Berlin - ilivetotravel's travel log

Many times I write about my exploring right after I return home, when the memories are fresh and I first go through all the photos I took during my trip. Today, I thought I’d re-visit my days in Berlin less than a couple of years ago.

Reichstag Building, Dach, Berlin, Bundestag, rooftop view of Berlin, Alemania, Germany — From the rooftop terrace of the Reichstag Building

The capital of reunited Germany is laden with history and symbolism. I think it always has been. It is a peculiar place simply because of all the volumes of history written in its streets, buildings and fields.

All that provides someone visiting the city with many items to add to a list of must-sees. Here, I will share the places I enjoyed the most in Berlin. Maybe they will end up in your list of what to see in Berlin! I will start with the museums and move on to other places…

The many museums in Berlin’s Museum Island

Museum Island is a treasure trove of important museums. The Pergamon Museum, the Neues Museum, the Altes Museum, the National Gallery, and the Bode Museum are some of the museum options that will -I am sure- wear out even the most museum-addicted visitor.

berlin, museum island, bode museum, derliner dom, pergamon museum — Berliner Dom on the right, Bode Museum on the left, and the rest in the middle!

With museums, having a plan is key as covering all the works on display is about impossible with large museums or in an area with so many of them. I did not have enough days in Berlin to explore all of these (save the Pergamon Museum) so I can’t attest to their “visit worthiness”. However, the Neues Museum has the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti, an item I wished I had seen in person since I have visited the tomb where it was found in Egypt …

Of course, there are many other museums in town beyond Museum Island so, keep exploring! (Keep reading for a later entry in this post about a Berlin Wall museum…)

A museum of greatness: Pergamon

The Pergamon Museum stands out due to the grandeur of the building and some of the contents (like the Ishtar Gate and other grand remnants of historic places from antiquity. The museum was established before World War I and, thankfully, its art and objects were safeguarded so they survived the destruction brought to the city by World War II. The Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate, the Miletus Market and the large collection of Assyrian statues/busts were some of my favorite things to see firsthand. It is a big museum and could consume a long time so plan properly. For my tips for a well-done visit, check my earlier post about the Pergamon Museum.

Post-World War II history museum

The Allied Museum in the “suburb” of Dahlem (in what used to be West Berlin) caught my eye and I made an easy trip on the U-Bahn to get to see it but, rookie mistake, I did not check opening schedule and it was closed that day. From the outside, I did get to see some of the large items placed outdoors from across the fence and it really made me regret not checking the schedule first!

Allied Museum in Berlin, checkpoint charlie, berlin, old airplane

I did walk around the residential streets of Dahlem and it was cool to see a very different type of neighborhood than most European cities have. I almost felt I was back in the U.S. (though there was still differences). I am not sure if the history of the area is that these homes were built during the American occupation of the area post-World War II, or if they pre-date those times. I knew of the area as a good friend was born there while his father was stationed in Germany in the early 1970s so that gave me context for the area and explains why the Allied Museum as well as a U.S. consulate office are located there vs. closer in to the heart of Berlin.

Dahlem, occupied zone, Berlin, Germany — A house in Dahlem

The DDR Museum – throwback to the Cold War

On the slight whimsical side, yet filled with interesting info and artifacts, is the DDR Museum right next to Museum Island. It takes one back to how life in Communist East Germany was and has great imagery (physical and digital) to do that. If you were born after the fall of the Iron Curtain (1989), this may be a curiosity but to those who remember the Cold War, it may be a more vivid reminder of those times that now seem like ancient history, almost surreal!

Great rooftop views of Berlin – and great food!

The Bundestag, Germany’s federal parliament, is housed since 1999 in what has to be one of my favorite buildings in the city: the Reichstag Building. It was built in the latter part of the 19th century and fell into disuse after a fire in the 1930s and the effects of World War II. It never functioned again as a diet or parliament until well after German reunification in the 1990s.

Its modernistic dome is fun to climb via the long ramps and it will offer great photo opportunities of the outdoor and the indoor (if you look straight down inside, you are looking at the chamber where the politicians meet).

what to see in Berlin, Reichstag Building, Bundestag, dome in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The unique dome and its ramps

The rooftop terrace provides great views of the city.

SPree River, Berlin, Germany — The Spree River

German Chancellery, Bundeskanzleramt, Berlin, German government, Germany — The German Chancellery

But, being a bit of a foodie, my favorite part of the Reichstag Building was its rooftop restaurant (Dachgarten Restaurant) named Käfer. Its breakfast offerings are delicious. I hear that it is also a great place to go before sunset to enjoy the views with the sunset colors of the sky.

Tips to visit the Bundestag’s rooftop restaurant, Käfer

You need to make reservations to be able to go (on the link provided above, scroll down to get the reservation form). The exact info on every visitor will need to be provided when making the reservation for security measures. Upon arrival, allow extra time ahead of the reservation time to go through security where you will need to provide valid photo ID (I suggest your passport).

Bundestag, Reichstag Building, entrance for visitors to the Bundestag, Berlin, Alemania, Germany — Secured entrance for visitors facing the Tiergarten

Walking Berlin’s unique neighborhoods

I was lucky that one of my Godchildren lives in Berlin and besides spending time together, he showed me very unique neighborhoods that perhaps as a tourist, I may have never gotten to explore. If you have the time and don’t mind meandering, I highly recommend walking around these neighborhoods, mostly in the former East Berlin. Some areas to consider exploring: Alexanderplatz, Prenzlauerberg, and Kreuzberg.

I was told and I could tell that the areas of the former East Berlin have a slightly different feel than those of the former West. The difference may be blurring some but it is detectable and feeds the curiosity of those of us who never saw the city before reunification as to how things must have been…

Eatery in the former East Berlin, Berlin bar

Badfish Bar, Prenzlauerberg, East Berlin, Berlin best bar — I loved Badfish Bar!!

Berlin’s Cathedral

Compared to many other German European cathedrals, Berlin Cathedral’s (Berliner Dom) interior did not really do anything for me (though it still had some splendor).

However, its exterior is impressive and going up to the dome for the views may be cool to do if you are into that (I am!). There are other churches around town so if you like to check them out, I’d say go for it. My limited time in town, unfortunately, prevented more exploring. But Berlin has so many unique things other cities don’t have that I don’t regret my prioritization!

Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church

OK, I know I said I did not get to explore churches. But this one is different. Not much of the church remains and that is the point. It was not an old church to begin with. But, after it suffered destruction during the war, it was decided not to re-build it so it could serve as a reminder of the hard times Berlin has known and the horrors of war. It is well worth the visit though and, along the way, explore this more modern and commercial area of Berlin.

Kaiser Wilhelm Church, ruins in Berlin, memorials in Berlin, Berliner kirche, what to see in Berlin

Eating at KdW!

Oh, and while around there, do NOT miss “KdW“! Kaufhaus des Westens is a large department store à la Galeries Lafayette in Paris.

Not much of a shopper here but exploring its marzipan and chocolate section was a walk through paradise. And then do not miss eating one of the Berliner Currywurst in one of the food counters in one of the top floors!!!

KdW, Berlin department store, Berliner currywurst, famous Berlin hot dog, German dishes — Currywurst with fries and a beer at KdW!

The Brandenburg Gate

Of course, you were waiting for me to talk about this (and the next item), weren’t you? Well, yes, of course I have to list it in this post. The iconic Brandenburg Gate is a must for a photo (selfie or not!). It is located near important embassies and across one end of the Tiergarten Park. The gate dates from the late 18th century and is in a location where there used to be another gate in the past. It is monumental and impressive! The Berlin Wall used to go right in front of it (remember Reagan’s speech telling Gorbie to “tear down that wall”?) as the gate was in East Berlin.

Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten, tear down that wall, monuments in Berlin, what to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania

Remnants of the Berlin Wall

For many of us, likely, nothing evokes Berlin as the Berlin Wall that lived almost 30 years in the midst of this great city, dividing its people and its essence.

The history of the boundary between East and West Berlin is fascinating once you read up on it. Having lived in the era of the wall, I thought generally there had always been a hard barrier between the two halves of the city once the post-WWII period began.

Well, actually, that was not the case in the immediate years of the post-WWII period. People could cross through between the two parts of Berlin. It was not until the living standard of West Berliners started surpassing that of the East Berliners that the Communist regime had to erect a barrier to prevent people voting with their feet (since they had no free elections for their leaders…). Also, wanting to isolate and demoralize the Westerners also played part, I assume.

In any case, there are some remnants of the wall still standing (thankfully) such as the pieces in the large Postdamer Platz, right next to where I stayed during my visit. It is well-signed including photos of how the area looked while the city was divided, and a good spot for photos.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin Ritz Carlton, Berlin Wall today, Berlin Mauer, muro de Berlin hoy — The Berlin Wall remnants at Potsdamer Platz

Even more fascinating for me are the places where the wall used to be is marked on the pavement or sidewalks of the city. This trail makes the past reality a little more vivid as you can feel the seeming randomness of the wall’s route. It also is puzzling as you see of all sudden the trail go into a new-ish building’s wall and wonder how the space was before the building was built. I loved running into this trail as I meandered around town!

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin — The 2-brick wide trail in the middle of the street marks where the wall was

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin, Brandenburg Gate — Find the trail looking towards the Brandenburg Gate from the Reichstag

Topography of Terror and the Wall

A very large portion of the wall is still in place by the Topography of Terror Museum. You can walk along it and read about the times… The museum itself has a LOT of information of the terrible events brought about by the Nazis in the many “boards” with plenty of photos. I think it was well-done but the topic is definitely overwhelming…

Berlin Wall remnants, Berliner Mauer, muro de Berlin, Alemania, Germany, Topography of Terror

Checkpoint Charlie is nearby. Go for it… #underwhelming

Memorial to the Murdered Jews

This large memorial between the Brandenburg Gate and Postdamer Platz deserves some time. I did not get to see the indoor exhibit due to the time of my visit but the outdoor place certainly made feel sad. Whoever had the inspiration for this very unique memorial’s design nailed it. It was really off-putting to see folks climbing on the pieces and posing for funny photos as if they were in a regular park. Of course, I don’t have an issue with photos but certainly expect some respect given the reason this memorial was needed… #neveragain

Memorial to Murdered Jews, Jewish memorial in Berlin, monumento a los judios, Berlin, Germany, post world war ii berlin

A non-site: Hitler’s bunker

Hitler’s underground bunker, as you may know, is where he and some of his minions lost their lives by their own hands or others’. The bunker was destroyed in the Communist period, I imagine, to prevent any crazies from ever making it a memorial, even if just in their mind.

Today, we do know where the bunker was (curiously, not far from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews) and there is a residential building and its yard built on the spot. A small, non-descript sign on the sidewalk gives some information. One cannot really memorialize such a place but, from a historical standpoint, I certainly wanted to see what the area looked like today. (The residential building is on Wilhelmstrasse.)

Hitler's bunker today, where Hitler died, World War II Berlin, places to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The site today

This post does not Berlin justice. There is so much more to see and do that I can cover.

But, I hope, it gives you some interesting new places to consider while including some well-known ones. Berlin is a never-ending exploration!

Berlin is loaded with history, be it from before Germany itself existed as a political entity, to the times of the “kaisers”, to two World Wars, to the Cold War, and to current times. The collection of history can be found all over: in churches, buildings, monuments. But also within the walls of the many museums the city hosts. The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is one of the preeminent museums of the city – and of Germany. Before I share my list of Pergamon Museum tips, some background on the museum first…

Check out my favorite spots in Berlin

What is the Pergamon Museum about?

Pergamonmuseum, as it is called in German, covers some of antiquity’s most fascinating history from the Fertile Crescent and adjacent areas. Think Mesopotamia, Babylon, the Assyrians, etc. It also goes into older but not ancient history in the Middle East. For example, the various dynasties that arose after the founding of Islam. And then into Islamic art as it manifests itself through time and geographies, such as the Muslim era in Spain.

It is a broad range of topics and many may or may not sound familiar. However, items like the Ishtar Gate and the Market Gate of Miletus are imposing and impressive and likely known to some. (Ishtar may sound familiar because it was the name of one of the worst movies ever with Dustin Hoffman and Warren Beatty…).

The Ishtar Gate was one of the many gates in ancient Babylon and dates from about the 6th century B.C. Amazing, huh??

What is THE most famous piece in the museum?

However, the most important piece exhibited is the Pergamon Altar. The Pergamon Altar was not given that name because of the museum but, actually, the reverse. The reconstructed altar exhibited in the museum was from the ancient Greek town of Pergamon in what is now Turkey. German archaeologists uncovered it and brought its ruins to Germany in the late 19th century to reconstruct it.

Sadly, the wing where the Pergamon Altar is housed is undergoing major renovations and I could not see this grand piece (bummer!). The altar will re-open for visitors in 2019 or 2020 after about a 5-year closure. It better be a grand wing after a 5-year project!

Gate Miletus, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Market Gate of Miletus (as much as could fit!)

Assyrian Palace, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Reconstruction of Assyrian Palace. Here, a Lamassu (human headed bull)

How long has the museum been around?

Its current building dates from 1930 but the original museum was first established in that location, on Berlin’s Museum Island, since 1909.

Berlin Museum Island, Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, where is the Pergamon Museum, Germany — Pergamonmuseum is on the top of the map

Is all the stuff exhibited real??

It is worth noting that not every item is original. Some of the items have been re-assembled like complicated jigsaw puzzles from antiquity. It was not always possible to find every piece to these archaeological puzzles. So, either the spots were left “blank” or were filled in with material reproducing what was likely in the spot.

Unbeknownst to me, some of the items are just replicas made from molds cast on the original pieces which may sit in another museum elsewhere around the world. Despite all this, the pieces shown, large and small, help one understand the forms, shapes, colors and motifs that were representative of the different periods.

roof Alhambra, Granada, Islamic art, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Roof from the Alhambra in Granada – great Islamic art

All the exhibits are properly signed in German and English with very minor exceptions which are usually tags for small objects here and there. Most of it will be explained in one of those aforementioned languages!

How long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum?

Let me start by noting that at any given time part of the museum may be closed for restoration or renovations, as I shared earlier. The museum is currently also being expanded to better flow through its wings. This means the ancient Greek exhibits are also offline.

So, back to the question: how long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum? Of course, some of that depends on whether you are just a walker looking at things as you move or whether you stop to contemplate. Also, how much of the larger explanatory panels you stop to read (which I highly recommend – otherwise, seeing old objects will not be of much meaning…). It took me about 2.5-3 hours to see what was available to me.

Aleppo room, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum tip, Berlin museums, ancient art — Aleppo house room from 1600s, thankfully saved from the destruction going on in that Syrian city

Pergamon Museum Tip #1: take your time and breaks

It was easy to move through the museum as it was not like a maze. The two open floors had a flow to them which facilitated staying on course. It was also a welcomed feature that there were places to sit all over!

Pergamon Museum Tip #2: make a stop at the restroom BEFORE you enter the exhibits

One unfortunate feature of the museum is that the ONLY restrooms (at least in the wings that were open when I went…) are located on the lobby of the museum when you enter the building, by the lockers. The restrooms are located OUTSIDE the area where they scan your ticket to access the exhibits. I suppose you can exit and re-enter the museum but you would have to backtrack down to the ground floor (no exhibits are located on the ground floor). Most inconvenient and not visitor-friendly at all…

Pergamon Museum Tip #3: combine visits when you go

Berlin’s Museum Island, where the Pergamonmuseum is located right off Unter den Linden, a main thoroughfare in Berlin. It is right by the Berliner Dom (Berlin’s Cathedral) and next to at least three other museums on the island (the Bode Art Museum, the Altes Museum, and the Neues Museum).

The DDR Museum, showcasing how life was in East Germany (the Communist one), is also nearby. While my tolerance for time in museums is likely capped at 4-5 hours for a given day, I suggest coupling the Pergamon with the lighter DDR Museum. The DDR Museum may take about 1.5-2 hours tops. Or couple the Pergamon visit with a visit to the Berliner Dom.

Pergamon Museum Tip #4: avoid crowds

OK, this tip is not rocket science… Currently, the museum is open 7 days a week from 10 AM until 6 PM, except Thursdays when it stays open until 8 PM. However, it is a very popular attraction so to lessen the size of the crowd around you, go when it opens (there will be a crowd at any time but maybe a little less).

Pergamon Museum Tip #5: avoid the line to get in

Who loves standing on long lines? Yep, silence… I thought so! As with many places these days, one can buy tickets online, thereby saving a long line to buy the tickets. Also, when one gets the tickets online, one reserves a 30-min arrival time slot to get in. When I arrived, I pretty much strolled right up to the entry guards. As you can see in the photo below, there was a long and slow line of folks waiting to get their ticket – on a very hot day (there was shade at least where they were standing).

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, pergamon museum tip — See how long the line is? The sign tells you where to go if you already have your ticket

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, tips for pergamon museum — To the left, the line. To the right, the clear path to get in!

Pergamon Museum Tip #6: get the audioguide

The ticket I bought online cost me 12 euros. This ticket included getting the audioguide, that most necessary of tools to make a museum visit more educational. Key rooms and artifacts have numbers that one punches in on the audioguide. The explanations on average are 2-3 minutes long. Short enough to not bore, and long enough to sit on a bench and rest the feet from all the walking (I had walked TONS around town the days I was there and my feet were achy!).

Clearly, I highly recommend a couple of hours in this museum to anyone curious or fascinated by art, history, archaeology, and such things! More info on the museum can be found here.

Have you visited the Pergamon? What was your favorite item? Other museums in Berlin you like? Share by leaving a comment!

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