An Attic Church in Amsterdam

When The Netherlands left Catholicism after the Reformation, all Catholic churches became Protestant churches. While the Dutch were able to practice any religion, Catholics were not allowed to practice Catholicism in any public setting (let’s say, a loose definition of religious freedom was at play; they were allowed to be Catholic but only to practice in private). Therefore, people turned to private settings for the celebration of Mass and house “churches” came about around the country, hence this attic church in Amsterdam came about.

Amsterdam’s hidden Catholic church

One such place has remained intact, as it was set up a couple of centuries ago. It is known today as Our Lord in the Attic. The man who built this setting for Mass in the connected attics of three houses also lived in one of the houses. He was a rich merchant in 17th century Amsterdam. His last name was Hartman so the church was known as the “Hart Church” for some time.

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attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam
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attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam, altar

Visiting the attic church

One can visit this neat museum that still holds Mass on the first Sunday of each month and on Christmas Day. One not only can see the “church”, the priest’s quarters, but also the family’s residence.

The museum acquired a property across the side alley and the main entrance, shop, etc. are located there.. One goes downstairs to then, through a tunnel that runs under that side alley, one reaches where the visit begins.

In that space, one can see a model of the two buildings and visualize the space about to be explored. I recommend coming back and taking a look at the model ONCE the visit has been done.

Also, it is at that point where the visitor picks up the optional audio guide. The audio guide is included in the entrance fee (16.5 euros when I visited). It is highly recommended to use it so the place is better understood and appreciated.

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The canal house hosting the attic church

The living quarters may seem austere to us today but the house seems to have been spacious. The rooms are not all loaded up with furniture to show how it exactly was but there are some pieces of furniture and art.

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Above: spacious living room. Below: dining room and bedroom!
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Grandiose room with a massive fireplace!
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The house’s kitchen

A canal house with a great view of the canal

Take a look at the great view from the main level through the window and then from up higher. Of course, the area is now nicely painted and with modern vehicles but still a great view!

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The priest’s quarters

As I mentioned earlier, the priest was also provided a place to live in the back. It seemed like a spacious and convenient spot even if without the canal view the owner and his family enjoyed. And a potty closet to boot!

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Crazy staircases!

Of note to me were the two original staircases that remain. Steep, curvy – they require paying attention to not trip or fall!

crazy steep staircases, old canal house amsterdam

This is likely not atypical for many of the houses in Amsterdam’s historic center. Yet one more reason to check out Our Lord in the Attic: to see how Amsterdam’s beautiful canal houses felt like back when and could still be today!

Photos of the Week – Sights of Amsterdam

Amsterdam is such a unique city.  It is like Venice meets… meets… I am not sure what!  It is a charm typical of old cities, of cities by the water, of cities with architecture seen nowhere else, and of cities with a one-of-a-kind type of energy (and I don’t mean that in terms of the red light district!).

I first went to Amsterdam in 1999 when I had business there (most of my time in The Netherlands, though, was actually in The Hague, or Den Haag).  I had not returned to Amsterdam since then (except connecting through its wonderful airport) until earlier this year when I overnighted there on my way back home after skiing in Austria.

I took advantage of the limited time to walk out and about at night, and then do a quick morning walk before heading to the airport.  Though a short visit, it took me back to 1999 and it made me re-discover why I like the city so much.  I wish I had had time to visit the museums I have never gotten to explore (back in 1999, I wasn’t touristing – had no time for that!), and be a little more aimless in the walking around.  But, hopefully, I will have another chance!  In the meantime, here are some photos from my short visit!

 Night photos of Amsterdam

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Notice the not-straight door and windows on the right!

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Right outside of the train station

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Train station

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Royal Palace

Day Photos of Amsterdam

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By the train station – a bunch of bikes!

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Red doorways – cool

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OK, not a photo of Amsterdam but of me leaving it in style!

More Than Just Where a Treaty Was Signed: Charming Maastricht

The charming town of Maastricht sits in the “tear drop” southeastern corner of The Netherlands by the Meuse River (“Maas” in Dutch, hence the town name). a stone’s throw from Belgium and a hard ball kick from Germany, as it were.  The town is known these days more because of the European union project since Maastricht is were the sane-named treaty launching the European Union was signed here in 1992.

I went to visit a college friend who was residing there as an ex-pat because I happened to be working in Frankfurt at the time.   The town is an old town, settled by the Romans who built a bridge across the Meuse River in the 1st century AD.    Maastricht also sat an an important point in Charlemagne’s empire around the 9th century AD which later evolved to the Holy Roman Empire.   The city has been ruled by French, Spanish, German, dukes, princes, bishops, and, of course the Dutch.  The city almost ended up in Belgium when Belgium separated from the United Kingdom of The Netherlands in the 1830s.  Finally, it was the first Dutch city to be liberated by the Allies in WWII.  All this to say that, though you may not know much about Maastricht as me before I went, it is an old and quite historical place.

I found the locals to be quite friendly.  I recall how the old owner of a pub my friend frequented told me when we went there to hang out and have a beer that he loved Americans because they liberated his town from the Nazis.  This was over 50 yrs after the fact and he must have been a kid when it happened but the feeling was fresh and strong.

The town is quaint and beautiful, what other adjectives can I use?  Walk its streets as does everyone there and shop or just look around )like in the high-end Stokstraat street).  Admire the architecture and details (like what they used to joist furniture and other stuff up to higher stories of the buildings).

Going up the 70m tall red bell tower of the Protestant Church of St. John’s (St. Jan) is a must.  St. John (as in St. John the Baptist) was built in Gothic style around the 12th and 13th century and it provides great views of the town below and the neighboring Roman Catholic Basilica of St. Servatius (St. Servaas) with its twin towers, built on the site where the saint was buried in Romanesque style also around the 11th and 12th century.  Walk around their grounds and then end up in Vrijthof Square, visiting a museum or hanging out a café.

I hope that more people venture beyond ever-popular Amsterdam to discover towns like Maastricht to get a more complete view of The Netherlands.  Take a look at the gallery of photos and tell me what you think!  Click on a photo to enlarge it

 

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