Stefan cel Mare - ilivetotravel's travel log

Photo Essay of the Center of Moldova’s Capital: Chisinau

Having added Moldova to my Romania trip itinerary , Chisinau (pronounced KISH-now), its capital, had to be central to the visit as it is the main town in this country of approximately 3.6 million people (Chisinau itself has around 750,000 inhabitants).

Chisinau road sign, Moldova — Welcome to Chisinau

Street scene near central Chisinau, Moldova — Street scene near central Chisinau (and darkening skies!)

Street scene in Chisinau, Moldova — Bus stop scene in Chisinau

The city, which was founded in the 1430s, has a complex history since it was at the crossroads of various empires. It is said that it had the largest proportion of Jewish population in Europe in 1900 at 43% of the city’s population. The city was nearly destroyed in 1940 when the Soviets took over and the city was hit by an earthquake, and, later by Nazi attacks and occupation. I saw old structures but not many that pre-date this period (to my untrained eye). The Jewish population, as in other places, was wiped out to a good extent during the Nazi occupation.

Booth in Chisinau, Moldova — Perhaps one of the older structures around??!!

Some of the older architecture in Chisinau, Moldova — Example of older architecture in Chisinau, Moldova

City Hall, finished in 1901 but re-built after WW II due to the damage it sustained, is one of the best architectural pieces in town, built in Italian Gothic style.

City Hall of Moldova's capital city, Chisinau — Chisinau City Hall

Of course, a lot of buildings I saw are post-WW II. Many of the big style government buildings, apartment bloc buildings, and hotels were built in that post-war period, with the implications to architecture that that entails…

Apartment blocs in Chisinau. Moldova — Apartment blocs, many in different states of repair

Parliament Building was damaged during demonstrations in 2009 and is under repair. It used to house the Central Committee of the Communist Party during Soviet times.

Parliament Building in Chisinau, Moldova — Parliament Building

The now-abandoned National Hotel in Chisinau, Moldova — The now-abandoned National Hotel

Hotel Chisinau (open) in Moldova — Hotel Chisinau (open)

Telecom company building in Chisinau, Moldova — Office building

Presidential Palace in Chisinau, Moldova — Presidential Palace

Underground tunnel in Chisinau, Moldova — Underground tunnel for pedestrians – great artwork

Ministry of Agriculture in Chisinau, Moldova — Ministry of Agriculture

I enjoy looking at the architecture in a city to get a mental image of the place and how it evolved. Clearly, history has been wiped out a good bit by war, earthquakes, and the Soviet regime. But I also like to see what people do. Unfortunately, a countryside-heavy itinerary kept me mostly out of Chisinau. Also, I didn’t find any cafés in the central part of the city as I walked around so it was harder to sit back and watch life go by (well, I could have sat on a sidewalk but not the same!). Still, I saw life go by in its own way.

Old lady crossing Stefan cel Mare Boulevard in Chisinau, Moldova — Old lady crossing Stefan cel Mare Boulevard

Man crossing street in Chisinau, Moldova — Man crossing street

I did visit the main park in the city center, named after the national hero Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great), which definitely seems to be popular with locals with its trees, lawn areas, fountains and the Alley of the Classics (with sculptures of literature and political greats for Moldovans).

Stefan cel Mare Central Park in Chisinau, Moldova — Stefan cel Mare Central Park

Ever-present Stefan cel Mare near the same-named park in Chisinau, Moldova — Ever-present Stefan cel Mare near the same-named park

My guide asked me asked me when we met “why Moldova?”. I answered because “it’s there and I wanted to see what it was like.” Yet, I fully realize that to really get to know a country and its people, it takes a lot more than a short visit and the sightseeing. I was fortunate to have a great guide, Dumitru, (whom I’d recommend for anyone traveling there!) for 3 days who shared a lot with me about Moldova and Moldovans, about the times before and after the fall of the USSR, about the country’s current challenges, about the business environment, and about the hidden treasures this small country has to offer for those willing to take the extra steps to get to see it.

Exploring Moldova: Re-Born Churches and Monasteries

I had no idea when I first thought of going to Moldova, on an off the beaten path whim, that I would see a treasure trove of church and monastery architecture. But as I researched a possible visit to this ex Soviet republic (one of the many ex USSR republics that became independent countries in the early 1990s), I learned that was exactly what I was going to see in Moldova: an incredible collection of restored religious buildings reclaimed from the inhuman Communist philosophy that ruled many lands and peoples in this part of the world. I was quite curious to see how they would look and how were they impacted by decades of officially-atheistic Soviet communism as a child of exiles from Communism from another part of the world (Cuba, yet another victory of the tyranny of the proletariat against human beings, if I am allowed to just say that!).

Moldova, as a Soviet Socialist Republic, was a place where the Communist system tried to take (or actually took) man’s humanity out of the equation, out of the value of a human life in support, instead, of a “system” – and part of that strategy required removing the strength and hope that faith can provide human beings. Churches and monasteries were either destroyed or severely damaged precisely because they supported human life value / dignity over a false promise of “equality” (equality only for those in power, as with many systems…). But I digress… those religious structures that were not totally destroyed were re-purposed as mental hospitals, children’s institutions, etc. and the religious communities were broken up.

It is evident that Moldova is trying to shed its Soviet past in the ways that are possible for a small economy that is not in the EU and that is talked about as one of the poorest, if not the poorest, in Europe. For example, roads are being re-built in and around the capital, Chisinau (Chișinău). The airport is modern and well-prepared to receive (or send off) the visitor. But what I stood out to me was how churches and monasteries have been worked on so carefully to restore them to their spiritual and physical greatness, even if not all buildings in the complexes are completely restored yet (it does take time and money…).

Visiting these churches and monasteries does not require an appointment nor are there entrance fees. Simply walk in. BUT, do remember to dress appropriately!

After I show you these amazing places in the next section, I have a conclusion I would like to share…

Frumoasa Monastery

This small and beautiful monastery, which reminded me of the Greek isles due to its sharp blue and white colors, was the focus of my photo of the week post earlier this week but it is worthy of including here as it was such a gem. The monastery is about 14 km from Calarasi town which in turn is about 50 km from Chisinau. It is also a convenient monastery to see if visiting the Curchi monastery.

Curchi Monastery

This monastery (pronounced COOR-key) is considered one of the most beautiful and famous monastery complex in Moldova with 2 large churches (and other small ones I did not get to see) and many other spaces and buildings in its footprint. It was founded around the 1770s. Between the 1950s and the early 2000s it did not operate as a monastery though now it has again become a monastery for men. Lots of visitors/pilgrims the day I went though it was a weekday. And strict rules as no photography was allowed within the churches.

The main church, painted in bright red, is the Church of the Mother of God and was built in the late 19th century. It is a beautiful building up close but even more impressive as one approaches the monastery by road.

Church of the Mother of God

St. Dumitru Church

Capriana Monastery

This monastery, one of the oldest in Moldova dating to the 1420s, is just 40 km away from Chisinau. It is one of the most important ones because rulers, including the most important one, Stefan cel Mare, helped build it. The two main churches, St. George and St. Nicholas, were built in the 1840s and 1900s, respectively.

Image of Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great)

Chisinau Center Churches/Cathedrals

Chisinau as a city has a good number of churches (for views of Chisinau itself, check my post on it here). Right in the city center there are a few worth checking out.

1. Near the Hotel National lies the St. Great Martyr Tiron Cathedral, quite a beautiful structure built in the 1850s.

Schimbarea La Fata Church

2. The Transfiguration Cathedral (or the Church of Schimbarea La Fata in Moldovan) sits next to the Ministry of Agriculture. It has been beautifully restored inside. It’d be easy to pass it up given the size of nearby Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity but don’t miss visiting it.

3. The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity, however, is the most imposing of the churches I saw in Chisinau. It is a Russian Orthodox Church built around the 1830s. It, and its front tower and outdoor baptistry, sit in a large square facing the Triumphal Arch and, beyond, the imposing (though unimaginatevely architected) Government House building.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity

The outdoor baptistry

Small Churches in Orhei

The predominant religion in Moldova is Orthodox Christianity. In Orhei, a town north of Chisinau with about 25,000 inhabitants, I visited the small Catholic Church. We asked the attendant what percent of the town’s people were Catholic and she replied: “4% – but working on it.” What a spirit!

The town had small Orthodox churches but because of our itinerary/schedule, I could not explore except from the car. But they were definitely colorful!

My Conclusion: It’s about More than Architecture

So the renewal I witnessed in Moldova was impressive but even more impressive was seeing the faithful visit these religious places so openly, something that I am sure was impossible (or close to it?) during the decades of Soviet communism. Those images are the ones that really stay with me…