Nepal - ilivetotravel's travel log

Pashupatinath | A Unique Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal

8 January 2018 by Raul 1 Comment

Visiting a new place can make us feel out of sorts. That could be due to a number of reasons. Maybe just the climate being different. Or, the people behave in ways different than ours. Or, the food being different. That can be especially true when visiting a place with a different religion than the one(s) we know. That was true when I visited Kathmandu, Nepal. The city itself did not feel strange. Actually, it felt very comfortable there. But I visited a temple in Kathmandu that I was ill-prepared for.

Frankly, I felt very ambivalent about my presence there once I got there. And it was not the conceptual part of the site that threw me for a loop. It was more the sensory perceptions once at the place… but, before all that…

Intro to Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu

Before flying to Lukla to hike the Everest Base Camp trail, our agenda had us visiting the Pashupatinath Temple, on the banks of the Bagmati River in the east side of Kathmandu. It was a group activity for us trekkers so I went along. As usual, I was eager to see more of the city and explore more of the cultural and religious aspects of Nepal. Before getting there, we understood it was a Hindi religious site where, among other things, ritual cremations took place. First, a little more about this centuries-old Hindu temple.

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A bit up from cremation area is a bridge to cross into the main complex

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Many structures built upon the other over time

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Along the river bank after the bridge

Lord Pashupatinath is the national deity of Nepal. Therefore, this temple is one of the most important ones in the Hindu faith. When I speak about the temple, I actually refer to the overall complex of temples (big and small) and other religious sites around the main temple, which only people of the Hindu faith can actually enter. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This designates Pashupatinath as a place of unique importance and meaning to the world at large. It holds many religious festivals throughout the year – it must be quite a sight!

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Lattice work

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Close-up of the woodwork

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While non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, we got close to it and got to peek through the gate.

The main temple is built in a pagoda style and has a gilded roof. The area around the entrance was decorated with beautiful artwork that I am sure has a lot more meaning than I understand (it shows deities but I can’t really explain… if you, reader, know, leave a comment to educate us!). I was left wondering if it felt more solemn once inside…

Entrance to the main temple

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Close-up of the area above the entrance (Shiva)

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Close-up of the side of the entrance (Ganesha)

Detail on the outside walls of the main temple

Peeking in through the main temple gate (golden rear end of Nandi, Shiva’s bull)

The structures around the complex were not homogeneous. The materials and colors seemed diverse. Perhaps because of being built up over many centuries? The buildings and the architectural details caught my eye (and my lens). For sure, it was a lot to take in – it was a feast for the eyes. I didn’t know where to focus since it was all new to me.

Cool building – like all the wood work

Love this type of detail

Friends conversing

But the thoughts about my first visuals upon entering the complex lingered with me throughout the visit despite the great things I was looking at.

Entering the temple

When we arrived we had entered through a gate that brought us directly face-to-face with the cremation area by the river.

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Our first sighting of the temple was the ‘ghats’ where the bodies are cremated

There were monkeys all over the place. Not sure if they like being by the water, if they are all over, or what.

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One of the many…

Cremations at Pashupatinath

In any case, the area where the cremations take place can hold several cremations at the same time on either side of the river. The body of the departed is placed on a “platform” (or ‘ghat’). This platform juts out into the river a little. On this platform the funerary pyre is set. The side of the river close to the entrance we took is simpler whereas the opposite river bank offers more shade for the relatives and friends of the recently departed. Behind that area there are several structures at a higher level. We were told that if the families have come from a long way, they may stay there.

Once the ritual cremation is done, the embers are allowed to die down. Then, the ashes (and anything else that remains) are thrown into the river. The hope is that those remains reach the Ganges River, one of the most sacred rivers of the Hindu faith. Relatives of the departed step into the river as part of the cremation ritual. Hence, the steps that form the river banks at the temple.

Finishing cleaning up the area

Preparing for a cremation

Visiting this temple in Kathmandu gave more than I was ready for

I knew that this was a religious practice as I had witnessed, via TV, the funerals of people like Indira Gandhi and others of the Hindu faith who were cremated in similar fashion (open-air as part of a religious ritual). So as I entered the complex, I felt “aware.” Going to a temple in Kathmandu surely would not provide a surreal experience, right?

And then the smells generated by the cremations hit me. To say I was unprepared for that is a massive understatement. I had not stopped to think ahead of time about how it would feel to be physically present (not just in front of a TV or computer screen) at an open-air cremation.

We were quite far from the river’s edge when the smell reached us. What made it uncomfortable was that it reminded me of the smell at a cookout back home but I knew this was an important religious ritual we were seeing from a distance. It was disconcerting, feeling guilty about making that comparison mentally, about thinking that I was in person seeing something that I would never expect to see back home as an eyewitness. As I stood there, I hesitated on taking any picture of the scene but decided to do it as it would be from a good bit of a distance away and I felt I was doing so with a respectful intent.

Experiencing the world through travel is not always easy

Looking at those photos today, all the feelings come rushing back: my awkwardness with the moment, the sensory memories… But, traveling is about expanding one’s understanding of the world, about learning of others’ perspectives and beliefs, and about being OK with not always being comfortable with what one comes across. I struggle with saying I am glad I had that experience – I am not sure I can say I am “glad.” And I will have to be OK with that. But I am glad to have learned more about the meaning of what I witnessed to the faithful for whom this is supremely important…

Not sure what this prayer man is called but photo highlights what this place is about

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How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

2 January 2018 by Raul 3 Comments

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience. Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train. Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience. In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp. While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine. In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live: they are parks. But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand. Either way, the result is the same. One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience. It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return. That was OK with me. In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around. (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”. See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed. I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route. I also discovered the more impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!). The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft). EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft). So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night). Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous. (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar). Sleeping quarters are not heated. And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center. So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along. There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff. So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics. But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten. Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

Upper Body and Legs: The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost. Layers are key to both. Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan. Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood. The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice. It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
Feet: The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable. Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet. Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places. You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots. The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space. Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
Hands: Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must. You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
Head: A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know. You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).

Gear and other practical items

Sleeping bag: While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen. So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring. I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated. Very much needed!
Night light: When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc. Don’t forget batteries!
Pillow: A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow. I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

Trekking poles: Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support. Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!
Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar
Water: Treating water is very important. A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal. Batteries are the big thing here. Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it. Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through. Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen. I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack. It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.

Wipies/Tissues: These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty. Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around. Or other general cleaning purposes! [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
Towel: A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels. Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold. Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…

Medications and first aid: The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances. But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc. Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs. Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within. Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request. The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
Personal items: The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc. Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).

And, of course, duct tape! Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs! I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest! Pin it to your board!

If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below. I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!). Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Himalayas, Nepal Tagged With: adventure, Everest, hiking, Himalayan teahouse, Himalayas, Nepal, outdoors, pack for everest, packing list, tips for everest case bamp, travel, trekking

Swayambhunath – A Special Place in Kathmandu

5 September 2016 by Raul 4 Comments

Kathmandu is an amazing city. Colorful and busy. Yet, somehow spirituality seems to permeate it. Among the many places that back that impression is the Swayambhunath site – also just known as the monkey site. I don’t know that it is technically a temple but it is certainly an important Buddhist religious site. Claims about when it was first established range from the 6th century A.D. to the 3rd B.C.! Let’s settle on “it’s old.”

Beauty everywhere

The site’s shrines and other structures dot the hillside and are packed at the hilltop. I wish I had had a guide to make sure I understood the meaning of the different types of structures and figures sculpted in them. Here is a glimpse of some of the sights on the site.

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Prayer wheels

The earthquake changed it

The many shrines and temple-like structures included more than you can see today. Sadly, the earthquake of April 2015 knocked down one of the two towers, and severely damaged the other one and many other structures. Yet, it seems many survived OK which is a blessing at such an important site.

The surviving tower

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The base of the collapsed tower

Damage from the earthquake

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Serious crack under the large stoupa with prayer wheels around it

Eye gotta stupa for you…

More impressive than anything else on the site is the stupa with the painted eyes on it. They follow you around… They are Buddha’s eyes and eyebrows… It is said it is over 1,500 years old though it has been renovated many times in its long life.

The eyes on the golden tower in the stoupa

See? They are watching you…

Monkeys R Us

But, the way I heard of this place for the first time was because of the monkeys. The many monkeys that reside on the place. Big and small, they are everywhere. Yet, much as they must be used to people, they were not climbing over folks. They were very well-behaved!

Baby monkeys – a fertile place!

Curious monkeys

Getting to view Kathmandu from up high

The site is located on a tall hill that offers great views of Kathmandu. The main approach is a rather long and steep set of steps on the east side of the hill. LOOOONG! (365 steps to be more precise) But, unbeknownst to me, our driver was taking us to a point that maybe was 2/3 of the way around the back so our climb was not as severe. Now, now, don’t be poking fun. I had just spent 5 days hiking on the Everest Base Camp trail so saving steps was relief of sorts…

Sweeping view of Kathmandu – and a passing bird!

I must say that though at first visiting a place full of monkeys did not thrill me, the place’s charm and the faith it represents was captivating. I enjoyed spending time there and would recommend taking the time to connect with this bit of Kathmandu!

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Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

11 April 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back. As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin. This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche. This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post. And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s. We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below. A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right. This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek. Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

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Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area: Ama Dablam. It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker. Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house. Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite. Sometimes one, sometimes the other. Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun. A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

Lemon tea, anyone? One or two glasses…

Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand. They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb. I was torn. On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating). I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch… But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit. So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?). In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours. The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon. It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal. We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world. And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

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Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

Lots of color and detail

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche. With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away! Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek. Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too. The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had. I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me. We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

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Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly. There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water. I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer… The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature. Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning… Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change: a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche… The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari). It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors. That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways. We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail… While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal: the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.

Want to start at the beginning of this trek? Here is day 1. Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.

Pin this beautiful image to your board!

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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

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Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

4 April 2016 by Raul 9 Comments

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp. I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great. I think the group as a whole liked it a lot. Good start to our time in Namche! (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this. I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

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The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner. I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp. It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style. Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight! (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…). Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

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View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain). We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day. The short hike was steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point. There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

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At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established. It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

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Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

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Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

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Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte. Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!

View from the lodge’s dining room

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Read on: Day 4 – To my turning point: Deboche

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Nepal Tagged With: base camp, Everest, Everest Base Camp route, hiking, Himalayas, Khumbu Lodge, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, trek, trekking

Happy 2016!

31 December 2015 by Raul 1 Comment

Just wanted to do a quick post in the last few hours of the year here to share my top Instagram pictures. Some are very recent but it was cool to see some of the ones from earlier in the year – it seems so far away, like longer than a year. Sometimes, that’s how things go, isn’t it?

In any case, here is my top 9 photos from 2015. A good year in many, many ways; and a tough year in others.

May 2016 bring you many good things wherever you are!

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Argentina, Chile, Portland, Tampa, and Nepal all represented!

Filed Under: Special Photos, Travel Journal Tagged With: argentina, Chile, lighthouse, Nepal, Patagonia, photos, Portland, sky, tampa, travel, waterfall

2015 – A Year in Review

22 December 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

2015 is almost over and it is time for the year in review which, I think, is an exercise not just in writing but in re-living the many blessings the year bestowed on me. Here it goes and share with me some of the travels in your 2015!

In the city of brotherly love – Philadelphia, USA

My first trip of the year was to Philadelphia where family and friends live. It is a place I love to visit though I do not get to do so often. I welcome the opportunity whenever it comes though as I greatly enjoy spending time with my aunt and uncle who make me feel so at home whenever I go. Though I got to see many, I did not get to see all my relatives nor all my friends which was a bummer – but good reason to go back! As usual, my uncle likes to show me around places historical to both country and family. I had not visited Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell since the early 90s and I enjoyed my visit there. We also went to Valley Forge which had a special look since it was winter-time (and was also very cold!).

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Liberty Bell with Independence Hall behind it

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Independence Hall across the mall

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Valley Forge in winter – reminder of the cost of our freedom

Now, those places are not where the family history comes from 🙂 instead this building served as their home right after they moved up there from Miami.

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House where my parents and relatives lived

My first hike of the year – Blood Mountain, Georgia, USA

My first hike of the year was a training hike as I was going on a trek to Patagonia with Trekking for Kids. My friend Phil who also enjoys hiking and I decided to do a hike near Blood Mountain that ended up -accidentally- in a climb of Blood Mountain. While it was unplanned, it was a fortunate ‘accident’ as it all ended well and we enjoyed great vistas and trails.

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Entering Freeman Trail from the Appalachian Trail

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Along Jarrard Gap, the start of our hike

An amazing metropolis – Buenos Aires, Argentina

The orphanage work related to my trek to Patagonia was going to take place on the outskirts of Buenos Aires, capital of Argentina. So I knew I was going to be spending time in this great city – and more importantly, eating the best beef in the world paired with great wine! I enjoyed walking about town and having nice meals with my fellow trekkers (some which I knew already and some which I met there).

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The parrillada at Campo Bravo

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Don’t forget dessert: this beauty courtesy of Cabaña Las Lilas

But the best part was meeting the children and staff of the two homes we worked with on our projects which included repairing a very leaky roof and damaged walls and furniture. Much as I loved spending time in BB.AA., this work was the highlight of my time there!

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Painting new furniture with the kids was an adventure onto itself!

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These kids were hard workers and also great with the soccer ball!

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At Temaiken, Buenos Aires’ zoo

Back in time – Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

When planning my Buenos Aires travel, I decided to add an extra day to cross the river by ferry and spend half a day exploring a town that was a good throwback to the colonial period of the region: Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. I sold three other trekkers on doing this short trip with me and we had a great time walking the streets of this easy-going town. I highly recommend making the crossing if you ever have time in Buenos Aires!

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One of the MANY vintage vehicles in town – an Austin

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Basilica del Sagrado Sacramento

My favorite spot on Earth – Chile’s Patagonia

As I wrote earlier this year, I loved Patagonia when I first visited the Perito Moreno glacier and Chile‘s amazing Patagonia in 2010. I’d always hoped I could return some day and that did happen… in 2015, much sooner than I’d ever thought possible. I returned to hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina, re-visit the Perito Moreno glacier, and then trek through the Torres del Paine National Park – which I had not done in 2010. And it was a rewarding effort for sure with great vistas and a glacier hike to boot. Memorable is not a good enough word for the experience. And, secretly, I hope I get to return a second time for my third visit!! (click on the hyperlinks above to see more photos from each of the visits)

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Grey glacier, where we hiked

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On the trail to Fitz Roy

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The Torres del Paine massif

The great northwest – Portland, Oregon

Thanks to work, I spent five days in Portland, Oregon. I had never been to Oregon so it was cool that I got to go there. I arrived at mid-day on a Sunday and decided to take a walking tour of Portland as it would be the most effective way to see the highlights of the town while enjoying the great weather.

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Portland street

Mercifully, daylight went on late so I got to take advantage of it to take a drive along the Columbia River to see the waterfalls that dot the riverside. I also got to enjoy dinners in establishments along either side of the river which was a phenomenal day to end the workday.

Family, friends and food fest (4 F’s) – Spain, olé!

Friends of mine were going to hike the Camino de Santiago, a hike I did in 2014. I thought it would be cool to combine my wish to meet relatives I had not met who live in the outskirts of Santiago with my friends’ arrival in Santiago de Compostela. My grandmother has two surviving cousins she never met in person who live in Bastavales. I had met one of them last year when I finished the Camino walk but I had not met the other. So I met María and her son, grandkids and great-grandkids for the first time and enjoyed their warmth and sharing special memories and photos of the family. I also visited time with Flora, the cousin I had met last year. It was really cool.

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With Maria, my grandmother’s cousin

I then welcomed my friends and their fellow trekkers as they arrived in Santiago at the end of their Camino. It was wonderful seeing them glow in joy as they wrapped their long walk. After they got their Compostela and going to Pilgrim’s Mass, it was time to celebrate with some cañas (beer) and tapas in one of the many beautiful old streets of this phenomenal city. We also took a day trip to Finisterre on the Atlantic coast, a nice place.

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Beer and tapas in Santiago de Compostela

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The left side of the Cathedral

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With friends Phil and Tommy at Finisterre

The visit with my friends continued in Madrid and, after they left, I got to spend time with madrileños friend of mine, enjoying good drinks, food, and atmosphere around town. It was fun spending more time in Madrid (check out “6 Cool Things to Do in Madrid“!). I love Spain but I loved more the opportunity to be there with friends!

Reuniting with dear friends – California

In late May, dear friends left Atlanta to head to California due to a job opportunity. It was hard to see them go as I spent many a Friday night over ten years hanging out with them pre-kids and after-kids. So, it was great when work offered me the opportunity to go to San Francisco so I could spend the weekend after the conference with them in their home outside of San Jose. They took me to two great Mexican restaurants, one of them right by where they live. I enjoyed a drive down Pebble Beach on the famous 17-mile drive (which I still have to write about!). And we visited the charming coastal town of Carmel – and its impressive mission.

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Glorious skies at the Carmel Mission

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Waters along the 17-Mile drive

Up-north (WAY up north) – Duluth, Minnesota

Work took me for a brief business trip up north, to a small town 45 mins north of Duluth, Minnesota. Driving along the coast of Lake Superior was very nice and peaceful. We only had one night in Duluth but enjoyed a nice breakfast at a mom-and-pop type of place and dinner at a pub. Of course, being the traveler that I am, never having gone to Wisconsin, and realizing I was just a bridge-crossing, I just had to do it… We had mostly an open morning so, along with a colleague, I drove across the water to a coffee shop I found online in the town of Superior, Wisconsin! A coffee later, we crossed the bridge again and back in Minnesota!

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Wisconsin, here we come!

Returning to one my favorites – Chicago, Illinois

I first went to Chicago in a bitterly cold January in 1991 with company for training. And I kept returning over the years mainly in winter. This year I got to go in August for pleasure, after spending a few days in Minnesota for work. I got to enjoy walking everywhere, getting to the lake, which I had never done. I also explored new parts of town thanks to friends (including little gems in terms of eateries). Overall, what I enjoyed most about this trip was a first for me in Chicago: going to a museum! The Art Institute of Chicago was right up my alley as very much an amateur in terms of art. It made it all approachable and enjoyable without overwhelming. I highly recommend it. I look forward to returning to Chicago and having more time to see all the friends who live there (this was practically a day-and-a-half visit) – and explore a new museum or two!

