I am fortunate to have visited Cairo two times: once in 1998 and then in 2007. The first with friends and the second for work. However, while we hit some of the key places to see in Cairo in the first trip, one grave mistake was not to explore Old Cairo…  Old Cairo is the way to feel the real Cairo!
A First-Timer in Cairo in 1998
Let me take a step back and tell you about the first visit to Cairo. For that trip, I joined 4 friends about 2 weeks before they were to depart due to an opening in my work schedule in between projects. There were no pre-defined itinerary or arrangements except the plane ticket and the hotel for the first night in Cairo as we were landing at night. I didn’t fly with them as I was using miles to get there so I flew from Atlanta via Newark, Paris, and Istanbul to get to Cairo (I was going to visit Istanbul after Egypt). The first thing that struck me as I got off the airplane and walked the steps was the smell of burning wood, followed quickly by the sense of being in a dry place!
My friends and I were supposed to meet at the airport (I was arriving after they did) but, when I got there, my friends were nowhere to be found. Eventually, I was taken by a customs (or was it immigration?) official eager to take me to his cousin’s taxi business (funny how that works…). I got his “cousin” to let me use his phone to ring our hotel in Cairo – my friends were already there! What happened? The airport had 2 different terminals and we had landed on opposite ones so they ended up going to the hotel. I ended up riding with the customs official’s cousin who, try as he did, could not hit a pedestrian…
I will admit that I was uncharacteristically anxious being there my first time. It was the year after the massacre of tourists at Queen Hatshepsut’s temple in Luxor where many were gunned down execution style. It took the first full day of being in the city to get past this initial anxiety. People’s friendliness made me feel welcome and comfortable and pretty soon I was back to normal mode: ready to explore!
We decided to not spend too much time in Cairo but did want to see the essentials. As happens to most tourists, we were offered a camel ride to see the Pyramids “from behind” by first being taken to someone’s store or house (hard to tell the difference) where we were swayed to hire them with tea and plenty of smiles and friendliness. Riding the camels was a fun ride but they ride differently than horses… However, we did not see the Pyramids up close so we were left still wanting to do that. We tried again the next day to get close to the Pyramids by hiring horses to get us there. I emphasized to our guide that if I didn’t touch the Pyramids, I would not pay – I really wanted to make sure we didn’t get cheated again from seeing them up close. So he made my horse gallop super fast either to pay me back for being demanding or to make sure he could get us further than he had planned in the time he had!
Next on the list: The Mohammed Ali Mosque in The Citadel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_Citadel) which was spectacular (as was the Citadel itself). For sure, one of the best places to see!
We visited the Egyptian Museum which, as you can imagine, have some neat things to show from pharaonic times for those who enjoy the topic. We also hired a car to drive us to Saqqara, a step pyramid south of the city. The site was worth the trip but the drive to it also allowed us to see life outside of the city (e.g., bread being made on a wood burning “stove” by the side of the road).
The end of our stay in Cairo came quickly and we took the overnight train which would take us to the southern city of Aswan. So ended my first visit to Cairo back in 1998…
Cairo Re-Visited 10 Years Later
I returned to Cairo on business to attend a conference with colleagues from around the world. Having gone once and checked out the main sights, it was actually very nice to return and not feel the pressure of visiting a must-see list of places. Instead, we discovered hole-in-the-wall places to eat at, hired a boat for a group of us to cruise up and down the Nile at night, visited Khan el-Khalili (the bazaar or souk), etc. It was a very nice way to enjoy Cairo and just be. In fact, we return to el-Khalili another day not only to shop but, again, to sit and watch life go by – so enjoyable!
I did add to my list of visited sites the Old City which I missed the first time there. What a tremendous miss on a visit to Egypt! The Old City is a phenomenal corner of the large metropolis and full of neat architecture and history… I am glad I got to “re-do” Cairo so I could correct my rookie mistake from 1998!
We first visited the Amr Mosque (Mosque of Amr ibn al-As), first mosque built in Egypt (and Africa) initially built in the 7th century but built-on and expanded over the centuries.
…then the Church of St. George (originally built in the 10th century but completely re-built in 1904)…
… then the Hanging Church (St. Virgin Mary’s Church, largely rebuilt in the 10th century but originally built on the 7th; the main nave is built over a passageway, hence the name “hanging”)…
and the Ben Ezra Synagogue. However, this was not a matter of just visiting important sites as I had always been curious about Coptic Egypt. I really liked the Old City as it was loaded with history and meaning: just about anywhere you look, there is an interesting site or alley!
Cairo – Always Something New to Experience
My second trip differed significantly from the first in many ways. However, Cairo offered me great experiences both times. The city itself awes you (or intimidates you!) as it teems with so many people, so many cars, and so many sounds (and do watch out for those cars!). Some of my favorite images are those of the people I interacted with or saw in their day-to-day life.
Taking a load of fresh bread from a bakery around the suk in Cairo, Khan el-Khalili
Sipping tea while watching others play a game in Khan el-Khalili
It can be initially daunting but then, if you let yourself wander a little and soak life in, say, at a local tea shop, you can begin to see beyond the main things that draw us to go there in the first place – really get a feel for the tempo of and life in this ancient and fascinating city.
You’re so fortunate to visit Cairo not once, but twice. I’d love to visit, but want things to settle a bit before I just head on over there. I think it’s neat to revisit a place. It seems as if I’m able to really soak it in and see and experience things that escaped me the first time. I’m hoping for that in Rome next month.
Leah Travels recently posted..Central Texas: The Best in Texas Bar-B-Que
Leah, yes, I would probably not go there right now, much as I like the city. But like you say, in cities like Cairo and Rome, there is always something new to find. I went to Rome for the third time last April and most of what I saw was stuff I had not explored before, like the Testaccio area, St. Paul Outside the Walls, and a few other things. Enjoy Rome, my friend!
Awesome stuff Raul…I’d imagine it is a very different city than it was 5 years ago…
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Epcot Food & Wine Festival Survival Guide
DJ, I imagine yes in some ways but Cairo is likely quite eternal and I bet many parts have the same feel!
I fell in love with Cairo and this brought me right back! I saw most of the same places you did, but my favorite was Khan el-Khalili. We went there on the last night for shopping, tea, and shisha. So nice to sit out at night among the local people and relax as the day comes to an end.
The World Wanderer recently posted..How I Fell in Love with Group Tours.
I totally agree, Erin – my favorite part was sitting down with tea and a shisha and watch locals go about their business.
Ugh. I’m so jealous it’s not even funny. Aside from India, Egypt has been high on my list ever since I knew the country existed. It sounds incredible. Take us with you the next time you return?
Tawny- Captain and Clark recently posted..We are headed to India as CheapOair’s Travelers of the Year!
Let’s do it, Captain and Clark! And then take me in one of your adventures 🙂 Thanks for checking out the post!
need to get here at least once, although it seems twice is nice too…
stay adventurous, Craig
Craig Zabransky recently posted..Driving The Roads of Scotland – An Adventure in Itself
Craig, I’d love to go yet a third time to keep exploring this incredible and ancient city.
Wow, the Old City is amazing. I spent some some in Northern Africa as a child and teenager, and would love to see more of that region. Egypt is definitely on the list. How nice that you got to visit Cairo twice. Wonderful photos by the way!
Pola (@jettingaround) recently posted..Photo of the Week: John Hancock Center in Chicago
Thanks, Pola! I hope you DO get to make it to Cairo. I’d be interested in learning more about your memories of North Africa – always interested in the memories from the eyes of a child!
i feel like we did cairo all long. we only had three days and missed a few things–including old city. we’ll make it back someday and definitely do it right!
the lazy travelers recently posted..no travel required
Don’t fret lazytraveler! I didn’t see Old City until my second visit so you are in good company!