Roman Ruins in Jordan | Ancient Jerash

Yes, Jordan is more than Petra.  And, if you have read some of my other posts on what I saw in Jordan, you are aware of that. But when it comes to historical sites of significance, it is worth noting there are important and well-preserved Roman ruins in Jordan, the Hashemite Kingdom.  Jerash, in northwestern Jordan, is historically quite important on its own right even if overshadowed by the more famous Petra further south.  However, Jerash struck me not only for its historical significance but also because it was alive!

Jerash – the ancient Greco-Roman city

Before I tell you how it is alive, let’s explore the historical and architectural gem Jerash is.  Jerash (known as Gerasa in older times) was a city built originally in Greco-Roman times.  This is estimated to have been established in the 4th century BC.  After a large earthquake in the 8th century and further destruction brought about by other earthquakes and wars, Jerash became a footnote of history.  That is, until it was begun to be excavated in the early 19th century and the rise of uncovering Roman ruins in Jordan.  Even Emperor Hadrian himself visited Jerash in his days and there is a triumphal arch commemorating that visit.  Jerash was not just a backwater outpost.

Arch Hadrian Roman ruin Jordan Jerash history Canon EOS Rebel

Arch of Hadrian built to honor his visit
Arch Hadrian Roman ruins history Jerash Gerasa Jordan Canon EOS Rebel
Detail of the Arch of Hadrian

What to see in Jerash:  spectacular Roman ruins

Among the many sites in Jerash to explore are the Forum, temples to Zeus and Artemis, the Cardo Maximus, the North and South theaters and many other ruins.

FOrum Roman rins Jerash Jordan history
View of the Forum at Jerash
Forum Roman ruins colonnade columns Jerash Jordan History Canon EOS Rebel
Detail of the colonnade of the Forum
Mosaic Roman ruins Byzantine church Jerash Jordan art design Canon EOS Rebel

Mosaic floor of one of the 3 contiguous Byzantine churches on the site

Along the Cardo Maximus

The Cardo Maximus is one of the most phenomenal ancient “streets” I have ever walked.  It is a column-lined road where the remnants, both standing and fallen, of the many structures that used to line it are still quite present if not alive.

Cardo Maximus Roman Ruins Colonnade Columns history Jerash Jordan Canon EOS Rebel
Visitors walking down the Cardo Maximus, the north-south colonnaded street

Fallen column Roman ruin history Jerash Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Jerash’s ruins did not survive powerful earthquakes and other ravages as this reminds us

Columns temple artemis jerash jordan history roman ruins

Beautiful columns in the Temple of Artemis

The place is alive

Oh, you think I am talking figuratively, aren’t you??  There is a column in the Temple of Artemis that is actually moving.  You can place your hand at its base and you will feel it moving.  Yes, indeed!  But that is not quite what I mean when I say Jerash is alive…

Moving column temple artemis Jerash Jordan Roan ruins

I hesitated for a second putting my hand in there. I let someone else go first…

There were also vegetation around (this being the greener part of Jordan) like the following which also contributes to making Jerash a site that is “alive”.  But that’s still not what I mean…

Fig tree in Jerash, Jordan Roman ruins Canon EOS Rebel

Fig tree along the path

But what I really meant about Jerash being alive was neither of the prior two photos.  The day we visited there were several groups of schoolchildren visiting and they enjoyed chanting in the large Roman theater – almost like competing to see who had the best chants – and running up the stands.

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children enjoying and LIVING the ruins!

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children enjoying and LIVING the ruins!

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children climbing the stands of the theater

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

The smile so typical of every kid we ran into! A happy memory for us all

Though these ancient ruins were some of the most impressive I have seem, it was great to see a historic place so alive that day – it helped me connect more to the essence of Jordan via its children!


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Roman ruins in jordan, jerash, gerasa, roman architecture in jordan


Check out these other posts about Jordan:


During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

Got History? Amman Does!

Coming to Amman for the first time, I was curious as to what the city would feel like.  Surely, there would be some good restaurants (all cities have them!) and some nationally important buildings or monuments worth visiting (and photographing!).  I have been to Cairo, close to Amman in many ways beyond distance, and Istanbul which, though not Arab, shared the Ottoman Empire with Amman and other places in the Middle East.  But I figured with Amman being smaller and being in a smaller country would likely feel different.  It was.  Starting with its scale but also in the pace it seemed to have.  It felt more livable, relaxed and manageable.  And many places that would fall under the category of things to do while visiting Amman.

A Wealth of History in Amman

In terms of scale, while it does not have structures that compare with the Hagia Sophia or the Pyramids of Giza (how many places do??), the depth of the historical “record” it has on evidence took me by surprise.  And I like this type of surprises!

I am a history buff but I am more informed about some places than others.  About Jordan, I knew how the country came out of colonial rule in the 20th century, I knew Petra and its history, and had some notion of the Arab Revolution in which Lawrence of Arabia had a hand (thanks Hollywood).  Amman surprised me by the incredible record of civilizations past that it holds and here is some of what I discovered in my visit to the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom.  One of those things is that it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places town in the world!

The Citadel of Amman

The Citadel is a great example of the amazing historical record available for the visitor to Jordan.  The Citadel not only has amazing ruins to visit and a great small museum but it offers amazing views of the city that surrounds it, all hills!

Amman city view flagpole flag Jordan hills photo Canon EOS Rebel

A city of hills with the massive Raghadan flagpole in the background (3rd tallest free-standing in the world)

As the visitor is reminded by the signage, there has been settlements in current day Amman since thousands of years before Christ past the Bronze and Iron Ages through Persian, Greek, Nabatean, Roman and Byzantine periods.  It also has navigated through various names.  Rammath-Ammon is one of the oldest but did you know the city was also named Philadelphia in ancient times?  Yep, it was.

Among the ruins I explored at The Citadel were the ruins of a Byzantine Church and the Temple of Hercules.

Citadel Amman Jordan Roman ruins columns Canon EOS Rebel

Some of the Roman ruins in The Citadel

temple hercules roman statue, big hand, citadel amman jordan canon eos rebel

The Temple of Hercules as backdrop to the hand of a colossal Roman statue that once stood at The Citadel

Roman Colossus Statue Hand at the citadel in amman jordan canon eos rebel

Close-up of the big ole hand!

A key site at The Citadel is the Umayyad Governor’s Palace from the 8th century built on old Roman ruins.  The Umayyad was a dynasty that ruled Amman for a few centuries but who ruled, at its peak, a vast caliphate from modern-day Pakistan to Spain.  Who knew, right?  Not covered in my ancient history class in high school…

Umayyad Palace Citadel amman jordan dome ruin Canon EOS Rebel

Umayyad Palace

Dome blue sky Umayyad Governor Palace citadel amman jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the palace’s dome

Umayyad governor palace amman jordan flag architecture detail Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the exterior of the Umayyad Palace

"Architectural detail" amman jordan umayyad governor palace citadel Canon EOS Rebe,

Detail of the interior of the central room of the palace

"Architectural detail" Umayyad Palace in the Citadel architecture amman jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the central room at the Umayyad Palace at The Citadel in Amman, Jordan

Ruins Umayyad Mosque palace The Citadel Amman, Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Ruins from the old Umayyad Mosque by the palace

Artifacts from The Citadel's archeology museum Amman Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

Archeology museum artifacts Canon EOS Rebel

Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

The Roman Theater

Amman also has a Roman Theater built in the mid 2nd century A.D. by Emperor Antonius Pius.  It is in the middle of Amman and is a popular place for local young adults to go visit, if my time there was any indication!  Some in my group struck good conversations with locals whilst some of us climbed all over taking pictures!

The Roman Theater in Amman, Jordan viewed from The Citadel Canon EOS Rebel

The Roman Theater viewed from The Citadel

The Roman Theater in Amman, Jordan

Approaching the entrance to the Roman Theater

The Roman Theater in Amman, Jordan Canon EOS Rebel ruins

Detail of the front of the theater’s stage

Roman Theater Amman Jordan modern spectator ruins Canon EOS Rebel

Is that a Roman spectator still hanging around??

As you can see, Amman has some incredible testimonials to ancient history in The Citadel and the Roman Theater.  Petra, Jerash and Mardaba are example of other great places to witness history and will be the topic of a future post – stay tuned!!

Experiencing a Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp

I wrote earlier about exploring the Wadi Rum in Jordan and how much fun it was to ride around in the back of a pickup truck and admire the magnificence of the landscape of this unique spot in the Middle East, at a crossroads between Asia and Africa.  What made that day even better was how it ended that evening:  over-nighting in the Wadi Rum in a Bedouin camp under the stars!

We stayed at a Captain’s Desert Camp camp, I am not really sure where exactly in the Wadi Rum, somewhere surrounded by the giant rock formations typical of the Wadi Rum, if that helps any…  The camp was mostly candle-lit at night and the night consisted of enjoying our dinner outdoors, listening to Bedouin music, some dancing, and a lot of star-gazing up above.  It was a wonderful experience.

The camp was separated from the area around it with screens and simple structures that seem easy to put up and bring down as needed, perhaps influenced by the nomadic tradition.  The tents we were staying in were spacious and just had the beds – nothing fancy.  The camp had bathroom and shower facilities that, though basic, were not too basic (says he who went a week without showering going up Kilimanjaro…).

In any case, it was the evening activities under the stars that made the night so memorable for me.  The night started with music and a demonstration of Bedouin bread (or “shrak“) making.

We got to sample the shrak right then as the food was still cooking…  nice and warm.  In the meantime, they had local musicians come to play for us traditional music and shisha (hookah) pipes were also brought out for folks to enjoy the fruit flavors of the smoke.

Bedouin music guitar desert camp "Wadi Rum" Jordan Canon EOS Rebel

Bedouin music players (see short video below for a 20sec sample of the music)

Shisha hookah pipe Bedouin "wadi rum" jordan desert Canon EOS Rebel

One of the locals enjoying the shisha pipe

Then it came time to get the food out:  the meats and vegetables were cooked covered up and underground and it was a little production to get it out and served.

Bedouin "Wadi Rum" Jodan food cooking underground oven Canon EOS Rebel

1.  Beginning to uncover the underground “oven”

Bedouin food cooking Jordan "Wadi Rum" underground oven

2.  All the coverings removed, there is the hole…

Bedouin food Jordan "Wadi Rum" meats vegetables

3.  The goods being pulled out

Bedouin food chicken eggplant potato "Wadi Rum" Jordan desert camp

4.  The final delicious product: chicken, potatoes, eggplant, etc. – mmm!!!

"Wadi Rum" desert captain camp dining area food adventure outdoors Jordan

The seating area for dinner – comfy!

No pictures of dinner itself as this traveler was starving and eating -not my blogging- became the focus.  My apologies 🙂  Suffice it to say it was as delicious -or more- as it looks.  The seating was leisurely – you truly feel like a ruler of an empire leaning back with your plate of food…

I close with a picture from the next morning of the comfy area (with its great backdrop) where we had listened to the music by the campfire and had enjoyed our dinner under stars in the amazing Wadi Rum – an experience not to be missed during a trip to Jordan!

Bedouin desert camp captain Jordan "Wadi Rum" divan Olympus

The dining area turned sleeping area for outdoor lovers

Photo of the Week – Beijing on a Sunny Day?

Beijing is well, and fairly, known for its pollution problem.  This photo from 2002 probably is from a “good” day.  I imagine the situation has gotten worse over the years.  However, what really makes me wonder in this picture is the ratio of cars to bicycles.  I wonder if there is that much space for bicycles anymore…

Entrance to the Forbidden City Beijing, China bicycles cars pollution

Entrance to the Forbidden City in Beijing just north of Tiananmen Square

Jordan’s Wadi Rum: Not Just for Lawrence of Arabia

Well, I assume I did follow some of his/his camel’s footsteps in the Wadi Rum in my recent trip to Jordan.  My visit to the Wadi Rum was an amazing experience as I had never had been in such a landscape before.  In an earlier post, I shared how I found color everywhere I went in Jordan.  It is now time to focus on one of the places I explored during my trip.

The visit began at the well-set-up Visitor Center which has great information, a surprisingly good restaurant and an excellent view of the rock/mountain Lawrence himself called the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a reference from the Book of Proverbs.

Wadi Rum visitor center Seven Pillars Wisdom

Entering the Visitor Center, one immediately is rewarded by a view of the Seven Pillars!

T.E. Lawrence, his real name, became involved in the Arab Revolt in the late 1910s when the Arab peoples were revolting against the Ottoman Empire.  Lawrence fell in love with the Wadi Rum area and now I can understand why.  I hope sharing this adventure will also do the same for you and that you get inspired to see it in person some day!

Spending the afternoon exploring the Wadi Rum desert

We left the Visitor Center to find the vehicles that would take the group to explore the Wadi Rum well into the evening, prior to arriving at the Captain’s Camp where we would spend the night (and I will write about this in another post coming up soon).

Transportation Wadi Rum desert Jordan

Off we went in these pick up truck -type vehicles!

Soon we got deep in the incredible mountains/rocks formations characteristic of the Wadi Rum as well as have fun running up dunes and actually witnessing a rare rainstorm in the area (mercifully not over us!)

Sand dune in the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan outdoors adventure exploring travel

Sand dune soon to be “hit” by us visitors!

Typical vista or panorama of Wadi Rum desert in Jordan outdoors adventure

Note the Bedouin camp

Iconic landscape Wadi Rum rock formations, desert in Jordan outdoors nature adventure Canon EOS Rebel

Typical / iconic landscape the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan is known for

Amazing rock formations and colors in the Wadi Rum desert Jordan nature adventure outdoors Lawrence

Amazing rock formations and colors in the Wadi Rum!

Barrah Siq Wadi Rum Jordan Lawrence Arabia Bedouin history revolt desert outdoors nature adventure

Barrah Siq where the large rock in the bottom has a carving of Lawrence of Arabia; alongside a Bedouin camp

carving Lawrence of Arabia's face in Barrah Siq Wadi Rum Jordan desert outdoors Olympus

Close-up of the carving of Lawrence of Arabia’s face in Barrah Siq

Canyon siq "wadi rum" desert jordan camel sand travel photo outdoors adventure Olympus

This photo offers a better sense of the scale of the place

Rain storm Wadi Rum desert Jordan outdoors unusual travel nature adventure Olympus

The rare rainstorm in the distance – even lightning!

And then dusk began in the desert!

I thought we’d be done exploring as soon as it started getting dark and, while that was close to reality, we still got to enjoy dusk driving around – which made me appreciate the Wadi Rum in a different light, so to speak.

Dusk sunset "Wadi Rum" desert Jordan sky outdoors nature  Olympustravel

Sunset begins…

The magical sky at sunset "Wadi Rum" desert Jordan travel outdoors Olympus photo

The magical sky at sunset

Sunset "Wadi Rum" desert Jordan sky cloud light outdoors nature adventure travel photo Olympus

The clouds played nicely in the sunset scene

"Wadi Rum" sunset night light desert Jordan travel photo

The ride is getting closer to ending as the lights come on. Still a beautiful backdrop!

And the method of exploring changes the next morning!

Camel "Wadi Rum" desert Jordan exploration outdoors adventure wild photo travel

Our ride the next morning: Wadi Rum camels!

Riding camels "Wadi Rum" desert Jordan outdoors adventure travel photo

Riding camels! Yours truly in the blue shirt (via J. Festa – thanks!)

And to finish this, a shot taken by a fellow traveler about ilivetotravel in action!

Photographer ilivetotravel "Wadi Rum" Jordan travel adventure outdoors photo

Notice the tarp covering the back of our pick-up truck. And me so focused… (again, thanks J. Festa!)

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

Photo Essay – Colors of Jordan

Before my trip to Jordan, I had this mental image that Jordan was mostly a desert. I knew Jordan faced the Gulf of Aqaba and the Dead Sea and I recalled from my quick visit to Petra (on a day trip from Sharm-el-Sheikh, Egypt), that Petra would have some reddish color to it. But it’s like, if I thought how Jordan would look like, I would have said “fairly mono-chromatic”.

OK, I exaggerate a little.  But the range of vivid colors I encountered during my visit became quite apparent once I was home walking through each of the 3,000+ pictures I took during my 9 days there (yes, quite a few were duplicates as I tried different settings and angles for a given “scene”; so far I am down to around 2,000).  What I found out is that that desert color was a perfect background for all the others colors to pop.  And pop they did!

So, I have decided to share where I found color that caught my eye that will, hopefully, give you a glimpse into Jordan!  When you are done, I would love to hear back from you on which of these photos you like the most (photos are numbered for ease of reference!).

I found color in the landscapes in Jordan…

Much as I had experienced back in 1998, I got to see the colors typically associated with deserts.  But on this trip, I also saw the color of canyons and gorges.  White, sand, red – all colors represented in the landscape around me as I hope the following pictures show…

Desert road Jordan

1. On the way to Mt. Nebo from Mardaba – sand color everywhere except the asphalt

Sand dune Wadi Rum Jordan

2. Shifting sands in the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan

Wadi between Dana and Feynan, Jordan Olympus

3. Canyon we hiked through from Dana to Feynan – great mix of white and red with specks of green on the mountains around us

Canyon walls in Petra Jordan with Canon Rebel

4. Colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan!

Colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan Canon Rebel

5. More colorful canyon walls in Petra, Jordan

Colorful rocks in Wadi Mujib, Jordan Olympus camera

6. Colorful rocks in the waters of Wadi Mujib, Jordan

Colorful rocks in Wadi Mujib, Jordan Olympus camera

7. Colorful rocks in the walls Wadi Mujib, Jordan

I found color in the markets of Jordan…

Jewelry sold by folks around Petra, Jordan

8. Jewelry sold by folks around Petra

Camels with color in Jordan

9. Who knew camels would be so colorful!

Arab headscarves in Jordan Canon Rebel

10. Headscarves in the traditional colors worn by many around Jordan

Fruits in the fruit stands in the market in Amman, Jordan Canon Rebel

11. Fruits in the fruit stands in the market in Amman, Jordan

Colorful market roof in the Amman, Jordan market Canon Rebel

12. Colorful market roof in the Amman, Jordan market

I found color in the architecture – old and new – in Jordan…

Ruins column Jerash Roman Jordan

13.  Color of old ruins in the Greco-Roman town of Jerash, Jordan

Ruins Jerash column blue sky Jordan

14.  A still-standing column in Jerash makes a great contrast with the perfectly blue sky

King Abdullah Mosque blue Amman, Jordan

15.  The blues of the dome of King Abdullah’s Mosque (the Blue Mosque) of Amman and the blue of the sky

Inside view of the dome of King Abdullah's Mosque in Amman, Jordan (blue mosque)

16.  Inside view of the dome of King Abdullah’s Mosque (built in the 1980s)

Petra's Treasury in Jordan

17.  The unforgettable Treasury at Petra, Jordan

I found great blues in the waters around Jordan…

Blue sky and Dead Sea

18. A sea and a sky both drapped in great blue!

Beautiful blues in the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba, Olympus

19.  Beautiful blues in the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba

I found color in sunsets over the Dead Sea…

Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan, Canon EOS Rebel

20.  Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan, Olympus

21.  Double sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan, Canon EOS Rebel

22.  Sunset over the Dead Sea in Jordan

I found color in Jordanian artisans’ art…

Raw material for creation of mosaic art in workshop in Jordan

23.  The raw materials that will create beautiful mosaics are colorful on their own…

Mosaic art Jordan

24. Mosaic art: not only the great colors but also the shapes draw me

Art handicraft craft Jordan

25.  Beautiful art in this colorful vase

And I found a colorful people in Jordan!

