travel - ilivetotravel's travel log

Perito Moreno Glacier: A Most Fortunate Re-Visit

22 April 2015 by Raul 1 Comment

The day after our memorable hike around Fitz Roy, we got to visit the famous Perito Moreno glacier an hour plus from the town of El Calafate, Argentina. I got to visit Perito Moreno back in December 2010 and never expected to ever come back, except this Trekking for Kids trek brought me there!

There were some key differences in this visit which made it certainly worthwhile to return. Starting with the fact I was about four years older and that my cell phone camera was much more advanced too…

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The side facing the bigger arm of the Lago Argentino

Furthermore and more significantly, this time, I got on a boat to see the glacier from another perspective: from the south side of the Peninsula Magallanes. It was neat to get to the glacier from one of its sides and from water level where the height of the glacier is much more impressive than from the visitor center viewing platforms. As pure good luck, the skies cooperated with creating a nice backdrop for some of the pictures as you can see.

The dark skies and the mountains were the perfect backdrop

The shades of ice blue were stunning

The obligatory portrait of the artist…

The Perito Moreno glacier is known for its progression crossing the full length of the body of water at its feet to “kiss” the other side of the lake. Eventually, the water creates a tunnel under the “front” of the glacier and, eventually, the bridge that forms over that tunnel collapses, a moment worth watching except that it takes years for that to happen and it is not really predictable as it can vary on how long (years) it takes. In any case, when I visited in 2010, I saw the bridge/tunnel and, now, in 2015, I saw the post-bridge scenario. Pretty cool.

2010 – The bridge

2015 – No bridge!

Visiting Perito Moreno requires the drive over to the visitor center. Once you get there, there are facilities (coffee shop, clean bathrooms, and -of course- a gift shop). But the main attraction is right in front of you. I was impressed in 2010 and continued to be in 2015 with the great job done in building viewing platforms to appreciate the glacier in front of you from different angles and from different heights via a network of sidewalks, staircases (“pasarelas“) and viewing platforms.

The start of the platforms

There is an elevator shaft (appropriately designed to mimic one of the “icicles” of the glacier) that can take those with limitations a little bit further than they may be able to go on their own; additionally, to get to that spot, there are ramps (as opposed to stairs).

The tower is the elevator shaft

Of course, there is great signage explaining the various routes to take along the staircase network and offering advice/warnings as well as naming all the mountains behind the glacier.

Indeed – keep your ears open for falling ice – pretty cool!

No worries, I did plenty of that!

No matter how far you get to go and explore, this glacier is truly a marvel of nature worth the drive to see firsthand. Fortunately, I got to do that twice!

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OK, I had to play with the Samsung…

Filed Under: Argentina, Travel Journal Tagged With: argentina, glacier, nature, Olympus, Patagonia, Perito Moreno, photo, South America, travel, wonder

Goðafoss: The Waterfalls of the Gods and Water Art

15 April 2015 by Raul 4 Comments

Goðafoss, (“Godafoss” for ease of my typing!), or “Waterfall of the Gods“, is one of the must-see waterfalls in Iceland. The Godafoss waterfalls are about 36 ft high (12 m) and are located at the Skjálfandafljót River. It is located somewhere between the northern towns of Akureyri and Husavik. More precisely, it is on the ring road going east from Akureryi, right after the road to Husavik branches off (route 85). The story goes that a key Icelandic chieftain in the year 1,000 AD was trying to decide whether Icelanders would adopt Christianity. After deciding in the affirmative, he returned home and threw his images of the pre-Christianity pagan gods into the waterfall and, hence, the name for the waterfalls.

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The waterfall from the highway

The water was gushing generously, as one would expect a proper waterfall would do. Perhaps this time in June was still a time of heavy melt?

Fast-flowing!

Yours truly

Looking from the waterfall back towards the road along one of the trails

Majestic!

The main part of the waterfall

Not only was the waterfall impressive but the flow over the one closest to me drew my eye as the following pictures attest… I need to figure out how to turn some of these into neat art pieces for my home!

Filed Under: Europe, Iceland, Travel Journal Tagged With: art, Canon EOS Rebel, flow, Godafoss, Iceland, Olympus, photo, travel, water, waterfall

Can’t Beat Whale Watching in Iceland!

7 April 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

A trip to Iceland without whale watching would just be missing something – it would just be wrong. Therefore, on my trip to there last summer, whale watching was part of the agenda though, initially, I was not sure it was my top priority (I was wrong!). As we were going to spend time up north (in Akureyri), we had easy access to a larger fishing town called Husavik, purportedly, one of the best places to whale watch in Europe.

We drive over there to catch a morning boat and spent a good three hours spotting minke and humpback whales. We did not see any blue whales. The morning started slow as we were crossing the bay but, once we were more in open sea (still not far from land as you can see in the pictures), that’s when the show began (and don’t miss the photos of the scenery at the end!).

It was fun to see the whales come up for air a few times and then go down for minutes before re-appearing elsewhere. As you can imagine, there is not just one boat out there so there is a little bit of watching what the other boats are doing as the boats give chase to the whales (or, rather, where they think the whales will re-surface). We had good luck (and/or a good crew) because we got close enough to these giants.

Here is a sequence of one of the whales:

And another sequence with the whale blowing through the hole:

Finally, on the sequences, one that shows how close the boats get to the whales (or, is it the whales to the boats??):

Of course, the magic is done mostly by the crew as this picture shows:

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The lookouts

Not only was the whale spotting and watching great fun but the scenery was breathtaking too.

