Germany - ilivetotravel's travel log

A Gem to Behold in Bavaria: Würzburg, Germany

19 October 2024 by Raul Leave a Comment

Germany is not short of beautiful scenery, be it natural or man-made. On the natural side, there are the forests, their rivers (and some of them with phenomenal views around them, like the Rhein or Danube), or the mountains to the south. On the man-made side, there are many great things, and there is more than one gem to behold in Bavaria! Just this one region is full of beautiful and impressive towns, big and small.

Wurzburg fortress, Residentplatz, Bayern festung, Wurzburg palace, Visiting Bavaria — View of old town and Marienberg Fortress

In May of this year, I got to pay a visit to an “undiscovered” gem. I mean undiscovered because, to my shame, I had never really seen or heard of Würzburg!

Thanks for friends who live in Germany, short drive took us to Würzburg. There are a few sights to not miss intown.

A palace to behold: Residenzplatz

In the edge of the old town, one can find this 18th century mini-Versailles palace. It almost feels out of place in Bavaria for those of us who have not explored the area much beyond Munich or Nuremberg.

Residentplatz was severely damaged during World War II as many sites in Germany but there are some parts that are original and many that are faithfully reconstructed. The palace is impressive.

Some rooms are quite ornate – great reproductions of the pre-War structure.

Wurzburg fortress, Residentplatz, Bayern festung, Wurzburg palace, Visiting Bavaria, Marienberg fortress, fortress on a hill

Who knew a smaller town would have such a regal place!

Walkable and easy old town

Würzburg’s town center is compact and full of life. Market, cafés, shops, and churches are all right there in a small area – easy to walk about and around. St. Mary’s Chapel (Marienkapelle) is the anchor in the large town square “Marktplatz”.

Wurzburg fortress, Residentplatz, Bayern festung, Wurzburg palace, Visiting Bavaria, Marienberg fortress, fortress on a hill, Marienkapelle

I can see a phenomenal Christmas market being held there every Christmas – must be a fun one!

The old bridge along the river Main is full of life especially as it has a popular stand on the town entrance to it.

Wurzburg fortress, Residentplatz, Bayern festung, Wurzburg palace, Visiting Bavaria, Marienberg fortress, fortress on a hill, Marienkapelle, Wurzburg alte bruck

Marienberg Fortress

Marienberg Fortress or “Marienberg Festung” dominates the town across the river from the old town. One can drive up to it going the back way or one can climb up from the riverside. Upon reaching the top, one is rewarded with great views of Würzburg and beyond by walking the ramparts. That, by itself, makes it worth the visit. Doing this also allows to explore the outer walls and towers of the fortress from the outside

The fortress, which dates from the 13th century, grew and evolved through medieval and baroque architectural styles.

It not only served as a fortress defending the region against many threats but it also served as the home-base of Prince-Bishops who ruled the area for centuries. These were not only political rulers but also great drivers of art, architecture and scientific endeavors in the region.

While Munich is what tourists visiting Bavaria focus on, they are missing out in understanding the depth and richness of Bavaria’s history and assets if they just stick to Munich. Würzburg would be a good choice due to its charm but also due to its location, on its way to other places in Bavaria and Germany!

Filed Under: Europe, Europe, Germany, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bayern festung, fortress on a hill, gem in bavaria, Marienberg fortress, Marienkapelle, Residentplatz, Visiting Bavaria, Wurzburg alte bruck, Wurzburg fortress, Wurzburg palace

Cruising the Rhine – A Unique Music Cabinet Museum

9 January 2020 by Raul 2 Comments

Let’s talk about seeing a music cabinet – something I had never heard of before!

gramophone, musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

Rüdesheim am Rhein is one of those charming towns along the Rhine River in Germany that make you glad you spend the time traveling to new places. UNESCO agrees and, therefore, Rüdesheim and the region around it are designated as a World Heritage Site.

My December Christmas markets cruise made a stop there after passing through the scenic part of the Rhein earlier that day. Unfortunately, that only left us with the afternoon and early evening to enjoy Rüdesheim but I am not complaining (the scenic part of the Rhine is amazing to behold with the small towns and hilltop castles that grace the river banks).

Later that day we got to meet up with my college roommate and his wife with whom I went to Hamburg last year. They live an hour or so away so it was awesome that Rüdesheim was a stop for the cruise. We enjoyed glühwein with a shot of rum, laughed, and reminisced in a very festive environment at a small establishment in the town. I am not sure if it was the side patio of a restaurant or a pub or what; but we found a high table to camp at and hang out away from the cold wind!

Besides having walked the town center and see the Christmas markets, the other more cultural experience we had intown was to visit a music museum in Rüdesheim.

musical cabinet, mechanical music instrument, rudesheim, germany

It is not what I would have picked given a set of choices but I have learned in my travels (and life in general) to let myself just go with the flow. In this case, the flow being a short walk through town with a local guide arranged by the cruise. That walk was to end in the music museum where we would spend an hour or so led by a museum guide.

Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum

Maybe I am mistaken in calling it a music museum. The German name of the museum, Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum (Siegfried’s Mechanisches Musikkabinett), more appropriately calls it a musical cabinet museum.

The museum, family-owned for 3 generations for the last 50 years, is the home of different “machines” that play music. It could be a gramophone or one of those massive cabinets you may have seen at a circus or fair that play music but no instruments (or humans!) are visible. Usually, the instruments are hidden inside the cabinets. It seems fair to call them machines as no humans are intervening to play the instruments (other than cranking the machine or turning them on, I suppose).

Sample cabinet with several instruments

The instruments range from small hand-cranked card-readers to large armoires to massive cabinets for a festival or circus. The antique gramophones were the most “normal” of the machines on display.

This one played metal (not vinyl!) discs!!

My favorite was the cabinet that played violins (single-stringed, if I understood correctly).

The museum is spread over a few small structures in the property (that dates originally from the 15th century) owned by the family. An adjoining building was lost in WW II bombings (before the museum exited) but the main tower survived.

Today, the third-generation son and the second-generation dad take care of the machines. The third generation daughter helps take care of the business aspects.

Visiting the Music Cabinet Museum

I visited the museum as an excursion organized by the cruise ship so I had no idea of the entrance fee or other details. Note that opening times vary by time of year and that they may be closed altogether in January and February. Guided tours are offered in different languages and are worth it (and entertaining!). The cost, as of this writing, is 8 euros for adults and half for others.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: germany, mechanical musical instruments, music cabinets in germany, Rüdesheim, what to see in the rhine river

Aachen and its Imperial Cathedral

3 January 2020 by Raul 2 Comments

Aachen is a town of a quarter million located in a corner of western Germany that abuts Belgium and The Netherlands (in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, to be more precise). History lovers and architecture fans will probably know of this German town. Its importance over centuries past was huge.

Architecture of Aachen, Germany — Buildings near the Cathedral

Why is Aachen important?

The spot has been inhabited for sure since Roman times. But, probably, Aachen’s importance gained territory when Charlemagne became a fan. Charlemagne should sound familiar from world history class though you can be forgiven if you don’t remember the why… He unified parts of Europe a few centuries after Rome fell and became what was called the first Holy Roman Emperor (maybe so-called because he was crowned in the precursor to today’s St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome?). Many came after him though later it stopped being a hereditary role – it was elected by important members of nobility of certain houses of Central and Western Europe (if I remember correctly).

Model of Aachen's Cathedral — Aachen’s famous Cathedral started with the structure in the center (the Octagon)

Building Aachen’s Cathedral

Charlemagne had spent time in Aachen years before he became Holy Roman Emperor and had a chapel (and palace) built there. This chapel (which only was declared a Cathedral in 1930) became where these emperors were crowned for centuries (from the 10th to the 16th). The Aachen Cathedral is where Charlemagne was buried (and claimed to be to this day).

Plan of the Cathedral of Aachen in a plaque outside the Cathedral — Plaque showing the layout of the Cathedral

The golden box in the altar (known as Karlsschrein) is supposedly where his remains were placed after being removed from another location within the church,

Karlsschrein or coffin with Charlemagne's remains — The *Karlsschrein* where Charlemagne’s remains are (may be)

Altar of the Aachen Cathedral (Germany) — Zooming out, the *Karlsschrein* in the back behind the altar in the choir

Another angle showing more of the choir and stained glass windows

The Cathedral structure began to be built in the ninth century but was added to or expanded in later centuries. The Cathedral’s façade betrays its construction over several centuries (architectural preferences). Its cupola and steeple were also added later.

The lower tower has a different style than the upper

View of the Cathedral’s position: a very tight plaza in front of it

Its interior was also enhanced by adding the marbled walls and the mosaics, for example.

Marbled walls of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany — The marble is outstanding!

The columns and arches supporting the cupola remind me of the Mezquita de Cordoba (Spain; the Cordoba Mosque; see photo below). Another addition was the 4-meter diameter chandelier donated by Barbarossa who was emperor in the 12th century.

Ceiling / Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral and Barbarossa's chandelier — So much to admire in this pic! At bottom, Barbarossa’s chandelier

The mosaics in the ceiling and on the high part of the main level columns are pure beauty.

Ceiling of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany with its golden mosaics — Mosaics in the cupola

Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany

Christmas market in Aachen

My mother and I made a short stop in Aachen on our way from Brussels, Belgium to Cologne, Germany to embark on our Rhine River cruise. After visiting the Cathedral’s interior, we walked around its exterior where we ran into our first Christmas market experience – and our first cup of glühwein (of many throughout our cruise!).

Exterior of Aachen's Cathedral (Aachen Dom) in Germany — Beautiful exterior

Christmas market in Aachen, Germany — The Christmas markets

Glühwein is mulled wine: diluted wine (red or wine) mixed with spices and heated up to keep Christmas market visitors warm in the cold day or night of French or German towns in December! Sometimes they add a shot of rum or another hard liquor to strengthen it but I just enjoyed the diluted wine version as I was just looking for warmth in my hands and tummy!

Gluhwein in Aachen, Germany — My Mom enjoyed her 1st gluhwein, all bundled up (you are not in FLA anymore!)

The Cathedral remains one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe. It suffered great damage during World War II but the main structure remained. We are fortunate today to have this jewel still present to link us to history, faith and architecture over the centuries.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Aachen, Alemania, Barbarossa chandelier, Charlemagne, church mosaics in Germany

The Magnificent Cologne Cathedral

27 December 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

The city of Cologne has been an important center in northwest Germany since the first century. It is the fourth largest city in Germany, is strategically located in important routes for commerce and transport, and is a center of culture, education and business. Its location on the Rhine River certainly plays a significant part in all of the above. And so it served as the starting point for the river cruise I took with my mother in December to explore Christmas markets along the Rhine River!

The Cathedral of Cologne from the edge of the Rhine River in Germany. — I saw the Cathedral at this distance from a train back in 1998!

Some important claims

Cologne’s Cathedral is the Cathedral of St. Peter though I did not know that until AFTER my trip. It is the tallest two-spired church in the world, and third tallest church overall in the world (it is the second tallest in Europe). This height gives it the largest façade of any church in the world. Its exterior screams “look at me, I’m Gothic” even to the most untrained architecture-amateur.

As reference, the Cathedral’s website provides the following key dimensions of the structure (among other interesting stats):

Top height: 157.22m (516ft)
Widest point: 86.25m (283ft)
Max length: 144.58m (474m)

Given its importance (read further down) and its magnitude, the Cologne Cathedral is Germany’s most visited site (6 million per year), something that surprised me considering the Berlin Wall remnants, the Brandenburg Gate, Dachau, and the Ulm Cathedral (the tallest church in Europe and second in the world).

All of this certainly makes it impressive and worth visiting and earned it being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Long-awaited completion!

The Cathedral’s foundation stone got laid back in 1248. However, its completion delayed over the centuries; in fact, it sat unfinished and not being worked on for 300+ years! Work resumed in the mid-19th century and was finally completed in 1880.

Though it got started in the 13th century, there has been some form of a church on the site at least since the 6th century. Thankfully, it survived post-revolutionary French destructiveness in this part of Germany though it was closed for worship for a few years thanks to the French.

Relics R Us

Tradition holds that the relics (bones) of the Three Wise Men (or Magi) were brought to Cologne. The Cathedral was designed as magnificent as it is due to the important role it would have: the home of the relics. It also was to serve as an important place of worship for the Holy Roman Emperor which also explains the imposing structure and very detailed ornamentation on the exterior.

But back to the Three Wise Men… their relics had ended up in Milan (mental note to learn more about that part some time…). Around 1164, the relics were transferred to Cologne by an Archbishop who had been granted the relics by Barbarossa (the more-used name for Holy Roman Emperor Friedrich I) after he had taken Milan with the support of the Archbishop. This was a great move by the Archbishop as it helped make Cologne one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Europe (Rome and Santiago de Compostela being among others in that category).

Take a look at the Cologne Cathedral!

So with all that as backdrop, take a look at this 2-min video (give or take a few seconds!) to see some of the exterior and interior of the Cathedral. The images used were taken while I visited Cologne’s Christmas markets so you will also get to see how lively the plaza next to the Cathedral was!

(While the pictures themselves are hopefully good, the assemblage may show my level of inexperience at pulling a video together!)

Visiting the Cologne Cathedral

As many active religious buildings of any faith, visiting while services are conducted is either restricted or limited to just those participating in the services. If you do not practice, in this case, the Catholic faith, visiting during a service is OK as long as you are there sitting down like everyone else, not taking photos, and being silent: it is important to respect those services and the faithful who attend them who share their place of worship with you as a visitor. I do think it is beautiful to observe another faith’s services if one is allowed to be there so by all means I encourage you to do that as long as you mind the basic etiquette laid out above.

All that said, the Cathedral’s visiting hours are during daytime and the hours do vary by time of year (summer vs. winter, to be brief) so check their website for precise hours. Be aware that Sundays and religious holidays will have more limited visiting hours as services are being conducted.

The Cologne Cathedral does offer guided tours. A couple of times a day it is offered in English. Special guided tours are available to the rooftop and Treasure chamber (which you can also visit on your own). Oh, and the Cathedral has an app that you can use to explore the church on your own! It is available in Google Play and the Apple App Store.

Finally, if you are up for it, you can climb one of the towers for 6 euros (adults) as of this writing (reduced by half for children and other special categories).

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Cologne cathedral, germany, rhine river cruise

Experiencing Christmas Markets along the Rhine River

14 December 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

One of the most iconic images of the Christmas season is the Christmas-time, outdoor markets common in many parts of Europe. In this post, I will share both how I experienced Christmas markets in three countries and my tips for a most enjoyable visit!

I have always wanted to visit these markets out of curiosity and also as a way to enjoy the Advent season in full spirit ahead of Christmas (technically, it is not Christmas until December 25th!). The opportunity came to do this with a Rhine River cruise friends of mine were doing. Doing a river cruise has been on my Mom’s travel “wish list” so I could knock out an item from each of our lists!

During your visit, in case you see street signs, know that Christmas in German is “Weihnachten” and “Noël” in French!

Place #1 – Aachen, Germany

We only got to spend a brief 1.5 hours in Aachen, mainly spent at its cathedral. But we had time to venture into the Christmas market next to it. Though we got distracted by a bakery across the street from it, we still had time to venture into the Christmas market next to the cathedral. By the way, it may seem I am kind of cheating mentioning this one as it is not on the Rhine but it was on our way to reaching the river coming from Brussels!

Tip #1 – Prepare for any weather

Tip 1a: Bundle up!

Clearly I am stating the obvious but… being outdoors 2-4 hours is different than a 15-minute walk in cold weather. While there are hot beverages available, that will not suffice! Depending on the day and the town, it could be quite cold. Then add the potential for wind and/or rain and it becomes even more a challenge to enjoying the markets!

Tip 1b: Wear shoes that can handle rain or snow

At a couple of places we had rain or a drizzle. It could be miserable – if you are not prepared or if you let it affect your spirits! While I cannot help much with the latter, for the former I recommend waterproof and “slip-proof” shoes.

Tip 1c: Avoid the hassle of an umbrella

Also, I would recommend a rain jacket/coat/poncho with a hood than using an umbrella for a couple of reasons. One, it leaves your hands free to check out the goods in the markets, or to hold your cup or drink while still allowing a free hand. Two, some of the streets or aisles are narrow and at times crowded. An umbrella creates for navigation issues as you walk around!

Place #2 – Cologne, Germany

It will not be a surprise that Cologne (Köln) has several Christmas markets as it is one of the largest towns on the list here. They are spread out enough so that you get to explore the streets of the town and happen by important places like the historic and imposing cathedral (as with many of the places mentioned here, more on them in future posts!), other churches, museums, town hall, etc. These interesting places can become a distraction from the Christmas markets – and rightly so! My advice: plan for more time in Cologne if you can so you can see more than the Christmas markets!

Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral - Germany — Main Christmas market in Cologne by the cathedral

Tip #2 – Don’t judge markets by the first one

As in everything (or most everything) in life, don’t assume all Christmas markets will be like the first one you visit. Though many things will feel the same, markets can vary in terms of the types of goods offered. Also, a town may have just one or two markets whereas another may have several. And perhaps hours of operation differ (in Basel, for example, the market by the cathedral opened at 11 AM on the weekday I visited).

Place #3 – Rüdesheim, Germany

This small town certainly packed a punch when it came to the Christmas market scene! The stands were everywhere in the heart of the town and by the river. And the pedestrian streets were jammed pack with people! It felt like a fun place to be.

Christmas market and streets of Rudesheim, Germany by the Rhine River

Tip #3 – Partake in the glühwein and food

The Christmas markets are well-known for offering visitors hot beverages to help with staying warm. While hot chocolate and hot juices are available, the typical drink is spiced, watered-down wine called glühwein normally available with white or red wine. It certainly is a unique beverage and, being diluted, it is not as strong as a real glass of wine. Normally not a fan of spices like cinnamon and others but I can tolerate this spiced wine as it feels good to hold the hot cup in my cold hands!

Gluhwein stand in Colmar, France — In France, ask for “vin chaud”!

Also worth noting is all the good food around the kiosks (besides the regular cafes or restaurants available)! Many local specialties like baked goods, flammkuchen, sausages, pretzels, etc. Don’t miss out!

Sausage stand at Christmas market in Cologne, Germany by the cathedral — You can ALMOST smell the sausages!

Oh, and how could I forget! When you order the glühwein, keep in mind that if you return the mug, you get a refund. Or, if you want the mug as a souvenir, you don’t have to return it. What they charged you up front, assumes you will not return it. You can walk around the market or out of it while you sip your drink! In some towns like Strasbourg, we noticed that many stands only offer a cheap plastic cup whereas other stands have the real mugs. Also, in Rüdesheim we got some mugs from 2016. You may or may not care, just want you to be aware!

Gluhwein stand at a Christmas market in Heidelberg, Germany — Plenty of mugs in this Heidelberg stand!

Place #4 – Heidelberg, Germany

Again, we have a place technically not on the Rhine River but typically part of the itinerary of many cruises courtesy of a bus ride! Of course, the most important thing to do in Heidelberg is to visit its imposing castle above town. Not only is it an impressive set of structures and ruins, it also offers great views of the town and the Neckar River that goes through it.

I have to say the Christmas markets I got to visit there were the least impressive of the ones I visited (Aachen’s was smaller but felt nicer). Thankfully, Heidelberg has a lot of things going for it.

Tip #4 – Check them out at day and at night

Daytime is short this time of year in these latitudes so this will not be hard to do. The Christmas markets felt different at night than in the daytime. It may be that they seemed to become more festive but that could be related to increased alcohol consumption perhaps? In any case, I’d suggest checking them out at these different times. This could also give you the opportunity perhaps to sit down somewhere for a proper meal intown or enjoy the local kiosk food.

Christmas market in Rudesheim, Germany along the Rhine River — Rüdesheim fun-filled streets at night

Place #5 – Strasbourg, France

This important seat of the European Union’s Parliament is quite a city. Its cathedral is fairly magnificent and its streets are lined with beautiful shops. Of course, this is one of the best places for Alsatian cuisine so I recommend not only walking to all the Christmas markets and side streets but also investing in a good lunch or dinner! Read more about how I experienced Strasbourg at Christmas here.

Chrismas market by the Strasbourg Cathedral in the Alsace region of France — Stands in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral

Tip #5 – Don’t buy everything in the first market

As you may expect, some of the goods (souvenirs or regular Christmas decorations) available in the markets are similar. But, since the towns along the river don’t share fully the same culture or history, there will be some variation in the items available. Even markets in one town may have different focus so the goods can vary there too. So don’t spend all your money in the first market or town!

Goods at a Christmas market in Germany — Not just Christmas goods but local and practical crafts!

Place #6 – Colmar, France

As Aachen and Heidelberg, Colmar is not along the Rhine River. The main “port” on the river near it would be Breisach, Germany. This French town close to the border with Germany is a real gem, Christmas markets or not! It is breathtaking to meander its streets and see all the beautiful buildings all around (this town is definitely worth a separate blog post!). In Christmas, as in other towns, many establishments decorate part of their facade which adds to charm of Colmar.

Street in Strasbourg, France decorated for Christmas (Noël) — One of the best decorations (this store in Strasbourg)

Navigating the streets is easiest with a map as the streets twist and turn but maps also make it seem that it takes longer to reach a given location. I can’t recall actually how many markets we visited but we enjoyed at least half of the six that were pointed out to us in the map. The tourist info office offers maps especially marked with the Christmas markets.

Tip #6 – Buy it if you like it

While tip #5 is true (don’t rush to buy everything in the first town), the flipside is also important. If you find something that catches your fancy, buy it then and there. You are not guaranteed you will find it in a later town!

Place #7 – Basel, Switzerland

If I understood correctly, there should be three Christmas markets in Basel, Switzerland. I visited two and did not run into the third. The ones I visited were in the city center. One was right by the cathedral on the hill and the other was below near the Basel Historical Museum (on Barfüsser Platz). I found the latter to have a good variety of items. I bought not only a glass of glühwein there but also marzipan goodies (delicious!).

Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid - Christmas Market in Basel Switzerland — Traditional German Nativity Carousel/Pyramid

Tip #7 – Take time to soak it all in

Looking at all the goods, eating and sipping a hot glühwein is all well and good. However, standing for a few minutes (or more) is rewarding too. Though there certainly will be tourists, locals enjoy these markets too! For example, we stood by a small counter in Aachen sipping our drink and watching the atmosphere around us. We also found a spot to sit outdoors and chat with friends in a hole-in-the-wall in Rüdesheim. We got to watch tourists and locals enjoy this special time of the year when many people may think it best to sit in the warmth of the indoors at home!

Also, walking through the streets of these towns and looking at regular stores is a must. As mentioned earlier, many places decorate and the spirit is festive in the city centers!

Christmas market in Cologne, Germany — Christmas market in Cologne

In the end, however you want to “do” the markets, do them! It is certainly different than how I have experienced Christmas before and maybe it will be so for you too!

Save this pin to your travel planning board!