Jordan

Admiring History on the Rocks in Petra, Jordan

7 April 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

I first went to Petra, Jordan back in 1998 on a day trip from Sharm-el-Sheikh at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt. If you know the lay of the land, that may sound impossible. Well, not if you take a flight from Sharm-el-Sheikh to Aqaba, Jordan and then hop on a bus. That’s exactly what I did. I did not have the luxury of time so it was an either do it on a day trip or not do it. Since I could not predict the future, I had to go for it to be sure I got to see Petra in case I didn’t get to come back.

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel — Headed to Petra

Petra, Jordan, roads, travel — Great vistas along the way

Return to Petra

Fast forward 15 years and I return to this necropolis-turned-town-turned-movie-setting-turned-massive-tourist-site. I was thrilled at the opportunity to return and explore it on more depth. You see, in my first visit, I decided to walk my way in which is great in many ways but it eats away precious time for someone on a day trip there from Sharm-el-Sheikh. The second time, while I did walk in, I walked faster knowing time was precious and I rented a donkey to take me up to save time. That was a great idea except that the donkey preferred the edge of the path on the way up rather than risk hitting itself against the rocks at the other side of the path, making this rider a little bit worried about the way down!

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, donkey, ilivetotravel, donkey — Donkey in the shade – smart!

Thanks, Nabateans

Petra is amazing due to how it has evolved over time but it was the Nabateans who deserve the credit (after God, of course) for this place. Certainly, the landscape and topography are thanks to the Maker but what happened after that really starts with the Nabateans who carved a necropolis out of these beautiful rocks. Others, like the Romans, continued to develop the site to what we know now.

More than the Treasury

You can see evidence of amazing early engineering when you see the channels that were carved into the rock to capture the rare rainfall that rolled down canyon walls and take it into a natural “holding tank.”

Also impressive are the facades of the tombs built into the rocks such as the Royal Tombs and other areas like the Monastery and the very famous Treasury, which many think to be what the Indiana Jones movie showed. In reality the Treasury is more of a facade. Be sure to get a guide who explains to you what you are looking at as the Treasury, for example, shows evidence of how it was carved out of the stone. And be sure to go all over!

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, Royal Tombs — Some of the Royal Tombs

My advice if you are visiting Petra and don’t have but a day or two is to use a donkey for some of the climbs (unless you want or need the exercise) and then walk and explore – this way, you will maximize what you will see from this one-of-a-kind place and there is PLENTY to see and admire about this unique site.

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, Treasury, ilivetotravel — My family “came along” with me to Petra!

During my second visit to Petra, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: ancient site, archeology, Canon EOS Rebel, exploring, history, Jordan, Middle East, Nabatean, necropolis, Petra, photos, ruins, travel

Photo of the Week – Color in a Bowl

15 January 2014 by Raul 3 Comments

While not a big shopper here, sometimes I do stop to take a look at the arts and crafts made in the places I visit – usually hoping that something unusual catches my eye: either for a purchase or a picture. During my trip to Jordan I stopped at a store that had plenty to grab my attention. Here is one of my favorite finds (nope, I did not purchase it; no space!).

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Colorful bowl made in Jordan

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Special Photos Tagged With: bowl, Canon EOS Rebel, ceramic, color, Jordan, photo, shopping, souvenir, travel

Top 16 Memorable Moments from 2013 in Photos

3 January 2014 by Raul 16 Comments

As I think of 2013, I recall the many neat experiences at home and away. Looking through my photos is a great way to bring back the memories. I’d thought I’d share with you some of my most memorable moments from 2013 via photos – some of which have been shared before in other posts and some have not – in no particular order. Hope you like them!

#1 When I first saw Mt. Kilimanjaro

Not necessarily a great photo from a technique standpoint but pretty “momentous”. I landed at Kilimanjaro International Airport around midnight. When I woke up the next day at my hotel, someone told me that if I went outside to the local road, I could see Kilimanjaro, which I was about to climb. Neat to see it but even neater to run into two little locals on their way to school! A moment I will always treasure.

#2 At Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro

I have shared a lot of pictures I love through my prior posts about hiking Kilimanjaro (start with the Day 1 summary if you want to see them all!). So to keep this post manageable, to go along with my first sighting of the mountain in #1, I’d thought I’d then include me by the new sign at Uhuru Peak (the highest point in Mt. Kilimanjaro). This photo is special as I brought my family along for this once-in-a-lifetime adventure!

#3 Ancient ruins

I shared this photo in an earlier post about my visit to Jerash, Jordan but it remains one of my favorite pictures for the year so it deserves inclusion here. Seeing Jerash – a complete unknown to me until that point – was a great discovery in 2013.

Columns, temple, artemis, jerash, jordan, history, roman ruins, travel, photo

Beautiful columns in the Temple of Artemis

#4 Monumental Petra

Everyone has seen the same picture of the Treasury in Petra and that is because there is not much space to back away from it. But there are plenty of other angles to photograph this incredible “carving”. This is one of my favorites. I had been to Petra before but seeing how well this photo turned out back at home made me happy!

#5 Twins?

While touring Jordan, after a long day at Petra, the group went out for dinner. Yes, we were all a little tired. One of our fellow travelers pointed out how our guide and I were not only dressed alike but were in the same pose – and snap! the picture was taken. We were laughing when we realized this was all true and the photo captured that moment so well!

#6 Kid in Mt. Nebo

Exploring Jordan was incredible: lots of history, incredible nature, etc. But the people is what really made the difference: warm and friendly and the smile on this kid’s face captures well how we were made to feel welcome by everyone.

#7 Food, food, food

I summarized my year in food and drinks in an earlier post but this plate deserves inclusion here. It is from a lunch I had in Mardaba, Jordan but I’ve enjoyed great food this year from Manila to Miami, from Jordan to Minneapolis, from Washington, D.C. to Mt. Kilimanjaro! Oh, and don’t forget Tampa and Atlanta!

#8 DragonCon’s parade in Atlanta

DragonCon is an interesting event held in Atlanta every year. I went with friends to see the parade and enjoyed seeing all the characters that walked along. This is one of my favorite pictures from that parade (others here).

#9, 10 and 11 Africa and the great outdoors!

In addition to hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro, my Tanzania experience included doing a safari the right way (4 days, not just a one drive in-and-out as I had done a few years before due to limited time while on a business trip). These images capture well my favorite moments from that experience!

#12 An amazing construction scene

Driving around the neighborhood next to mine in Atlanta, I ran into this scene! What an incredible sight. The house was being lifted so it can sit higher on the ground due to being in a flood plain.

#13 Stormy sky in Atlanta

My hometown provided another of the most memorable photos I took on 2013: stormy skies over Buckhead.

#14 and 15 Pictures of this traveler

During my trip to Jordan, a few pictures of me were taken by fellow travelers. I like these two (which clearly were taken on the same day…) in particular because they show how happy I was at the time. The second one has me with my faithful companion: no, not the donkey but my camera!

#16 Sunset over the Dead Sea with a couple of love birds

To close this post, I will re-share one of my favorite photos ever from 2013 taken by me as the sun set over the Dead Sea from our hotel in Jordan (the Movenpick resort – awesome). I was lucky these two birds were waiting for me on that palm tree to capture the moment!

sunset, Jordan, Dead Sea, birds, palm tree, golden, travel, photo, Olympus

Is this a sunset scene or what??!!

I hope 2014 brings you many memorable moments, whether you capture them on a photo or not!

Filed Under: Special Photos, Travel Journal Tagged With: Africa, Atlanta, bird, columns, Dead Sea, elephant, Jerash, Jordan, kids, Kilimanjaro, memorable, photos, serengeti, sunset, Tanzania, travel

2013: Oh, The Places I Stayed At

23 December 2013 by Raul 5 Comments

OK, ending with a preposition is not proper but to make it sound Dr. Seuss-ish I hardly could have made it “Oh, the places at which I stayed.”

In any case, I shared my year in food and beverages in an earlier post. But 2013 was also a good year in terms of exploring places to stay. Here are the highlights of my year in accommodations!

Moshi, Tanzania

While in Moshi working with the Kili Centre orphanage, we stayed at two different hotels: one before climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro and one after. Each is special for different reasons.

The Honey Badger Lodge had a great feel in the grounds and other public areas (bar and pool area) as well as spacious rooms / cabanas. The owners and staff were incredible. It was amazing to be greeted by the friendly wait staff by name every day!

Honey Badger Lodge,Moshi, Tanzania, Kilimanjaro, lodging, hotel, travel, photo, Olympus

Notice the monkey out for a walk in the beautiful gardens of the Honey Badger Lodge

After coming down from the mountain, we went to the Springlands Hotel. This place was special because it is where we got to celebrate our success in climbing the mountain (100% of our group of 16 summitted!).

Springlands Hotel, Moshi, Tanzania, Kilimanjaro, lodging, hotel, travel, photo, Olympus

The ground of the Springlands Hotel

Mt. Kilimanjaro

One of the biggest pulls on me to consider doing Kili again are some of the great views afforded by some of the camps in which we stayed. Shira Camp on day 2 and Karanga Camp on day 4 were just stunning for me. Tell me what you think!

Shira Camp, Kilimanjaro, Uhuru, cimbing, hiking, photo, beauty, Olympus, Africa, Tanzania

Shira Camp with the summit and a nice set of clouds behind it

Karanga Camp, Kilimanjaro, Uhuru, cimbing, hiking, photo, beauty, Olympus, Africa, Tanzania

Looking at the top of Kili from Karanga Camp

Washington, D.C.

I stayed at a few different hotels over my two years of constant travel up there for work. The Mayflower definitely was my number one choice though some of that is because it was the closest one to work.

The newly renovated lobby and new restaurant bar: Edgar. A place I enjoyed hanging out at

Elegant main corridor by the ballrooms

Rooms were spacious and with the right amount of furnishings – not overdone

The Sofitel D.C. was not usually in range of my approved budget but even if I did not get to stay there, I loved trying the specialty cocktails of Le Bar. I got to check out the W Hotel, right near The White House. Though the room’s window did not close properly and it took a while to resolve the situation, the hotel was gracious in making it up to me. It was a nice touch. I love the modernity of the rooms (as with any Ws) and the great view from the room I finally got settled into!

W Hotel, Washington, D.C., lodging, accommodations, travel, photo, Olympus

View towards the Dept of Treasury (right) looking towards the south lawn of The White House

Great lines and furnishings in the room. And the translucent shower wall.

Other mainstays of my time there were the Renaissance on 9^th St NW, near Chinatown, and the Renaissance in New Hampshire. Of the former, I really liked the lobby, a space where I would happily sit for happy hour or a Friday night out with friends. It also had the nicest executive lounge in the U.S. properties of hotels affiliated with Marriott. Of the latter, I loved its location: closer to Georgetown, right by residential areas, walking distance from the Kennedy Center, and easy access to running trails without having to deal with too many street crossings and heavy traffic. Also, very close to Dupont Circle which was nice in terms of having a broad range of dining options – and watching the unique character of the area!

In Jordan we stayed all over the country and in many different types of accommodations. I wrote specifically about all these different type of accommodations experienced here so I will not duplicate here what I have already shared (but do check that post out!). However, I will share here more about the Six Senses Spa where we stayed two nights because I don’t feel I shared how unique a place this is, in the middle of nowhere (it feels), nestled in a narrow canyon that hosts the hot springs the place is known for.

The lower hot springs are behind the building on the picture (taken from the hotel)

Looking at the hotel from the entrance to the area

While management’s attention to the guest needed a little bit of polishing, the staff itself made every effort possible to deliver a great experience. The rooms’ use of wood panels instead of curtains on the balconies’ doors was very unique and provided a warmth to the room that I really liked. But take a look at the spa area from behind the falls!

The public hot springs

From behind the waterfall in the public hot springs

Manila, The Philippines

In my short trip to Manila, I stayed at two hotels, The Bayleaf Hotel and The Manila Marriott. I wrote previously about how the former provided the best location to explore the Intramuros district of Manila whereas the latter was a paradise of relaxation. While The Bayleaf had less glamour than the Manila Marriott, its convenience to learn about Manila’s history was great. Both shone because of the incredible attention to service and the customer by their staffs.

Minneapolis

While visiting Minneapolis, I stayed at The Hotel Minneapolis, from Marriott’s Autograph Collection. It was my first time trying a property from the Autograph Collection so I was curious how it would be. I really liked its spacious lobby and its location, close to the river, the theater district, and the business district. I walked everywhere downtown from the hotel. The rooms, though not huge, were well-enough sized. The building dates from the earlier 20th century when it was built as a bank. I was really impressed by how cleverly the time and function of the building were tapped and applied to create great public spaces in the hotel. If I were there on a business trip, I would definitely enjoy lounging in the lobby spaces after working hours. The friendliness of the staff topped off what was a great stay.

The lobby is a comfortable space to lounge around after work or during a weekend stay

bank vault, Minneapolis Hotel, Autographi Collection, hotel, lobby, historical, Minneapolis, travel, lodging, accommodation, Olympus

Some original details of the bank, like this vault, are preserved

bar, Minneapolis Hotel, Autographi Collection, hotel, lobby, historical, Minneapolis, travel, lodging, accommodation, architecture, Olympus

Bar design takes advantage of the original architectural details

Minneapolis Hotel,architecture, Autographi Collection, hotel, lobby, historical, Minneapolis, travel, lodging, accommodation, Olympus

High ceilings and marble columns add a lot of character to the lobby spaces

Hope everyone has a great holidays and I wish you the best in 2014!

I was hosted at the Jordan, Minneapolis and Manila hotels. All opinions are my own based on my experiences and observations.

Filed Under: Africa, Travel Journal Tagged With: accommodations, Autograph Collection, DC, hotel, Jordan, lodging, Minneapolis, moshi, photos Olympus, travel

The Walls of the Wadi Mujib

16 December 2013 by Raul 5 Comments

The Wadi Mujib in Jordan is a fun place because you get to explore a gully (“wadi”) in which water is flowing. The first part of the Wadi is maybe ankle deep or a little higher in some places so pretty easy and fun (though I kept worrying I would drop my camera in the water!). It is also a refreshing way to spend part of the day as you are generally out of the sun and the water feels good!

Wadi Mujib, Jordan, outdoors, adventure, fun, Middle East, colors, travel, photo, Olympus

The entrance to the wadi

My favorite part of exploring the Wadi Mujib is to see those colorful walls up close. I walked with no rush and soaked in the view all around me. For the more intrepid, go deeper into the canyon where a true adventure awaits (don’t bring your camera unless it is waterproof!).

And if you are tired of walking, just ride your way out!

If you go to Jordan, don’t miss this neat outdoor experience!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, gorge, gulley, Jordan, Olympus, outdoors, photo, travel, Wadi Mujib, water

Exploring Mount Nebo, Jordan

4 October 2013 by Raul 7 Comments

Mount Nebo, Jordan is located on an area north of the Dead Sea that sits high on a ridge. According to the Bible, Mount Nebo is the place where Moses was allowed to see the Promised Land he would never enter (after guiding his people out of Egypt for 40 years!). Exploring Mount Nebo is a neat activity that does not require more than a couple of hours but is very rewarding.

Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan, tourism, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Moses, I suppose

Mt. Nebo, Jordan, Moses, Promised Land, Holy Land, religion, archeology, history, sign, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Today, without Moses around, this sign does the job of pointing to the Promised Land

Mt. Nebo overlooks the valley of the River Jordan and one can glimpse Jericho and Jerusalem to the west on a good day. The site was visited by Popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI at some point giving the site an added level of credibility, if you will, as a site of religious importance.

Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan, archeology, history, religion, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Welcome to Mt. Nebo!

It is also claimed that good ole Moses is buried there. However, as with many similar claims, there is no conclusive evidence (as conclusive as one may expect a few thousand years later…). Whether any of this interests you or not, the views of the valley below are certainly worth visiting this important archeological site.

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Some of the view

Visiting Mount Nebo

There was a small temporary-looking exhibit at the site showing some of the beautiful mosaics of the remains of a church found in the first half of the 20th century on Mt. Nebo. It really makes you ponder the history of the place and the area and all the events it has witnessed over time. It is mind-boggling.

Mount Nebo, Jordan, mosaic, Moses, history, religion, archeology, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Part of the mosaics

Color manages to survive close to two millenia

Up close and personal

The place is crowded with tourists of all ages and that distracts a little, for sure, from the importance of the place. Perhaps some construction during the time of my visit contributed to the small sense of chaos, though there were moments when I was glad there was chaos and a crowd…

Mt. Nebo, Jordan, tourism, photo, children, Canon EOS Rebel

Young Mt. Nebo visitors

Mt. Nebo, Jordan, tourism, photo, child, Canon EOS Rebel

Another school kid visiting the site

I was patient, though, and I was rewarded when the key spot where Moses stood cleared up for a good 5 minutes and I was able to soak it all in better during that pause in the visitors.

Let ME show you the Promised Land

So, in case you have not been there, allow me show you the Promised Land! Can you imagine how that looked back in the time of Moses? I imagine from that altitude and distance, not much has likely changed…

Mount Nebo, Holy land, Promised Land, Jordan, Moses, photo, ilivetotravel, view, vista

“Over yonder!” says this modern-day Moses-wanna-be

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: archeology, Canon EOS Rebel, history, Holy Land, Jordan, Jordania, mosaic, Moses, Mount Nebo, Promised Land, religion, view

From Suite to Tent: What Made Accommodations Memorable in Jordan

19 July 2013 by Raul 17 Comments

Throughout all my travels, I have experienced different types of accommodations. A rented apartment in Tuscany, Krakow, Paris and Sofia. No-frills basic hotels in Stone Town, Moshi, Aswan and Brasov. Bed & breakfasts in Sonoma, the Dordogne, and Tavistock. Middle-of-the-road hotels in Reston, Stellenbosch and Venice. Top-of-the-line in Santiago de Chile, Mykonos, Boca Raton, and Washington D.C. And a camping tent in Mt. Kilimanjaro.

The type of place I stay at is not happenstance – though staying at a youth hostel in my very late 30s in Oslo was due to no hotels being available for my business trip… quite the experience! I select the type of place I stay at based on many factors, such as:

am I going solo or with others
nature of the trip (business or personal)
am I staying in one place for the most part or roaming
what I want to spend,
what am I looking to experience in this vacation (I may only need a bed or I may want to enjoy a royal experience in my lodging).

But seldom do I experience many types of lodging in one trip. And that’s exactly what I did in my recent trip to Jordan. My trip to Jordan confirmed for me that that special something is what makes accommodations truly enjoyable and memorable (which is just as important as enjoying them at the moment!) regardless of the type of accommodation.

Here are the places I stayed at and why they each became as memorable a part of my trip as the many of the sights and sites I got to see in awesome Jordan.

Standard nice hotel

I got to continue my Marriott stays quite accidentally (as I did not have a hand in choosing this time), in both Amman and Petra. Marriotts give you that standard feel that provides continuity for the very frequent traveler who moves around towns and hotels. I can count on standard amenities, service and comfort in these.

The Amman Marriott first surprises because it feels like it is in the middle of a neighborhood. Then you have to go through security – and odd thing but one that I am sure they do to keep me safe and unconcerned. I felt both. The restaurant offers a great breakfast buffet. The outdoor pool area is spacious enough but there is ALSO an indoor pool and and jacuzzi so something for everyone’s water preferences. The hallways in the room floors feel very luxurious and the rooms are nicer than the regular Marriott I have experienced and I separate this from the room I actually got which was an upgrade due to my Platinum Elite status with the chain: I got quite a nice suite!!!

Marriott Amman Jordan lobby photo Canon EOS Rebel

Amman Marriott: A great lobby to hang out and read your paper

The Petra Marriott is a smaller hotel than the one in Amman – but what it lacks in size (no executive lounge, for example) it makes up for in the view. The hotel faces the mountains around Petra from a high vantage point which makes it a great place to watch sunset as well! The breakfast buffet was also smaller when compared to the Amman one and the staff not as “going out of their way” but it was still a good breakfast.

Lobby area

Atrium

Beautiful sunset looking towards the mountains by Petra

Sunset view towards Petra and the hotel’s pool area

Clearly the view from the Petra Marriott made it most memorable but that feeling of arriving at a “second home”-type of place was also pretty darn cool.

Roughing it in a camp

One night we actually “roughed” it at Camp Rummana in the Dana Biosphere Reserve where one can see nature at its best is this part of Jordan. I put rough in quote because, though sleeping in a tent and using a common bathroom facility are not high-styling it, these tents beat the tent I slept in while climbing Kilimanjaro for sure. The tents were spacious and they had mattresses on the ground. There was a common bathroom facility (a hike away if you woke up in the middle of the night and “had to go”) with showers and also a dining area where we had our meals. Closer to the sleeping tents, was a set of large tents to hang out after dinner before bedtime – true to the Bedouin way.

Inside of a tent in Camp Rummana in the Dana Biosphere Reserve Olympus

A mattress and the basics

tents, Rummana camp, Jordan, Dana Biosphere Reserve

The sleeping tent area of the Rummana camp

Dining area in Camp Rummana in Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan

The dining area. No, he is not a giant.

Nothing like being so close to nature to make a place memorable and the Rummana Camp definitely connected me with the great setting.

An ecolodge

After the hike through the Dana-Feynan canyon, we arrived exhausted at the Feynan Ecolodge, right in the heart of the Dana Biosphere Reserve. It has been rated one of the world’s top 50 ecolodges by National Geographic’s Adventure magazine. A partnership between the Royal Conservation Society of Jordan and EcoHotels, this lodge seeks to fit in not only with the terrain but also by respecting the local traditions and culture and providing the opportunity for an economic livelihood for the locals of the area. There is a LOT that is done right by this ecolodge, so remote from main roads and anything urban yet surrounded by some incredible landscapes and skies as well as by the welcoming Bedouins of the area.

The ecolodge as one approaches it – unassuming!

Feynan is an ecolodge which means little or no electricity available (you can re-charge your device on one of two power outlets in the lobby) which is tough but, at the same time, we are too connected some times so maybe this is a good break? It also means it only offers vegetarian fare as meat would require refrigeration. But the food was delicious and quite diverse much to my surprise! The rooms are very nice; no frills but nice. Each has its own bathroom. Oh and water is free – straight from a mineral spring so it is safe to drink! Now, if it is a hot time of the year, know that the rooms have no fans or A/C (of course) – but you are here for the adventure, right? Finally, it also has a rooftop telescope – a great place to explore the skies at night.

Room at Feynan Ecolodge in Jordan's Dana Biosphere Reserve Olympus

Room at the ecolodge

Earthen jar or pitcher in the Feynan Ecolodge - mineral watier

Earthen pitcher of mineral water awaits in the room

The ability to get close to the locals without being taken to a “shop” definitely made the Feynan Ecolodge quite memorable to me as was the interesting sunset I got to watch.

A place with an experience

After exploring the Wadi Rum by pick-up truck well into the evening, we arrived at a Captain’s Desert Private Camp to spend the night. But it was not just to have dinner and spend the night. There was to be music and more of a soirée experience. The tents were different than the Rummana Camp‘s but no worse, no better. There was a nice area to have dinner and hang out, and, in fact, some folks opted to sleep there under the stars. What was really cool about this place was that it was nested in canyon walls and it was beautiful in the morning.

Captain desert camp in the Wadi Rum, Jordan

Tents in Captain’s Desert Camp

Hanging out at the camp

The Bedouin experience and the setting made the Captain’s Desert Camp quite a memorable place to stay. I wish I had been feeling 100% that night to enjoy it more!

A hideaway

We got to stay at this hideaway two times each for one night. The Evason Ma’in Six Senses hotel may have some details to work out, mainly in its managerial/front office efforts, but the place is in an idyllic and very secluded setting. Further, it provides great comfort in its rooms, offers great views, and is around hot springs that offer great relaxation.

Room at the Evason Ma'in Six Senses hotel in Jordan

Room. Really like the wooden shutter doors and spacious comfort

Lobby of the Evason Ma'in Six Senses hotel in Jordan

Lobby area

Detail of the lobby area

The uniqueness of the setting and the proximity and relative isolation of the hot springs as well as the inviting rooms made this place a memorable part of my trip.

And the “living-it-up” resort

My last night in Jordan was by the Dead Sea, where great resorts are located. I stayed at the Mövenpick, a 5-star resort with a great view, a great offering in terms of food and fun, and an interesting design whether in architectural details or in the concept itself.

Movepick resort Dead Sea Jordan luxury comfort

Incredible details in the decorations at the main entrance

The room was not as luxurious as I would have expected but it was comfortable and spacious for sure.

The hotel grounds had several pools including one only for adults (closest to the Dead Sea).

Pools Movenpick hotel resort Dead Sea Jordan Olympus

One of the all-ages pool overlooking the Dead Sea

The main hotel building had many different areas to lounge in with very nice decorations and details. The restaurant was outstanding in the diversity and quality of the buffet it offered for dinner and breakfast.

Room

Lounge Movenpick resort by the Dead Sea in Jordan Olympus

One of the many sitting areas

At night there was an area that offered music and belly dancing without the corniness typically associated with belly dancing in the U.S. (where there HAS to be audience participation); you could just really appreciate the art form here without worrying you were going to be called upon to make a fool of yourself…

Movenpick Dead Sea Jordan resort outdoor Olympus

Outdoor area for drinks and entertainment in the evening

What made this place the most memorable was the amazing sunset I got to live through and watch…

Sunset Dead Sea pool Movenpick resort Jordan amazing awesome infinity Olympus photo

The lowest of the pools, closest to the Dead Sea during a GREAT sunset

Glorious, eh?

Sunset Dead Sea birds tree Jordan Canon EOS Rebel, photo

Is this a sunset scene or what??!!

Nuff said!

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: accommodations, Amman, camp, Canon EOS Rebel, ecolodge, evason, Feynan, hotel, Jordan, lodging, luxury, Marriott, movenpick, Petra, photos, resort, rummana, six senses, spa, sunset

Roman Ruins in Jordan | Ancient Jerash

27 June 2013 by Raul 14 Comments

Yes, Jordan is more than Petra. And, if you have read some of my other posts on what I saw in Jordan, you are aware of that. But when it comes to historical sites of significance, it is worth noting there are important and well-preserved Roman ruins in Jordan, the Hashemite Kingdom. Jerash, in northwestern Jordan, is historically quite important on its own right even if overshadowed by the more famous Petra further south. However, Jerash struck me not only for its historical significance but also because it was alive!

Jerash – the ancient Greco-Roman city

Before I tell you how it is alive, let’s explore the historical and architectural gem Jerash is. Jerash (known as Gerasa in older times) was a city built originally in Greco-Roman times. This is estimated to have been established in the 4th century BC. After a large earthquake in the 8th century and further destruction brought about by other earthquakes and wars, Jerash became a footnote of history. That is, until it was begun to be excavated in the early 19th century and the rise of uncovering Roman ruins in Jordan. Even Emperor Hadrian himself visited Jerash in his days and there is a triumphal arch commemorating that visit. Jerash was not just a backwater outpost.

Arch of Hadrian built to honor his visit

: Detail of the Arch of Hadrian

What to see in Jerash: spectacular Roman ruins

Among the many sites in Jerash to explore are the Forum, temples to Zeus and Artemis, the Cardo Maximus, the North and South theaters and many other ruins.

: View of the Forum at Jerash

: Detail of the colonnade of the Forum

Mosaic Roman ruins Byzantine church Jerash Jordan art design Canon EOS Rebel

Mosaic floor of one of the 3 contiguous Byzantine churches on the site

Along the Cardo Maximus

The Cardo Maximus is one of the most phenomenal ancient “streets” I have ever walked. It is a column-lined road where the remnants, both standing and fallen, of the many structures that used to line it are still quite present if not alive.

Visitors walking down the Cardo Maximus, the north-south colonnaded street

Fallen column Roman ruin history Jerash Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Jerash’s ruins did not survive powerful earthquakes and other ravages as this reminds us

Columns temple artemis jerash jordan history roman ruins

Beautiful columns in the Temple of Artemis

The place is alive

Oh, you think I am talking figuratively, aren’t you?? There is a column in the Temple of Artemis that is actually moving. You can place your hand at its base and you will feel it moving. Yes, indeed! But that is not quite what I mean when I say Jerash is alive…

Moving column temple artemis Jerash Jordan Roan ruins

I hesitated for a second putting my hand in there. I let someone else go first…

There were also vegetation around (this being the greener part of Jordan) like the following which also contributes to making Jerash a site that is “alive”. But that’s still not what I mean…

Fig tree in Jerash, Jordan Roman ruins Canon EOS Rebel

Fig tree along the path

But what I really meant about Jerash being alive was neither of the prior two photos. The day we visited there were several groups of schoolchildren visiting and they enjoyed chanting in the large Roman theater – almost like competing to see who had the best chants – and running up the stands.

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children enjoying and LIVING the ruins!

Children climbing the stands of the theater

The smile so typical of every kid we ran into! A happy memory for us all

Though these ancient ruins were some of the most impressive I have seem, it was great to see a historic place so alive that day – it helped me connect more to the essence of Jordan via its children!

Pin this image to your travel planning board – amazing Roman ruins in Jordan !

Check out these other posts about Jordan:

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan Tagged With: archeology, architecture, Artemis temple, children, colonnade, history, Jerash, Jordan, Roman columns, roman ruins

Got History? Amman Does!

31 May 2013 by Raul 20 Comments

Coming to Amman for the first time, I was curious as to what the city would feel like. Surely, there would be some good restaurants (all cities have them!) and some nationally important buildings or monuments worth visiting (and photographing!). I have been to Cairo, close to Amman in many ways beyond distance, and Istanbul which, though not Arab, shared the Ottoman Empire with Amman and other places in the Middle East. But I figured with Amman being smaller and being in a smaller country would likely feel different. It was. Starting with its scale but also in the pace it seemed to have. It felt more livable, relaxed and manageable. And many places that would fall under the category of things to do while visiting Amman.

A Wealth of History in Amman

In terms of scale, while it does not have structures that compare with the Hagia Sophia or the Pyramids of Giza (how many places do??), the depth of the historical “record” it has on evidence took me by surprise. And I like this type of surprises!

I am a history buff but I am more informed about some places than others. About Jordan, I knew how the country came out of colonial rule in the 20th century, I knew Petra and its history, and had some notion of the Arab Revolution in which Lawrence of Arabia had a hand (thanks Hollywood). Amman surprised me by the incredible record of civilizations past that it holds and here is some of what I discovered in my visit to the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom. One of those things is that it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places town in the world!

The Citadel of Amman

The Citadel is a great example of the amazing historical record available for the visitor to Jordan. The Citadel not only has amazing ruins to visit and a great small museum but it offers amazing views of the city that surrounds it, all hills!

Amman city view flagpole flag Jordan hills photo Canon EOS Rebel

A city of hills with the massive Raghadan flagpole in the background (3rd tallest free-standing in the world)

As the visitor is reminded by the signage, there has been settlements in current day Amman since thousands of years before Christ past the Bronze and Iron Ages through Persian, Greek, Nabatean, Roman and Byzantine periods. It also has navigated through various names. Rammath-Ammon is one of the oldest but did you know the city was also named Philadelphia in ancient times? Yep, it was.

Among the ruins I explored at The Citadel were the ruins of a Byzantine Church and the Temple of Hercules.

Citadel Amman Jordan Roman ruins columns Canon EOS Rebel

Some of the Roman ruins in The Citadel

temple hercules roman statue, big hand, citadel amman jordan canon eos rebel

The Temple of Hercules as backdrop to the hand of a colossal Roman statue that once stood at The Citadel

Roman Colossus Statue Hand at the citadel in amman jordan canon eos rebel

Close-up of the big ole hand!

A key site at The Citadel is the Umayyad Governor’s Palace from the 8th century built on old Roman ruins. The Umayyad was a dynasty that ruled Amman for a few centuries but who ruled, at its peak, a vast caliphate from modern-day Pakistan to Spain. Who knew, right? Not covered in my ancient history class in high school…

Umayyad Palace

Dome blue sky Umayyad Governor Palace citadel amman jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the palace’s dome

Umayyad governor palace amman jordan flag architecture detail Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the exterior of the Umayyad Palace

"Architectural detail" amman jordan umayyad governor palace citadel Canon EOS Rebe,

Detail of the interior of the central room of the palace

"Architectural detail" Umayyad Palace in the Citadel architecture amman jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the central room at the Umayyad Palace at The Citadel in Amman, Jordan

Ruins Umayyad Mosque palace The Citadel Amman, Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Ruins from the old Umayyad Mosque by the palace

Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

Archeology museum artifacts Canon EOS Rebel

Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

The Roman Theater

Amman also has a Roman Theater built in the mid 2nd century A.D. by Emperor Antonius Pius. It is in the middle of Amman and is a popular place for local young adults to go visit, if my time there was any indication! Some in my group struck good conversations with locals whilst some of us climbed all over taking pictures!

The Roman Theater viewed from The Citadel

Approaching the entrance to the Roman Theater

The Roman Theater in Amman, Jordan Canon EOS Rebel ruins

Detail of the front of the theater’s stage

Roman Theater Amman Jordan modern spectator ruins Canon EOS Rebel

Is that a Roman spectator still hanging around??

As you can see, Amman has some incredible testimonials to ancient history in The Citadel and the Roman Theater. Petra, Jerash and Mardaba are example of other great places to witness history and will be the topic of a future post – stay tuned!!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan Tagged With: Amman, Citadel, hercules, history, Jordan, Jordania, middle east roman ruins, Roman theater, temple, things to see Amman, umayyad palace

Jordan’s Wadi Rum: Not Just for Lawrence of Arabia

19 May 2013 by Raul 24 Comments

Well, I assume I did follow some of his/his camel’s footsteps in the Wadi Rum in my recent trip to Jordan. My visit to the Wadi Rum was an amazing experience as I had never had been in such a landscape before. In an earlier post, I shared how I found color everywhere I went in Jordan. It is now time to focus on one of the places I explored during my trip.

The visit began at the well-set-up Visitor Center which has great information, a surprisingly good restaurant and an excellent view of the rock/mountain Lawrence himself called the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a reference from the Book of Proverbs.

Entering the Visitor Center, one immediately is rewarded by a view of the Seven Pillars!

T.E. Lawrence, his real name, became involved in the Arab Revolt in the late 1910s when the Arab peoples were revolting against the Ottoman Empire. Lawrence fell in love with the Wadi Rum area and now I can understand why. I hope sharing this adventure will also do the same for you and that you get inspired to see it in person some day!

Spending the afternoon exploring the Wadi Rum desert

We left the Visitor Center to find the vehicles that would take the group to explore the Wadi Rum well into the evening, prior to arriving at the Captain’s Camp where we would spend the night (and I will write about this in another post coming up soon).

Off we went in these pick up truck -type vehicles!

Soon we got deep in the incredible mountains/rocks formations characteristic of the Wadi Rum as well as have fun running up dunes and actually witnessing a rare rainstorm in the area (mercifully not over us!)

Sand dune soon to be “hit” by us visitors!

Note the Bedouin camp

Typical / iconic landscape the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan is known for

Amazing rock formations and colors in the Wadi Rum!

Barrah Siq where the large rock in the bottom has a carving of Lawrence of Arabia; alongside a Bedouin camp

Close-up of the carving of Lawrence of Arabia’s face in Barrah Siq

This photo offers a better sense of the scale of the place

The rare rainstorm in the distance – even lightning!

And then dusk began in the desert!

I thought we’d be done exploring as soon as it started getting dark and, while that was close to reality, we still got to enjoy dusk driving around – which made me appreciate the Wadi Rum in a different light, so to speak.

Sunset begins…

The magical sky at sunset

The clouds played nicely in the sunset scene

The ride is getting closer to ending as the lights come on. Still a beautiful backdrop!

And the method of exploring changes the next morning!

Our ride the next morning: Wadi Rum camels!

Riding camels! Yours truly in the blue shirt (via J. Festa – thanks!)

And to finish this, a shot taken by a fellow traveler about ilivetotravel in action!

Notice the tarp covering the back of our pick-up truck. And me so focused… (again, thanks J. Festa!)

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, camel, desert, Jordan, nature, outdoors, travel

Photo Essay – Colors of Jordan

9 May 2013 by Raul 46 Comments

Before my trip to Jordan, I had this mental image that Jordan was mostly a desert. I knew Jordan faced the Gulf of Aqaba and the Dead Sea and I recalled from my quick visit to Petra (on a day trip from Sharm-el-Sheikh, Egypt), that Petra would have some reddish color to it. But it’s like, if I thought how Jordan would look like, I would have said “fairly mono-chromatic”.

OK, I exaggerate a little. But the range of vivid colors I encountered during my visit became quite apparent once I was home walking through each of the 3,000+ pictures I took during my 9 days there (yes, quite a few were duplicates as I tried different settings and angles for a given “scene”; so far I am down to around 2,000). What I found out is that that desert color was a perfect background for all the others colors to pop. And pop they did!

So, I have decided to share where I found color that caught my eye that will, hopefully, give you a glimpse into Jordan! When you are done, I would love to hear back from you on which of these photos you like the most (photos are numbered for ease of reference!).

I found color in the landscapes in Jordan…

Much as I had experienced back in 1998, I got to see the colors typically associated with deserts. But on this trip, I also saw the color of canyons and gorges. White, sand, red – all colors represented in the landscape around me as I hope the following pictures show…

1. On the way to Mt. Nebo from Mardaba – sand color everywhere except the asphalt

2. Shifting sands in the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan

Wadi between Dana and Feynan, Jordan Olympus

3. Canyon we hiked through from Dana to Feynan – great mix of white and red with specks of green on the mountains around us

Canyon walls in Petra Jordan with Canon Rebel

4. Colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan!

Colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan Canon Rebel

5. More colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan

Colorful rocks in Wadi Mujib, Jordan Olympus camera

6. Colorful rocks in the waters of Wadi Mujib, Jordan

7. Colorful rocks in the walls Wadi Mujib, Jordan

I found color in the markets of Jordan…

Jewelry sold by folks around Petra, Jordan

8. Jewelry sold by folks around Petra

9. Who knew camels would be so colorful!

10. Headscarves in the traditional colors worn by many around Jordan

Fruits in the fruit stands in the market in Amman, Jordan Canon Rebel

11. Fruits in the fruit stands in the market in Amman, Jordan

Colorful market roof in the Amman, Jordan market Canon Rebel

12. Colorful market roof in the Amman, Jordan market

I found color in the architecture – old and new – in Jordan…

13. Color of old ruins in the Greco-Roman town of Jerash, Jordan

14. A still-standing column in Jerash makes a great contrast with the perfectly blue sky

15. The blues of the dome of King Abdullah’s Mosque (the Blue Mosque) of Amman and the blue of the sky

Inside view of the dome of King Abdullah's Mosque in Amman, Jordan (blue mosque)

16. Inside view of the dome of King Abdullah’s Mosque (built in the 1980s)

17. The unforgettable Treasury at Petra, Jordan

I found great blues in the waters around Jordan…

18. A sea and a sky both drapped in great blue!

Beautiful blues in the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba, Olympus

19. Beautiful blues in the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba

I found color in sunsets over the Dead Sea…

Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan, Canon EOS Rebel

20. Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan, Olympus

21. Double sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

22. Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

I found color in Jordanian artisans’ art…

Raw material for creation of mosaic art in workshop in Jordan

23. The raw materials that will create beautiful mosaics are colorful on their own…

24. Mosaic art: not only the great colors but also the shapes draw me

25. Beautiful art in this colorful vase

And I found a colorful people in Jordan!