A few tips

It may be cold/windy so go ready. Additionally, wearing something waterproof would be a good idea though we did not get wet. Some boats will give you a jacket (notice the pictures with people on a given boat wearing the same color!).
If things go well, you will be close enough to the whales with a regular camera but a moderate zoom can be helpful. The zoom built-in into regular cameras will do the trick.
Bring a snack if you think you will get hungry in the three hours. At the end of our tour, they passed hot chocolate around which was nice.
Don’t stress over getting a “great” spot on the boat. There should be plenty of good sight lines during the tour.
We did not experience any rough seas or anything that could really make us seasick – the waters were calm. However, there is no telling how the seas may vary due to weather or month so check ahead and go prepared if you tend to feel seasick.

So, pretty neat tour – I highly recommend it!!

——– More on Iceland ——–

My itinerary for my week visit to Iceland

A stroll around Reykjavik

Hallgrímskirkja Church in Reykjavik

Þingvellir: Where History and Nature Meet in Iceland!

The Blue Lagoon

Goðafoss: The Waterfalls of the Gods

A Northern Town: Akureyri

Iceland’s South Shore: The Dyrhólaey Peninsula and Vik

Postcards from Iceland: Dalvík

Filed Under: Europe, Iceland Tagged With: blue whales, humpback, Husavik, Iceland, mink, photos, travel, whale watching

Colonia del Sacramento: Uruguay’s Historical Gem

26 March 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

When I started to plan my trip to Argentina for my trek, I thought maybe I’d arrive a couple of days early and do something other than eat and walk in Buenos Aires. Don’t get me wrong, nothing wrong with those things! Those are indeed very noble activities in my book in that great city. But I was looking to just do something different. I looked at one-day or half-day tours, and I looked at museums and other similar attractions. One thing caught my eye due to my eternal wanderlust: Uruguay was just across the river and it would be really easy to cross by boat.

I was aware of Montevideo and Punta del Este. The latter seemed to require an overnight. Montevideo seemed a tad boring but I thought, “why not? it’s the capital?” And then I ran into Colonia del Sacramento (or simply, “Colonia”). I had never heard of this place. Quick research led me to find out it was listed in “1,000 Places to See before You Die” so I had to learn more.

Funny how history runs its course…

Colonia del Sacramento was established by the Portuguese across the river from another small town called Buenos Aires in the late 17th century. The town was part of a ping-pong match in terms of who ruled it: Spain, Portugal, Spain, Portugal, …, Brazil, and then independent Uruguay. Must have been exhausting! The modern town’s old quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has a population of roughly 25,000 folks.

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French map dating from the 1740s made into a mural

Getting to Colonia del Sacramento

Certainly one can get there by road from Montevideo but, if you are in Buenos Aires, the Buquebus ferry leaving from Puerto Madero is quite efficient and convenient. There are fast ferries that make the crossing in one hour (the river, at that point, is really no longer a river but the sea meeting the river) and slow-poke boats that make the crossing in three hours. Needless to say, three hours on a boat when I can do it in one was a no-brainer…. The one hour ferry was at 8:30 AM so that was a bit of a sacrifice since there was a line or two to make at the port… But it was the right choice. On the way back, since we wanted to have dinner in Buenos Aires, we took the ferry that arrived around 6 PM. One thing to mind is that there IS a time zone difference between Uruguay and Argentina (crazy).

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The walkway to the ferry in the port in Buenos Aires

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Welcome to Uruguay!

Oh, and another thing to mind is that you MUST bring with you the reciprocity fee receipt for Argentina (if you are a U.S. citizen)… When you leave Uruguay, right at the port in Colonia, you will go through BOTH Uruguayan and Argentine immigration officers. When you get to the Argentine officer, if you do not have it, you are in a for a nervous wait to see what the officer will do with you. No, it did not happen to me, but it happened to a friend. Note: the other friend hanging with her volunteered to the officer “Oh, I don’t have mine either” – lol! Somehow, the officer did not care about her but did about the other one.

The town – ruins

The thing to see in Colonia is the old quarter. When you exit the very modern port facility, you go out of the port and go on that same street uphill and, eventually, you will hit the main street where you will make a left and walk for like five minutes before you hit the old quarter. (There is a tourism info office outside the main building of the port but I did not go in.)

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The old quarter is on the left side of the map

The old buildings have been beautifully kept up or maintained and the quarter is easy to walk around in. The old quarter is in a peninsula so you can’t go too far without hitting the water except in one direction (as you can see in the map above). The old quarter has ruins of fortifications from those centuries when the European powers were trying to take control of the river. You can also see parts of the foundation of the former Portuguese governor’s house and ruins of the old convent. Most of these ruins are, one could say, ruins of ruins but, nevertheless, they help understand how the town was set up and defended.

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Ruins of San Francisco Convent in front of the lighthouse

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Ruins of Bastión de San Miguel

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Ruins of the Portuguese Governor House in the Plaza de Armas

The town – buildings and structures

There old church, the Basilica del Sagrado Sacramento (Basilica of the Sacred Sacrament) was heavily restored starting in the 1950s. It is simple in its design and decor.

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Basilica del Sagrado Sacramento

Inside of the basilica

The town is clearly oriented to visitors from Uruguay and abroad with many cafés, restaurants, gifts shops, and art shops.

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Local shop

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Outdoor café near the basilica

Eclectic café chair and table

But the best this charming town offers is just the simple yet beautiful architecture of the streets in or near its old quarter. A peaceful setting graced by history and architecture!

House near the lighthouse

Shop in Calle de los Suspiros

House in Calle de los Suspiros

Detail of the local architecture by the Plaza de Armas

Home

Colonia, Sacramento, Uruguay, colonial, UNESCO, World Heritage, Places to See, travel, photo, architecture, trees

A local street right outside the heart of the old quarter

Lunch time in Colonia!

Of course, we stopped at a local restaurant for lunch where I enjoyed an incredible pasta dish and we all enjoyed trying Uruguayan red wine – an unexpected treat (later followed by a cup of Freddos ice cream!)

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Lunch was this delicious butternut squash gnocchi in a pancetta cream sauce!

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Surprised at how good the local wine was!

A resident enjoying summer…

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Dog days of summer in Colonia are awesome!

Filed Under: South America, Travel Journal, Uruguay Tagged With: architecture, Buquebus, Colonia, history, lighthouse, pasta, Rio de la Plata, ruins, Sacramento, travel, Uruguay, Wine

Fitz Roy and Glacier National Park: Nature at Its Best

23 March 2015 by Raul 8 Comments

My recent trek with Trekking for Kids in Patagonia, the southern part of the continental Americas, had two components:

A day hike and a glacier visit in the Argentinian side of Patagonia, and
A 5-day hike in the Chilean side of Patagonia, including a glacier hike.

Here, I will cover the day hike in Argentina. A later post will cover the glacier visit to Perito Moreno glacier and further posts will cover the 5-hike along the W circuit in the Torres del Paine Park in Chile.

Hiking in Argentina: Fitz Roy and its siblings

The day hike in Argentina took us to a beautiful setting north of the town of El Calafate in the large southern provide of Santa Cruz: the National Glaciers Park and Reserve (Parque y Reserva Nacional Los Glaciares). After landing in El Calafate from Buenos Aires (about 3 hour+ flight time), we headed to the small town of El Chaltén (established in 1985 mainly to serve as a border town and entry point to the area we were going to hike in). From El Chaltén we would start our day hike anchored on the majestic Fitz Roy peak. What makes this area magnificent is not just Fitz Roy (which used to be called El Chaltén) but the series of peaks that go with it along the glaciers that sit in the spaces in between.

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The peaks and the town of El Chaltén as we approached at the end of a day

Approaching Fitz Roy taking Senda El Pilar

We left our hotel, El Barranco, on a vehicle to take us to the entry point for our hike. It was not the typical entry point as we had to cut through a small hotel (Hostería El Pilar) that sits right by one of the entrances to the park (we had permission to do so!). We reached the trail we were looking for, Senda El Pilar, which we took and followed the Río Blanco facing first Torre Eléctrica and its glacier, then moving on to see the Marconi glacier.

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Torre Eléctrica initially blocks full view of Fitz Roy upon starting the hike

There are quite a few spots to stop for great pictures but Fitz Roy and its siblings are ever-present. In no time, we got to a point with a great view of Fitz Roy and the Piedras Blancas (“white rocks”) glacier:

One of the great views from Senda El Pilar

Gotta play with the camera’s features sometime…

Headed to Poincenot camp

Enjoying a break and the view (Fitz Roy is the tallest and Poincenot peak second tallest)

Soon after that, at Poincenot camp, Senda El Pilar would end and we would then turn to take Senda Fitz Roy to return to El Chaltén. Poincenot has camping grounds that have latrines if people prefer using those. From Poincenot, trekkers can go up to Laguna de los Tres but we did not do that portion.

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Markers were strategically placed along the route

We proceed to take Senda Fitz Roy for the second and longer part of our hike. On that trail, we hit the Capri Lake where some enjoyed cooling off their feet – or even a quick dip!

Lake Capri and the peaks behind it

This was one of the last great vantage points for admiring the peaks and glaciers. We entered different terrain as we proceeded to the last part of our hike.

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Along Senda Fitz Roy

Along Senda Fitz Roy: these rocks are much taller than they appear – we saw rock climbers on it

Once we finished the trail, we just walked right into town!

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Senda Fitz Roy leads us back to El Chaltén!

Our hike had been around 15 kms and it took us around 7 hours with a few nice stops along the way. I highly recommend this hike – not strenuous but moderate and with the amazing views I have shown you here (and others I did not!).

Filed Under: Argentina, Hiking, South America Tagged With: argentina, Chaltén, Fitz Roy, glacier national park, hiking, parque nacional glaciares, Patagonia, photo, Samsung Galaxy, travel, trekking

Buenos Aires Re-Visited (Again)

19 March 2015 by Raul 1 Comment

When I sat down to write this post, my first thought was: “What can I possibly write about Buenos Aires that has not been written before?” Good question.

My visit there was triggered by its being the location of two children’s homes we were going to help via a trek to Patagonia with Trekking for Kids. I was not disappointed in that being the location as my prior visits to Buenos Aires, even the overnight trip one, were always good: good city, good vibe, good food, and good wine.

I decided to go two days ahead of the official start of the group trip so that I would have some time to tool around some. Tooling around soon turned out to include a day trip to nearby Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, across the river from Buenos Aires.

So, I turned my attention to determining where to stay. I had already paid a good bit to be able to trek in Patagonia after the time in Buenos Aires so I was looking for a good alternative to just paying a hotel room. Two others from the trek decided to come early too so, immediately, I decided that an apartment rental was the best option. Using FlipKey, I found a great 2 bedroom apartment in Palermo on a high floor and with some good views. Mercifully, it had A/C as it was summer in Buenos Aires. (FlipKey did a great job of showing me apartments based on my criteria which included not only location and price point but availability of A/C and wifi!)