An epic trek to close the year – on the route to Everest Base Camp, Nepal

I was not planning any other hike on 2015 after having done Patagonia earlier in the year. However, I found out that several folks I knew from prior treks were going to do the trek to Everest Base Camp and I started wondering if I could go… I was generally fit even if not well-trained, it was a generally good time to go from a work standpoint, and though I did not have vacation time to be able to go to base camp, the trek offered a shorter itinerary. So, I went for it. I had a great time and was thrilled to having seen the Himalayas, Mt. Everest, and the hamlets and people of the highlands of Nepal. I am still writing about the trek so I will just point you to a couple of the writings: flying into scary Lukla airport to begin the hike, day one of the hike (you can keep going from there to later days), and one of the neat sites I saw in Kathmandu. The best part of the trek was the work done before the trek in the village of Kumari. Check out the work we did with Trekking for Kids here.

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The prayer wheels

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Kids from Kumari

Epilogue to a year that ends…

2015 was an epic year. From great hiking experiences, time with family and friends, new destinations, and good food and drinks, it had it all. I got to step in South America, North America, Asia, and Europe all in one year! However, as the year came to a close, we lost my stepdad, Rubén. It was a bittersweet time as he had been suffering from Alzheimer‘s and his last week was one full of suffering. So his passing offered him rest that we were thankful for, sad as it was to not have him around us any more. Rubén, as my Mom, loved to travel. They traveled across Europe and other places many times. I got to travel with them and my sister and her family in several cruises to the Caribbean, Alaska, and the Baltic Sea, as well as explore places like Copenhagen, Panama, and Paris (where they visited me in 1999 when I was living there). Though we will sorely miss him in this final journey he has undertaken, I know I will see again at the final destination. Until then, I will continuing journeying here. Rest in peace, Rubén!

In Panama in 2009

Filed Under: Travel Journal, Year in Review Tagged With: argentina, Blood Mountain, Chicago, Chile, Colonia, Compostela, food, Georgia, hiking, Madrid, Nepal, Oregon, Patagonia, Pebble Beach, Philadelphia, Portland, Santiago, spain, trekking, Trekking for Kids, Uruguay, Wisconsin

Hiking in Nepal: On the Way to Namche Bazaar! (Day 2)

14 December 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

On Day 2, we left our teahouse in the tiny spot of Tok Tok (9,000 ft / 2,800 m) at around 8:45AM to head, following the route to Everest Base Camp, to Namche Bazaar, a rather bigger town than most in the area (actually, THE biggest). This would have us climb over 2,000 ft in the last 2.5 hours of the hike that day, a rather ambitious and challenging effort (except for the super fit and those used to the altitude, perhaps – I fell under neither success category…).

Leaving our spot in Tok Tok, we stood for a group photo as one of the trekkers was not continuing beyond Tok Tok.

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Group photo!

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Our first bridge of the day was right outside the teahouse – watch out for the pack animals!

On the trail to Everest Base Camp…

Soon thereafter, off we went walking on terrain that was becoming familiar to us: rocks, dirt, steps, pack animals, farms, debris from the earthquake, reconstruction, and the river. It is a rugged but peaceful terrain; except when the pack animals come – at that point you make a quick move towards the inside of the trail, not the side facing the steep dropoff! On this day, we would cross the river four times if memory serves me right.

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Steep climbs every day!

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Pack animals: these were carrying a very light load

Typical stop for trekkers

Entering the Sagarmatha National Park

Later that morning, we officially entered the Sagarmatha National Park (which is the park where Mt. Everest sits) via the Jorsalle gate (which is right outside of Monju on the way to Jorsalle). There was signage offering good advice for trekkers in dealing with acute mountain sickness (there are always those who are unprepared…). More importantly we passed a traditional kani gate which incorporates prayer wheels and colorful paintings on the walls and ceilings. This gate marks our entrance in the sacred valley of the Sherpa (a term that refers to an ethnic group, not a job, as we learned…): the Khumbu. I loved the rules suggested to those who enter the valley (see photo).

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The kani gate marking the entrance to the sacred valley

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Ceiling painting

Wall painting and the ever-present prayer wheels at the kani gate

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Warnings about acute mountain sickness

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Follow these rules!

Breaks from the trail: tea and food

While the actual walk is rewarding despite the challenging parts, one of my favorite moments is when we stop 🙂 Yes, it is about getting a break from the effort. But it is also about the camaraderie over that cup of tea, lemon or mint with the latter being my favorite. As we all have different paces, non-walking time is when we get to share with those we don’t keep up pace with (or those who can’t slow down easily!). After tackling the first mile (which was not a walk in the park), we made a restroom stop at Benkar but did not even sit- this was not our morning break for tea.

Brief stop to use the ‘facilities’ and take a snack out

Resuming our hike with a nice downhill

So we trudged along and, after we entered the Sagarmatha NP, we later hit our morning break at Monju (or Monzo) at a place that I would stop at on the way back to Lukla. The outdoor terrace was very spacious and comfortable (perhaps because we were the only ‘crowd’ there) and the temperature was great so we enjoyed sitting in the terrace sipping our tea!

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Tea time in Monju!

And then we proceeded to Jorsalle where, not 30 minutes later, we would have lunch outdoors by the river at a teahouse there. It was a great stopping point right by the trail (as most are). It was a good break before the final push, and I mean PUSH, to Namche Bazaar – we would be starting a serious vertical climb over a rather short horizontal distance. Heaven help me! We left our lunch ‘resting place’ at around 1 PM.

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Approaching Jorsalle, our lunch ‘town’

Lunch time in the sun!

Bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River

Before I get to the monster climb… This day was made fun by the many bridges low and high, short and long we would cross. If you are not a fan of suspension bridges, this may not be your favorite day but the most important thing to mind are the pack animals, not the height of the bridges! Here are some images from the “day in bridges.”

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Pack animals have right of way – if you are smart!

Lovely scenery from the bridge’s vantage point

One of the smaller bridges we dealt with

Beautiful spot (notice the prayer flags)!

Loved walking this close to the Dudh Koshi River

And then we got to this… (the bottom bridge is closed now)

And we are about to walk across the highest one!

View down from the highest suspension bridge

And our awesome endpoint: Namche Bazaar

The route to Everest Base Camp is not a steady uphill. No place ever is (even Mt. Kilimanjaro has its downhills as you climb) but this was as much going down as you have gone up in many stretches.

In fact, this day, on a 5.3-mile (8.5 km) route, our net climb was around 2,300 ft (about 800 m) – we climbed much more (upwards of 4,000 ft) and descended a good bit. But after lunch what we faced was mostly a severe uphill, especially after the last suspension bridge (the highest one). And the trail was very rugged to boot. Hard stuff. I didn’t know how I could finish it. And remember, we were climbing to our end point at over 11,300 ft (3,400 m) so the thin air was having an impact (as a reference point, once in Namche Bazaar, we would be at 67% oxygen level vs. sea level!!). I had to stop every now and then just to catch my breath especially after a stretch where the ‘steps’ (rocks) were higher. Not knowing how much more I really had was both a blessing and a curse. Certainly I would not want to know how much more most of the way but maybe during the last 30 minutes I would have wanted to know that Namche was THAT close.

With the incredible climb at the end, Namche Bazaar could not have come sooner. So, it was awesome when we rounded a corner about 2.5 hours after lunch and we saw this town incredibly nested in what looked like mother nature’s own amphitheater: Namche Bazaar! It was a photo op moment for sure and we had earned the rest day coming up on Day 3!

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I shall name this photo: “The first time I saw sweet Namche”

The moment I stopped when I rounded the corner – best moment ever!

My trek roommate and I celebrating we had survived

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Check out other related posts!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Himalayas, Nepal Tagged With: base camp, Everest, Everest Base Camp route, hiking, Himalayas, Khumbu, Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Tok Tok, trek, trekking

Hiking in Nepal: Lukla to Tok Tok (Day 1)

4 December 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

My trek in the Himalayas followed the route to Everest Base Camp. I only had two weeks’ vacation so I was short one week to make it all the way to “EBC” since my visit to Nepal included an extra number of days to help in the re-building of a school that was destroyed during the April 2015 earthquake in the village of Kumari. It was a great trip and I did not want to miss seeing Mount Everest in person. Making that decision was not the hardest part, figuring out what I need to take was! (Read here for how I packed for the trek!)

However, I went on this trek with Trekking for Kids because I knew some of the folks going and it was not a bad time to be away from work (is there ever a good time??). So my trek was going to be from Lukla to Deboche, past the Tengboche monastery. As it turned out, that ended up being a good choice since my stepfather died back home the day before I left Nepal for home. But, before that turn of events, I was already glad I had chosen to not go all the way.

Day 1 took us from Lukla (2,860 metres (9,383 ft)) to Tok Tok (2,760 metres (9,o55 ft)). While an overall descent, there were plenty of climbs and descents along the way!

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Our starting point and ending point for day 1

Starting the trek: getting to Lukla

Starting the trek in Lukla required first getting to Lukla. As I shared in an earlier post, either one does a local bus and then a few days’ hike to get to Lukla or one flies into one of the “most dangerous” airports in the world: Lukla (LUA). I did the latter for a couple of good reasons: that was what was pre-planned by Trekking for Kids and I didn’t have enough vacation time anyway!

You can read the details in the earlier post but the short of it is: I made it to Lukla alive and without too much suffering 🙂

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The Lukla airport – a very short and dramatic runway!

Getting the trek going: leaving Lukla

After we landed in Lukla, getting our bags was a piece of cake (the airport is tiny, after all). From there to our breakfast stop (at a hotel we would return to at the end of the trek) was a very short walk (Lukla is tiny, after all). We got there and, as we had left Kathmandu at the literal crack of dawn, we proceeded to have some breakfast before heading out. Our guides had to sort our things with the porters we were picking up in Lukla so we had ample time. I can’t really recall what I had but nothing too heavy as we were leaving for a few hours’ hike.Everyone was itching to go and, when we finally did, I think we had a little bit of adrenaline flowing! Close to leaving Lukla, we came to our first gate and prayer wheels and the backdrop was phenomenal in the deep blue sky ahead. It was a sign of the great day ahead!

Though we started the hike at over 9,000 ft, we warmed up pretty quickly as the hike progressed. It felt so good! Hamlets in this part of Nepal are charming probably because of the color applied to the window and door frames and we started noticing this early on.

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Approaching a hamlet

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House along the trek route

We crossed our first hanging bridge on this day (one of two hanging bridges that day). It was not too high (I am not afraid of heights, thankfully) and it was certainly long. We would follow this river all the way to near Namche Bazaar. We also crossed another bridge, a truss one, that day. I noticed that some parts of the route, as it passed through small “hamlets,” were paved with stones while others were dirt paths. It was nice to have the variation in the route – just like it was nice to have all the uphills and downhills mixed.

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Approaching the Dhudh Kosi River and the hanging bridge

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Beautiful waters, courtesy of glacierland!

Buddhist faith along the route

Along the way we passed different-sized prayer wheels and collections of Tibetan tablets (in sanskrit) that are so iconic and that speak to the concreteness of the faith in that region of Asia. I tried to not miss spinning prayer wheels and we certainly made sure we passed the “monuments” on their left as tradition/faith requires.

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Sanskrit tablets and a stupa

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A prayer wheel asking to be spun

A hiker has to eat!

Along the way we stopped for lunch at a beautiful spot where the route made a 90-degree angle. The place, the Wind Horse Lodge and Restaurant was a perfect spot, idyllic, for the stop. We sat outside at tables on the small lawn, graced by marigolds along the edges. Until clouds rolled over and it started getting cold. We promptly found tables indoors and the lunch was pretty darn good: fried noodles and rice along with fried mini empanadas (my Latin roots betray me as that is not what they call them there!).

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Lunch!

Ending our hike in Tok Tok

Bellies full and feet rested, we proceeded on our hike. I try on these treks to not study the route we are going to take as I don’t want to be “expecting” the next stop or calculating how much longer we have to go – I want to enjoy the moment though, I admit, at times when I am feeling tired, I start trying to figure out how much longer I have to go 🙂

We arrived at our teahouse in Tok Tok (River View Lodge) and, as usual, it is a great feeling to hear the words “We are here” when we arrive at our resting place for the night! It was a tiny spot nestled between a hill and the river. I wish it had been a tad warmer to stay outside in the evening.

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My room at the teahouse

The dining room (aka, hanging out room) at the teahouse

In the end, it was a spectacular first day trekking in the Himalayas and I slept well that night! I leave you with one of my favorite views from that day!

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Just magnificent

Kathmandu’s Great Boudha Stupa – Still There after the Earthquake

1 December 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

One of the most beautiful sites in Kathmandu, Nepal is its Great Boudha Stupa (or Boudhanath Stupa). First and foremost, it is a beautiful statement of faith, the largest such Buddhist structure in Nepal and the largest outside of any in Tibet. That Kathmandu’s Great Boudha Stupa is pleasing to my eyes is a far second from that but, still, for this first time visitor to areas with a strong Buddhist influence, its physical beauty is indeed powerful.

Sadly, I only got to see if after the earthquake of April 2015 so I missed seeing the stupa tower, the lotus, and the umbrella portions of the stupa which came tumbling down with the quake.

ticket, entrance pass, Great Boudha, stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal, Buddhist, Buddhism, travel, tourism — The Great Boudha Stupa

The stupa: a place for faith

The stupa is very large in diameter. The faithful, and those of us who respect them, walk around in a clockwise direction turning the prayers wheels with their prayers and stopping at different points for prayer. The faithful believe one of the earlier Buddhas is buried under the dome of the structure.

Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, prayer wheel, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism, marigold — People stopping for prayers along the way

Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, marigold, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism — Marigolds everywhere add color

There are some monasteries around it but the buildings around it also house shops and workshops where local artists create their pieces.

Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism — The district around the stupa

Lhakhang, monastery, Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism — Lhakhang Monastery

My favorite visit was to a shop with its associated workshop on the second story. We got a nice explanation of the “emblematic” paintings we laymen just associate with Tibet and saw a few of the artists at work, painstakingly working on their creation.

Tibetan art, painting, Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism — Artist at work

The stupa: a place of beauty

Halfway around our walk, we got up and a little closer to the dome which still remains unapproachable due to damage for the quake and on-going repairs to the site. From there, one gets to higher ground to look around and get closer to the items near the dome. I leave you with some final photos that are evocative of the beauty of the entire site!

Great Boudha Stupa, stupa, dome, Buddhist, Buddhism, Kathmandu, Nepal, Samsung Galaxy, travel, tourism, color — The damage to the dome is evident

Filed Under: Asia, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bodnath, Boudha, Boudhanath, Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Kathmandu, Nepal, stupa, temple, Tibet, tourism, travel

Building a School in Kumari, Nepal

26 November 2015 by Raul 8 Comments

Prior to my trek in the Himalayas along the route to Everest Base Camp, I spent 3 days in the village of Kumari, Nepal thanks to Trekking for Kids‘ work to support this village. The village, as many places in Nepal, was severely impacted by the April 2015 earthquake that struck the country.

The recently-built medical clinic was quite damaged and the school that served about 400 children was pretty much destroyed.

Nepal, earthquake, damage, Kumari, medical clinic, Nuwakot

Most damaged part of the clinic

Trekking for Kids had planned a trip to Nepal (it has been going there for years to bring hope to orphaned kids via its treks) and chose to direct the funds raised by us trekkers towards the re-construction of the school. The school certainly will provide a better environment for the kids to receive education but it will also encourage parents to send the kids to school which helps reduce the risk that human trafficking poses for these children.

Kumari, Shree Bikash, school, Nuwakot, Nepal, Trekking for Kids, voluntourism, service, Samsung Galaxy

Makeshifts structures -and outdoor spaces- serve as temporary classrooms

Teacher holding class outdoor

Our stay in Kumari

We left Kathmandu on our way to Kumari, a village development center in the Nuwakot district. Though it seems to be about 30 miles from Kathmandu, as the eagle flies, it took us about 3.5 hours. The first 1.5 hrs were on a paved road that we left after a quick stop at a roadside kiosk. From then on, we took a dirt and bumpy road that in the rainy season is impassable, driving past terraced hills and lots of green. Occasionally we would pass small rural homes and saw a little bit of life in the countryside.

In Kumari, we stayed in the medical clinic compound, a very large space that was fenced and gated. The medical clinic laid near the far end and had been badly damaged by the April 2015 quake. Though damaged, a couple of spaces were still in use for examinations and to house the pharmacy. Behind the clinic, there was a small structure housing the women’s and the men’s restrooms (2 stalls each) plus one basic shower. Along the sides of the compound were tents used by our group and others supporting the construction work and our visit. I imagine the tents were donated post-quake to help with temporary housing for locals but I think I heard tents were not very successful in Nepal as they were too foreign for regular folks. Not sure if our tents were indeed originally intended for that temporary shelter but they look pretty clean and unused. I will have to say that they were a little larger than the small two-people tents I have used before so I was glad for the extra “comfort.”

Sukman, medical clinic, polyclinic, Kumari, Nuwakot, Nepal, photo, Samsung Galaxy

The Sukman Memorial Polyclinic, our tents to the right

Staying in the compound was far better than I had been expected. The grounds are well kept, the indoor restroom was a pleasant surprise, and though I only used it one of the 3 days, it was nice to take a shower after a day’s hard work. The compound also had a kitchen and outdoor (covered) seating area so all our meals were there. I tended to wake up very early and enjoyed a cup of tea while soaking in the quiet and sunrise. It was a little cold at night but not frigid. We were a 5-minute walk to the work site (the school grounds) so all-in-all, I was pleased with the setup they had prepared to host us, not having too much time traveling to- and from- the work site so we could maximize time at the site.

A grand Kumari welcome!

When our small caravan was approaching the medical compound, we noticed a lot of people were there waiting for us. The more we walked, the more it seemed the entire district had come to welcome us. We left our stuff in the cars (someone would take care of that) and after an initial greeting which included music, we were taken up a dirt road towards the school grounds which were located above the medical compound.

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, voluntourism, trekking

Walking from the clinic to the school grounds

As we made the final turn up the dirt road that passes the school grounds, we noticed schoolchildren were lined up waiting for us – loaded with long necklaces made from orange marigolds (like Hawaiian leis). As we walked along the kids, teachers, and others, these “leis” were placed on our necks. They must have spent long days making these (the flowers were all fresh)!! Some of us ended with a heavy yoke of these leis around our necks but it was a very joyful welcome – much appreciated!

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, marigold, schoolchildren

Schoolchildren awaiting us with the marigold necklaces!

Marigold, necklace, lei, trekkers, Trekking for Kids, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Some of us sporting the massive and heavy leis

After we got to the covered space that had been set up for the welcome ceremony, we took our seats and then all the children and other locals stood behind us. At the end of the ceremony, 3 hours later or so, I was very impressed the locals stayed the entire time, in the sun. There were some local figures present but maybe the draw was the two emcees (MCs) who I take had come from Kathmandu and were well-known. The ceremony entailed many speeches in Nepali or in English as well as some dances/songs by the local kids. I soaked it all in though, at that point, none of us had eaten anything since breakfast and I, for one, was hungry and trying hard not to pull something out of my day pack when so many in the crowd were probably as hungry as I was.

Mukari, Nuwakot, Nepal, trekking for kids, photo, school children, Samsung Galaxy, travel, voluntourism

School administrators, civic organizers, the MCs and the trekkers

Sweat equity

Trekkers like me commit to fundraise $1,000 towards the projects chosen for the specific trek. The projects funded are normally anchored on capital improvements or new infrastructure. In this Nepal trek, the school was the main project our funds would support. I am proud to say that my group of trekkers and I raised over $33,000, much higher than the minimum we each committed to raise (thanks to any of you who donated!). This allowed us to also fund the construction of new indoor restroom facilities at the school, something the children had never had before: one restroom with several stalls for the girls, and the same for the boys. When I go in these treks, I often leave pondering the things I have taken for granted all my life… and I am humbled at the blessings in my life.

Shree Bikash, school, Kumari, Nuwakot, Nepal, construction

Plans for the new school

One of the three days was focused on us pitching in in the construction efforts. Trekking for Kids’ approach is to ensure local labor performs the projects and local materials are used. But trekkers get to get down and dirty lending a hand. In these projects, trekkers got to help both with preparing the foundation for two of the new school buildings as well as with pouring the new roof for the restroom building.

Kumari, Shree Bikash, school, Nuwakot, Nepal, Trekking for Kids, voluntourism, service, Samsung Galaxy, construction

Foundation trenches completed, next step was to lay rocks at the bottom

I worked in the crew that helped dig the trenches for the school buildings’ foundations and then “harvested” rocks from the debris field from the former school building from the side of the hill and tossed them (via human chain) up to fill the bottom layer of the trenches. While we were happy to help, it was clear the locals who worked on the project and the local teen youth group that was volunteering to help were much more effective and fast than we were… It was certainly an honor to be able to humble ourselves for such a good cause.

Other trekkers helped prep the restroom roof before the concrete was poured by framing the area and cutting and setting up the rebar. At the point the concrete was being mixed and poured, the locals took over. It was interesting to watch their methods!

Rebar, Nepal, Kumari, school, Trekking for Kids, voluntourism, volunteer, travel

Cutting rebar

construction, Kumari, Nepal, school, voluntourism, Trekking for Kids

Roof being readied for the concrete pouring

Kumari, Nepal, Trekking for Kids, construction, Shree Bikash school, Nuwakot, voluntourism

Roof being poured with the sewage tank visible in the lower part of the photo

Finally, our trekkers helped finish the digging of the “sewage tank” that had already been started with the use of mechanical equipment. Hard work indeed!

And just having fun

Working on the projects is something trekkers enjoy doing but trekkers always enjoy the opportunity to be with the kids. The kids made us smile with the great welcome they gave us so I certainly enjoyed giving back in this way to them. We got to be with the kids during school hours and afterwards, including one afternoon dedicated to fun and games that went late. The kids thoroughly enjoyed the mini-carnival games, the arts and crafts, and a good early dinner!

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, school, Trekking for Kids, voluntourism

One of our trekkers, a former teacher, spends time in the classroom

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, school, voluntourism, Trekking for Kids, Samsung Galaxy

The kids played games in the afternoon

Kids enjoying an early dinner

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, Shree Bikash, school, Trekking for Kids, voluntourism, Samsung Galaxy

At the end of the day, kids line up for parting gifts!

As for me

The treks themselves, of course, helped keep me challenged and appreciating my own life’s blessings. But, in the end, I would not be doing these treks if it were not for the opportunity to make a difference, however small, in the lives of children around the world. It is faces like these that keep me prioritizing my travel budget and vacation time for doing these treks (at the expense of doing more with my own friends and family), that keep me “pestering” friends and family for donations to fund the projects, and that keep me accepting conditions during my treks that are less than what I’d prefer during my vacations. Take a look, can you blame me?

Check out Trekking for Kids and pass the word about this great organization to others via word of mouth and social media!

Nepal, Kumari, Nuwakot, sunset, mountains, travel, Samsung Galaxy

A beautiful Nepali sunset over our camp

Filed Under: Asia, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, construction, earthquake, hike, Himalayas, Kumari, Nepal, Nuwakot, school, service, travel, trek, voluntourism

Flying into Dangerous Lukla Airport in Nepal

22 November 2015 by Raul 10 Comments

I recall seeing a few years ago a TV show about the world’s ten most dangerous airports. Tegucigalpa, St. Maarten and a few others made the list. And so did Lukla, Nepal. Lukla is the typical starting point for anyone trekking along the route to Everest Base Camp, or to other points in the Himalayas. The alternative to the 35-min flight to Lukla (LUA) from Kathmandu is a long bus ride plus a few days of trekking to reach Lukla. I was not thrilled at the prospect of landing in one of the most dangerous airports but there really was no choice.

Heading to Lukla

The Lukla airport was built by none other than Sir Edmund Hillary himself in 1965 to facilitate developing the trekking business that he felt the local population needed. The Lukla airport , officially named Tenzing-Hillary Airport after the first two people to have summitted Mt. Everest, was a dirt airstrip until just 1999. Lukla is a town of a few thousand inhabitants perched high at around 2,840m / 9,300 ft above sea level. Flights in and out of Lukla mainly fly in the morning when the weather and the visibility are what they need to be for a successful flight (read: does not crash). Only planes that can handle short takeoffs and landings can operate from Lukla as the runway is only 1,700 ft (500m) long (or so) – that ain’t long at all! Flights can easily be canceled for the day if the conditions are not right which could be more than one day in a row, leaving hundreds stranded in this small hamlet in the highlands of Nepal… So beyond the flight involving a “dangerous” airport, one gets to worry about will the flight even go and what happens to the rest of the itinerary if the day is bust…

In any case, there are several airlines that run flights continuously in the morning to and from Lukla. It is like a bus service of sorts with planes making quick turnarounds at either airport (Lukla/Kathmandu) to take advantage of the right weather.