26. Schoolchildren visiting the ruins of Jerash – singing and showing their pride in their country – a colorful bunch!

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Thank you to the Jordan Tourism Board for showing me all the colors in Jordan.

Pin Jordan to your travel board!!!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan Tagged With: Abdullah Mosque, Aqaba, blue mosque, Dana, Feynan, Jordan, Jordania, Jordanie, Jordanien, mosaic, Petra, sunset, Wadi Mujib, Yorudan

Can’t a Guy Just Get Out of the Sinai Peninsula? Please?

4 August 2011 by Raul 1 Comment

Moses was not the only one trying to get out of Egypt… There are three travel stories of mine that family and friends greatly enjoy, remind me of, and ask to re-tell. One is easier to tell than the other and it involved a monkey and me in Tanzania. But that is for another day… The second one is about a public restroom in a French train station and getting locked in. Also for another day. I almost forget these stories until out of nowhere, in some group gathering, someone will bring them up. The third and longer story is the one I will tell you here. It is not that it is ROFL-funny, nor I-was-in-serious-danger-scary. But it has a little bit of many things…

Picture this: Sharm-el-Sheikh, the Sinai Peninsula, 1998

I’d gone to Egypt with 4 friends on a whim. They had planned the trip a few weeks in advance (planning meaning they had a plane ticket and knew the parts of Egypt they wanted to hit). I suddenly had availability to take off from work and planned on joining them like 2 weeks before the trip. I love that stuff. But, because I joined them later, my travel differed from them. On top of that, I had decided to go see a friend in Istanbul afterwards.

We get to the Sinai Peninsula by flying from Luxor after exploring Nile-hugging Egypt. Well, 4 of us, the 5th took a bus to Hurghada and then I-don’t-know-what. (He told us he severely regretted taking the long painful bus ride…) Sharm-el-Sheikh, to be more precise, was our destination. Sharm is a popular resort town that many foreigners come to sun and scuba in; some don’t even hit Cairo when they come from Europe to vacation in Sharm.

The others in my group were scuba divers and I wasn’t so after a day of snorkeling, I was ready to explore other things. So I went to the St. Catherine’s Monastery on Mt. Sinai from Moses, burning bush and 10 commandment fame. We also did some off-road fun roading in a Hummer through red canyons in the area. And, I took a flight to Aqaba, Jordan from which I would take a 2 hour bus to see Petra. Phenomenal day trip but long. And with implications…

It’s the Little Glitches…

There was one little glitch in my independent travel. Specifically, the one to Jordan. You see, the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt is surrounded by extra security that you are told it’s “because of the Israelis” except that seaside towns on the east coast of the Sinai Peninsula are flooded by Israeli tourists so clearly their military are not about to invade. It is probably more because of the Bedouin who live in the remote areas of the peninsula and who do not get along with the central government from Cairo or its representatives on the peninsula (trust me, this matters to my story!). So, the area around Sharm-el-Sheikh in the Sinai Peninsula is actually a special zone. Special for military, special for foreigners. Europeans are a big market for this resort town and come in charter flights from everywhere in Europe. To attract them and make things easier, the visa requirement to get to Egypt doesn’t apply to get to Sharm-el-Sheikh. But if tourists who enter Egypt DIRECTLY by flying to Sharm want to go elsewhere in Egypt, they need to get a normal Egyptian tourist visa to cross through the checkpoints around this special security/tourism zone.

A Stereotype Helps Me

When I boarded the little plane to Jordan, I invalidated my entry visa into Egypt (I had entered through Cairo). No problem, I was returning to Sharm where I did not need a visa to get in (it was not that I had had one already for Egypt; that one was now invalidated when I left the country). Except no one told me as I cleared immigration at Sharm’s airport that there was this thing and that if I were going to Cairo, I would need a new visa to enter “mainland” Egypt which I could get right then and there. So, with this background, you can understand the setup and where this is headed.

I had to return to Cairo to catch my flight to Istanbul. So, I get instructions from the hotel on where the bus stop is, they hail me a taxi and I wait at the stop with other tourists and locals. I get on the bus, happily and ready to get back to Cairo. Not 10 minutes later we hit the first military/security checkpoint. They come on board and want to see everyone’s papers so I provide my passport. A few minutes later, I am made to get off the bus with my things. I am a little shocked but don’t want to challenge anyone with big guns. They explain to me I need a visa to “enter” Egypt. I say that I have one but they tell me that was voided when I left the country (they could see my Jordan entry/exit stamps – such efficiency I am sure is rare in Egyptian bureaucracy, except at this checkpoint!). So I ask if I can get the visa there but it is just a checkpoint on the road so I am told I need to go back to Sharm to the port (or the airport) to get the visa. They proceed to stop the next car coming the OTHER way and tell the guy he has to take me to Sharm, to the port. I have no idea what they literally said as I don’t speak Arabic. All I know is I am being told to get in this stranger’s car and that does not please me. Stereotypes can be valuable: this guy had a few dry cleaning items hanging from the backseat oh-shit handle so I took some measure of reassurance that maybe this guy was not a serial killer.

Re-Directed at the Port

He didn’t speak English so he just drove on with me in the car (I guess they do what they are told) and dropped me off at the port’s entrance (I offered him money which he refused – talk about setting me straight!) where two 18-year old guards with big guns greet me. They don’t understand me much but one takes me to the office building but only if I leave my large backpack and shoulder bag (with my more important valuables!) at the gate. Well, no choice but to comply. Off I go to the office, where I am told I need a stamp. I reply questioningly of the official: isn’t that what I am there for, to get the visa? The official says yes but the visa requires a stamp be bought from the bank; the stamp indicates that I paid for the visa so he can then stamp the passport. They don’t sell the stamps at the port so I am told to head into town to go to the bank and get the stamp and come back. Off I go, to claim my belongings hoping they are still all there. They are. The entrance to the port is on this little circle of a street off the main road in the middle of nowhere beyond the west end of Sharm, and not close to the main road. But providentially a taxi with a passenger is passing right by and I stop it.

