How Hard Is It to Climb Kilimanjaro?

17 February 2018 by Raul 18 Comments

A few years ago I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa by virtue of being the tallest mountain there. I have written about how I prepared, what I wore for the climb, and how each day was from day 1 to reaching Uhuru Peak (Kili’s summit) to coming down the mountain. However, one of the things I have not written about directly is one of the questions I commonly get asked: “how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro?”

I get the question directly but I also it in a different way: when people look at me like I did an almost impossible feat. I get that it is not something most people do hence why it is a feat of a kind. But to me there are crazier and/or harder things (it is all relative, isn’t it??). So I wanted to share a little of my perspective on how hard it is to climb Kili.

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The first time I saw Kili outside of the Honey Badger Lodge – such an amazing mountain!

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A photo shared in my earlier post showing what I took with me (for the climb and subsequent safari)

A bucket list item that never was: Kilimanjaro

I never planned or thought of climbing Kilimanjaro. It had never occurred to me even as a fleeting thought. Nowhere in the radar. I had barely heard or read of people who had done it. Nor was I a big hiker to begin with (I had never slept in a tent until my first night on Kili!). My first multi-day hike ever had been the year before I climbed Kili when I hiked four days in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania with Trekking for Kids (TFK). This all changed one night at a fundraiser for TFK a few months later.

At this event, folks started egging me on to join them in a few months later on the climb Kilimanjaro with TFK. I considered the whole idea preposterous. I felt tremendously ill-suited for something so physically demanding. “Climbing Kilimanjaro is too hard,” I thought. While I exercise regularly and consider myself to be generally fit, I was not running half marathons (had done it once a dozen years before) nor doing bootcamps a few days a week nor anything of the like.

Climbing Kilimanjaro was for the super athletes of the world. I was far from being that though I knew I was in slightly better shape than the average person. But, a lot of cajoling, elbowing, and a couple (or 4) glasses of wine later, I succumbed to friendly group pressure and banter. I said yes. In a way, I was feeling excited that I would attempt something so ‘crazy’ and out of my comfort zone (always a good thing to do every now and then).

The next morning I woke up and incredulously remembered the prior night’s events. I was asking myself why I had agreed to undertake this ludicrous effort instead of politely saying I’d think about it. Well, I am not one to disappoint so I decided I was going to give it a shot after all. I decided that not because I thought that I had what it took. In fact, I thought it would take a LOT of training time I did not have. Training at altitude I also did not have easy access to. And requiring plenty more hiking experience at altitude or not that I did not possess…

Ready to start the climb – clean, well-prepared, and eager!

Getting ready for climbing Kilimanjaro

A million questions started swirling in my head once I accepted I was indeed going to stick to this. SO many question! How do I best prepare? What do I need to bring with me? What do I need to wear to deal with the cold? Can I do anything to improve my chances at the doing well under exertion? Can I do anything to help me be ready for the high altitude? What did I need to know in terms of my personal safety? How much was it going to cost me when it was all said and done? And on and on.

I was fortunate to have been doing the expedition to Kili with an outfit like TFK. They provided a good bit of info to help us prepare ourselves, and gladly answered all my questions as I researched things and acquired the things I needed. I even remember being at REI looking at stuff. I called TFK’s Director of Operations, an all-around hiking guru. And started asking many questions to understand the options, look at items, see if the items’ features were really needed, and all that sort of good stuff. It was not easy but having access to expert knowledge helped make these key decisions, Especially when spending is required and one has to be careful what one spends the hard-earned money on!!

I won’t repeat here all the things I decided to do in terms of preparation or to pack in terms of the best clothing options and non-clothing items to bring; I will provide links to those posts below. But now I will address here the “how hard” question…

So how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro then?

Hiking to the summit of a 19,340 foot mountain is not something to be undertaken lightly. OK, perhaps if you are a superstar athlete or have the right genes you can… but most of us do not fit that category. Actually, I take that back: even being a superstar athlete does not guarantee you will make it to the top of the mountain or even to the rim of the volcano (Stella Point for our route up).

Physical conditioning is only part of what is needed to make it to Uhuru Peak, the summit. It will most CERTAINLY help you tons. I experienced difficulties after the intimidating Barranco Wall and, of course, summit night for not being in the best possible shape. However, the other key factor affecting your chances of success is, well, simply how your body deals with the high altitude and lower oxygen levels.

The good news: you can do a couple of things that help a tad. Nevertheless, you have to have an OK fitness level. You WILL be exerting your body through a few hours a day of walking and gradual climbs, mixed with some steeper climbs at certain points!

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Leaving the Lava Tower looks harder than it was (Day 3)

Training at altitude would help but, from what I understand, the body’s adjustment to altitude dissipates within a few days/a week so that may not be logistically possible for most (if money and time were no object, of course, one would train at high altitude in another continent for a week or two and head straight to climb Kili without wasting days in between – not a likely approach for most). I did not do any high altitude / long climbs as part of my training due to many constraints but certainly they can only help so if you are able to do some of that in the weeks before, then your fitness level will be better.

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Heading to Barafu Camp from where we would launch to the summit (Day 5)

Part of my training as I share elsewhere was walking on a treadmill on a high incline with a backpack loaded with twice the weight I would carry on the mountain. It was an odd sight at the gym for sure but it helped physically if not just mentally… That and the fact that I am in general good shape through routine exercise were in my favor but I still struggled summit night (who doesn’t?) and after the Barranco Wall.

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Climbing along (not up) the Barranco Wall had its challenging spots (me in orange!) (Day 4)

A little while after the Barranco Wall (OK, an hour or so), we got hit by a little rain

Kilimanjaro was far from easy (each day I would end completely drained and able to move but barely). But I feel it is a reasonable, attainable goal for people with a fair degree of training/fitness. And with the drive to push themselves beyond what they think they can do. Yet, with all that, it will still all depend on how the high altitude hits each particular individual. And that reaction cannot be predicted.

I have to say that MOST CERTAINLY going with a great organization (in my case, a non-profit like Trekking for Kids) and having a one-of-a-kind extremely seasoned lead guide as we had (Luis Benitez – read about him here) were key success factors in helping ME complete the journey from planning to trekking to summitting. And making it down in one piece!

What was the hardest part about climbing Kilimanjaro?

It is a hard question to answer. We are all so different. My answer may not be yours. Things I can think of include:

the cold, especially at summit night,
the longing for a nice glass o’ wine or a beer (OK, I threw that in for comic relief),
the badly needing to get up to pee in the middle of the night (if taking Diamox – or not),
the constant packing and unpacking, inflating and deflating,
the not showering,
the bathroom situation at camp and on the trail,
the rocks to climb requiring longer legs than I have,
the having a sick tent-mate and wondering for days if you will catch it and not be able to summit,
etc.

(NOTE: Observe that food is not on this list of possible “hard” things. I ate great stuff thanks to our great porters and crew!)

But, frankly, all these things are overcomeable. For instance, while I used wipies every day to sort of clean up after a day of hiking, I had no such thing for the hair. Yet not even ONCE on the mountain did I think that it had been days since I had washed my hair last. Those who know me will know how incredible THAT sounds.

Kilimanjaro: Hard climb but special

That’s what makes going up Kili something special.

YES, it is hard in many ways. Indeed, physically, no matter how well trained you are (with those rare exceptions). But the hardest part is the mental part. When you wonder if you really can make it all the way. And when you wonder whether you want to – on one of those rare moments when you are too tired to think straight.

The hardest part is keeping going, putting one foot in front of the other when you think you can step no more. But you can. And you will. Pole, pole. Slowly, slowly – our internal Swahili chant. And you will be so amazed when it is all done that you actually did it. That you had it in you. I never knew I did. But I did. And I found out through this amazing experience… I am eternally grateful for those folks at that fundraiser who egged me on. Because the sense of achievement and the self-discovery was truly a gift received – or earned, actually 🙂

And this is the face of happiness at 19,340 ft above sea level at the summit, with my family close to me.

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At Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro!! (with the short-lived too-reflective sign; it’s gone now)

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Some key links to other posts I have written here based on my experience of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro:

Gear for Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro Clothing

Preparing to Hike Kili: More than Training and Gear

Top 14 Items to Bring on a Climb of Kilimanjaro

And if you want to read a day-by-day walkthrough of what it is to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro, start with Day 1.

And if you just like hiking in general, check out some of my posts about hiking in different places around the world!

Hiking in the state of Georgia: Blood Mountain

Hiking in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania

Trekking the W Circuit in Patagonia

Doing the Camino de Santiago in Spain

A Hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina

Would love to hear from you about places you hope to hike or favorites past hikes – always good to get ideas from others for future hikes!!

Filed Under: Africa, Hiking, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania Tagged With: adventure, Africa, climb, climbing, hiking, how hard Kilimanjaro, Kili, Kilimanjaro, mountain, Seven Summits, Tanzania, trekking, Uhuru

Pashupatinath | A Unique Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal

8 January 2018 by Raul 1 Comment

Visiting a new place can make us feel out of sorts. That could be due to a number of reasons. Maybe just the climate being different. Or, the people behave in ways different than ours. Or, the food being different. That can be especially true when visiting a place with a different religion than the one(s) we know. That was true when I visited Kathmandu, Nepal. The city itself did not feel strange. Actually, it felt very comfortable there. But I visited a temple in Kathmandu that I was ill-prepared for.

Frankly, I felt very ambivalent about my presence there once I got there. And it was not the conceptual part of the site that threw me for a loop. It was more the sensory perceptions once at the place… but, before all that…

Intro to Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu

Before flying to Lukla to hike the Everest Base Camp trail, our agenda had us visiting the Pashupatinath Temple, on the banks of the Bagmati River in the east side of Kathmandu. It was a group activity for us trekkers so I went along. As usual, I was eager to see more of the city and explore more of the cultural and religious aspects of Nepal. Before getting there, we understood it was a Hindi religious site where, among other things, ritual cremations took place. First, a little more about this centuries-old Hindu temple.

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A bit up from cremation area is a bridge to cross into the main complex

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Many structures built upon the other over time

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Along the river bank after the bridge

Lord Pashupatinath is the national deity of Nepal. Therefore, this temple is one of the most important ones in the Hindu faith. When I speak about the temple, I actually refer to the overall complex of temples (big and small) and other religious sites around the main temple, which only people of the Hindu faith can actually enter. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This designates Pashupatinath as a place of unique importance and meaning to the world at large. It holds many religious festivals throughout the year – it must be quite a sight!

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Lattice work

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Close-up of the woodwork

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While non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, we got close to it and got to peek through the gate.

The main temple is built in a pagoda style and has a gilded roof. The area around the entrance was decorated with beautiful artwork that I am sure has a lot more meaning than I understand (it shows deities but I can’t really explain… if you, reader, know, leave a comment to educate us!). I was left wondering if it felt more solemn once inside…

Entrance to the main temple

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Close-up of the area above the entrance (Shiva)

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Close-up of the side of the entrance (Ganesha)

Detail on the outside walls of the main temple

Peeking in through the main temple gate (golden rear end of Nandi, Shiva’s bull)

The structures around the complex were not homogeneous. The materials and colors seemed diverse. Perhaps because of being built up over many centuries? The buildings and the architectural details caught my eye (and my lens). For sure, it was a lot to take in – it was a feast for the eyes. I didn’t know where to focus since it was all new to me.

Cool building – like all the wood work

Love this type of detail

Friends conversing

But the thoughts about my first visuals upon entering the complex lingered with me throughout the visit despite the great things I was looking at.

Entering the temple

When we arrived we had entered through a gate that brought us directly face-to-face with the cremation area by the river.

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Our first sighting of the temple was the ‘ghats’ where the bodies are cremated

There were monkeys all over the place. Not sure if they like being by the water, if they are all over, or what.

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One of the many…

Cremations at Pashupatinath

In any case, the area where the cremations take place can hold several cremations at the same time on either side of the river. The body of the departed is placed on a “platform” (or ‘ghat’). This platform juts out into the river a little. On this platform the funerary pyre is set. The side of the river close to the entrance we took is simpler whereas the opposite river bank offers more shade for the relatives and friends of the recently departed. Behind that area there are several structures at a higher level. We were told that if the families have come from a long way, they may stay there.

Once the ritual cremation is done, the embers are allowed to die down. Then, the ashes (and anything else that remains) are thrown into the river. The hope is that those remains reach the Ganges River, one of the most sacred rivers of the Hindu faith. Relatives of the departed step into the river as part of the cremation ritual. Hence, the steps that form the river banks at the temple.

Finishing cleaning up the area

Preparing for a cremation

Visiting this temple in Kathmandu gave more than I was ready for

I knew that this was a religious practice as I had witnessed, via TV, the funerals of people like Indira Gandhi and others of the Hindu faith who were cremated in similar fashion (open-air as part of a religious ritual). So as I entered the complex, I felt “aware.” Going to a temple in Kathmandu surely would not provide a surreal experience, right?

And then the smells generated by the cremations hit me. To say I was unprepared for that is a massive understatement. I had not stopped to think ahead of time about how it would feel to be physically present (not just in front of a TV or computer screen) at an open-air cremation.

We were quite far from the river’s edge when the smell reached us. What made it uncomfortable was that it reminded me of the smell at a cookout back home but I knew this was an important religious ritual we were seeing from a distance. It was disconcerting, feeling guilty about making that comparison mentally, about thinking that I was in person seeing something that I would never expect to see back home as an eyewitness. As I stood there, I hesitated on taking any picture of the scene but decided to do it as it would be from a good bit of a distance away and I felt I was doing so with a respectful intent.

Experiencing the world through travel is not always easy

Looking at those photos today, all the feelings come rushing back: my awkwardness with the moment, the sensory memories… But, traveling is about expanding one’s understanding of the world, about learning of others’ perspectives and beliefs, and about being OK with not always being comfortable with what one comes across. I struggle with saying I am glad I had that experience – I am not sure I can say I am “glad.” And I will have to be OK with that. But I am glad to have learned more about the meaning of what I witnessed to the faithful for whom this is supremely important…

Not sure what this prayer man is called but photo highlights what this place is about

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How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

2 January 2018 by Raul 3 Comments

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience. Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train. Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience. In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp. While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine. In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live: they are parks. But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand. Either way, the result is the same. One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience. It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return. That was OK with me. In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around. (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”. See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed. I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route. I also discovered the more impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!). The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft). EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft). So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night). Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous. (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar). Sleeping quarters are not heated. And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center. So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along. There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff. So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics. But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten. Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

Upper Body and Legs: The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost. Layers are key to both. Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan. Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood. The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice. It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
Feet: The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable. Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet. Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places. You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots. The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space. Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
Hands: Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must. You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
Head: A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know. You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).

Gear and other practical items

Sleeping bag: While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen. So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring. I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated. Very much needed!
Night light: When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc. Don’t forget batteries!
Pillow: A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow. I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

Trekking poles: Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support. Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!
Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar
Water: Treating water is very important. A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal. Batteries are the big thing here. Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it. Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through. Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen. I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack. It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.

Wipies/Tissues: These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty. Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around. Or other general cleaning purposes! [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
Towel: A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels. Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold. Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…

Medications and first aid: The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances. But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc. Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs. Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within. Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request. The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
Personal items: The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc. Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).

And, of course, duct tape! Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs! I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest! Pin it to your board!

If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below. I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!). Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Himalayas, Nepal Tagged With: adventure, Everest, hiking, Himalayan teahouse, Himalayas, Nepal, outdoors, pack for everest, packing list, tips for everest case bamp, travel, trekking

Angkor Thom’s Main Temple: Bayon

7 January 2017 by Raul Leave a Comment

While Angkor Wat is the better known of all the temple complexes in Cambodia, there are others that are a must. Bayon is one of those. It is imposing and a veritable maze, making it fun to explore. Bayon (built in the 12th-13th century period) sits in the middle of Angkor Thom which was the capital of the Khmer Empire back when (it is said between 80-150K people lived there at its peak back then). Bayon was at the center of that capital city as its most important temple. If you look at a map, the moat around Angkor Thom is much larger than the one around Angkor Wat. (All these sites got “lost” in the early 1600s for a few centuries.) Movies like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider have had scenes shot at Angkor Thom.

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Bayon (Angkor Thom is the larger square around it) in relation to Angkor Wat

We approached Angkor Thom and had a great view of the wall around Angkor Thom and a bridge (or causeway) decorated on either side with sitting statues. One drives through a gate that towers at the end of the bridge with each side of the tower carved with the face of a divinity. I believe we went through the south gate.

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Causeway entering Angkor Thom from the south

View across the causeway of the south gate

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Statues on the causeway

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The south gate

In any case, one approaches the main temple at Angkor Thom, Bayon, among a green field with palm trees. Having first seen Angkor Wat with its dramatic towers and monumentality, Bayon felt a little less imposing yet so different it looked magnificent.

Approaching Bayon – majestic!

From then we walked around different former hallways and around many towers and carvings. It is said Bayon is more baroque while Angkor Wat is more classical Khmer style. I am not an expert but certainly can tell that Bayon was much more loaded with carvings and more elaborate. Bayon is certainly striking due to the many towers carved on four sides with faces of deities or other figures but it lacked the big open spaces within it that Angkor Wat had.

Imposing

The explorers look diminutive as our guide tried to capture it all

Interesting things no matter where you look

As in many places, it is fun to watch other tourists engage with the site – and take their photo while they do so 🙂

Strike a pose!

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One of the many tourists 🙂 (thanks, Phil I. for snapping this winner!)

While Angkor Wat is overall more imposing, Bayon is definitely different enough to warrant the time to explore it – hope you get to do so!

Filed Under: Asia, Cambodia, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Cambodge, Cambodia, Camboya, carvings, explore, Khmer, photo, Samsung Galaxy, temple, tourism, travel

Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

11 April 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back. As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin. This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche. This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post. And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s. We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below. A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right. This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek. Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

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Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area: Ama Dablam. It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker. Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house. Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite. Sometimes one, sometimes the other. Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun. A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

Lemon tea, anyone? One or two glasses…

Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand. They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb. I was torn. On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating). I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch… But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit. So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?). In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours. The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon. It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal. We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world. And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

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Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

Lots of color and detail

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche. With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away! Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek. Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too. The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had. I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me. We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

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Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly. There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water. I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer… The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature. Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning… Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change: a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche… The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari). It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors. That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways. We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail… While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal: the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.

Want to start at the beginning of this trek? Here is day 1. Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.

Pin this beautiful image to your board!

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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Ama Dablam, base camp, Deboche, Everest, going from Tengboche to Deboche, hiking, hiking to Deboche, Himalayas, monastery, mountains, nature, Nepal, outdoors, Tengboche, trekking

Building a School in Kumari, Nepal

26 November 2015 by Raul 8 Comments

Prior to my trek in the Himalayas along the route to Everest Base Camp, I spent 3 days in the village of Kumari, Nepal thanks to Trekking for Kids‘ work to support this village. The village, as many places in Nepal, was severely impacted by the April 2015 earthquake that struck the country.

The recently-built medical clinic was quite damaged and the school that served about 400 children was pretty much destroyed.

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Most damaged part of the clinic

Trekking for Kids had planned a trip to Nepal (it has been going there for years to bring hope to orphaned kids via its treks) and chose to direct the funds raised by us trekkers towards the re-construction of the school. The school certainly will provide a better environment for the kids to receive education but it will also encourage parents to send the kids to school which helps reduce the risk that human trafficking poses for these children.

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Makeshifts structures -and outdoor spaces- serve as temporary classrooms

Teacher holding class outdoor

Our stay in Kumari

We left Kathmandu on our way to Kumari, a village development center in the Nuwakot district. Though it seems to be about 30 miles from Kathmandu, as the eagle flies, it took us about 3.5 hours. The first 1.5 hrs were on a paved road that we left after a quick stop at a roadside kiosk. From then on, we took a dirt and bumpy road that in the rainy season is impassable, driving past terraced hills and lots of green. Occasionally we would pass small rural homes and saw a little bit of life in the countryside.

In Kumari, we stayed in the medical clinic compound, a very large space that was fenced and gated. The medical clinic laid near the far end and had been badly damaged by the April 2015 quake. Though damaged, a couple of spaces were still in use for examinations and to house the pharmacy. Behind the clinic, there was a small structure housing the women’s and the men’s restrooms (2 stalls each) plus one basic shower. Along the sides of the compound were tents used by our group and others supporting the construction work and our visit. I imagine the tents were donated post-quake to help with temporary housing for locals but I think I heard tents were not very successful in Nepal as they were too foreign for regular folks. Not sure if our tents were indeed originally intended for that temporary shelter but they look pretty clean and unused. I will have to say that they were a little larger than the small two-people tents I have used before so I was glad for the extra “comfort.”

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The Sukman Memorial Polyclinic, our tents to the right

Staying in the compound was far better than I had been expected. The grounds are well kept, the indoor restroom was a pleasant surprise, and though I only used it one of the 3 days, it was nice to take a shower after a day’s hard work. The compound also had a kitchen and outdoor (covered) seating area so all our meals were there. I tended to wake up very early and enjoyed a cup of tea while soaking in the quiet and sunrise. It was a little cold at night but not frigid. We were a 5-minute walk to the work site (the school grounds) so all-in-all, I was pleased with the setup they had prepared to host us, not having too much time traveling to- and from- the work site so we could maximize time at the site.

A grand Kumari welcome!

When our small caravan was approaching the medical compound, we noticed a lot of people were there waiting for us. The more we walked, the more it seemed the entire district had come to welcome us. We left our stuff in the cars (someone would take care of that) and after an initial greeting which included music, we were taken up a dirt road towards the school grounds which were located above the medical compound.

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Walking from the clinic to the school grounds

As we made the final turn up the dirt road that passes the school grounds, we noticed schoolchildren were lined up waiting for us – loaded with long necklaces made from orange marigolds (like Hawaiian leis). As we walked along the kids, teachers, and others, these “leis” were placed on our necks. They must have spent long days making these (the flowers were all fresh)!! Some of us ended with a heavy yoke of these leis around our necks but it was a very joyful welcome – much appreciated!

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Schoolchildren awaiting us with the marigold necklaces!

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Some of us sporting the massive and heavy leis

After we got to the covered space that had been set up for the welcome ceremony, we took our seats and then all the children and other locals stood behind us. At the end of the ceremony, 3 hours later or so, I was very impressed the locals stayed the entire time, in the sun. There were some local figures present but maybe the draw was the two emcees (MCs) who I take had come from Kathmandu and were well-known. The ceremony entailed many speeches in Nepali or in English as well as some dances/songs by the local kids. I soaked it all in though, at that point, none of us had eaten anything since breakfast and I, for one, was hungry and trying hard not to pull something out of my day pack when so many in the crowd were probably as hungry as I was.

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School administrators, civic organizers, the MCs and the trekkers

Sweat equity

Trekkers like me commit to fundraise $1,000 towards the projects chosen for the specific trek. The projects funded are normally anchored on capital improvements or new infrastructure. In this Nepal trek, the school was the main project our funds would support. I am proud to say that my group of trekkers and I raised over $33,000, much higher than the minimum we each committed to raise (thanks to any of you who donated!). This allowed us to also fund the construction of new indoor restroom facilities at the school, something the children had never had before: one restroom with several stalls for the girls, and the same for the boys. When I go in these treks, I often leave pondering the things I have taken for granted all my life… and I am humbled at the blessings in my life.

Shree Bikash, school, Kumari, Nuwakot, Nepal, construction

Plans for the new school

One of the three days was focused on us pitching in in the construction efforts. Trekking for Kids’ approach is to ensure local labor performs the projects and local materials are used. But trekkers get to get down and dirty lending a hand. In these projects, trekkers got to help both with preparing the foundation for two of the new school buildings as well as with pouring the new roof for the restroom building.

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Foundation trenches completed, next step was to lay rocks at the bottom

I worked in the crew that helped dig the trenches for the school buildings’ foundations and then “harvested” rocks from the debris field from the former school building from the side of the hill and tossed them (via human chain) up to fill the bottom layer of the trenches. While we were happy to help, it was clear the locals who worked on the project and the local teen youth group that was volunteering to help were much more effective and fast than we were… It was certainly an honor to be able to humble ourselves for such a good cause.

Other trekkers helped prep the restroom roof before the concrete was poured by framing the area and cutting and setting up the rebar. At the point the concrete was being mixed and poured, the locals took over. It was interesting to watch their methods!

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Cutting rebar

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Roof being readied for the concrete pouring

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Roof being poured with the sewage tank visible in the lower part of the photo

Finally, our trekkers helped finish the digging of the “sewage tank” that had already been started with the use of mechanical equipment. Hard work indeed!

And just having fun

Working on the projects is something trekkers enjoy doing but trekkers always enjoy the opportunity to be with the kids. The kids made us smile with the great welcome they gave us so I certainly enjoyed giving back in this way to them. We got to be with the kids during school hours and afterwards, including one afternoon dedicated to fun and games that went late. The kids thoroughly enjoyed the mini-carnival games, the arts and crafts, and a good early dinner!

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One of our trekkers, a former teacher, spends time in the classroom

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The kids played games in the afternoon

Kids enjoying an early dinner

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At the end of the day, kids line up for parting gifts!

As for me

The treks themselves, of course, helped keep me challenged and appreciating my own life’s blessings. But, in the end, I would not be doing these treks if it were not for the opportunity to make a difference, however small, in the lives of children around the world. It is faces like these that keep me prioritizing my travel budget and vacation time for doing these treks (at the expense of doing more with my own friends and family), that keep me “pestering” friends and family for donations to fund the projects, and that keep me accepting conditions during my treks that are less than what I’d prefer during my vacations. Take a look, can you blame me?

Check out Trekking for Kids and pass the word about this great organization to others via word of mouth and social media!

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A beautiful Nepali sunset over our camp

Filed Under: Asia, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, construction, earthquake, hike, Himalayas, Kumari, Nepal, Nuwakot, school, service, travel, trek, voluntourism

#TheAfricaTheMediaNeverShowsYou

6 July 2015 by Raul 3 Comments

Recently, the hashtag #TheAfricaTheMediaNeverShowsYou has been trending on Twitter and for good reason. The world’s view of Africa is often a negative one, focused on violence, disease, and poverty. The hashtag was formed to show the world that this is not what Africa is all about, in fact there is so much beauty that is overlooked by the media.

Several bloggers and I decided to join the movement and share what it is that we love about the continent. There are common misconceptions about the way Africa is portrayed in the media, and we’d like to be part of the solution. Our hope is that the world will see that we need to change our view of Africa.

Raul of I Live to Travel (yours truly!)

The news outlets, unfortunately, tend to focus on the sensational, on the negative. Sub-Saharan Africa is mostly portrayed in an unflattering light unless there is a story about safaris perhaps. Wars, AIDS, etc. always get top billing. But there is much more to Africa than the media would have you see. And most of it is actually quite positive. During my work at CARE, I got to visit its work in Tanzania. One of my most enlightening and heart-warming experiences was outside of the town of Mwanza. There I was taken to visit a woman who had been shown how to earn a better livelihood by selling fried fish along a road many went on (mostly on foot or bikes) to get to a market miles away. She and her family lived in a mud brick house with a thatch roof; anytime massive rains came, they risked the house flooding – or worse, washing away as many do. With her increased earnings, she was able to start building a home raised from the ground made with real bricks – providing a safe home for her family. THAT is the Africa I met the first time I went to Tanzania. Go beyond the sellers of “news” and meet the real people of Africa, living their lives with hope and hard work!

Erin of The World Wanderer

No matter what stories I heard in the news, Africa was always a place I knew I would visit. The cultures, diversity, food, people, and wildlife have interested me for years, and when I finally saw the opportunity to travel to the continent in 2012, I took it. As soon as I arrived, I realized how wrong the media was. Every continent and country has their fair share of bad news, but as I have found by traveling, there is always more good than bad; Africa is no different.

When I think of Africa, I think of it as a place full of warm, welcoming smiles and unspoiled, natural beauty. For three weeks, I traveled throughout Southern Africa, not enough time to truly know it or understand the way it works, but it was enough time for me to fall in love. Botswana, in particular, took an immediate hold on my heart; I felt connected to the vast landscapes and kind people. During a few days in the Okavango Delta, we spent time with the locals who we bonded with, especially over the campfire. We shared songs and dances, one of the girls and I made everyone s’mores, and we laughed and joked until the early hours. It was one of those moments, I will never forget. My time in Africa was full of small moments like this, moments that I wish people knew about because if they did, they’d truly understand what the continent is all about.

Francesca of The Working Mom’s Travels

I traveled to Africa by myself at age 31 to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro and go on a Serengeti safari. I was nervous for a few reasons, mainly because I was traveling alone and it was AFRICA. It’s so far and so mysterious and only bad things happen there. At least that’s what I was led to believe by those in my life who thought my traveling there was a bad idea. Little did they know, it was just the motivation I needed to go through with the trip, to prove that Africa is not as awful as mainstream media portray it.

I arrived in a village outside of Moshi, Tanzania, on Christmas Eve, and was to spend the holiday with a local family, along with a group of my American friends (we all traveled there separately). I arrived to a festive scene and happy, laughing kids everywhere. Everyone, including the children, was dressed in their Sunday best: men and boys in suits and dress shoes; women and girls in fancy dresses and extravagant hats. After they returned from Christmas Eve mass, the father and head of the family began cooking up an enormous feast. For a family that seemingly did not have much, they wanted to make sure they shared everything with us. We ate, we danced, and we sang, and it stands as one of the happiest Christmas celebrations I’ve ever been a part of. This family was grateful for what they had and was able to share, and they were joyous. That’s an aspect of Africa we don’t see much of in the media.

Craig of Stay Adventurous

I don’t know one person who traveled to Africa and didn’t come back different. For most it becomes the trip of a lifetime. Today, they don’t speak of Africa in only hardships and poverty, but describe its raw beauty and tell of its energy and what amazed them. Their stories seem endless.

For me, much of my one five-week adventure to Africa is documented on my travel blog. Yes, I showcase sunsets, sand dunes and safari (all expected), but I show more and things I didn’t expect. Things I certainly don’t hear people who haven’t traveled to Africa and or the media discussing today.

Many of such memories happened in Namibia. One morning a few of us set out to explore Walvis Bay, along Namibia’s Atlantic coastline. Watching seals, dolphins, and taking a look at a shipwreck were part of the itinerary, but so was tasting the local oysters. Delicious. Fresh. Oysters.

I never thought I’d be on a boat in a bay in Africa eating oysters one day. Well, is that something you see in today’s coverage of Africa?

Gerard and Kieu of GQ Trippin

Kenya has made its way into the media more recently for terrorist attacks which, unfortunately, has negatively impacted its tourism, but we didn’t let this deter us from coming here on our honeymoon. During our time in the small town of Nakuru, we visited the East African Mission Orphanage and was immediately rushed by excited kids eager to meet us. Apparently, they don’t get visitors often, maybe once a month at times longer during the slow seasons. Here, the children learn to grow their own vegetables and spend a good amount of their day in class getting a proper education. It brought a smile to our faces to learn most aspire to attend a university and finish school to pursue careers like becoming a teacher or an engineer. Here at EAMO, we weren’t pushed to give a donation, a surprisingly different experience than we’d thought. Instead, we truly felt it was our presence that was most welcomed and wanted… and our gadgets — the kids couldn’t get enough playing with our cameras & phones, they asked to see pictures of our home or of really anything that was beyond the gated community they call home. It both warmed and broke our hearts, not going to lie. There are good things happening here, we wish more people knew about it.

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If you’ve been to Africa, we ask that you join us in spreading the good. Create your own post, share photos on Twitter and Instagram, and shed some positive light on this beautiful place. Let’s show the world what Africa is really all about, let’s show them #TheAfricaTheMediaNeverShowsYou

If you want to read more about my visits to Africa (sub-Saharan or not), just click above on the menu item “Africa”! Hope you enjoy my stories about climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, visiting an incredible coastal town in Morocco, seeing post-apartheid Johannesburg, and other stories!

Filed Under: Africa, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Africa, people, real Africa, support Africa, Tanzania, travel, travel bloggers

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 4 from Palas del Rei to Boente

23 November 2014 by Raul 12 Comments

After a great dinner in Palas del Rei and a nice comfortable stay overnight, we left the town on Day 4 to head to Boente, a tiny town and our next overnight. On this day, I would walk 21 km (about 13 miles) in around 5 hours to get to my destination. But we would first make a stop in Mélide to try its famous “pulpo” (octopus). Now, I am not a fan of octopus and similar ugly sea creatures but I had heard about how good the pulpo was in this part of Spain so we took off from Palas del Rei knowing lunch would be in the town of Mélide – I had to try it, I mean, I didn’t come this far to not try the local specialty!

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, we had to have a mid-morning snack (even though the breakfast at the hotel in Palas del Rei was pretty darn good!).

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The pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant) along the Camino is huge!

After eating that monster (OK, I shared…), I had too much energy as my trek roommate, Emory, could attest…

As usual, the path is well marked and consists of a wide range of trail types, some more natural than others.

It is always amazing how there is a symbiosis between the age-old trails and the farms or villages the trails go through. Sometimes you feel bad you are walking right by people’s homes but, it is likely that the trail was there first…

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The scenery can be quite charming!

One of my favorite parts of the walk is running into the old churches in the small towns along the way. I am not sure how active these churches are (I am sure they don’t all have their own priest) but they serve as witnesses to the needs of the pilgrims back when the Camino was truly a journey of faith, not just a modern-day trek.

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One of several churches we passed this day

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Another church on our way

One of the good things about the Camino is the availability of clean, safe water to drink so you don’t have to be buying bottled water or treating water. I filled my bottles at the places I stayed but you can also do refills along the way in any of the public fountains available to the trekkers.

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Water fountain along the trail

Now before I get to the “pulpo”, I have to say I enjoyed the chorizo small plate more than the pulpo. The place we ate at was across a small church along the main street in Mélide. It had long picnic-like tables and a nice mix of locals and pilgrims!

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Chorizo al vino in Mélide

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The guy at the “kitchen” (right by the front door) preparing the pulpo!

Oh, and I have not told you about one of my favorite discoveries along the Camino: the delicious tarta de Santiago (a dense almond cake, sort of)!! Yum. #period

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Tarta de Santiago

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Leaving Mélide after a nice lunch of chorizo, pulpo, bread – and some wine…

The walk that day was long and, as we approached Boente, we could not wait to arrive at our “albergue”. You could say this was the day we stayed at the “least” of our accommodations (not being a hotel or house) but it was perfect. We had reserved two private rooms to share across the 8 of us and it was perfect as we did not have to fight with individual trekkers to get a bunk bed, etc. The albergue was more than adequate and clean, and the dinner they served was delicious. At this point in my life, I don’t want to do a trek where I have to wonder if I will find a spot to sleep on a given town, or whether the one I will find will be not right by the toilet so booking ahead is the way I trek.

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The awesome Albergue Boente!

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The Igrexa Santiago de Boente (right across the albergue)

After a stroll around town and dinner, it was time to end Day 4 and rest for Day 5!

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Travel Inspiring Reads – Or Is It??

20 May 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

My book for this installment of “Travel Inspiring Reads” may seem to actually be the opposite. It is called “The World’s Most Dangerous Places.” But, oh, did it made me want to see those places! This book certainly made the adrenaline rush within me just by going through it. I liked how it classified danger by different vectors, like crime or just being a “forbidden” place.

What’s funny is that I read this book in its 1997 version and, looking back, some of the levels of danger in the places cited have abated whereas others not discussed have likely become “dangerous.” For example, Myanmar was classified as forbidden but very recently that has changed. Other places remain in the right category; again, in the forbidden grouping lies Iran, Iraq, Cuba, and North Korea.

One of my favorite writeups in the book is Albania. Classified under the forbidden group (something which no longer seems to be applicable), it is presented as a place that is “oil and water” with the mix of the Albanian majority with a small separatist Greek minority. More interestingly, he says has “nasty” neighbors in Serbia and Greece. Maybe the former made sense in 1997 but I never would have thought Greece would be a nasty neighbor (Turkey aside, perhaps?). Apparently, at the time the book was written, there was some unrest from a small group of ethnic Greeks. Either it has subsided or it is just not covered in the news we get through major news outlets (who are likely talking more about some dumb starlet or bad boy athlete than real news… soapbox!).

In terms of pure danger, some of the places the book called out were and remain dangerous. Afghanistan, Somalia and Sudan to name a few. But mercifully, I can re-read this book years later and be thankful that places like Cambodia, Peru, Colombia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and The Philippines have become safer and great places to explore and visit while feeling safe (or as safe as one can be anywhere).

I also enjoyed the book’s self-awareness as it identifies its key weakness: the moment it is published, it is already out-of-date. Cleverly, it points out “coming attractions,” or those places likely to appear in the book in the future. Some of the places called out were called out correctly as things turned out, others did not (at least, not yet). On the former: Mali and Zimbabwe have become messy places indeed. On the latter: the Basque country has not exploded but instead remained fairly calm; Bangladesh has not fallen to civil war; China did not break up after Deng Xiaoping died; and Panama did not get re-taken by the Noriega crews nor became a mess after the Canal turned over in 1999.

I should seek out the latest version of the book and see what places feature prominently as dangerous. And see if the adrenaline kicks in like when I first read it so many years ago!

Filed Under: Travel Reads Tagged With: adventure, Albania, crime, dangerous places, forbidden, good reads, travel book

Travel Inspiring Reads – In the Empire of Genghis Khan

3 April 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

Stanley Stewart shares with us in his book about his travel through the lands of Genghis Khan. Even before he gets to Mongolia, you get to enjoy his anecdotes from traversing what is to me an obscure corner of our planet: Central Asia. And, I may add, a part of the world I am dying to explore myself, inspired partly by another book I reviewed earlier: The Alluring Target.

Stanley, or “Stalin” which was the closest some people could get to his name, shares about his journey which started in Istanbul, crossing the Black Sea on a ship where he met some interesting characters. Two of those characters in this ship, which was no cruise liner, Anna and Olga, were described as a “dramatic illustration of the way that Slavic women seem unable to find any middle ground between slim grace and stout coarseness.” And this will be the freedom that he uses along the book to describe his experiences and the sights. His observations are funny and truly helped me picture the scenes.

He hits Sevastopol, recently in the news to the Russian invasion of the Crimea, and eventually trains his way across parts of Russia eventually exiting it at Kazakhstan. Perhaps Russia invaded the Crimea this year to get Sevastopol because, as he explains, back in Soviet times, Russians from Moscow would go down there “just to look at the vegetables.” LOL, Putin just needs some fiber! He also finds -and shares with us- wisdom he gets from a Russian: “In Russia, everything takes time. We have a saying: ‘The first 500 years are always the worst.’ ” Good news: no dictator lasts even a fifth of that, right?!

In any case, the author keeps moving east and begins talking more about the focus of this epic journey: Genghis Khan. He explains how Genghis could not respect towns as he was a nomad from the steppes, who viewed townsfolk with pity, from “a position of cultural and moral superiority” while viewing settled farmers as nothing more than a “flock of sheep.” The freedom of the nomadic life was highly valued. Therefore, destroying these settled peoples did not trouble good ole Genghis. Mongols were seen at the footsteps of Vienna but like the Ottomans later, they did not make it there. No, it wasn’t a Polish king that saved Vienna from the Mongols (like from the Ottomans) but it was an odd thing that kept them out: the Khan of those days died; and all the Mongols had to haul back to the capital to be part of the election of the next Khan. So just like that… poof! … they left and Europe was spared further destruction.

One of the reasons I enjoyed this book so much is this mixing of the observations of a traveler with the historical info, all giving me enjoyable insights into this part of the world. For example, he describes Bishkek, the not-well-known capital of not-well-known Kirghizstan as a “sweet provincial place of tree-lined streets” – it only makes me want to see this place along the Silk Road with my own two eyes.

In another part of the adventure, he describes visiting a highly isolated monastery of only two monks who seemed to have barely escaped the 11th century… and stayed at the 12th century. Further on, he describes flying into Mongolia since there was no land route with an open border in that corner where Russia, Kazakhstan and Mongolia meet. The plane was from a company with only one commercial flight that was clearly not regulated by any aviation authority. No, no, it was not Aeroflot. He lands in the town of Olgii which proves to him that “Mongolians are not very good at towns.” He elaborates that it had “an apocalyptic air,” a town “built by people who hate towns.” Good stuff!

Through his time with his Mongolian guides, he learns about the Mongolian worldview. Choice stuff. Like: “We hate the Chinese… And the Chinese hate us right back.” Stanley points out that no better evidence of the latter than the Great Wall itself, to keep the barbarians out: “To the Chinese, the Mongols are the neighbors from hell.” I am not sure about that. Let’s ask the Tibetans, shall we? Another great nugget into this relationship is the Chinese saying he shares: “When Mongolians party, the rest of Asia locks its doors.” So the Mongolians, it would seem, would belong in the SEC if they had a college football team.

And the insights into how Mongolians live are aplenty. For example, we read about the wrestling competition where the jackets worn by the wrestlers have long sleeves but are open in the front. That’s to be sure no women wrestlers pretend to be men. You see, he explains, women wrestlers are well feared in Outer Mongolia and, this way, they keep men wrestlers from getting hurt… Another insight is why jeeps tend to have no door handles on the left hand side of the vehicle: jeeps, like horses, should only be mounted from the right hand side. A final insight I will share here is how nothing “horrifies Mongolians quite like the admission that foreigners, like animals, regularly consume raw leaves.” Horrifies me too.

Now, I am NOT going to take that crazy flight into Mongolia by a local airline with one plane… Nor am I looking to spending weeks on horseback, much as his crazy horses sound like a barrel of laughs… But I have to say that the anecdotes, the observations, and the facts shared make me wish I’d been right along him -not all the time- in this journey and feed my hunger to meet Central Asia some day!

Filed Under: Asia, Travel Reads Tagged With: adventure, book, central asia, good read, Kazakhstan, memoirs, Mongolia, travel

Travel and Adventure Show: A Great Way to Explore Destinations

5 March 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

These days, there are so many ways to learn about places to travel in the U.S. and abroad. A Google search away you can find a treasure trove of sites (like this one!) with topics from “top X fill-in-the-blank” to “Y on a budget” to tourist boards’ plethora of information about any given destination. You can also get your question answered on any given platform, for example, by just tweeting your question and hoping the tweet-o-sphere responds back.

On the more “analog” side of things, the options may be more limited but if you are lucky to live in a number of cities in the U.S. (or be able to get to one of them, like I do), the Travel and Adventure shows (which take place in cities like D.C., L.A., Chicago, Dallas and others) are a fun and efficient way to “visit” destinations all in one day (keep up with them at @TravAdventure). These shows pull in a large number of information and service providers in the arena of travel and adventure, making it easier to scan a larger number of destinations, asking questions from a live human being, and even listen to some famous travelers share their story (including many TV travel show hosts). In addition, these shows often have some of the fun things you could experience in travel right there for the visitor to try out.

The larger space for the guest speakers

Doing the show

I have been to three of these shows in the last two years and I always enjoy the energy of the people who come to the shows. I do get there early as it is easier to talk to some of the folks with a booth. I try to pick an aisle of top interest to me and then start there while the crowds are making their way in.

Nicaragua’s tourism folks providing information

I am not a big fan of listening to celebrities myself but there are plenty of those to listen to (and some are quite good!) – and the bigger the name, the earlier you want to grab a seat so you can be there up close.

Also, if you decide to partake in the activities by trying out scuba diving or climbing a rock wall, the earlier you get there, the shorter the line!

Scuba diving practice

I normally spend a few hours there which brings me to the topic of food. It feels like the options are finally growing but it is relatively expensive so, if you are on a budget or just rather save the money for that trip, pack a protein bar or something else and save money that way. The show itself costs little for the amount of value and, yes, entertainment it provides.

Value to travelers and presenters

I spoke with some presenters and participants about what value they derive from the show. Some presenters are from very specific destinations, like counties, while others represent an entire continent, like Africa. Some presenters are tour providers, lodging providers, or tourism boards. The variety makes it appealing and valuable regardless of what you are contemplating doing. In my recent visit to the DC Travel and Adventure show, I learned that Pennsylvania has a canyon and great trails in Tiago County, up in the northern part of the state. I also learned about Duchess County and the Hudson River Valley in New York – an amazing depth of history, nature, architecture, and even food and wine (including the oldest winery in the U.S.). I go to the show open to talk to many of the presenters to see what I may discover. It doesn’t disappoint.

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A sloth at the show (courtesy of Busch Gardens)

That was a sentiment other visitors expressed. Kimberly Robson, of Washington, D.C. told me how five years ago she went to the show looking for inspiration for adventure travel. She found it in the form of a non-profit organization that puts together treks around the world to help orphaned children. She was not quite envisioning that type of service opportunity but the show gave her the opportunity to learn about this organization with which by now she has trekked three times to Guatemala, Thailand, and Romania.

From the presenters’ standpoint, the value seems to be generating awareness which, fortunately for both, mirrors the objective of the visitors. From sharing about a lesser known county in a neighboring state to providing more depth of awareness into a more well-known destination, the presenters aim to broaden the network of potential visitors or “leads.”

The DC Travel and Adventure show has been running now for 10 years and the company is expanding into new markets like Philadelphia. I can’t wait for the day they decide to open the doors for the South to dream and explore about travel and adventure by doing a show in my hometown of Atlanta!

Filed Under: Travel Stories Tagged With: adventure, consumer show, travel, Washington D.C.

Travel Inspiring Reads – “Dark Star Safari”

17 February 2014 by Raul Leave a Comment

“Dark Star Safari – Overland from Cairo to Cape Town” presents the story of Paul Theroux’ overland crossing of Africa, quite the safari! (“Safari” means journey in Swahili.)

I enjoyed this book because it presented interesting topics:

Thought-provoking questions
Rich descriptions of places
Horror stories
Good history nuggets
Ideas for off-the-beaten-path places to visit.

Let’s go through these briefly…

Thought-provoking questions

While a book about travel, certainly part of travel is gaining an understanding of the local situation (at least for me). The author helps the reader gain an understanding of the current state and what makes it difficult for Africa to break bad cycles. For example, he points out how education in some of the countries suffers because those that have education and could be teachers are pulled by foreign NGOs for other activities (though I think he misses the point that often what those people go do is to try to help while also further developing capacity in these would-be teachers). He also discusses with people he meets the issues introduced by corruption and mis-management without writing a dissertation about it.

One thing that was unfortunate is that the author seemed interested in putting down NGOs (“the agents of virtue in white Land-Rovers”) wherever he could which is unfortunate since many do very good work on behalf of those in need (even if not all are perfect; many have learned and evolved their approaches). It is unfortunate in my opinion since it gives the impression that he has a chip on his shoulder and, as a reader, that diminishes my appreciation for his critical thinking (though it does not impact my appreciation of his writing effort). Also, I would worry that readers unfamiliar with the questions and topics involved may just take his word for it.

Rich descriptions of places

The rich descriptions he captures of what he sees make you want to explore the places he visits. For example, this is his description of Bayna l-Qasrayn, a street in Cairo:

“Perhaps the oldest inhabited street in the high-density city of Cairo, one thousand years of donkey droppings, hawkers’ wagons, barrow boys, veiled women, jostling camels, hand-holding men, and hubble-bubble smoker, among mosques and princes’ palaces, and a bazaar with shops selling trinket, brass pots and sack of beans…”

I also enjoyed relating to some of his observations, not dissimilar to my own. For example, in many hotels in Egypt there are metal detectors. I often wondered what were they really good for should someone just decide to park a truck full of explosives in front of a hotel. He is much more eloquent than me as he shares his observations on security while in Aswan:

“There were metal detectors at the entrances to most buildings though they were seldom used and seemed more symbolic than practical… Certainly the electricity supply was unreliable and there seemed to be a labor shortage. The armed men, with assault rifles slung at their sides, meant to reassure the tourists simply looked sinister and added to the atmosphere of menace.”

Horror stories

His description of travel through southern Ethiopia and Kenya to Nairobi is filled with frustrating anecdotes and mis-adventures. Unhelpful government people, bad roads, vehicle breakdowns, touts and thieves, etc. all color this part of trip. You suffer with him and then remember to be happy you are not him. Good reading though!

Good history nuggets

The book also included great nuggets of history which certainly pleased this fan of history. It informed me about Italy’s horrible choices when it came to Ethiopia since the late 19^th century – a story I had never heard about. In 1896, the Ethiopians trounced 20,000 invaders from the Italian army at Adwa (a place I had never heard of). Those poor young men, sent there by crazy leadership ill-equipped, for no good reason, to die or otherwise suffer. Unfortunately, all these created resentment that the Fascists in the 1930s wanted to act on. So off they went (with poison gas and all) to invade Ethiopia whose fighters were still using the same weapons from the 1896 era… (Don’t mean to pick on Italy, by the way… History is loaded with ugly decisions by many!)

Ideas for off-the-beaten places to visit

The book introduces a reader like me to places I had never ever heard of but that I may enjoy visiting. For example, his inclusion of Lalibela in Ethiopia where there are twelfth century Coptic churches carved into the mountains adds to my already-existing desire to explore Ethiopia!

Favorite quote

One of the pieces of wisdom he heard in north Sudan during this safari struck me as universally true and is my favorite quote of the book:

“The criterion is how you treat the weak. The measure of civilized behavior is compassion.” – Sadig el Mahdi

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While the author can come across a little self-absorbed or sanctimonious, the story of his crossing Africa overland is gripping and well-written, sharing a lot more than just a narrative of adventures and mis-adventures. I wish I could do that trip… Maybe.