Philippines - ilivetotravel's travel log

How Best to Explore Intramuros in Manila

28 April 2018 by Raul 18 Comments

Intramuros is the old district of Manila, the capital of the Philippines. It carries a lot of history and meaning within its walls as I shared with you in a prior post. Though it is quite distinctive and historic, it is not your typical tourist haven. That is actually what makes it a key point of interest in Manila: it is a national treasure for the country itself, not just for tourists. As a national treasure its reconstruction and growth are managed by the Intramuros Administration (IA). Maintaining the integrity of the district is very important to the IA and that is a good thing for current and future generations of locals – and the world at-large.

Some of the highlights of Intramuros

The first thing that will catch your attention is the city walls and all the forts, gates, bulwarks, ravelins and redoubts (clearly, I picked up some words related to military fortifications!). A good starting point in this network is Fort Santiago. The fort was built by the Spanish starting in the late XVI century and formed part of the city walls that once surrounded Manila, much as the Spanish did in a few of its colonial capitals (like Old San Juan in Puerto Rico). Protecting the city was important as it was a key connecting point in trade routes for Spain, trade routes that even spanned the Pacific Ocean going all the way to Mexico, one of the richest pieces of the Spanish Empire. All this rich history makes Intramuros an area to explore around Manila and its environs.

what to see in Manila, Fort Santiago, how to explore Intramuros, Manila travel, Manila, city walls, Philippines, Olympus

The entrance to Fort Santiago from the land side, repaired after WWII

Through the centuries it has changed due to earthquakes, attacks, or modifications. For example, there use to be a building right around the main gate shown in the pictures – the building was destroyed in a great earthquake that rocked Manila in 1880. During WWII the fort suffered great damage. Today, it is set up well for visitors. You first enter a plaza or park and then cross the moat (which is an arm of the Pasig River) to enter the main part of the fort.

what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila, Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila, city walls, Philippines

The moat in front of the entrance to Fort Santiago

You can walk along the walls and look across the river.

what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila, Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, photo, Olympus, architecture

Walk along the walls of the fort!

And you can see the place where the Philippines’ national hero, José Rizal, was imprisoned right before his execution in 1896. A poignant detail you will notice is that his footsteps from his prison to the place of his execution are marked on the ground.

what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila, Jose Rizal, Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, photo, history, national hero, Filipino

Lifelike statue of Rizal in his former cell

Rizal’s walk to his execution

After you are done in Fort Santiago, a short walk takes you to the Manila Cathedral, which has been destroyed and reconstructed more than a handful of times since it was first built in the late 16th century.

what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila, Manila Cathedral, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, photo, architecture

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception built in 1958

The Cathedral shares the Plaza de Roma (used to be called the Plaza de Armas, a key spot in any Spanish colonial town) with the former Governor’s Palace (also destroyed in the past) which now houses government offices, including the Intramuros Administration, which I got to visit.

what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila, Palacio del Gobernador, Governor's Palace, , Intramuros, Manila, Philippines,

The Governor’s Palace

San Agustín Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines (it opened in 1607), is one of the few buildings still standing in Intramuros that pre-date WWII. Though it suffered a little damage, it is mostly still the same structure. Along with three other churches in the Philippines, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Legazpi, the founder of the city of Manila is buried here. And if you get to visit, check out the ceiling – it plays a trick on the eye: though it looks elaborately decorated, all that you see is painted on a smooth surface!

San Agustin Church, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, photo, Olympus, architecture

Interior of the church – everything on the arches and ceiling is painted on!

Detail in the interior of the church

Though I call out Fort Santiago, the city walls with all its different components are good places to explore and get up on to check out the views. Worth noting that right outside the city walls, the former moat was reclaimed during the American period and a full 18-hole golf course established!

Intramuros, Manila, city walls, Manila Town Hall, Philippines, golf course, what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila,

City wall fortifications with the golf course in the background

How to see Intramuros

Depending on the reason for your visit to Manila and how much time you have, how you do Intramuros may vary. But whether you only have half-a-day or two days to spare, you should find a guide to show you around for 2-4 hours. There is a lot behind what you see in Intramuros and you will miss more than half of the story if you only walk around without a guide. I had a neat tour guide who, though a little too freely-sharing and opinionated, nevertheless presented Manila’s story in a very compelling way.

You can walk the district (it is not too big) or use a calesa to get around a little more comfortably, especially on a hot day. The good part about walking is that you can meander around with more freedom and take better pictures!

Calesa, Manila, Philippines, Intramuros, transportation, local, travel

Calesas on the run

Finally I would recommend not only visiting Intramuros but staying there one or two nights to soak in the district. While it is not the most lively area in the evening, there is a perfect spot to explore the old town, watch the sun set, and enjoy the evening breeze: The Bayleaf Hotel.

Staying in Intramuros

Understanding how to explore Intramuros is one thing but it is also important to know where to stay! I found it preferable to stay right in Intramuros to enjoy the view at night and not have to deal with traffic. I stayed at the Bayleaf Hotel which has great views (plus it was the tallest building in Intramuros) and was the only hotel within the city walls. The hotel sits right by the city walls and Victoria St., a very colorful street worth walking so the location was great.

It is one of the best spots to watch the sun set in Manila (even locals suggested we go there without knowing I was staying there!). Unfortunately, I did not get to watch the sunset from the hotel as it rained really hard that day (it is the tropics!). I did go up the next morning to the Sky Deck terrace to soak the awesome 360 degree view. You can see the golf course built in the site of the moat outside of the city walls. You can see the tall Manila Town Hall right outside the walls, then the National Museum. And then you can turn around to see all of Intramuros right below you. Even if you don’t stay at this particular hotel, find a way to go to the terrace!

Intramuros, Manila, city walls, Manila Town Hall, Philippines, golf course, clouds, sky, what to see in Manila, things to do Manila, explore old Manila,

Looking from the Bayleaf’s Sky Deck towards the Manila Town Hall (notice the golf course)

Manila, Intramuros, Philippines, view, vista, Bayleaf Hotel, cloud, sky, Olympus

View over Intramuros (the Cathedral to the left) towards Manila Bay

I only wish I had been there on a clear day where I could witness an amazing sunset over Manila, perhaps with a tropical beverage and camera in hand, taking it all in… I guess there is always a return to Manila. If MacArthur did it, why not me??

Add Intramuros to your Pin board!

Read more details about the history of Fort Santiago here.

I was a guest of the Bayleaf Hotel for the night I was to watch the sun set over Manila. This trip happened five years ago but I preserve some text on the hotel because I truly do believe its location is ideal for a base to explore Intramuros.

Filed Under: Asia, Philippines, Travel Journal Tagged With: city walls, explore Manila, Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila, Manila cathedral, manila things to do, Manila travel, Philippines, San Agustin, what to see in Manila

The Warm Capitals: Panama City, Manila, San Juan, and Port of Spain

1 May 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

For many, the ideal vacation is to go where it is sunny and warm, be it the tropics or somewhere with good “Mediterranean” climate. Be it the Caribbean, the South Pacific, or the Greek Isles, sun and fun seem to go together. I am not as much a chaser of these climates but they definitely present great color and usually interesting and, pardon the word, warm peoples. For the “Capital Cities” series, I have chosen four warm capitals: Panama City, Manila, San Juan, and Port of Spain.

Panama City, Panama

I have shared before about incredible and ever-changing Panama City, a place I have visited over four different decades and which I always enjoy.

Modern Panama City as seen from the Casco Viejo

As I have family there, I get to do both the things a visitor would do but also live a little like the locals when I am there. Panama City is both old and modern and whether by visiting the old ruins of the original establishment, or exploring the old (but not as old) city or “Casco Viejo,” or entering the Canal Zone, or simply enjoying the modern life, Panama City offers great experiences. And when those are not enough, then fly to the Pearl Islands or head to other beautiful parts of the country like the area near Chagres or Chiriqui, for example.

Manila, The Philippines

I have only visited Manila once and for a rather brief visit. I shared in another post how the old district has much more history than I understood from centuries of Spanish rule, then American control, then Japanese occupation, and –finally- from the times after it gained its independence.

Intramuros, Manila, city walls, Manila Town Hall, Philippines, golf course, clouds, sky, Olympus

Looking from the Bayleaf’s Sky Deck towards the Manila Town Hall (notice the golf course)

While it can be quite hot and humid (as Panama City), the warmth of the people is well worth the warmth of the climate. You’d expect that people in any large city would be short-tempered, always in a rush – a la Manhattan. Not in Manila, where it seems the human connection is most important. I did not get to venture outside of the city to enjoy what I hear are incredible beaches and other natural settings worth exploring. But the city alone was well worth the visit!

San Juan, Puerto Rico

You may know from prior posts that I grew up in Puerto Rico. We moved there when I was two and I left at 17. 15 years to make San Juan a piece of my heart, as the lovely song says: “En mi Viejo San Juan, cuantos cuantos sueños forjé en mis noches de infancia…” The old part of San Juan is referred to as “el Viejo San Juan” to distinguish it from the more modern city around it.

Great fields facing the ocean (note the kites and the city walls) in El Morro

The small island where old San Juan sits is connected by bridges to the rest of the city and, if you don’t pay attention, you may not catch that.

Old San Juan is truly a living museum. Centuries old, it has not been destroyed nor significantly burned so what you see is what it was and has always been. But it is not a lifeless museum or collection of old buildings: people work, shop, play and live in those old buildings! The heat of the tropics is kind in Puerto Rico due to the strong breezes coming in from the Atlantic, at least on the northern and eastern side of the island so Old San Juan is a great place to spend time as it sits higher than sea level for the most part and the breezes, combined with the shadows the buildings offer part of the day, make it comfortable even for the most cold-loving snowbird. When you go, make sure you explore the old forts and walls erected by the Spanish centuries ago. For more of what to see in this incredible place and the rest of Puerto Rico, check out my recommendations on experiences to have in Puerto Rico!

Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago

The capital of Trinidad and Tobago sits in the island of Trinidad. Facing the water but with hills around it, it is a melting pot of races and cultures which results in a fun place to discover, even when it is not Carnival (which I hear is phenomenal!). I visited for a few days and enjoyed GREAT food (whether Italian, Indian, tropical, or other!). I loved driving around the neighborhoods and seeing some neat island architecture.

Trinindad, food, fish, rice, tropical, travel

A delicious lunch at Veni Mangé in Port of Spain was well-deserving of thanks!

While Port of Spain definitely has an industrial side to it, it has many other awesome areas to spend time in – and don’t forget Maracas Bay not too far away (passing through a beautiful tropical forest and great ocean views from the road!).

Port of Spain, Trinidad, Tobago, architecture, dark sky, travel, photo

Great architecture in Port of Spain!

Modern architecture? Check!

The world has many capitals in the warmer climates. In fact, quite a bit! Here is to getting to explore many more of them! Have any recommendations??

Filed Under: Panama, Philippines, Puerto Rico, Travel Journal, Trinidad & Tobago Tagged With: architecture, dark sky, Manila, Panama, Panama City, Philippines, photo, Port of Spain, Puerto Rico, San Juan, Tobago, travel, Trinidad, Trinidad & Tobago

Manila Relaxation

18 October 2013 by Raul 24 Comments

I love to travel and explore new places. I enjoy it a lot. But I also like to relax and do not much of anything worth writing about. Yes, I have been known to cram a lot into a trip when I set my mind to it (like my Croatia/Bosnia & Herzegovina/Montenegro chaser to my week in Rome a year ago). But the diversity of experiences is what draws me to travel and that does not just mean different geographies and cultures – that also means pace. While I am not much of a beach bum (a couple of hours and I am itching to do SOMETHING), I appreciate what people find in just laying about and letting the world go on.

In my short visit to Manila I was intending to see all I could about the city in 3 days. However, there was something liberating in knowing that I could not experience all that the city is in three days so that gave me the opportunity to take the pressure off myself to do all I could (and especially after day one when I realized this is a place I would want to come back to). But what really sealed the deal was my hotel. It says something when a hotel makes you want to stay in and, I imagine, many hotels aim for that. The Marriott Manila had that effect on me. Amazingly, I was not jet lagged and needing to rest. (Jet lag actually did not affect me with sleepiness or confused time zones, something confusing in and of itself.) I. Just. Wanted. To. Be. There.

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, chocolate, sculpture, carving, art, interesting, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

They love chocolate carvings/sculptures at the hotel – here one of the current President

The spaces

The room was spacious and comfortable (without being a suite). All the offerings/amenities of the room worked without a hitch (yes, EVEN the wi-fi). There was actually great lighting in the room (read #4 in my top 5 hotel pet peeves). The shower/tub combination was quite unique as was the division between it and the main room – clever.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, luxury, interior design, photo, Olympus, travel, innovation. comfort

Look at the white half-wall in the background…

… and all of a sudden it opens up to “connect” the room to the shower!

The Executive Lounge, unlike most U.S. Marriotts, was huge. At non-peak times, it is easy to find a spot and feel like you are on your own, which is nice if you have work to do.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, luxury, interior design, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, lounge, comfort

The lounge

The lounge faces the golf course which gives it a great view…

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, view, interior design, photo, Olympus, travel, lounge, comfort

View of the city from the lounge (unfortunately, on a rainy day)

The lobby is a series of spaces designed to flow well and pull you in. The main seating area seamlessly integrates into the bar. You just want to hang there. And do people watching…

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, beautiful, decoration, furnishings, , Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

Lobby space

… or have a drink.

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, bar, light fixture, lamp, art, interesting, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

The bar area faces the edge of the golf course. I like the light fixtures

Finally, facing the golf course, there are nice outdoor areas for those times when you get cold indoors (the A/C really is PUMPING!) or want to jump in the pool.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, outdoor area, relaxation, comfort, hotel, lodging, travel, Olympus

Outdoor seating area right by the bar

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, outdoor area, relaxation, comfort, hotel, lodging, travel, Olympus, pool

Though a rainy day, a nice pool area

The food

On my first full night in Manila, after having done a walking city tour in the rain, I decided to eat in at the hotel. Since I had a slight sore throat, I asked for some chicken noodle soup. Boy, was that a chicken noodle soup! It was beautifully served and was delicious: with noodles, greens, diced up chicken, and carrots. I don’t think I have used the phrase “beautifully served” before but the solid ingredients were nicely set up in the main oblong bowl with the broth actually brought in a separate teapot-like container. I especially appreciated it because I wanted to shower before eating and the way they served it allowed me to not have to eat it as soon as it was brought to my room.

The next day, I had the choice of taking breakfast in the Executive Lounge, a hangout spot for a regular like me (the one in Santiago’s Marriott, I called my living room when I stayed there most of 2010!), or go to the Marriott Café. I opted for the latter to see what food they would offer in the buffet. It did not disappoint as it clearly had many local specialties some of which I tried and some that I did not want at breakfast (e.g., anchovies).

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, delicious, food, cuisine, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

Kakiage (like tempura, in the back) and chicken tonkatsu (on the front) – delicious

On the fishier side of breakfast…

Some good-looking sushi

Location

The Marriott Manila sits very close to the Manila airport in an area called Resorts World. I am not 100% clear on the plans for the area but there are other hotels, shopping center, etc. and a lot of development going on in the area; it looks like a small town is actually sprouting. While one half of the hotel looks over the domestic part of the airport, the other half overlooks a very nice and lush golf course with the Manila skyline in the distance. I am not sure how it is during regular weekday hours but my ride to the business center of Makati was pretty easy and fast on mid-day Saturday.

I have to admit that before I came, I assumed that given its location (near the airport and not far from the Makati business district), the Marriott would mainly appeal to business travelers. Once I stepped in it, I saw how off my assumption was. Lots of leisure travelers AND many locals coming for events at the hotel.

Service – leaving the best for last (but proverbial “not least”!)

I mentioned earlier my slight sore throat. I stopped at the front desk and asked when I came in from sightseeing to find out where I could get some lozenges or something to alleviate my discomfort. The informed me that connected to the hotel, right after the entrance to the mall was a medical clinic. I thought to myself how convenient that was. Not only convenient but free. With a doctor. On a Saturday evening. Yes, indeed. Imagine that ANYWHERE in the U.S.! They really are prepared to take care of guests! The doctor just recommended something to gargle which the hotel concierge went to get for me. It really says something about a hotel when they can handle not only the “normal” stay but when something like this arises.

Which leads me to my top takeaway from this stay… The amazing staff at the hotel. They are well prepared to make you comfortable and assist you. They smile and it actually feels genuine. No wonder I just wanted to stay in, right?!

I have stayed at many Marriotts in my work life and logged many “career stay nights”. As I have mentioned elsewhere, one of the things Marriotts do best is give the business traveler a consistent experience so that you feel you are somewhere familiar. But the Manila Marriott simply blew me away. Few hotels have made me feel so welcome, comfortable, and cared for. You can bet that if – no, when – I return to Manila, I will be making a stop here!

Thanks to the Manila Marriott for hosting part of my stay. Opinions are my own as always.

Filed Under: Asia, Philippines, Travel Journal Tagged With: food, foodie, hotel, jet lag, lodging, Manila, Marriott, Olympus, Philippines, relaxation, travel

A Survivor Story: Manila’s Story

21 September 2013 by Raul 19 Comments

As I headed to Manila for my very short visit, it dawned on me I actually knew little of the city’s history outside of Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos and the story ever since them (and even that, superficially only). I had a notion of World War II impacting it through names like Corregidor and Bataan, names that meant very bad things had happened thanks to the vicious Japanese invader. But that’s where my awareness ended.

In my visit, I did no have time to explore all of Manila. It would seem nearly impossible. Suffice it to say it has a wide range of neighborhoods, from those that remind you that you are in the developing world to those that show business dynamism and economic vitality (such as the important business district of Makati).

Makati, Manila, Philippines, Green Belt Mall, Olympus, photo, travel, luxury

At the Greenbelt Mall in the Makati district

The old city

The highlight of my short visit to Manila was to explore the old part of town, the “original” Manila: Intramuros. Intramuros’ name means “within the walls” as city walls were built around the old town by the Spanish to protect it from attackers coming either from water (Manila Bay or the Pasig River) or from land. The Philippines had become a Spanish colony in the 1500s after the arrival of Magellan, of Magellan Straits fame, and became the western terminus of Spain‘s trans-Pacific shipping lanes to and from Mexico (which actually governed the Philippines on behalf of the Spanish crown until it became independent from Spain; what a complex web!).

Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, photo, Olympus, travel, rainy, cloudy

Looking down on the city walls of Intramuros from The Bayleaf Hotel

In any case, the walls did not always deter invaders successfully: the British actually occupied Manila for 3 years in the 18th century. Manila did survive the British but that’s not quite the survival story of Manila I want to share…

Liberated from the empire

The Philippines was not as prized a possession for Spain as were, for example, Perú and Mexico. The Filipinos wanted to be done with Spain and their opportunity came thanks to the Spanish-American War of 1898 (which taught the world the lesson that if you are an ailing former superpower, you shouldn’t go picking up fights with the newbie superpower…). Out of that war, via the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded or sold various territories to the U.S. such as the Philippines, Cuba, Puerto Rico, etc. Treaties like this one always make me think that losers in wars get to go to cool places to sign documents. It almost tempts a dictator to start a little war to get a free trip to Paris… But I digress.

World War II (WWII) ruins a city

The Philippines stayed under U.S. control for about 50 years until after WWII. But independence came only after some very extreme suffering. The Japanese invaded the Philippines and took over Manila which at the time was U.S. territory. Think about that: they bomb Pearl Harbor (Hawaii was not a state yet) and then they go after the Philippines just days later. The Japanese knew what they were doing; I wonder who was asleep at the wheel on this on the U.S. military’s side, especially down in Manila…

So the battle for the Philippines was vicious. Over 100,000 civilians died when it was all said and done. The Japanese inflicted tons of damage but so did the liberators of Manila via American and Filipino forces. The bombing campaign to finally evict the Japanese out of Manila required throwing them out of the old city. Intramuros was bombed significantly. Most of it was completely destroyed. It is quite telling (and news to me) that the second most destroyed city in WWII after Warsaw was Manila. The Battle of Manila is considered the bloodiest battle in the Pacific in WWII which is also shocking since we always hear other names talked about a lot in the battles of the Pacific.

Intramuros today

Most of what you will see in Intramuros today is a reconstruction. Well done, but a reconstruction. Save St. Agustin Church (which the Japanese used as a concentration camp during their occupation). Though it suffered some damage, the church survived the attacks fairly well.

San Agustin, church, Manila, Intramuros, Baroque, UNESCO World Heritage, Philippines, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, architecture

The main altar at San Agustin Church

The current church was built in 1607 though other churches had existed on the site before. St. Agustin now, along with 3 other churches in the country, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name Baroque Churches of the Philippines. The city walls you see today are mostly a reconstruction. A reconstruction that has been well done as it does not look like they are as young as they are.

Intramuros is managed by the Intramuros Administration (IA) set up by the government to manage this national treasure of the Philippines. It oversees repairs and renovations while also exercising controls to ensure the district retains its historical and architectural integrity. I got to meet its marketing lead and its brand new Administrator which gives me great hope for continued progress in the restoration of this gem in Manila.

A survival story

Seeing Manila through the eyes of its history lends it great dignity. Everything may not be perfectly ticked-and-tied in Manila, but the bigger point is seeing a survivor that has stepped out of sheer destruction and is just moving forward. The long-in-distance and short-in-duration trip certainly delivered a great understanding I didn’t even realize I was going to get. And that’s why I live to travel.

———————————————————————————————

More on Intramuros and Manila!

———————————————————————————————

Add Manila to your Pin travel board!!