travel - ilivetotravel's travel log

Monticchiello: Charm in the Middle of Tuscany

16 April 2014 by Raul 4 Comments

A few years ago, in one of my trips to Italy, we spent a few days in Tuscany. We opted to rent apartments in a small mountaintop town called Monticchiello, a charming place, sandwiched between Pienza and Montepulciano (lucky folks!!!).

We truly lucked out: the town was quaint, quite small, and its location was central and offering greats views. The place we stayed at was an awesome building a few hundreds of years old (but, the landlady mis-led us in terms of it sleeping all of us – I ended on a cot by the dining room).

apartment, Tuscany, La Toscana, Monticchiello, Italy, Italia, travel, lodging, accommodation, photo, old, stone

What a real person’s room looked like in that apartment!

A meal to remember

One of its gems was the only restaurant up there, aptly named Osteria La Porta (the gate). There was a wait so we went to stand outside. Not a few minutes later, the owner came out with a bottle of wine and five glasses for us to entertain ourselves with, courtesy of the house. Yea, like THAT would happen in the U.S.! We immediately knew we were at the right place.

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THE right place!

And we were not disappointed. We made it inside and began studying the menu. However, the waiter advised us that the pasta with truffle was very special. That was a plate with no meat of any sort. Just fresh pasta, fresh truffles, and a trickle of plain butter sauce. I decided that if it was being recommended, I ought to try despite its lack of meat or any veggies I normally like (mushrooms do not fall under that category). It was simply a superb dish. I can safely say top 5 ever eaten by me without any fear of exaggeration.

5 very happy campers

A special coincidence

We traveled to Italy during Holy Week which led to a few opportunities for good timing to happen. Such was that Sunday at Monticchielo: we were there on Palm Sunday. We went to church that Sunday and it was neat to hear Mass in Italian. But bigger surprise awaited us: the procession around town. All 40 or 50 of us followed the priest around this neat little town. I normally don’t spend enough time researching places to find out if there are local events that could be of interest – I just explore once I get somewhere. Maybe I have missed some things with this approach but, I have to say, it makes running into these local situations so much more fun.

Monticchiello, Tuscany, La Toscana, Italy, Italia, Palm Sunday, Church, Catholic

The faithful getting their palms before the procession

The priest leading the procession

Walking down the narrow streets of Monticchiello

Headed back in to the church at the end of the procession

What experiences have you had were you as pleasantly surprised while traveling? (Except the part about me in a cot next to a kitchen!)

Filed Under: Europe, Italy, Travel Journal Tagged With: exploring, food, Italia, Italy, La Toscana, Montecchiello, Palm Sunday, pasta, photos, travel, truffles, Tuscany

The “First Cousins” Capitals: Copenhagen, Oslo and Stockholm

9 April 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

It has been an interesting exercise to try to think of the Scandinavian countries and come up with a good and succinct outline of what makes them different from each other without requiring a degree in history, architecture, and other similar fields. So I decided to not be that ambitious and limit this to taking a look at the Scandinavian “first cousins” capitals – Oslo, Stockholm and Copenhagen – and see what I came up with…

All of these first cousins felt very manageable for a first time visitor. There was nothing daunting or complex about getting around which made it easy for me to walk aimlessly to see what I would discover. Everyone spoke English which certainly facilitated the visit though I am OK attempting to communicate in any number of languages I can dabble in. I visited them all more or less around May or June making my comparison even in terms of weather. Clearly the time of the year I visited made them all come across as “alive” since everyone by then had finished thawing off from their winter “slump”. Everyone was out and about enjoying the weather – and their cities.

Oslo

In Norway, they were actually having a warm spell in early May (I carried a coat through Europe because I was supposed to need it when I got to Norway; it was hotter than anywhere in Europe at the time!). Everyone was out at the parks and streets just hanging out. The outdoor cafes were all packed, everyone enjoying a beer or four. I partook even if I was a little horrified at the cost of everything.

Looking towards Akershus Fortress at sunset

My favorite meal was a bucketful of fresh shrimp and beer sitting at a water-side restaurant (maybe by the Herbern marina) right around Aker Brygge, a modern shopping, entertainment, and office district near the Nobel Peace Center. Of course, my favorite activity overall was taking a brief boat ride down Oslofjord but that is a different story!

It was neat to walk right by boats selling their catch to local restaurant buyers right across from City Hall.

Buying seafood right from the boat!

Oslo probably felt the smaller of the three cousins (I actually have not looked up population statistics) and the more relaxed, perhaps because of its size, perhaps because people just wanted to enjoy the newly found warmth by chilling (!) outdoors. I loved scenes like the Akershus Fortress and the massive ski jump off in the distance!

Stockholm

As a capital city, Stockholm didn’t have a presence that screamed “big city”. And I liked that. It sits comfortably by the water built on and surrounded by islands. It is quite easy to move about even if unfamiliar with it – its vast waterfront makes it hard to get lost. I have previously written about this city by the water so I will not elaborate here.

We headed first to the area where the Royal Palace sits, “Stadsholm”, an island itself. This is all part of old town or Gamla Stan. Gamla Stan is full of charming architecture and beautiful streets. From there, one can easily cross to a small island where Parliament sits (Riksdag) and exit it on the other side to enter the pedestrian shopping street (Drottninggatan) and move on to parks and other areas of town. Almost across the water from the Royal Palace, of course, on another island, one finds the Vasa Museum (a must-see in Stockholm).

Gamla Stan, old town, Stockholm. Sweden. architecture, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Charming architecture in Gamla Stan

Riksdag (Parliament)

Stockholm, and the people, there felt very relaxed, none more so than the students celebrating being done with school atop a party bus, one of the city scenes I shared in another post. I could see myself lounging a few days, weeks, or more in this capital. Of course, likely not during winter.

Copenhagen

During my visit to Copenhagen (three days), we toured around all the main areas of town you are always told to see and visit. These included palaces, museums, the maverick community of Freetown Christiania, and other key sights. As with many cities, my favorite part of Copenhagen was exploring the smaller side streets and finding that little jewel of a restaurant (as happened to us, with Restaurant and Café Nytorv which sits at about 150 years old).

We also happened upon the Copehagen Carnival (in June!) which made the main pedestrian street, Strøget, a lively corridor. It may have lacked the wildness of Rio’s Carnival or Nawlins’ Mardi Gras but I certainly give it an “A” for enthusiasm and effort!

The Danish capital definitely felt the more developed of the “first cousin capitals”, the more urbanized, the more identifiable as a capital. While it sits on the water’s edge like the other two, it lacked the splendid fjords of Oslo or the charm of the many islands in and around Stockholm. Granted it may have more diversity of older and modern architecture than but it often was not impressive. For example, the buildings composing the royal palace/residence at Amalienborg were not imposing, nor terribly interesting from the outside, nor graced with gardens or green spaces (Rosenborg Castle fares much better.)

Amalienborg Palace

While it was interesting to visit Copenhagen and walk its old streets, I hate to say, it did not wow me. I didn’t feel an urge, say, to live there for 6 months, nor linger longer (though that may be precisely what I should do to “get” Copenhagen?).

Have you visited these first cousins? Which one did you like best/least? What influences your answer?

Filed Under: Denmark, Europe, Norway, Sweden Tagged With: capital cities, Copenhagen, Denmark, Norway, oslo, photos, Stockholm, Sweden, travel

Admiring History on the Rocks in Petra, Jordan

7 April 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

I first went to Petra, Jordan back in 1998 on a day trip from Sharm-el-Sheikh at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt. If you know the lay of the land, that may sound impossible. Well, not if you take a flight from Sharm-el-Sheikh to Aqaba, Jordan and then hop on a bus. That’s exactly what I did. I did not have the luxury of time so it was an either do it on a day trip or not do it. Since I could not predict the future, I had to go for it to be sure I got to see Petra in case I didn’t get to come back.

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel — Headed to Petra

Petra, Jordan, roads, travel — Great vistas along the way

Return to Petra

Fast forward 15 years and I return to this necropolis-turned-town-turned-movie-setting-turned-massive-tourist-site. I was thrilled at the opportunity to return and explore it on more depth. You see, in my first visit, I decided to walk my way in which is great in many ways but it eats away precious time for someone on a day trip there from Sharm-el-Sheikh. The second time, while I did walk in, I walked faster knowing time was precious and I rented a donkey to take me up to save time. That was a great idea except that the donkey preferred the edge of the path on the way up rather than risk hitting itself against the rocks at the other side of the path, making this rider a little bit worried about the way down!

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, donkey, ilivetotravel, donkey — Donkey in the shade – smart!

Thanks, Nabateans

Petra is amazing due to how it has evolved over time but it was the Nabateans who deserve the credit (after God, of course) for this place. Certainly, the landscape and topography are thanks to the Maker but what happened after that really starts with the Nabateans who carved a necropolis out of these beautiful rocks. Others, like the Romans, continued to develop the site to what we know now.

More than the Treasury

You can see evidence of amazing early engineering when you see the channels that were carved into the rock to capture the rare rainfall that rolled down canyon walls and take it into a natural “holding tank.”

Also impressive are the facades of the tombs built into the rocks such as the Royal Tombs and other areas like the Monastery and the very famous Treasury, which many think to be what the Indiana Jones movie showed. In reality the Treasury is more of a facade. Be sure to get a guide who explains to you what you are looking at as the Treasury, for example, shows evidence of how it was carved out of the stone. And be sure to go all over!

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, Royal Tombs — Some of the Royal Tombs

My advice if you are visiting Petra and don’t have but a day or two is to use a donkey for some of the climbs (unless you want or need the exercise) and then walk and explore – this way, you will maximize what you will see from this one-of-a-kind place and there is PLENTY to see and admire about this unique site.

Petra, Jordan, Nabatean, archeology, ruins, history, necropolis, ancient site, exploring, Middle East, travel, photos, Canon EOS Rebel, Treasury, ilivetotravel — My family “came along” with me to Petra!

During my second visit to Petra, I was a guest of the Jordan Tourism Board. That notwithstanding, the stories I share were my real experiences and nothing else. As they always are!

Filed Under: Asia, Jordan, Travel Journal Tagged With: ancient site, archeology, Canon EOS Rebel, exploring, history, Jordan, Middle East, Nabatean, necropolis, Petra, photos, ruins, travel

Travel Inspiring Reads – In the Empire of Genghis Khan

3 April 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

Stanley Stewart shares with us in his book about his travel through the lands of Genghis Khan. Even before he gets to Mongolia, you get to enjoy his anecdotes from traversing what is to me an obscure corner of our planet: Central Asia. And, I may add, a part of the world I am dying to explore myself, inspired partly by another book I reviewed earlier: The Alluring Target.

Stanley, or “Stalin” which was the closest some people could get to his name, shares about his journey which started in Istanbul, crossing the Black Sea on a ship where he met some interesting characters. Two of those characters in this ship, which was no cruise liner, Anna and Olga, were described as a “dramatic illustration of the way that Slavic women seem unable to find any middle ground between slim grace and stout coarseness.” And this will be the freedom that he uses along the book to describe his experiences and the sights. His observations are funny and truly helped me picture the scenes.

He hits Sevastopol, recently in the news to the Russian invasion of the Crimea, and eventually trains his way across parts of Russia eventually exiting it at Kazakhstan. Perhaps Russia invaded the Crimea this year to get Sevastopol because, as he explains, back in Soviet times, Russians from Moscow would go down there “just to look at the vegetables.” LOL, Putin just needs some fiber! He also finds -and shares with us- wisdom he gets from a Russian: “In Russia, everything takes time. We have a saying: ‘The first 500 years are always the worst.’ ” Good news: no dictator lasts even a fifth of that, right?!

In any case, the author keeps moving east and begins talking more about the focus of this epic journey: Genghis Khan. He explains how Genghis could not respect towns as he was a nomad from the steppes, who viewed townsfolk with pity, from “a position of cultural and moral superiority” while viewing settled farmers as nothing more than a “flock of sheep.” The freedom of the nomadic life was highly valued. Therefore, destroying these settled peoples did not trouble good ole Genghis. Mongols were seen at the footsteps of Vienna but like the Ottomans later, they did not make it there. No, it wasn’t a Polish king that saved Vienna from the Mongols (like from the Ottomans) but it was an odd thing that kept them out: the Khan of those days died; and all the Mongols had to haul back to the capital to be part of the election of the next Khan. So just like that… poof! … they left and Europe was spared further destruction.

One of the reasons I enjoyed this book so much is this mixing of the observations of a traveler with the historical info, all giving me enjoyable insights into this part of the world. For example, he describes Bishkek, the not-well-known capital of not-well-known Kirghizstan as a “sweet provincial place of tree-lined streets” – it only makes me want to see this place along the Silk Road with my own two eyes.

In another part of the adventure, he describes visiting a highly isolated monastery of only two monks who seemed to have barely escaped the 11th century… and stayed at the 12th century. Further on, he describes flying into Mongolia since there was no land route with an open border in that corner where Russia, Kazakhstan and Mongolia meet. The plane was from a company with only one commercial flight that was clearly not regulated by any aviation authority. No, no, it was not Aeroflot. He lands in the town of Olgii which proves to him that “Mongolians are not very good at towns.” He elaborates that it had “an apocalyptic air,” a town “built by people who hate towns.” Good stuff!

Through his time with his Mongolian guides, he learns about the Mongolian worldview. Choice stuff. Like: “We hate the Chinese… And the Chinese hate us right back.” Stanley points out that no better evidence of the latter than the Great Wall itself, to keep the barbarians out: “To the Chinese, the Mongols are the neighbors from hell.” I am not sure about that. Let’s ask the Tibetans, shall we? Another great nugget into this relationship is the Chinese saying he shares: “When Mongolians party, the rest of Asia locks its doors.” So the Mongolians, it would seem, would belong in the SEC if they had a college football team.

And the insights into how Mongolians live are aplenty. For example, we read about the wrestling competition where the jackets worn by the wrestlers have long sleeves but are open in the front. That’s to be sure no women wrestlers pretend to be men. You see, he explains, women wrestlers are well feared in Outer Mongolia and, this way, they keep men wrestlers from getting hurt… Another insight is why jeeps tend to have no door handles on the left hand side of the vehicle: jeeps, like horses, should only be mounted from the right hand side. A final insight I will share here is how nothing “horrifies Mongolians quite like the admission that foreigners, like animals, regularly consume raw leaves.” Horrifies me too.

Now, I am NOT going to take that crazy flight into Mongolia by a local airline with one plane… Nor am I looking to spending weeks on horseback, much as his crazy horses sound like a barrel of laughs… But I have to say that the anecdotes, the observations, and the facts shared make me wish I’d been right along him -not all the time- in this journey and feed my hunger to meet Central Asia some day!

Filed Under: Asia, Travel Reads Tagged With: adventure, book, central asia, good read, Kazakhstan, memoirs, Mongolia, travel

Piedmont Park: An Oasis in the Middle of Atlanta

31 March 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

Atlanta is a city of greenery and a lot of that comes from its many parks. Many neighborhoods have a park and some, like mine, more than one. The parks are mostly local to each area though open to anyone as they tend to be city property. They range from just a wild natural area, to green open spaces, to those with playground sets for the kids. What is good about Atlanta is that the local neighborhoods step in to help keep these parks clean and alive.

Piedmont Park, Atlanta, Midtown, outdoors, oasis, photo

Piedmont Park forms the eastern boundary of the Midtown skyline

However, Atlanta’s centerpiece in the park category is Piedmont Park, located in the middle of Midtown, easily accessible from every cardinal point. The park’s history is longer than Atlanta’s own. A land lottery in 1821 distributed the land just ceded by the native Creek Nation of Indians. Early pioneers acquired a forest that would later become Piedmont Park to build their farm (the Walker family) before Atlanta itself was established! It is interesting to note that the original cabin was built on what is now called “Active Oval” where an oval track’s center fields host any number of sports activities. Another cabin was built a couple of decades after the first one in the area where the Driving Club sits now.

The Active Oval today looking south towards downtown

The area became the location of many expos in the late 1800s and that’s how the park as we know it began to take shape. The Piedmont Exposition of 1887 and the Cotton States and International Exposition of 1895 are the most important ones, with the latter being a World Expo to promote the southern states internationally and it ran for about 100 days and attracted 800,000 visitors, way before highways and planes facilitated bringing visitors to Atlanta. Pretty impressive.

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One of the many historical “markers”, this one to the Gate City (as Atlanta was referred to in those days) Guard

The park was finally bought by the City of Atlanta in 1904 after hesitating many times because it was “so far” from the city (at that time, of course, Atlanta was just what we know as downtown). A lake, steps, tennis courts, and other landscape changes (including carving out what is now the Active Oval to give it its current topography) were implemented in those years. The Atlanta Botanical Gardens were established along the northwestern edge of the park (worth a visit any time of the year but especially for the winter night lights!).

Piedmont Park, Atlanta, Midtown, photo, lake

Man-made lake installed decades ago

But this park never ceases to be improved. In the last decade, the park underwent major “renovations” with paths being installed and a dog park being established. Sadly, the old railroad line that used to run along its eastern edge has disappeared (at least part of it) — Atlanta may be one of very few places were destroying history is celebrated as “progress” (to be in the company of Beijing in this category is not a compliment, folks…). I enjoyed climbing an old train there once in the younger days. But all in the name of progress and of creating a better park space in the midst of the hustle-and-bustle that we call Atlanta.

Piedmont Park, train, railroad line, garden, Atlanta, Midtown, photo

Where the train use to run, at least the land has been put to good use (a garden)

The park sometimes hosts events like festivals, and is a great place for a walk, a run, a swim, or a picnic. Back in my college days, a hot balloon race used to take off from the southeastern fields and it was quite the sight. The movie in the green event allowed folks to come and watch a movie on a summer evening while bringing food and beverages to enjoy.

Piedmont Park, Atlanta, Midtown, photo, walking, jogging

Great place to walk, run and be with friends

The park has evolved over the decades and is under good stewardship of the city and a conservancy group which will help ensure the park continues to be an oasis in Atlanta for current and future generations to enjoy.

What parks exist in your town that serve as great outdoor gathering places?

Filed Under: Georgia, US & Canada Tagged With: active oval, Atlanta, Cotton Exhibition, green space, outdoors, photos, piedmont park, travel

Visiting Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park in Zanzibar

26 March 2014 by Raul 5 Comments

Most people likely think of Zanzibar (Tanzania) for its beaches and resorts. Or perhaps also for its very unique history and architecture. Or maybe as the birthplace of Freddie Mercury. However, get off-the-beaten-path and you will discover Zanzibar has other interesting places to explore. One such place for those who like things to do outdoors is the Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park which sits between the towns of Jozani and Chwaka Bay and, therefore, easily accessible for those staying in Stone Town or resorts in the eastern side of the island. I went to the island not for vacation but, actually, for work as part of a larger visit to Tanzania that took me to Dar es Salaam and Mwanza, out west on the shores of Lake Victoria.

Zanzibar, Jozani, Chwaka Bay, National Park, photo, travel, Tanzania

Welcome!

On the way to the park

Entrance to the park

The park is a great example of conservation efforts that involve the adjacent communities that otherwise would tap the park for its natural resources, over time depleting them. The efforts to conserve the park (in which my employer at the time, CARE, was involved) were part of my visit there and it was great to see how the neighboring communities, once brought on board, understood the long-term considerations and began adapting their own approaches.

The park is west known for its red colobus monkeys. Quite comfortable with humans (which may be a concern), they are amusing to watch for sure.

Zanzibar, Jozani, Chwaka Bay, National Park, colobus, monkey, photo, travel, Tanzania

Red colobus monkey

Red colobus monkey monkeying around

Besides the monkeys, it is neat walk around and look at the flora native to the area. A bit humid but otherwise a great walk!

Vegetation at the Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park

So if you ever head to Zanzibar, enjoy the beaches, Stone Town, and the local contribution to world music but do not miss the Jozani-Chwaka Bay Park, a peaceful oasis within any visitor’s reach.

Filed Under: Africa, Tanzania Tagged With: Chwaka Bay, Jozani, National Park, nature, outdoor activities in Zanzibar, photo, Tanzania, travel, visit park in Zanzibar, Zanzibar

Roadside Treats on the Way to Maracas Bay, Trinidad

24 March 2014 by Raul 4 Comments

I think I must be hungry because chadon beni has been on my mind today… It is making me remember my trip to to Maracas Bay in Trinidad. On the way there, we made a stop for “Trini-Treats”, a roadside kiosk with a neat array of munchies, some familiar to me having grown up in another Caribbean island, but most quite unique to Trinidad & Tobago and, therefore, new to me. At first, I was not sure these treats were for me. Definitely not anything with coconut; coconut is just not for me. Mango slices immersed in some pickled liquid, Patsy’s channa, and other stuff I did not recognize made me wonder if anything here would be for me.

Trinidad, chadon beni, roadside stand, Maracas Bay, food, foodie, photo

My host and I beginning to explore all the offerings – a little overwhelming at first

The young writer seriously concentrating on the options at hand

Thankfully, our local host ignored our initial hesitation and got some samples of the different items. I was very pleasantly surprised. My favorite was the pears immersed in chow which is some sort of pickled liquid infused with chadon beni (culantro in other parts of the Caribbean, a strong flavored herb; with some garlic and black pepper, depends on the particular jar) – a great flavor combination!

chadon beni, pickled fruits, Trinidad, Maracas Bay, roadside food, food, tasty, treats,, Trini

Pineapple slices

Pears

Mango slices

After that, we decided to get a few more of these delicious treats before continuing to Maracas Bay where bake ‘n shark awaited… Famous “Richard’s” was closed for renovations so we just headed next door. I loved the self-serve on the toppings and had a most delicious lunch.

Maracas Bay, bake and shark at Trinidad and Tobago

Bake and shark goodness!

This “beach” food sampler is just one example of many of the great food to be experienced in the lovely islands of Trinidad & Tobago. Can’t wait to return!

Filed Under: Caribbean/C America, Good Eats and Drinks, Trinidad & Tobago Tagged With: chadon beni, culantro, food, Maracas Bay, photos, pickled fruits, spices, travel, Trini treats, Trinidad

Photo of the Week: Viewing Venice from my Window Seat

21 March 2014 by Raul 5 Comments

Venice, Italy is such a unique place. It is almost out of Disney’s mind. But it is not. It is truly unique and a sight worth seeing once in your life. I have been fortunate not only to have seen it, but to have been there twice. It can be a maddening place with the crowd of peers (read: fellow visitors) but it is also a great place to get lost to get far away from the tourists.

In my second visit there, I actually flew from the U.S. direct to Venice. And that gave me this incredible bird’s eye view of my destination from my window seat. Forget jet lag, this sight can restore anyone’s energy!

Filed Under: Europe, Italy, Special Photos, Travel Journal Tagged With: airport, flight, Italia, Italy, landing, photo, travel, Venezia, Venice, view

Travel Inspiring Reads – Conquering the Fear of Flying with “Ask the Pilot”

12 March 2014 by Raul 9 Comments

I admit it. No, I confess it. I am a nervous flyer. The more I fly, the nervouser I get. Is it that the odds are infinitesimally less in my favor? Is it that I can better recognize abnormal sounds? Or is it just the fault of that off-duty flight attendant gripping our shared armrest during turbulence over northern Florida? Surely, it is non-sense to worry about being propelled at 35,000 ft of altitude in a metal cylinder loaded with fuel, right??

It is probably a little bit of everything and, maybe, some superstition mixed in for good measure… I totally get the concept of aerodynamics. It is a basic concept and one does not have to be half a rocket scientist to grasp the physics involved. You know, roll down the window of a moving car and put your hand out. As you tilt your hand in different ways, you can find that one position where all of a sudden your arm is about to fly up and back. That’s how a plane flies (OK, maybe grossly over-simplified). It is all so elementary that technically a plane can glide down on no engines (this actually happened to an A330 in 2001 and it ended up landing at an island in the Azores). Clearly, this is not the recommended way to fly but it illustrates the point.

Enter, stage left, Patrick Smith’s “Ask the Pilot,” a no non-sense look through the many bad thoughts a nervous flyer can have. With the authority lent to him by his experience as a passenger and cargo pilot, he walks the reader through all these mis-conceptions or fears.

My favorite section of the book is the one that deals with turbulence. Of all the things to worry about when flying, turbulence is about the most normal thing, to the point many pilots don’t even feel turbulence we passengers fret about. As Smith points out, “A pilot worries about turbulence the way a sailor might worry about the waves.” Turbulence is simply crossing wind currents. For me, the problem begins because that first shaking startles me. And then, if it continues, it is almost like I don’t have a chance to recover from being startled. Let it go long enough (and not too violently enough) and I can come back down from the “scare.” As Smith puts is somewhat comically (except I wasn’t smiling when I read it!): “In the mind’ eye of a rider in coach, the plane is plummeting… In reality vertical displacement is infrequently more than fifty feet. and the plane will not be snatched away and stomped into the ground.” Oh, OK.

He doesn’t completely soft pedal the matter and does share than serious turbulence is possible and can be damaging but stresses it is infrequent. He also covers items like wake turbulence, hitting a bird during takeoff or landing, and other important topics like why is the pilot walking around the plane doing that when it barely seems he is inspecting anything (it is not the only check that is happening and that quick visual is like you looking at your car’s tires before a road trip).

Not everything he cover is about fear. He covers topics like how JFK‘s (formerly Idlewood) design came about. The briefing babble. Pilots’ pay. Unions. Flight numbers. He explains why it sounds like engines rev up immediately after landing (he explains how it is not a 180 degree reversal of engine power). He uses great humor as he shares anecdotes such as the time a cargo plane crew member dumped, not thinking straight, a bag of dry ice into the toilet… A volcano-like fountain of blue toilet liquid filling the restroom and beginning to flow all over the floor of the main level. (They survived.)

The book appealed to me as I had heard it did a great job calming this nervous flyer. What I discovered was a fun read that I highly recommend to any flyer out there (frequent or not!).

Are you a nervous flyer?? Am I the only one?? 🙂

Filed Under: Travel Journal, Travel Reads Tagged With: air travel, airplane, book, fear of flying, good read, inspiration, pilot, travel, turbulence

Ideas for Paris Travel with Pre-Teen Kids

10 March 2014 by Raul 12 Comments

A friend asked me what to do in Paris as she was going with her kids for a week or so. I do not have kids but I was one once and that, coupled with the fact that I have stayed at a Holiday Inn, fully makes me an expert at recommending stuff for kids.

My brain immediately thought “Paris Disney” but I really thought this would be a criminal offense when they have the opportunity to have a much more unique experience – and ilivetotravel is all about experiences. Like chocolate and macarons.

chocolate, macarons, maison du chocolat, Paris, France, food, foodie, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

All sorts of good stuff can be found in Paris. And I am sure kids & adults alike will enjoy!

So here is what I tell my friend to do:

Jardin de Luxembourg – This, the second largest public park in Paris, was part of the Palace that sits right by it. The Palace was built in the early 17^th century and is now the French Senate. The park has many statues and fountains. Maybe your daughter can imagine how it must have felt in the 17^th century being a princess walking around the gardens! And your son may enjoy renting a sailboat to operate in the large fountain while you sit and watch people go by as you enjoy this garden!
The Pantheon – This is likely a quick visit. Some of the most notable French figures are buried here but I don’t think that will impress the kids. However, it was free (at least when I went years ago) and seeing a building with such a unique interior may be interesting for the kids for, at least, 10 minutes. And you, the parent, get to see it!
Go up the Eiffel Tower. I don’t know if the kids will be up to hiking up as far as they let you before you have to take the elevator to reach the top but I know you are fit and can climb it with no issue! While the climb may be more work than the kids want to do, seeing the structure up close as you go up is neat. But, in the end, it’s the view from the top that matters most so, whether you all climb it or not, go up!
Walk up the Arc de Triomphe. OK, if the kids didn’t want to climb the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe is another option available to help you burn the calories of all the delicious pastries you are likely going to be eating (I will be mad if you don’t!). It is deceiving but it is like 14-16 stories high so it is not trivial. The view is not as cool as the one from the Eiffel Tower but you can look down the Champs-Elysées from it and, on the other side, towards the modern arc-shaped building in the distance. Oh, and please use the tunnels that go under the road – don’t attempt to cross the street to get to it!
Visit Montmartre. It is a great place to and walk the narrow and hilly streets (still making you exercise with this plan!). To get up, you can climb the stairs but I will cut your kids some slack and suggest you all ride the little funicular. Once you reach the top, you are rewarded with the massive Sacre Coeur church. And guess what? You can climb it to the top! This one, I think your kids will definitely enjoy and great views of the city to boot!
The narrow and hilly streets of Montmartre – explore!
I feel obliged to suggest a museum that may be good for kids. But I had to do some research on this. I found the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, or the Museum of Hunting and Nature (60, rue des Archives, in the third arrondissement). It is supposed to be interesting for kids mixing animals (dead) and art. Let me know how it is!
Pompidou Center (19, rue Beaubourg, in the fourth arrondissement) has a hands-on children’s area, not sure for what age exactly but it is free for kids so you can get to check out some art under the guise of taking them to a museum that has stuff for them (even if it turns out they are too old for what it has!).
Notre Dame is quite impressive even for kids but it may be a quicker visit with them. On neighboring Ile St. Louis (the island in the river near Notre Dame), there is an ice cream place that is really good. It’s called Berthillon (31 Rue St.-Louis-en-l’Ile). Use that to reward the kids for letting you visit Notre Dame 🙂 And you can have one too.
Take a boat ride in the Seine. Some of the boats offer fancy dinner cruises but there is a batobus (boat bus) that you can take to travel up and down the river –more fun than the metro (for the kids AND you!) and you can use this to see the city from a different perspective.
The Tuileries Garden (right by the Louvre Museum, at the base of the Champs-Elysées almost) is one of the most kid-friendly spots in Paris, and also one of the most beautiful. There are trampolines, a merry go round, etc. A large Egyptian obelisk is located outside on the west side of the park on the Place de la Concorde – could be a unique thing to see from ancient Egypt in Paris.
A view towards the Place de la Concorde and the obelisk. Note Sacre Coeur in the background!
Go into the many places that have phenomenal pastries and other decadent things, like these. For the kids, you know…
- Ladurée – several across town (one near La Madeleine, another on the Champs Elysees, etc.)
- Dalloyau – there is one at 2, pl Edmond Rostand, right across the Jardin de Luxembourg; there are other locations like 101, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
- Angelina (226 rue de Rivoli, right across the Tuileries/Louvre; incredible hot chocolate). As you can see, I have conveniently picked places close to the others I have recommended so you have NO excuse for missing these!
Visit where Raúl lived (24 rue de Tilsitt). OK, it’s a boring building one short block from the Arc de Triomphe. Thinking it over, it may not impress the kids – or you – so only go if you run out of things to do 🙂
Yea, the building I lived in was boring but this is the view from the rooftop terrace!

Enjoy Paris and be sure to let me know what the kids enjoyed – from this list or otherwise!

Filed Under: Europe, France, Good Eats and Drinks Tagged With: Angelina, Arc de Triomphe, Canon EOS Rebel, children, Eiffel Tower, France, French pastries, Jardin de Luxembourg, kids travel, paris, photo, travel, Tuileries

Photo of the Week – The Alps of Transylvania

7 March 2014 by Raul 4 Comments

This scene was what we were rewarded with after arriving at the Cabana Curmatura in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania and hiking on for another hour. I dream of returning to amazing Transylvania. Too bad people’s only notion of it is the legend of Dracula: there is SO much to enjoy and explore there!

Filed Under: Europe, Hiking, Romania, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alps, Canon EOS Rebel, Dracula, hiking, mountains, nature, outdoors, photo, Romania, Transylvania, travel, trekking, view

Travel and Adventure Show: A Great Way to Explore Destinations

5 March 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

These days, there are so many ways to learn about places to travel in the U.S. and abroad. A Google search away you can find a treasure trove of sites (like this one!) with topics from “top X fill-in-the-blank” to “Y on a budget” to tourist boards’ plethora of information about any given destination. You can also get your question answered on any given platform, for example, by just tweeting your question and hoping the tweet-o-sphere responds back.

On the more “analog” side of things, the options may be more limited but if you are lucky to live in a number of cities in the U.S. (or be able to get to one of them, like I do), the Travel and Adventure shows (which take place in cities like D.C., L.A., Chicago, Dallas and others) are a fun and efficient way to “visit” destinations all in one day (keep up with them at @TravAdventure). These shows pull in a large number of information and service providers in the arena of travel and adventure, making it easier to scan a larger number of destinations, asking questions from a live human being, and even listen to some famous travelers share their story (including many TV travel show hosts). In addition, these shows often have some of the fun things you could experience in travel right there for the visitor to try out.

The larger space for the guest speakers

Doing the show

I have been to three of these shows in the last two years and I always enjoy the energy of the people who come to the shows. I do get there early as it is easier to talk to some of the folks with a booth. I try to pick an aisle of top interest to me and then start there while the crowds are making their way in.

Nicaragua’s tourism folks providing information

I am not a big fan of listening to celebrities myself but there are plenty of those to listen to (and some are quite good!) – and the bigger the name, the earlier you want to grab a seat so you can be there up close.

Also, if you decide to partake in the activities by trying out scuba diving or climbing a rock wall, the earlier you get there, the shorter the line!

Scuba diving practice

I normally spend a few hours there which brings me to the topic of food. It feels like the options are finally growing but it is relatively expensive so, if you are on a budget or just rather save the money for that trip, pack a protein bar or something else and save money that way. The show itself costs little for the amount of value and, yes, entertainment it provides.

Value to travelers and presenters

I spoke with some presenters and participants about what value they derive from the show. Some presenters are from very specific destinations, like counties, while others represent an entire continent, like Africa. Some presenters are tour providers, lodging providers, or tourism boards. The variety makes it appealing and valuable regardless of what you are contemplating doing. In my recent visit to the DC Travel and Adventure show, I learned that Pennsylvania has a canyon and great trails in Tiago County, up in the northern part of the state. I also learned about Duchess County and the Hudson River Valley in New York – an amazing depth of history, nature, architecture, and even food and wine (including the oldest winery in the U.S.). I go to the show open to talk to many of the presenters to see what I may discover. It doesn’t disappoint.

wildlife, sloth, Busch Gardens, travel and adventure show

A sloth at the show (courtesy of Busch Gardens)

That was a sentiment other visitors expressed. Kimberly Robson, of Washington, D.C. told me how five years ago she went to the show looking for inspiration for adventure travel. She found it in the form of a non-profit organization that puts together treks around the world to help orphaned children. She was not quite envisioning that type of service opportunity but the show gave her the opportunity to learn about this organization with which by now she has trekked three times to Guatemala, Thailand, and Romania.

From the presenters’ standpoint, the value seems to be generating awareness which, fortunately for both, mirrors the objective of the visitors. From sharing about a lesser known county in a neighboring state to providing more depth of awareness into a more well-known destination, the presenters aim to broaden the network of potential visitors or “leads.”

The DC Travel and Adventure show has been running now for 10 years and the company is expanding into new markets like Philadelphia. I can’t wait for the day they decide to open the doors for the South to dream and explore about travel and adventure by doing a show in my hometown of Atlanta!