Hamburg’s Silent but Loud Witness to World War II

20 August 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Hamburg, as many German cities, was ravaged by World War II. You can see sometimes structures that pre-date the war and, then, lots of newer construction post-war. And there are structures that perhaps were not totally lost but repaired/re-constructed. But there are rarely any that remain as they were right when the war came to an end. Plain and simple record of how the city looked. St. Nicholas Church in the heart of Hamburg is one of those places that silently stand as a testimonial to the destruction of war, almost completely as it stood at the end of the war (minor repairs to the belltower). (Another example is Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church in Berlin.)

Hamburg, St. Nicholas Church, Germany, WWII ruins, Hamburgo, travel, Alemania

Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

St. Nicholas Church and its short history

St. Nicholas Church was not an old church at the time of WWII. It had been re-built from a fire that destroyed the church as it existed on that site in the 1840s. The last church was completed in the 1870s and stood fully there until WWII – so it was about 70 years old until it was destroyed by bombs.

A remaining wall by the tower (L) and the opposite end of the church (R)

Detail of the foot of a column

In reading about the church, I learned that, for a couple of years after it was built, it was the tallest building in the world (taken over by the Cathedral of Rouen when it got finished in 1876).

After WWII, the St. Nicholas Church could have been re-constructed but it was decided to keep it as a memorial. Remaining standing outer walls were leveled years after the war. Some were not in favor of this as great architecture was lost. Attention was not paid to the site after that and it further decayed. That was until 1987 when it was prepared to serve as a place of remembrance.

Memorial

Great views of Hamburg and its history

Nowaways, one can ascend the tower (for a small fee) via an elevator installed in 2005 and take in views of this great city from 76m high (the tower is almost twice as tall). At the same time, the viewing area shows pictures of the vicinity as it looked at the end of the war.

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Poor picture of one of the photos in the viewing platform showing the destruction around the church

As many cities do, Hamburg has many great corners to explore, such as the Blankenese district in its outskirts. St. Nicholas Church is one of those places that carries a lot of meaning and conveys it effectively without needing to over-dramatize, over-complicate, or over-explicitly-explain. Clearly, I highly recommend visiting the site AND going up. The images from the past and from today are well worth it. So, to wrap this post up, ere are some of the views from up high!

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View of other churches in Hamburg’s city center: St. Peter and St. Jacob

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Hamburg’s Rathaus and the Binnenalster “lake” in the background

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View towards the impressive Concert Hall and the Speicherstadt District

Check out Hamburg’s Unique Blankenese Stair District

12 August 2018 by Raul Leave a Comment

Hamburg, in northern Germany, is one of its largest cities. This normally would equate to crowded, polluted, and just endless. Well, it may be a little of those things but I only felt the latter. Hamburg is really a collection of many areas (as most cities are). Among the most charming parts of the city is the outer district called Blankenese, one of my 12 cool things to do in Hamburg. It is a former fishing village – now one of the most affluent neighborhoods of Hamburg. But its status as a wealthy place is not what makes me recommend it. Instead, it is its “stairs” quarter – its “treppenviertel“.

A friend’s recommendation in Hamburg

A friend who lives in Hamburg recommended heading out to the area west of Altona‘s city center to check out the quarter (“viertel“) where ship owners used to live back in the day. This quarter in Blankenese is in a very steep area leading down to the Elbe River. Houses were built on the hillside and, given the times, roads were not needed/built but stairs (“treppen“) were. And there are plenty!

We drove out from Hamburg passing incredible little mansions right by the Elbe River until we got to Blankenese. We had no precise instructions but, quickly, we realized we had gotten to the point in town in question.

Exploring Blankenese’s “Treppenviertel“

At first, we thought we were looking for one major staircase down to the river until we noticed all the big and small paths and stairs connecting all the hillside houses overlooking the Elbe.

The houses were charming partly due to their architecture, partly due to the views, and partly due to their charming gardens. It was neat to explore though, as we were heading out to Lübeck, we could not walk around too much. Suffice it to say, it was well worth the drive out to experience this unique district and also to enjoy the drive along the river passing all the magnificent houses along the way!

Nice path’s along the stair district – no paths for cars!

Glad this district’s buildings survived the ravages of war

The old hotel by the beach

6 Tips for Visiting Berlin’s Pergamon Museum

5 August 2018 by Raul 4 Comments

Berlin is loaded with history, be it from before Germany itself existed as a political entity, to the times of the “kaisers”, to two World Wars, to the Cold War, and to current times. The collection of history can be found all over: in churches, buildings, monuments. But also within the walls of the many museums the city hosts. The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is one of the preeminent museums of the city – and of Germany. Before I share my list of Pergamon Museum tips, some background on the museum first…

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What is the Pergamon Museum about?

Pergamonmuseum, as it is called in German, covers some of antiquity’s most fascinating history from the Fertile Crescent and adjacent areas. Think Mesopotamia, Babylon, the Assyrians, etc. It also goes into older but not ancient history in the Middle East. For example, the various dynasties that arose after the founding of Islam. And then into Islamic art as it manifests itself through time and geographies, such as the Muslim era in Spain.

It is a broad range of topics and many may or may not sound familiar. However, items like the Ishtar Gate and the Market Gate of Miletus are imposing and impressive and likely known to some. (Ishtar may sound familiar because it was the name of one of the worst movies ever with Dustin Hoffman and Warren Beatty…).

The Ishtar Gate was one of the many gates in ancient Babylon and dates from about the 6th century B.C. Amazing, huh??

What is THE most famous piece in the museum?

However, the most important piece exhibited is the Pergamon Altar. The Pergamon Altar was not given that name because of the museum but, actually, the reverse. The reconstructed altar exhibited in the museum was from the ancient Greek town of Pergamon in what is now Turkey. German archaeologists uncovered it and brought its ruins to Germany in the late 19th century to reconstruct it.

Sadly, the wing where the Pergamon Altar is housed is undergoing major renovations and I could not see this grand piece (bummer!). The altar will re-open for visitors in 2019 or 2020 after about a 5-year closure. It better be a grand wing after a 5-year project!

Gate Miletus, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Market Gate of Miletus (as much as could fit!)

Assyrian Palace, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Reconstruction of Assyrian Palace. Here, a Lamassu (human headed bull)

How long has the museum been around?

Its current building dates from 1930 but the original museum was first established in that location, on Berlin’s Museum Island, since 1909.

Berlin Museum Island, Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, where is the Pergamon Museum, Germany — Pergamonmuseum is on the top of the map

Is all the stuff exhibited real??

It is worth noting that not every item is original. Some of the items have been re-assembled like complicated jigsaw puzzles from antiquity. It was not always possible to find every piece to these archaeological puzzles. So, either the spots were left “blank” or were filled in with material reproducing what was likely in the spot.

Unbeknownst to me, some of the items are just replicas made from molds cast on the original pieces which may sit in another museum elsewhere around the world. Despite all this, the pieces shown, large and small, help one understand the forms, shapes, colors and motifs that were representative of the different periods.

roof Alhambra, Granada, Islamic art, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum, Berlin museums, ancient art — Roof from the Alhambra in Granada – great Islamic art

All the exhibits are properly signed in German and English with very minor exceptions which are usually tags for small objects here and there. Most of it will be explained in one of those aforementioned languages!

How long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum?

Let me start by noting that at any given time part of the museum may be closed for restoration or renovations, as I shared earlier. The museum is currently also being expanded to better flow through its wings. This means the ancient Greek exhibits are also offline.

So, back to the question: how long does it take to see the Pergamon Museum? Of course, some of that depends on whether you are just a walker looking at things as you move or whether you stop to contemplate. Also, how much of the larger explanatory panels you stop to read (which I highly recommend – otherwise, seeing old objects will not be of much meaning…). It took me about 2.5-3 hours to see what was available to me.

Aleppo room, Pergamonmuseum, Pergamon Museum tip, Berlin museums, ancient art — Aleppo house room from 1600s, thankfully saved from the destruction going on in that Syrian city

Pergamon Museum Tip #1: take your time and breaks

It was easy to move through the museum as it was not like a maze. The two open floors had a flow to them which facilitated staying on course. It was also a welcomed feature that there were places to sit all over!

