The Barranco Wall is one of the most dreaded – if not feared- segments of the climb of Mount Kilimanjaro on the Machame Route. People often ask how hard is it to do the Barranco Wall. I was blissfully oblivious to the question before I went on this adventure. Blessed ignorance! While I had researched my trek and prepared for it, I had mostly focused on the training, clothing, gear, and altitude sickness more than on the intricacies of the climb or route itself.
Looking back, I am glad I did not know about the Barranco Wall before I met it that morning… How hard was it to climb the Barranco Wall? Was it like wall climbing or walking along a steep edge? How wide was the path along the Barranco Wall? How high was the Barranco Wall? What would I feel? I am sure the questions would have been endless. And, if you are reading this, perhaps you are asking yourself those questions and seeking answers. I will get to my answers to those questions, but let me take a step back in the narrative here…
Starting day 4 on the Machame route
There is a morning routine to camp life in Mount Kilimanjaro – at least I concocted one all of my own. This routine started with getting my “person” ready (dressing, brushing teeth, etc..). Then it moved to those activities that were about packing up (rolling up the pad, etc.). And the routine ended with getting ready to go (putting on the layers, filling water bottle, etc.).
While I was a little more leisurely about the first set of tasks (I woke up early enough), I usually felt rushed on the latter. I worried every day that I would slow down the group’s departure. Sure enough, I was often the last or second to last person to be ready. Not really sure why, I got up early enough! But I didn’t get voted off the mountain so I guess it was all A-OK!
Day 4 on the Machame Route up Kilimanjaro began like every other day: get out of the zipped-up sleeping bag, figure out where the full pee bottle was to not accidentally crush it, find the camp shoes, put on some warm clothes, have some water, take any of the daily meds required, etc. I executed the full morning routine as if nothing special was about to happen…
Meet the Barranco Wall: A mental and physical wall?
But on day 4 I did wake up with something else on my mind beyond my routine: the Barranco Wall. I had on purpose not read every detail about the Machame Route before I left for the trip as I mentioned earlier because I figured leaving some element of surprise would be good. I did not want to be anticipating what came next but, instead, enjoy each moment in the present (and not dread the next moment…).
Then, the night before we went on the Barranco Wall, I was told about this well-known feature of the trail we were taking. I was not sure what what was shared really meant but I had seen the wall on our way in from a distance and I got a little worried about what it would take to get through it for this amateur. Clearly it was going to be a narrow path with the wall on one side and the “fast” way down on the other… I tried to not think about it because there was no sense in over-processing it. But I was hoping it was not wall climbing with a cliff’s edge right by my feet…
It should be called the Barranco Wait, not the Barranco Wall
Of all the things to have worried about, wall climbing was not it. No mental or physical wall there (that does not mean there were not a couple of tricky moments!). The real “wall” was the wait to cross the Barranco Wall! See, normally trails are wide enough to walk two people side-by-side which allows for letting porters pass you without you having to stop or get out of the way. We appreciated porters because they make the trek possible for the hikers (more on the porters here). So we always let them pass if we were walking side by side at any point.
However, the trail on the Barranco Wall narrowed to single file for most of it. The wall did require some times pulling yourself over rocks but always with the trail on either side of it (that is, never floating over empty space below). So porters would be trapped waiting for hikers to work their way through these points.
Our group stayed off to the side right before the Barranco Wall started to let as many porters pass but it became rather tedious as we ended up sort of waiting for like a good 30 minutes or so. Other than that the wall should take an hour or two depending on your fitness level and the traffic ahead.
Finally, the wall
Wondering what lay ahead of me in the trail for this day, I was quite eager to initiate the hike (instead of pondering what lay ahead). I sensed others around me were ready to go for whatever reasons of their own.
We finally got started and I found the wall was actually quite doable. Yes, the trail narrowed at certain points to widths not comfortable for everyone but this actually did not bother me – but I still made sure I was closer to the wall than to the trail’s edge 🙂 The Barranco Wall is between 200-300 m high and, while not trivial, it didn’t hit me as scary from an altitude standpoint though people are very different when it comes to altitudes and ledges so keep that in mind.
Given we had to go very slowly, I had the time to look back at the direction of the Barranco Camp and the entrance to the Barranco Wall… And the ever-important photos…
In the end, there were a couple of “tight” spots. One was a little jump, where help was necessary and useful (from a physical and mental block standpoint). It was better to have one’s hands free along the path to be able to hold on to things. So the hiking poles helped me most by being packed away versus in my hands. The physical exertion was a non-issue for me along the wall and I was glad for that – but there was more ahead, post wall… The Barranco Wall, for someone not afraid of heights, was not a hard thing to do. I suspect it is a different story for someone afraid of heights.
The trail after the Barranco Wall: a trail of doubt for me
With the wall behind us, I felt relief that now we were going to be back on a more “normal” trail – I had this! Well, we were not quite back to one of those normal trails. The trail after the Barranco Wall required climbing over a lot of rocks (without a cliff around) and the exertion of climbing over large rocks actually left me quite winded. I could see myself lagging the group a bit more with every passing section of the trail and I was not happy. Frustration and doubt started to creep in…
Our Trekking for Kids lead reassured me that the extra exertion of the legs would definitely have this impact (picture, if you will, the difference between walking uphill vs. walking up the same incline using stairs: it is harder on the latter). Still I was disappointed, I wondered if my fitness level was not up to par (I should have hiked more…) and – furthermore- what did this presage about summit night??
Our lead hiking guide, checking in on me at the next break, told me that an accelerated heart rate is also caused by altitude and may not be necessarily a statement about my fitness level. I appreciated the support of the TFK lead and our lead guide. It helped me muster enough strength to get me past this stage of the trail – but just barely…
Onwards and upward on Kilimanjaro!
Mercifully, after that stage, the trail become more the normal up and down hills so I was OK on those. Occasional rocks along the way were further apart from each other so the issue did not re-surface. I once again believed I could do this! My first moment of doubt since entering the mountain had lasted maybe less than an hour. But, mentally, it had been huge. So this is what people mean when they say climbing Kili is both a physical AND a mental challenge…
Along the way, the weather was seemingly taking a turn for the worse. So, we made a quick stop to put on our rain gear but it really did not rain much or for long at all – whew! While it would not have been terrible, it is just not fun…
We arrived at the Karanga Camp (13,800 ft; 4,200 m) after a 4 mile (7 km) hike that took us around 5 hours. We were very pleased that it was another nice camp on a sloping hillside with great views. The tents were on a little bit of a slope. But after one slightly uncomfortable night on Day 2, I learned the trick to make the sleeping bag as horizontal as possible. Just put stuff under the sleeping pad to even it out – simple solution!
Getting the best sleep in Kilimanjaro – sleeping pad
It is worth explaining that we used sleeping pads under the sleeping bags for two reasons:
- Further insulate you from the cold ground, and
- A little more comfort in sleep with the extra padding.
For me, though, it was more about the comfort question as my zero-rated sleeping bag did a great job with the temperature.
My sleeping pad was an inflatable one (but not self-inflatable). I had not brought a pump with me to avoid the extra weight (the pump and then all the batteries). Given the altitude and diminished oxygen levels, I was worried this would be an issue. But it actually was no trouble at all. I just inflated the pad sometime before dinner so it was ready for bedtime. Plus it helped me practice my pressure breathing – good exercise for my lungs at altitude!
Folding the sleeping pad in the morning after deflating it to slip back into its tight packing sleeve was actually THE worst moment of my morning routine… EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. I should have traded sterilizing someone’s water every morning for folding up and packing my sleeping pad…
It’s all in the views…
Like many moments on this climb, neat views delight when they appear. After the Barranco Wall waiting room, the post-wall stage which slowed me down and brought doubt, and the slight rain we experienced, it was the nice views that really motivated me to continue with every day and every step. Such motivation was, for me, this view on Day 4…
Back to Day 3…
… or on to Day 5!!
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Pin this image of the Barranco Wall to your board – you will make it OK through it – even if you have to wait!
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Other posts about my Mount Kilimanjaro trek experience:
– Preparing for the hike is more than training and gear
– Clothing required for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro
– The Machame Route: our way up
– 7 things you will not see me without as I climb Kili
– Day 1 of the hike: and away we go!
– Interview with fellow Kili climber and Ultimate Global Explorer Len Stanmore
Raul, I’m really enjoying reading your blog entries about Kili. It’s neat to be able to compare the experience with someone else that did it at almost the same time (and yes, I promise to eventually write more posts about my Kili experience, but first I want to finish the Mount Kenya entries).
An interesting note is that our guide decided to have us be the last group to leave Barranco Camp. His justification for this was that some groups would start quite early and continue all the way to the Barafu base camp, and (as you experienced) there would be a long traffic jam on the wall all morning long. We left camp around 8:45am. There were a few stragglers on the Wall, but we really didn’t have to wait for anyone. However, it also means that I didn’t get to pause and take in the great views (and get the resulting photos) that you did.
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Thanks, Ryan! I look forward to reading about Kili from you and I will also be checking out Mt. Kenya! I want to say we started Day 4 a little later than normal for that reason too but maybe not later enough!
What an experience! Did you take notes everyday?
@mrsoaroundworld recently posted..Martinborough, New Zealand – a wine sensation
@MrsO, I take some notes especially on names and key facts (altitude, distance, price) in general. I don’t journal though if I have a thought I don’t want to forget later, I will also jot it down quickly. My photos help me recall the things I want to talk about quite well!
@LazyTs, thanks!
we’re proud that you kept pushing through, raul!!
the lazy travelers recently posted..everything but the kayak with kayak kauai
Well done! Love the view at the end.
OMGgg… I don’t think I could do it but so proud of you for doing it! Living vicariously for sure. I like the pic with all the tents. Lol
Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted..Full Moon Party in Thailand
I thought I could not do it and here I am!
Raul recently posted..Traveling Away from Family on Thanksgiving: 3 Things I Do that Help
description made me feel like I was part of the hike! Love the details!
Glad it helped you feel like you were there!
Raul recently posted..Along the Great Ocean Road in Australia
I keep forgetting you are such an elevation until I am reminded by your prose… blowing something up every evening to sleep on…how long did that take? wondering how can you even prepare in advance for that…
looking forward to day 5.
stay adventurous, Craig
Craig Zabransky recently posted..Safely Drinking a Margarita in its Birthplace-Juarez, Mexico
@Craig, it really didn’t take any longer than it would have down here. I was expecting it would take more. But since I used the “pressure breathing” technique, I had more oxygen in my lungs than otherwise at that altitude. I got to practice pressure breathing while getting the pad inflated!
Raul….I am so excited! Kili is on the bucket list. Not sure when….but in the next couple of years! I did some trekking in the Everest region, so I feel like I know what you were going through as you climbed, one by one, through that narrow pass. We didn’t stay in tents so had no challenges there…but I will be ready for it. Thanks for that tip! More motivated than ever to get over there!
Anita Mac recently posted..Vegas Bucket List: Beyond the Casinos
I have to say, I LOVE reading these day-by-day experiences. I’ve always said I’ve wanted to climb Kili, but I really didn’t know what it would entail. You’re photos are really telling me the story.
The World Wanderer recently posted..La Banquise: The Best Poutine in Montreal?
I hope you get to do it some day!
Raul recently posted..Photo of the Year and My Wish for 2014
love the photos here, Raul. not sure if they are convincing me to try this someday or that i don’t have what it takes 😉
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@Lola, I KNOW you have what it takes, my story aside 🙂
Whoa!! That’s one crowded campsite!
jill recently posted..Carving the Cliffside: The Quest For Nicaragua’s Elusive Sculptor
It sure was!
Raul recently posted..Minneapolis: A City of Arts and Culture
I am taking this trip in two weeks. This is the one part of the route that is freaking me out. I don’t do well with heights and I’ve been reading about the Kissing Rock part of the wall.
How hard is this day?
About how narrow does the trail get?
Ivan, first of all, thanks for stopping by. I hope the writeup was helpful. I was a little worried as I headed into the Wall myself. (I am OK with heights in general but there is such a thing as too close to an edge, etc. so I was worried.) I expected that I would be walking on a ledge or hanging on to rocks on the wall just so I could walk and move. It was not that bad. If memory serves me right, most of the path was at least 3 ft (1m) wide if not more. There was one moment where a big step was needed but the guides are right there to help you. If I had to return, having seen it now, I would not worry at all. In terms of how hard the day is, there can be a wait to get onto the Barranco Wall segment so that was a pain. After the Barranco Wall, I found myself winded often but that could have been not being as fit as I should have been. After getting to the top, I found the rest of the route beautiful and, while there were still hills, they were quite doable.
Please let me know if this helped or if you have other questions. All I can say is 1) it is worth it, 2) the guides are there to help you with whatever you have to deal with, and 3) you likely will do just fine! I understand the concerns but that night before the Barranco Wall admire the beauty around that camp – it was neat – and let that help you keep the eye on the summit! I’d love to hear back from you after your hike to find out how it went. I hope you have a fantastic experience and remember to stay hydrated and go pole pole!!
Raul recently posted..A Grain of Truth about Minneapolis
Raul,
Thanks for the tips and encouragement! I’m getting nervous since my trip is only 2 weeks away! I’m going through my packing list and trying to get everything in order.
I will definitely let you and your readers know how it went!
Ivan
I am very much interested In the Kili adventure but I really have a fear of heights. Just how intimidating is the Barranco wall. Is it like walking/climbing on a ledge with a shear drop on one side. I don’t really get a good idea of it from the pictures.
Dave recently posted..On My Way Back to Trek in Patagonia
Dave, good question. It was not like walking on a tight rope or something like that. The width was like 4-6 ft wide if memory serves me right.
Dave,
I’m afraid of heights also but it was not bad at all. When you stand at the bottom and look up it is intimidating and it looks vertical. That’s because there’s noting else to give it a true perspective. When you start climbing you realize it is nothing out of this world. You just have to put down your poles and scramble up rocks. There are people everywhere. If you do fall, at most you’ll fall like 3 feet or something. The path is wide and there are no sheer cliffs.
Ivan
Hi, I came across your blog during research il attempting Kili and as I only have use of one hand, if you had any tips for taking on the wall?
Andrew
Andrew, thanks for writing. My gut answer is that you should be fine. My recollection of the Barranco Wall is that it is mainly a path that can be walked, along a wall of rock. There may be a couple of spots were climbing (or a small jump) over rocks was required but not like doing wall climbing. I want to say someone grabbed my elbow to support me at one of those spots so that would not be an issue if you also needed that type of support. When are you headed there?? It will be an amazing experience!!
I’m off in two weeks Raul, going across to Mt Meru before hand to further aid my fitness, endurance, acclimatisation and resolve. I’m looking forward to it no end
Andrew, I have a feeling you will succeed – great prep, research, etc. Please send me a note upon your return – would love to hear about your experience! Best of luck in Tanzania!
I completed both Mt Meru and Kilimanjaro!!! Actually found Summit night on meru technically harder. However I was exhausted coming down from Kili summit.
Andrew, thank you for taking the time to let me know how it went! I did not contemplate Mt. Meru. Was it more steep summit night there? I can’t imagine me doing anything harder than Kili summit night. And was Barranco wall better/worse than you expected? Congratulations on two climbs!
Meru summit night has a lot of scrambling at night along low gradient walls. Some sections it has chains to hold for direction just enough rock to get a comfortable purchase on once daylight arrives. At night I slid across on my bum but partly cause chain was on my bad side. On way back it’s totally different experience. The wall on Kili was doddle didn’t notice kissing rock till I past it really, I expected more drama.
I actually found day two more difficult on Kili, not helped by 3 days solid rain (I’m a Scot I should be used to that. But it was like a monsoon) and fact it was more rocky. Always felt off balance. Lava tower walk was nice. Tho I hated camp for summit attempt think my camp was further away and so uneven. Once walk started thoght Kili summit was straight forward. Tho come img down my body almost gave up on me. I was in agony walking down to camp. The guides even looked out stretcher. However after nap I was back to normal Tho I hated the rock stairs going down. I sprinted the last 100 meters at the end
Andrew, sorry for not responding earlier. I was spared the solid rain at the start of Kili which was good because I hear it gets really muddy. Season is important. Coming down, I had similar experience to you. Agony is the right word for what I felt on the way down, after we had lunch at basecamp to keep going to the final camp. The path was a never-ending rock path (your “rock stairs”!), pounding my knees and falsely alluring me with a random -and too short- flat path. We saw a roof in the distance, far distance, and were half excited that there was the end goal. Then we found out that was NOT our final camp. Goodness, I have never come so close to utter despair! I popped a few Advils to keep my knees from killing me. I did it and I was just amazed I didn’t collapse along the way! So any new adventure planned? I am hoping for a big trek in 2018.
The pain is real!!!! I thought the exact same thing when I seen the roof, what made it all the worse as well I was talking to another group who actually ended up stopping there the buggers.
I have another adventure in April next year. Decided to go to Nepal. Fly into Kathmandu then other flight to Lukla up to The Bazaar then Thame before going across to Thamaboche. Actually fly out Easter Sunday 2018
LOL. On Nepal, I went on 2015. Did not go all the way to Everest Base Camp (not enough vacation). What I liked about Nepal vs. Kili was that you actually are staying in small hamlets (that is, you get to see Nepalese culture for that region vs. Kili where there are no hamlets or locals). The teahouse concept is pretty cool, I think. Namche Bazaar was my favorite place but the hike up to it was the hardest of the entire trek (for me)! We went another day past the big monastery (HIGHLY recommend going that far) before turning back. I’d recommend staying two nights in Namche – cool little town! Here is the writeup about getting to Namche: https://ilivetotravel.me/nepal-hiking-trekking-namche-sagarmatha/ I am planning on going on another trek with the non-profit I trek with (Trekking for Kids). They have not announced treks for 2018 but I am hoping for a hike on the Slovenian Alps!
Such a huge accomplishment! Also, beautiful views!
Thank you! It is still unbelievable that I went for it – and made it!
Actually found Summit night on Kilimanjaro technically harder. However I was exhausted coming down from Kilimanjaro uhuru summit!
Very helpful tips!