Schoolchildren in Jerash, Jordan

26.  Schoolchildren visiting the ruins of Jerash – singing and showing their pride in their country – a colorful bunch!

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Thank you to the Jordan Tourism Board for showing me all the colors in Jordan.

Pin Jordan to your travel board!!!

Jordan, Canyon, color, nature, outdoors, adventure, photo, travel, explore

Going for Terracotta Soldiers – and Discovering a City

When friends and I decided to go to China for 10 days, it was a totally clean sheet of paper in terms of what we wanted to do.  BeijingXi’anShanghaiInner Mongolia?  Lots of choices and not enough time (is there ever?).  We knew we would be in Hong Kong pre- and post- China visit as we were going to visit a common friend.  So we looked at the map and tried to figure out what would be reasonable given the amount of time and distances to cover…

The Terracotta Soldiers

At some point we decided Xi’an, with its famous terracotta soldiers HAD to be in the itinerary.  I mean, we can see the soldiers “on tour” as they are shown in museums around the world at different times – but nothing better than going to the actual site since we were already going to be in China. Shanghai and Beijing are big cities, always there for a potential business trip (should I be with the right company!).  And a big city is, after all, a big city… (more true of Shanghai than Beijing, I am sure).  But Xi’an?  Unlikely work will take me there (unless I pursue an Indiana Jones career…).

Terracotta Soldier in Xi'an, China (Xian)

So, off we went.  Of course, driving out to see the place where the soldiers were unearthed was pretty cool.  You could visualize how it was found by a farmer.  While the site itself had grown a large structure to protect to digs (the real dig:  where they have been and will be continued to be unearthed some day), there was still enough undeveloped land (this was a few years ago!).

Terracotta soldier and horses in Xi'an, China (Xian)

As you may know, the soldiers, when first unearthed, are colored but the color quickly disintegrates (or whatever the technical term is!) so they have stopped digging them up until technology has evolved enough to be able to preserve the coat of colors.  You may also know that each soldier is different.  I don’t mean in pose or attire but their actual faces.  How impressive is that?  We saw some being repaired as some broke as they were buried.

Terracotta soldier under repair in Xi'an, China (Xian)

What I Really Liked about Xi’an?

While the soldiers are the headline, Xi’an is like many other places in the world:  there are other awesome sights and experiences to be had besides the “headliner”.  The city walls are massive and impressive.  A walk around them is a must to appreciate the town.  Just look at the width of the top of the wall!  China does walls well.

Xi'an - City Wall in Xian China on a gray day

But Xi’an is more than the soldiers and the city walls.  I encourage you to explore the city, more than we got to do with our limited time.  It felt VERY different than monstrous and dysfunctional Beijing.  Xi’an came across as a city I would WANT TO live in!

Xi'an - View from City Wall in Xian, China

Xi'an - Pagoda by City Wall in Xian, China

Our last day ended with us losing our car to take us to the airport after visiting a temple site and we had to scramble to find a car to take us to the airport.  It was not easy where we were and we were tugging my friends’ 3-yr old in her stroller – which proved to be why someone finally took pity on us to help us find a car to get to the airport!  A story I will never forget!

Xi'an - Traffic at an intersection in Xian, China

 

Picture of the Week – Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Many moons ago I finally got to see Constantinople, er Byzantium, er Istanbul.  After so many years hearing about this place and its history, I finally was going to see face-to-face some of the places I had studied or heard about.  At the top of my list:  the Hagia Sophia.  A monument of Christianity that transcended time, religion, and utilization.  Here is one of my pictures of that amazing creation of architects, engineers, and builders…

Hagia Sophia

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