Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp.  I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great.  I think the group as a whole liked it a lot.  Good start to our time in Namche!  (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this.  I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner.  I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp.  It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style.  Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight!  (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…).  Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy, ilivetotravel

View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain).  We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day.  The short hike was  steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point.  There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy, Ama Dablam

At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established.  It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

Sherpa Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, EBC, Everest, trekking, Himalayas

Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, EBC, Everest, trekking, Himalayas

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Culture Museum

Namche Bazaar, architecture, design, Tibetan, window, colorful, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

dung, Himalayas, Everest, trekking, photo, museum

Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte.  Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

View from the lodge’s dining room

————————————————

Read on:  Day 4 – To my turning point: Deboche

 

Hiking in Nepal: On the Way to Namche Bazaar! (Day 2)

On Day 2, we left our teahouse in the tiny spot of Tok Tok (9,000  ft / 2,800 m) at around 8:45AM to head, following the route to Everest Base Camp, to Namche Bazaar, a rather bigger town than most in the area (actually, THE biggest).  This would have us climb over 2,000 ft in the last 2.5 hours of the hike that day, a rather ambitious and challenging effort (except for the super fit and those used to the altitude, perhaps – I fell under neither success category…).

Leaving our spot in Tok Tok, we stood for a group photo as one of the trekkers was not continuing beyond Tok Tok.

Tok Tok, trekkers, Everest Base Camp, Nepal, Himalayas, trekking

Group photo!

Nepal, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, Tok Tok, bridge, river, Everest Base Camp

Our first bridge of the day was right outside the teahouse – watch out for the pack animals!

On the trail to Everest Base Camp…

Soon thereafter, off we went walking on terrain that was becoming familiar to us:  rocks, dirt, steps, pack animals, farms, debris from the earthquake, reconstruction, and the river.  It is a rugged but peaceful terrain; except when the pack animals come – at that point you make a quick move towards the inside of the trail, not the side facing the steep dropoff!  On this day, we would cross the river four times if memory serves me right.

Everest Base Camp, trail,trek, trekking, terrain, hiking, Nepal, Himalayas, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Steep climbs every day!

Everest Base Camp, trek, trekking, terrain, hiking, Nepal, Himalayas, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Pack animals: these were carrying a very light load

Everest Base Camp, trail,trek, trekking, terrain, hiking, Nepal, Himalayas, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Typical stop for trekkers

Entering the Sagarmatha National Park

Later that morning, we officially entered the Sagarmatha National Park (which is the park where Mt. Everest sits) via the Jorsalle gate (which is right outside of Monju on the way to Jorsalle).  There was signage offering good advice for trekkers in dealing with acute mountain sickness (there are always those who are unprepared…).  More importantly we passed a traditional kani gate which incorporates prayer wheels and colorful paintings on the walls and ceilings.  This gate marks our entrance in the sacred valley of the Sherpa (a term that refers to an ethnic group, not a job, as we learned…):  the Khumbu.  I loved the rules suggested to those who enter the valley (see photo).

kani gate, Jorsalle gate, Sagarmatha, National Park, Nepal, Everest Base Camp, tradition, Buddhist, sacred valley, Khumbu

The kani gate marking the entrance to the sacred valley

Sagarmatha, Kani gate, Jorsalle, Nepal, Himalayas, Buddhist painting, art, color, photo, travel, Olympus

Ceiling painting

Sagarmatha, Kani gate, Jorsalle, Nepal, Himalayas, Buddhist painting, art, color, photo, travel, Olympus

Wall painting and the ever-present prayer wheels at the kani gate

Acute mountain sickness, Nepal, Sagarmatha, warning sign

Warnings about acute mountain sickness

Sagarmatha, National Park, Nepal, kani gate, Jorsalle, park rules, travel

Follow these rules!

Breaks from the trail:  tea and food

While the actual walk is rewarding despite the challenging parts, one of my favorite moments is when we stop 🙂  Yes, it is about getting a break from the effort.  But it is also about the camaraderie over that cup of tea, lemon or mint with the latter being my favorite.  As we all have different paces, non-walking time is when we get to share with those we don’t keep up pace with (or those who can’t slow down easily!).  After tackling the first mile (which was not a walk in the park), we made a restroom stop at Benkar but did not even sit-  this was not our morning break for tea.

Everest Base Camp, trail,trek, trekking, terrain, hiking, Nepal, Himalayas, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Brief stop to use the ‘facilities’ and take a snack out

Everest Base Camp, trail,trek, trekking, terrain, hiking, Nepal, Himalayas, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Resuming our hike with a nice downhill

So we trudged along and, after we entered the Sagarmatha NP, we later hit our morning break at Monju (or Monzo) at a place that I would stop at on the way back to Lukla.  The outdoor terrace was very spacious and comfortable (perhaps because we were the only ‘crowd’ there) and the temperature was great so we enjoyed sitting in the terrace sipping our tea!

Everest Base Camp, trail, route, Monju, Monzo, Nepal, Himalayas, Trekking for Kids, travel, outdoors, adventure, Olympus

Tea time in Monju!

And then we proceeded to Jorsalle where, not 30 minutes later, we would have lunch outdoors by the river at a teahouse there.  It was a great stopping point right by the trail (as most are).  It was a good break before the final push, and I mean PUSH, to Namche Bazaar – we would be starting a serious vertical climb over a rather short horizontal distance.  Heaven help me!  We left our lunch ‘resting place’ at around 1 PM.

Jorsalle, Khumbu, Nepal, Himalayas, Everest Base Camp, trekking, trail, Dudh Koshi, river

Approaching Jorsalle, our lunch ‘town’

Jorsalle, Khumbu, Nepal, Himalayas, Everest Base Camp, trekking, trail, Dudh Koshi, river

Lunch time in the sun!

Bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River

Before I get to the monster climb…  This day was made fun by the many bridges low and high, short and long we would cross.  If you are not a fan of suspension bridges, this may not be your favorite day but the most important thing to mind are the pack animals, not the height of the bridges!  Here are some images from the “day in bridges.”

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

Pack animals have right of way – if you are smart!

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

Lovely scenery from the bridge’s vantage point

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

One of the smaller bridges we dealt with

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

Beautiful spot (notice the prayer flags)!

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

Loved walking this close to the Dudh Koshi River

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

And then we got to this… (the bottom bridge is closed now)

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

And we are about to walk across the highest one!

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

View down from the highest suspension bridge

bridge, Nepal, Dudh Koshi, river, Everest Base Camp, route, Olympus, travel, outdoors, trekking, hiking, Khumbu, Sagarmatha

View down from the highest suspension bridge

And our awesome endpoint:  Namche Bazaar

The route to Everest Base Camp is not a steady uphill.  No place ever is (even Mt. Kilimanjaro has its downhills as you climb) but this was as much going down as you have gone up in many stretches.

In fact, this day, on a 5.3-mile (8.5 km) route, our net climb was around 2,300 ft (about 800 m) – we climbed much more (upwards of 4,000 ft) and descended a good bit.  But after lunch what we faced was mostly a severe uphill, especially after the last suspension bridge (the highest one).  And the trail was very rugged to boot.  Hard stuff.  I didn’t know how I could finish it.  And remember, we were climbing to our end point at over 11,300 ft (3,400 m) so the thin air was having an impact (as a reference point, once in Namche Bazaar, we would be at 67% oxygen level vs. sea level!!).  I had to stop every now and then just to catch my breath especially after a stretch where the ‘steps’ (rocks) were higher. Not knowing how much more I really had was both a blessing and a curse.  Certainly I would not want to know how much more most of the way but maybe during the last 30 minutes I would have wanted to know that Namche was THAT close.

With the incredible climb at the end, Namche Bazaar could not have come sooner.   So, it was awesome when we rounded a corner about 2.5 hours after lunch and we saw this town incredibly nested in what looked like mother nature’s own amphitheater:  Namche Bazaar!  It was a photo op moment for sure and we had earned the rest day coming up on Day 3!

Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Everest Base Camp, trail, route, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, outdoors, adventure

I shall name this photo: “The first time I saw sweet Namche”

Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Everest Base Camp, trail, route, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, outdoors, adventure

The moment I stopped when I rounded the corner – best moment ever!

Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Everest Base Camp, trail, route, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, outdoors, adventure

My trek roommate and I celebrating we had survived

——————————————————————————————

Check out other related posts!

Hiking in Nepal: Lukla to Tok Tok (Day 1)

My trek in the Himalayas followed the route to Everest Base Camp.  I only had two weeks’ vacation so I was short one week to make it all the way to “EBC” since my visit to Nepal included an extra number of days to help in the re-building of a school that was destroyed during the April 2015 earthquake in the village of Kumari.  It was a great trip and I did not want to miss seeing Mount Everest in person.  Making that decision was not the hardest part, figuring out what I need to take was!  (Read here for how I packed for the trek!)

However, I went on this trek with Trekking for Kids because I knew some of the folks going and it was not a bad time to be away from work (is there ever a good time??).  So my trek was going to be from Lukla to Deboche, past the Tengboche monastery.  As it turned out, that ended up being a good choice since my stepfather died back home the day before I left Nepal for home.  But, before that turn of events, I was already glad I had chosen to not go all the way.

Day 1 took us from Lukla (2,860 metres (9,383 ft)) to Tok Tok (2,760 metres (9,o55 ft)). While an overall descent, there were plenty of climbs and descents along the way!

Nepal, Himalaya, route, Tok Tok, Lukla, map, trekking, Everest trek, adventure

Our starting point and ending point for day 1

Starting the trek:  getting to Lukla

Starting the trek in Lukla required first getting to Lukla.  As I shared in an earlier post, either one does a local bus and then a few days’ hike to get to Lukla or one flies into one of the “most dangerous” airports in the world:  Lukla (LUA).  I did the latter for a couple of good reasons:  that was what was pre-planned by Trekking for Kids and I didn’t have enough vacation time anyway!

You can read the details in the earlier post but the short of it is:  I made it to Lukla alive and without too much suffering 🙂

Lukla, Nepal, airport, runway, travel, adventure, Samsung Galaxy

The Lukla airport – a very short and dramatic runway!

Getting the trek going:  leaving Lukla

After we landed in Lukla, getting our bags was a piece of cake (the airport is tiny, after all).  From there to our breakfast stop (at a hotel we would return to at the end of the trek) was a very short walk (Lukla is tiny, after all).  We got there and, as we had left Kathmandu at the literal crack of dawn, we proceeded to have some breakfast before heading out.  Our guides had to sort our things with the porters we were picking up in Lukla so we had ample time.  I can’t really recall what I had but nothing too heavy as we were leaving for a few hours’ hike.Everyone was itching to go and, when we finally did, I think we had a little bit of adrenaline flowing!  Close to leaving Lukla, we came to our first gate and prayer wheels and the backdrop was phenomenal in the deep blue sky ahead.  It was a sign of the great day ahead!

Though we started the hike at over 9,000 ft, we warmed up pretty quickly as the hike progressed.  It felt so good!  Hamlets in this part of Nepal are charming probably because of the color applied to the window and door frames and we started noticing this early on.

Nepal, Himalayas, house, hamlet, blue, travel, Olympus, trekkers

Approaching a hamlet

Nepal, Himalayas, house, hamlet, blue, travel, Olympus

House along the trek route

We crossed our first hanging bridge on this day (one of two hanging bridges that day).  It was not too high (I am not afraid of heights, thankfully) and it was certainly long.  We would follow this river all the way to near Namche Bazaar.  We also crossed another bridge, a truss one, that day.  I noticed that some parts of the route, as it passed through small “hamlets,” were paved with stones while others were dirt paths.  It was nice to have the variation in the route – just like it was nice to have all the uphills and downhills mixed.

Nepal, Everest trek, Dhudh Kosi, river, trekking, Olympus

Approaching the Dhudh Kosi River and the hanging bridge

River, Dudh Kosi, Nepal, glacier water, Everest trek, trekking, nature, outdoors

Beautiful waters, courtesy of glacierland!

Buddhist faith along the route

Along the way we passed different-sized prayer wheels and collections of Tibetan tablets (in sanskrit) that are so iconic and that speak to the concreteness of the faith in that region of Asia.  I tried to not miss spinning prayer wheels and we certainly made sure we passed the “monuments” on their left as tradition/faith requires.

stupa, Buddhism, sanskrit tablet, stupa, Himalayas, Everest trek, Nepal, travel, outdoors, faith, religion, photo, Olympus

Sanskrit tablets and a stupa

prayer wheel, Buddhism, sanskrit tablet, stupa, Himalayas, Everest trek, Nepal, travel, outdoors, faith, religion, photo, Olympus

A prayer wheel asking to be spun

A hiker has to eat!

Along the way we stopped for lunch at a beautiful spot where the route made a 90-degree angle.  The place, the Wind Horse Lodge and Restaurant was a perfect spot, idyllic, for the stop.  We sat outside at tables on the small lawn, graced by marigolds along the edges.  Until clouds rolled over and it started getting cold.  We promptly found tables indoors and the lunch was pretty darn good:  fried noodles and rice along with fried mini empanadas (my Latin roots betray me as that is not what they call them there!).

Nepal, Everest trek, food, fried noodles, travel, trekking, teahouse

Lunch!

Ending our hike in Tok Tok

Bellies full and feet rested, we proceeded on our hike.  I try on these treks to not study the route we are going to take as I don’t want to be “expecting” the next stop or calculating how much longer we have to go – I want to enjoy the moment though, I admit, at times when I am feeling tired, I start trying to figure out how much longer I have to go 🙂

We arrived at our teahouse in Tok Tok (River View Lodge) and, as usual, it is a great feeling to hear the words “We are here” when we arrive at our resting place for the night!  It was a tiny spot nestled between a hill and the river.  I wish it had been a tad warmer to stay outside in the evening.

teahouse, room, Everest trek, lodging, Nepal, Himalayas, travel, trekking, travel, Olympus, photo

My room at the teahouse

teahouse, room, Everest trek, lodging, Nepal, Himalayas, travel, trekking, travel, Olympus, photo

The dining room (aka, hanging out room) at the teahouse

In the end, it was a spectacular first day trekking in the Himalayas and I slept well that night!  I leave you with one of my favorite views from that day!

stupa, Buddhism, stupa, Himalayas, Everest trek, Nepal, travel, outdoors, faith, religion

Just magnificent


Other posts related to this hike:

%d bloggers like this: