Great Drive Series – Frankfurt to Maastricht

Among the many ways to travel and explore, few things beat driving around yourself, whether it be Tuscany, New Zealand or across the U.S., there is a freedom that comes with being on your own, able to stop at will for a photo, to rest or… to relief yourself (yes, I said it …).

I have done some great drives and I thought I’d start a short series on these drives and, hopefully, hear back from you on your own favorite drives along the way.

Today, I share my drive to/from Maastricht, The Netherlands and Frankfurt, Germany over a dozen years ago.  I was in Frankfurt for business for a few weeks and decided to visit a college friend who was an ex-pat in Maastricht.  I rented my car in Frankfurt and made my way, in about 3 hrs, to Maastricht on the famous autobahn.  The autobahn between some cities in Germany fails to meet the wild expectations we have in the U.S. about fast speeds as there is too much vehicular traffic on some of the routes.  But some parts of the route I took where free and clear just for me.  That and along the Mercedes-Benz upgrade they gave me were the perfect pairing for a FUN drive.  On the outbound leg of the trip, I drove northwest towards Bonn and Cologne (Köln) on the A3 and then west on the A4 past Aachen straight into Maastricht.  I wish I had had time to explore Aachen, having been a residence of Charlemagne and where many Holy Roman Emperors were crowned back in the day.  For that matter also Cologne and Bonn.  So much too see and so little time…

Maastricht, Frankfurt, drive, map, A3, A4, autobahn, Germany, travel

The outbound route I took

On the way back I took a different route based on my friend’s suggestion as the landscape would be much more rewarding.  It was indeed!  I don’t recall the details of the route (which cut at some point across the incredible Mosel River) but maybe someone will recognize some of the locales from the photos and let me know more precisely where I went through!

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I highly recommend taking the “road less traveled”.  In this case, not the A3!   Western Germany, near the border with Luxembourg and France, is simply a beautiful place to visit, explore and drive.  Get lost, take your time, and sample this area!

 

Love Shopping? I Have a Grand Bazaar for You

This is one of the neatest places to go in Istanbul if you like to shop and haggle, and even if not, it is still quite impressive by its sheer scale in size and offerings.  You can almost picture business going on here for centuries!  The bazaar is huge – it is a veritable maze of over 60 covered streets and 3,000 shops.  How is that versus hanging out at a mall in the U.S.?  Yes, not the same thing.

The Grand Bazaar came to be into its current form over a couple of centuries – it evolved and was added to over time and now it is close to 550 years old.  Fortunately for us visitors, it sits in a perfect spot with key sites all around it – almost a ground zero for the visitor checking out the places to see in Istanbul:  Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia and some of the mosques including the Blue Mosque.

Grand Bazaar, shopping, Istanbul, Estambu, Turkey, Turkiye, Turquia, photo, travel, Canon EOS Rebel

Arcade in the Grand Bazaar

I, not a fan of shopping, actually enjoyed walking around and seeing all the goods on offer, getting lost in the maze along the way.  I even ran into some sort of informal “pit” of trading in something:  guys on cell phones, maybe 8-10 of them, exchanging money around.  Pretty cool!

Finally, some advice:  haggle is the name of the game; it is expected in fact – so don’t be shy.  Pay no more than half of what they originally asked but go for less if you can!

Please note that it is closed on Sundays.

Out, Up, and Down in Chile’s Valparaíso

Chile is truly an amazing country.  Nature, in and of itself, offers a myriad different possibilities from the Atacama Desert and the salt lakes in the north to the fjords and glaciers down in Patagonia.  But Chile’s urban areas offer some incredible sights and experiences.  And Valparaíso may take the cake as its character is quite unique.  No wonder it is a UNESCO World Heritage site!

Valparaíso sits by the sea but it does not have the almost unmanageable scale of Rio.  It is old (founded in 1536) but does not have the colonial feel of cities like Old San Juan or central Lima.  And though it is large (the greater Valparaiso metro area is Chile’s second largest) and a center of portuary activity, it is not an economic center like Santiago is.  It faces the ocean but it is not where tourists go for their summer beach vacation – that would be neighboring Viña del Mar.  However, what makes Valpo, as it is referred to in Chile, so great is the charm it has which is a combination of its setting and that it has not been spoilt by becoming a megalopolis.

Out to sea

Valparaíso is surrounded by hills and exploring the city is not just exploring sea-level Valpo but exploring its hills.  But before going up those hills, the best thing to do is to admire Valpo’s lay of the land by taking a boat tour in the harbor.

Valparaiso, Valpo, boat, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

The boat taking us to cruise the harbor

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Sea lion enjoying the summer day

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Looking back at the town and hills of Valpo (notice a funicular in the center of the photo)

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National Congress (on the left) sits in Valparaiso, not Santiago, the actual capital of Chile

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View across the harbor back towards the center of the city

Up the hills

Valpo is quite famous for the funiculars (or ascensores) that help move people up and down its famous hills.  The oldest funicular was built in 1883 and it is still in service.  Many of these funiculars are an experience onto themselves with very unique stories and some are considered national monuments.

Valparaiso, Valpo, funicular,rail, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

One of Valparaiso’s famous funiculars (Ascensor Cordillera) – we didn’t take this one

When we went, we were advised by some locals to keep an eye out as we went up to the hills as not all areas above are equally safe for people who look like tourists.  We took the advice and went up making sure we were aware of our surroundings.

Valparaiso, stairs, funicular, Valpo, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

For the sake of the experience, we climbed the stairs…

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… and this cat had a similar, if different, approach to going up.

Valparaiso, Valpo, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

A house perched on one of the hills looks mighty precarious to me… one lil tremor and…

We were rewarded not only with views of the city and sea below, but also by some neat architecture in the hill we visited.

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View from one of Valpo’s hills towards some of the other hills (spot the funicular on this pic!)

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View from one of Valpo’s hills towards the harbor

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House up in one of the hills

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Another great sample of the neat architecture around

And then back at sea level

All this being said and done, I just enjoyed walking aimlessly through the city.  Here are some of the images from our exploring “sea-level” Valpo.

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Charming “booth” for a pay phone

Valparaiso, Valpo, power cables, street scene, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

A mess of utility cables… who knows how many legally set up!

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A side street (Cochrane) that was not as interesting (they deserve to show up on a website too!)

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Street scene

Valparaiso, Valpo, street scene, Chile, travel, tourism, charm, Canon EOS Rebel, photo

Street scene at Plaza Echaurren

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Navy Building in Plaza Sotomayor

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Monument to the Heroes of Iquique (war memorial) in Plaza Sotomayor

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Dog laying in the middle of the street (right below where the bus shows)

My favorite souvenir from my year in Chile is a wood carving depicting one of the stairs and funiculars of this charming city.  A great reminder in my every day of this unique town!

Jewels of Istanbul: Its Mosques

During my 5-day visit to Istanbul, I had ample time to walk around, often aimlessly, to get to know the city.  While some sights were on the must-see list (like the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace), I also “discovered” places not on my list.  I quickly developed an interest in entering the many mosques I encountered (and there are plenty!).  For a non-Muslim like me, they are worth exploring for their architecture / construction for sure but also for their interiors.  The interior of mosques in Istanbul were different than the ones I had seen in Egypt (which were the only mosques I had ever entered at that point).  What made the interiors different was their use of ceramic tile typical of Turkey (more on this further down…).

Istanbul, Turkey, Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed, minaret, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, history, architecture

The skyline of “old” Istanbul is accentuated by many mosques

While I don’t remember all the names and locations of the mosques I visited (though I was writing about travel at the time, it was only in emails to friends and family), I will at least share some of what I saw so you get an idea of what I mean.  But there is one that is a must-see for sure:  the “Blue” Mosque.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, aka the Blue Mosque

Almost across from the Hagia Sophia resides the most imposing mosque I saw in Istanbul:  the Sultan Ahmed Mosque.

Istanbul, Turkey, Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed, minaret, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, history, architecture

Looking up to the domes with an ablution fountain in the courtyard

The Blue Mosque was built in the early 17th century so it is a “baby”, really, by Istanbul standards but, nevertheless, monumental inside and out.  It boasts 6 minarets, one main dome, and many secondary domes.  It has a courtyard as large as the mosque itself surrounded by arcades (apologies to architects if I am not using the proper term) with the fountains for the ablutions located in that space.

Istanbul, Turkey, Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed, minaret, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, history, architecture

The arcade around the courtyard

As is the case with mosques, its interior is a vast open space (unlike Christian places of worship with benches and chairs throughout) since the prayers are done by sitting and prostrating on the floor which, of course, is covered in rugs/carpets.

Istanbul, Turkey, Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed, interior, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, history, architecture

Not the best photo of the interior but you can see the faithful praying (I wanted to not be close to them while taking the pic) and some details of the interior (chandelier, carpets, etc.)

Can you believe that at the time Roman Catholic Pope Benedict XVI visited the mosque in 2006, it was only the second time a Pope had visited a Muslim place of worship?  Not only shocked for ecumenical reasons but also thinking the beauty they missed seeing!

Ceramic tile

As I mentioned, what appeals to me about mosques in Istanbul is the use of ceramic tiles in many different styles and geometrical patterns and using a lot of blue (could it be the influence of the close-by Aegean Sea blue??).  The writing in Arabic script that you see is actually verses from the Koran.  I don’t read Arabic so all I can do is say that they add to the beauty of the place.

mosque, Istanbul, ceramic tule, interior, Turkey, art, architecture, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, blue

Side walls of a mosque in the city; notice how blue plays a prominent role in the tiles’ color

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Dome of the same mosque

Parting tips…

If you have never been to a mosque, it is good to know that you need to be properly dressed (no shorts, etc.) and that you will have to remove your shoes before you enter – please do not miss observing these rules!!  Some mosques I have been to require you leave the shoes outside (not placing them inside your bag).  A fellow traveler decided not to leave his shoes in the area that some attendant watches it because he didn’t want to pay (at the mosque close to the Golden Horn and the Grand Bazzar).  When we came out, his shoes were gone.  BIG LESSON LEARNED:  don’t skimp.  Attendants are just earning a living though, certainly, this one was a thief.

Istanbul, Turkey, New Mosque, Grand Bazaar, history, architecture, Canon EOS Rebel

Mosque by the Grand Bazaar where the “shoe incident” happened: the New Mosque

Istanbul, Turkey, New Mosque, Golden Horn, Grand Bazaar, history, architecture, Canon EOS Rebel

Looking down onto the New Mosque, built in the 17th century right by the Golden Horn (Asian side of Istanbul in the background)

So discover Istanbul and its mosques if you visit!  I leave you with a parting shot of one of these beauties:  the Blue Mosque at sunset sporting a different color!

Istanbul, Turkey, Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmed, minaret, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, history, architecture

At sunset

 

Manila Relaxation

I love to travel and explore new places.  I enjoy it a lot.  But I also like to relax and do not much of anything worth writing about.  Yes, I have been known to cram a lot into a trip when I set my mind to it (like my Croatia/Bosnia & Herzegovina/Montenegro chaser to my week in Rome a year ago).  But the diversity of experiences is what draws me to travel and that does not just mean different geographies and cultures – that also means pace.  While I am not much of a beach bum (a couple of hours and I am itching to do SOMETHING), I appreciate what people find in just laying about and letting the world go on.

In my short visit to Manila I was intending to see all I could about the city in 3 days.  However, there was something liberating in knowing that I could not experience all that the city is in three days so that gave me the opportunity to take the pressure off myself to do all I could (and especially after day one when I realized this is a place I would want to come back to).  But what really sealed the deal was my hotel.  It says something when a hotel makes you want to stay in and, I imagine, many hotels aim for that.  The Marriott Manila had that effect on me.  Amazingly, I was not jet lagged and needing to rest.  (Jet lag actually did not affect me with sleepiness or confused time zones, something confusing in and of itself.)  I. Just. Wanted. To. Be. There.

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, chocolate, sculpture, carving, art, interesting, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

They love chocolate carvings/sculptures at the hotel – here one of the current President

The spaces

The room was spacious and comfortable (without being a suite).  All the offerings/amenities of the room worked without a hitch (yes, EVEN the wi-fi).  There was actually great lighting in the room (read #4 in my top 5 hotel pet peeves).  The shower/tub combination was quite unique as was the division between it and the main room – clever.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, luxury, interior design, photo, Olympus, travel, innovation. comfort

Look at the white half-wall in the background…

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, luxury, interior design, photo, Olympus, travel, innovation, comfort

… and all of a sudden it opens up to “connect” the room to the shower!

The Executive Lounge, unlike most U.S. Marriotts, was huge.  At non-peak times, it is easy to find a spot and feel like you are on your own, which is nice if you have work to do.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, luxury, interior design, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, travel, lounge, comfort

The lounge

The lounge faces the golf course which gives it a great view…

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, room, hotel, lodging, view, interior design, photo, Olympus, travel, lounge, comfort

View of the city from the lounge (unfortunately, on a rainy day)

The lobby is a series of spaces designed to flow well and pull you in.  The main seating area seamlessly integrates into the bar.  You just want to hang there.  And do people watching…

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Lobby space

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Lobby space

… or have a drink.

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The bar area faces the edge of the golf course. I like the light fixtures

Finally, facing the golf course, there are nice outdoor areas for those times when you get cold indoors (the A/C really is PUMPING!) or want to jump in the pool.

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, outdoor area, relaxation, comfort, hotel, lodging, travel, Olympus

Outdoor seating area right by the bar

Manila, Philippines, Marriott, outdoor area, relaxation, comfort, hotel, lodging, travel, Olympus, pool

Though a rainy day, a nice pool area

The food

On my first full night in Manila, after having done a walking city tour in the rain, I decided to eat in at the hotel.  Since I had a slight sore throat, I asked for some chicken noodle soup.  Boy, was that a chicken noodle soup!  It was beautifully served and was delicious: with noodles, greens, diced up chicken, and carrots.  I don’t think I have used the phrase “beautifully served” before but the solid ingredients were nicely set up in the main oblong bowl with the broth actually brought in a separate teapot-like container.  I especially appreciated it because I wanted to shower before eating and the way they served it allowed me to not have to eat it as soon as it was brought to my room.

The next day, I had the choice of taking breakfast in the Executive Lounge, a hangout spot for a regular like me (the one in Santiago’s Marriott, I called my living room when I stayed there most of 2010!), or go to the Marriott Café.  I opted for the latter to see what food they would offer in the buffet.  It did not disappoint as it clearly had many local specialties some of which I tried and some that I did not want at breakfast (e.g., anchovies).

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, delicious, food, cuisine, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

Kakiage (like tempura, in the back) and chicken tonkatsu (on the front) – delicious

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, delicious, food, cuisine, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

On the fishier side of breakfast…

Manila, Marriott, Philippines, delicious, food, cuisine, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, travel

Some good-looking sushi

Location

The Marriott Manila sits very close to the Manila airport in an area called Resorts World.  I am not 100% clear on the plans for the area but there are other hotels, shopping center, etc. and a lot of development going on in the area; it looks like a small town is actually sprouting.  While one half of the hotel looks over the domestic part of the airport, the other half overlooks a very nice and lush golf course with the Manila skyline in the distance.  I am not sure how it is during regular weekday hours but my ride to the business center of Makati was pretty easy and fast on mid-day Saturday.

I have to admit that before I came, I assumed that given its location (near the airport and not far from the Makati business district), the Marriott would mainly appeal to business travelers.  Once I stepped in it, I saw how off my assumption was.  Lots of leisure travelers AND many locals coming for events at the hotel.

Service – leaving the best for last (but proverbial “not least”!)

I mentioned earlier my slight sore throat.  I stopped at the front desk and asked when I came in from sightseeing to find out where I could get some lozenges or something to alleviate my discomfort.  The informed me that connected to the hotel, right after the entrance to the mall was a medical clinic.  I thought to myself how convenient that was.  Not only convenient but freeWith a doctorOn a Saturday evening.  Yes, indeed.  Imagine that ANYWHERE in the U.S.!  They really are prepared to take care of guests!  The doctor just recommended something to gargle which the hotel concierge went to get for me.  It really says something about a hotel when they can handle not only the “normal” stay but when something like this arises.

Which leads me to my top takeaway from this stay… The amazing staff at the hotel.  They are well prepared to make you comfortable and assist you.  They smile and it actually feels genuine.  No wonder I just wanted to stay in, right?!

I have stayed at many Marriotts in my work life and logged many “career stay nights”.  As I have mentioned elsewhere, one of the things Marriotts do best is give the business traveler a consistent experience so that you feel you are somewhere familiar.  But the Manila Marriott simply blew me away.  Few hotels have made me feel so welcome, comfortable, and cared for.  You can bet that if – no, when – I return to Manila, I will be making a stop here!

Thanks to the Manila Marriott for hosting part of my stay.  Opinions are my own as always.

Exploring Mount Nebo, Jordan

Mount Nebo, Jordan is located on an area north of the Dead Sea that sits high on a ridge. According to the Bible, Mount Nebo is the place where Moses was allowed to see the Promised Land he would never enter (after guiding his people out of Egypt for 40 years!).  Exploring Mount Nebo is a neat activity that does not require more than a couple of hours but is very rewarding.

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Moses, I suppose

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Today, without Moses around, this sign does the job of pointing to the Promised Land

Mt. Nebo overlooks the valley of the River Jordan and one can glimpse Jericho and Jerusalem to the west on a good day.  The site was visited by Popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI at some point giving the site an added level of credibility, if you will, as a site of religious importance.

Moses, Mt. Nebo, Jordan, archeology, history, religion, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Welcome to Mt. Nebo!

It is also claimed that good ole Moses is buried there.  However, as with many similar claims, there is no conclusive evidence (as conclusive as one may expect a few thousand years later…).  Whether any of this interests you or not, the views of the valley below are certainly worth visiting this important archeological site.

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Moses, Promised Land, Mt. Nebo, Jordan, tourism, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, view, vista

Some of the view

Visiting Mount Nebo

There was a small temporary-looking exhibit at the site showing some of the beautiful mosaics of the remains of a church found in the first half of the 20th century on Mt. Nebo.  It really makes you ponder the history of the place and the area and all the events it has witnessed over time.  It is mind-boggling.

Mount Nebo, Jordan, mosaic, Moses, history, religion, archeology, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Part of the mosaics

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Color manages to survive close to two millenia

Mount Nebo, Jordan, mosaic, Moses, history, religion, archeology, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Up close and personal

The place is crowded with tourists of all ages and that distracts a little, for sure, from the importance of the place.  Perhaps some construction during the time of my visit contributed to the small sense of chaos, though there were moments when I was glad there was chaos and a crowd…

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Young Mt. Nebo visitors

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Another school kid visiting the site

I was patient, though, and I was rewarded when the key spot where Moses stood cleared up for a good 5 minutes and I was able to soak it all in better during that pause in the visitors.

Let ME show you the Promised Land

So, in case you have not been there, allow me show you the Promised Land!  Can you imagine how that looked back in the time of Moses?  I imagine from that altitude and distance, not much has likely changed…

Mount Nebo, Holy land, Promised Land, Jordan, Moses, photo, ilivetotravel, view, vista

“Over yonder!” says this modern-day Moses-wanna-be

 

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

Photo of the Week – Kayaking in Maine

Many years ago, I visited friends who lived in Maine.  She was a high school classmate of mine and we decided one day that she took off work to do something adventurous because -alas- we had delusions of grandeur.  We decided to rent kayaks and do some exploring.  However, the kayak rental place was too busy to take us out so all they could do was rent us kayaks and point us to a place where we could hit a waterway that led to the open sea.  The plan was not to hit the open sea but we would be in saltwater, not a lake or river.

It was a really neat experience though we swapped kayaks halfway through as one of them was quite crappy so we took turns on it.  We had a great time laughing at our clumsiness and learning how to turn and move the kayak.  Columbus had NOTHING on us!

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Yours truly showing how it is done

The fun really started once we packed up to go.  We hoped to tie the kayaks to the truck like the rental place had done; we had had the forethought to pay attention before we first untied the kayaks so we would know how to tie them back up.  Except neither of us really remembered nor knew how to tie a knot… I did multiple knots praying that the more knots, the more secure things would be… My friend was too nervous to drive so I got behind the wheel and drove slowly the short distance we had to go.  All of a sudden we heard a noise and realized the kayaks had shifted.  I came to a quick stop and so did the cars behind me, one of which honked (as if we were in NYC!).  We took a quick look and everything looked like it couldn’t go anywhere though the kayaks had shifted along the roof of the truck.

It was a nerve-wracking drive but, mercifully, without further noise or shifting – the knots did their job!   A Maine adventure for sure!

 

A Survivor Story: Manila’s Story

As I headed to Manila for my very short visit, it dawned on me I actually knew little of the city’s history outside of Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos and the story ever since them (and even that, superficially only).  I had a notion of World War II impacting it through names like Corregidor and Bataan, names that meant very bad things had happened thanks to the vicious Japanese invader.  But that’s where my awareness ended.

In my visit, I did no have time to explore all of Manila.  It would seem nearly impossible.  Suffice it to say it has a wide range of neighborhoods, from those that remind you that you are in the developing world to those that show business dynamism and economic vitality (such as the important business district of Makati).

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At the Greenbelt Mall in the Makati district

The old city

The highlight of my short visit to Manila was to explore the old part of town, the “original” Manila:  Intramuros.  Intramuros’ name means “within the walls” as city walls were built around the old town by the Spanish to protect it from attackers coming either from water (Manila Bay or the Pasig River) or from land.  The Philippines had become a Spanish colony in the 1500s after the arrival of Magellan, of Magellan Straits fame, and became the western terminus of Spain‘s trans-Pacific shipping lanes to and from Mexico (which actually governed the Philippines on behalf of the Spanish crown until it became independent from Spain; what a complex web!).

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Looking down on the city walls of Intramuros from The Bayleaf Hotel

In any case, the walls did not always deter invaders successfully:  the British actually occupied Manila for 3 years in the 18th century.  Manila did survive the British but that’s not quite the survival story of Manila I want to share…

Liberated from the empire

The Philippines was not as prized a possession for Spain as were, for example, Perú and Mexico.  The Filipinos wanted to be done with Spain and their opportunity came thanks to the Spanish-American War of 1898 (which taught the world the lesson that if you are an ailing former superpower, you shouldn’t go picking up fights with the newbie superpower…).  Out of that war, via the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded or sold various territories to the U.S. such as the Philippines, Cuba, Puerto Rico, etc.  Treaties like this one always make me think that losers in wars get to go to cool places to sign documents.  It almost tempts a dictator to start a little war to get a free trip to Paris… But I digress.

World War II (WWII) ruins a city

The Philippines stayed under U.S. control for about 50 years until after WWII.  But independence came only after some very extreme suffering.  The Japanese invaded the Philippines and took over Manila which at the time was U.S. territory.  Think about that:  they bomb Pearl Harbor (Hawaii was not a state yet) and then they go after the Philippines just days later.  The Japanese knew what they were doing; I wonder who was asleep at the wheel on this on the U.S. military’s side, especially down in Manila…

So the battle for the Philippines was vicious.  Over 100,000 civilians died when it was all said and done.  The Japanese inflicted tons of damage but so did the liberators of Manila via American and Filipino forces.  The bombing campaign to finally evict the Japanese out of Manila required throwing them out of the old city.  Intramuros was bombed significantly.  Most of it was completely destroyed.  It is quite telling (and news to me) that the second most destroyed city in WWII after Warsaw was Manila.  The Battle of Manila is considered the bloodiest battle in the Pacific in WWII which is also shocking since we always hear other names talked about a lot in the battles of the Pacific.

Intramuros today

Most of what you will see in Intramuros today is a reconstruction.  Well done, but a reconstruction.  Save St. Agustin Church (which the Japanese used as a concentration camp during their occupation).  Though it suffered some damage, the church survived the attacks fairly well.

San Agustin, church, Manila, Intramuros, Baroque, UNESCO World Heritage, Philippines, Canon EOS Rebel, photo, architecture

The main altar at San Agustin Church

The current church was built in 1607 though other churches had existed on the site before.  St. Agustin now, along with 3 other churches in the country, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name Baroque Churches of the Philippines The city walls you see today are mostly a reconstruction.  A reconstruction that has been well done as it does not look like they are as young as they are.

Intramuros is managed by the Intramuros Administration (IA) set up by the government to manage this national treasure of the Philippines.  It oversees repairs and renovations while also exercising controls to ensure the district retains its historical and architectural integrity.  I got to meet its marketing lead and its brand new Administrator which gives me great hope for continued progress in the restoration of this gem in Manila.

A survival story

Seeing Manila through the eyes of its history lends it great dignity.  Everything may not be perfectly ticked-and-tied in Manila, but the bigger point is seeing a survivor that has stepped out of sheer destruction and is just moving forward.  The long-in-distance and short-in-duration trip certainly delivered a great understanding I didn’t even realize I was going to get.  And that’s why I live to travel.

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More on Intramuros and Manila!

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Add Manila to your Pin travel board!!

Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, Filipinas, history, Spanish, colonial, Fort Santiago

Four Decades of the Panama Canal

I have been to Panama a few times in my life as I have relatives who live there.  During those visits I have enjoyed Panama City itself, traveled to see El Valle, been to the beaches near Coronado, visited isolated populations on ecotourism visits, spent time on the beautiful island of Contadora (in the Pearl Archipelago) and visited the famous -and vital- Panama Canal.  As I scanned old pictures in a “digitization” effort, I realized I have visited the Panama Canal once every decade since the 1970s. Looking at my pictures from every decade made me think how differently I have “seen” the Canal over the decades that I have been visiting it – with the same eyes but with different “eyes”…

Paitilla in Panama City, Panama from the Casco Viejo (Old Town)

Looking towards part of Paitilla district from the Casco Viejo of Panama City

The Panama Canal – An Engineering Feat

Long the dream of many, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans would require incredible engineering, and human effort and sacrifice – whether it had been built tapping the inland lakes of Nicaragua, creating a sea-to-rail-to-sea solution anywhere in Central America, or leveraging the narrowness of the Isthmus of Panama.  Eventually it was the Americans who got the Canal done.

Constructing the Canal was no small feat:  besides incredible engineering it also required the “skill” to not kill off your workers (many imported into the area) with the heat, yellow fever, and pure good ole hard work (no passing grade on keeping workers alive… over 5,000 died).  Construction required cutting to create the channel, creating a massive inland lake (Lake Gatún) to hold ships as they made the passage, and then setting up infrastructure for the people who would run and work the Canal (and live in the Canal Zone).

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

My first visit – through a kid’s eyes

During my first visit in the 1970s, as a kid, I was fascinated by the big ships that passed right by us at the viewing stand set up for visitors to observe the process of a ship going through the locks (in this case, the Miraflores Locks near Panama City).  This process involved raising or lowering a ship by using water (more on this later).  I remember the awe of being so close to a massive ship!  I remember my young cousin giving me the history of the Canal as he clearly had just learned it in school.  By looking at my pictures, I can tell I was more interested in little details than the whole.  For example, not one picture capturing the entire Miraflores Locks building.  It only shows as a backdrop to the locks. Another picture just focuses on the wheel of a “mule” (the tows that pull the ships along the locks) instead of capturing what a mule looks like, as the photo below shows.  (Clearly, my photography skills and camera equipment have evolved since 1978!)

Panama Canal, Panama, Canal Zone, engineering, mule, mule wheel, feat, marvel, locks, water, Panamax

The details that seem to have fascinated me

Back in the 80s – through an engineer’s eyes

Returning to the Canal in the 1980s when I was studying engineering, I was more curious about how the lock system actually worked.  Pretty neat to understand that water is at the core of the operation, and not just because this is about ships.  Water is part of the mechanics, if you will.  They could have cut deep into the mountains, removing them to create a sea level -ish passageway through Panama’s interior (a LOT of work).  Instead, the brilliant engineers came up with a solution that saved all that work by creating a high lake in the interior to allow navigation.  The challenge:  how to get the ships UP to the lake level and then back DOWN.  Enter, stage left, the locks.  The locks allow for the ships to be elevated to the lake and brought back down to the other ocean’s level as the following photos illustrate.

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

A ship approaches the Miraflores locks. Notice its height and the two mules pulling it along.

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

Where the ship is headed:  to the Pacific. Notice the two water levels on either side of the locks.

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

The ship exits the locks after both sides of the locks were at the same level. Notice now the height of the ship!

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

With the ship gone, the locks begin to close and the right side will fill up again so the next ship can enter that “chamber”

By the way, the Pacific coast of Panama and the Atlantic coast are not at the same level (something I have never fully grasped) so locks would have been involved even if the lake had not been used as a solution…  Water from the inland lake is used in this process.

My third visit in the 1990s – through the eyes of history

When I returned over 10 years later, the center of my attention was the historic event about to happen:  completing the transfer of the Canal Zone from the U.S. (in whose hands it had been since the days the Canal was being built) to sovereign Panamanian territory and administration.  As I entered the Canal Zone, I recalled its look and feel from my prior visits when perfectly manicured gardens and tidy streets were all around giving this tropical place an American feel.  I remember seeing the houses where Canal employees lived and it seemed a little bit of a paradise, even if more hot and humid than Paradise (with a capital P!) would likely be…

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

An old mule on display

Parts of the Canal Zone had begun to switch already to Panamanian hands ahead of the 1999 final turnover by the time I came that decade.  It was interesting to see how you could tell what parts were still in U.S. hands and which were not.  I also remember the concerns at the time of whether the Canal would be managed well by the Panamanians and whether that was a smart decision on both sides back when the treaty was signed in the late 1970s.  Only time would tell…

My most recent visit – eyes under the stars

Time passed and I returned in 2007 but the visit was a little different than my prior ones.  Though I did visit family my main reason to go to Panama was work.  I was attending a meeting for 3 days in one of the buildings of the Canal Zone that had become part of a business park – one of the many remnants of the time when the U.S. administered the Canal.

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

Former Canal Zone administration building in the business park where my workshop took place

By then, the Canal had been completely under Panamanian control for 8 years and -guess what – it seemed all those concerns about Panama managing the Canal were way off.  The Canal Zone felt vibrant, with areas converted to commercial use or tourist destinations, with the Canal’s locks bustling with activity, and with plans for the Canal’s expansion already underway to support super tankers that went beyond Panamax (the maximum size for a ship that can go through he Canal).

I was not really planning to visit the Canal itself at Miraflores to witness the crossing of a ship as I had seen that already. However, the workshop I was attending had a surprise in store:  it organized an evening out at a restaurant located on a building right at Miraflores where from its terrace up high, you could see the ships making their way in and out of the Canal.  Not only was seeing this from up high pretty neat, we got to see this at night which was also a first for me.  So despite the slight rain and it being my fourth time seeing the Canal, the experience was new and I enjoyed the great vantage point.

The 2010s visit – what eyes will I bring?

I have not seen where the expansion project is these days but I assume that the next time I go (I am due for the trip of this decade), I will get to see the expanded Canal (at Miraflores, this means a new third “lane” for the wider ships) and I hope it will be from up high again with a cocktail in hand to cheer the amazing place that has been and will continue to be this engineering wonder.  ¡Salud!

Panama Canal, mule, ship, Panamax, Canal Zone, Panama, photo, Canon EOS Rebel, shipping

The hundred year old Miraflores building

My Top 5 Inflight Pet Peeves

As I flew back from a recent trip, having experienced a few random annoyances, my mind immediately sought to mentally catalog all my pet peeves about flying (I did have nine hours to kill…).  A few months ago I shared my hotel pet peeves.  I greatly enjoyed hearing from you on your own hotel pet peeves, so I thought I’d share what came to mind during that flight – and I hope I hear back from you on yours as I am sure five pet peeves cannot be all there is!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA, flight, plane, flying, blue sea, flyover, view, view from plane, Tampa Bay

Flying over Tampa Bay, Florida

Nota bene:  I will even skip the obvious one:  what passes for food (or snacks)…  Too easy.

Let’s work our way to the number one pet peeve…

5.  Poorly engineered entertainment systems

Ahhh… I sit down and get comfy.  I turn on the entertainment system.  How cool, I get to watch some movie I have not watched that I have been wanting to see.  And then takeoff rolls around.  Blip.  Entertainment system turns off and when it finally re-starts, we start from scratch.

I have never really thought there was ANOTHER WAY.  Until a recent flight where that did not happen.  I was blown away!  I was able to pick up the movie where I had left off.  What a frigging concept!  And then the system did not shutdown 20 minutes before landing – all that time to kill until I could get up to exit the plane.  I have never understood why the cursed system could not keep me entertained up until the rows ahead of me had cleared out and my turn to walk out had come.  Soup-to-nuts entertainment is what I want on a flight.  Is it THAT hard?  Some engineer somewhere must have the answer!

4.  “8-track age” PA systems

Those public announcement (PA) systems on the plane used by the flight attendants to tell you 100 times during boarding to stow one carry-on under the seat in front of you to save overhead bin space…  Is it impossible in this day and age to get clear sound coming out from speakers???  Please, give me a break!!!  Feedback and noise are easily solvable these days, folks, come ON!  Spend some money on engineering please!  And then the pilot comes up during the flight and you can’t hear a thing.  Really???

3.  Continuing the entertainment theme

My next pet peeve applies to airplane configurations where there is a personal TV screen in the back of a seat and where said screen is a touchscreen.  I imagine you can guess what this one is about… It’s about the fact there always seems to be a boxer behind me who thinks the touchscreen is a punchscreen.  PUNCH.  PUNCH. PUNCH.  Hey, idiot, the force of the punch makes no difference.  TAP IT!  I normally do not confront people when they are being inconsiderate but on this one, after a few rounds of PUNCH PUNCH PUNCH, I will turn around and inform them tapping is preferred.  I have a lot of patience to be sure it was not a one-off PUNCH PUNCH PUNCH but after a round of these, I do turn around…

2.  Slingshot seat

Oh, boy, do I just HATE this…  Especially when I am FINALLY asleep (it is hard for me to fall asleep when flying) and the moron behind me thinks the back of the seat in front of them is PURELY for leverage when they get up.  It is one of the most inconsiderate things in a plane in my book…  Added propulsion as I sit placidly, in turn, in a propelled metal tube…  I will give said fellow passenger a look on the second or third incident and after that, if it is a long flight, I do speak up because I don’t want this game going on for hours…

And, drum roll please, …. the number one inflight pet peeve…

1.  Parents behaving badly

Even more than the slingshot seat, parents behaving badly is about the most intolerable things in a plane.  It is not the screaming child that annoys me.   OK, that does, but I understand that toddlers are not always controllable and I can deal with it.  However, it’s the dumbass parents who think the time we are all trapped in a metal cylinder being propelled through the atmosphere by combustible fuel is the time to demonstrate the ideal child-rearing parental behavior are just FREAKING RUDE.  What do I mean about the ideal cihld-rearing parental behavior?  Well, it is that behavior in which you don’t tell the child “no.”  You just let them go on and on yelling (not crying) though it is an overnight flight because you don’t want to “traumatize them.”  Well let me tell you, some day, someone will step up and yell at them and traumatize that child.  It will not traumatize the child if for once you act like a mature adult and be considerate to others around you!

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So, there they are.  What do you think???  But I don’t want to leave just thinking about why flying can be so annoying.  Because flying also affords us great opportunities to see the world and some magical images of our planet and our sun – as this picture shows!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA, sunset, airplane, flying, airplane engine, reflection, sun, plane, flight

One amazing sunset and my plane all captured on the engine!

From Suite to Tent: What Made Accommodations Memorable in Jordan

Throughout all my travels, I have experienced different types of accommodations.  A rented apartment in Tuscany, Krakow, Paris and SofiaNo-frills basic hotels in Stone Town, Moshi, Aswan and Brasov.  Bed & breakfasts in Sonoma, the Dordogne, and Tavistock.  Middle-of-the-road hotels in Reston, Stellenbosch and Venice.  Top-of-the-line in Santiago de Chile, Mykonos, Boca Raton, and Washington D.C.  And a camping tent in Mt. Kilimanjaro.

The type of place I stay at is not happenstance – though staying at a youth hostel in my very late 30s in Oslo was due to no hotels being available for my business trip…  quite the experience!   I select the type of place I stay at based on many factors, such as:

  • am I going solo or with others
  • nature of the trip (business or personal)
  • am I staying in one place for the most part or roaming
  • what I want to spend,
  • what am I looking to experience in this vacation (I may only need a bed or I may want to enjoy a royal experience in my lodging).

But seldom do I experience many types of lodging in one trip.  And that’s exactly what I did in my recent trip to Jordan.  My trip to Jordan confirmed for me that that special something is what makes accommodations truly enjoyable and memorable (which is just as important as enjoying them at the moment!) regardless of the type of accommodation.

Here are the places I stayed at and why they each became as memorable a part of my trip as the many of the sights and sites I got to see in awesome Jordan.

Standard nice hotel

I got to continue my Marriott stays quite accidentally (as I did not have a hand in choosing this time), in both Amman and Petra.  Marriotts give you that standard feel that provides continuity for the very frequent traveler who moves around towns and hotels.  I can count on standard amenities, service and comfort in these.

The Amman Marriott first surprises because it feels like it is in the middle of a neighborhood.  Then you have to go through security – and odd thing but one that I am sure they do to keep me safe and unconcerned.  I felt both.  The restaurant offers a great breakfast buffet.  The outdoor pool area is spacious enough but there is ALSO an indoor pool and and jacuzzi so something for everyone’s water preferences.  The hallways in the room floors feel very luxurious and the rooms are nicer than the regular Marriott I have experienced and I separate this from the room I actually got which was an upgrade due to my Platinum Elite status with the chain:  I got quite a nice suite!!!

Marriott Amman Jordan lobby photo Canon EOS Rebel

Amman Marriott: A great lobby to hang out and read your paper

The Petra Marriott is a smaller hotel than the one in Amman – but what it lacks in size (no executive lounge, for example) it makes up for in the view.  The hotel faces the mountains around Petra from a high vantage point which makes it a great place to watch sunset as well!  The breakfast buffet was also smaller when compared to the Amman one and the staff not as “going out of their way” but it was still a good breakfast.

Lobby of Petra Marriott in Jordan

Lobby area

Atrium in the Petra Marriott in Jordan Olympus

Atrium

Beautiful sunset looking towards the mountains by Petra

Sunset view towards Petra and the hotel’s pool area

Clearly the view from the Petra Marriott made it most memorable but that feeling of arriving at a “second home”-type of place was also pretty darn cool.

Roughing it in a camp

One night we actually “roughed” it at Camp Rummana in the Dana Biosphere Reserve where one can see nature at its best is this part of Jordan.  I put rough in quote because, though sleeping in a tent and using a common bathroom facility are not high-styling it, these tents beat the tent I slept in while climbing Kilimanjaro for sure.  The tents were spacious and they had mattresses on the ground.  There was a common bathroom facility (a hike away if you woke up in the middle of the night and “had to go”) with showers and also a dining area where we had our meals.  Closer to the sleeping tents, was a set of large tents to hang out after dinner before bedtime – true to the Bedouin way.

Inside of a tent in Camp Rummana in the Dana Biosphere Reserve Olympus

A mattress and the basics

tents, Rummana camp, Jordan, Dana Biosphere Reserve

The sleeping tent area of the Rummana camp

Dining area in Camp Rummana in Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan

The dining area. No, he is not a giant.

Nothing like being so close to nature to make a place memorable and the Rummana Camp definitely connected me with the great setting.

An ecolodge

After the hike through the Dana-Feynan canyon, we arrived exhausted at the Feynan Ecolodge, right in the heart of the Dana Biosphere Reserve.  It has been rated one of the world’s top 50 ecolodges by National Geographic’s Adventure magazine. A partnership between the Royal Conservation Society of Jordan and EcoHotels, this lodge seeks to fit in not only with the terrain but also by respecting the local traditions and culture and providing the opportunity for an economic livelihood for the locals of the area.  There is a LOT that is done right by this ecolodge, so remote from main roads and anything urban yet surrounded by some incredible landscapes and skies as well as by the welcoming Bedouins of the area.

Feynan ecolodge, Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan, desert, lodge Olympus

The ecolodge as one approaches it – unassuming!

Feynan is an ecolodge which means little or no electricity available (you can re-charge your device on one of two power outlets in the lobby) which is tough but, at the same time, we are too connected some times so maybe this is a good break?  It also means it only offers vegetarian fare as meat would require refrigeration.  But the food was delicious and quite diverse much to my surprise!  The rooms are very nice; no frills but nice.  Each has its own bathroom.  Oh and water is free – straight from a mineral spring so it is safe to drink!  Now, if it is a hot time of the year, know that the rooms have no fans or A/C (of course) – but you are here for the adventure, right?  Finally, it also has a rooftop telescope – a great place to explore the skies at night.

Room at Feynan Ecolodge in Jordan's Dana Biosphere Reserve Olympus

Room at the ecolodge

Earthen jar or pitcher in the Feynan Ecolodge - mineral watier

Earthen pitcher of mineral water awaits in the room

The ability to get close to the locals without being taken to a “shop” definitely made the Feynan Ecolodge quite memorable to me as was the interesting sunset I got to watch.

A place with an experience

After exploring the Wadi Rum by pick-up truck well into the evening, we arrived at a Captain’s Desert Private Camp to spend the night.  But it was not just to have dinner and spend the night.  There was to be music and more of a soirée experience.  The tents were different than the Rummana Camp‘s but no worse, no better.  There was a nice area to have dinner and hang out, and, in fact, some folks opted to sleep there under the stars.  What was really cool about this place was that it was nested in canyon walls and it was beautiful in the morning.

Captain desert camp in the Wadi Rum, Jordan

Tents in Captain’s Desert Camp

Captain desert camp in the Wadi Rum, Jordan

Hanging out at the camp

The Bedouin experience and the setting made the Captain’s Desert Camp quite a memorable place to stay.  I wish I had been feeling 100% that night to enjoy it more!

A hideaway

We got to stay at this hideaway two times each for one night.  The Evason Ma’in Six Senses hotel may have some details to work out, mainly in its managerial/front office efforts, but the place is in an idyllic and very secluded setting.  Further, it provides great comfort in its rooms, offers great views, and is around hot springs that offer great relaxation.

Room at the Evason Ma'in Six Senses hotel in Jordan

Room. Really like the wooden shutter doors and spacious comfort

Lobby of the Evason Ma'in Six Senses hotel in Jordan

Lobby area

Lobby of the Evason Ma'in Six Senses hotel in Jordan

Detail of the lobby area

The uniqueness of the setting and the proximity and relative isolation of the hot springs as well as the inviting rooms made this place a memorable part of my trip.

And the “living-it-up” resort

My last night in Jordan was by the Dead Sea, where great resorts are located.  I stayed at the Mövenpick, a 5-star resort with a great view, a great offering in terms of food and fun, and an interesting design whether in architectural details or in the concept itself.

Movepick resort Dead Sea Jordan luxury comfort

Incredible details in the decorations at the main entrance

The room was not as luxurious as I would have expected but it was comfortable and spacious for sure.

 

The hotel grounds had several pools including one only for adults (closest to the Dead Sea).

Pools Movenpick hotel resort Dead Sea Jordan Olympus

One of the all-ages pool overlooking the Dead Sea

The main hotel building had many different areas to lounge in with very nice decorations and details.  The restaurant was outstanding in the diversity and quality of the buffet it offered for dinner and breakfast.

Room at Movenpick resort Dead Sea Jordan Olympus

Room

Lounge Movenpick resort by the Dead Sea in Jordan Olympus

One of the many sitting areas

At night there was an area that offered music and belly dancing without the corniness typically associated with belly dancing in the U.S. (where there HAS to be audience participation); you could just really appreciate the art form here without worrying you were going to be called upon to make a fool of yourself…

Movenpick Dead Sea Jordan resort outdoor Olympus

Outdoor area for drinks and entertainment in the evening

What made this place the most memorable was the amazing sunset I got to live through and watch…

Sunset Dead Sea pool Movenpick resort Jordan amazing awesome infinity Olympus photo

The lowest of the pools, closest to the Dead Sea during a GREAT sunset

Glorious, eh?

Sunset Dead Sea birds tree Jordan Canon EOS Rebel, photo

Is this a sunset scene or what??!!

Nuff said!

 

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

Photo of the Week – Approaching Stella Point in Kilimanjaro

You may have already tracked my hike of Mt. Kilimanjaro via the Machame Route through my prior posts (if not, you may want to check them out starting with Day 1!).  One of the most spectacular moments in the climb of the roof of Africa is the approach to Stella Point.  See, Stella Point is one of the entry points to the rim of Kilimanjaro from which the final push to the summit (less than an hour away on less sloped terrain) takes place.  For many people, like me, arriving at Stella Point is a moment of celebration even if you are not done yet.  I just KNEW I would make it to Uhuru Peak (the summit) even if there is no guarantee really as you still have to climb 600 ft or so crossing the 19,000 ft threshold along the way to Uhuru.

But not only is reaching Stella Point a key milestone, you also approach it right as the sun breaks the horizon which makes it a priceless moment for sure – one I will never forget…

Approach to Stella Point in Mt. Kilimanjaro on the way to Uhuru Peak sunrise roof Africa

Climbers on the final approach to Stella Point under a beautiful sunrise(Photo credit: A. Ruppert) 

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