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My room at the apartment: nice corner and a balcony!

The landlord was very friendly and flexible but was spot on on restaurant recommendations – bonus! And when I looked out of the balcony, I recognized the small square by the building as one I had seen on HGTV’s House Hunters International a couple of years ago.

After the couple of days on our own, we moved to the hotel were the group was going to stay while we worked with the children’s homes outside of Buenos Aires in Moreno. The hotel was located in Recoleta, another nice neighborhood in Buenos Aires. The hotel was located across from the Recoleta cemetery where Evita is buried. I lucked out with the room assignment and had a great view of the cemetery and could even see the ocean, er, the river.

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The Recoleta Cemetery

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Typical scene at the Recoleta cemetery

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Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar right at the cemetery’s entrance

I had visited the cemetery in 1991 but still went back in to look for Evita. Of course, there is a sign indicating where the famous’ tombs are but if you look for Evita under “P” for Perón, you will not find her. You must look under Duarte, her maiden name.

Evita, Eva, Peron, Argentina, Buenos Aires, Duarte, Recoleta, cemetery, travel, photo, Olympus

The family mausoleum where Evita’s remains rest

Eva looms large in the Argentine psyche – and on the side of buildings too…

Evita, Eva, Peron, Argentina, Buenos Aires, building, travel, photo, Olympus

That’s Evita up there

The other plus for the hotel -and another thing that loomed large for me- is that it was a few storefronts down from my favorite ice cream place in Argentina: Freddos, first discovered by me in 1991!

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I could not even wait to snap a photo before taking a bite (or 3)

Oh, the food in Buenos Aires…

Maybe the city should be renamed “Buena Comida”, instead of “Buenos Aires”… In my time in Buenos Aires, I probably gained weight. The likely contributors certainly included my almost daily Freddo’s ice cream cup but it also included the incredible beef, pastries, desserts, and wines enjoyed at places like Cabaña Las Lilas (which serves some of the highest quality of beef I have ever had as well as an incredible appetizer plate), Campo Bravo (where we enjoyed a highly diverse plate of cow components…), El Trapiche (a locals place with not only great beef but amazing pasta), and even Biking Buenos Aires (a bike tour that provided delicious pastries during our break)!

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The appetizer plate at Cabaña Las Lilas was a home run!

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The parrillada at Campo Bravo: name that part

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Butternut squash stuffed pasta with an outstanding blue cheese sauce

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Pastries served as a snack during the bike ride

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Mate cups

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Don’t forget dessert: this beauty courtesy of Cabaña Las Lilas

A place to stroll around – and bike around!

Buenos Aires is such a walkable city. Trees and parks everywhere and, as I shared before, PLENTY-O monuments in this South American metropolis. Walking down Ave. Libertador, which is bordered by a park between it and the river, is a good way to stretch the legs after an overnight flight – or after a massive lunch on beef and wine… #justsayin

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Ave. Libertador is good for walking, jogging or riding!

One thing I had not contemplated to do is in Buenos Aires is to ride bicycles. I mean, ride a bicycle in a large metropolis in Latin America? Nuts, right?? Well, let me tell you, it was so much fun and, actually, safe! I did not realize it but Buenos Aires has built bike lanes in some parts of town which meant that about 80% of the bike tour I did with Biking Buenos Aires was on bike lanes. For about 13 of us, we had the main guide who shared a lot of great information about the sights, and two additional guides who supported the group, handled crossing intersections, and were just great guys.

I had never visited La Boca (more on it later) and got to re-visit the Plaza de Mayo and ride around the Casa Rosada. We rode around Puerto Madero were we had a snack. And then we hung out at the bike tour office to eat delicious empanadas that we had bought. Enjoy these final pictures of what we saw during my bike tour and don’t forget to eat and explore to your hearts’ content in incredible Buenos Aires!

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The Buenos Aires Cathedral in the back and the old Cabildo on the left

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The Women’s Bridge by Calatrava in Puerto Madero

Filed Under: Argentina, Good Eats and Drinks, South America, Travel Journal Tagged With: argentina, beef, bike tour, Buenos Aires, churros, Evita, food, foodie, foodporn, pasta, Plaza de Mayo, Recoleta, travel

Essaouira: A Surprise on the Atlantic Coast of Morocco

20 January 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

When I decided to go to Morocco, my images of the country were more of what I encountered when I got to Marrakesh (though Marrakesh was so pretty that I didn’t expect every town in the country to look like that). But, after an overnight in Marrakesh, we left the next morning to the coastal town of Essaouira (once known as Mogador a long time ago and pronounced something like “Ah swear” as the final vowel sounds silent to English speakers). I had signed up to do my third trek with Trekking for Kids to help improve the lives of orphaned or at-risk children around the world and the center where we were going to work was located in this seaside town. (Check out the work done at Bayti Centre here.)

The town of Essaouira – not the Morocco I expected

Upon arriving in Essaouira, it felt different. That was likely due to it being a coastal town with nice beaches and the accompanying tourism infrastructure (I suspect the main source of tourists is domestic followed perhaps by those from neighboring Arab or European countries). It looked clean and was not too crowded. The town, currently with about 70,000 inhabitants, was a fort originally established by the Portuguese centuries ago and was coveted by all major European powers. The town proper was begun to be built in the 18th century by Mohammed III. I learned after leaving that scenes of the movie “Othello” by Orson Wells were filmed in the streets of the city.

Essaouira, Morocco, beach, palm tree, Star Wars, travel, photo

No, those are not Star Wars characters but palm trees held while they grow so they don’t blow away

We got to our hotel, the Riad Zahra Morgador, and I was very pleased. It was beautiful and the staff very friendly. I enjoyed our stay there in every way, except the wifi only really worked in the lobby.

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A welcome treat!

Riad Zahra Morgador, Essaouira, Morocco, room, hotel, travel, photo

The room I stayed at, spacious and comfortable

The staircase at the Riad

Did I mention the pool guest?

Among the many surprises was the climate. Of course, I expected being on the coast meant sea breezes and slightly cooler temperatures than Marrakesh (which had hovered round 100 F when I was there). But they were much cooler, like in the low 70s for THE HIGH! A strong sea breeze contributed to actually feeling a little cold even before the sun set as we walked along the beaches one day. And on the beaches for the visitors, there are camels… for the ride. Some of my fellow trekkers decided to try their hand at riding a camel but first… one must successfully get on one!

Essaouira’s Old Medina

Another big surprise was the general personality, if you will, of the town. People were not all over you like in Marrakesh. They were more relaxed, I’d say. Even in the market (or “souk”), I didn’t feel hounded. People would certainly invite you to look at their wares, etc. but once you stepped way or said no, they were very respectful. Given my temperament, this was more conducive for me to actually engage in more meaningful dialogue with store clerks than I would otherwise be inclined to be. It led to a more enjoyable experience for sure. It also led to me buying more as I normally shy away from aggressive sales tactics (which I understand are normal in some places).

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Colorful wares!

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And more color and patterns

I found it fascinating to see guys pushing these massive carts loaded with fruit through the throngs of people – masters of their craft! I enjoyed walking around the Old Medina where I felt very safe so I could admire the details of the architecture around.

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Pharmacy near the land-side gate into the Old Medina

A sweet tooth is always one in the U.S. or in Morocco!

However, all is not architecture and fruit carts. A stop at a local patisserie on the edge of the Old Medina towards the beach (Pátisserie Driss) delivers delicious sweets and coffee!

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Ahhhh!!!

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Mmm…

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Double mmm…!

Essaouira’s old walls

On my first day, we explored the North Bastion with its old Portuguese cannons and the sea walls. On another day, we got to spend time along the South Bastion next to Bab Marrakesh (the gate to Marrakesh from the walled Old Medina) where I took some of the sunset pictures shown later in this post.

ramparts, Essaouira, North Bastion, Old Medina, Morocco, travel, photo, Olympus

The Old Medina sea wall (ramparts) are now the perfect setting for shops

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Cannons along the sea wall

Trekking for Kids, Essaouira, North Bastion, Old Medina, Morocco, travel, photo, Olympus

The group of Trekking for Kids trekkers at the North Bastion

And the sunset photos…

Essaouira, Morocco, Old Medina, travel, photo, gate, Samsung Galaxy

Approaching the Old Medina at dusk

Old Medina, city walls, sunset, Essaouira, Morocco, market, goods, colorful, travel, photo, Olympus

City walls and the Old Medina as seen at sunset from the South Bastion

Old Medina, city walls, sunset, Essaouira, Morocco, market, goods, colorful, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Sunset over the Old Medina from the South Bastion

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Sunset along the beach – and me

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Photobombing my sunset picture…

So, all around, Essaouira was a pleasant surprise; different than the Morocco I expected. Here is to good surprises!!!

Filed Under: Africa, Morocco, Travel Journal Tagged With: bastion, blue door, camel, Essaouira, market, Morocco, Old Medina, photo, ramparts, riad zahra, souk, sunset, sweets, travel

Santiago de Compostela: Food, Charm, and “New” Family

15 January 2015 by Raul 4 Comments

I wrote earlier about my arrival in Santiago de Compostela as a Camino pilgrim and the activities related to the end of the pilgrimage (getting the Compostela certificate, Pilgrims’ Mass, etc.). Though my stay in Santiago was brief (less than 24 hours due to needing to bring the group back to Madrid), there were some noteworthy things to share about my brief second visit to this incredible city in northwest Spain‘s Galicia…

Food

As ANYWHERE in Spain, food is spectacular. In Santiago, I had a quick lunch at a local tapas bar before going to meet relatives. I love tapas bars. These are not the unreasonable facsimiles in many U.S. cities that offer tapas. I loved sitting at the bar and looking at the tapas on display (salivating at, to be more accurate) and then making my choices. That and an adult beverage made for a quick and delicious lunch.

A splendid array

One of many had…

Later that evening, after dinner with my group, a couple of us took off in a chase for some hot chocolate and “churros” (fried sticks of dough and sugar; a favorite of mine from my childhood). Let me tell you, this hot chocolate is not of the watery style. It is THICK – and delicious.

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Churros and hot chocolate – the real reason the pilgrims came!

Great vibe to the town – charming architecture and streets

The great Cathedral of Santiago is not the only main architectural piece in this city. I love its side streets with or without arcades and the many small and big plazas all around. In fact, it is the whole town, not just the Cathedral or the plaza in front of it that is a World Heritage Site!

Plaza de Platerias, south facade, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Hanging out at Praza de Platerías along the south face of the Cathedral

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University building facing the north side of the Cathedral

Dakar, Santiago de Compostela, café, architecture, travel, food, photo

I ate at this café called Dakar 20 years before!

Santiago de Compostela, café, architecture, travel, food, photo

Small plaza and cafés near the Cathedral

The grand plaza in front of the Cathedral is named Praza do Obradoiro, which best I know means plaza of the workshop. It is large and pretty plain except for the buildings around it: the Cathedral, a palace, and a hostel built by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand, back in 1492!

Plaza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, architecture, travel,photo, Canon EOS Rebel, arcade

Entering Praza do Obradoiro from the northeast corner

Plaza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, architecture, travel,photo, Catholic Monarchs, inn, Olympus

The inn built by the Catholic Monarchs, now a parador

Plaza del Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, España, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Looking around the Praza do Obradoiro – Rajoy Palace

From here, once can admire the façade of the Cathedral (which was undergoing repairs/restoration) and then go into town in any number of directions. The site of the Cathedral has been the site of a church since the 9th century. Construction of the current church began in 1075 (!) and the church was consecrated in 1211 – THAT is patience! Of course, it has been added to in the many centuries since. It looks like a massive complex.

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, façade, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

The massive west façade of the Cathedral

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Looking closer at the main façade ‘s exposed towers

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the Cathedral from the side

We stayed at a monastery-seminary called Hospedería San Martín Pinario next to the Cathedral but not within the Praza do Obradoiro – great location! The rooms, as can be expected, are spartan but clean and functional. Aside of the massive size of the building, I was surprised at the VERY wide hallways. I wonder why they made them like that?!

Hospederia San Martin, Santiago de Compostela, hotel, seminary, monastery, travel, photo, Olympus, spartan

Room at the Hospedería

One of the massive hallways, this one in the lobby

And the family connection

I mentioned meeting relatives earlier. The story behind that is that my great-grandfather was born right outside of Santiago in a rural village named Bastavales (made famous in Spain in a song). I had visited the hamlet 20 years earlier but, unprepared and not having a car, I got to see the church where he likely was baptized and walked past houses in which he and other relatives likely lived. Years later, I made contact with the parish to see about getting a copy of the records of his baptism, etc. and got some good information, courtesy of the local priest. I guess he told some of my great-grandfather’s local relatives about my inquiries – years later they reached out to me and we got to meet by letters, email and a phone call. So, I made it my purpose to go meet them in this trip. After the tapas lunch, I headed to a house in Bastavales using a taxi. Back in 1994, I had taken a bus and had taken a while. Now, with a brand new highway, it took about 15 minutes to get there. Sweet.

It was really neat to meet one of my grandmother’s younger cousins (only two were alive at this point; my grandmother had been born in Cuba and never got to go to Spain so she never met any of her Spanish relatives), a lovely lady with blue eyes named Flora.

My grandmother’s cousin and her granddaughter (my 3rd cousin?)

I also met one of her sons and two of her grandchildren. She shared some family history and showed me some photos. Also, she pointed at a distance at the house where my great-grandfather had been born. I only had a couple of hours to spare and they did not have a car readily available so I had to be satisfied with having seen the house from a distance. I also saw the church I had visited 20 years earlier and noticed that I had walked in front of the houses she was pointing to after I got off the bus and walked a few kilometers to get to the church…

vines, green, Bastavales, Galicia, Spain, photo, Olympus

The side garden of their house has vines! Beautiful spot

wine press, Bastavales, vineyard, Galicia, Spain, photo, travel, wood, Olympus

Showing me the old wine press they used to use – pretty cool!

This week some other relatives have contacted me and have sent me photos they scanned of my grandmother. Apparently, she kept in touch with them (though her dad died in Cuba when she was a toddler) and sent them pictures of her as a young woman. They actually sent me a copy of the little “souvenir” with her baby picture issued when she was baptized; her dad must have sent it to Spain! I realized with the info they gave me that she had been sending pictures and writing to them because her grandparents were still alive. I was glad to hear she had some contact with them.

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This was a special way to end the Camino: a pilgrimage to meet relatives my grandmother never met. I love Santiago de Compostela and now I must return to meet these other relatives that have given me such a wonderful gift. And this will give me more time to explore Santiago more and keep enjoying tapas, hot chocolate and churros!

Filed Under: Europe, Good Eats and Drinks, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bastavales, cathedral, churros, Espagne, España, Galicia, hot chocolate, Plaza del Obradoiro, Praza da Quintana, Praza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, spain, St. James tomb, tapas, travel

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 7 from Lavacolla to Santiago!

12 January 2015 by Raul 9 Comments

The big day arrived on Day 7. On this day, we departed on the Camino for the last time as we left lovely Pazo Xan Xordo to enter Santiago de Compostela as many have done over the last 1,000 years on this ancient pilgrimage for the final 2.5 hours of our trek. We were excited but were also on a schedule as we needed to arrive on-time to attend Pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela at noon. Since this Mass gets packed, we wanted to be there at minimum 30 minutes in advance. We wanted to sit on the nave on the side of the altar in case they used the “botafumeiro.” They did not, to our great disappointment, but if they had, it would have flown right over us!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

Waiting for Pilgrim’s Mass to start

Monte de Gozo

But I get ahead of myself. So we left Lavacolla sharp at 8 AM and made one stop at the impressive Monte de Gozo on the outskirts of town. It was from this vantage point that pilgrims would get their first glimpse of the final destination. “Gozo” means happiness which is exactly what the pilgrims would feel at this point after so many months/years of hiking their way across Europe and Spain. I was more impressed by the monument built here and taking pictures of the sun showing through the top of the monument.

The monument at Monte de Gozo

Each side of the monument commemorates something different

Monte de Gozo, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Loved catching the sun through the glass cross

The great arrival in Santiago de Compostela

At some point in the walk (I think it was on a big downhill), we stopped being “outside” of Santiago and entered the outlying sectors of the city.

Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

One of the last villages we passed before entering Santiago proper (after Monte de Gozo)

We crossed a long bridge over a highway and we felt like this was the final stretch. OK, it was a long final stretch and we did stop at a café to make a final pit stop and to get a snack (not sitting down). We knew once we hit Santiago, we were likely not going to get a break until noon Mass ended so this was a smart choice!

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Welcome to Santiago de Compostela!

As we got closer, it seemed the streets got narrower which kept making us more eager to finally get there. I was eager to see the reaction of my fellow trekkers when they first saw the Cathedral (I had been there in 1994 already).

Getting the Compostela and Pilgrim’s Mass

Our plan was to hit town and immediately head to the Pilgrim’s Office (on rua Vilar) to get our “Compostela,” the certificate granted to those who complete the Camino. A nice volunteer from Ireland named (of course) Mary helped English speakers with instructions to be ready to step inside and get the Compostela; a few questions were asked and the credencial (passport) was briefly examined.

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Pilgrims filling out their papers while waiting for their Compostela

It was an exhilarating moment to get the Compostela (after standing in line about 25 minutes) even if I briefly embarrassed myself by telling the lady that she had gotten my first name wrong. She politely told me that they write the first name in Latin not in its regular form… As soon as I got to the hotel later, I took photos of the Compostela just in case something happened to it on the rest of the trip!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

The big moment of getting the Compostela!

We had been told we could not take our backpacks in for Mass so we then proceeded to drop off our backpacks next to the Pilgrim’s Office for 2 euros. We then were free to make our way to the Cathedral but, first, we took quick group and individual photos in the Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral.

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Our Trekking for Kids group posing in front of the Cathedral

We then moved in to claim our spots for Mass and we took turns while we waited for the start of Mass to go behind the main altar to see the tomb of Santiago (St. James), after all, all this started because of him!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

Another detail of the interior

St. James’ tomb

Details from inside the Cathedral

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, altar, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

A side altar

During Mass, in the part where they greet the pilgrims, they mention groups by name. I had told them at the Pilgrim’s Office that we were a group, Trekking for Kids, from the U.S. and Canada and it was neat to hear us greeted during Mass.

We had heard that because 2014 was the 800th anniversary of St. Francis doing the Camino, the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis), not far from the Cathedral was issuing another certificate to pilgrims (the “Cotolaya“) so we went later that day to claim it (at this point, we would have taken any certificate issued to pilgrims, I think!).

Church of San Francisco, St. Francis, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Walking towards the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis)

Main altar at the Church of San Francisco

So our week-long trek along this millennial pilgrimage came to a glorious end. It was a unique experience and I loved returning to Santiago de Compostela of which I will write some more in another post. I have some suggestions for those considering the Camino. Keep an eye out for that post!

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What to Do in Santa Barbara? Check out El Presidio

8 January 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

I have been to California a few times but mainly to the areas around San Francisco and, less so, around Los Angeles (plus a business trip to Sacramento). This past summer, though, I got to sample some of the “other” Californias. I got to spend a few days in lovely Santa Barbara. We had a nice list of things to do in Santa Barbara and I have to say that what I got to see there captivated me. It also makes me want to explore other places in California that I have always heard of or read about but have never made the time to visit.

The Old Mission, of which I already wrote, was an incredible sight and site – a must in the list of things to see there. Another one that may have been less imposing, though no less powerful, was the Presidio.

church, Presidio, Santa Barbara, California, history, Spanish settlement, architecture, photo, travel, Olympus

The church

The Presidio was built in the late 18th century as a military facility (not sure if “fort” is too strong a word) by the Spanish colonizers. The original site was a large square but now only half of it remains – while sad, at least half still exists (half glass full type of thought there!).

Presidio, Santa Barbara, California, history, Spanish settlement, architecture, photo, travel, Samsung Galaxy

A street runs through it now… oh, modernity…

The Visitor Center has a model that helps one envision the total original site and it pains me that part of it was lost. The good news is that one of the remaining structures is the second oldest building structure in California. The entire Presidio site is now a California state park so it is protected – and that is a good thing for preservation and future generations. California today can feel very modern and artificial; its roots can be easily forgotten in the glitz of what the media portrays as California. As a lover of history, I certainly treasure a site like El Presidio and think it deserves to be visited.

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Looking from the street towards the visitor center

At the Visitor Center, we met a gentleman who works at the site who gave us a quick overview (for free!) of the site before we paid and walked in to explore the site. Of course, a lot of restoration has taken place – it is impossible for the modest structures to survive without it: The decades can’t be kind to a building made in those days and with those materials (and given the frequency of quakes in the area). But as I walked around, it all felt as it must have been so long ago – that tells me the preservation work was well done.

The grounds around the Presidio

The grounds behind the church

Room in the Presidio

The outer walls of the precinct are thick and there were private spaces for the homes of the more senior members of the staff, even with space for small gardens. Along with the typical military spaces (like the military parade grounds), there was also a church located well inside the square. The church is plain but has been nicely restored at some point as you can see in the following pictures.

The church’s altar

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The back of the church

Looking towards the front of the church

church, color, Presidio, Santa Barbara, California, history, Spanish settlement, architecture, photo, travel, Olympus

Detail of the wall and ceiling of the church

Baptismal font with a plaque of ceramic with names of those baptized in the mid 19th century

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I have to say that with all the glitz and glam that California has become synonymous with, and the accompanying Hollywood trash, it is refreshing to experience a different California, one that makes evident how this land was explored and how it was settled by a European power. Yes, I am a history geek! Read more about the Presidio here.

Filed Under: California, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: architecture, California, history, military installation, Presidio, Santa Barbara, Spanish settlement, travel, what to do in Santa Barbara

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 6 from Salceda to Lavacolla

5 January 2015 by Raul 2 Comments

Day 6 saw our last full day of our walk along the Camino de Santiago as Day 7 would be a short day. Day 6’s walk took about 5 hours (perhaps about 18 km) not including our lunch stop at Amenal. I felt both excited at getting close to the finish line and also a little bit sad that the end was so close. We left the hotel (and our luggage) in Salceda after a good breakfast and walked a few minutes to get back on the Camino. Along the way, I had been collected the needed stamps on my “credenciales” (pilgrim’s passport); these are required to be able to get the “Compostela” certificate upon arrival at the offices in Santiago de Compostela.

Camino de Santiago, passport,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The pilgrim’s “passport” (credenciales) that you must stamp every day

Camino de Santiago, passport, pilgrim,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Proudly showing my stamped “credenciales” (or pilgrim’s passport)

Sights along the Camino

As usual, our way was a mix of fields of flowers, small forests, farms, and churches. And the ever present signs pointing the way. Here are a few of the images from this day in our trek.

Camino de Santiago, yellow flowers, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Beautiful field of yellow

Camino de Santiago, flowers, hydrangea,hortensia, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Canon EOS Rebel

Hydrangeas were popular along the way

Camino de Santiago, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Just keep following the signs…

Church

Cemetery

An amazing place to stay: Pazo Xan Xordo

Once we got to Lavacolla, a stone’s throw from Santiago’s airport actually, we walked a little bit to get to our lodging for the night: Pazo Xan Xordo. We were wowed by this 17th century home and farm with its own chapel and beautiful gardens. This place was a real dream!

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Pazo Xan Xordo and its front patio

Chapel near the front entrance of Pazo Xan Xordo

The inside of the chapel

It also has a small restaurant but it was not open for dinner so our host dropped us off and picked us back up for dinner in town, where we celebrated being so close to finishing with a great dinner and a dessert I had not had, but seen often, yet: ice cream cake!

Camino de Santiago, restaurant,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The final dinner on the trail (in Lavacolla)!

Camino de Santiago, ice cream cake, dessert,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The ice cream cake

A perfect ending to another great day along the Camino!

Yours truly

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Trekking for Kids and the Bayti Centre in Essaouira

1 January 2015 by Raul 1 Comment

In the summer of 2014, I decided to do another trek with Trekking for Kids (TFK) with whom I have trekked in Romania in 2012 and climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2013. When I learned TFK was going to go to the Camino de Santiago, something I’ve wanted to do since I learned about it, I knew I just had to go as it was the perfect combination of a trek and of service to improve the lives of children, something I am very passionate about. The group of trekkers paid their own way and then raised funds for projects to be done at the center selected by TFK.

Trekking for Kids, TFK, trekking, Morocco, Essaouira

The group of Trekking for Kids trekkers before the first day of work – I was in GREAT company!

The service work was going to take place at a center for street and at-risk children in Essaouira on the Atlantic coast of Morocco – a town that surprised me and of which I am writing separately. TFK decided to work with the Bayti Centre to improve the facilities where they work with the children to protect them against violence, to provide psychosocial rehabilitation, to reintegrate families, and other related activities.

Bayti Centre, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, volunteerism, Samsung Galaxy

TFK being welcomed by Bayti Centre staff

kid, Bayti Centre, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, volunteerism, Samsung Galaxy

A group shot with tons of kids is hard to pull off…

TFK selected a number of improvement projects like helping the exterior of the building be repaired and painted. Another project was a kitchen renovation that facilitated the two kitchen staff to be able to work side by side in the small kitchen with two sinks, a new fridge, and a new stove as well as more shelving to better use the space. New equipment for instruction (like a flat screen TV) and other items for the children were donated as well. In summary, a series of projects that would enhance the facilities to create a better environment for Bayti to deliver its services and attend to the children of the streets of Essaouira.

The facade of the Bayti Centre after repairs but before painting

Finishing touches being applied on the repairs prior to the painting

Bayti Centre, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, volunteerism, Olympus

Painting the exterior – street level

Building a wall garden requires woodworking skills!

kid, Bayti Centre, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, volunteerism, Olympus

One dirty (and happy) trekker after a day of work at the Centre!

Along with the works, we also got to take the children on outings and threw a party where we all got to enjoy food, games, and music much to the delight of the children.

Getting ready for one of the outings

kid, Bayti Centre, Essaouira, Morocco, travel, volunteerism, Canon EOS Rebel

Face painting in progress!

A fellow trekker doing the artwork!

Another great face paint job and a happy kid!

The end product of face painting!

One of the outings was to go to a park in the city for fun and games

The girl on the right sure knew the right technique for jump rope!

Precious little girl!

He was having fun at the park – and I was glad to be a part of it

Fun and games at the pool park in one of the outings

More fun and games at the pool

A final word is to thank the amazing staff and volunteers who are the ones who truly made the world a better place for these children. Je vous remercie, mes amis!