The passenger is one of the many expats who live in Sharm who work in tourism. In her case in the boats that take people out to scuba. She is Italian and tells me she is trying to get to the drugstore intown and for some reason they went through this side road (it still makes no sense why as it is only a half-circle with nothing else but the port entrance). So we head intown and they drop me off at the bank.

Sorry, No Cigar at the Bank

I go to the big dark door and it is locked. I knock and eventually someone opens up and tells me they are closed for the rest of the day. I beg and plead that I just need this one stamp and would they please. No way. So I stand there going “what the heck” and he tells me to try at the airport where the bank’s branch there is likely open (I can’t remember if it was a Friday or just lunch hour break).

So, the airport is at the OPPOSITE end of Sharm-el-Sheikh. And I am running low on Egyptian pounds. Remember I was supposed to leave Egypt the next morning and my only expected expense after getting to Cairo would be dinner and hotel which I could pay with credit card so I was trying to not withdraw more local money. I hail a cab who takes me to the airport where, if I need to, I will withdraw more money thinking I will have a lot left over if I get money… At the airport, I face what looks like two tourist buses about to offload into the little security area to enter the terminal so I forget about the money question. I am itching to get back to catch the bus to Cairo before it gets too late. The taxi drops me right in front of the buses so I manage to avoid most people getting off and their drama.

Victory. I buy the darn stamp no problem and get another taxi to take me back to the port. I get to the port and my, by now, good friends at the gate are waving at me and smiling as they see me get off the taxi, as if seeing an old friend (I wonder what they were really thinking!). I know the routine so I drop the backpack but manage to take my shoulder bag with me to the office accompanied by one of the friendly soldiers. A clerk tells me his boss, the official I had spoken to earlier, had left for a few hours and that I should go and try later. At that point, I am taken over by a mix of outrage and acting skills.

Acting up at the Port

I huff, sit down on a chair and say I would wait as I need to make it to Cairo that night to catch my flight the next day at the crack of dawn. The clerk seems taken aback by my reaction and insists I need to leave and come back later. To me, that is the stupidest thing for many reasons. Where would I go with luggage and little cash (I had not withdrawn money at the airport)? What if I missed the official again when he came back? etc. So I said I was intending to wait and that was that. Immediately, I pull out my book (“History of the Arab Peoples”!) and plop down even further into my chair which clearly exasperates him. He goes off to his little desk and gets on the phone and starts what sounds like yelling and gesticulating. In Egypt that could be he is angry or just that he is telling his wife he loves her. It is hard to tell the difference. Time passes and I am flipping the book’s pages furiously as if I am actually reading it (I am not as I can’t focus at this point) and as if the book’s pages are to blame for this little chaos in my day. I wasn’t angry – but I was close to tears not for fear but for sheer frustration at what I could not control and at being in this situation because I didn’t research and because immigration at the Sharm airport had not offered information I could have needed…

What seems forever-later but probably was just 45 minutes, the official comes back not quite in his full uniform (official may make him sound too mundane a goverment person; he seemed to have a position of power in the port). He talks to the clerk and calls me into his office where he reviews my passport. He asks me “Did you give him money?” referring to the clerk. I realize I am at a critical juncture here. So I go with the truth and a twist. “No, should I have?” He shakes his head no, stamps the visa on the passport, and waves me off. I start walking out of the building faster with each step before anyone thinks of anything else for me to comply with. I smile at the guards, they are smiling at me, I pick up my stuff and wave these friendly guys goodbye.

Success Breeds the Need for a Plan to Get Out

Now to find a taxi with my luggage in this remote corner of Sharm. Nothing in sight. Not the random luck of the first time leaving the port. I start walking towards the main road when, around the bend and behind this massive rock, there in the shade is a taxi parked. Its driver is off to the side by the rock, with a pail of water cleansing his face and arms. I can’t believe my eyes (and I wish so badly I had taken a picture of this). But there he is and he is willing to take me back into town!!

I don’t quite know if the bus stop is the best place to go as it is barely a stop. I need to know when is the next bus to Cairo though I begin contemplating heading back to the airport and catching a flight and be done with the military checkpoints on the road – I don’t want to give bad luck a chance! But a flight would set me back money-wise a good bit. I decide it would be best to head back to the hotel (the Sanafir) since they were so helpful. They immediately get on the phone, make a few calls, and tell me a bus to Cairo is about to be at the bus stop in less than 10 minutes!! So they run outside with me, hail a cab, tell him where to take me, and tell him to do it fast. I like how they took ownership of helping me out!

I make it to the stop and get on the bus. Praying nothing else comes up at the checkpoint. It doesn’t. I am on my way to freaking Cairo to leave Egypt almost like Moses and his people. The main story ends here but let me drive it all the way home until I am at my hotel in Heliopolis.

The Bus Ride and the Finish Line

Since this stop is after the intown stop(s), the bus is pretty full. The bus was mostly Egyptians with a smattering of tourists (funnily, mostly towards the front). I sit near the back next to a fellow maybe my age that spoke some English. We speak a little bit until the movie started to play in the little overhead TVs: Speed. Let me tell you, that is not the movie you want to see while your bus is careening up the Sinai with ever-so-slight movements side-to-side… It eventually gets dark and I miss seeing the Suez Canal with any clarity so I can’t say I’ve seen it. But I don’t care at this moment. The guy and I pick up talking as we approach Cairo and I ask him how far my hotel is from the bus station. He tells me not far and that he will get his brother, who is picking him up, to drop me off on their way home. I cringe at getting into another stranger’s car but besides being close to out of money, I just don’t care anymore. I’ve had a long and action-packed day and I don’t care. I ask him for his address to send him a post card from Atlanta (which I did send) and proceed to take the ride to my hotel. I say my goodbyes and happily enter my hotel for a nice shower and bedtime as I have an early flight out.

So ends the story of my leaving the Sinai Peninsula. Had my friends been with me, it would have been a little more fun for sure. But I am glad I am tenacious and able to think things through on the spot. I just don’t like HAVING to do it like I did that day!!

One observation: I did not meet one single person that day that was rude to me. The bank guy was not rude, he was just neutral and did not care. The port clerk? He was probably going to be reprimanded for making his boss come back to the port from his afternoon break but he probably understood I needed the visa to leave and hence called him to come back. Most Egyptians along this experience were friendly and helpful. That (which matches experiences in Aswan and Luxor) is why I always think fondly of Egypt and its people. But lesson learned: traveler beware of visa requirements as they could vary WITHIN a country!!!