Rouen: Full of History in War and Art

France has so many destinations to explore, it is hard to cover them all or explore them as in-depth as they deserve. Even after living in Paris for 6 months many years ago, I could not cover all the territory that I would have liked. One of the towns that I always wanted to visit was Rouen, in Normandy. Why? Two things have always drawn me to it:

  • Its cathedral, made eternal not only by its construction but by its depiction by Claude Monet under different light and seasons.
  • Its infamous designation as the town were St. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake by the English at 18 years of age.

Getting there

From Paris, going to Rouen is a piece of cake. A two-hour train ride from Gare St. Lazare takes you to Rouen. From the train station in Rouen, a half-a-mile walk (or less) takes you into the center of town. There is a metro station near the train station and the heart of the town is just one or two stops away. But I recommend walking in as it is sort of downhill!

Surprised by Rouen

I am not sure what architecture I should have expected but I was surprised by the architecture in the old town. It looked a lot like the architecture that I saw around Strasbourg and Colmar in southeastern France. The town center was beautiful!


Monet’s Cathedral

Monet gave this old cathedral a favor by his work showing its glory in different times of year and under different light. I enjoyed playing with photo filters to re-enact his work with my layman’s skillset and tools…

The cathedral sports a magnificent façade that clearly lost a few statues at some point; some of the remnants can be seen inside the church. There are some tombs of former kings from over a millennium ago. Impressive.


Odd church… to St. Joan of Arc

As we walked in the old part of town, we saw this oddity in the middle of some square or plaza. It really looked weird and like it did not belong. The more I looked at it, the more it began to look like some Viking structure. It turned out to be the church built on the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake after being accused of many false things by the English (whom she had helped fight on the French side before she was even 19!). Once we identified what it was, the architecture began to make more sense.

The site was very moving. There is a very tall cross right outside the church on the spot where this poor and very brave young woman died for France. The inside of the church seems to fit the story. When I looked at the ceiling, the ceiling seemed to flow up to a point – like a flame would. It was all very moving indeed…


Crêpes!

When one goes to Paris, one is well-served by eating crêpes from the stands around town. But, in Normandy, eating crêpes is a must! We found a great mom-n-pop place, Kerso, where we enjoyed crêpes salés and crêpes sucrés for lunch. Really cool find!

Though only a half day visit, I definitely got my money’s worth and more checking out this most interesting of French towns!

Christmas Time in Strasbourg – A Beautiful Sight

One of Europe’s capitals is not the capital of a country. It is one of the capitals of a union that is not a country: the European Union. Strasbourg, currently sitting in France, is one of those capitals, along with Brussels. It sits sort of in the middle of France’s border with Germany, who formally owned the land where Strasbourg. Strasbourg is a stone’s throw away the border, so to speak. It has been a complicated life for Alsace and its main city, Strasbourg…

Palais de l'Europe, Palace of Europe, Strasbourg
Palais de l’Europe (Palace of Europe – sounds self-promoting…)

A Christmas market cruise tour decision

When I first looked at my Rhine Christmas market cruise’s itinerary, I was excited to see so many neat places on the list (check this post for tips and places to experience on this cruise). Strasbourg, in particular, was an appealing stop in the cruise. It may bewilder some who know me but I opted for a walking city tour instead of –gasp– a wine tasting session of the region’s famous wines. I cringed at having to choose but I definitely wanted to explore the city; I could always buy Alsatian wines and taste at home, no??

Entering the town

We approached the city’s heart via the Ponts Couverts bridge which offers views of beautiful buildings of traditional architecture of the region.

Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France
13th century towers
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France, Alsatian architecture
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture

Most charming was the structure on the tiny island on the Quai du Woerthel with the tiniest of walkways to it from the bridge.

Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture
Next picture shows the path from the bridge…
Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg, France Alsatian architecture
Narrow – and clearly not used often

Lunch in Strasbourg

I chose well. We started with the small-group guided walking tour but we broke away from it at some point to have meal in a local restaurant that had been recommended (“Le Tire-bouchon” – or corkscrew). A small, tightly-packed placed that , yet, had a spot for our even-smaller group.

typical Alsatian meal, France, Strasbourg, Tire-bouchon

The dessert was my favorite dessert ever: chocolate mousse. And I knew ahead of time, I was not sharing with the table… (OK, my Mom got a spoonful, after all, she brought me to this world!) It was SPECTACULAR!

chocolate mousse, Tire-bouchon, Strasbourg, Alsace, foodie
How does one say “Don’t touch it” in French?

After lunch, my Mom and I broke off (yet again) from the smaller group and meandered on our own.


Christmas decorations in Strasbourg’s streets

Words can’t describe how beautiful and festive the side streets were. It was all as if out of a dream, beyond what Disney could achieve in any of its parks! The charming and beautiful buildings were purely out of a story book.

Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg

Calling what we looking at “architecture” sounds pretentious. But it is also over-simplifying what we were looking at. The storefronts and buildings aim to out-decorate each other and they manage to do so without looking gaudy – French style reigning supreme!

Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg
Strasbourg at Christmas, Navidad en Estrasburgo, Noel a Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s Notre Dame Cathedral

We walked into Strasbourg’s magnificent, medieval, one-towered, rose Cathedral of Notre-Dame to check it out. It seems to have taken 250 years to get built, finishing in the first half of the 15th century. Before America was discovered…

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Almost impossible to get a full shot of the front of the Cathedral

Its interior is something to explore for sure – worth the line!

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame
Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame

Its astronomical clock is supposed to be worth seeing in action – something we missed.

Strasbourg cathedral, astronomical clocl

As the day progresses, light hits the Cathedral’s pink sandstone exterior differently and it feels like its façade changes color.

Strasbourg Cathedral, catedral de Estrasburgo, Cathedral de Notre-Dame

Of course, the exterior around Christmas time is also wrapped by the many Christmas market stands that make the city both a beautiful and festive place to visit at this special time of the year!

Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo
Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo
Christmas markets, mercados de Navidad, Strasbourg, Estrasburgo

Joyeux Noël!!

Strasbourg, Estrasburgo, feliz Navidad, Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël

Experiencing Christmas Markets along the Rhine River

One of the most iconic images of the Christmas season is the Christmas-time, outdoor markets common in many parts of Europe. In this post, I will share both how I experienced Christmas markets in three countries and my tips for a most enjoyable visit!

I have always wanted to visit these markets out of curiosity and also as a way to enjoy the Advent season in full spirit ahead of Christmas (technically, it is not Christmas until December 25th!). The opportunity came to do this with a Rhine River cruise friends of mine were doing. Doing a river cruise has been on my Mom’s travel “wish list” so I could knock out an item from each of our lists!

During your visit, in case you see street signs, know that Christmas in German is “Weihnachten” and “Noël” in French!

Place #1 – Aachen, Germany

We only got to spend a brief 1.5 hours in Aachen, mainly spent at its cathedral. But we had time to venture into the Christmas market next to it. Though we got distracted by a bakery across the street from it, we still had time to venture into the Christmas market next to the cathedral. By the way, it may seem I am kind of cheating mentioning this one as it is not on the Rhine but it was on our way to reaching the river coming from Brussels!

Christmas market in Aachen, Germany

Tip #1 – Prepare for any weather

Tip 1a: Bundle up!

Clearly I am stating the obvious but… being outdoors 2-4 hours is different than a 15-minute walk in cold weather. While there are hot beverages available, that will not suffice! Depending on the day and the town, it could be quite cold. Then add the potential for wind and/or rain and it becomes even more a challenge to enjoying the markets!

Tip 1b: Wear shoes that can handle rain or snow

At a couple of places we had rain or a drizzle. It could be miserable – if you are not prepared or if you let it affect your spirits! While I cannot help much with the latter, for the former I recommend waterproof and “slip-proof” shoes.

Tip 1c: Avoid the hassle of an umbrella

Also, I would recommend a rain jacket/coat/poncho with a hood than using an umbrella for a couple of reasons. One, it leaves your hands free to check out the goods in the markets, or to hold your cup or drink while still allowing a free hand. Two, some of the streets or aisles are narrow and at times crowded. An umbrella creates for navigation issues as you walk around!

Place #2 – Cologne, Germany

It will not be a surprise that Cologne (Köln) has several Christmas markets as it is one of the largest towns on the list here. They are spread out enough so that you get to explore the streets of the town and happen by important places like the historic and imposing cathedral (as with many of the places mentioned here, more on them in future posts!), other churches, museums, town hall, etc. These interesting places can become a distraction from the Christmas markets – and rightly so! My advice: plan for more time in Cologne if you can so you can see more than the Christmas markets!

Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral - Germany
Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral

Tip #2 – Don’t judge markets by the first one

As in everything (or most everything) in life, don’t assume all Christmas markets will be like the first one you visit. Though many things will feel the same, markets can vary in terms of the types of goods offered. Also, a town may have just one or two markets whereas another may have several. And perhaps hours of operation differ (in Basel, for example, the market by the cathedral opened at 11 AM on the weekday I visited).

Place #3 – Rüdesheim, Germany

This small town certainly packed a punch when it came to the Christmas market scene! The stands were everywhere in the heart of the town and by the river. And the pedestrian streets were jammed pack with people! It felt like a fun place to be.

Christmas market and streets of Rudesheim, Germany by the Rhine River

Tip #3 – Partake in the glühwein and food

The Christmas markets are well-known for offering visitors hot beverages to help with staying warm. While hot chocolate and hot juices are available, the typical drink is spiced, watered-down wine called glühwein normally available with white or red wine. It certainly is a unique beverage and, being diluted, it is not as strong as a real glass of wine. Normally not a fan of spices like cinnamon and others but I can tolerate this spiced wine as it feels good to hold the hot cup in my cold hands!

Gluhwein stand in Colmar, France
In France, ask for “vin chaud”!

Also worth noting is all the good food around the kiosks (besides the regular cafes or restaurants available)! Many local specialties like baked goods, flammkuchen, sausages, pretzels, etc. Don’t miss out!

