Cheese Town in The Netherlands: Gouda

As my trip to The Netherlands was taking shape, I was looking forward to visiting the town eponymous with cheese: Gouda. I had never stop to contemplate what this cheese town in The Netherlands could actually be like, much less look it up.

Gouda’s name doesn’t sound like it reads

Once in The Netherlands, I learned the town name is pronounced something like “Hao-da”. It does sound ridiculous vs. the pronunciation of the letters in English (or Spanish, or many other languages). But that is the cool thing about Dutch: it is very much its OWN thing. I tried not to be pretentious since it was only a half-day visit. So I stuck to “Goo-da” but I avoided saying it in front of locals to not offend 🙂

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring
Approaching town center coming from the nearby train station

Getting to Gouda

My visit to Gouda would be a daytrip from Rotterdam. Staying in Rotterdam, made it very easy to squeeze in a side trip since the ride was so short – about 20+ mins. From the Gouda train station, it was a 5-min walk to the shopping/pedestrian street leading to the heart of town. Easy-peasy!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Tourist in Gouda

We stopped at the tourist info office at the heart of town (the “VVV“) and oriented ourselves. It is a small office and a good place to get info, plans, etc. if you have not done much research beforehand. They sell a handy and compact visitor booklet for 5 euros that is worth the spend. It orients you to town and the places to be sure to notice/see intown.

The tourist office is within a historic building, De Waag, where they weighed cheese brought in to the market for sale. Considering Gouda’s cheese market was established in 1198, we can say a lot of cheese has gone through it. Now, the Waag hosts the VVV and a small museum.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Town

We learned that Gouda became the “it” place for the cheese commerce beating other competitor towns. I thought the cheese was named for the town because it was made there but, no, it was made in the region. Gouda was just like the trading center. Who knew?

The central square still hosts a cheese market one day a week. The Gothic building at the center, City Hall or Stadhuis, built around 1450, was placed alone to avoid it catching fire should a fire start around it.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, city hall, stadhuis
Gouda, Holland, cheese town inThe Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, stadhuis, city hall, rathaus
Gouda, Holland, cheese town in The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Tasting

We opted to do a cheese exploration by visiting the Gouda Cheese Experience. It was a neat place with some hands-on interaction (not making cheese but in other ways) which made it interesting for kids and adults.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience
True hands-on!

At the end, we had the chance to taste some cheeses before heading out. It was a good way to learn more about cheesemaking in all its aspects (ingredients, process, packaging, etc.).

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience, cheese tasting

Amazing stained windows at Sint-Janskerk

Taking a small side alley from the market square, one enters the quaint area around the church of St John’s (Sint-Janskerk). The area is small and kept much as it has been for ages. It became one of my favorite spots in The Netherlands!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Dutch canal
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Lazarus Gate
The beautiful Lazarus Gate
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Lazarus Gate
The reverse (or garden-side) of the Lazarus Gate
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture

The church is protestantly sparse – devoid of the warmth that I am used to in a place of worship. However, it hosts 72 amazing 16th century stained windows (most of them, not all). These stained windows were taken down during WW II so they would not be destroyed. They were stored all over the place until the war ended and they could safely hang in their usual spots.

Using an audioguide is highly recommended (included in the entrance fee) to better appreciate the art and what it depicts. It was time well spent!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window

The church was built in the mid-sixteenth century after fire destroyed the medieval church that was located there (not an uncommon fate for churches in those times). Another claim to fame is that it is the longest church in The Netherlands.


I hope this gives you a small glimpse into this curious Dutch town – and that perhaps you read this and it makes you want to eat some Gouda cheese!

It Is High Time to Explore Split!

In between Venice, Italy and Dubrovnik, Croatia lie a number of islands and coastal towns that form Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. I have been fortunate to have visited Dubrovnik twice – as charming a town as I have ever seen. But, in a recent trip along the coast, I got to spend a brief day in Split, not quite halfway between Dubrovnik and Venice and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While Dubrovnik beats Split in the picturesque category, Split is very pleasing to the eye and feels much more approachable and livable. I would rather spend a couple of weeks in Split than in Dubrovnik for sure.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, Jadrolinija ferry

A bit on how Split became important… Diocletian

Split is an old town in a continent of old towns. Its main claim to fame is the palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian as his retirement home. Diocletian retired from being emperor in a job that people did not get to retire from. Much as the late Pope Benedict XVI did in another job typically worked until natural (or otherwise) death came about.

Diocletian ruled in the late third century A.D. after doing a lot of things, including persecuting Christians in his empire. The bloodiest and largest persecutions conducted by Rome across the early A.D. centuries were his – nice guy… Diocletian was born in the Roman area called Dalmatia (a good bit of current Croatia). As many did before him, he rose through the Roman military’s ranks to become emperor.

The rare retired Roman emperor needs a palace

Diocletian decided to voluntarily leave the emperor role as illness had impacted him. He built himself a palace a short distance from the capital of the province of Dalmatia by the waters of the Adriatic.

His palace was built more like a fortress, surrounded by massive walls on all four sides (as the image below shows) and dotted by a number of towers. It also had four main gates, one on each side, with one of them facing the water.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
The left side faced the Adriatic

Today, land has been reclaimed so that gate is no longer opening up to boats but to cafes and other establishments that then face the water.

Retaining Roman walls in a modern setting

The “palace” retains some of the walls and a few towers as well as some of the structures from Diocletian’s time.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace

As you walk inside the so-called palace, you find amazing remnants of the original structure. For example, a small sphinx brought from Egypt, the vestibule area where people waited to enter the former emperor’s quarters, and the like.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, cistern
Former cisterns, later sewage dump, now often market stalls
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Sphinx on the lower left; entrance to emperor’s quarters ahead

A palace that is a town, still lived in

However, over the centuries buildings/structures have come and gone. The inside of the palace is more like an old town that is still being lived in – an ongoing residential area almost two millennia later.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, church, arch

We heard that, unfortunately, private businesses are buying buildings to set up fancy boutique hotels, offer rental apartments for tourists, etc. This means that locals are being pushed out. It is a shame that it is taking place here (and many other charming towns across Europe) though one can see the appeal.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace

Markets always offer good photo opps!

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene

Different architectural styles

If you pay attention as you walk around, you will notice the mark from different architectural styles from Roman to Venetian Republic to Hapsburg and more. I imagine it will mean a lot more to architects than to me but even I, a layperson, enjoyed seeing the contrasting styles in town.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Venetian architecture in Croatia

An amazing town to check out

Split is much more than Diocletian’s palace. It is an important port and the many ferries coming and going to Italy and other towns and islands in the Adriatic are evidence of that. I am hoping to find a place to rent (outside of the palace!) and spend time chilling in this fantastic Adriatic and historical town!

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Beautiful Adriatic sky and waters
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Ciao, Split – ’til next time!

Rouen: Full of History in War and Art

France has so many destinations to explore, it is hard to cover them all or explore them as in-depth as they deserve. Even after living in Paris for 6 months many years ago, I could not cover all the territory that I would have liked. One of the towns that I always wanted to visit was Rouen, in Normandy. Why? Two things have always drawn me to it:

  • Its cathedral, made eternal not only by its construction but by its depiction by Claude Monet under different light and seasons.
  • Its infamous designation as the town were St. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake by the English at 18 years of age.

Getting there

From Paris, going to Rouen is a piece of cake. A two-hour train ride from Gare St. Lazare takes you to Rouen. From the train station in Rouen, a half-a-mile walk (or less) takes you into the center of town. There is a metro station near the train station and the heart of the town is just one or two stops away. But I recommend walking in as it is sort of downhill!

Surprised by Rouen

I am not sure what architecture I should have expected but I was surprised by the architecture in the old town. It looked a lot like the architecture that I saw around Strasbourg and Colmar in southeastern France. The town center was beautiful!


Monet’s Cathedral

Monet gave this old cathedral a favor by his work showing its glory in different times of year and under different light. I enjoyed playing with photo filters to re-enact his work with my layman’s skillset and tools…

The cathedral sports a magnificent façade that clearly lost a few statues at some point; some of the remnants can be seen inside the church. There are some tombs of former kings from over a millennium ago. Impressive.


Odd church… to St. Joan of Arc

As we walked in the old part of town, we saw this oddity in the middle of some square or plaza. It really looked weird and like it did not belong. The more I looked at it, the more it began to look like some Viking structure. It turned out to be the church built on the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake after being accused of many false things by the English (whom she had helped fight on the French side before she was even 19!). Once we identified what it was, the architecture began to make more sense.

The site was very moving. There is a very tall cross right outside the church on the spot where this poor and very brave young woman died for France. The inside of the church seems to fit the story. When I looked at the ceiling, the ceiling seemed to flow up to a point – like a flame would. It was all very moving indeed…


Crêpes!

When one goes to Paris, one is well-served by eating crêpes from the stands around town. But, in Normandy, eating crêpes is a must! We found a great mom-n-pop place, Kerso, where we enjoyed crêpes salés and crêpes sucrés for lunch. Really cool find!

Though only a half day visit, I definitely got my money’s worth and more checking out this most interesting of French towns!

4 Tips to Visit the Charles Bridge in Prague

The Charles Bridge in Prague deserves every bit of fame it gets for gracing and connecting Prague – a quite unique town itself.  The Charles Bridge spans the Vltava River (not the Danube!) and provides ample photo opportunities for selfie-crazed tourists or normal tourists!  I got to check it out or walk on it to get places and want to share four tips to visit the Charles Bridge as an excuse to showcase my photos 🙂

A little history of the Charles Bridge in Prague

Construction of the bridge began in the 1300s to replace a prior one and it was finished in 1402.  Now THAT is an old bridge!  The King that ordered its construction was Charles, hence the name of the bridge, though that name is a relatively recent name actually.  For hundreds of years, it was the only way to cross the river other than a boat.

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

Old relief carving of the city shows the bridge already crowded!

The bridge is about 600m long and has 16 arches holding it up.  It was cool to see the ice breaking structures protecting the pillars though I did not see them “in action” as I went in the spring.

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #1 – the statues

My first tip is to not just look at the statues that grace either side of the bridge and snap a photo, but to read about them as you look at them.  They are mainly not the original statues but replicas.  Now, there are many (perhaps around 32?) so maybe you will not have time or attention span to do that with all of them (I didn’t!) but there is a lot of meaning and stories behind the people.  These statues were placed there to convey stories or values, memorialize individuals, and perhaps to add grace to the bridge.  Mind them!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

One of the many statues on the bridge!

While the statues are the dominant “decoration” of the bridge, there are a few plaques or carvings worth noting (and reading of in advance!).

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, John Nepomuceno

Carvingn depicting St. John Nepomuk being thrown off the bridge under orders of King Wenceslas

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #2 – the light and time of day

OK, my next tip is that there are many angles for a good photo but which angle is best varies with the time of day as the sun changes position in the sky.  I recommend going at different times throughout the day so you can face the sun as you take that priceless group photo or selfie with different sides of the city behind you.  And that includes nighttime!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, tips to visit the Charles Bridge

Early in the morning – beautiful angle

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, tips to visit the Charles Bridge

Night time looking towards Prague Castle

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #3 – the underside

Of course, people spend the time during the visit ON the bridge.  But, I ventured a little bit on the Prague Castle side of the bridge in the residential area BELOW the bridge.  It was charming (and quiet at that early time of the day).  I wonder how the residents cope with the hordes of us tourists all over the area during the day…  In any case, you will find the entrance to staircases to take you down right on the bridge, or you can enter the area near the tower on the Prague Castle end of it.  Get off the bridge and explore its “underside”!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

Right under the bridge

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

Around the small neighborhood under the bridge

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, tips to visit the Charles Bridge

And you never know when you will spot wedding photo sessions!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, NYFD memorial

Memorial to the 911 NYC firemen who died – unexpected find!

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #4 – when to spend time there

My top tip for visiting the Charles Bridge is to go early in the morning, before the city gets crowded with locals and tourists.  I am an early riser and while the rest of my group woke up and got ready, since we were staying a block away from the bridge, I went for a walk and almost had the bridge all to myself!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

The same shot in the afternoon would look very different as the sun would light the photo differently

————————————————————————————————————

Hope these tips to visit the Charles Bridge in Prague are helpful.  Enjoy checking out the Charles Bridge – and Prague!

Pin this image to your travel board!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

9 Cool Places to See in Belgrade, Serbia

Serbia is in a unique spot in what seems to be where Central and Eastern Europe meet.  It very likely is not in the top 10 target destinations for someone from North America but, of course, that means nothing to me:  I had in on my list of places to see (it is a very long list!).  Being surrounded by many countries I have visited added to the curiosity since none of those countries were alike.  I wanted to see if Serbia was akin to any of the others I had seen.  I learned it was an interesting place rich with history and cool places to see.

Initially, this trip to Europe was anchored on Prague, Vienna and Budapest – destinations my cousin had been targeting – but I thought it was the perfect trip into which to incorporate a visit to Serbia.  I flew in from the U.S. via Charles de Gaulle in Paris and, when I left, I flew from Belgrade to Prague to meet up with my cousin and the others on the trip.

Impressions of Serbia’s Capital:  Belgrade

Of course, the trip began in Belgrade, its capital city.  I did not know what to expect.  Was it more like its Central European neighbors’ capital cities or more like its Eastern European neighbors’ capital cities?  Well, I could not quite peg to either and that was actually kind of cool.  Its unique placement at the confluence of two large rivers (the Danube being one and the Sava being the other), its strategic location over centuries of fighting back and forth between Ottomans and Europeans, and its more gradual transition out of a Communist (though milder than other Eastern European countries) past lent it a very different feel than any of the other cities in the region.

Cool Places to See in Belgrade

Belgrade is a city with plenty of places to check out.  They are not all concentrated in one core part so a good plan or a guided tour (see next section) is best.  I explored many of these through the guided tour but also by exploring on my own before and after the tour.  I enjoyed the mix of sites that I got to explore, some for the history, some for the views, and some to just stroll through and relax!  Here is my list of cool places to see in Belgrade.

1 – Tašmajdan Park and St. Mark’s Orthodox Church

  • Tašmajdan is a quiet city park near by the Metropol Palace Hotel and Parliament, with great paths for walking or jogging.  It also hosts special events; there were fireworks there one of the nights I was in town.
  • At one end of it (towards Parliament) is the beautiful church of St. Mark‘s which is nicely illuminated at night.  It was only built in the mid-20th century but that does not take away from its beauty.  The prior church built on that side was destroyed during World War I.

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade,, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Looking at St. Mark’s from the park

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade,, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Interior of St. Mark

    St. Mark, Serbian Orthodox Church Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija, Beograd

    Main avenue by the park (Bulevar kralja Aleksandra)

    Tašmajdan Park, Belgrade park, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Memorial at the park for children who died in 1999 NATO bombings of the city

2 – Tito Mausoleum

  • Josip Broz Tito was the leader of Communist Yugoslavia for most of its existence.  But he was also a World War II hero to the country.
  • He also led the Non-Aligned Movement that sought to create a sphere separate from U.S. and Soviet leadership though, in the end, it is hard to believe its full neutrality when Soviet puppets like Cuba were part of it…
  • In any case, parts of the site are undergoing renovations but the mausoleum itself containing his tomb (and his wife’s who lived an extra 33 years mostly under something akin to house arrest) is open.  It is also known as the House of Flowers.
  • It so happened that it was the anniversary of Tito’s death when I visited so every visitor was handed lapel pins with his image.
  • The site is not in the heart of the city but I’d say it is worth the effort if you like history or are curious about the Cold War that now seems something so distant to many…

    Tito mausoleum, Belgrade, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija, Josip Broz Tito

    Tito’s tomb

3 – Belgrade Fortress

  • Belgrade sits by the intersection of the Sava and Danube rivers.  That intersection is best appreciated from a park at Belgrade Fortress.
  • Belgrade Fortress has a long history and its construction / expansion happened under different “regimes” over the centuries.  It is an interesting place to explore but make sure someone explains that history so you can better appreciate the site.
  • Suffice it to say that the site’s origins go back to when the settlement was that of a Celtic tribe around 300 B.C. and later became a Roman one.  It developed over time into the larger fortress evidenced today at the site.
  • But not without many instances of being destroyed and rebuilt.  One such installment happened in the 18th century when Austria returned the area to the Ottoman Empire but had to destroy the fortifications as part of the terms agreed to…
  • Kalemegdan Park abuts the fortress and it is a place to enjoy a break from all the exploring and watch life go by.

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija

    One of the main gates to the fortress

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija

    The walls of the fortress show different construction periods

    Belgrade Fortress, Serbia, Beograd, Srbija, Danube and Sava rivers

    View of the intersection of the Danube River (top right) with the Sava River

4 – Avala Tower

  • Outside the city, the Avala Tower (over 200m tall) offers great views of the region around Belgrade and the city itself.  It is worth trekking out there and paying to go up for the views.
  • The original tower was lost to NATO bombings in 1999 so the tower now on the site is only around 10 years old.

    Avala Tower, Beograd, Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija

    The tower is not really inclined!

    Avala Tower, Beograd, Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija

    My only photo of the view has me as an accessory…

5 – Monument to the Unknown Hero

  • The monument is located really close to the Avala Tower making the extra distance to go see one be even more worth it.
  • It was built before World War II to commemorate an unknown World War I soldier tomb found there.
  • The structure atop a steep flight of stairs is quite impressive.  It is decorated with massive statues of women in local attire representing the various areas of the former Yugoslavia.  The plaza around it is quite pleasant and a nice spot to rest.

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Nice path leads to the monument atop the staircase

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Two of the eight statues atop the monument

    Memorial to Unknown Soldier, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Great, placid vistas of the countryside

6 – Strolling through the streets of Belgrade

  • Belgrade is not enjoying the money brought in by big tourism as other cities like Prague may be.  While the limited investment is visible, it lends great charm to the city as it does not feel amusement-park like.  It feels like a regular city, with character and history both of which afford the attentive eye good opportunities for cool photos!
  • The Dorćol district right by the Danube is a cool one to walk around.  Though damaged during Allied bombing in World War II, you can appreciate how Belgrade must have felt like back in the day.  It is interesting to see a rare mosque from around the 17th century almost around the corner from the Jewish Historical Museum.
  • The area known as Skadarlija is supposed to be fun and bohemian district of Belgrade.  I did not spend time there but heard many good things about it.

    charming streetcar, tram in Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, streetscene

    Charming old tram

    architecture of Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, arquitectura

    Beautiful building!

    street art, graffitti, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Street art is not only a Belgrade thing but I liked this one

    architecture of Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija, arquitectura

    Another great piece of architecture near Belgrade Fortress

7 – The small town of Zemun

  • Now a “suburb” of greater Belgrade (New Belgrade), it used to be its own town dating back to Roman times (as does part of Old Belgrade).
  • Its Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower) is a short climb but being located atop a hill, it offers nice views towards Old Belgrade.  Seemingly its grounds are also popular among couples getting married for photos of the big day!  The tower was built at the end of the 19th century and it is well worth heading there.
  • Coming down to the main square, we stopped a corner bakery where I was introduced to a delicious Serbian cheese-filled pastry called burek.  Spectacular!

    Gardoš Tower, Millennium Tower, Kula Sibinjanin Janka

    The Gardoš Tower

    Gardoš Tower, Millennium Tower, Kula Sibinjanin Janka

    The view from up high with yours truly

    burek, Serbian pastry, belgrade, beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Burek!

8 – Church of St. Sava

  • Unfortunately, this important and large Serbian Orthodox Church, was not open during my visit.  Construction started in the 1930s and it is still being finished though most of it seems to nbe done.
  • An interesting factoid is that its main dome was built on the grounded and lifted into position in 1989.
  • Though the main part of the church is not open, the crypt was.  It was quite beautiful.

    St. Sava, orthodox church, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Exterior

    St. Sava, orthodox church, Belgrade, Beograd, Serbia, Srbija

    Nicely illuminated crypt!

9 – The Nikola Tesla Museum and the nearby Kultura Bar

As an electrical engineer (though I may not remember most of what I learned in those university years past!), visiting the birth city of Nikola Tesla presented the opportunity to explore the local museum dedicated to him.  Now, Mr. Tesla moved early on to the United States but still it is his birth city so a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum was top on my list.  The museum is a little different than most museums in that you can only enter it on the hour and the group is capped as the experience is partially guided.  It starts with a 15-minute movie followed by exploring the concepts Tesla worked with – hands-on.  One has to look in advance to see for a given time slot what language is the guided tour offered in so one doesn’t show up -as I did- at a time in a language one doesn’t understand…

Unfortunately, my first attempt was at the correct language for English but I didn’t get to make it in as the group was maxed out.  Luckily for me, I had read in advance of cool local bars and one of the top ones was one block away so I went over to have a drink and, I thought, kill 45 minutes so I could get into the next group (which was in English).  Well, that was a great plan except the bar, Kultura Bar, was so quaint and the bar staff so friendly that I just stayed on 2-3 hours and missed the opportunity to visit the museum.  Now that is going with the flow!  Their tequila-based Old Fashioned was pretty darn good!

cool places to see in Belgrade, Kultura Bar, Beograd, Srbija, belgrado, Serbia

Interior of the Kultura Bar

How best to explore Belgrade:  small group guided tour

Since my time in Serbia was very limited, I signed up for a small group Belgrade tour to maximize the number of sights I could visit without worrying about how to get to places or getting distracted (see the prior section on the failed Nikola Tesla museum visit!).  The smaller group is more manageable for the tour guide as the vehicle can be smaller and he can get to talk with everyone standing just right around him.  It also moves faster as there is less chance of people holding the group up.

This was a great idea as the sites to visit were not necessarily within easy walking distance from each other.  We did have a part of the tour that allowed us to walk around through the heart of the city which was nice as we got to mix being driven places with enough time out and about.  The tour allowed me to get a good sense of the city and where things were for future reference.

You can probably find a number of operators out there without me talking about who I used.  I found the guide for this tour very ready to help us learn about Belgrade and Serbia and proud of his town.  Vert cool


My next day in Serbia was spent going outside of Belgrade to explore Serbia’s second city, the jewel town of Novi Sad.  More on that in an upcoming post!  In the meantime, pin this image to your travel board!

belgrade, belgrado, beograd, serbia, srbija, unknown hero, statue

 

How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience.  Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train.  Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience.  In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp.  While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine.  In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live:  they are parks.  But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand.  Either way, the result is the same.  One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience.  It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

teahouse, packing list, Nepal, Everest, base camp, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, teahouse, nature, adventure, outdoors, travel, Asia

Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return.  That was OK with me.  In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around.  (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”.  See here more more details on that trek.)

Deboche, Nepal, Everest, base camp, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, teahouse, nature, adventure, outdoors, travel, Asia

Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed.  I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route.  I also discovered the more  impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!).  The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft).  EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft).  So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night).  Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous.  (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar).  Sleeping quarters are not heated.  And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center.  So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

teahouse, packing list, Nepal, Everest, base camp, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, teahouse, nature, adventure, outdoors, travel, Asia, stove

The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along.  There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff.  So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

packing list, Nepal, Everest, base camp, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, teahouse, nature, adventure, outdoors, travel, Asia

My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics.  But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten.  Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

  • Upper Body and Legs:  The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost.  Layers are key to both.  Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan.  Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood.  The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice.  It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
  • Feet:  The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable.  Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet.  Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places.  You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots.  The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space.  Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
  • Hands:  Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must.  You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
  • Head:  A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know.  You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).


Gear and other practical items

  • Sleeping bag:  While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen.  So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring.  I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated.  Very much needed!
  • Night light:  When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc.  Don’t forget batteries!
  • Pillow:  A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow.  I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…

teahouse, packing list, Nepal, Everest, base camp, Himalayas, trekking, hiking, teahouse, nature, adventure, outdoors, travel, Asia

Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

  • Trekking poles:  Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support.  Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!

    Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Everest, Base Camp, Himalayas, trail, route, nature, outdoors, adventure, hiking, trekking

    Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar

  • Water:  Treating water is very important.  A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal.  Batteries are the big thing here.  Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it.   Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through.  Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen.  I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack.  It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.


  • Wipies/Tissues:  These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty.  Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around.  Or other general cleaning purposes!  [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
  • Towel:  A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels.  Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold.  Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…


  • Medications and first aid:  The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances.  But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc.  Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs.  Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within.  Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request.  The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
  • Personal items:  The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc.  Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).
  • And, of course, duct tape!  Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs!  I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

——————————————————————————————–

I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest!  Pin it to your board!

everest base camp, packing list, what to bring, what to wear, helpful tips everest


If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below.  I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!).  Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!  

 

In-and-Out: Munich, Bavaria’s Capital

Munich (or, München, in German) is a great city on many levels.  Its location, the Bavarian cuisine, the amazing architecture, and the many things to see and do make it a perfect place to explore over a few days.  However, my chances to spend time there seem contained to a day or so.  My first time was in 1994 as I went from Frankfurt to Austria; the family I was traveling with had a relative there so we stopped somewhere on the outskirts of the city to have lunch and visit – a very short visit.  Then in 1999, I went to Munich for a business trip that lasted just a few hours – not even an overnight and nowhere the near the city center.  Eventually, in 2011, I finally got see the city center and stay overnight on a stopover as I returned home from a trip to Croatia.  That time, I got to walk around Marienplatz at night and have dinner at a great local restaurant nearby but that was to be all.

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Place I had dinner at in 2011

Landing in Munich again!

Fast forward to 2017 and another visit to Munich appears on my radar but – yet again – it is not going to be a long one:  another overnight but, this time, with the chance to see the city center in the daytime!

On the final approach on the flight over from Amsterdam, it was neat to see the beautiful Bavarian countryside…
Munich, Munchen, landing, final approach, flight, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore
Munich, Munchen, landing, final approach, flight, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Upon landing, it was time to get the rental vehicle and drop the stuff at the hotel before venturing into the heart of the city (the hotel was close to the airport).  The drive into town was easy – GPS and Google Maps took care of that.  It was neat to finally see the city in the daytime!

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Approaching the city center

Marientplatz – the place to be

We approached Marienplatz by crossing through a former’s farmer market, the Victuals Market (Viktualienmarkt), now selling fruits, meats, and ready-to-eat food across a hundred or so stalls/kiosks/cafés.  Though it was February, the place was teeming with people – very lively place.

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

The Victuals Market

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

The Victuals Market

We entered Marienplatz after passing by Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) by the side where the Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) is located.

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Heiliggeistkirche

The Church of the Holy Ghost

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Heiliggeistkirche

Interior of the church

That places you seeing the Rathaus, or City Hall, from the side and at a little distance – it is so impressive to see!!

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Rathaus, Marienplatz

The Rathaus upon entering MarienplatzMunich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Spielzeugmuseum

The Spielzeugmuseum – a toy museum – at one end of Marienplatz

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Rathaus, Marienplatz

The Rathaus (not rat house!), the key building in Marienplatz

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Closeup of the Rathaus’ façade

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Detail of a Rathaus’ entrance

Munich from atop the Rathaus

Whenever I have the chance, I go up!  Climbing or riding up but I go up!  At the Rathaus, you can ride up to the top to get great views of the city all around and to take a look down at Marienplatz itself.  I highly recommend checking it out!

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Rathaus, Marienplatz

Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Spielzeugmuseum

Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

Looking at the very top of the Rathaus from the viewing platform

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore

View of the city from atop the Rathaus

From above, I want to explore all the corners of this great city:  walk its streets, check out bars and restaurants, see its museums, visit its churches, etc.  Maybe the fourth time will be the charm and I will get to spend a few days doing just that!  Auf wiedersehen, München!


Pin any of the photos above or this one to your travel board!

Munich, Munchen, Germany, Bayern, Bavaria, travel, food, explore, Rathaus, Marienplatz

 

Off-the-Beaten-Path Sweden: Industrial Eskilstuna

A year ago, I went to Sweden with the idea of spending a little more time in Stockholm than a one-day cruise ship stop allowed me years before.  I really like Stockholm and its different neighborhoods, its surroundings (water!), and its old town.  But, as part of this short trip, I also felt the urge to explore what lay beyond Stockholm – off the beaten path Sweden, if you will.  What was the countryside like?  What were its smaller towns like?  How was nature inland (versus on the coast)?

So a plan was concocted for a day trip around the countryside, starting and ending in Stockholm while “circumdriving” (I just made that word up) Lake Mälaren.  The only stop we had planned on doing that day would be on the way back to Stockholm:  Uppsala, a charming college town not far from Stockholm.  But we did realize we would have to stop somewhere around lunchtime to eat, and also we realized we may make short stops should we see something interesting.  Both of those combined when we decided to jump off the highway as we drove west of Stockholm on the E-20 highway when we spotted what seemed a large town in the area:  Eskilstuna.

I will be the first to admit that I had never heard of this town.  Not surprisingly for a non-Swede, I suppose.  Eskilstuna’s population is over 67,000 inhabitants as of 2015 (so larger by 2.5 times than Andorra’s capital which I recently visited!).  The history of the town takes it back to medieval times when an English monk named Eskil made the existing tiny town his home; he was killed by pagan Vikings and he is now a saint buried in a monastery in the area.  By now, it is a very industrial town (at some point it was known as “The City of Steel”) but it was not dirty at all, as one pictures towns with heavy industry (picture Pittsburgh in the 1980s, for example).  We passed a Volvo plant of some sort in getting there and other factories / heavy industry sites.

Its main square was pretty and very spacious but, at the time, I did not see any “café” life.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

The main square of Eskilstuna:  large, clean and empty

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

Looking out onto the square

However, we did find a great pizza shop (Redfellas) on the main square after exploring first the pedestrian shopping street in the heart of the town.  Not a quaint or charming street, just a regular shopping street.  I could see Redfellas being very lively at night given its spaciousness and decor; sadly, I was not staying intown overnight.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

The old building where Redfellas is located

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

At Redfellas

The town’s church, Klosters Kyrka, dating from the 1920s, certainly looked a little different than the ones I am used to and that made it interesting but we skipped checking it out as we were wanting to keep moving on our day trip.  The view towards it was graced by a statue celebrating the workers which made for a great foreground to the picture below.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

Looking towards Klosters Kyrka (Church) with the town’s plaza behind me.

Eskilstuna may not be a tourist destination per se but it was an opportunity to see beyond the well-trodden places in Sweden and peek at a “non-descript” (pardon me, Eskilstunians!) town.


Pin to your travel board for off the beaten path places to explore!

Off the beaten path, Eskilstuna Sweden


Eating Out and Exploring San Sebastian, Spain – Phenomenal!

As I mentioned in my earlier post, one of the goals of our trip to Spain was to visit the lands from which some of my Mom’s ancestors came to Cuba.  San Sebastian (or “Donostia” in the local language), in Spain’s Basque country, was perfectly situated to serve as our base to explore before heading out to Lourdes, France.  But San Sebastian itself was a destination!

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

San Sebastian!

San Sebastian:  charm by the sea

I had always heard about the great cuisine coming out of San Sebastian so it became a key stop at the onset of our trip.  We would stay there two nights, with the day in between being our day to explore the towns and hamlets from which the ancestors came.  That gave us one full afternoon to explore the heart of San Sebastian – and two nights!

It seems it was peak vacation time in early September, which was a bit unexpected, so there were no good hotels close to the famous La Concha Beach or near the Old Town.  However, I was not disappointed with the hotel I found, not even a mile from the old town:  Hotel Astoria.  The hotel’s theme revolved around famous movie actors and directors and had a very modern design.  It was located on a quiet street and had both a full restaurant and a cafe in the lobby.  We did not try the restaurant but did enjoy the cafe for our breakfasts.

Luckily not only were we close to Old Town but it was not hard to find (underground) parking right by the Hotel Maria Cristina or across the river by the Kursaal Center.   Old Town (or Casco Viejo) is the second oldest neighborhood in the city and it is full of bars and eateries – clearly the teeming social center of this great city!

Kursaal, San Sebastian, Donostia, Spain, Basque, travel, exploring, photo

The Kursaal Center (has underground public parking)

When we first visited Old Town, we headed first to the waterfront to check out the beautiful waters of the Mar Cantábrico, or Bay of Biscay after a quick snack and trying a “carajillo,” coffee with liquor (rum, brandy or anything of the sort!).

San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, sea, blue, photo

Beautiful waters surround San Sebastian

San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, sea, blue, photo

Must be some good fish in those waters!

carajillo, coffee, cafe, San Sebastian, Donostia, Spain, Basque, travel, exploring, photo

Carajillo

La Concha, beach, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

La Concha Beach in the background

La Concha, beach, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Bikes a great way to move around

We saw some neat churches (San Vicente, which was closed, and the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus, which charged for entrance so we skipped it).  Lots of neat structures and charming narrow streets all around.

Old Town, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Narrow street in Old Town

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Entering Old Town from the river

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Buildings in Old Town

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Lots of character in this balcony

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Streets of Old Town

Plaza Constitucion, La Concha, beach, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

At Plaza Constitucion

Old Town, Casco Viejo, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, photo

Neat sights – walking “aimlessly” is the best way to explore!

On to the food in San Sebastian: pintxos

Back in Old Town, we meandered through narrow streets.  Kalea (Calle) 31 de Agosto had many eateries offering the famous “pintxos” (like tapas).  We tried pintxos here and there as we kept exploring this part of town which is full of character.  We made it to the other side from which we had a glimpse of La Concha Beach and the rest of the same-named bay.

A distinguished gent (my uncle!) waiting to order while a distinguished lady (my sister) awaits

pintxos, tapas, San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, travel, exploring, photo

Pintxos

A phenomenal meal in San Sebastian can be heavenly

And, as we meandered through the old town, we ran into the restaurant we had made reservations for for the following evening.  As I researched San Sebastian, one of my areas of focus was food.  I wanted to find one of the restaurants that make San Sebastian’s cuisine so well regarded.  After looking at a few places, I settled on Bodegón Alejandro.  Coincidentally, my uncle had done research and had read an article on the newspaper that also mentioned Bodegón Alejandro.  So, that was the place and, luckily, making reservations was super easy:  their website allowed for making them online!

Part of Bodegón Alejandro’s menu

croquetas, croquettes, Bodegon Alejandro, San Sebastian, Michelin, Donostia, food, foodie, travel, turismo, photo

Delicious croquetas were one of our starters

postre, dessert,chocolate, souffle, Bodegon Alejandro, San Sebastian, Michelin, Donostia, food, foodie, travel, turismo, photo

Dessert – phenomenal chocolate soufflé

postre, dessert,, Bodegon Alejandro, San Sebastian, Michelin, Donostia, food, foodie, travel, turismo, photo

Another dessert – torrija with ice cream

The charm of San Sebastian did not only reside in its waters or in the old town – it was a beautiful and livable town all around.  I would love to spend a few months residing there and enjoying this northern Basque city – and maybe with my wonderful travel companions!

San Sebastian, Donostia, Euskadi, Basque, Spain, España, travel, viaje, exploring, sea, blue, photo

Sister, Mom, and Uncle!


If you are planning a trip to Spain, pin this to your travel board!

San Sebastian, Spain, España, food, foodie, travel, Basque, Euskadi, pais vasco

Not Just Skiing in Lech, Austria – Delighting in Après-Skiing too!

Ahh, summertime… perfect time to reminisce about, what else?  Winter!  My time skiing in Lech, Austria to be more precise, fulfilling my dream to ski in the Alps. Yes, the warm, humid days of the Atlanta summer make me long for winter…  Well, I have to say that it is not like we are in the midst of a heat wave (we are under 90F still) but a little drama doesn’t hurt when writing the intro for this post, right?

So, in this post, I want to share of my time this past February skiing in Lech, in the Vorarlberg region of Austria – its westernmost region.  I have skied in Utah, Colorado, the Chilean Andes but had not skied in the Alps – an item in my bucket list.  I needed that to change and the opportunity arose to ski in Austria with a college friend through a cheap fare we found with KLM to cross the Atlantic in style.  After some research and word-of-mouth feedback, Lech seemed a great spot to check out, on the high-end of skiing towns in western Austria.

Driving to Lech

drive, driving, Austria, Lech, Vorarlberg, winter, snow, road

Driving into Lech from tiny Liechtenstein (where we had stopped on the way from Munich – a slight detour to check off my last tiny European state to visit), the scenery along the S16 highway was amazing – trees and slopes covered with fresh snow.  The drive was not too long (2-3 hrs perhaps?) and soon enough we left the highway to get to Lech via Stuben and Zürs.  We hit some cool through-mountain and mountain-side “tunnels” and, eventually, approached Lech, all covered in fresh snow at around the time when the early “quitters” were leaving the slopes.

drive, driving, Austria, Lech, Vorarlberg, winter, snow, road, tunnel
Tunnel through the mountains
drive, driving, Austria, Lech, Vorarlberg, winter, snow, road
The “tunnels” to keep roads passable – and protected
drive, driving, Austria, Lech, Vorarlberg, winter, snow, road
Entering Lech

Lodging in Lech

It took us a bit to find our destination for the first night in Zug, just a couple of kilometers off the main part of Lech.  We had a slight incident whereby our original pension (Stierfall) had overbooked itself and they got us booked in the place next door but that was not all a bad thing as the second place was nicer anyway (Stäfeli, Hotel-Garni).

Zug, Lech, Vorarlberg, church, village, Osterreich, kirche, snow, winter, Alps
View from the hotel

Staying in Zug seemed less than ideal since we could not just walk to Lech (well, we could but the road was narrow, no sidewalks, potentially icy, etc.).  However, either we could drive down/up OR take advantage of the great shuttle buses that operate in the area taking people in and out of Lech to neighboring villages – phenomenal way to keep people off the roads and make things easy!  We had a shuttle stop just down the small hill from our hotel which was cool and made it all easier.

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, church, Zug, tower, kirche, Osterreich
Tiny church right by the shuttle stop in Zug

Due to being high season the week we went (“spring break” in Austria and some other European countries), we were unable to find accommodations for two nights in a row.  So we checked out of the hotel the next day and later that day checked in to our second hotel in Lech.  This time, we were very lucky with another switch-a-roo.  Yes, we had another incident with overbooked places (c’mon Austria!).  But, this time, not only was the place better but it was in PRIME location, pretty much at the end of the slopes that deposit skiers right in the heart of Lech.  All we had to do, was cross the main street and we were at our hotel, the Hotel Tannbergerhof.  It was not only a phenomenal location but the second story suite we were assigned looked right at the end of the slopes and the street below.  Wow.  How I wished I had stayed there a whole week!

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, lift, slope, snow, blue sky, Osterreich
View of the end of the slopes from my hotel window (notice the end is a mogul run)

Another option that I would recommend considering is staying in Oberlech, a series of hotels/inns in the midst of the slopes above the town of Lech (hence the area’s name).  It sure makes it easy to ski when you do not have to deal with shuttle buses and the like (not that I had to from my second hotel intown!).  Plus, easy to go for a quick re-charge nap and keep skiing later in the afternoon!  Oberlech offers plenty of places for refreshments in the middle of the skiing day which was very much to my liking.

Oberlech, Lech, Austria, ski, skiing, slopes
Oberlech area

Eating in Lech

Now, one thing we did not realize is that most people have their dinner at the hotel they stay at and those restaurants have just the tables needed for their guests. It felt like most or all restaurants we found were part of a hotel. If you don’t make reservations ahead of time for any possible open table, you find yourself (like we did) unable to just walk in to a restaurant and get a table. We lucked out eventually as one of the restaurants we walked into had just had a table cancel so we were able to eat a real meal.  At least, hunting for a restaurant allowed us to enjoy exploring the town at night – it was a winter wonderland indeed.

Lech, Vorarlberg, Austria, ski, ski town, snow, night, winter
Lech at night
Lech, Vorarlberg, Austria, ski, ski town, snow, night, winter
In the heart of the town by the Lech River
Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, foodie, food
The meal was worth trekking around town!

For the second night, we made reservations ahead of time. The hotel staff at Tannbergerhof had recommended a couple of places in Oberlech so we followed their advice. It was an adventure… We took the gondola up to the area and then walked trails (sometimes covered in ice at that time of night) roaming around a little lost until we finally found our place. We did a poor job of either listening to OR following the directions several people gave us and, apparently, got very close to the place without realizing it. It was dark and much colder than I expected (we were in higher altitude than in Lech and I was not prepared for that) and I was hungry! Anyway, we found the place eventually to my great relief. The meal, as anywhere else, was simply delicious.  The cool thing is that the staff was not just seasonal workers coming into the area. These were local folks, working the local restaurant near the farms that their family had owned for generations – pretty cool.

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, foodie, food
This warmed me up after the cold hike to the restaurant!

During the day, having lunch was easy as people are out skiing and there are plenty of tables available.  We chose to have lunch in one of the hotels in Oberlech where I enjoyed a phenomenal schnitzel with a glass of wine.  The sun was bright and it was a good break from the skiing.

Schnitzel, lunch, Oberlech, ski, skiing, Lech, Austria, mittagessen
Mmm!!!

And now, skiing Lech!

During that lunch, we met a couple from Munich who has an apartment in a nearby village and they come all the time since it is so close.  They explained how Lech and neighboring villages connect through ski runs/paths and the occasional lift/gondola (to eliminate the need for loading up in a shuttle).  They shared how they spend the whole day traversing the area from place to place skiing without ever walking or taking a shuttle.  Sounds phenomenal to me – wish I had had much more time there to do just that!

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, lift, slope, snow, blue sky
Up towards the first run of the trip!

I had not skied in a few years but found my skiing legs, as usual, pretty quickly.  Blue runs quickly stopped being intimidating.  We went up high for our first run and ended up going slightly off track downhill on a slope between two runs, crossing a long pile of snow.  Don’t know how we got confused and got off the run but it was fun (after I was done with it).

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, lift, slope, snow, blue sky
The side slope that I accidentally skied through – apparently not the only one to do so

It was not to be the only ‘confusion’… At the end of the slopes in Lech, one can take a sharp right turn down a normal run to end up across from my hotel OR one goes straight down a mogul course which is a shorter distance (see earlier photo taken from my hotel room). I had no idea it was a mogul run (blessed ignorance…) and went through it. At first I thought it was just a couple of bumps until I realized where I was. I decided to just go for it as if I knew how to tackle moguls (which, of course, I know because I have watched winter olympics on and off – and I have stayed in Holiday Inns).  I have to say, that I did actually quite well navigating the moguls.  Perhaps some unknown instinct within me?  I am glad I did it – it was fun!

The slopes were usually quite broad and the skiers not typically as rude or aggressive as they can be back home…  OK, some went REALLY fast but you could tell they knew what they were doing and not endangering others.  I will say, though, that most people there seemed to be seasoned skiers vs. the casual once-a-year or once-every-few-years skiers we have at home *myself included* which made me feel safer in my underskilled skier status.  They would know how to navigate around me should I stagger or fall and were not doing non-sensical things.  I had one epic fall and a minor one.  Nothing untoward happened to limbs or bones, thankfully – all good fun!

Après-ski and “during”-ski in Lech

But the best part of this are the stops to refresh oneself.  The first morning, we happened upon a small watering hole up high where a waitress had to help me with a stubborn jacket zipper that would not open (or would it??…).  There I discovered that a beverage of choice is seltzer water with white wine.  I took one of those as I figured the lower alcohol content was better since we were just starting the skiing.

Oberlech, Lech, Austria, ski, skiing, slopes, apres ski
My first stop!

Later on, in Oberlech, we ran into a few places that were hopping with the lucky souls who get to ski there.  One had pumping music and great views so we plopped ourselves down at the bar for a beverage.

Lech, Vorarlberg, ski, skiing, Austria, lift, slope, snow, blue sky
View of Lech from Oberlech (my 2nd hotel in the middle of it all)
Oberlech, Lech, Austria, ski, skiing, slopes, lodging, apres-ski, bar
Incredible setting for a beverage in Oberlech!

When we finished skiing, we ended up at the bar area in front of our hotel, right by the street.  A happening spot, it was right under our suite’s windows.  Being that it is right at the exit of the slopes across the street, the spot was teeming  with folks who had wrapped up their day.  An Aperol spritz was in order as was people-watching.  Ahh… I love skiing and I love doing it somewhere where there is a scene to take in!  Hope to return someday!!

Aperol, spritz, skiing, Lech, Austria, cocktail, refreshment, refreshing, apres-ski, enjoy, good life
My Aperol beverage

——————————————————————————————————

Pin this image to your travel board!!

lech austria skiing, apres-ski, skiing in lech austria
Cheers!

Small European Countries – One Left to Go!

I admit it, I am not ashamed to share it.  It is frivolous and perhaps not terribly inspiring.  Hopefully, not embarrassing.  Or so I tell myself…  (Is there a support group, perhaps?)  Here it is…  I do want to finish the little ones in Europe; the little countries, I mean.  I don’t mean “finish them” as in “destroy them” or have them absorbed by a big neighbor (ahem, Germany…).  I mean just to see them all.  Monaco.  San Marino.  Malta.  Andorra.  Luxembourg (OK, not as small, don’t want to hurt its feelings).  Vatican City.  Liechtenstein.

Before February this year, I had two of those left.  And now there is one…  Before I reveal the one left behind (you must be DYING to know), in February I visited tiny Liechtenstein.  It is as hard to get to it as it is to spell it as it has no major airport.  That means, no direct flight from JFK or Hartsfield.  For me, it was a flight into Munich, Germany and a 3 hr (or so) drive (an easy one, at that).

Liechtenstein is known for… OK, not much.  But perhaps more than anything is because they print beautiful postage stamps.  Oh, oh, has someone told them about “email”?  “Texting”?  “Whatsapp”?  Hmm… rough times ahead?  Perhaps not.  I am sure lots of money is put away there by foreigners and perhaps there are some other reputable industries…

But I surely digress.  (Do I?  Maybe someone can comment and share the wonderful economic engine in the heart of Europe called Liechtenstein.)  Anyway…

We drove in from Germany, trampling into Austria for a little bit before entering Switzerland for an even “littler” bit until we realized we had to pay like $30-40 to get a highway permit to drive in Switzerland (RIP-OFF!).  We quickly turned around and drove the two miles back to the Austrian border and (thanks to a smartphone and GPS) found a free route through Austria to Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein for the cost of a handful of extra miles of driving.  So, THERE, Switzerland.  The oddities of socialist Europe’s highways…

We entered Luxembourg, er, Liechtenstein (who can keep them straight??) after passing through customs (run by Switzerland, actually… another oddity) and made our way to the tiny capital driving through even tinier towns (not really sure if they count as towns or just urban sprawl from Vaduz?).

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

I am heeere!

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Customs into Switzerland

Not too rural really but not densely populated either.  As we got into Vaduz, we saw the castle atop the hill overlooking the town.  The high perch location of that castle may help explain why Liechtenstein has survived as its own entity.  Or not, but I didn’t really read up on it…  I just needed to check it off, you know?

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Castle perched right above Vaduz

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

View of the castle from afar

Anyway, the castle’s vantage point was impressive.  We found a road up and there were some nice neighborhoods on the way up – great spot to live with a view of Liechtenstein and Switzerland in the distance (I think Switzerland charges if you even look at their highways; mercifully for Liechtensteiners, I believe there are no highways in sight from the hill where the castle is.)Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje, palace, castle

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Houses near the caste location

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje, palace, castle

Approaching the castle

We stopped intown and walked around the pedestrian commercial street (got our passport stamped at the tourist office) and ended up at a local restaurant.  Unfortunately, it was past regular lunch hours so we had to settle for a limited menu.  But I had a bowl of goulash that was delicious so I was not complaining!  After that, we said our fond goodbyes to Liechtenstein (auf wiedersehen!) and made our way back to Austria for our next and most phenomenal stop of the trip:  the Alpine ski town of Lech!

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Passport stamp

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Pedestrian shopping street at the feet of the castle

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Around Vaduz, Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Church and Vaduz City Hall (on the right)

Liechtenstein, travel, Vaduz, explore, Samsung Galaxy S7, foto, viaje

Around Vaduz

———————————————-

P.S. – Oh, and which is the lil one I have left to visit?  ANDORRA!  Mental note:  I need to check in with my Spanish friends Mariano and Isabel so I can tag along their next New Year’s ski trip from Madrid to Andorra…

Photos of the Week – Sights of Amsterdam

Amsterdam is such a unique city.  It is like Venice meets… meets… I am not sure what!  It is a charm typical of old cities, of cities by the water, of cities with architecture seen nowhere else, and of cities with a one-of-a-kind type of energy (and I don’t mean that in terms of the red light district!).

I first went to Amsterdam in 1999 when I had business there (most of my time in The Netherlands, though, was actually in The Hague, or Den Haag).  I had not returned to Amsterdam since then (except connecting through its wonderful airport) until earlier this year when I overnighted there on my way back home after skiing in Austria.

I took advantage of the limited time to walk out and about at night, and then do a quick morning walk before heading to the airport.  Though a short visit, it took me back to 1999 and it made me re-discover why I like the city so much.  I wish I had had time to visit the museums I have never gotten to explore (back in 1999, I wasn’t touristing – had no time for that!), and be a little more aimless in the walking around.  But, hopefully, I will have another chance!  In the meantime, here are some photos from my short visit!

 Night photos of Amsterdam

Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7 Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7 Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Notice the not-straight door and windows on the right!

Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Right outside of the train station

Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Train station

Amsterdam, night, Netherlands, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Royal Palace

Day Photos of Amsterdam

Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7 Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7 Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7 Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7

Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7, bike, train station

By the train station – a bunch of bikes!

Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7, red door

Red doorways – cool

Amsterdam, Netherlands, architecture, Holanda, Holland, fotos, photos, travel, viaje, Samsung Galaxy S7, canal, boat

ilivetotravel, photo, champagne, business class, KLM

OK, not a photo of Amsterdam but of me leaving it in style!

%d bloggers like this: