A Special Church in Tiberias: St. Peter’s Catholic Church

St. Peter holds a special place in the Catholic Church as the chosen apostle to lead Christ’s church. The main church in Christendom, St. Peter’s Basilica, is understandably named after him. So it is no surprise that, during a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, one would run into a few churches also named after him! I visited two such churches in Galilee. In this first of two posts, I will share about St. Peter’s Catholic Church in Tiberias, on the shores of the Sea of Galilee (which is technically a lake but its waves can be so strong, it resembles a sea – I am told), also called Lake of Tiberias.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
St. Peter standing guard

About the town of Tiberias

Tiberias is an old town built by Herod Antipas in AD 20 to honor (or, suck up to?) the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Though not initially appealing to the Jewish population of the land, eventually the city became a center of Jewish life over the centuries to the point that it is one of the four holy cities of Judaism in the Holy Land.

Tiberias’ population runs about 40,000 people and it is sort of a resort town (with even party boats!). It also sits at 200m below sea level.

History of St. Peter’s Church in Tiberias

The church dates to the 1100s when the Crusaders built it. It did not stay long in Christian hands as the Muslims took it over less than 100 years later and converted it to a mosque. As the centuries passed, Christians would go from Nazareth to visit the site (paying the Muslims, of course). Eventually, as happened over the centuries across the Holy Land, the Western Christian Church (before any split had occurred) started acquiring sites deemed holy.

It is important to share that at the time of the construction of the church there was the Western Christian Church and the Eastern Christian Church (as of the great schism of 1054). The Western Christian Church is the Catholic Church which had a few “spin-offs” during the Reformation and after.

Back to the story… So in the 18th century, the Franciscans (official custodians of holy sites and sanctuaries in the Holy Land from the Western Christian Church) bought the property and later built the complex around it as a monastery.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Part of the monastery, where guest rooms are

St. Peter’s Catholic Church Today

Today, the church is in a Franciscan complex which also hosts a pilgrim’s house called Casa Nova. Casa Nova has 25 rooms (basic but with good A/C!) and has an inner courtyard where the church sits. Besides this one in Tiberias, there are other Casa Novas in the Holy Land. I stayed 5 nights at the one in Bethlehem which is a jewel as it stands right next to the Church of the Nativity.

The church structure is not visible from street level due to the complex walls. From the lakeshore, one can see the back of the church and the identification of the structure as St. Peter Catholic Church.

Interestingly, the church is in the shape of a ship as St. Peter was a fisherman before becoming a follower of Christ. Its website says: “It symbolizes the Church of Christ resisting storms according to the divine promise that “the gates of the netherworld shall not prevail against it” (Mt 16,18).

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Entrance to the church

The interior of St. Peter’s Catholic Church

The interior is simply but powerful in evoking the story of St. Peter: the miracle of the catch of fish, his naming as first among the Apostles, his building of the church of Rome, and his martyrdom.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
The view as one enters: the altar and its mosaics
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Beautiful depiction of St. Peter the fisher of men
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Below St. Peter on the boat and right above the altar
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land, holy water
Holy water bowl

I found it unusual among the holy sites and sanctuaries I visited over the 10 day pilgrimage. It was only really visited by the people staying at Casa Nova (perhaps a few others?) allowing respite from the crowds of pilgrims and tourists. This allowed for the right environment to sit quietly in prayer and thanksgiving.

St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
Fisher of men, leader of the Christian Church, …
St. Peter Catholic Church in Tiberias Israel in the Holy Land
… “tend my sheep”

Beautiful Sirmione, Lake Garda’s Jewel

The town of Sirmione, Lake Garda is on the northern tip of a tiny peninsula that juts out of the lake’s southern shores. Lake Garda is the largest of Italy’s northern lakes and is very close to Verona.

I had never heard of it until 2021 when I went to the area to hike in the Dolomites. At that time, I was doing an overnight in Verona and decided to hop on the train for the short ride to Peschiera del Garda. Peschiera sits at the southeastern tip of the lake and just a little closer to Verona.

Second time visiting Lake Garda

In 2022, I got to return to Verona and decided that perhaps I would not overnight there but, instead, somewhere on Lake Garda’s shore. I started researching alternatives to Peschiera and discovered Sirmione. I opted for making a stop in Verona along the way for lunch at a restaurant I discovered the prior year, and then spending the balance of the day enjoying Sirmione.

Sirmione has a little bit of everything!

To enter the heart of the town, you must cross a bridge and go through the main gate. Once you enter the gate into the old town, it is pedestrian – for the most part. There are oodles of places to eat, have some gelato or perhaps a beverage.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

Sirmione is known for thermal baths, for being a beautiful “town”, for its resort-like R&R offerings, and its amazing old medieval castle.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
One of the spas intown

There are also the ruins of a Roman villa on the tip of the peninsula itself! This town has it all.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
The ruin of the Roman villa

A different way to appreciate Sirmione

We opted for a boat ride around the peninsula to appreciate the town from a different vantage point. The tour boats are usually located right outside of the gate to the town; easy to find. The boat ride was super fun as our captain/guide was quite a character. I recommend going right before the sun begins to lower for the best light for photos!

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
My Mom looking like a movie star!

Our lodging right outside the town gate

We stayed outside of the town but almost as close to the gate as possible on the west side of the peninsula. It is a skinny peninsula with only one road. Our hotel was small and super nice. My room’s balcony faced the park in the direction of the town’s gate but if I just looked left, I had a view of the lake.

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride
Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

While Sirmione may be off the main path of most tourists visiting Italy, if you want to branch out and see a different Italy in a beautiful natural setting, Sirmione is it!

Sirmione, Lake Garda, peninsula, Verona, Italy's lake district, medieval castle, roman villa, roman ruins, lake boat ride

Cheese Town in The Netherlands: Gouda

As my trip to The Netherlands was taking shape, I was looking forward to visiting the town eponymous with cheese: Gouda. I had never stop to contemplate what this cheese town in The Netherlands could actually be like, much less look it up.

Gouda’s name doesn’t sound like it reads

Once in The Netherlands, I learned the town name is pronounced something like “Hao-da”. It does sound ridiculous vs. the pronunciation of the letters in English (or Spanish, or many other languages). But that is the cool thing about Dutch: it is very much its OWN thing. I tried not to be pretentious since it was only a half-day visit. So I stuck to “Goo-da” but I avoided saying it in front of locals to not offend 🙂

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring
Approaching town center coming from the nearby train station

Getting to Gouda

My visit to Gouda would be a daytrip from Rotterdam. Staying in Rotterdam, made it very easy to squeeze in a side trip since the ride was so short – about 20+ mins. From the Gouda train station, it was a 5-min walk to the shopping/pedestrian street leading to the heart of town. Easy-peasy!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Tourist in Gouda

We stopped at the tourist info office at the heart of town (the “VVV“) and oriented ourselves. It is a small office and a good place to get info, plans, etc. if you have not done much research beforehand. They sell a handy and compact visitor booklet for 5 euros that is worth the spend. It orients you to town and the places to be sure to notice/see intown.

The tourist office is within a historic building, De Waag, where they weighed cheese brought in to the market for sale. Considering Gouda’s cheese market was established in 1198, we can say a lot of cheese has gone through it. Now, the Waag hosts the VVV and a small museum.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Town

We learned that Gouda became the “it” place for the cheese commerce beating other competitor towns. I thought the cheese was named for the town because it was made there but, no, it was made in the region. Gouda was just like the trading center. Who knew?

The central square still hosts a cheese market one day a week. The Gothic building at the center, City Hall or Stadhuis, built around 1450, was placed alone to avoid it catching fire should a fire start around it.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, city hall, stadhuis
Gouda, Holland, cheese town inThe Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, stadhuis, city hall, rathaus
Gouda, Holland, cheese town in The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring

Cheese Tasting

We opted to do a cheese exploration by visiting the Gouda Cheese Experience. It was a neat place with some hands-on interaction (not making cheese but in other ways) which made it interesting for kids and adults.

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience
True hands-on!

At the end, we had the chance to taste some cheeses before heading out. It was a good way to learn more about cheesemaking in all its aspects (ingredients, process, packaging, etc.).

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience, cheese tasting

Amazing stained windows at Sint-Janskerk

Taking a small side alley from the market square, one enters the quaint area around the church of St John’s (Sint-Janskerk). The area is small and kept much as it has been for ages. It became one of my favorite spots in The Netherlands!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, exploring, cheese experience
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Dutch canal
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Lazarus Gate
The beautiful Lazarus Gate
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, Lazarus Gate
The reverse (or garden-side) of the Lazarus Gate
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture

The church is protestantly sparse – devoid of the warmth that I am used to in a place of worship. However, it hosts 72 amazing 16th century stained windows (most of them, not all). These stained windows were taken down during WW II so they would not be destroyed. They were stored all over the place until the war ended and they could safely hang in their usual spots.

Using an audioguide is highly recommended (included in the entrance fee) to better appreciate the art and what it depicts. It was time well spent!

Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch cheese, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window
Gouda, Holland, cheese town, The Netherlands, travel, Dutch architecture, St John Church, Janskirk, stained glass window

The church was built in the mid-sixteenth century after fire destroyed the medieval church that was located there (not an uncommon fate for churches in those times). Another claim to fame is that it is the longest church in The Netherlands.


I hope this gives you a small glimpse into this curious Dutch town – and that perhaps you read this and it makes you want to eat some Gouda cheese!

An Attic Church in Amsterdam

When The Netherlands left Catholicism after the Reformation, all Catholic churches became Protestant churches. While the Dutch were able to practice any religion, Catholics were not allowed to practice Catholicism in any public setting (let’s say, a loose definition of religious freedom was at play; they were allowed to be Catholic but only to practice in private). Therefore, people turned to private settings for the celebration of Mass and house “churches” came about around the country, hence this attic church in Amsterdam came about.

Amsterdam’s hidden Catholic church

One such place has remained intact, as it was set up a couple of centuries ago. It is known today as Our Lord in the Attic. The man who built this setting for Mass in the connected attics of three houses also lived in one of the houses. He was a rich merchant in 17th century Amsterdam. His last name was Hartman so the church was known as the “Hart Church” for some time.

attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam
attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam
attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam, altar
attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam, altar

Visiting the attic church

One can visit this neat museum that still holds Mass on the first Sunday of each month and on Christmas Day. One not only can see the “church”, the priest’s quarters, but also the family’s residence.

The museum acquired a property across the side alley and the main entrance, shop, etc. are located there.. One goes downstairs to then, through a tunnel that runs under that side alley, one reaches where the visit begins.

In that space, one can see a model of the two buildings and visualize the space about to be explored. I recommend coming back and taking a look at the model ONCE the visit has been done.

Also, it is at that point where the visitor picks up the optional audio guide. The audio guide is included in the entrance fee (16.5 euros when I visited). It is highly recommended to use it so the place is better understood and appreciated.

attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, netherlands, things to see amsterdam, altar

The canal house hosting the attic church

The living quarters may seem austere to us today but the house seems to have been spacious. The rooms are not all loaded up with furniture to show how it exactly was but there are some pieces of furniture and art.

attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, things to see amsterdam, canal house amsterdam
Above: spacious living room. Below: dining room and bedroom!
attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, things to see amsterdam, canal house amsterdam
Grandiose room with a massive fireplace!
hidden catholic church, things to see amsterdam, canal house amsterdam, old kitchen
The house’s kitchen

A canal house with a great view of the canal

Take a look at the great view from the main level through the window and then from up higher. Of course, the area is now nicely painted and with modern vehicles but still a great view!

hidden catholic church, things to see amsterdam, canal house amsterdam
row houses Amsterdam, things to see amsterdam, canal house amsterdam

The priest’s quarters

As I mentioned earlier, the priest was also provided a place to live in the back. It seemed like a spacious and convenient spot even if without the canal view the owner and his family enjoyed. And a potty closet to boot!

attic church in amsterdam, hidden catholic church, things to see amsterdam, canal house
old toilet, old canal house amsterdam, things to see amsterdam

Crazy staircases!

Of note to me were the two original staircases that remain. Steep, curvy – they require paying attention to not trip or fall!

crazy steep staircases, old canal house amsterdam

This is likely not atypical for many of the houses in Amsterdam’s historic center. Yet one more reason to check out Our Lord in the Attic: to see how Amsterdam’s beautiful canal houses felt like back when and could still be today!

A Unique Spot in Verona: Piazza dei Signori

The Piazza dei Signori (or, “Piazza of the Gentlemen”) is right next to the more famous (and impressive) Piazza delle Erbe in the heart of Verona, Italy. It likely earned its name as it is surrounded by important buildings or “palazzos”. It is not as old as the Piazza delle Erbe – and it is perhaps less “electric”. However, the buildings that surround it are impressive from an architectural and historical standpoint.

Finding this lesser-known piazza

Coming from the Piazza delle Erbe, one enters the piazza through an alley above which hangs a large whale bone. Legend has it that it will fall once someone who has never lied walks under it. I have walked under it on two different visits to Verona and I can report it did not fall on me.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares, whale bone
Look up!

If you keep going you will enter the large piazza surrounded by interesting buildings, some cafes and a large open space with a statue at its center. Of course, the piazza has entries on all sides so it connects well to other parts of the old town.

The next photo is taken looking back from the Piazza dei Signori towards the alley where the whale bone hangs.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares, lamberti tower
Looking at the Palazzo della Raggione (left)

Important buildings all around

From the Loggia of the Council to a small church, the square is dotted by buildings that have housed administrative, political and judicial offices. They were built many centuries ago. For example, the Palazzo del Capitanio was built in the 14th century and the Loggia in the 15th. However, many of these buildings have undergone changes and renovations over the centuries, as can be expected. Their styles seem to differ enough to my untrained eye with the Loggia being more different than the others.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares

I would not call it a pretty square though it is charming enough. Verona’s Piazza delle Erbe or Krakow‘s main square, for example, best it in beauty and charm. But this piazza conveys well how these cities were run centuries ago through the history of these palazzos (OK, “palazzi” in proper Italian…).

One cool and grand staircase

The Palazzo della Ragione sits on the alley that connects the Piazza delle Erbe and the Piazza dei Signori. Construction of the palazzo started late in the 12th century but the building kept getting modified/added on for centuries. It evolved with the needs of the time. And it has served many purposes: political, administrative, and even commercial, hosting markets. Today the palazzo hosts a modern art museum and a district court.

The palazzo has an inner courtyard (also called Courtyard of the Old Market) with one of the most spectacular outdoors staircases I have seen in Italy: Scala della Ragione. I did not know to go find it. I just accidentally discovered it. The lesson from this is to pop in any open entranceway one runs into when exploring a town!

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares, torre lamberti, scalla della raggione

Climb and check out Verona from up high

If you have read other posts in this blog, you may have read that I enjoy climbing any tower or dome that gives me a great bird-eye’s view of any town.

Thankfully, the Palazzo della Ragione hosts the Torre dei Lamberti. This is the structure towering over the Scalla della Raggione in the photo above. This 84-meter tower offers a great 360 degree view of Verona. The tower was initially built in 1172 by the Lamberti family. If I understood right, it was made taller a little later (notice in the photo how it changes about halfway up).

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Looking down towards Piazza d. Signori towards the river
Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Piazza delle Erbe

The good news: there is an elevator for the climb so it is not all based on self-propulsion! And the ticket gives access to the modern art museum in the palazzo.

The main attraction: Dante Alighieri

As you can see, I discovered things I was unaware of. However, what drew me to this piazza was to see the statue to a famous guest resident of Verona: Dante Alighieri. Dante is Italy’s most pre-eminent poet and, possibly, of letters overall, not just poetry. The Divine Comedy with its hell, purgatory and heaven was written by an imaginative Dante in poetry form.

Dante, a Florentine by birth, exiled himself from his home town due to political drama. He never returned to Florence and is actually buried in Ravenna. At the 600th anniversary of his birth in the 19th century, the Veronese built the statue we now see in the piazza in his honor.

Piazza dei Signori, Verona, Italy, italia, architecture, Palazzo della Raggione, history, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, italian squares , view from above. tower in verona
Dante with the Loggia of the Council behind him

There is a lot to see in Verona. This piazza, though not the most famous of the sites in Verona, is well worth the visit.

It Is High Time to Explore Split!

In between Venice, Italy and Dubrovnik, Croatia lie a number of islands and coastal towns that form Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. I have been fortunate to have visited Dubrovnik twice – as charming a town as I have ever seen. But, in a recent trip along the coast, I got to spend a brief day in Split, not quite halfway between Dubrovnik and Venice and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While Dubrovnik beats Split in the picturesque category, Split is very pleasing to the eye and feels much more approachable and livable. I would rather spend a couple of weeks in Split than in Dubrovnik for sure.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, Jadrolinija ferry

A bit on how Split became important… Diocletian

Split is an old town in a continent of old towns. Its main claim to fame is the palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian as his retirement home. Diocletian retired from being emperor in a job that people did not get to retire from. Much as the late Pope Benedict XVI did in another job typically worked until natural (or otherwise) death came about.

Diocletian ruled in the late third century A.D. after doing a lot of things, including persecuting Christians in his empire. The bloodiest and largest persecutions conducted by Rome across the early A.D. centuries were his – nice guy… Diocletian was born in the Roman area called Dalmatia (a good bit of current Croatia). As many did before him, he rose through the Roman military’s ranks to become emperor.

The rare retired Roman emperor needs a palace

Diocletian decided to voluntarily leave the emperor role as illness had impacted him. He built himself a palace a short distance from the capital of the province of Dalmatia by the waters of the Adriatic.

His palace was built more like a fortress, surrounded by massive walls on all four sides (as the image below shows) and dotted by a number of towers. It also had four main gates, one on each side, with one of them facing the water.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
The left side faced the Adriatic

Today, land has been reclaimed so that gate is no longer opening up to boats but to cafes and other establishments that then face the water.

Retaining Roman walls in a modern setting

The “palace” retains some of the walls and a few towers as well as some of the structures from Diocletian’s time.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace

As you walk inside the so-called palace, you find amazing remnants of the original structure. For example, a small sphinx brought from Egypt, the vestibule area where people waited to enter the former emperor’s quarters, and the like.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, cistern
Former cisterns, later sewage dump, now often market stalls
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Sphinx on the lower left; entrance to emperor’s quarters ahead

A palace that is a town, still lived in

However, over the centuries buildings/structures have come and gone. The inside of the palace is more like an old town that is still being lived in – an ongoing residential area almost two millennia later.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace, church, arch

We heard that, unfortunately, private businesses are buying buildings to set up fancy boutique hotels, offer rental apartments for tourists, etc. This means that locals are being pushed out. It is a shame that it is taking place here (and many other charming towns across Europe) though one can see the appeal.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Diocletian palace

Markets always offer good photo opps!

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, market scene

Different architectural styles

If you pay attention as you walk around, you will notice the mark from different architectural styles from Roman to Venetian Republic to Hapsburg and more. I imagine it will mean a lot more to architects than to me but even I, a layperson, enjoyed seeing the contrasting styles in town.

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture, Venetian architecture in Croatia

An amazing town to check out

Split is much more than Diocletian’s palace. It is an important port and the many ferries coming and going to Italy and other towns and islands in the Adriatic are evidence of that. I am hoping to find a place to rent (outside of the palace!) and spend time chilling in this fantastic Adriatic and historical town!

Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Beautiful Adriatic sky and waters
Split, Croatia, Roman ruins, Dalmatia, Adriatic, coast, travel, history, architecture
Ciao, Split – ’til next time!

Dante, Dante, Where Are Thou? (As in Alighieri)

Dante Alighieri‘s Divine Comedy is a masterpiece of allegory, sharing with us the growth of the main character (Dante himself) as he traverses hell, purgatory and heaven. It has inspired many through the centuries (many centuries) since it was written. Including The Masquerade at Excelsior Mill in Atlanta with its three epic levels of hell, purgatory and heaven. But I digress.

Once an exile, always an exile

Dante was born in 1265 in Florence, Italy so he has been known for a LONG time. Due to politics (apparently, a nasty business not just in modern times), he had to flee his native town. Back then, Florence was a powerful republic, not just a city as we know it today.

He fled and took refuge in Verona, of Romeo and Juliet fame, where he is honored in a square – postcard #1.

Verona, Dante Alighieri, Divine Comedy, Divina Comedia, Italia, Italy

His Divine Comedy is a poem and I understand it is a brilliantly designed one in its original language: Italian. That -and a recent two-week trip- motivated me to learn Italian. I was able to actually hold conversations in Italian thanks to that effort. Though I am sure I butchered it a lot. In any case, he is the Shakespeare, the Cervantes of Italy and he pre-dates them. He is from the Middle Ages!

Death threat and actual death in Ravenna

Anyway, he was exiled on perpetuity and the pain of returning was being burned at the stake so one can understand why he did not return.

Sadly, he died at 56 of malaria in the Adriatic coastal city of Ravenna. Ravenna became an important city as Rome descended into chaos. It became capital of the Western Roman Empire in the early 5th century.

And that leads me to postcard #2 – his tomb in Ravenna. This tomb is from the 18th century. No, he did not live that long. Over the centuries, Florence regretted casting out this most famous of its sons and tried to get his remains back and even built a tomb. But, it remains empty as Ravenna has kept him all this time, even hiding his remains for some period of time to ensure they were not taken away. I think Ravenna should keep him…

Dante Alighieri, Ravenna, Dante tomb, Italy, Italia, Divina Comedia, Divine Comedy

How to read the Divine Comedy

I hope this unusual post in my blog was entertaining if nothing else. And, if you have never read the Divine Comedy, I recommend you do it. But with some guide to explain it along as there are a lot of hidden meanings, parallels across stories in the book, etc. It is well worth discovering this gem of Middle Age (or any age) literature – and if you can do it in Italian, even better!

Checking out Cloudland Canyon State Park

On a very cold fall morning (actually, late morning as it was 11:45AM) I started what would be a super cool hike in Cloudland Canyon State Park in NW Georgia. NW as in the true corner of Georgia where it meets Alabama and Tennessee, in the Cumberland Plateau. A friend selected this state park, two hours’ drive away from Atlanta, for our Sunday hike. Excellent choice!

The state park offers several trails but the most epic one is the one that allows the hiker to properly appreciate the Cloudland Canyon: the West Rim Loop Trail. Oh, and worth noting the park offers fishing, horseback riding trails, picnicking and the like. For those not hard-core hikers, the Overlook Trail offers a way to see some of the beauty.

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness
Approaching the trails from the parking lot

The West Rim Loop Trail

The trail actually starts with an in-and-out section that is about 1-mile+ long that crosses Daniel Creek. It is worth noting (and expressing gratitude!) that this state park is so well prepared for us hikers. It has excellent, readable signage (Iowa State University is a sponsor or supporter of these – thank you!) and very reliable trail markers (yellow for the West Rim Loop Trail).

There are some magnificent rock formations of different sorts, which are also seen further south in the trails of north Atlanta.  Certainly, one can envision how the natives in the area used those formations for their shelter.
Yellow marks the way!

Also, there are many well-prepared lookouts, many with very good and sturdy railings, and some vantage points just left open as nature set them up!

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness
One of the many vantage points
There are some magnificent rock formations of different sorts, which are also seen further south in the trails of north Atlanta.  Certainly, one can envision how the natives in the area used those formations for their shelter.

At the end of it (35 minutes later), it meets up with the loop part of the trail, about a 2-mile hike reaching about 1,900 ft altitude. We completely guesses which way to go once we got to the loop and we opted to go left.

Good choice. Though it starts with a long uphill, the left side offered a great view over a plain-like area and a town that I believe was Trenton, Georgia. At some point, the loop hit a rocky promontory sort halfway through and then the trail turned to face to east rim and rockface of the Cloudland Canyon.

Checking out rock formations

There are some magnificent rock formations of different sorts, which are also seen further south in the trails of north Atlanta.

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness
cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness

Certainly, one can envision how the natives in the area used those formations for their shelter.

hiking, rock formations, north Georgia, nature, outdoors, ilivetotravel
Not my home but in a bind…

The walls of a grand canyon

Wow! What a spectacular and long canyon-face! Certainly that was the part to see after passing the mid-point of the loop! One is rewarded with many lookouts (in-and-out very short trails) to enjoy the view.

cloudland canyon, georgia state park, nature, outdoors, hiking
cloudland canyon, georgia state park, nature, outdoors, hiking
cloudland canyon, georgia state park, nature, outdoors, hiking
cloudland canyon, georgia state park, nature, outdoors, hiking

Overall, the West Rim Loop Trail is 5 miles long. It took us 3 hours with the stops we made on the lookouts, random photos and snack/water breaks. There were other hikers but far from “crowded”.

One neat thing is that there are yurts and cabins in this trail. I think it would be awesome to do an overnight or two and see the scenery at different times of day.

Oh, and there’s more! Waterfalls!

Once we finished the trail, we went to see Cherokee Falls which is near the entrance to the trail. It is a spectacular climb down stairs (with the subsequent climb back up!) to get to it. The path that is not a staircase is much easier to handle!

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness

One passes a MASSIVE boulder hanging over the trail (with a bench under it).

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness
Don’t linger long under it!

The waterfall setting is well worth the trouble as were those at Panther Creek, another rewarding hike to a waterfall in north Georgia. My knees were a little sore when we finished the loop trail but, boy, did I make the right choice going down to see the waterfalls! The roundtrip to see the waterfall was a mile. Another mile roundtrip would have taken us to a downstream waterfall, Hemlock Falls. But, at 6 miles and my knees, I was glad to leave that for a future visit!

cloudland canyon state park, hiking, north Georgia, outdoors, nature, fitness
This is the reward – a spectacular spot!

If I were to return, besides trying to stay overnight at a yurt or cabin, I would certainly do it a little earlier in the fall because the color change of the trees would only add another level of spectacular to what is already a spectacular setting!

Rouen: Full of History in War and Art

France has so many destinations to explore, it is hard to cover them all or explore them as in-depth as they deserve. Even after living in Paris for 6 months many years ago, I could not cover all the territory that I would have liked. One of the towns that I always wanted to visit was Rouen, in Normandy. Why? Two things have always drawn me to it:

  • Its cathedral, made eternal not only by its construction but by its depiction by Claude Monet under different light and seasons.
  • Its infamous designation as the town were St. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake by the English at 18 years of age.

Getting there

From Paris, going to Rouen is a piece of cake. A two-hour train ride from Gare St. Lazare takes you to Rouen. From the train station in Rouen, a half-a-mile walk (or less) takes you into the center of town. There is a metro station near the train station and the heart of the town is just one or two stops away. But I recommend walking in as it is sort of downhill!

Surprised by Rouen

I am not sure what architecture I should have expected but I was surprised by the architecture in the old town. It looked a lot like the architecture that I saw around Strasbourg and Colmar in southeastern France. The town center was beautiful!


Monet’s Cathedral

Monet gave this old cathedral a favor by his work showing its glory in different times of year and under different light. I enjoyed playing with photo filters to re-enact his work with my layman’s skillset and tools…

The cathedral sports a magnificent façade that clearly lost a few statues at some point; some of the remnants can be seen inside the church. There are some tombs of former kings from over a millennium ago. Impressive.


Odd church… to St. Joan of Arc

As we walked in the old part of town, we saw this oddity in the middle of some square or plaza. It really looked weird and like it did not belong. The more I looked at it, the more it began to look like some Viking structure. It turned out to be the church built on the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake after being accused of many false things by the English (whom she had helped fight on the French side before she was even 19!). Once we identified what it was, the architecture began to make more sense.

The site was very moving. There is a very tall cross right outside the church on the spot where this poor and very brave young woman died for France. The inside of the church seems to fit the story. When I looked at the ceiling, the ceiling seemed to flow up to a point – like a flame would. It was all very moving indeed…


Crêpes!

When one goes to Paris, one is well-served by eating crêpes from the stands around town. But, in Normandy, eating crêpes is a must! We found a great mom-n-pop place, Kerso, where we enjoyed crêpes salés and crêpes sucrés for lunch. Really cool find!

Though only a half day visit, I definitely got my money’s worth and more checking out this most interesting of French towns!

One Most Eclectic Portuguese Palace – Sintra’s Pena Palace

Well, for those interested in one of the most eclectic palaces around, Portugal has one for the books: the Pena Palace in Sintra. Look no further for a Portuguese palace!

The town of Sintra

Sintra is a town easily reached from Lisbon; an hour away or so. It is very picturesque with its old district, windy and hilly alleys, and proximity to some interesting palaces/fortresses. The region around it is home to many ex-pats which makes it one of the more expensive areas of Portugal, much to the detriment of locals for whom the cost of real estate tends to go up in such scenarios.

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra (Moorish Palace on top of the hill)
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Narrow streets full of shops

But I digress… Visiting Sintra is a logical part of a circuit from Lisbon that could include the resort town of Cascais and Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point of continental Europe).

The Pena Palace

The main sight in the Sintra area is the Pena Palace. If you had asked me before to name a Portuguese palace, my mind would have gone blank. Pena Palace is quite a colorful sight with an eclectic mix of architectures. It sits on the site of a monastery that got destroyed in the massive earthquake that hit Portugal in the mid-1700s and devastated parts of the country. Its position atop the highest point in the area offers great views all around and towards Lisbon.

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
View towards the Moorish palace
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Fascinating set of architectural styles

It took until the 1830s for someone to pay attention to the site. That would have been King Ferdinand II, a German price who married well into the Portuguese royal family. King Ferdinand, along with the Queen, infused the construction with many different styles of architecture such as Romantic, Medieval and Islamic. The result is a collage of styles and color that is quite fascinating to behold.

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
My favorite elements is this entrance!

The palace remained a royal residence until Portugal shed its monarchy when the palace became property of the state. The interiors are typical of a palace.

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Low-ish elaborate ceiling in the dining room
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture, old kitchen
Massive kitchen!
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture, chapel
Small yet inspiring chapel
Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Moorish style courtyard – the centerpiece is very cool

Color me bright

The palace had lost its colors over the decades but that was addressed in the late 20th century when the original colors were restored.

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Great contrast between the dominant yellow and red

By the way, it is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites so if you make it to Portugal, you must check Pena Palace out!

Sintra, Portugal, Moorish Palace, travel, architecture
Be like these tourists – visit the palace!

A Phenomenal Spot to Chill in the Dolomites

The third day of my hike in the Dolomites had me being driven from the Sasso Lungo area to a cable car (funivia) leading to Sass Pordoi. It is a nice way to ease into a hiking day to start with a short drive as, unbeknownst to me, this day was not going to be an easy one! But the whole day was full of experiences and views I would not trade as we made our way from Sass Pordoi (9,343 ft – 2,848m) to the Rifugio (Hütte) Kostner (8,366 ft – 2,550 m) at the Sella Group (east of the Langkofel, north of the Marmolada). Hiking and -then- chilling in the Dolomites is for me!

Dolomites, hiking, Italia, Italy, travel, outdoors
Here we are at the 25th switchback out of so many (I stopped looking)

The grandeur of the Dolomites

The views from the cable car exit point at Sass Pordio were fantastic. It was 41F (5C) when we got up there around 9:40AM but, with those views, who cares!

Dolomites, hiking, Italia, Italy, travel, outdoors, Sass Pordoi, funivia, terrazza delle dolomite
The entrace to the funivia and the board at the top
Dolomites, hiking, Italia, Italy, travel, outdoors
Look at that! The grandeur!!
Dolomites, hiking, Italia, Italy, travel, outdoors, Sasso Lungo, massif, funivia Sass Pordoi
Behind me, the Sasso Lungo massif where I stayed the prior night, Facing me, the sun.

The back trail to Rifugio Kostner

We walked a short distance and we got to a small rifugio (Forcella Pordoi). It was too early in the day’s hike for a stop so I knew we would continue along the nice trail ahead. Looking to the right, flanked by two large stone massifs was a path down that I assumed would be a black slope in the winter if not a double diamond. And then I learned that was the path we were going to continue one.

Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner
The gap through which we would descend…

I t was quite the sight… Ahead was a snaky path down over scree that required a lot of skill (we were reminded of the technique to handle the terrain). I can’t recall how long it took us to make it all the way down but I “mastered” the technique after like 10 mins when I decided I needed to pass those who had not quite mastered it yet as watching people take mis-steps sort of put me on edge and I was risking a solid slip-n-fall. I ended up catching up with two of my fellow hikers in the lead and we got a nice break while we waited for the rest of the gang to make it down to the lowest point we would hit, before hanging a left.

Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner
The gap and the descent; gets steeper as you look up to the right.

Rocks-n-Slopes ‘R Us

Right when we made the left, we hit a very rocky path along route 626. It would be on-and-off rocky / boulder-y which was a little scarier than the downhill scree as a fall would be potentially more painful / risky. I walked with good care and had a couple of almost-falls that felt painful on my left arm as I suddenly swung my hiking pole to prevent the falls. Those brusque movements contributed to a partial tear on my rotator cuff as I would learn weeks after the hike. But, no pain, beyond a fleeting moment, those couple of times or during the remaining part of the trek, thankfully…

Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
The rocky path
Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada, route 626
Route 626 shows the way! Still rocky
Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Looking towards the Marmolada and a key part of the WWI frontlines
Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
When it was not rocky, it was steep!
Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Look at the leg span and that guy is over 6 ft tall!
The path closely followed the massif wall. Finally, we were a tad more than an hr away!

We seemed to be hugging a large massif. At some point we ran into WWI barbed wire. This whole region was engaged in WWI skirmishes and battles on-and-off for three solid years; the highest altitude battle site of that scale. More died due to particularly bitter winters or due to avalanches… There were a few mountains that were partially blown-up for tactical reasons during those years. The next day we would stay atop one of those…

Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Barbed wire

In any case, at some point, we turned a “corner” and off in the distance we could see our rifugio for the night. It seemed so close… yet, it would take another hour to reach it. So close, yet so far…

Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
The red oval marks the spot – can you see the rifugio??
Forcella Pordoi, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
A close-up. Do you see it now??

Perfect spot for chilling in the Dolomites

But what a reward for our efforts! Rifugio Kostner was my favorite of all the rifugios and that is saying a lot because I liked all. It is run by the Agreiter family and you can tell by looking at the staff that most are related. They were not the typical loud, smiley, friendly Italian but were very service-oriented and ran the place ship-shape; my kind of place! It was neat to see them take their dinner together after they cleaned up from our dinner.

Aaaaaahhh!!!
sunset, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
The dining room

It had a great outdoor deck to enjoy the views after finishing the hike, a generous piece of their apple strudel loaded with real cream, and some vino (we discovered Lagrein wine during this trip – it became one of my favorites).

 Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada, Veneto
Enjoying the deck and the sun!
apple strudel, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
That was DELICIOUS and DECADENT. All this hiking

Seeing that piece of strudel and the cream you may understand why after days and days of hiking I did not lose a pound of weight (thankfully, neither did I gain).

Lagrein wine, Sella Group, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Nice Lagrein wine
wine, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Hard to beat!

Sunset & sunrise in the Dolomites

The views were magnificent in broad daylight, sunset or sunrise as the pics below will show (though they will not do justice).

wine, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada, sunset
Sun setting behind the massif
sunset, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Looking across to the next day’s path at sunset
sunset, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Continuing the view; and in the red circle, our next rifugio! Yikes.
sunrise, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Sunrise the next morning – just stunning

Food at Rifugio Kostner

Of course, the meal deserved its own homage through this small collage – as did the breakfast…

dinner at rifugio, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Everything was outstanding!
breakfast, Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Perfect to start a hiking day!
 Sella Group massif, Dolomites, hiking, trekking, Rifugio Kostner, Marmolada
Departing view. Such a cool place!

Want to read more about my hike in the Dolomites. Check out:

  • Day 1 – Rosengarten Massif
  • Day 2 – Sassolungo Massif

The Best of Venice – Get Lost in Its Neighborhoods

In a prior post, I shared some images of Venice‘s majestic boulevard: its Grand Canal. From the modern pedestrian bridge near the train station to the iconic Rialto Bridge to St. Mark’s Square – and many palazzos in between, that post showcased Venice but now, the best of Venice!

However, I enjoy Venice a lot more when I begin meandering the alleys and small piazzas “far” from the tourist areas anchored on the Grand Canal. I say far in quotation marks because Venice is not that big and you are never far from the Grand Canal given its grand meandering that always manages to disorient me. You think you may be at the opposite end of Venice if you judge by the Grand Canal’s route but then you look at a map and see that really are not far at all from the other end of Venice!

While tourist Venice can be overwhelming most times of the year with the crowds, its back alleys can be a different story. And you get to see more of how locals live – and remember Venice is a residential place, not just a tourist attraction for us visitors.

So, I stop writing here and share images of the Venice I love the most!

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