought for my next hike in Patagonia.

Clothing

Now we can get past all things feet. From a clothing standpoint, the usual advice applies here.

Layers. The weather can vary and some high spots can get very cold. And depending on the time of year, it could get quite warm during the day. So plan to have layers which help manage the changes you may experience throughout the day.
Waterproof. At some point, you may encounter rain so you want proper rain gear which might as well also serve as wind-breaking gear. In terms of things to wear, make sure it is really waterproof (Gore-Tex). Waterproof also refers to protecting the contents of your backpack, whether by placing a bag over your backpack or putting the contents of your backpack in plastic bags. Your choice!
Wicking. Since you may not be carrying one-for-every-day in the underwear category and to help your skin remain “un-irritated”, wicking underwear is a good idea. It removes humidity before sweat covers your skin which prevents bad odors. And, hence, should you decide to wear them more than once between washings, then at least you know you will not smell! Because my hike was only 7 days, I had underwear for every day but I still used wicking underwear for the comfort of not developing chaffing, etc.

Temperatures. Plan for a range of temperatures. This ties to the layers bit but also realize that, at night when you are not hiking, you may want to sit outdoors and it may get chilly at night, even in the summer depending on the weather system on a given day in your area. So some light jacket in the summer may be appropriate for the evenings; perhaps more substantial at other times of the year
Comfort. Be sure the materials you wear are comfortable to you. During 6-8 hours of hiking, you want to be comfortable not itching or something else. When you get to the next town, you WILL want those walking shoes off and will love slipping into some flip flops, sandals or running shoes or whatever other comfortable footwear you like. Bring only one of those, no need to overdo it, but allow yourself this luxury! (Flip flops could be handy to shower in communal showers if that’s your accommodation style!)

Miscellaneous

Hunger avoidance devices (read: snacks). You will not hungry on this trek! Plenty of places to stop and get a snack or a meal at very reasonable prices. Carrying two boxes of protein or granola bars is wasted weight and space and, more importantly, keeping you from sampling local foods and snacks. So, just carry what you buy locally or just stop along the way!
A camera! You can certainly opt for a different kind of travel if you are not drawn to capturing memories in this manner. Journaling, for example, may be a better way for some. For yours truly, though, the imagery of a place not only captures my attention but is also a way I use to be able to share what I experience. Along with this go the requisite battery charger or extra batteries and an appropriate number of SD cards 🙂 I do like the wifi SD card which allows me to transfer photos out of my SD card onto another device (good for backup or to clear memory on the SD card).
Toiletries and accessories. Yep, you know what this list is about (toothbrush, deodorant, etc.) so no need to detail it nor give you too much advice. But I will call out some things… First, bring travel-sized items. Second, see how much stuff you can live without. Do you really need a hair dryer? (No judgment implied!) Finally, some items I will recommend… Some hand lotion/moisturizer is a good idea. Chapstick is a must. Also, some antibacterial liquid (e.g., Purell) is a must along, Finally, add wipies to the list but no need to bring more than a handful per day, actually.
First aid. While there are kits out there, I just go with common sense and practical. There are drug stores and the like in the towns you will pass so no need to overdo it. Some band-aids, some anti-diarrhea meds in case you can’t make it to them town (no one had troubles of this sort in our group), some anti-inflammatory in case something hurts (knees, for example), and the like should make a good kit. As a packing tip, I used ziploc bags that are half of the regular sandwich bag to pack meds. This eliminated the need to carry bottles which can occupy more space. Whether you want to get Cipro (digestive system antibiotic), Ambien (to sleep) or anything else, it is up to you and your doctor. I took none of those meds though I take Cipro when I go to some destinations. Of course, if you are taking prescription drugs, bring those and write down somewhere the main ingredient (vs. the medication name). If something happens and you need to get more locally, the main ingredient is what you need.
Night light. If you will be sleeping in shared accommodations, this comes in handy to minimize disrupting others’ sleep and/or preventing you from tripping in the middle of the night as you make a night run to the restroom 🙂 I prefer headlamps like this one so I can be “hands-free”; please don’t make me explain why 🙂

Backpack. Please, whatever you do, do not bring a Swiss Army backpack (well-designed as they are for the frequent traveler) or, even worse, your college backpack. You will be likely carrying more weight than you are used to. And, I guarantee, that your back and shoulders will appreciate you bringing a backpack with a waist strap and a chest strap to help distribute the impact of the load on your upper body. Plus be sure the main straps and the backpack have some padding where they will touch your body. Remember, it is many days of carrying it so be good to yourself. And size does matters, when it comes to backpacks. Will the size you get be able to fit all that you will carry on your back every day? Remember, if you want the convenience, there are services that every day pick up your luggage and deliver it to the next place you will stay (if you know in advance). With this option, you only carry what you need during your walk. Bottom line: figure out how much you need the backpack to carry (don’t forget to account for the water!) and then choose a size.

Backpack cover. Along with this, have something ready to cover your backpack if it rains. Trust me, no matter what they say, water will get in if it rains enough (e.g., think of the zippers). You can buy a backpack cover (some backpacks come with it) or, save money and bring a nice size, good quality trash bag or maybe even just a cheap poncho. Additionally, a way to prevent stuff getting wet is by packing items in large ziplocs before placing them within your backpack. Remember that you are on the go and it may not always be easy or possible to dry any items that get wet.

Need any other Camino packing and training tips?

Alright, there is likely more to be said and advice to be given for someone planning their Camino packing and training. More than likely, I will make some edits in the future. In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts, ask questions, etc. in the comments section. Remember, your questions or suggestions will likely benefit other readers! And if you want an Excel version of my Camino packing list (with a lot of the smaller items), leave me a comment and I will send to you.

Buen Camino!

Want to see what every day was like? Click on the day and read on! Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6 and Day 7

Pin this image to your planning board!

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Camino de Santiago, doing the Camino, gear list, how to train for camino, packing list camino, spain, what to wear camino

Finisterre: The End of Earth No More!

5 September 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

A “short” 90-km walk from Santiago de Compostela, where the famous Camino (Way of St. James) ends, is Finisterre. Finisterre is a town but the more famous Finisterre is the cape that signifies “the end of earth.” Back when folks assumed this was the end of earth, hence the name. (Note: It is also known as Fisterra in the local dialect, Galician or gallego).

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The town of Finisterre from a distance

Many pilgrims who do the Camino, keep going past the end point, the city of Santiago de Compostela. I did not when I went because the end goal of the Camino, in my book, is entering the Plaza del Obradoiro and then going to Mass at the massive and old Cathedral.

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While 0k for the Camino is in Santiago, this is 0 km too

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Posing with friends – and friendly photobombers!

However, I highly recommend hiking or somehow making it to Finisterre. I personally loved walking the rugged terrain past the lighthouse.

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The Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre

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Water activities abound in the area

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Pilgrims leave articles of clothing upon reaching the end of their Camino

It reminded me when I went to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa (check it out here), maybe just a little less spectacular here but impressive nonetheless.

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Finisterre lighthouse

If you drive from Santiago, there is an inland route, more direct, and a route that hugs the shoreline. I recommend the latter on the way over to Finisterre so you can see Finisterre from the distance and see the beautiful coastline. I am sure in other times of the year this coastline is slightly less hospitable but on the beautiful July day I went, it was nothing short of spectacular. On the way back, we did take the fast route back – and that was fine with me.

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The Cape (top left) and the town of Finisterre to its right

A small coastal town watched over by windmills, a common sight around there

Beautiful waters!

A small town along the route

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Smart to rely on these guys given how windy it is!

On the way over, before getting to the coastline, we stopped at a small village by the Rio Tambre to visit a charming town right of CP-0201, not far from Santiago. The Ponte Maceira crosses the river into the village and forms part of the Camino as witnessed by the many pilgrims we saw cross it. The village is graced not only by the bridge but by a chapel, an old mill, and a very approachable riverside. Definitely a “must stop.”

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Pilgrims crossing the Ponte Maceira (Maceira Bridge)

The Rio Tambre

The village by the bridge

The old mill and an approach to the river

The only bummer for my visit was that there was a small festival (for the Feast of St. James) going on near the Cape and we could not stop. I would have so loved to eat fresh seafood and mingle with the locals. I hear any of the towns along the shore will have incredible fresh seafood. I believe it!

If you do have time to explore the area, don’t just go to the cape. Not that it is overly touristy or that it isn’t spectacular, but there are other parts of the coast that are well worth exploring. The Rias Baixas (which you may know if you know Spanish wine…), just south of Finisterre, are a series of estuaries/inlets from the Atlantic Ocean that create a mini-ecosystem rich in marine life and with many beaches and water activities, a magnet for tourists from Spain. While certainly not the French Riviera, it also lacks the over-touristed ambience of places like that, making it more relaxed. So, give yourself an extra day or two and enjoy Finisterre and all that the area around it offers in the region of Galicia!

Beautiful coastline

More of the coastline

Doing the Camino to Finisterre (or driving to it!) should make it to your travel board!!

Filed Under: Europe, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, coast, Compostela, Finisterre, Fisterra, Galicia, lighthouse, rias baixas, Santiago, spain, Way

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 7 from Lavacolla to Santiago!

12 January 2015 by Raul 9 Comments

The big day arrived on Day 7. On this day, we departed on the Camino for the last time as we left lovely Pazo Xan Xordo to enter Santiago de Compostela as many have done over the last 1,000 years on this ancient pilgrimage for the final 2.5 hours of our trek. We were excited but were also on a schedule as we needed to arrive on-time to attend Pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela at noon. Since this Mass gets packed, we wanted to be there at minimum 30 minutes in advance. We wanted to sit on the nave on the side of the altar in case they used the “botafumeiro.” They did not, to our great disappointment, but if they had, it would have flown right over us!

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Waiting for Pilgrim’s Mass to start

Monte de Gozo

But I get ahead of myself. So we left Lavacolla sharp at 8 AM and made one stop at the impressive Monte de Gozo on the outskirts of town. It was from this vantage point that pilgrims would get their first glimpse of the final destination. “Gozo” means happiness which is exactly what the pilgrims would feel at this point after so many months/years of hiking their way across Europe and Spain. I was more impressed by the monument built here and taking pictures of the sun showing through the top of the monument.

The monument at Monte de Gozo

Each side of the monument commemorates something different

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Loved catching the sun through the glass cross

The great arrival in Santiago de Compostela

At some point in the walk (I think it was on a big downhill), we stopped being “outside” of Santiago and entered the outlying sectors of the city.

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One of the last villages we passed before entering Santiago proper (after Monte de Gozo)

We crossed a long bridge over a highway and we felt like this was the final stretch. OK, it was a long final stretch and we did stop at a café to make a final pit stop and to get a snack (not sitting down). We knew once we hit Santiago, we were likely not going to get a break until noon Mass ended so this was a smart choice!

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Welcome to Santiago de Compostela!

As we got closer, it seemed the streets got narrower which kept making us more eager to finally get there. I was eager to see the reaction of my fellow trekkers when they first saw the Cathedral (I had been there in 1994 already).

Getting the Compostela and Pilgrim’s Mass

Our plan was to hit town and immediately head to the Pilgrim’s Office (on rua Vilar) to get our “Compostela,” the certificate granted to those who complete the Camino. A nice volunteer from Ireland named (of course) Mary helped English speakers with instructions to be ready to step inside and get the Compostela; a few questions were asked and the credencial (passport) was briefly examined.

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Pilgrims filling out their papers while waiting for their Compostela

It was an exhilarating moment to get the Compostela (after standing in line about 25 minutes) even if I briefly embarrassed myself by telling the lady that she had gotten my first name wrong. She politely told me that they write the first name in Latin not in its regular form… As soon as I got to the hotel later, I took photos of the Compostela just in case something happened to it on the rest of the trip!

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The big moment of getting the Compostela!

We had been told we could not take our backpacks in for Mass so we then proceeded to drop off our backpacks next to the Pilgrim’s Office for 2 euros. We then were free to make our way to the Cathedral but, first, we took quick group and individual photos in the Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral.

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Our Trekking for Kids group posing in front of the Cathedral

We then moved in to claim our spots for Mass and we took turns while we waited for the start of Mass to go behind the main altar to see the tomb of Santiago (St. James), after all, all this started because of him!

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Another detail of the interior

St. James’ tomb

Details from inside the Cathedral

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A side altar

During Mass, in the part where they greet the pilgrims, they mention groups by name. I had told them at the Pilgrim’s Office that we were a group, Trekking for Kids, from the U.S. and Canada and it was neat to hear us greeted during Mass.

We had heard that because 2014 was the 800th anniversary of St. Francis doing the Camino, the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis), not far from the Cathedral was issuing another certificate to pilgrims (the “Cotolaya“) so we went later that day to claim it (at this point, we would have taken any certificate issued to pilgrims, I think!).

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Walking towards the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis)

Main altar at the Church of San Francisco

So our week-long trek along this millennial pilgrimage came to a glorious end. It was a unique experience and I loved returning to Santiago de Compostela of which I will write some more in another post. I have some suggestions for those considering the Camino. Keep an eye out for that post!

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Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

– Day 4

– Day 5

– Day 6

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Compostela, cotolaya, España, hiking, Monte de Gozo, photo, Plaza del Obradoiro, Santiago, spain, The Way, travel, trekking

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 6 from Salceda to Lavacolla

5 January 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

Day 6 saw our last full day of our walk along the Camino de Santiago as Day 7 would be a short day. Day 6’s walk took about 5 hours (perhaps about 18 km) not including our lunch stop at Amenal. I felt both excited at getting close to the finish line and also a little bit sad that the end was so close. We left the hotel (and our luggage) in Salceda after a good breakfast and walked a few minutes to get back on the Camino. Along the way, I had been collected the needed stamps on my “credenciales” (pilgrim’s passport); these are required to be able to get the “Compostela” certificate upon arrival at the offices in Santiago de Compostela.

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The pilgrim’s “passport” (credenciales) that you must stamp every day

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Proudly showing my stamped “credenciales” (or pilgrim’s passport)

Sights along the Camino

As usual, our way was a mix of fields of flowers, small forests, farms, and churches. And the ever present signs pointing the way. Here are a few of the images from this day in our trek.

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Beautiful field of yellow

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Hydrangeas were popular along the way

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Just keep following the signs…

Church

Cemetery

An amazing place to stay: Pazo Xan Xordo

Once we got to Lavacolla, a stone’s throw from Santiago’s airport actually, we walked a little bit to get to our lodging for the night: Pazo Xan Xordo. We were wowed by this 17th century home and farm with its own chapel and beautiful gardens. This place was a real dream!

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Pazo Xan Xordo and its front patio

Chapel near the front entrance of Pazo Xan Xordo

The inside of the chapel

It also has a small restaurant but it was not open for dinner so our host dropped us off and picked us back up for dinner in town, where we celebrated being so close to finishing with a great dinner and a dessert I had not had, but seen often, yet: ice cream cake!

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The final dinner on the trail (in Lavacolla)!

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The ice cream cake

A perfect ending to another great day along the Camino!

Yours truly

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Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

– Day 4

– Day 5

…

– Day 7

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Espagne, España, hiking, Lavacolla, photo, Pilgrimage, Santiago, spain, The Way, trail, travel, trekking

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 5 from Boente to Salceda

2 December 2014 by Raul Leave a Comment

Day 5 would have us walk about 19 km (12 miles) in around a 4.5 hour period, leaving Boente to head to our next overnight stop in Salceda. The group left together every morning and, generally, stayed in proximity of each other but a few of us would generally spend part of the morning walking on our own or in silence. Oh, we enjoyed each other a great bit but the Camino is an invitation to pray and ponder, much as it is also very social (I mean, here are all these people walking in one direction, with one goal in mind) – or, at least, as social as one decides to make it.

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My shadow also came along; but I ignored it when I was deep in thought

As usual, the variety in the terrain and passing through small towns and rural areas were a rewarding aspect of the walk. But even though we may be in the middle of nowhere at any given moment, we were not far from a potential place for a “rest stop” or getting a bite to eat.

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Even ruins are charming

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Some places to eat are literally right by the Camino

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One of the many water fountains along the way

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Another eatery right along the Camino

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Pilgrims include bicyclists (whose minimum distance to claim the Camino is longer)

Even ruins are charming

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A house, a granary and hydrangeas

In Salceda, we stayed at one of the nicest places we were to stay at the Albergue Turístico Salceda, a little bit of the trail but no more than a 5-10 minute walk away.

At the end of the day’s hike, it is acceptable to celebrate!

It was a nice day and, after showering, we lounged outdoors resting and relaxing – with a nice bottle of Albariño wine. I’d call Day 5 another successful day on the Camino!

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One happy trekker!

Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

– Day 4

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Boente, Camino, España, photo, Salceda, Santiago, spain, sunny day, The Way, trail, travel, trekker

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 4 from Palas del Rei to Boente

23 November 2014 by Raul 12 Comments

After a great dinner in Palas del Rei and a nice comfortable stay overnight, we left the town on Day 4 to head to Boente, a tiny town and our next overnight. On this day, I would walk 21 km (about 13 miles) in around 5 hours to get to my destination. But we would first make a stop in Mélide to try its famous “pulpo” (octopus). Now, I am not a fan of octopus and similar ugly sea creatures but I had heard about how good the pulpo was in this part of Spain so we took off from Palas del Rei knowing lunch would be in the town of Mélide – I had to try it, I mean, I didn’t come this far to not try the local specialty!

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, we had to have a mid-morning snack (even though the breakfast at the hotel in Palas del Rei was pretty darn good!).

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The pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant) along the Camino is huge!

After eating that monster (OK, I shared…), I had too much energy as my trek roommate, Emory, could attest…

As usual, the path is well marked and consists of a wide range of trail types, some more natural than others.

It is always amazing how there is a symbiosis between the age-old trails and the farms or villages the trails go through. Sometimes you feel bad you are walking right by people’s homes but, it is likely that the trail was there first…

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The scenery can be quite charming!

One of my favorite parts of the walk is running into the old churches in the small towns along the way. I am not sure how active these churches are (I am sure they don’t all have their own priest) but they serve as witnesses to the needs of the pilgrims back when the Camino was truly a journey of faith, not just a modern-day trek.

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One of several churches we passed this day

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Another church on our way

One of the good things about the Camino is the availability of clean, safe water to drink so you don’t have to be buying bottled water or treating water. I filled my bottles at the places I stayed but you can also do refills along the way in any of the public fountains available to the trekkers.

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Water fountain along the trail

Now before I get to the “pulpo”, I have to say I enjoyed the chorizo small plate more than the pulpo. The place we ate at was across a small church along the main street in Mélide. It had long picnic-like tables and a nice mix of locals and pilgrims!

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Chorizo al vino in Mélide

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The guy at the “kitchen” (right by the front door) preparing the pulpo!

Oh, and I have not told you about one of my favorite discoveries along the Camino: the delicious tarta de Santiago (a dense almond cake, sort of)!! Yum. #period

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Tarta de Santiago

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Leaving Mélide after a nice lunch of chorizo, pulpo, bread – and some wine…

The walk that day was long and, as we approached Boente, we could not wait to arrive at our “albergue”. You could say this was the day we stayed at the “least” of our accommodations (not being a hotel or house) but it was perfect. We had reserved two private rooms to share across the 8 of us and it was perfect as we did not have to fight with individual trekkers to get a bunk bed, etc. The albergue was more than adequate and clean, and the dinner they served was delicious. At this point in my life, I don’t want to do a trek where I have to wonder if I will find a spot to sleep on a given town, or whether the one I will find will be not right by the toilet so booking ahead is the way I trek.

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The awesome Albergue Boente!

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The Igrexa Santiago de Boente (right across the albergue)

After a stroll around town and dinner, it was time to end Day 4 and rest for Day 5!

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Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Camino, chuch, hiking, Olympus, outdoors, photo, Santiago, spain, The Way, trails, travel, trekking

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 3 from Portomarín to Palas del Rei

12 October 2014 by Raul 4 Comments

I enjoyed our night in Portomarín as the town had a nice location along the Miño River – and we enjoyed sitting at a bar the night before with a nice wine enjoying the awesome weather. So I was rested and ready for Day 3.

We left the hotel (and our luggage, which was picked up by a service that dropped it off at our next hotel)around 9 AM and went towards the river where we had just a little confusion as to which way to go. We crossed the river and returned to the path that would take us to Palas del Rei.

As usual, we stopped for lunch at a place past Hospital but before Ligonde. It has a very nice outdoor seating area with plenty of shade. The menu was typical of the pilgrim’s menu.

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Menu board with the offerings for the day

In this case, for example, 9 euros would get you a nice burger or lomo (pork) with real French fries accompanied with fried eggs!

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Delicious!!!

I also have to highlight one of my favorite dishes: ensalada mixta which has tomatoes, lettuce, tuna, onions, olives and just goodness!

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Not only colorful and diverse but mighty tasty!

Palas del Rei is a small town of over 3,000 people. We arrived around 4:30 PM after a beautiful, but long walk, with some good climbs.

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Wildlife along the way!

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Dirt path going between farms

Camino de Santiago, Spain, trekking, hiking, path, Palas del Rei, Olympus

Sometimes the Camino overlaps with a modern road

Continuing to walk in rural parts of the Camino

We walked into it and past a church where a funeral service was being held. We approached it from the back and then saw the steps leading down from the church to the street below – a steep walk down.

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San Tirso Church

Our hotel, Hotel Casa Benilde was not far from that point (maybe 50 meters?).

We arrived at the hotel and the manager and his assistant were at the front desk, likely expecting us. They were the nicest folks, so ready to make us feel at home, walking us through every detail – including how they could accommodate our celiac and vegetarians in the group. The hotel lobby was small and, we found out, that was the reason they “scored” low on the star rating system in Spain. We were shocked at the low star rating as this place had excellent customer service, incredible breakfast catering to the dietary needs (all items were labeled gluten-free or not, etc.), the rooms were clean (if small), and the wifi was great in the rooms.

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More about the Camino before Day 3:

– Day 1

– Day 2

And after Day 3:

– Day 4

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, España, food, hiking, Palas del Rei, photo, Pilgrimage, Santiago, spain, travel, trekking

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 2 from Barbadelo to Portomarín

9 September 2014 by Raul Leave a Comment

Finally, the first long day of our Camino started on Day 2 in Barbadelo. Day 1, as I wrote about, was really a “baby” hiking day. All good; ’twas for a good reason (like getting to see O Cebreiro). But I (along with my fellow trekkers) were really ready to tackle the ‘mino.

I enjoyed breakfast with jamón serrano (Spanish ham), cheese, fresh bread, OJ, and my café con leche. I was well-fueled for the day!

As luck would have it, it was raining that morning. And with my cheap rain poncho, I was looking like a Camino fool on a tear!

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Yep, this is me in my rain gear…

Once again, the trails are well-marked with yellow arrows (or the kilometer markers with the seashell). Rarely did these markers fail us!

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The ever-present yellow arrow!

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Art mixed in with function after leaving Barbadelo

The trail is so varied all along the Camino. I loved that because it kept me looking forward to what else we would see. And it kept me paying attention to my surroundings – which made me not take the scenery for granted.

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The Camino’s paths are very diverse.

As lunch time was nearing, we passed Ferreiros, a small hamlet with a cute little church with an accompanying cemetery.

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The Church of Santa Maria in Ferreiros

But all wasn’t pretty landscape and charming little churches. Lunch time was a time for rest, and a time for good food. And, occasionally, a glass of local table wine or a glass of beer (I normally did not drink but a couple of times did have a glass of wine).

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Lunch on the Camino: wine is always near!

After what felt like a very long day, we finally spotted the Miño River, which meant we had arrived at our destination for the day: the town of Portomarín, one of the largest we went through at over 2,00o or so inhabitants. The original town (with a long history with the Camino) is now under water as it was flooded when a dam was built downstream – so the town we stayed in is fairly young. However, it is worth noting that key buildings, like the main church, were moved before the old town was flooded to a new spot in the town.

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The Río Miño – and our destination on other side!

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About to enter Portomarín!

A choice of stairs OR a riverside road to get to our hotel…

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Not that I was tired and trying to hitch a ride to Santiago!

Portomarin, Camino, Santiago, street scene, photo, travel, Canon EOS Rebel

The charming streets of Portomarin

A festival had just taken place and there were some types of branches strewn about the main square and down the main pedestrian street. The main street was cute and colorful and clearly well-lived by the locals.

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The main plaza after a festival

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Colorful balconies and one seemingly bored local

The reminders of the festival make for a beautiful carpet on the main street

The Church of San Juan (San Xoán) was moved, as I said, from the old town to a new spot. It is late Romanesque and feels like a church and a castle at the same time. We went in as we found out it was open to stamp pilgrims’ Camino passports but, unfortunately, there was no Mass scheduled for that evening.

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The moved Church of San Juan

The interior was simple without being plain. I found it very peaceful.

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Main altar of the Church of San Juan – modest

After our first full day of hiking, I was glad to enjoy a nice meal, some vino, and a nice peaceful view from our room at the hotel.

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The end of the day offered this reward from the balcony of my room.

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: bridge, Camino, church, Ferreiros, French Way, Galicia, hiking, Minho, Portomarin, Rio Miño, San Juan, Santiago, spain, trekking

Doing the Camino de Santiago | Day 1 from Sarria to Barbadelo

3 September 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

As I explained in an earlier post, I had limited time for doing the Camino de Santiago as I was also spending time before the trek doing work with a children’s center in Morocco. So, instead of starting on the French side of the Spain-France border as many do to get to Santiago de Compostela, we started in Sarria, west of León, 110 kms from the end point in Santiago de Compostela. How long does the Camino take, then, depends on the approach you take. Just with these two possible routes, the difference is considerable.

Doing the Camino de Santiago starting in Sarria

From my starting point, Sarria, it would take us a week to reach the destination of this pilgrimage. Had we started on the French border, it would have taken about thirty days. That would have required crossing the Pyrenees, not easy I hear. Clearly, any starting point in between, would take somewhere in the middle. Of course, your own pace will also affect how long it takes. I would like to think, our pace was average.

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The first marker of our hike: the 110 kilometer marker!

Before we started doing the Camino de Santiago

The itinerary though had us visiting O Cebreiro and Samos (site of an important monastery) prior to starting the trek. The early-day visits did not leave us much time on day 1 to hike. So we hiked a very short distance that day going from Sarria to Barbadelo, a small town with a very nice small hotel “Casa Barbadelo” where we spent the night. No matter what, we were excited to get going!

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Our group in Sarria, about to start the Camino! Notice the yellow arrows always showing “the” way!

I am certainly glad to have seen O Cebreiro and Samos before we got going. However, it sure made for a long day on the road. Therefore, I was, along with my fellow trekkers, eager to get on the Camino for real. Though the hike that day was very short (1.5 hours or so), it was a good warm-up.

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The ever-present shell of the Camino – you see it anywhere in Europe where the Camino goes through!

The way forward marked by the sign and the yellow arrow (and some graffiti)!

What the trail was like on this first day

The terrain we crossed went by some major highway but it was very rural and lush, crossing farms along the way. It felt isolated enough for one to contemplate life – within and outside each of us. During the trek, we sometimes clung together as we walked, chatting or quietly. Other times, we separated a little bit though always staying within sight of each other. It was not about someone wanting to get there faster or someone being too slow. It was just that sometimes each of us may have wanted to feel a little “aloneness” (not the same as “loneliness” in my book).

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Highway near Paredes; the infrastructure looks modern and well kept

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Very lush lands between Sarria and Barbadelo

The highlight of the short walk that day was crossing a 12th century bridge named the Aspera bridge that crosses the Celeiro River. How many people, pilgrims and locals alike, have trodden its weathered surface over almost a millennium… Humbling thought.

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The Aspera bridge (and the ever-present yellow arrows!)

One of the best parts of doing the Camino de Santiago is what comes when the day ends!

We did enjoy arriving at Casa Barbadelo where we shared three rooms among eight of us.

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Approaching Casa Barbadelo

The rooms at Casa Barbadelo were basic but spacious. In addition, the buildings in Casa Barbadelo were quite new and the hotel grounds were nice. To boot, the hotel even had a pool, though we did not opt in.

The front yard of Casa Barbadelo – note the outdoor seating area on the right

We enjoyed a GREAT meal and lots of good laughs that night accompanied (or triggered?) by one or two glasses of sangria. A perfect ending to a long but short (does that make sense?!), easy first day on the Camino de Santiago!

If you want to see what the next day was like doing the Camino de Santiago, go on to day 2!

For tips on how to pack for this awesome trek, read here.

On a different topic, the work I did before the trek was in Morocco, in the coastal town of Essaouira. It was a Morocco I could not envision. A town I could easily spend months in. Not the usual chaos of Marrakesh or other towns. Check it out!

Pin this image to your planning board if you are thinking of doing the Camino de Santiago. Or just if you want to bookmark this post!

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Barbadelo, Camino, Camino de Santiago, Compostela, doing the Camino, pilgrimage in Spain, Sarria, sarria start, starting the Camino, The Way in Spain

Along the Camino: Charming O Cebreiro

26 August 2014 by Raul Leave a Comment

As I mentioned in a prior post, I started the Camino de Santiago around kilometer 110 in Sarria due to time constraints. However, the group that organized the trek, Trekking for Kids, knew from a prior trek that O Cebreiro was a town we could not missed. So on our way to start our Camino, we made a stop to see O Cebreiro in Lugo, Spain.

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O Cebreiro is just 151 km away from Santiago. The yellow arrow indicates the way to Santiago for the pilgrims.

If you are already on the Camino, you will go one up to the most challenging uphills in all the Camino (not THE most, but one of the most from what I am told) to get to O Cebreiro. But based on what I saw, I would say you would be rewarded by arriving at O Cebreiro.

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The town has a few souvenir shops and eateries: a good stop for a pilgrim!

O Cebreiro is known for its “pallozas” (huts). It is said they belie the pre-Roman history of the town.

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The palloza architecture

Another example of the architecture typical of the town

Even the trash bins espouse the palloza architectural style!

O Cebreiro is also known for a miracle that happened there. The miracle happened in the early 14th century when a peasant struggled on a harsh winter day to get to the town to hear Mass and the Virgin Mary appeared during the consecration of the host and wine. Back in those days, the story of what happened traveled through Europe and even the Catholic Monarchs themselves, Ferdinand and Isabella, did a pilgrimage to the town.

Its current church, Santa María la Real, is not that old at all but it is built on ruins discovered in the 1960s of a pre-Romanesque church. The baptismal font does that from the 9th century so there is something really old in there 🙂

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Looking into the church…

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Close up of the altar

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Side altar at the church

The church is simple and charming but definitely a great place for a wedding!

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Wedding guests enjoying the town as a waiting room

The bride and groom’s ride! Awesome!

As we wrapped up our visit to get to Samos (where we would visit its famous and huge monastery), we saw where the Camino leaves town headed west towards Santiago de Compostela. It only made us more eager to get our show on the road at Sarria, our departure point. But first, Samos!

Pilgrims leaving O Cebreiro to continue their Camino… (Note the yellow arrow on the building.) Buen Camino!

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Lugo, O Cebreiro, Olympus, palloza, photo, Santa Maria la Real, Santiago, spain, travel, yellow arrow

Another Pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago

12 August 2014 by Raul 3 Comments

The Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, is an ancient pilgrimage indeed with a timeline of over 1,000 years. Pilgrims from all over Europe would come from far and near to visit the place where St. James (or Santiago) is buried: under the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain (Galicia, to be more precise). I became another pilgrim on the Camino….

Camino, Santiago, St. James, The Way, pilgrimage, Europe, routes, travel, trekking, journey — A map in O Cebreiro showing the many routes pilgrims took from all over Europe to get to NW Spain

In modern days, though, not all who “do” the Camino are necessarily doing it for spiritual reasons but I would find hard to believe that most don’t get something spiritual out of the sacrifice and effort doing the Camino requires.

The Camino is a joy not only for the experience of trekking these ancient “ways”. I have to admit that the social and culinary were also part of my Camino.

croqueta, food, Spain, Camino, foodporn, foodie, delicious, travel, photo — One of my favorites from my childhood re-encountered in the Camino: croquetas!

I will aim to share about the experience in a couple of different ways in this and upcoming posts:

The first way will be to simply share what everyday was like using photographs and other thoughts – whether you ever plan to or want to do it.
The second will be by sharing what I did to prepare and do the Camino, in case you are yourself hoping to, or actually planning to, do the Camino.

Why I went

I first learned more about the Camino when I met a co-worker back in 2003 who had just done the Camino from St. Jean Pied de Port – so about 30 days’ worth of trekking (close to 800km or 500 miles). It all sounded hard and just too much time. Over the years, as we became good friends, I enjoyed hearing stories about what the Camino was like and the friendships he struck along the way. It made me curious about the Camino though I never thought I would want to “walk” for 30 days.

Years later, as I got more into trekking/hiking, I started thinking that I -some day- would want to do it (or part of it, to be more precise). Watching the movie “The Way” helped inspire me but not tons more. The coup de grace was when an organization I do treks with, Trekking for Kids, announced they would do a trek to do the Camino in the summer of 2014. That sealed the deal. Combining both my desire to do the Camino with the mission of Trekking for Kids (to improve the lives of orphaned and at-risk children around the world) was the perfect reason to go.

Trekking for Kids, trek, Bayti Centre, voluntourism, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, photo — The group of trekkers and the children and staff of the Bayti Centre in Essaouira

How we did the Camino de Santiago

The Trekking for Kids trek mixed a few days at a center for at-risk children in Essaouira, Morocco, called Bayti Centre, followed by seven days on the Camino (read more about our time at the Bayti Centre here). Because the overall trek had to be kept to less than two weeks, the starting point of the Camino had to be picked such that we could do the minimum required distance (100km for those walking; 200km for those cycling) to be able to get the “compostela” (or the certificate issued in Santiago de Compostela that validates that you did the Camino) yet stay within the desired overall trip duration. In addition, it had to allow for the travel day or two between Morocco and the start of the hike.

The preferred route was the traditional Camino Francés which is sort of parallel to the northern coast of Spain but further inland. It is likely the most popular route of all though I wonder how the other routes are (and secretly hope I can check out some day!).

This meant we would need to start the hike at the last possible point we could and still meet the minimum walking requirements: the town of Sarria, which meant we would do more than the 100km minimum (at least, 110km). There were, however, a couple of important towns right before Sarria that were worth seeing (O Cebreiro and Samos), yet we did not have time to hike through them (would have required one or two more hiking days) – so the itinerary included driving through these towns before being dropped off on the trailhead from which our hike would start.

Our Camino route

Our hiking itinerary was as follows (click on the Day to read the post for that day!):

Day 1: Begin at Sarria. After a very short (“warm-up”) hike, we would overnight at Barbadelo.
Day 2: From Barbadelo to Portomarín
Day 3: From Portomarín to Palas del Rei
Day 4: From Palas del Rei to Boente
Day 5: From Boente to Salceda
Day 6: From Salceda to Lavacolla
Day 7: From Lavacolla to Santiago.

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The map that follows highlights in a blue oval the town of Sarria, our starting point (immediately to the right, you will see Samos; further to the right, you will notice O Cebreiro). The purple line that connects the blue oval to Santiago de Compostela to the west (left, on the map) is the route of our itinerary.

On to Day 1!

(You may want to subscribe to this blog so you receive an email when each article is posted. Don’t worry, this is no more than three times a week so it is only three emails from ilivetotravel on a given week!)

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain Tagged With: Camino, Compostela, discovery, Europe, Galicia, hiking, pilgrim, Pilgrimage, Santiago, spain, spiritual, St James, trek, trekking, Way

Summer Vacation Is Almost Here!

22 May 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

This summer, I finally get to take a real vacation, not just a couple of days of here or there. Actually, I get to take TWO real vacations! The two vacations came about differently and it was certainly hard to plan them as I did not control when one of them took place and the other had to be coordinated with other people’s schedule.

The great cold and outworldly: Iceland

The first vacation will be to Iceland, my first time visiting this unique land sitting astride an incredibly active piece of Earth (who remembers the volcano-whose-name-cannot-be-said-because-it-is-too-hard?). Friends of mine were planning to go and invited me to come along with them and their two young daughters. One of the parents has an Icelandic ancestor and has been doing research so part of the trip will be to visit the rural areas of her ancestors. This is likely unlike what the normal tourist goes to do in Iceland and that is precisely what I think makes it a great opportunity for me to travel. Of course, we will try to hit the major unique features of the island that make a visit there so neat (waterfalls, volcanoes, hot springs, fjords).

Upon landing, we plan to hit the Blue Lagoon hoping it will help some with jetlag (we have a 6-hr layover in JFK… remember, with two young girls aged 4 and 7…). We will then spend some days anchored in Reykjavik but hopefully doing the Golden Circle and perhaps a day trip to the south part of the island.

After those three days we will drive clockwise on the ring road to the town of Akureyri. We have rented a house across the “bay” from it with spectacular views. We already see ourselves in the hot tub with a bottle of wine soaking in the late Icelandic summer day… We will use this as a base to explore the northern part of the island and the area where my friend’s ancestors lived in.

Trekking with a purpose: the Camino de Santiago and Morocco

Right after returning from Iceland, I will go on the second vacation of my summer. This one is a special one as I will be doing 7 days of the Camino de Santiago with Trekking for Kids in order to help street and at-risk children in Morocco (I went with this organization to hike in Romania and climb Mt. Kilimanjaro).

The trip will begin by going to Morocco and spending a few days at the center that we will fundraise for (each trekker raises money that will go 100% to the projects we will fund at the center). I have never been to Morocco and though I will not be officially “touristing,” I like that I will experience some of Morocco in such a unique way. We will then fly to Madrid and train it to León from which we will begin our trek in the Camino. I have wanted to do the Camino ever since a friend did it many years ago (though I am not sure I would want to do the route starting at the Pyrenees). So this trek is perfect as it will be about 7 days’ worth of walking. A good bit of that walking will be in the area of Galicia where some of my ancestors come from so walking through it will be special in that way for me.

I have been to Santiago de Compostela before but look forward to the experience of arriving there by foot, as many have done since the Middle Ages, and getting my “Compostela.”

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I am very much looking forward to my vacations, long overdue. One thing I will say before I conclude here is to urge you to consider doing a trek with Trekking for Kids – it will be a unique experience as the fact that many trekkers (like me) keep returning for other treks! Check out the upcoming treks to Kilimanjaro, Jordan, and Patagonia here.