Pergamon Museum Tip #2: make a stop at the restroom BEFORE you enter the exhibits

One unfortunate feature of the museum is that the ONLY restrooms (at least in the wings that were open when I went…) are located on the lobby of the museum when you enter the building, by the lockers. The restrooms are located OUTSIDE the area where they scan your ticket to access the exhibits. I suppose you can exit and re-enter the museum but you would have to backtrack down to the ground floor (no exhibits are located on the ground floor). Most inconvenient and not visitor-friendly at all…

Pergamon Museum Tip #3: combine visits when you go

Berlin’s Museum Island, where the Pergamonmuseum is located right off Unter den Linden, a main thoroughfare in Berlin. It is right by the Berliner Dom (Berlin’s Cathedral) and next to at least three other museums on the island (the Bode Art Museum, the Altes Museum, and the Neues Museum).

The DDR Museum, showcasing how life was in East Germany (the Communist one), is also nearby. While my tolerance for time in museums is likely capped at 4-5 hours for a given day, I suggest coupling the Pergamon with the lighter DDR Museum. The DDR Museum may take about 1.5-2 hours tops. Or couple the Pergamon visit with a visit to the Berliner Dom.

Pergamon Museum Tip #4: avoid crowds

OK, this tip is not rocket science… Currently, the museum is open 7 days a week from 10 AM until 6 PM, except Thursdays when it stays open until 8 PM. However, it is a very popular attraction so to lessen the size of the crowd around you, go when it opens (there will be a crowd at any time but maybe a little less).

Pergamon Museum Tip #5: avoid the line to get in

Who loves standing on long lines? Yep, silence… I thought so! As with many places these days, one can buy tickets online, thereby saving a long line to buy the tickets. Also, when one gets the tickets online, one reserves a 30-min arrival time slot to get in. When I arrived, I pretty much strolled right up to the entry guards. As you can see in the photo below, there was a long and slow line of folks waiting to get their ticket – on a very hot day (there was shade at least where they were standing).

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, pergamon museum tip — See how long the line is? The sign tells you where to go if you already have your ticket

Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, online tickets, tips for pergamon museum — To the left, the line. To the right, the clear path to get in!

Pergamon Museum Tip #6: get the audioguide

The ticket I bought online cost me 12 euros. This ticket included getting the audioguide, that most necessary of tools to make a museum visit more educational. Key rooms and artifacts have numbers that one punches in on the audioguide. The explanations on average are 2-3 minutes long. Short enough to not bore, and long enough to sit on a bench and rest the feet from all the walking (I had walked TONS around town the days I was there and my feet were achy!).

Clearly, I highly recommend a couple of hours in this museum to anyone curious or fascinated by art, history, archaeology, and such things! More info on the museum can be found here.

Have you visited the Pergamon? What was your favorite item? Other museums in Berlin you like? Share by leaving a comment!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: art, Berlin, berlin Museum Island, culture, Islamic art, Pergamon Museum, Pergamonmuseum, things to do in berlin

Camino Packing and Training Tips

2 April 2018 by Raul 6 Comments

The Camino de Santiago has become a very popular destination/experience for many around the world, especially after the movie “The Way” hit the movies screens and as more people do it. People of all ages and nationalities gravitate to this, as did I and a group I traveled with last summer to hike the Camino. So far, I have written about each of our 7 days in a series of posts (start here with Day 1). But I’d thought I’d devote some time to sharing Camino packing and training tips.

While this is not an exhaustive treatise on each of the topics, it should give you a good high-level understanding on training. I hope it also helps you develop a good packing list with what to wear and items you will need. Please feel free to ask questions or suggest your own tips via the comments section below.

How fast can you do the Camino de Santiago

How strenuous the day is on the Camino de Santiago depends on how much ground you plan to cover on a given day. If you are young (read: in your 20s or early 30s), you likely think you can attack the Camino and do over 20 miles a day, perhaps 30. That’s crazy talk. Yes, you physically may be able to but a couple of things:

1. After a couple of days of pushing this way, your body will let you know how crazy that was. I have heard the horror stories. Don’t be over-ambitious.

2. More importantly, you are missing the point of the Camino. Yes, getting to the destination is the “aim.” But the point is to be on a journey, a pilgrimage (whether spiritual or emotional). Moving at the speed of sound renders this experience as just checking an item off the bucket list. Which, if it is all it is for you, then fast speed might as well be your friend because you will get bored not seeing it as an experience for such a long way. No judgment here, just saying that soaking it in is probably best.

The answer to this question could also depend on how much of the Camino are you planning to cover. I only had a week and had to do the minimum distance to get the Compostela (the famous certificate granted to provide pilgrims with proof that they did indeed make it to Santiago de Compostela). Therefore, I had to make sure I covered the distance. Yet, I had enough time to sit for leisurely lunches and also not have to wake up at the crack of dawn. I’d peg my speed at the mid-point with my max distance on a given day around 12-14 miles.

How to train to do the Camino

Let’s start the packing and training tips for doing the Camino with the latter. The Camino is not Everest Base Camp or Mt. Kilimanjaro but that does not mean it is easy. The challenges posed by the Camino are different than those epic climbs. While altitude is a factor in those hikes, that is not the case with the Camino.

The mountains or hills faced in the Camino will not compare to hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or getting to Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro. But if you walk more than the minimum distance required to get the Compostela, you will need to prepare for some good climbs. And the corresponding downhills (always fun on the delicate knees of a hiker…).

The final factor to keep in mind is that while there may not be tons of steep hills nor altitude, this hike puts a lot of stress on your feet. When I climbed Kilimanjaro, the distances walked on a given day were well in the single-digits in terms of miles (maybe it got to double digits in kilometer-land). Yes, it was difficult due to low oxygen and steepness but it was not brutal on my feet. Don’t get me wrong, when I would arrive at camp, I was desperate to take off my boots! But the Camino is much more unforgiving when it comes to your feet. They take a beating, so make sure they keep on ticking.

What to consider to build your Camino packing list

Before I get into the key items for your Camino packing list, clearly whether you are carrying all your stuff on your back or not makes a big difference. Yes, there is an option to NOT carry it all yourself from place to place! Now, that may not be your style and all that, and that’s OK. But, for some, it is the way to go and it was for me 🙂

Regardless of how you do it, I will still issue the same warning: don’t over-pack. You will be amazed at how little you can get by with. A lot less than you think. And worst comes to worst, you can go to a local store along the way and buy what you need…

But I also say that because going on this journey, in my view, is about changing some parameters about our lives. Develop new insights, clear our heads, have new experiences, and -hopefully- be renewed in whatever way we may need to. So, with all that said, here are some things that I deemed important to take along my Camino…

What to pack for the Camino

Feet

Good walking shoes or boots. Without good shoes that you have broken in BEFORE the Camino, you will be in trouble. Don’t be cheap about this item. Cheap out on the camera or other items but not on this, my friends! These could be boots or walking shoes. The former gives you better ankle protection. The latter may feel more comfortable. You may want both to alternate. After many days of wearing the same show, you may long for a different pair… Up to you (as are all the tips I share here!). Certainly, I would say, get waterproof in case it rains.

Along with the shoes, go non-cotton socks. What good is a pair of proper and broken in walking shoes if you are going to just slap on cotton socks? Cotton socks are an invitation for blisters and the painful fun that means for the few days after you develop them. Wool socks and, ideally, liners complete the most important focus of your gear list: your feet.
Now, if the socks and shoes don’t do it and a blister seems imminent (sometimes blisters just develop…), you must quickly take action to prevent the blister from materializing. At that point, you want to protect the spot where you are beginning to feel the burning (which is exactly what you feel BEFORE the blister arrives). The simplest and cheapest solution is to place a small piece of duct tape on that spot on your foot. Yes, stop, take footwear off and apply the small patch of duct tape – don’t wait. So duct tape is a must-carry on any hike with the added side benefit that you can repair other things with it as needed. But don’t carry the roll, for goodness’ sake! Wrap duct tape on a pencil or on your hiking pole and you will save space and weight.
In case things go too far and you develop a blister, a blister repair kit is a good idea to bring along. I was the beneficiary of a fellow’s trekker blister “repair” kit coming down Kilimanjaro and became a believer. I don’t recall the brand I used on the Camino but the item below is the one I bought for my next hike in Patagonia.

Clothing

Now we can get past all things feet. From a clothing standpoint, the usual advice applies here.

Layers. The weather can vary and some high spots can get very cold. And depending on the time of year, it could get quite warm during the day. So plan to have layers which help manage the changes you may experience throughout the day.
Waterproof. At some point, you may encounter rain so you want proper rain gear which might as well also serve as wind-breaking gear. In terms of things to wear, make sure it is really waterproof (Gore-Tex). Waterproof also refers to protecting the contents of your backpack, whether by placing a bag over your backpack or putting the contents of your backpack in plastic bags. Your choice!
Wicking. Since you may not be carrying one-for-every-day in the underwear category and to help your skin remain “un-irritated”, wicking underwear is a good idea. It removes humidity before sweat covers your skin which prevents bad odors. And, hence, should you decide to wear them more than once between washings, then at least you know you will not smell! Because my hike was only 7 days, I had underwear for every day but I still used wicking underwear for the comfort of not developing chaffing, etc.

Temperatures. Plan for a range of temperatures. This ties to the layers bit but also realize that, at night when you are not hiking, you may want to sit outdoors and it may get chilly at night, even in the summer depending on the weather system on a given day in your area. So some light jacket in the summer may be appropriate for the evenings; perhaps more substantial at other times of the year
Comfort. Be sure the materials you wear are comfortable to you. During 6-8 hours of hiking, you want to be comfortable not itching or something else. When you get to the next town, you WILL want those walking shoes off and will love slipping into some flip flops, sandals or running shoes or whatever other comfortable footwear you like. Bring only one of those, no need to overdo it, but allow yourself this luxury! (Flip flops could be handy to shower in communal showers if that’s your accommodation style!)

Miscellaneous

Hunger avoidance devices (read: snacks). You will not hungry on this trek! Plenty of places to stop and get a snack or a meal at very reasonable prices. Carrying two boxes of protein or granola bars is wasted weight and space and, more importantly, keeping you from sampling local foods and snacks. So, just carry what you buy locally or just stop along the way!
A camera! You can certainly opt for a different kind of travel if you are not drawn to capturing memories in this manner. Journaling, for example, may be a better way for some. For yours truly, though, the imagery of a place not only captures my attention but is also a way I use to be able to share what I experience. Along with this go the requisite battery charger or extra batteries and an appropriate number of SD cards 🙂 I do like the wifi SD card which allows me to transfer photos out of my SD card onto another device (good for backup or to clear memory on the SD card).
Toiletries and accessories. Yep, you know what this list is about (toothbrush, deodorant, etc.) so no need to detail it nor give you too much advice. But I will call out some things… First, bring travel-sized items. Second, see how much stuff you can live without. Do you really need a hair dryer? (No judgment implied!) Finally, some items I will recommend… Some hand lotion/moisturizer is a good idea. Chapstick is a must. Also, some antibacterial liquid (e.g., Purell) is a must along, Finally, add wipies to the list but no need to bring more than a handful per day, actually.
First aid. While there are kits out there, I just go with common sense and practical. There are drug stores and the like in the towns you will pass so no need to overdo it. Some band-aids, some anti-diarrhea meds in case you can’t make it to them town (no one had troubles of this sort in our group), some anti-inflammatory in case something hurts (knees, for example), and the like should make a good kit. As a packing tip, I used ziploc bags that are half of the regular sandwich bag to pack meds. This eliminated the need to carry bottles which can occupy more space. Whether you want to get Cipro (digestive system antibiotic), Ambien (to sleep) or anything else, it is up to you and your doctor. I took none of those meds though I take Cipro when I go to some destinations. Of course, if you are taking prescription drugs, bring those and write down somewhere the main ingredient (vs. the medication name). If something happens and you need to get more locally, the main ingredient is what you need.
Night light. If you will be sleeping in shared accommodations, this comes in handy to minimize disrupting others’ sleep and/or preventing you from tripping in the middle of the night as you make a night run to the restroom 🙂 I prefer headlamps like this one so I can be “hands-free”; please don’t make me explain why 🙂

Backpack. Please, whatever you do, do not bring a Swiss Army backpack (well-designed as they are for the frequent traveler) or, even worse, your college backpack. You will be likely carrying more weight than you are used to. And, I guarantee, that your back and shoulders will appreciate you bringing a backpack with a waist strap and a chest strap to help distribute the impact of the load on your upper body. Plus be sure the main straps and the backpack have some padding where they will touch your body. Remember, it is many days of carrying it so be good to yourself. And size does matters, when it comes to backpacks. Will the size you get be able to fit all that you will carry on your back every day? Remember, if you want the convenience, there are services that every day pick up your luggage and deliver it to the next place you will stay (if you know in advance). With this option, you only carry what you need during your walk. Bottom line: figure out how much you need the backpack to carry (don’t forget to account for the water!) and then choose a size.

Backpack cover. Along with this, have something ready to cover your backpack if it rains. Trust me, no matter what they say, water will get in if it rains enough (e.g., think of the zippers). You can buy a backpack cover (some backpacks come with it) or, save money and bring a nice size, good quality trash bag or maybe even just a cheap poncho. Additionally, a way to prevent stuff getting wet is by packing items in large ziplocs before placing them within your backpack. Remember that you are on the go and it may not always be easy or possible to dry any items that get wet.

Need any other Camino packing and training tips?

Alright, there is likely more to be said and advice to be given for someone planning their Camino packing and training. More than likely, I will make some edits in the future. In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts, ask questions, etc. in the comments section. Remember, your questions or suggestions will likely benefit other readers! And if you want an Excel version of my Camino packing list (with a lot of the smaller items), leave me a comment and I will send to you.

Buen Camino!

Want to see what every day was like? Click on the day and read on! Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6 and Day 7

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Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Camino, Camino de Santiago, doing the Camino, gear list, how to train for camino, packing list camino, spain, what to wear camino

Tips for a Papal Audience in St. Peter’s Square

28 February 2018 by Raul 8 Comments

(Guest post by Chris Sanders)

Wow, we got front row tickets to a Papal audience in St. Peter’s Square and saw Pope Benedict the XVI up close in Vatican City! One of the more unique, interesting, and fulfilling experiences one can have in Rome is to attend a Papal general audience. There is something almost magical about the crowds of thousands, packed into St. Peter’s Square to see and hear the Pontiff – the leader of a billion Catholics worldwide. Even for non Catholic and non religious people, the experience can be interesting and unique at minimum… and its free of charge! One of the most unique things to do while visiting Rome.

Veterans of Papal events in Rome

My wife and I have been to no fewer than five Papal events, three of which were general audiences (the other two were the Beatification of Mother Teresa and an Easter Mass).

During general audiences in St. Peter’s, the Square is partitioned into several sections – each section is filled with rows of plastic chairs. Sections are filled on a first come first serve basis. Most of the time, despite arriving early, we get a seat somewhere in the middle of the Square, far away from the “action.”

Thankfully the Vatican has invested in really good video monitors and a world class sound system. Seriously, you can actually hear the Pope take a breath before he speaks – it is THAT good!

The best seats during a Papal audience!

However, during our most recent Papal audience, we (my wife and I along with our friends Raul, Beth Ann, and Bill) were treated to especially good seats, way up in the Pontiff’s “VIP section” (as I call it): the boxed section just to the right of the Pope’s canopy if you are facing the Basilica… It probably has a more official name.

Now that I think about it, maybe its called the “IP” section, because across from our section (and to the left of the Papal canopy) were seated various European royals (Belgian, to be more specific) and other dignitaries, many of whom were invited to approach and receive a blessing from the Pope after the audience.

I guess technically, our tickets to the Papal audience were in the “VIP” section as it were… Still, the IP section wasn’t so bad… 🙂

Seat from VIP section at Papal audience at The Vatican — View from our seats – no zoom!

Queen Fabiola and Queen Paola of Belgium at Papal Audience — Queens Fabiola (left) and Paola (center) of Belgium

Anyway, so there we were, in the “IP” section at St. Peter’s during a Papal audience in The Vatican. The experience was exhilarating to say the least…

From this vantage point (as one would expect) the sounds are clearer, the sights more vivid — and in addition to being only a few yards away from the Pontiff, one also gets to view the Square and see the massive crowds from his perspective… I mean, imagine if – on an otherwise routine Wednesday at 11 AM – a few hundred thousand people came to see and hear what you had to say, wow!

Getting closer to the Pope during the audience

The most exciting moment came at the end of the ceremony, when Pope Benedict got into his Pope Mobile… And on his way to tour the Square, the white open air Mercedes made a quick pass by our section. The Pope himself passed literally just out of arms length of us…

A few nuns who were positioned slightly in front of us actually made a connection with the Pontiff! And they were not shy about getting a close to the front as possible!

Pope Benedict XVI doing the rounds after the Papal Audience in St. Peter's Square

Each of the Papal events we have attended have been special, for different reasons. The day we were “IPs” was special in its own right as the vantage point was unparalleled. Also, this was the first time we saw Pope Benedict XVI… Our previous three events were with Pope John Paul II. Viva il Papa!

Tips for planning your visit in a Papal audience

If you are interested in attending a Papal audience in The Vatican, the below items should help you with your planning:

Papal general audiences are held each Wednesday at 11 in the morning. In the wintertime or on days with bad weather, the audience is held indoors (in the Basilica or in the Hall of Papal Audiences). In the summer months, the audience is held outdoors in St. Peter’s Square – very spacious!
Tickets to a Papal audience are free but you need to reserve them in advance. You then pick up the tickets at The Vatican on the day before the audience. There are multiple outlets but I suggest going right to the official source, the Prefecture of the Papal Household http://www.vatican.va/various/prefettura/en/biglietti_en.html
Remember, tickets to Papal audiences are TOTALLY FREE! If someone tries to sell you a ticket, don’t buy it!
If you want to sit in the “VIP” or “IP” sections (remember these are my terms, not The Vatican’s), work through your local parish church. Even then, I don’t think anything is guaranteed. In fact, we didn’t realize our tickets were “premium” until we picked them up the day before the audience.
Arrive at St. Peter’s Square as early as possible in order to get the best seats possible. Getting close to center aisle or any of the aisles maximizes the chances that you will see the Pope up close if he goes around in his Pope-mobile!
Be advised, you have to pass through a security checkpoint to enter St. Peter’s Square.
Hit the restroom beforehand. There aren’t many restrooms available within the Square…
Take a hat to protect your head from the sun. The sun actually can be quite intense in St. Peter’s Square.

Good luck! If you want additional information about getting tickets to a Papal audience, or, if you would like to share your experiences attending a Papal audience, let us know via a reply to this blog!

Other things to do while in Rome:

– St. Paul Outside the Walls: One of Rome’s Less Seen Basilicas

– A Food Tour in Rome

– Doing Rome with a Plan

– Ceilings of the Vatican and Rome

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Filed Under: Europe, Vatican City Tagged With: can you see pope, papal audience tickets, Rome, seeing the pope in rome, Vatican

In-and-Out: Munich, Bavaria’s Capital

15 December 2017 by Raul 2 Comments

Munich (or, München, in German) is a great city on many levels. Its location, the Bavarian cuisine, the amazing architecture, and the many things to see and do make it a perfect place to explore over a few days. However, my chances to spend time there seem contained to a day or so. My first time was in 1994 as I went from Frankfurt to Austria; the family I was traveling with had a relative there so we stopped somewhere on the outskirts of the city to have lunch and visit – a very short visit. Then in 1999, I went to Munich for a business trip that lasted just a few hours – not even an overnight and nowhere the near the city center. Eventually, in 2011, I finally got see the city center and stay overnight on a stopover as I returned home from a trip to Croatia. That time, I got to walk around Marienplatz at night and have dinner at a great local restaurant nearby but that was to be all.

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Place I had dinner at in 2011

Landing in Munich again!

Fast forward to 2017 and another visit to Munich appears on my radar but – yet again – it is not going to be a long one: another overnight but, this time, with the chance to see the city center in the daytime!

On the final approach on the flight over from Amsterdam, it was neat to see the beautiful Bavarian countryside…

Upon landing, it was time to get the rental vehicle and drop the stuff at the hotel before venturing into the heart of the city (the hotel was close to the airport). The drive into town was easy – GPS and Google Maps took care of that. It was neat to finally see the city in the daytime!

Approaching the city center

Marientplatz – the place to be

We approached Marienplatz by crossing through a former’s farmer market, the Victuals Market (Viktualienmarkt), now selling fruits, meats, and ready-to-eat food across a hundred or so stalls/kiosks/cafés. Though it was February, the place was teeming with people – very lively place.

The Victuals Market

We entered Marienplatz after passing by Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) by the side where the Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) is located.

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The Church of the Holy Ghost

Interior of the church

That places you seeing the Rathaus, or City Hall, from the side and at a little distance – it is so impressive to see!!

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The Rathaus upon entering Marienplatz

The Spielzeugmuseum – a toy museum – at one end of Marienplatz

The Rathaus (not rat house!), the key building in Marienplatz

Closeup of the Rathaus’ façade

Detail of a Rathaus’ entrance

Munich from atop the Rathaus

Whenever I have the chance, I go up! Climbing or riding up but I go up! At the Rathaus, you can ride up to the top to get great views of the city all around and to take a look down at Marienplatz itself. I highly recommend checking it out!

Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

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Looking down at Marienplatz from atop the Rathaus

Looking at the very top of the Rathaus from the viewing platform

View of the city from atop the Rathaus

From above, I want to explore all the corners of this great city: walk its streets, check out bars and restaurants, see its museums, visit its churches, etc. Maybe the fourth time will be the charm and I will get to spend a few days doing just that! Auf wiedersehen, München!

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Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bavaria, Bayern, germany, Marienplatz, Munchen, Munich, Rathaus, travel

How to Visit Montserrat – A Spectacular Site!

5 December 2017 by Raul 2 Comments

Spain is not short on amazing places to see. From the main cities to coastal towns, to secondary but highly beautiful or historical towns. Spain has it all and I have been fortunate to have seen a lot of it. I decided to visit Montserrat as we would be passing near it on our way to Barcelona. I am glad I did. Montserrat served as a reminder to me of how much I have left to discover of the amazing “madre patria” (mother country)!

Why visit Montserrat?

Montserrat is an easy day trip from Barcelona, is host to a Benedictine abbey (Santa Maria de Montserrat) and monastery that sit grandly at around 4,000 ft of altitude. Its name literally translates to “serrated mountain”. That is one appropriate name as it is a jagged-topped mountain that rises up from the Catalonian landscape. Montserrat is an amazing site for several reasons.

For the Catholic faithful, it is home to the Virgin of Montserrat (the “black virgin”). Many visit Montserrat as a pilgrimage of faith.

For the hiker or active traveler, Montserrat offers a neat place to trek up to enjoy the mountaintop views. I understand that it is not a hard hike.

And for the traveler, it is a great destination offering splendid views, great architecture, cultural perspective, and a thrill just to get up to it!

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View upon exiting the railway station

Some History on Montserrat (but not too much!)

The monastery atop Montserrat has been around since the 10th century and it is still a functioning monastery. It is absolutely mind boggling to me to think it has been there over a thousand years. I even read that it been the home to an important religious site since Roman times before Christ. St. Ignatius of Loyola came to this site to pray and contemplate. Eventually, St. Ignatius went on to found the Jesuit order in the Catholic Church (Pope Francis belongs to this order).

More recently, the monastery in Montserrat suffered closure during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s. And the killing of 22 of its monks. Communist combatants in the Spanish Civil War killed many religious all around the country. These same Communists destroyed many churches – and religious birth, marriage and death records stored within them. A real shame that humans could be so ignorant and disrespectful.

In any case, the basilica itself is not that old. Yet has suffered great damage during wars and fires over the centuries. The basilica has a museum with art work that includes the likes of Picasso, Dali, and El Greco. A statue of the black Virgin that sits above and behind the main altar of the basilica. The statue has its origins, supposedly, in the Holy Land. It dates from the early days of Christianity though others believe it was carved many centuries later (Middle Ages). All this is why I recommend anyone going to Barcelona to visit Montserrat!

Getting to Montserrat

The good news for anyone desiring to visit Montserrat is that it is easily accessible whether you have a car or you take a train from Barcelona.

If you are driving, head in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat. We came from Andorra via Lleida and it was easy to find though, at the very end, exactly how to get to our destination took a little more guesswork… If you are coming from Barcelona, well, it is just about 45 minutes away and not terribly difficult to get to.

Once there, the options for parking are either parking up at the monastery (parking is limited and it is not free so maybe not as ideal as it may sound), or parking by one of the two railway stations that I will talk about a little further down. Where you park is really based on how you want to go up. As I mentioned, you can drive up. You can also hike up if you are so inclined. I did not hike up (though I wished I could have) but I hear the round trip up and down the trail is about 20 km and the trail is relatively easy and fairly ‘stepped.’

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At Monistrol-Vila railway station’s parking area – notice the mural showing the ascent and the mountaintop!

Now if you don’t want to drive up or walk up, then you have two options: the cable car (or “Aeri”) or the inclined railway (“Cremallera“). They both are easy ways to go up but you need to decide before you get there as each is taken from a different point around the area. Both the cable car and railway have frequent departures which vary depending on the season you visit – schedules are posted online and at the stations.

If you take the train in to Montserrat from Barcelona, you will arrive at the lower station, Monistrol de Montserratu, where you can take the railway up. If you drive, you can opt to drive a little further up and park at the railway station Monistrol-Vila; there was open (uncovered) parking for buses and a parking deck for the rest of us. We opted to start at Monistrol-Vila as there was ample free parking, and the station was clean and new. If you do decide to use this station like we did, remember that on the way down, you need get off at the first stop of the railway!

At the railway station

We opted for the railway as we had heard that it allows more time to absorb the scenic views (the cable car only takes 5 mins whereas the railway takes between 15-20 mins) and it is pretty amazing to climb the slopes of the mountain via the train. The train is very comfortable and the views were indeed great; the perfect choice for us. The cost was around 10 euros for the round trip, which is really not too bad.

Note that there are packages you can get for entrance to the museum, audio guides, etc. at the train station if you are interested. We had limited time to spend at Montserrat so we, sadly, could not spend the time to take advantage of all this.

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Looking down towards Monistrol de Montserrat from the Cremallera

Heading up the Cremallera, a small green train can be seen on its way down

My Mom not realizing the down train was about to pass us!

The Cremallera railway station atop Montserrat to the right

It is worth noting that one can go even higher up the mountain via a second funicular (Funicular de Sant Joan) located behind the railway station atop Montserrat! It does not take long but, again, we were pressed for time so I had to skip that regretfully.

A second funicular can take you to the highest point in Montserrat – I am sure it’d be worth it!

My research showed there were a couple of places to stay on the mountain but I did not look into it. I do imagine it is a spectacular place to stay and watch the sun set and rise… If you visit Montserrat (or have visited it) and stayed at those places, drop a comment and share how it was!

Visiting the basilica and the Virgin of Montserrat

Once you get up, however you did so, everything atop Montserrat is in very close proximity and easy to navigate. There is some slope to walk up towards the basilica and monastery complex but it is a nice short walk. When you leave the railway station, you can go straight up some steps into the walkway up, or you can make a left and avoid the steps and walk up an incline. This last approach passes a little market shop and a small café in case you need to eat or drink something.

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Walking up towards the monastery and basilica (there are restrooms in this alley)

Along the way up, you will pass the museum and one of the places of lodging up there. After you pass these places, then you enter the area called the “atrium.” It is a large plaza with some arches that affords views down towards the railway station and beyond. At that point, the basilica/monastery complex is in front of you. But to see the facade of the basilica, you need to pass through some arches into a small inner courtyard.

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At the so-called “atrium” – a plaza with great views – up and down and across

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Turning around with the basilica/monastery behind me – beautiful peaks all around

When we entered that courtyard, we saw a bride and groom who were about to get married. Thankfully, the event did not close the visit to see the Virgin of Montserrat (also called the black Virgin due to the color of the paint applied to it over centuries).

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The entranceway towards the basilica facade – simple but beautiful

Inner courtyard of the Montserrat basilica – notice the wedding couple

Detail of the basilica’s facade

The interior of the basilica felt a tad heavy and dark to me but not so much to be drab. If there were no tourists, I would definitely feel like I could calm my soul and pray in peace inside the basilica.

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Heavy Gothic feel to the interior of the basilica

A rather darkish yet gold-heavy interior – primed for the wedding about to take place

The statue of the Virgin sits in a narrow passageway above the high altar. You can see it from anywhere in the church (you can see someone in a blue jacket above the altar in some of my pictures; how convenient for my photo-taking!) but to visit it face-to-face, you stand in line in the inner courtyard off to the right and you proceed along the side chapels of the basilica, up several stairs and, eventually a very narrow staircase to individually get to see, touch and pray to the Virgin. Photos are not allowed once you are by the statue (there is a guard…). I took a respectful photo at the bottom of the steps so you can visualize the space at least.

The statue of the Virgin with a faithful wearing a blue jacket

Left: Initial staircase up. Right: the final steps and the statue at the top

As throughout the rest of the trip around Spain and France, I felt blessed to be able to come to this important Catholic site following our visit to Lourdes atop an amazing mountain in Spain with my wonderful mother and sister!! Thanks for coming with me! (And my uncle too!)

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With my Mom and sister – lucky guy!

Pin this to your travel board – and visit Montserrat!

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Visit Montserrat – an easy day trip from Barcelona!

Like Spain? Check out these other posts about places to see!

San Sebastian in the northern Basque country with its great foods
The jewel cities of Andalucía in Spain’s south: Córdoba and Granada
The grand dame of Andalucía: Sevilla
Some of the best of Madrid: 6 cool things to do there!
The end of the Camino de Santiago: medieval Santiago de Compostela
Doing the Camino de Santiago, a great ancient pilgrimage (day 1 of 7)

Filed Under: Europe, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: cable car, Cremallera, monasterio España, montserrat spain how to get there, Montserrat Spain monastery, visit montserrat

20 Images of La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

29 November 2017 by Raul 4 Comments

La Sagrada Familia, the grandiose basilica (mostly) designed by Antoni Gaudi, has become the symbol of Barcelona, and that’s not a stretch by any means: both have been growing and evolving over the decades. And, for La Sagrada Familia, at least, that journey will end in the next decade (target: 2026) as it is expected to be finished by the end. Gaudi’s masterpiece needs no introduction, though perhaps some background info could not hurt. There is no justice I can do both to its story and to how it looks and feels in person. So this post is meant to deliver, as well as photos can, eye-candy on this masterpiece of architecture, construction, and faith…

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West side of the basilica (Passion façade side)

Backdrop on La Sagrada Familia

Gaudi was brought in to complete the design of the basilica early on in the project (a year into the project). He continued working on it until his death in 1926 (hence targeting 2026 as the year for its completion) but, at the time he died, the basilica was only a fifth to a quarter done. Initially, there had been opposition to it but certainly it has become iconic, almost legendary. Its construction has been slow because it was funded through donations, and the Spanish Civil War also disrupted the effort in the 1930s. To me, it is a marvel of imagination and creativity. It would not surprise me to hear someone say it is ‘too much.’ But despite its eclectic designs/features, it feels elegant, not overwhelming. If it were not for the tourists meandering and talking, it could be -more importantly- a place for contemplation or quiet prayer. I sure hope there are/will be times when it will be closed to tours/visits though I do not know how they really could control people going in to pray versus to admire (read, gawk) the building and snap photos endlessly… like I did!! #confession

The basilica’s design

Gaudi’s designs were lost in a fire though some of the designs were re-constructable from other artifacts available that captured what Gaudi was planning. However, that does not mean that what we see today is exactly Gaudi’s vision: other architects over the decades have left their imprint on the design as the work progresses and new techniques/technologies have become available. It is hard to imagine, for example, that Gaudi could have laid out the lighting design given how much illumination know-how and technology have changed since the first quarter of the 20th century… I am no architect, no designer, no artist but below is my layman’s recollection of the plan of the basilica and some opinions…

The spires (towers) of La Sagrada Familia

The general concept of the design includes an array of spires or towers: a high tower representing Jesus Christ and four secondary towers representing each of the evangelists (John, Mark, Matthew and Luke) and another for the Virgin Mary. The remaining spires will represent the twelve apostles.

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Two of the 18 spires of the basilica – Hosanna Excelsis

The three façades of La Sagrada Familia

The basilica has or will have three large façades: the Nativity, the Passion, and the Glory. This latter one is to be the most grandiose of the three and is currently under construction. Its completion will require the demolition of the building block that faces it across the street as it will have a large staircase leading up to it but, no worries, people knew these were the plans since early on, probably before current residents were born!

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Looking to the main façade under construction: Glory

The Nativity façade was the first one built and it was completed in Gaudi’s time so it is most connected to his vision. The façade struck me as very connected with nature, with animals and floral type of arrangements noticeable; the scene is both peaceful and elaborate. Of course, the Holy Family is at the center of it.

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Detail of the Nativity façade showing the Holy Family

Detail of the Nativity façade, stepping back a little. Angels can be seen around the Holy Family

Upper portion of the Nativity façade

Another angle of the Nativity façade

The Passion façade definitely conveys sadness and angst, as the Passion of Christ would instill: the figures are angular and emoting their feelings on stone in a sparsely decorated space – brilliant and moving, and a clear contrast to the Nativity façade.

The Passion façade

Detail of the upper part of the Passion façade – the words “Nazarean Rex” can be seen

Detail of the Passion façade – deep sorrow on that stone face!

Detail of the Passion façade – Jesus tied as he was lashed

Detail of the Passion façade – carrying the cross on the right, and the shroud on the left

Detail of the Passion façade

The basilica’s grand interior – behold!

The inside of the basilica cleverly plays on light. On the west side of the interior, with red and associated colors created by the stained glass on the side of the Passion façade. On the opposite side across the aisle, are the greens and blues that feel cooler and happier: the side of the Nativity façade. The columns seem to fly up to hold the roof of the sanctuary and feel like trees holding up a canopy. And, it takes effort to notice but the shape of the columns evolves as the column rises: a square base may morph to a circular cross-section after passing through an octagon shape, for example. To me, the highest ceiling is a visual contrast with its modern feel versus the traditional walls at the end of the apses/naves with their big stained glass windows and other more traditional motifs.

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Nativity side with its greens and blues

Columns remembering the evangelists Luke and Mark, 2 of the 4 main columns

Strong as a tree trunk!

Looking up reveals an impressively designed, symmetric and yet not overwhelming ceiling…

Looking up at the ceiling – amazing! Notice the contrast to the wall on the right

Detail of the main ceiling

Finally, the altar is simple in the extreme – a sharp contrast to the ceiling and side walls of the basilica. The space feels cavernous by the height of the ceiling, the long tree-like columns and the emptiness in the altar area. But that cavernous feeling is counter-balanced with the colors and light that is cleverly used in opposition (or, at least, I assume the opposition was planned for…) around the outer walls.

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The main altar – extreme simplicity is a sharp contrast to the rest of it all!

Nanoblock Sagrada Familia – I enjoyed putting one of these together!

How to visit La Sagrada Familia

There are several ways to visit and several things to see in La Sagrada Familia. From a basic unguided entry ticket at 15 euros (as of this writing), to an audio-guided visit for 22 euros, to going all the way to the top for 29 euros, there is a price point and scope of visit for everyone. Sadly, going up was not available the day I visited so I was deprived of the experience of going up and taking in the views from above. However, we did do a pre-purchased guided tour through a local tour agency located across the square from the basilica which secured us an entry time, a guide (in Spanish in our case since it was easier for my Mom), and avoiding any lines to enter the basilica. The tour included visiting the basement of the basilica which has several exhibits. One of the most interesting items is the exhibit which shows hanging chains which upside-down show the structure of the basilica as it elliptical or curvy inner structures are well modeled by gravity. I may not be explaining this well but it is a clever tool for the architect. In any case, the basement also shows photos of the basilica being built over the decades – all fascinating stuff. Dedicate time to this visit and soak it all in!

Looking up at the Passion façade

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Filed Under: Europe, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: architecture, barcelona, basilica, Catalunya, Catholic, church, España, façade, Gaudi, iglesia, La Sagrada Familia, spain

In Search of Andraka in Spain’s Beautiful Basque Country

20 November 2017 by Raul 3 Comments

One of the reasons for my recent trip to Spain, as I shared in an earlier post, was to see the ancestral lands of my Mom’s family in the Basque region of Spain (Euskal Herria in Basque). My Mom’s last name (Andraca, in Spanish) is the name of a home that existed a long time ago where the family originated near Bilbao, Spain in the province called Bizkaia (or Vizcaya or Biscay). We wanted to see the place but it was only one of many places we had in our roughly-sketched family tree (which also included the neighboring province of Guipuzkoa). So, since we were not going to just one place, we decided to take a full day and just drive around these two provinces and take in the landscape of Spain’s Basque country…

All the towns in our Basque country…

Our family tree shows a lot of ancestors coming from the provinces of Bizkaia and Guipuzkoa, two of the Basque region’s provinces. Many of their last names are the names of villages or towns spread about these provinces. And, when not, we know which towns they came from. Places like Bergara, Gorliz, Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Azpeitia, Azkoitia, and others feature prominently in our family history. We definitely would not be able to hit each and everyone one of these due to time limitations and would only stop at a few even if we passed by them. But it is not like we would have discovered unknown cousins (first, second or even fourth) – our ancestor who came from Spain to Cuba got to Cuba in 1800 so too far in the past for any real connection with living descendants of his own ancestors…

Zarautz – Beach town

We left San Sebastian, our base for a couple of days, and headed west following more or less the coast. We had no set plans of where we would stop along the way. One of the first places we passed caught our eye and we decided to see if we could find parking and get out and walk around some. This place was Zarautz, a beach town of about 20,000 15km (9 mi) west of San Sebastian, that felt like a very livable place, not just a beach town for visitors. (The town connects to San Sebastian and Bilbao by train so even if one is not driving there, one can get there on public transport.)

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The beach

West end of the beach

The beach was long (I read it is about 2.8 km long; the longest in that coastline) and we could certainly see how it would be an appealing tourist destination. The beach was not packed and it may be that it was likely already the end of the season (but finding street parking was impossible still!). We sat in the plaza above the underground parking deck and looked out at the beach and ocean. My Mom, uncle and I decided to walk down to get our feet wet by the waters of the Bay of Biscay as maybe our ancestors did somewhere up or down that coast many centuries ago…

Mom and uncle walking to the water!

16th century Palacio de Narros from the beach

Conveniently located to wash one’s feet after stepping on the beach

My sis and uncle enjoying the view

More Basque coastline

We both reluctantly and eagerly got back in the car. Zarautz was worth staying but we had a key objective for the day ahead… We drove from Zarautz past Getaria (another great-looking coastal town) and, somewhere around Zumaia, turned inland on the road. It was disappointing to leave the beautiful coast because, as you can see, it was beautiful.

Yet another great beach west of Zarautz by Getaria

Nice curvy road bordering hills that face the water

Basque coastline beauty!

A phenomenal Basque lunch

We kept driving and after a failed attempt to reach Lekeitio (there was some festival that weekend with all roads leading to it blocked of – very disappointing as it was high on our list), we went inland. And hunger was hitting… During a routine bathroom stop at a local bar in the town of Ereño (between Lekeitio and Bermeo but inland), my Mom came and told us the place had a restaurant and it had customers (my cardinal rule is to never go into an empty restaurant in an unknown town…). The place was cozy, on the ground level of a 2- or 3-story building (can’t recall). It was Restaurante Jatetxea Atxoste.

The place we had lunch at in Ereño

It was SUPERB. The thing I liked the most is the one I did not take a picture of: the fresh cod sauteed with spinach. It would be the single most delicious dish I had in the entire trip! But captured for posterity were the red beans and the rice pudding which were excellent.

Rice pudding dessert

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The red beans – I could just have ate them all!

I always prefer the small mom-and-pop places where, though service may not be stellar, the food typically is. Great find, Mom!!

Driving through history: Guernica

After lunch, on our way to Andraka, we made it a point to drive through the town of Guernica which suffered a massive air attack during Spain’s Civil War in 1937 by Nazi Germany, a bombing that lasted about 2 hours. Picasso captured the pain and horror of that moment in history in a famous painting named after the town. There is a mural in the town center matching the painting. We did not plan to get out of the car but I did snap a quick side photo of the mural…

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The mural

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Guernica by Pablo Picasso

The main event: Andraka

Andraka is not a town by my definition; not even a village, just some homes laying around (a few under construction) and a restaurant right by the road. But it has the typical European signs announcing the ‘town’ and letting you know when are leaving the ‘town.’ If there was an original home from over 200 years ago that could have been our ancestros’, we did not see it; and that really didn’t matter that much to us. After a quick walk around an old, abandoned house and snapping a couple of pix by signs that said “Andraka,” we got back in the car and continued on our drive, satisfied we had gotten to that area of Bizkaia where the last name Andraca originated for our family…

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How the area of Andraka looks

The old home taken over by vegetation

My uncle

Mom, sister and yours truly

A truly unique and fun experience to have shared with loved ones!

Drive the amazing Basque coast! Pin this to your travel board!

Filed Under: Europe, Great Drives, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: Andraka, Basque, Bay of Biscay, Bizkaia, España, Euskal Herria, Guipuzkoa, pais vasco, Samsung Galalxy S7, spain, Vizcaya, Zarautz

Biarritz: The Pearl of France’s Basque Country

13 November 2017 by Raul Leave a Comment

There are places that are semi-legendary in your mind. And when you visit them, they live up to that vision. And sometimes they don’t. Biarritz, France is not a place I knew a lot about but I did have an impression that it was a beach playground for the rich and famous in France’s Atlantic coast, lesser known to the world than its phenomenal Mediterranean coast. Biarritz’ location, in the southwestern corner of France abutting Spain (just 22 miles from the border!) facing the Bay of Biscay, seems ideal with warmer climate and perhaps not the throngs of partying tourists that the Mediterranean coasts can attract. It sits in the Basque region of France and is home to 20-30-odd thousand residents.

So, as we went from San Sebastian, Spain to Lourdes, France, we decided we would stop somewhere along the way as the road trip would be short so why not get a glimpse of some town along the way? As I looked at the map, I realized there were several neat towns along the French coast and inland (like Bayonne or Saint-Jean-de-Luz). As I talked to my Mom, she shared how she, when she was a girl, would read a novel with her best friend that partly took place in Biarritz and how they always daydreamed about Biarritz and seeing it some day. That settled it for me: Biarritz would be our stop on this lazy day of meandering on our way to Lourdes! Getting to Biarritz from San Sebastian was a piece of cake, like 45 minutes or so by car; it would have been maybe double that if you went by train. We went on the highway until Saint-Jean-de-Luz into which we drove but did not stop and then we tried to drive along the coast or as close as we could for most of the way.

We finally made it to Biarritz and we just followed the ever present blue “P” signs indicating where we could find parking. We did not just take the first one, we wanted to get to the heart of the town and then find parking as not everyone could walk longer distances. We found just such a perfect parking, underground of course, right by the waterfront by Saint-Eugenie Church – perfect!

Our visit was short but still worthwhile. A walk around the shopping district after a meandering drive into town was perfect.

Biarritz, France, Hotel, travel, photo, francia, euskadi

Saint-Eugenie Church

Biarritz’ place on the coast certainly offers beautiful vistas and spots to take in the views – or get on a boat and see the city from the water (which I wish we could have done!).

And then, we just picked a place on the beach (the ‘Grande Plage‘ – or great beach) to have lunch -not because it had the look of a great establishment (it did not, actually), but simply because of the view out towards the sea and the fact that we would be sitting in open air enjoying the beautiful weather that day.

Biarritz, France, casino, Grand Plage, playa, beach,, travel, photo, francia, euskadi

We ate at a cafe off to the right

The Grande Plage (big beach) of Biarritz

Biarritz most distinctive or massively impressive structure is the Hotel du Palais (of which, unfortunately, I took the picture split by a lighting pole…) built in the mid-1800s by the wife of Napoleon III. It sits grand and stands alone by the water. What a great place to live (if you were Napoleon III’s wife, I suppose).

Hotel du Palais – and the pole in the middle of the photo

So, I can’t share much about Biarritz (Wikipedia tells me it had about 25,000 residents back in 2009…), its history (became popular once royalty starting going there in the 19th century), or all the ins-and-outs of what to do and see as the scope of our visit was limited and I had not researched much ahead of time (very uncharacteristic of me but nice to go with serendipity sometimes…). But, if like my Mom, you have wondered what Biarritz looks like, I hope this post checks that off your list!

With my beautiful mom and sister – great travel companions!!

My sister has always loved going to the beach – glad I could take her to one in France!

The teenager in the Biarritz of her dreams! It was about my mom that day!!

Dreaming of Biarritz too? Pin this image of its main beach to your board!

Filed Under: Europe, France Tagged With: Basque, Bay of Biscay, beach, Biarritz, France, France beach, Francia, Miarritze, pais vasco, playa

Off-the-Beaten-Path Sweden: Industrial Eskilstuna

23 October 2017 by Raul 1 Comment

A year ago, I went to Sweden with the idea of spending a little more time in Stockholm than a one-day cruise ship stop allowed me years before. I really like Stockholm and its different neighborhoods, its surroundings (water!), and its old town. But, as part of this short trip, I also felt the urge to explore what lay beyond Stockholm – off the beaten path Sweden, if you will. What was the countryside like? What were its smaller towns like? How was nature inland (versus on the coast)?

So a plan was concocted for a day trip around the countryside, starting and ending in Stockholm while “circumdriving” (I just made that word up) Lake Mälaren. The only stop we had planned on doing that day would be on the way back to Stockholm: Uppsala, a charming college town not far from Stockholm. But we did realize we would have to stop somewhere around lunchtime to eat, and also we realized we may make short stops should we see something interesting. Both of those combined when we decided to jump off the highway as we drove west of Stockholm on the E-20 highway when we spotted what seemed a large town in the area: Eskilstuna.

I will be the first to admit that I had never heard of this town. Not surprisingly for a non-Swede, I suppose. Eskilstuna’s population is over 67,000 inhabitants as of 2015 (so larger by 2.5 times than Andorra’s capital which I recently visited!). The history of the town takes it back to medieval times when an English monk named Eskil made the existing tiny town his home; he was killed by pagan Vikings and he is now a saint buried in a monastery in the area. By now, it is a very industrial town (at some point it was known as “The City of Steel”) but it was not dirty at all, as one pictures towns with heavy industry (picture Pittsburgh in the 1980s, for example). We passed a Volvo plant of some sort in getting there and other factories / heavy industry sites.

Its main square was pretty and very spacious but, at the time, I did not see any “café” life.

Eskilstuna, Södermanland County, Sweden, Sverige

The main square of Eskilstuna: large, clean and empty

Looking out onto the square

However, we did find a great pizza shop (Redfellas) on the main square after exploring first the pedestrian shopping street in the heart of the town. Not a quaint or charming street, just a regular shopping street. I could see Redfellas being very lively at night given its spaciousness and decor; sadly, I was not staying intown overnight.

The old building where Redfellas is located

At Redfellas

The town’s church, Klosters Kyrka, dating from the 1920s, certainly looked a little different than the ones I am used to and that made it interesting but we skipped checking it out as we were wanting to keep moving on our day trip. The view towards it was graced by a statue celebrating the workers which made for a great foreground to the picture below.

Looking towards Klosters Kyrka (Church) with the town’s plaza behind me.

Eskilstuna may not be a tourist destination per se but it was an opportunity to see beyond the well-trodden places in Sweden and peek at a “non-descript” (pardon me, Eskilstunians!) town.

Pin to your travel board for off the beaten path places to explore!

Filed Under: Europe, Sweden, Travel Journal Tagged With: Eskilstuna, Suecia, Sverige, Sweden, travel

Making a Pilgrimage to Lourdes, France

17 October 2017 by Raul 4 Comments

A pilgrimage to Lourdes, France – a major Catholic pilgrimage destination – was a one-of-a-kind of experience for me. It was that for two very good reasons:

It is the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to young Bernadette, a country girl with no education but a lot of faith. (Watch the 1943 classic “The Song of Bernadette“!)
My mother and sister are both named after that site, where the “Virgin of Lourdes” appeared to Bernadette.

grotto, Lourdes, France, Virgin Mary, miracle, Catholic, apparition, faith, Marian pilgrimage to Lourdes — The lower and upper basilicas from the Information Center

I suspect both my mom and sister have always wondered if they would ever go to that town in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. Wouldn’t you want to go to the town where your name came from or is related to? In their case, maybe more than just for the curiosity of being namesakes with the town but, also, on account of what happened there in the mid 19th century.

The apparition in the grotto of Lourdes

While the apparition happened multiple times and the local clergy had initially been skeptical, over time they became convinced of the validity of what Bernadette shared. I will leave to other sources to explain the whole story. But, the Virgin Mary appeared to Bernadette on a grotto near the river on a few occasions and delivered messages. Out of these events, water sprung from the site. The waters of Lourdes are, to believers, holy waters.

Eventually, the site became developed with a church, evolving over the decades to the place it is today. People from all over the world come to this special site seeking healing or just a spiritual encounter. Many drink the holy waters from the spring. Some bottle it to take home (there are fountains at a few locations – they are easy to find). Some even immerse themselves in special pools set up near the grotto. My Mom, sister and I did it (more on this further down this post).

grotto, Lourdes, France, Virgin Mary, miracle, Catholic, apparition, faith, Marian pilgrimage, holy waters — Fountains where bottles can be filled

Getting to Lourdes

One can fly close to Lourdes, France but mainly from Paris (if you are on a charter group, you can fly in pretty close to Lourdes, I understand). Driving to Lourdes from cities like Bordeaux, France, or Bilbao or San Sebastian, Spain is not that hard a road trip (a little over two hours from San Sebastian, longer from the others). Barcelona would be more of a haul but doable in a long one-day drive. We planned our trip so we would coming from San Sebastian via Biarritz and Bayonne.

When we arrived in Lourdes, I was expecting the streets to be super narrow and crowded. And me driving this larger vehicle… The outskirts of the town were easy enough. But as we moved closer to the “epicenter” of the pilgrimage area, the town was getting “older” and, therefore, you could tell it was about to become tight. And me with the big car…

Fortunately, we entered the center of the town quite near to our hotel (unplanned!). Thanks to the GPS, I knew I was near the hotel, the Grand Hotel Gallia & Londres when, all of a sudden, I saw a parking sign for it, not where the GPS was indicating I needed to go. Miraculously (pardon the pun), I caught a passing glimpse of the sign before I would have hit the heart of the crowded part of town!

grotto, Lourdes, France, Virgin Mary, miracle, Catholic, apparition, faith, Marian pilgrimage — The back of our hotel

Lodging in Lourdes

Well, there are PLENTY of places to stay in Lourdes. You will not be short on options. My strategy was to be very close to the sites we were going to visit as I did not want to have to deal with moving the car, finding parking spots, etc. and I wanted to be able to get to and from the hotel quickly for my travel partners’ benefit. There are a LOT of pedestrians so driving is actually a tad stressful. People are distracted by all the shops, large groups move with a ‘force of presence’ of their own, and they are all excitedly talking with each other.

So, I kept my driving in Lourdes to driving in, and driving out. Plus, again, I wanted to be really close to the Sanctuary of Lourdes, where most of the religious activities of interest take place. That would make it easier to go back and forth between the hotel and the Sanctuary should someone want a break between activities, or the like. That was a great approach for my little group (consisting of my Mom, her brother, my sister and I – two pairs of siblings; my sister thought it was cute).

Anyway, back to lodging… As I said the hotel was practically as close as you could get to the Sanctuary. The hotel was in the old style of a grand hotel in the inside (architecture and decor). It was nice enough to be sure but, unfortunately, the air conditioning was not working on our floor. Hard to tell with French hotels whether they are just being stingy by saving on the power bill or whether it was true.

Certainly, at night the air cooled enough to be comfortable in the room so I could see them thinking “why turn the air conditioning on, spoiled tourists?”. And how would the guest know it was not “broken” week in and week out anyway? Ah… France…

But, let me tell you, the noise from the street did not subside until the very wee hours of the morning – not the faithful partying, I am sure. And I wear ear plugs. So that made the hotel not perfect since the night’s sleep was not as good. But other than that, it did the job nicely enough and the staff was friendly.

Starting our pilgrimage to Lourdes at the Sanctuary

We had dinner before heading in the early evening to the Sanctuary, the site with the grotto and several churches/basilicas, almost across the street from the hotel. We knew there would be a torchlight procession at 9PM where the Holy Rosary is recited. Sadly, we did not quite know the ‘mechanics’ of it. So, we sat on a bench to wait. What we missed was that we were supposed to walk towards the grotto and join the procession line.

Nevertheless, we witnessed the procession which brought a statue of the Virgin to the front steps of the Rosary Basilica (the lower one; the upper one that one sees more evidently is the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, or the Upper Basilica). In the meantime, we did walk to the grotto for our first visit to the spot where the apparition took place. The line was very short and it was always moving. So, it did not take long before we got to visit and say our prayers and intentions…

The next day, we had found out at the information center (located by one of the entrances to the complex) that there would be a Spanish Mass at 11 AM down the Esplanade at St. Joseph’s Chapel. After attending that Mass we went into the underground Basilica of St. Pius X, a massive modern space completed in 1958 (it can hold 25,000 folk!). I am not sure it is the type of church I feel most spiritual in but I suppose there is a need for it in this site?

The piscines for immersion in Lourdes’ holy waters

We finished our exploring by visiting the Rosary Basilica and the Upper Basilica. After, we went to the baths (or piscines) where one can immerse him- or herself in the holy spring waters. First, one waits in an outdoor area with plenty of seats. Eventually, one gets called in to a vestibule awaiting the assignment of to one of the pools. From the vestibule, one gets called in to a smaller room behind a set of curtains. Once in the smaller room, one will undress and be wrapped as preparation to walking into the pool.

The water was absolutely frigid so the miracle may be that I was able to walk out of the pool and that my legs regained normal body temperature!

All joking aside, the piscines were one of the most moving experience of our pilgrimage to Lourdes. Certainly, we are very grateful to the kind and helpful volunteers who give of themselves to help pilgrims.

An acknowledgment of God’s presence in our lives

Witnessing so many people wearing their faith ‘on their sleeve’ in their own pilgrimage to Lourdes was powerful. Actually, our pilgrimage to Lourdes was not just due to curiosity, or even strictly to see a place where an important event in our faith took place, though that certainly contributed to wanting to go. Our very personal trip was a real pilgrimage of thanksgiving and prayer for continued health in my family after a year-and-a-half of dealing with cancer and having dealt with an Alzheimer’s sufferer’s last years on this Earth with us… The grotto and the holy waters of Lourdes carry a very special meaning for us, even more now that we have been so blessed to visit this place…

For official information on schedules, events, maps, and other helpful information to plan your pilgrimage to Lourdes, please check out the Sanctuary’s website: https://www.lourdes-france.org/en

P.S. (Dec. 2019) – Part of the reason for the pilgrimage, though I did not share it when I published the post initially, was for my sister, Luly, who was battling stage 4 breast cancer at the time. She lost her battle earlier this year after three years of a good fight, full of spirit and faith; putting up with endless needles and treatments so she could be there for her young adult children. Please, please be proactive in checking yourselves for early signs of this terrible disease be it with self-detection, colonoscopies or any other way. You can read more about my beautiful sister and our opportunities to travel and laugh together in this memorial blog post I shared earlier in 2019. Peace.

Pin to your travel board if you are planning a pilgrimage to Lourdes!!