Exploring the Atacama Desert – Getting to San Pedro de Atacama

Last weekend, I got to travel on the Chilean holiday to San Pedro de Atacama to explore the desert around it and its sights.  The flight from Santiago, bought in Chile, was under $250 and I could have gotten it cheaper had I bought it earlier.  Two co-workers were planning to travel with me but one “se rajó” so only two of us ended up going.

To get to San Pedro, we flew to Calama, a mining town, I believe sort of halfway between San Pedro and the coast (where Antofagasta is).  The airport is one of those small nice airports we all dream of flying in and out of but that we don’t want to live close to as it would offer few direct flights…  A $9 bus ride each way based on round trip purchase and one hour plus bus ride and we were in front of our hotel.

Hotels in San Pedro can be quite pricey, relatively speaking and especially on a holiday weekend.  However, I found Casa Don Tomás which at $106/night was quite reasonably priced.  The rooms were basic (no TV) but were clean and adequate with good sized bathroom.  Having no TV was actually quite nice as we had a few early, early mornings so not having TV prevented me being temped to watch it when I went to bed…  The hotel included breakfast but, also, they would make you a take-away breakfast for mornings when one woke up too early to go off and explore.  They also served dinner but I did not try it.  I did try their happy hour drinks and those were a good deal at 2 for 1…  From the hotel, we walked about 5 mins on a residential street to reach Caracoles, the main street in San Pedro.

We were advised to not rent a car and just shop around the various local touring agencies to arrange our trips to the main sights in the area.  This was really good advice for a number of reasons including the routes are not all properly signed and it would have been easy to get lost.  Also, not all the roads are in good conditions so someone more experienced in those roads was going to have an easier time of going around.  I did enjoy getting to meet other travelers along the way so that was another plus of going on these tours which ranged from 10 to 20 people in size.  We used the NOMADE agency whose owner, Mauricio, was very attentive to detail and on time.

San Pedro as a town has few of its own attractions but it is a perfect base  for a large number of places to go see and experience.  While Calama is a larger town with probably more options in terms of accommodation, San Pedro likely has more charm, more of a tourist crowd (in the good sense of that term), and is closer to the places to go see which shaves off a good deal of time.

Main Street San Pedro de Atacama, Chile - gateway to the desert

Main Street San Pedro (with restaurants, shops, tour agents)

There are some really good restaurants intown so just walk up and down the street and check them out.  One even has an inner courtyard with a bonfire going on at night!

More about San Pedro de Atacama:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_de_Atacama

My Return to Santiago Post-Earthquake

I left Santiago the Thursday before the incredible events of that Saturday morning in late February 2010.  As I woke up that Saturday morning at home, I looked at my Blackberry and I had a news alert about an 8.8 earthquake in Chile.  My heart stopped.  I had just left there.  I have friends and co-workers there.  Immediately I turned on the TV to hear about what had happened.  Was Santiago heavily impacted?  Were my friends OK?  I also set up shop with my laptop getting Chilean local TV (thank you Internet).  Between the US-based news network and the local Chilean one on my PC, I had a good amount of info coming in.  I sat like that for the majority of that Saturday taking every bit of info in.  (I was exhausted and over-stimulated by the end of the day.)

I slowly gathered that Santiago had mostly been spared, though heavily shaken.  I learned about the destruction in Concepción, Talcahuano and other places that I have not visited.  I heard about the tsunami and I heard the news clip of the Chilean President saying “there was no tsunami concerns” (this info she was given, she didn’t make it up).  Eventually, I finally began to hear from friends and co-workers.  Everyone seemed to be fine.  But, in a way, they were not.  Most seemed very shaken (figuratively).  Aftershocks continued to happen, some of them didn’t feel safe in the buildings they were at, water and power cuts were going on, etc.

My ex-pat co-workers finally were gotten out of the country a few days later via a chartered flight to Buenos Aires.  The stories of the shaking they experienced that night were pretty incredible and scary.  The shaking lasted anywhere between 3 and 4 minutes.  Some could not stay standing up during it.  The worst, I am told, was the noise while the shaking was happening…

So, after some weeks of travel freeze, we were allowed to go back to Chile by our company.  I wanted to go and see everyone but I was not sure how I would feel when aftershocks occurred.  We landed in Santiago and, as expected, the jetway was not operable so we deplaned the old-fashioned way and were taken by bus to the immigration area.  You could see the damage to the false ceiling and things like that.  Once we cleared customs, we had to walk to a tent area on the parking lot to get to the taxi area.  The taxi area had been moved partly due to the collapse of a pedestrian bridge in the departures area right above where taxis normally wait on line for arrivals.

Driving into the city to go to the hotel, I did not notice damage.  Once at the hotel, some damage was still in evidence in the atrium glass ceiling.  Upon closer inspection I could see small cracks in different parts of the building.  But, it did not seem there had been much damage (I should say, by the time I arrived).  Once I went towards the city center, where the offices are, the damage was more visible as that is an older part of town that probably predates building codes that kept many Chileans alive through the earthquake and the many subsequent aftershocks.  A lot of the plaster outside of buildings had cracked or fallen, including in our own building.  In some cases, walls bulged or cracked.  At work, the cracks were quite evident all through the building.  Saddest of all was seeing the damage to the church on the Plaza Yungay near our favorite “sanguïchería” (Chilean-style sandwich sandwich shop).  The cracks are everywhere and especially near the base of the belltower.  It is not a magnificent church, just an old local church that I find charming.

Quake Damage near Work

In the 2 weeks I spent there I felt one aftershock, though there had been a few.  They were all small so probably the reason I didn’t feel them – but the locals did.  Invariably at different moments, people would ask “did you feel it?”  And I would go “feel what?”  “La réplica” (the aftershock).  The only one I felt (a reasonable 4.5) I felt only because a co-worker I was with said “can you feel it?  it is shaking” as he pointed as his computer flat-screen monitor.  I told him “that’s because I am writing on your desk and moving it some”.  He then pointed to the window blinds, surely not impacted by my writing movements, and yes, they were moving.  It lasted like 30 seconds and was not much of anything but it was a reminder, once more, of the recent events.  I realized that the locals having gone through that incredible earthquake have now a heightened sensitivity that I, not having been there, do not have.  The stories of the weeks after the earthquake were about the constant aftershocks, many of them not trivial, like the one I felt.  I remember being in calls with folks in Chile in the 3 weeks after the quake and at random times, they would go “hold on, it is shaking”.  Some times they would resume talking, sometimes they would say, “we are leaving the room, it is a strong one”.

I left Chile yesterday.  Firstly, I hope Chile is spared more quakes other than the small aftershocks.  Actually, I hope they are spared even those.  They have had enough.  Secondly, I hope Chileans recognize that their seriousness about code and having responsible governments has paid off in saved lives, in lower damage and repairs needed, and it mental peace about their safety.  Thirdly, I am glad I did not go through the 8.8 as I don’t know how I would have handled it.  And finally, I can’t wait to get back to such an awesome place and hope that those who have not been to Chile and explored its beauty still try do so and don’t let fear of tremors keep them from going…

What Makes All the Difference on a Business Trip…

I am sitting on the 22nd floor of my hotel room in Santiago wanting to catch up on my writing and talk about my trip to Valparaiso, Chile, catch up on earthquake impacts to a trip to the lake district, and other discoveries about Santiago.  But I’m too distracted.  Too distracted with work.  With getting to the U.S. for most weekends and hurrying through keeping in touch with those I love back home.  With planning a vacation with a cousin to Bulgaria and Denmark with a 1-day trip to say hi to a friend in Sweden.

But what is compelling me to sit in front of the PC for yet another 1/2 hour is wanting to talk about those people who are strangers to you for the most part but who make your time away from home -at a hotel in another city other than your home- get as close to “real” as you get when on business trips.

I normally haven’t had my own access to the “special” lounge at my regular Santiago hotel (Marriott) but get access normally by going with colleagues who do have access.  Of course, after this week, I get access on my own right because of reaching the 50 stays in one calendar year.  Anyway, through past visits, we have met some of the staff at this special lounge.  Some are strict about the rules that say at 830 PM the wine and other liquor is retired from access.  And then there are those employees who seem to get that we all don’t just come to another country on business because we work 9 to 5 and have the luxury to get back to the hotel between 630-830PM to enjoy the special treats…

Those employees who realize that the key to great customer service is about making us, the weary travelers, have a sense that we can get that one (or two…) free glasses of wine at a lounge so we can sorta feel maybe we could be at home.  Don’t get me wrong, I still have sat in the lobby and paid for drinks when able to go to the special lounge at the “right” hours – the scene at the lobby can be quite interesting.  So I am not just after a free drink or two or three or…  But going to the lounge does also give you contact with other human beings who recognize you and through the small talk make you feel you are not just a stranger, a number, a credit card at this hotel.

So, to these folks I say, salud.  You are doing an awesome job and I hope your employer, Marriott, realizes that you are doing more to retain my loyalty than even the ability to use my points gets them.  Emilio, Fernando, Katherine, Baruk:  may your employer realize the value you are to them and I wish you the best.  Thanks for helping us feel not totally away from a place like home. You guys are piola.

Santiago Visit Continues – Lucky Me

So, I came back to Santiago after 18 yrs.  That was 3 weeks ago.  I went to the US and then I turned right around to come down to Chile!  Crazy?  Heck, no.  I don’t mind coming to this town and country!  I am traveling here for business but seldom is business travel the vehicle to get back to a place I want to keep coming back to…

On the first trip, I traveled 3 hours south of Santiago to an area right outside of the town of Curicó.  Why Curicó?  Well, my friend’s son was competing in the national championship of Chilean motocross, of course!  I have never been to a motocross race before and it was definitely a fun event to be at.  But the best part was the drive down there with the Andes to my left and the lesser range of mountains to my right.  The views were great.  However, though I stayed in the shade most of the time, I got quite sunburnt unintentionally.  One has to remember that the sun here hits harder!

Mountain biking in Curico, Chile

That first week, most of my free time was spent with fellow co-workers on the same trip as me.  But I did get to sample two great local restaurants, one in Bellavista and the other, well, in a part of town whose name I can’t remember.  The former was a seafood place in a very artsy-bohemian part of town named Bellavista.  Pablo Neruda’s (former!) home is located there.  Also, that is the place where you go to go up Cerro Santa Lucía for great city views (on the less-smoggy days…).  Bellavista is practically littered with cheap bars and eateries where lots of young people hang out as well as better dineries and an area called Patio Bellavista with good shopping and more places to eat and have a drink.  Azul Profundo, the name of the restaurant on Constitución 111, was simply outstanding.  The seafood, as pretty much anywhere here, is quite fresh.  http://www.flip360.cl/ver_local.php?id=1035&ver=panorama&idPanorama=1035&categoria=51

Azul Profundo restaurant in Barrio Bellavista, Santiago, Chile

I then was taken another night to a Peruvian restaurant called La Mar (actually, a ¨cevichería”) on Nueva Costanera (http://www.biggi.cl/4DCGI/Noticia466).  It seems Peruvian restaurants are the bomb these days not sure if because more Peruvians live here or just because.  This was a classy place with very cleverly designed indoor and outdoor seating areas.  You can go there for sure and sit outside and people-watch (both in the restaurant and also those who walk down the streets).  It is located in a very nice residential neighborhood and I highly recommend their food!

I am staying at the local Marriott (OK, this is not a backpacking it kind of trip! it is a beautiful building!  As I was looking for a pic of the 40-story hotel, I found a Spanish wikipedia entry that says the building can stand an 8.0 earthquake – I will sleep well tonight!) where 3 weeks before I came, a small bomb was found and detonated outside.  It is a little weird because I don’t associate Chile with crime like that.  So, I remain undisturbed about it.  The hotel has a good sitting area downstairs where in the evening between 7 and 9 PM they have happy hour with free hors d’oeuvres.  I have once or twice opted to go for pisco sours (yes, more than 1!!) and these hors d’oeuvres for dinner.  Don’t get me wrong, there is FINE dining in this city for sure.  But after nights of going out, it is nice to just camp.  The added bonus is that it seems that locals like to come to this happy hour so you get to be with locals though you are at the hotel.  I have noticed that every night there are several groups of local women who apparently choose to meet here to have a night out at one of the nice hotels in town.  I do not exaggerate, these women look like upper class folks who meet here for kicks (it isn’t a cheap place so my observation is likely not off the mark).

HotelMarriott.jpg

Next to the hotel there is a very nice mall called Parque Arauco.  It has the usual types of stores but also a great outdoor area with many restaurants.  El Otro Sitio, a Peruvian (!) restaurant, was quite good and reasonable in terms of price.  In these Peruvian restaurants, ceviche is typically the draw, as only Peruvians can make it – phenomenal stuff!

Alright, I intend to think about what these two quick back-to-back trips have meant to me and I have to say that the main conclusion is how awesome it is that today I feel as strongly as I did 18 yrs ago that I love this city and this country.

Fast Forward Santiago, Really Fast: from 1991 to 2009

I arrived in Santiago de Chile this morning to a different airport and entrance fees than in 1991.  Why charge an entrance fee of $132 is beyond me (yeah, yeah reciprocity; that’s what you call it when you don’t want to admit you are just as capitalistic as everyone else…).  And why not have it a surcharge on the price of the plane ticket and make me stand in another line after landing is WAY beyond me.  I thought Chile was more modern than that.  Maybe it is indeed a piece of Europe in South America after all…  After standing in line for about 20 minutes, at least I was able to use a credit card to pay – of course, in the line I had to listen to cheery, chatty tourists from my own country yap away when all I wanted was silence to slowly wake up (no coffee in me yet…).  [Note, Jan 2018:  The reciprocity fee no longer exists!]

It was neat to see a friend I had not seen in about 15 years who then drove me into the city proper on a highway I did not recognize, part of it going under the river.  We didn’t have to go through the city streets in order to make it to the opposite end of town where I used to live the 3 months I lived in Santiago way back or where he now lives.  A nice highway running by the river is a welcome change.  And, boy, was there change in store!  While Santiago was to me quite livable a city back in 1991 and not lacking in terms of places to go, eat, and shop, today’s Santiago is a much more modern and livable place than I remember.  Fast forward indeed 18 years!

I barely recognized parts of town that used to be my stomping grounds.  Yes, that is to be expected after 18 years but there was so little that actually was like I remembered to leave me floored.  Parts of town like Sanhattan and El Bosque are way more developed than they used to be by the building of centers of business.  Parque Arauco is similar inside but a whole new invention outside (though I recognize the McD’s I used to eat at after playing racquetball!).

Busy Av. Providencia was barely recognizable too!  Storefronts and restaurants of course change even just a few years apart.  A pedestrian alley here and a residential street there did look very familiar but so much has changed…   The building I used to work in is there (the company is not), the building I used to live in is there (though no longer an apart-hotel).  Sections of town like Bellavista or Calle Suecia are still there and still retain an air of what I remembered – whew!

All in all, the residential areas that I used to know still have that quiet air around them.  The people are still interesting but not obnoxious.  After eating at Eladio‘s in Calle Pio Nono in Bellavista, I can say the food is:  still excellent.   And after a good bottle, I can say the wine: still good.  I still would not mind living here after all this growth and change!

But the one constant that truly tells me I have come back is the mountains at the edge of the city.  Those mountains with the snowcapped tops that used to greet me every morning when I would wake up are still there and like will be there way after I am gone:  the Andes.  I have come “home” after all.

Back to Chile – What I Hope to Enjoy Again

It has been a while since I write on the blog.  It has been a busy time as I have been on job search.  But, that period is coming to an end and, lo and behold, my next job will start with a business trip to Chile.

Lo and behold for many reasons.  One, though the job is in the States, my first day will take place visiting the Chilean operations of the company.  Two, I could only have dreamed that my next job had an international angle to it but it turns out it produces that angle from the get-go.  And three, I worked in Chile back in 1991 greatly enjoying the place, the lifestyle, and the people and, yet, I never got to go back (I did try).  It has been a long 18 years and I finally get to fulfill the desire to go back.  Will El Tallarin Gordo still serve as good a meal as it did back then (I do know it exists still thanks to the Internet)?  Does Pollo al Coñac still exist in Lo Barnechea?  Will I get to visit Los Dominicos again to make some purchases of Chilean arts and crafts?  Does the Pizza Hut near the offices where I worked still exist?  Does Coppola still serve wonderful ice cream?  (notice most of these are about food!)

I do not have to wonder about re-connecting with my friends as we managed to re-connect after that odd period between 1991 and the late 90s bridging over the period when people did not have emails or laptops to the new highly connected world of today with email, Facebook, Skype, etc.  I will get to see my friends and, by now, their kids.  I also hope to do at least a quick drive-about the old hangouts for memories’ sake.  Always healthy for me. 

I do expect Santiago to be totally transformed.  I was there in the aftermath of Pinochet as Chile was beginning to come of age after the close of 2 decades of Pinochet.  Chile was under a construction boom at the  time and I hear that boom kept on going years after I left.  What was new then (e.g., the Hyatt) will be rather old by now.

I long to eat palta York.  Drink a Chilean pisco sour.  Eat one of those Chilean sandwiches whose main ingredient is mayonnaise, then the bread, and then a filet of pork.  Oh, and Chilean wine, of course.  I long to see the amazing Andes, which greeted me every morning when I woke up as my bedroom faced these magnificent mountains and I left my curtains open at night so I could have them be the first thing I saw every morning…

With these random thoughts I wrap up this entry.  I will certainly write more once I am there and share my observations and reflections of a city likely transformed since I last saw it.  Yet, I hope I will feel as if I were going back home after a long exile…

If anyone has recommendations of good places to eat these days from hole-in-the-walls to nicer places, please share.  Though I won’t be able to spend time sightseeing per se, drop your suggestions on that too as it may help others!  Vamos po’!

Traveling in Southern Chile – Pucón

Back when I lived in Chile in 1991, we made a holiday weekend trip to Pucón.  We wanted to explore the south a little further and one of our colleagues’ sister had a house in Pucón so my colleague knew the area well.  So 9 of us rented a van and met my colleague and his girlfriend down in Pucón…  It was going to be a great weekend.!

Getting to Pucón

We drove the Panamerican Highway for what seems like 10 hours to get to Pucón.  I would imagine the Panamerican Highway has been expanded some since 1991 but it seemed a less-than-ideal highway since it is the sole main roadway traversing the length of the country.  Therefore, it is the way for things and people to be transported across the country.  It was very crowded and I pitied the guy who was driving (not sure how he ended up with the assignment out of the 9 of us).  For those of us not driving, we were split into 2 camps:  those who smoked and those who did not.  This being 1991 in Chile and 7 out of the 9 being Argentinians, smoking seemed a very acceptable thing to do in a van all night long.  The 2 of us Americans cracked open a window to get fresher air to complaints of it being too cold – tough…  The stop for dinner in Temuco was wonderful for the break and the food (to this day I remember I had corvina a la vizcaina – a rare fish eater back then, this dish totally won me over to eating fish!.

Then to Enjoy Pucón…

We had, based on our friend’s recommendation, booked rooms at a local lakeside hotel on the shores of Lake Villarica (Hotel del Parque, I think) and close the volcano of the same name.  What a FANTASTIC setting.  We did go up the volcano which had ski slopes (closed at the time).  Not quite Steamboat Springs or Portillo but I am sure fun nevertheless.

300px-pucon-y-su-volcanIn Pucón, besides fantastic local dishes we enjoyed the landscape, very green and with mountains nearby.  Though it was cold enough to be weating a sweater (this was early November so the end of the spring), we decided it would be a fun idea to go whitewater rafting down the Trancura River (around a level 3.5/4).  Only 1 person had whitewater rafted before and not there.  WOW!  That water was freaking cold!!  Straight down from the peaks of the Andes!  It gave us an incredible incentive to remain focused on not turning over or falling into the water.  Our Argentinian friends were very singing-oriented and made up songs as we went down the river – fun crowd to hang with!

Though it was maybe too long a distance for a 3-day weekend, we thoroughly enjoyed yourselves with fun company and a fantastic setting in the Chilean countryside.  I can´t wait to return there some day.

It has been many years since this visit.  Perhaps someone can share other information about Pucón and the neighboring towns?

My Short Life in Santiago, Chile

Getting to live in a country other than your own is always a great learning experience and a great way to expand how we understand how different and how similar human being can be.  This entry is more of a trip down memory lane than a travel journal:  talking about my 3 short months living in Santiago, Chile while on assignment for work there.  It was a prolonged visit that made me feel I was a true resident of the city.

Santiago in 1991 was not as developed as it is now; or as I heard it was developed even 10 years ago for that matter.  But it was a city that was bustling with business and construction back then as it re-entered into full-fledged democracy.

I lived in a nice area of town called Providencia where we had been found accommodations for our stay in an “apart-hotel” near Las Condes.  It was a good part of town for us as it had many conveniences nearby and we could walk to work (a 15 minute walk).

Traveling before Cell Phones Were Common…

In 1991, some things about living abroad were not as easy as they are today.  For instance, we had no cell phones (we had one in the office but it was one of those you installed in a car except we had it on top of a table in our conference room; our client was one of the two mobile phone companies in town).  ATMs were not in use back then there (at least those connected to the international networks) so we had to trek to el Centro to go to the local Amex office to have them withdraw money from our bank accounts back in the U.S. and then exchange it for us into local currency.  I remember the lunch hour treks downtown and all that time spent.  One forgets how convenient ATMs are since we are used to them!  Keeping up with family and friends back home meant regular mail (now we call it “snail mail” but back then there was nothing to compare it to) or $2+ per minute phone calls.

OK, Now to Food…

In Santiago, I had fantastic meals.  It has been too long and 1. memory fails and 2. places may no longer exist or be as good.  I clearly recall enjoying a restaurant called El Tallarin Gordo [good eats] in Bellavista (a bohemian type of neighborhood)  (Spanish link: http://restoranteltallaringordo.blogspot.com/2007/05/el-tallarin-gordo.html).  Another one, called Pollo al Cognac [good eats], served a dish of the same name that was fantastic (it was located in Lo Barnechea).  Finally, a more elegant one we enjoyed (on account only!) was Chez Louis.  We also used to go for drinks and lesser meals near the Calle Suecia.  I don’t recall if all the places we went for dancing and hanging out were there but Calle Suecia was at least a frequent place for happy hours.  Back then, salsa was becoming in vogue and I remember being in demand for being Caribbean and able to fake my way through a salsa song… (I really don’t dance it well at all!)

Things We Did…  Besides Work, That Is

As far as sightseeing and the like, the downtown area had very interesting architecture.  The Cerro Santa Lucia also merited a visit.  View from the CerroWe did trek beyond to the Maipo Canyon for a picnic and good food.  Further afield, Viña del Mar was close enough to Santiago for day visits during the weekend, choosing a seaside restaurant to sit in for a few hours while enjoying the food, the people, the view, and perhaps a good book (and a glass of beer or two or three).  Also, wine country is not far from Santiago and is certainly an enjoyable activity (at least for me!).  Unfortunately, back then I was too young and not too savvy about my wine tastes.  There were also a nice beach we liked south of Valparaíso, called Algarrobos, except that the water was FRIGID.  Finally, skiing is only 2 hours away from the city.  I arrived in Chile just as the ski slopes closed but still got to visit Portillo which had an excellent setting up in the Andes.

Being that we were residents for 3 months (I was there with another colleague from the US and a few Argentinians colleagues), we also took to more routine activities like playing racquetball at the local, public “clubs” where you paid a nominal fee for a booked court; or mountain biking in nearby parks.

I would not call Santiago a place one goes for tourism as a destination like Paris, London, etc. (though it can be part of a bigger trip and is, certainly, a great starting point for exploring the wonderful country that is Chile) but it is one of those places where I would enjoying living in again.

Anyone out there have ideas on what is more current in Santiago than my comments dating from 1991?

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