Sausage stand at Christmas market in Cologne, Germany by the cathedral
You can ALMOST smell the sausages!

Oh, and how could I forget! When you order the glühwein, keep in mind that if you return the mug, you get a refund. Or, if you want the mug as a souvenir, you don’t have to return it. What they charged you up front, assumes you will not return it. You can walk around the market or out of it while you sip your drink! In some towns like Strasbourg, we noticed that many stands only offer a cheap plastic cup whereas other stands have the real mugs. Also, in Rüdesheim we got some mugs from 2016. You may or may not care, just want you to be aware!

Gluhwein stand at a Christmas market in Heidelberg, Germany
Plenty of mugs in this Heidelberg stand!

Place #4 – Heidelberg, Germany

Again, we have a place technically not on the Rhine River but typically part of the itinerary of many cruises courtesy of a bus ride! Of course, the most important thing to do in Heidelberg is to visit its imposing castle above town. Not only is it an impressive set of structures and ruins, it also offers great views of the town and the Neckar River that goes through it.

Christmas market in Heidelberg. Germany

I have to say the Christmas markets I got to visit there were the least impressive of the ones I visited (Aachen’s was smaller but felt nicer). Thankfully, Heidelberg has a lot of things going for it.

Tip #4 – Check them out at day and at night

Daytime is short this time of year in these latitudes so this will not be hard to do. The Christmas markets felt different at night than in the daytime. It may be that they seemed to become more festive but that could be related to increased alcohol consumption perhaps? In any case, I’d suggest checking them out at these different times. This could also give you the opportunity perhaps to sit down somewhere for a proper meal intown or enjoy the local kiosk food.

Christmas market in Rudesheim, Germany along the Rhine River
Rüdesheim fun-filled streets at night

Place #5 – Strasbourg, France

This important seat of the European Union’s Parliament is quite a city. Its cathedral is fairly magnificent and its streets are lined with beautiful shops. Of course, this is one of the best places for Alsatian cuisine so I recommend not only walking to all the Christmas markets and side streets but also investing in a good lunch or dinner! Read more about how I experienced Strasbourg at Christmas here.

Chrismas market by the Strasbourg Cathedral in the Alsace region of France
Stands in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral

Tip #5 – Don’t buy everything in the first market

As you may expect, some of the goods (souvenirs or regular Christmas decorations) available in the markets are similar. But, since the towns along the river don’t share fully the same culture or history, there will be some variation in the items available. Even markets in one town may have different focus so the goods can vary there too. So don’t spend all your money in the first market or town!

Goods at a Christmas market in Germany
Not just Christmas goods but local and practical crafts!
Goods at a Christmas market in Germany

Place #6 – Colmar, France

As Aachen and Heidelberg, Colmar is not along the Rhine River. The main “port” on the river near it would be Breisach, Germany. This French town close to the border with Germany is a real gem, Christmas markets or not! It is breathtaking to meander its streets and see all the beautiful buildings all around (this town is definitely worth a separate blog post!). In Christmas, as in other towns, many establishments decorate part of their facade which adds to charm of Colmar.

Street in Strasbourg, France decorated for Christmas (Noël)
One of the best decorations (this store in Strasbourg)

Navigating the streets is easiest with a map as the streets twist and turn but maps also make it seem that it takes longer to reach a given location. I can’t recall actually how many markets we visited but we enjoyed at least half of the six that were pointed out to us in the map. The tourist info office offers maps especially marked with the Christmas markets.

Tip #6 – Buy it if you like it

While tip #5 is true (don’t rush to buy everything in the first town), the flipside is also important. If you find something that catches your fancy, buy it then and there. You are not guaranteed you will find it in a later town!

Place #7 – Basel, Switzerland

If I understood correctly, there should be three Christmas markets in Basel, Switzerland. I visited two and did not run into the third. The ones I visited were in the city center. One was right by the cathedral on the hill and the other was below near the Basel Historical Museum (on Barfüsser Platz). I found the latter to have a good variety of items. I bought not only a glass of glühwein there but also marzipan goodies (delicious!).

Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid - Christmas Market in Basel Switzerland
Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid

Tip #7 – Take time to soak it all in

Looking at all the goods, eating and sipping a hot glühwein is all well and good. However, standing for a few minutes (or more) is rewarding too. Though there certainly will be tourists, locals enjoy these markets too! For example, we stood by a small counter in Aachen sipping our drink and watching the atmosphere around us. We also found a spot to sit outdoors and chat with friends in a hole-in-the-wall in Rüdesheim. We got to watch tourists and locals enjoy this special time of the year when many people may think it best to sit in the warmth of the indoors at home!

Also, walking through the streets of these towns and looking at regular stores is a must. As mentioned earlier, many places decorate and the spirit is festive in the city centers!

Christmas market in Cologne, Germany
Christmas market in Cologne

In the end, however you want to “do” the markets, do them! It is certainly different than how I have experienced Christmas before and maybe it will be so for you too!

Save this pin to your travel planning board!

Christmas markets, Cologne, weihnachten, mercados de Navidad, Germany
%d bloggers like this: