The Ottoman Ruler’s Residence: Topkapı Palace

Topkapı Palace sits at the entrance to the Golden Horn, an inlet of water that splits the European side of Istanbul.  It is located quite close to the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.  It was the Ottoman ruler’s humble abode for part of the time they ruled the empire (the rulers eventually moved to a different type of palace of a more European style further up the Bosphorus).  This palace is where the Empire was managed from – an empire that at peak included, more or less, Southeast Europe, Western Asia, part of North Africa, and the Horn of Africa.  A Muslim empire that was quite tolerant of other religions.  And an empire feared in Christian Europe.  Eventually the empire disintegrated over a period of a few decades finally ending its life after World War I.

The palace is strategically situated high on a promontory on the tip of Istanbul (Seraglio Point) west of the Golden Horn which affords great views of the Karakoy/Galata area, the Bosphorus and the Asian side of the city.  It consists of many buildings and gardens so it was not a massive building as were more European-style palaces like Versailles or El Escorial.  The most important buildings sit up high with the rest of the complex working its way down to the shores of the Bosphorus where the complex is walled with some parts of the walls going all the way back to what was then the acropolis of Byzantium.

An interesting part of the palace is its imperial harem where the sultan kept his many wives, concubines but also where the women of the royal family lived – and schemed.  It must have been an interesting place with all the intrigues, jealousies and power fights.  The mother of the sultan ruled the roost so it surely must have been a fun place!  You may picture the harem as a big room with women just laying around (I did, anyway) but it really is a series of buildings consisting of over 400 rooms!  Of course, space was allocated according to rank.  Oh, and this also included the eunuchs (slaves especially trained –and castrated- to serve in the harem) who guarded and took care of the harem.

Today, the palace is a museum, letting the visitor get a glimpse of some of the spaces, enjoy the vistas, and see some of the collection of important artifacts in the gallery.  I enjoyed learning more about the sultans and Ottoman Empire, especially in such an incredible location in such an incredible and unique city.

Below is a gallery of photos of the buildings, rooms, grounds, and vistas of the Topkapi Palace, a must-see in Istanbul!

Click on the pictures to enlarge and view.

Jewels of Istanbul: Its Mosques

During my 5-day visit to Istanbul, I had ample time to walk around, often aimlessly, to get to know the city.  While some sights were on the must-see list (like the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace), I also “discovered” places not on my list.  I quickly developed an interest in entering the many mosques I encountered (and there are plenty!).  For a non-Muslim like me, they are worth exploring for their architecture / construction for sure but also for their interiors.  The interior of mosques in Istanbul were different than the ones I had seen in Egypt (which were the only mosques I had ever entered at that point).  What made the interiors different was their use of ceramic tile typical of Turkey (more on this further down…).

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The skyline of “old” Istanbul is accentuated by many mosques

While I don’t remember all the names and locations of the mosques I visited (though I was writing about travel at the time, it was only in emails to friends and family), I will at least share some of what I saw so you get an idea of what I mean.  But there is one that is a must-see for sure:  the “Blue” Mosque.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, aka the Blue Mosque

Almost across from the Hagia Sophia resides the most imposing mosque I saw in Istanbul:  the Sultan Ahmed Mosque.

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Looking up to the domes with an ablution fountain in the courtyard

The Blue Mosque was built in the early 17th century so it is a “baby”, really, by Istanbul standards but, nevertheless, monumental inside and out.  It boasts 6 minarets, one main dome, and many secondary domes.  It has a courtyard as large as the mosque itself surrounded by arcades (apologies to architects if I am not using the proper term) with the fountains for the ablutions located in that space.

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The arcade around the courtyard

As is the case with mosques, its interior is a vast open space (unlike Christian places of worship with benches and chairs throughout) since the prayers are done by sitting and prostrating on the floor which, of course, is covered in rugs/carpets.

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Not the best photo of the interior but you can see the faithful praying (I wanted to not be close to them while taking the pic) and some details of the interior (chandelier, carpets, etc.)

Can you believe that at the time Roman Catholic Pope Benedict XVI visited the mosque in 2006, it was only the second time a Pope had visited a Muslim place of worship?  Not only shocked for ecumenical reasons but also thinking the beauty they missed seeing!

Ceramic tile

As I mentioned, what appeals to me about mosques in Istanbul is the use of ceramic tiles in many different styles and geometrical patterns and using a lot of blue (could it be the influence of the close-by Aegean Sea blue??).  The writing in Arabic script that you see is actually verses from the Koran.  I don’t read Arabic so all I can do is say that they add to the beauty of the place.

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Side walls of a mosque in the city; notice how blue plays a prominent role in the tiles’ color

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Dome of the same mosque

Parting tips…

If you have never been to a mosque, it is good to know that you need to be properly dressed (no shorts, etc.) and that you will have to remove your shoes before you enter – please do not miss observing these rules!!  Some mosques I have been to require you leave the shoes outside (not placing them inside your bag).  A fellow traveler decided not to leave his shoes in the area that some attendant watches it because he didn’t want to pay (at the mosque close to the Golden Horn and the Grand Bazzar).  When we came out, his shoes were gone.  BIG LESSON LEARNED:  don’t skimp.  Attendants are just earning a living though, certainly, this one was a thief.

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Mosque by the Grand Bazaar where the “shoe incident” happened: the New Mosque

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Looking down onto the New Mosque, built in the 17th century right by the Golden Horn (Asian side of Istanbul in the background)

So discover Istanbul and its mosques if you visit!  I leave you with a parting shot of one of these beauties:  the Blue Mosque at sunset sporting a different color!

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At sunset

 

Exploring Mount Nebo, Jordan

Mount Nebo, Jordan is located on an area north of the Dead Sea that sits high on a ridge. According to the Bible, Mount Nebo is the place where Moses was allowed to see the Promised Land he would never enter (after guiding his people out of Egypt for 40 years!).  Exploring Mount Nebo is a neat activity that does not require more than a couple of hours but is very rewarding.

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Moses, I suppose

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Today, without Moses around, this sign does the job of pointing to the Promised Land

Mt. Nebo overlooks the valley of the River Jordan and one can glimpse Jericho and Jerusalem to the west on a good day.  The site was visited by Popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI at some point giving the site an added level of credibility, if you will, as a site of religious importance.

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Welcome to Mt. Nebo!

It is also claimed that good ole Moses is buried there.  However, as with many similar claims, there is no conclusive evidence (as conclusive as one may expect a few thousand years later…).  Whether any of this interests you or not, the views of the valley below are certainly worth visiting this important archeological site.

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Some of the view

Visiting Mount Nebo

There was a small temporary-looking exhibit at the site showing some of the beautiful mosaics of the remains of a church found in the first half of the 20th century on Mt. Nebo.  It really makes you ponder the history of the place and the area and all the events it has witnessed over time.  It is mind-boggling.

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Part of the mosaics

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Color manages to survive close to two millenia

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Up close and personal

The place is crowded with tourists of all ages and that distracts a little, for sure, from the importance of the place.  Perhaps some construction during the time of my visit contributed to the small sense of chaos, though there were moments when I was glad there was chaos and a crowd…

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Young Mt. Nebo visitors

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Another school kid visiting the site

I was patient, though, and I was rewarded when the key spot where Moses stood cleared up for a good 5 minutes and I was able to soak it all in better during that pause in the visitors.

Let ME show you the Promised Land

So, in case you have not been there, allow me show you the Promised Land!  Can you imagine how that looked back in the time of Moses?  I imagine from that altitude and distance, not much has likely changed…

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“Over yonder!” says this modern-day Moses-wanna-be

 

During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

A Survivor Story: Manila’s Story

As I headed to Manila for my very short visit, it dawned on me I actually knew little of the city’s history outside of Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos and the story ever since them (and even that, superficially only).  I had a notion of World War II impacting it through names like Corregidor and Bataan, names that meant very bad things had happened thanks to the vicious Japanese invader.  But that’s where my awareness ended.

In my visit, I did no have time to explore all of Manila.  It would seem nearly impossible.  Suffice it to say it has a wide range of neighborhoods, from those that remind you that you are in the developing world to those that show business dynamism and economic vitality (such as the important business district of Makati).

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At the Greenbelt Mall in the Makati district

The old city

The highlight of my short visit to Manila was to explore the old part of town, the “original” Manila:  Intramuros.  Intramuros’ name means “within the walls” as city walls were built around the old town by the Spanish to protect it from attackers coming either from water (Manila Bay or the Pasig River) or from land.  The Philippines had become a Spanish colony in the 1500s after the arrival of Magellan, of Magellan Straits fame, and became the western terminus of Spain‘s trans-Pacific shipping lanes to and from Mexico (which actually governed the Philippines on behalf of the Spanish crown until it became independent from Spain; what a complex web!).

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Looking down on the city walls of Intramuros from The Bayleaf Hotel

In any case, the walls did not always deter invaders successfully:  the British actually occupied Manila for 3 years in the 18th century.  Manila did survive the British but that’s not quite the survival story of Manila I want to share…

Liberated from the empire

The Philippines was not as prized a possession for Spain as were, for example, Perú and Mexico.  The Filipinos wanted to be done with Spain and their opportunity came thanks to the Spanish-American War of 1898 (which taught the world the lesson that if you are an ailing former superpower, you shouldn’t go picking up fights with the newbie superpower…).  Out of that war, via the Treaty of Paris, Spain ceded or sold various territories to the U.S. such as the Philippines, Cuba, Puerto Rico, etc.  Treaties like this one always make me think that losers in wars get to go to cool places to sign documents.  It almost tempts a dictator to start a little war to get a free trip to Paris… But I digress.

World War II (WWII) ruins a city

The Philippines stayed under U.S. control for about 50 years until after WWII.  But independence came only after some very extreme suffering.  The Japanese invaded the Philippines and took over Manila which at the time was U.S. territory.  Think about that:  they bomb Pearl Harbor (Hawaii was not a state yet) and then they go after the Philippines just days later.  The Japanese knew what they were doing; I wonder who was asleep at the wheel on this on the U.S. military’s side, especially down in Manila…

So the battle for the Philippines was vicious.  Over 100,000 civilians died when it was all said and done.  The Japanese inflicted tons of damage but so did the liberators of Manila via American and Filipino forces.  The bombing campaign to finally evict the Japanese out of Manila required throwing them out of the old city.  Intramuros was bombed significantly.  Most of it was completely destroyed.  It is quite telling (and news to me) that the second most destroyed city in WWII after Warsaw was Manila.  The Battle of Manila is considered the bloodiest battle in the Pacific in WWII which is also shocking since we always hear other names talked about a lot in the battles of the Pacific.

Intramuros today

Most of what you will see in Intramuros today is a reconstruction.  Well done, but a reconstruction.  Save St. Agustin Church (which the Japanese used as a concentration camp during their occupation).  Though it suffered some damage, the church survived the attacks fairly well.

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The main altar at San Agustin Church

The current church was built in 1607 though other churches had existed on the site before.  St. Agustin now, along with 3 other churches in the country, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name Baroque Churches of the Philippines The city walls you see today are mostly a reconstruction.  A reconstruction that has been well done as it does not look like they are as young as they are.

Intramuros is managed by the Intramuros Administration (IA) set up by the government to manage this national treasure of the Philippines.  It oversees repairs and renovations while also exercising controls to ensure the district retains its historical and architectural integrity.  I got to meet its marketing lead and its brand new Administrator which gives me great hope for continued progress in the restoration of this gem in Manila.

A survival story

Seeing Manila through the eyes of its history lends it great dignity.  Everything may not be perfectly ticked-and-tied in Manila, but the bigger point is seeing a survivor that has stepped out of sheer destruction and is just moving forward.  The long-in-distance and short-in-duration trip certainly delivered a great understanding I didn’t even realize I was going to get.  And that’s why I live to travel.

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More on Intramuros and Manila!

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Add Manila to your Pin travel board!!

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Photo of the Week – Château of Azay-le-Rideau, Loire Valley

A few years ago, right before spending two weeks in Tours, France for language immersion, I spent a few days exploring the wines and chateaux of the Loire ValleyChenonceau, Chambord, etc. are all phenomenal castles to explore with their idyllic settings, great architecture, and sense of history.  One of my favorite settings and chateaux was the château in Azay-le-Rideau.  It was built in the early 16th century on an island in the Indre River and it just seems to come straight out of the water!

Chateau d'Azay Le Rideau, Loire valley, France, castle, architecture, renaissance, history, azay, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

The Loire Valley is a place to spend weeks exploring!

 

Boarding Pass Stories: Delta Inflight Drink Options Circa 1985

I ran into this little memento going through old photo albums.  It is a boarding pass from a flight from 1986.

Delta boarding pass 1986 airline history vintage

Nothing peculiar about the front.  But once you flip to the reverse…  The menu of inflight drinks was conveniently placed behind the boarding pass!  I guess so you could plan how to get your drink on while waiting to board the plane at the gate?  Or, more likely, back then these were not in the inflight magazine -or- there was no inflight magazine to begin with…  And note the rules.

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Drinks and rules on the reverse of the boarding pass

I don’t remember much from those flights.  Of course, I remember the smoking and non-smoking sections.  I do remember getting a tray with a full meal (of airplane food, mind you) no matter how long the flight was.  I remember being able to get a free deck of cards or my own wings.  Those were the days, ey?

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Did you miss reading about my boarding pass collecting habit or the first in the boarding pass stories series or my boarding pass story about Christchurch, New Zealand??

Roman Ruins in Jordan | Ancient Jerash

Yes, Jordan is more than Petra.  And, if you have read some of my other posts on what I saw in Jordan, you are aware of that. But when it comes to historical sites of significance, it is worth noting there are important and well-preserved Roman ruins in Jordan, the Hashemite Kingdom.  Jerash, in northwestern Jordan, is historically quite important on its own right even if overshadowed by the more famous Petra further south.  However, Jerash struck me not only for its historical significance but also because it was alive!

Jerash – the ancient Greco-Roman city

Before I tell you how it is alive, let’s explore the historical and architectural gem Jerash is.  Jerash (known as Gerasa in older times) was a city built originally in Greco-Roman times.  This is estimated to have been established in the 4th century BC.  After a large earthquake in the 8th century and further destruction brought about by other earthquakes and wars, Jerash became a footnote of history.  That is, until it was begun to be excavated in the early 19th century and the rise of uncovering Roman ruins in Jordan.  Even Emperor Hadrian himself visited Jerash in his days and there is a triumphal arch commemorating that visit.  Jerash was not just a backwater outpost.

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Arch of Hadrian built to honor his visit
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Detail of the Arch of Hadrian

What to see in Jerash:  spectacular Roman ruins

Among the many sites in Jerash to explore are the Forum, temples to Zeus and Artemis, the Cardo Maximus, the North and South theaters and many other ruins.

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View of the Forum at Jerash
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Detail of the colonnade of the Forum
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Mosaic floor of one of the 3 contiguous Byzantine churches on the site

Along the Cardo Maximus

The Cardo Maximus is one of the most phenomenal ancient “streets” I have ever walked.  It is a column-lined road where the remnants, both standing and fallen, of the many structures that used to line it are still quite present if not alive.

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Visitors walking down the Cardo Maximus, the north-south colonnaded street

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Jerash’s ruins did not survive powerful earthquakes and other ravages as this reminds us

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Beautiful columns in the Temple of Artemis

The place is alive

Oh, you think I am talking figuratively, aren’t you??  There is a column in the Temple of Artemis that is actually moving.  You can place your hand at its base and you will feel it moving.  Yes, indeed!  But that is not quite what I mean when I say Jerash is alive…

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I hesitated for a second putting my hand in there. I let someone else go first…

There were also vegetation around (this being the greener part of Jordan) like the following which also contributes to making Jerash a site that is “alive”.  But that’s still not what I mean…

Fig tree in Jerash, Jordan Roman ruins Canon EOS Rebel

Fig tree along the path

But what I really meant about Jerash being alive was neither of the prior two photos.  The day we visited there were several groups of schoolchildren visiting and they enjoyed chanting in the large Roman theater – almost like competing to see who had the best chants – and running up the stands.

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children enjoying and LIVING the ruins!

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children enjoying and LIVING the ruins!

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Children climbing the stands of the theater

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

Jerash Jordan children Roman theater Canon EOS Rebel

The smile so typical of every kid we ran into! A happy memory for us all

Though these ancient ruins were some of the most impressive I have seem, it was great to see a historic place so alive that day – it helped me connect more to the essence of Jordan via its children!


Pin this image to your travel planning board – amazing Roman ruins in Jordan !

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Check out these other posts about Jordan:


During this trip, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board.  That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else.  As they always are!

Got History? Amman Does!

Coming to Amman for the first time, I was curious as to what the city would feel like.  Surely, there would be some good restaurants (all cities have them!) and some nationally important buildings or monuments worth visiting (and photographing!).  I have been to Cairo, close to Amman in many ways beyond distance, and Istanbul which, though not Arab, shared the Ottoman Empire with Amman and other places in the Middle East.  But I figured with Amman being smaller and being in a smaller country would likely feel different.  It was.  Starting with its scale but also in the pace it seemed to have.  It felt more livable, relaxed and manageable.  And many places that would fall under the category of things to do while visiting Amman.

A Wealth of History in Amman

In terms of scale, while it does not have structures that compare with the Hagia Sophia or the Pyramids of Giza (how many places do??), the depth of the historical “record” it has on evidence took me by surprise.  And I like this type of surprises!

I am a history buff but I am more informed about some places than others.  About Jordan, I knew how the country came out of colonial rule in the 20th century, I knew Petra and its history, and had some notion of the Arab Revolution in which Lawrence of Arabia had a hand (thanks Hollywood).  Amman surprised me by the incredible record of civilizations past that it holds and here is some of what I discovered in my visit to the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom.  One of those things is that it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places town in the world!

The Citadel of Amman

The Citadel is a great example of the amazing historical record available for the visitor to Jordan.  The Citadel not only has amazing ruins to visit and a great small museum but it offers amazing views of the city that surrounds it, all hills!

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A city of hills with the massive Raghadan flagpole in the background (3rd tallest free-standing in the world)

As the visitor is reminded by the signage, there has been settlements in current day Amman since thousands of years before Christ past the Bronze and Iron Ages through Persian, Greek, Nabatean, Roman and Byzantine periods.  It also has navigated through various names.  Rammath-Ammon is one of the oldest but did you know the city was also named Philadelphia in ancient times?  Yep, it was.

Among the ruins I explored at The Citadel were the ruins of a Byzantine Church and the Temple of Hercules.

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Some of the Roman ruins in The Citadel

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The Temple of Hercules as backdrop to the hand of a colossal Roman statue that once stood at The Citadel

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Close-up of the big ole hand!

A key site at The Citadel is the Umayyad Governor’s Palace from the 8th century built on old Roman ruins.  The Umayyad was a dynasty that ruled Amman for a few centuries but who ruled, at its peak, a vast caliphate from modern-day Pakistan to Spain.  Who knew, right?  Not covered in my ancient history class in high school…

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Umayyad Palace

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Detail of the palace’s dome

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Detail of the exterior of the Umayyad Palace

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Detail of the interior of the central room of the palace

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Detail of the central room at the Umayyad Palace at The Citadel in Amman, Jordan

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Ruins from the old Umayyad Mosque by the palace

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Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

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Artifacts from The Citadel’s archeology museum

The Roman Theater

Amman also has a Roman Theater built in the mid 2nd century A.D. by Emperor Antonius Pius.  It is in the middle of Amman and is a popular place for local young adults to go visit, if my time there was any indication!  Some in my group struck good conversations with locals whilst some of us climbed all over taking pictures!

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The Roman Theater viewed from The Citadel

The Roman Theater in Amman, Jordan

Approaching the entrance to the Roman Theater

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Detail of the front of the theater’s stage

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Is that a Roman spectator still hanging around??

As you can see, Amman has some incredible testimonials to ancient history in The Citadel and the Roman Theater.  Petra, Jerash and Mardaba are example of other great places to witness history and will be the topic of a future post – stay tuned!!

A Year (or the World?) Ends… Either Way, I Travel

Well, today is the day the apocalypse was to happen.  I guess a few hours are still left so maybe I shouldn’t count my eggs just yet.  BUT, if the end did happen, guess what?  I can still blog from purgatory and you KNOW that would be an incredible travel story.  Just hope it is not one of being stuck there forever, like when I was stuck in Europe because of the Icelandic volcano (which did turn out well) or someone else’s horrible travel story.  Also, if the world did end, purgatory looks a lot like my house (and if the world did NOT end, I need to make some minor changes at home…).

So the end of anything usually calls for some reflection and be it the end of the world or the end of the year, I feel like reflecting on my very busy 2012…

A Texas tweetup in January

January saw me taking what felt like a bold step – to travel somewhere to meet people I met online.  At first that has an almost dirty sound to it, doesn’t it?  But I had been talking on Twitter with these three folks for many months and they were clearly people I would enjoy meeting in person and exploring with.  So off to awesome Austin, Texas for the Texas tweetup!  There I met in person @kirkcole, @L_e_a_h, and @LolaDiMarco.  Unfortunately, a severe cold hit me on the day I traveled so I was not able to partake in all the activities but enjoyed a good day’s worth of laughing and eating in Austin!

Photo of people reflected in the fender of a car

Can you find the Austin tweetup fab 5 in the picture?

Normal in February – and other months

Traveling to DC for work permeates every month this year so my normal continued in February.  Recovered from the Austin tweetup and post-Christmas parties in January, February was time to relax and be home (or in DC). Over the year, I got to check new things in DC that I had not explored yet in the last year.  Doing the White House tour was a long-time bucket list item that I finally made happen.  I continued exploring and enjoying many of the DC’s finest hotels like The Mayflower, the Sofitel Lafayette, and the Renaissance on 9th St.  DC is a wonderful town if you get out and explore.  Its many beautiful brownstones and local eateries are a joy to explore.

March Madness:  Mile High Skiing

The traveling continued in March – this time a great ski trip with dear friends to Vail and Breckendridge, two places I had been dying to try for many years.  The trip did not disappoint and neither did my skiing, not having skied since Valle Nevado, Chile in the Andes in 2010.  Vail and Breck WILL be in a future ski trip for me, I can tell.  The bowls of Vail where incredible:  one bowl, then another one behind it, then another.  It seemed to never end!

Statue of skier in Vail, Colorado

How thoughtful! Vail had a statue of me at the base of one of the slopes!

Amicci en Italia and diving into eastern Europe in April

April finally brought about the “long”-planned trip to Italy with two sets of great friends.  Though mainly focused on Rome (a city I love re-visiting), a side trip to finally see Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast was built into the itinerary.  It did not disappoint, especially our guide in Pompeii, one of the preeminent experts on Pompeii!.

But I took advantage of being on the other side of the pond to add another iconic destination I had never explored:  Dubrovnik, Croatia.  Its tiled roofs and architecture combined with the natural setting of its location made it a magical place for me.  Of course, ever eager to see more, I decided to get further into eastern Europe while in Dubrovnik by doing day trips into Bosnia & Herzegovina (Mostar) and into the beautiful mountains and bays of Montenegro!  These day trips were short, obviously, but they definitely opened the appetite to see more of these countries and this part of Europe.

View from up high of Kotor Bay in Montenegro

One of the ridges that divides Kotor Bay into 2 bays in Montenegro

Re-charging, re-connecting, and exploring Chicago

May saw a second tweetup, this time in the Windy City since we were eager to connect with other travel bloggers we had been chatting with for awhile.  The Windy City tweetup had a little bit of everything:  from French goodness (courtesy of the Sofitel Water Tower), Charlie’s Angels, boat tour, fallen traffic lights (not our fault!), doughnuts, cold coffee, good food, drinks (repeat), and the mob.  It was a very fun weekend indeed meeting @workmomtravels, @travelingted, @jettingaround, and @elatlboy in person.

Posing in front of the Bean in Chicago at Millenium Park

Being tourists at The Bean

More fun with fellow travelers and good learnings

In June, TBEX, a travel bloggers conference, held its North America conference in Keystone, Colorado (very close to Breckenridge where I’d just been 3 months before; who knew I would be returning to the area so soon!).  Besides the interesting learnings, the reception at the mountaintop on Friday night and the ensuing party at the pub at base (free!) really made the weekend a lot of fun and a good time to meet others who share the travel bug and re-connect with others.  Among the great folks I met (too many to list all!):  @BlBrtravel, @stayadventurous, @captainandclark, @lazytravelers, @budgettravelsac, and @travelrinserept.

A trek with a purpose in Romania and a true relic of the USSR

Romania had been a mysterious place that I had always dreamed of seeing.  Not because I knew I would love it but it just called to me.  A wonderful opportunity came my way to do a hike in the Transylvanian Alps with Trekking for Kids, a non-profit seeking to bring improved lives to orphaned/at-risk children around the world.  We worked with the orphanage and just “were” with the kids before and after a hike through some beautiful landscapes around Brasov – we even saw castles other than Dracula’s!  An experience I will never forget every which way, including it was my first multi-day hike ever!

Sphinx-like rock in the Bucegi Mountains near Omu Peak, Romania

Who knew there was a Sphinx atop the Transylvanian Alps (near Omu Peak)??

Since I was headed that way, I decided Romania (more precisely, the town of Iasi, Romania’s cultural capital) would be a great springboard to explore Moldova.  So with my great guide, I explored churches, monasteries, towns (including the capital, Chisinau), and wineries in this little known former Soviet socialist republic still working to undo decades of horrible communist dictatorship.  I am SO glad I made the time for this unpolished gem at the edge of eastern Europe!

The trip ended with a one-day, two-night in awesome Paris, my home away from home in Europe.  Always love re-visiting my favorite areas and still finding new things to enjoy!

Time with Family in Tampa on my sister’s birthday in August

August also included a trip to Tampa where my family lives – always good to be with them, and enjoy good Cuban food and TLC!  I had just been there in June (when I visited the impressively set-up Dali museum) but my Mom turned 70 while I was in Romania and my sister was hitting a milestone birthday of her own in August so I just HAD to go and celebrate with them!

Rest in September

In September, I took a break from travel.  Well, non-business travel… But read on, the year of travel is not over!

Architecture and Wine:  Tuscany or Bordeaux, you say?  No, Virginia in October!

I finally succumbed to friends’ suggestion that I explore Virginia wine country with them.  I had been wanting to do this for a long time but other travel got in the way.  I took advantage of being in the DC area for work to go ahead and spend a weekend with them in wine country.  And got out RIGHT BEFORE Sandy passed by!  As you can read in my writings about this central part of Virginia, Monticello, Charlottesville and the countryside are filled with early colonial history and architecture as well as delicious wines.  And there are close to 200 other wineries in the state to be found and explored!  I was glad to have this opportunity to see more of my own country and other places will be in my sights in 2013 (like Michigan and Wisconsin thanks to friends from Chicago who write about these places!).

Cemetery where Thomas Jefferson is buried in Monticello on a fall day

Cemetery where Thomas Jefferson is buried in Monticello on a fall day

OK, now I rest ‘xcept for Thanksgiving in November

So, my fun travels wrap up for the year save for visiting family again in Tampa where I discover yet another new place for good Cuban food!  Someone STOP the madness! 🙂

I reflect back on the year and I am amazed at how much I have been able to see of places I have always wanted to see.  And this is setting aside the twenty-something weeks of work travel to DC!   The bucket list shrinks and yet I add new places I learn about.  I consider THAT my most important key performance indicator – a never-ending travel bucket list!

Merry Christmas, happy holidays, and the best in 2013 for you and yours!

Going for Terracotta Soldiers – and Discovering a City

When friends and I decided to go to China for 10 days, it was a totally clean sheet of paper in terms of what we wanted to do.  BeijingXi’anShanghaiInner Mongolia?  Lots of choices and not enough time (is there ever?).  We knew we would be in Hong Kong pre- and post- China visit as we were going to visit a common friend.  So we looked at the map and tried to figure out what would be reasonable given the amount of time and distances to cover…

The Terracotta Soldiers

At some point we decided Xi’an, with its famous terracotta soldiers HAD to be in the itinerary.  I mean, we can see the soldiers “on tour” as they are shown in museums around the world at different times – but nothing better than going to the actual site since we were already going to be in China. Shanghai and Beijing are big cities, always there for a potential business trip (should I be with the right company!).  And a big city is, after all, a big city… (more true of Shanghai than Beijing, I am sure).  But Xi’an?  Unlikely work will take me there (unless I pursue an Indiana Jones career…).

Terracotta Soldier in Xi'an, China (Xian)

So, off we went.  Of course, driving out to see the place where the soldiers were unearthed was pretty cool.  You could visualize how it was found by a farmer.  While the site itself had grown a large structure to protect to digs (the real dig:  where they have been and will be continued to be unearthed some day), there was still enough undeveloped land (this was a few years ago!).

Terracotta soldier and horses in Xi'an, China (Xian)

As you may know, the soldiers, when first unearthed, are colored but the color quickly disintegrates (or whatever the technical term is!) so they have stopped digging them up until technology has evolved enough to be able to preserve the coat of colors.  You may also know that each soldier is different.  I don’t mean in pose or attire but their actual faces.  How impressive is that?  We saw some being repaired as some broke as they were buried.

Terracotta soldier under repair in Xi'an, China (Xian)

What I Really Liked about Xi’an?

While the soldiers are the headline, Xi’an is like many other places in the world:  there are other awesome sights and experiences to be had besides the “headliner”.  The city walls are massive and impressive.  A walk around them is a must to appreciate the town.  Just look at the width of the top of the wall!  China does walls well.

Xi'an - City Wall in Xian China on a gray day

But Xi’an is more than the soldiers and the city walls.  I encourage you to explore the city, more than we got to do with our limited time.  It felt VERY different than monstrous and dysfunctional Beijing.  Xi’an came across as a city I would WANT TO live in!

Xi'an - View from City Wall in Xian, China

Xi'an - Pagoda by City Wall in Xian, China

Our last day ended with us losing our car to take us to the airport after visiting a temple site and we had to scramble to find a car to take us to the airport.  It was not easy where we were and we were tugging my friends’ 3-yr old in her stroller – which proved to be why someone finally took pity on us to help us find a car to get to the airport!  A story I will never forget!

Xi'an - Traffic at an intersection in Xian, China

 

Virginia is for lovers. History lovers!

In another post, I shared my discovery and enjoyment of Virginia wine country – in that post I mentioned how Virginia is for wine lovers. Now it is time to focus on the awesome history that I discovered on that weekend in the Virginia Piedmont – why I think Virginia is for history lovers too!

University of Virginia

 

The weekend trip was anchored around Charlottesvile, VA, home of the University of Virginia, a fine higher education institution (one of the best public universities in the U.S.) with sometimes a great basketball team.  The university was founded in 1819 by Thomas Jefferson, 3rd POTUS and a learned man in his time for sure.  The university is the only U.S. university to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  That makes it a must-see for its historic and architectural value.

The university campus is very close to downtown Charlottesville and sports many buildings with columns.  Many buildings with many columns.  Jefferson liked columns.  And octagons.  UVA’s builders over the centuries may have over-emphasized the importance of columns just a tad too much…

Thomas Jefferson at the University of Virginia

Jefferson, columns, and a couple in front of the university’s iconic Rotunda building

In any case, it is a very nice campus.  My favorite part though was the quadrangle or courtyard by the iconic main building on campus – the area known as The Lawn, headed by the Rotunda, inspired and built to half the scale of the Pantheon in Rome, Italy.  The buildings around The Lawn have tons of columns…  One of the students told us how students apply to get to live in one of the rooms in the courtyard (a privilege) and how professors are also honored when selected to live in a space there.  Of course, the professors’ digs are WAY nicer than the students’ but who cares, right?

Columns and architecture at the University of Virginia

The hallway with the students’ rooms at The Lawn

Columns and architecture typical of the University of Virginia

Professors’ quarters at The Lawn

Open hallway to the courtyard at University of Virginia with rocking chairs

Around The Lawn – love the rocking chairs

Monticello

As nice as the University of Virginia is, it pales next to the majesty of the homestead Thomas Jefferson built for himself:  Monticello.   Jefferson decided to build this homestead on a hill he knew from his childhood.  The hilltop was flattened and over a period of many decades, and Jefferson built his home there.  Assignments like Ambassador to France and the Presidency did not stop the progress on Monticello.  Jefferson eventually died there, in the beauty of this estate.

Thomas Jefferson's home at Monticello

Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's home in Virginia

We drove over from Charlottesville (Monticello is right on the outskirts of town) early on a Saturday AM to beat any crowds and make the most of our day in the area.  We made it just in time for the 9:30AM house tour.  A shuttle bus took us up the hill from the visitor center and the tour promptly started.  (By the way, the visitor center has a museum and a short movie that should be checked out.)

The tour takes you through the main level of the house.  The upper levels (2 more) are not accessible to the public and the basement is open to tour on your own, as are the rest of the grounds.

Monticello basement

A visitor exploring one of the basement rooms

The house is set up pretty much as it had been during Jefferson’s time even if not all the objects are original.  Jefferson died bankrupt and the family’s possessions were sold along the way to raise funds.  Jefferson did get to live in that house until his death at an old age with his daughter and her family (Jefferson had widowed a long time before).  Seeing his studio with the items of interest to him, his bed between the study and his bedroom, and the other living spaces was very special.  It was incredible how this man of the 18th century was so clever in the design of everything in this house.  My favorite was the wine “elevator” that would get bottles up from the wine cellar to the dining room.  I can imagine how impressed his guests were whenever he pulled that trick!

Wine caddy or elevator at Monticello built by Thomas Jefferson

Jefferson was smart about the layout of every room in the house and under the house.  The basement and the side structures were cleverly used to keep out of sight the activities the family did not wish to see from inside the house.  But also to take advantage of the coolness of being below ground:  like for the kitchen or wine making!

So the home is a special place indeed but the grounds are equally so.  Unfortunately, some of the structures that used to be around the grounds are no longer there to fully serve as witness to how life was back then in an estate, including how slaves and other workers lived.  But, with the grounds completely open, the views are incredible.  Especially on this fall day.

The beautiful grounds of Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's home in Virginia
Monticello gardens and crop plots in Virginia
Ruins at Monticello, Virginia, Thomas Jefferson's home

A short walk downhill, you can see from the outside the plot where the family and its descendants tend to be buried. It gives an incredible feeling to stand there and think about our nation’s very short modern history and yet how ancient Jefferson’s times feel.

The Jefferson cemetery at Monticello: where Thomas Jefferson is buried

Monticello is a testament to a great man of his times even if all that he was may not fit our times.  Jefferson made the most of what was available in his times and his legacy lives on at Monticello, at the University of Virginia, and in the good ole US of A via that marvel of a document, the Declaration of Independence.

Thomas Jefferson's tomb in Monticello, Virginia

RIP, Tommy Boy!

Image reflection on a window at Monticello

Is that the ghost of Jefferson??

Getting into the White House – A Tour Story

Though it was on my recently crafted bucket list, I can’t claim that going on a tour of the White House, in Washington, D.C., was a childhood dream of mine.   I didn’t quite understand, nor probably care, about the significance of the White House back then.  I understand the significance now – or better yet – the symbolism, what it stands for, even if my faith in its occupants is is not always there…  IMHO, only warped egos nursing psychological gaps stemming from their childhood would endure the hell it takes to get there.  But I digress, I meant to write about a White House visit.  And I am not a mental health professional… 🙂

I approached the White House from the north side coming from work by crossing Lafayette Square, a great place to bring your lunch and sit to watch people and one of the most important residences in the world!

North side of the White House with Washington Monument behind it from Lafayette Square in Washingon, D.C.

View of the WH from Lafayette Square with Washington Monument behind it

Since taking a camera is not allowed and there are no lockers, the pictures you will see are from my smartphone (though you cannot take pictures during the tour) – excuse the lower quality!

Planning my White House tour

You may think after my VIP Delta treatment that I am now being recognized EVERYWHERE for the VIP that I am (in my own mind).  No, no, I wasn’t invited to the White House.  That is reserved for big donors or poster-children of age, race, gender/orientation, or other politically-convenient traits.  I did it the good ol’ way:  I contacted a congressman’s office and requested a tour, a White House tour.  And it wasn’t a 3-hour tour.  More like 30-45 mins…

A visit requires planning if you are an out-of-towner.  I am one of those except I work in DC on a very frequent basis.   After 1.5 yrs of this, I realized the foolishness of my ways:

  1. I had never been to the White House.
  2. I worked 2-3 blocks away.
  3. I could plan weeks in advance.
  4. I may not continue doing this for much longer (going often to DC, that is).

So, I decided to just send the darned email, fill out the silly little Excel spreadsheet (less than 10 fields to complete), and then sit and wait for the date and time of my “appointment.”

You too can visit the WH like these schoolchildren! Just get there before them…

The White House tour – some details

I eventually got my confirmation and so I waited.  I waited for this tour that is not a tour.  You walk yourself around a pre-defined path while no one is describing anything for you.  However, you are encouraged to ask questions of the people stationed in every room or area you visit for information about the room/area (you do get a National Parks brochure describing the visit too).  These folks are not your average docent/guardian at a museum room.  These are Secret Service folks.  Why?  Had we not been cleared well enough in advance?  Well, I am sure there is always a risk a visitor could do something requiring the training a Secret Service person has received but there is a more important reason.  At some points in your tour, you COULD BE within 6-12 ft of POTUS (this word always makes me giggle), the President of the United States!  You may not know it, and it may not matter if he (“she”, by the time someone reads this many years from now?) is there but they have to handle as if.  Pretty neat if you think about it.

These Secret Service folks, though, are not unfriendly.  A tad rigid maybe but I am sure they are being quite vigilant.  However, they gladly answer questions and even offer information – I was astonished that they went “above expectations” so kudos, Secret Service dudes and dudettes – most bodacious!

So the tour actually begins outside and you are warned to have gone potty and maybe bring something to eat plus water.  Not that you can consume them inside but so that you have for the waiting in line before you hit the security checkpoint.

Perhaps being off-season, I did not encounter any line at all.  Which I was happy for (my friend Leah will need to forgive the 2 faults I know this sentence has).  I first went through some weird checkpoint (maybe sensing powder/dust or chemicals?), then I went through the more standard metal detector and bag conveyor.  Of course, you are not allowed to bring many things on this tour, including cameras (cellphones are allowed to be carried in but cannot be used) and the instructions tell you all this so you are not taken by surprise.

Buyer beware:  Once you enter the White House no electronic devices can be used until you exit the White House through the front door and exit the large portico.

The start of the White House tour

OK, so you enter the White House from the east, one floor below the street in the front but at the level of the gardens facing south.  Large paintings of First Ladies and POTUSes {double giggle} await.  As you walk down this gallery, you see some photographs of presidents current and past doing the most mundane presidential things:  meeting prime ministers from other countries, playing with visiting children, and all the cute things POTUSes {giggle} do.

Then you can see the china chosen by different residents in the China Room and the hallway, and also peek at the Library (all books by key American authors).  You can also see here the Vermeil Room, so called because of the large amount of gilded silver;.  This room holds portraits of recent First Ladies and was at some point a former billiard room – or the White House man-cave, I suppose.  There are other rooms in the ground floor, like the Diplomatic Reception Room, that are not included in the tour.  The ground floor is interesting but nothing that wowed me other than knowing many greats (American or otherwise) have been there.

Let me throw in some White House history…

Before I keep detailing the tour, allow me a historical detour {wow, that was brilliant}…  It is important to know that  the White House, which was built between 1792 and 1800, has undergone renovations throughout its history.  The rooms are not exactly as they were after it got rebuilt after the fire set by the British in 1814 during the 1812 War.  This fire destroyed the interior, but not the structure, of the White House.

So this was news to me:  did you know the White House was designed by an Irish-American architect named James Hoban (and namesake of a favorite bar of mine in D.C.)?   George Washington had seen his work while visiting Charleston, S.C. and chose him to design the President’s residence in the future capital (in the meantime, Washington lived as President in the then-capital of Philadelphia).  As you may know, Washington was the only President to have never lived in the White House.

Hoban did not design all of what you see today (for example, the porticos were built later as were the East and West wings).  The third floor attic had the roof line changed in 1927 to convert the space to living quarters.  Finally, the actual structure itself underwent serious changes during the Truman years since the internal wooden beams among other things were found to be close to failure.  Truman actually had to move out of the White House for months while the internal rooms were dismantled, steel beams installed, and the rooms re-established.

North portico of the White House added in 1829

North portico was added on in 1829

East Wing from the northeast corner of the White House and the Dept of Treasury in the background

East Wing from the northeast corner and the Dept of Treasury in the background

Let’s move on… to the State Floor of the White House

You move on up, like the Jeffersons (as in the TV show, not the President), and hit the State Floor (or the main floor). On this, the last floor included in the tour,you get to see some neat spaces:  the Green Room (once Jefferson’s dining room; Thomas, not the TV show in this case), the Blue Room (often used by the President to receive guests), the Red Room (a favorite of the ladies, the First Ladies that is), the State Dining Room (which fools you because it can seat up to 130 people) and the East Room.  This last room is a large ballroom-like space that has seen even several weddings.  Also, the bodies of 7 Presidents have laid in state here.  The East Room contains probably the most important painting in the complex:  the 1797 (ancient by U.S. standards!) full portrait of George Washington that made Dolly Madison (a First Lady) famous.  See, when the White House was burning in 1814, good ol’ Dolly rushed to take this painting out of the White House to save it.  I appreciate her efforts but I wonder if, without such an effort, she would just be more of a footnote in history as are some other first ladies, whose names I cannot recall…

After seeing these rooms, you move to the large foyer/lobby where you are summarily “shown the door”.  The Secret Service individual standing at the door was actually quite informative and shared how he has seen the current and last Presidents in very private moments – being very human as they move about their abode after hours (or before hours for the early risers…).  From here, you walk out the north door to the massive portico we are used to seeing anytime shots of the White House appear on TV from the north side.  Once you step out of the portico, that smartphone camera can come out and you can snap away the photo you have been dying to take:  one of you at the White House!

My picture in front of the White House's north portico

Yea, that’s me in the middle of that crowd with the blue shirt…

In conclusion, fellow citizens, Romans, et ales

Yes, I am getting all formal, after all I am writing about THE White House.  Not the Pink House in Buenos Aires, or some other colored-named house.  In conclusion {drum roll}, the visit to this most important abode is way too short and way too limited.  Heck, I am paying for a lot of stuff in that place.  I want to see the Lincoln bedroom, perhaps enjoy a pillow fight there (nope, I did not even get to take a peek at the room!  pillow fight there remains in the bucket list).  I want to see the Oval Office even if not allowed in (the POTUS is not ALWAYS there, come on!).  But, I am thankful that, at least, us regular folks get to enter the precinct that is the home of the President of the United States of America and for a very short moment take a peek at a place that has seen a  lot of greats (and a lot more so-sos… no names…) lead this country or visit those who have led this country.  Check it out if you can!

North portico of the White House as the tour ends

Leaving the White House, turn around and soak in the view. You were just IN THERE!

No politicians were harmed in the writing of this post.

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