Lukla, Tara Air, boarding pass, Nepal, flight, airline, travel, Everest

Boarding pass to Lukla

The domestic terminal in Kathmandu is small and easy once you get past the chaos of getting to the airline counter and checking in. We had no real problems, thanks to our local guides that were going to be traveling with us – they knew their way around! After being dropped off, we walk along a covered walkway to a building in the back past a new building under construction. The old building was old indeed but it was functional. Once the flight is called (other Lukla flights were called too), we stepped out and there were 2-3 buses awaiting to take people to their planes. It was a bit confusing and finally someone pointed us to our bus based on our boarding pass.

The plane sat maybe 20 people and the flight was not full. I got a seat on the left so I would be facing north (towards the Himalayas). Unfortunately, the windows were very dirty which assured that photos would not be National Geographic kind of material (that is my excuse anyway…). Gosh, if I’d known and they’d let us, I would have gotten off the plane pre-takeoff and cleaned my window!

Himalayas, Nepal, window seat, airplane, flight, Tara Air, Lukla

The taller Himalayas via dirty window

At times, the ground was not far below us…

Small village – one can see the local stupa left of center

Before taking off, the flight attendant (yes, there is one) checked that our seat belts were fastened and handed out hard candy (to choke on when the plane jumped?? no, thanks) and cotton balls for our ears – yes, I guess it was to be a noisy flight! Those tasks and getting us in and out of the plane was all she had time to really do on such a short flight. But I still appreciated her for taking care of us!

Dangerous Airport?

The danger reputation stems from the fact that the runway starts at the edge of the mountain and runs uphill (a 12% grade) until either the plane has stopped and turned or, it has met the wall.

Lukla, airport, Nepal, dangerous, Himalayas, travel, flight, airplane, landing, takeoff, runway

The full runway (control tower on the right)

I have read, and was also told by a pilot, that part of the issue with landing is the uphill nature of the runway with the far end being higher than the end nearer to the pilot – this situation can trick the eye, giving the pilot a false sense of the aircraft’s vertical position before landing, potentially leading to accidents.

Lukla, airport, accident, danger, Nepal, runway, flight

A plane meets the wall

On the reverse (the takeoff out of Lukla), either the plane catches air at the end of the runway where the runway meets the cliff’s edge, or it drops when the runway runs out until the plane catches lift (which I would hope it does…).

See what I mean about “up or drop” (Source: www.theaustralian.com)

Truthfully, and maybe naively, neither landing nor takeoff worried me much. What worried me the most was the turbulence that can be encountered on the way to and from Lukla. Not helping things was the name of our Nepalese airline: Tara Air. I was happy until someone pronounced it, making it sound like “terror air” (pronounced with a thick Boston accent) which sent images flying (pardon the pun) all across my brain of a small plane jumping around due to high winds – a terror inducing ride ahead? Hopefully not!!!

Upon boarding, I looked into the seat pocket in front of me and found the air sickness bag which left no doubt as to what its purpose was… I should have taken it with me but at least I took a picture of it.

The flight into Lukla had gone very smoothly – no turbulence at all! And then we started circling. I was thinking to myself: “so close and now we start circling” – was it weather-related, I wondered? The delay turned out to not be about fog or weather issues and we experienced no turbulence. The issue was that, since the Lukla airport only has four parking spots for planes and they were “taken,” we had to wait for a plane to take off before we were allowed to land. That was a new one to me! The flight back from Lukla was also completely smooth giving me a 2-for-2 no-turbulence flights so I may consider never going back since I had such good luck on my first visit to Lukla!

Back to landing in Lukla: it was pretty darn cool as the small plane’s cockpit was open for us to see what was ahead – including seeing the runway ahead as we landed – or the mountains we were flying into before that.

Lukla, airport, flight, Nepal, cockpit, cockpit view, Himalayas, airplane

The view out of the cockpit – how cool is that!

Leaving Lukla, the plane actually took off the ground before the runway ended so no drop was experienced, maybe to the chagrin of those in the plane who love roller-coasters – but not me! Here is a video of my own takeoff – notice when we leave the runway, right before it ends (it is a noisy video so make sure you are not at max volume!).

In the end, as you may surmise, this was a far better choice than the bus and the walk 🙂 And now I can say I “survived” one of the world’s most dangerous airports!

ilivetotravel, Raul Pino, flying, window seat, travel, Lukla, Nepal, Tara Air

Happy flyer – and dapper too!

Pin this crazy airport to your travel board!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: airport, base camp, dangerous airport, Everest, Himalayas, Lukla, Nepal, scary landing, trek, trekking

Intro to Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu

Entering the temple

Cremations at Pashupatinath

Visiting this temple in Kathmandu gave more than I was ready for

Experiencing the world through travel is not always easy

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This trek versus other treks

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Clothing and Footwear

Gear and other practical items

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Beauty everywhere

The earthquake changed it

Eye gotta stupa for you…

Monkeys R Us

Getting to view Kathmandu from up high

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In the city of brotherly love – Philadelphia, USA

My first hike of the year – Blood Mountain, Georgia, USA

An amazing metropolis – Buenos Aires, Argentina

Back in time – Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

My favorite spot on Earth – Chile’s Patagonia

The great northwest – Portland, Oregon

Family, friends and food fest (4 F’s) – Spain, olé!

Reuniting with dear friends – California

Up-north (WAY up north) – Duluth, Minnesota

Returning to one my favorites – Chicago, Illinois

An epic trek to close the year – on the route to Everest Base Camp, Nepal

Epilogue to a year that ends…

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On the trail to Everest Base Camp…

Entering the Sagarmatha National Park

Breaks from the trail: tea and food

Bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River

And our awesome endpoint: Namche Bazaar

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Starting the trek: getting to Lukla

Getting the trek going: leaving Lukla

Buddhist faith along the route

A hiker has to eat!

Ending our hike in Tok Tok

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The stupa: a place for faith

The stupa: a place of beauty

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Our stay in Kumari

A grand Kumari welcome!

Sweat equity

And just having fun

As for me

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Heading to Lukla

Dangerous Airport?

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