Serbia - ilivetotravel's travel log

Serbia’s Novi Sad and Its Petrovaradin Fortress

13 June 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

As part of my short visit to Serbia, I wanted to check out the town of Novi Sad, not far from Belgrade. I combined it with exploring Fruska Gora and its vicinity. I went in a small guided tour which, unfortunately, mainly gave us free time in Novi Sad; i.e., not much in terms of a guided tour there. But it did spend time at the Petrovaradin Fortress and covered it pretty well.

I have to admit not knowing much about Novi Sad before planning my trip and had never heard about the fortress at all. But that’s why I travel: to learn of the things that have not crossed my path before and then to get to see them in person! A lot of the learning happens while researching potential destinations and then when the planning begins: studying the destination to allocate my time there to those things that catch my eye the most, be it a high point (in Lübeck, Germany), a unique sight (the DMZ in Korea), a historic building (the monstrous Parliament in Bucharest), or just food (in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood)!

Petrovaradin Fortress

The Petrovaradin Fortress sits high along the banks of the Danube River facing the center of Novi Sad. Its unique vantage point provides great views of the river, the bridges crossing it, the main part of the city, and the surroundings of the fort itself. The site seems to have hosted human settlement and early fortifications from before the times when Romans established themselves there. Petrovaradin was a key battleground in the Hapsburg Empire (Austria) pushing back the Ottoman Empire one final time away from being a threat to Central Europe. Its fortress’ buildings and walls have been built, maintained, enhanced, etc. over the centuries.

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

Entrance to the fort

Walking along the uppermost walls facing the Danube

One can explore the fortress and its massive walls by walking around

A curiosity of the fortress is the clock tower. It was built with the hour hand being longer than the minute hand, contrary to most clocks that are not digital 🙂

Clock tower; it was around 12:45PM

Supposedly Petrovaradin has miles of anti-mine tunnels underneath but we did not get to see them; perhaps they are in disrepair and not safe? Petrovaradin was more than just a fortress. It was a fortified area with exterior walls protecting an area with many buildings. In any case, the site was impressive to me for two main reasons: the scale of the fortifications that one can see and the great location up high so one can soak in Novi Sad and the Danube River.

View towards the city center of Novi Sad

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Petrovaradin Fortress, Петроварадинска тврђава, Petrovaradinska tvrđava

Area right below the viewing area is part of the fortified area

Modern road crossing the “moat” and going through massive walls

Fortifications facing the Danube River

Novi Sad’s city center

Novi Sad is Serbia’s second largest city with about a quarter million inhabitants – nice size: not too big, not too small! It resides in the Vojvodina autonomous province and serves as its capital. The city actually does not pre-date the Petrovaradin Fortress but the other way around. As cities go in this part of the world, it is ONLY slightly over 300 years old. A baby by European standards but ancient by U.S. standards!!

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Bishop’s Palace from 1901 – interesting mix of styles

St. George’s Orthodox Cathedral

Novi Sad suffered a lot of damage in shelling that took place in the mid 19-century. The main square and neighboring streets, though, contain many charming buildings with architecture that I associate with 19th century Central Europe. I wish I had had more time to walk further out than I did.

The Name of Mary Catholic Church

Other angle on the church and nearby buildings on the square

Roof of the Church of the Holy Name of Mary

While there are beautiful buildings from back when, one can also spot some post-WW II modern buildings here and there in the city center, with more of them to be found as one moves out, I am sure.

Great contrast of old and new

Old and new again but the new is less so than the prior photo…

As I ventured outwards from the main square, I spotted what I am guessing is the bar/party street of the city center. But, it was around lunchtime so no parties going on!

Party street!

I enjoyed strolling down the pedestrian streets filled with shops and cafés, while looking at the neat buildings all around. While this was just a short visit to get a mental image of Novi Sad, it looks like a relaxed town to spend time at. Perhaps I will get to visit it again some day!

The Hotel Vojvodina in the main square

A building near the main square

City Hall on the left built in 1894

Check out what cool places to see in Belgrade!

Fruska Gora: An Easy and Rewarding Day Trip from Belgrade

3 June 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

The Fruska Gora (Fruška Gora, Фрушка гора) mountain gives the name to the national park in Serbia around which many monasteries, charming towns, and vineyards can be found, just an hour or less away from Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, and much closer to Serbia’s second town, Novi Sad. The Fruska Gora National Park runs east to west, almost or barely spilling into neighboring Croatia. While we drove through parts of it, we did not explore it but, instead, checked out some of the places right outside its borders.

Driving in the area, on my way to Novi Sad from Belgrade (and now, while looking at my photos) makes me wish I could have spent a week just exploring every corner of this area in north Serbia bordering eastern Croatia and southern Hungary. Such natural beauty, such complicated history, and so easy to explore!

On my recent trip to Serbia, I was based in Belgrade where I enjoyed sightseeing. I have learned that in many Central and Eastern European countries, the country’s second largest city tends to be more charming and relaxed than the capital cities (Poland/Krakow, Bulgaria/Plovdiv, Romania/Brasov, etc.) so I booked a day trip to Novi Sad. However, the one I decided upon would show me a glimpse of the area in and around the Fruška Gora National Park which I thought would add to my exploring by seeing something beyond two cities.

It was a good decision. First off, we visited the Krusedol Monastery, and then we visited the colorful town of Sremski Karlovci where -bonus- I got to sample the local Bermet wine! Win, win, and triple win!

Krusedol (Krušedol) Monastery

Serbia is known for the monasteries that grace its land. Many were built in the Middle Ages and have seen the sweeps of history cross this country placed in a unique geographical crossroads (some, in fact, did not survive those “sweeps”). From what I have read, the monasteries are quite diverse in their design and location (cliff face, valleys, etc.). This page in the Serbia.com website shows a few images that convey this diversity. In our visit, we stopped at what I would assume is a more conventional monastery near the Fruska Gora National Park: Krusedol Monastery. (Other day trips from Belgrade are available to explore other monasteries too.)

Krusedol was built between 1509-1514 and is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. It peaked at 90 monks in the late 17th century and has been damaged and ransacked across the centuries so many treasures, relics, etc. from the older times are gone. Later reconstructions of the church changed its initial architecture some, creating a blended style.

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Church and inner courtyard

The monastery first greets you with a large red gate in the shape of a church and red walls. To the left you can notice a cemetery on an uphill and you can perhaps see a family picnicking on its grounds with a cake and other food items to remember a lost one.

The main gate

Door of the main gate

Perimeter wall by the main gate, notice the cemetery on top of the hill

As you enter the gate a treed field greets you as you make your way to the main compound. You can see some quarters and stables straight ahead as you walk, and then you make a turn towards the church and main compound.

The area between the main gate and the monastery’s compound

Approaching the main compound. Note the old well on the left.

Inside the church, there are icons dating back to the 17th century though the frescoes, I understand, may be more recent or recently touched up. It is an understated place of worship, meaning it is not grandiose but still inspiring.

Entrance to the church

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Remnants of the fresco above the door (no photos allowed inside)

I recommend a visit to either this or other monasteries to get a sense of the important role these places had for centuries, much as they did in other places (see my visit to Moldova‘s monasteries here).

Sremski Karlovci

Near Novi Sad sits the small town of Sremski Karlovci, a charming and historically important town of about 9,000 in Serbia’s northern Vojvodina province. The town is right outside the Fruska Gora National Park along the shores of the Danube River. The town makes for a convenient stop when going to or coming back from visiting Novi Sad. Combined with the monastery visit, it is a great day trip from Belgrade though I would personally rather spend a few days exploring the Vojvodina province which offers a lot more. It was a weekend day when I visited and people were out and about. Though there was a little rain, it still felt that the place was alive (vs. some other towns I have visited that seem completely devoid of people on a weekend day!).

The town, as many places in this part of Europe, went back and forth between different rulers. Some of the most important ones were Hapsburg Austria and the Ottoman Empire. Sremski Karlovci served as the meeting point when an important peace treaty was agreed to by both sides at the end of the 17th century. The town, in general, served as an important center of Serbia’s political, cultural, and spiritual life during the Austrian rule. The town boasts Serbia’s first secondary school and its first seminary. The secondary school or “gymnasium” is really colorful – architectural eye-candy.

Karlovci Gymnasium, Sremski Karlovci high school, Serbian architecture

Karlovci Gymnasium (high school)

Other cool buildings include the Patriarchate (where the Serbian Orthodox Church leader -or Patriarch- used to reside, built at the end of the 19th century), the City Hall (built around 1810), and random buildings in various states of restoration / health!

Patriarchate Court

City Hall

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Notice the roof lines, especially on the rightmost structure!

I found it really cool that the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity in the town’s center sit next to each other. I like the symbolism…

St, Nicholas, St. Nikolaj, Serbian Orthodox Church, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

St. Nicholas Serbian Orthodox Church

Interior of St. Nicholas Church during a service

Holy Trinity Church, Catholic Church in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

The Four Lions fountain sits in front of the Catholic Church and, allegedly, if you drink its waters, you will come back to town and get married. I didn’t test the premise…

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

The Four Lions fountain

Many other beautiful buildings border the center of town (not quite a “square”) and they hold important spots in Serbian history. It is a nice town to walk around and enjoy the architecture, the charm, and the happenstance of small town life.

A dog’s rough life by the fountain!

Fruska Gora’s Bermet wine

After some of that wandering, a stop at a local winery is a good idea. The one we visited did not take walk-ins so be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. The winery itself was in a cool (temperature and ambience!) setting and had some nice old artifacts.

Bermet wine, Sremski Karlovci winery, Serbian wine, dessert wine from Serbia

Tunnels where the wine is stored

Public area at the winery

We sampled the local specialty wine of Bermet, supposed to be the favorite dessert wine of European courts. It originates from the Fruska Gora region of the Vojvodina and I not only sampled, but took a bottle with me to share with my family when I met up with them the next day in Prague!

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Nice stuff!

It was superb! Živeli !

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Belgrade day trip, Bermet wine, Fruska Gora, Krusedol Monastery, Novi Sad, Serbian dessert wine, Serbian monastery, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

9 Cool Places to See in Belgrade, Serbia

27 May 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

Serbia is in a unique spot in what seems to be where Central and Eastern Europe meet. It very likely is not in the top 10 target destinations for someone from North America but, of course, that means nothing to me: I had in on my list of places to see (it is a very long list!). Being surrounded by many countries I have visited added to the curiosity since none of those countries were alike. I wanted to see if Serbia was akin to any of the others I had seen. I learned it was an interesting place rich with history and cool places to see.

Initially, this trip to Europe was anchored on Prague, Vienna and Budapest – destinations my cousin had been targeting – but I thought it was the perfect trip into which to incorporate a visit to Serbia. I flew in from the U.S. via Charles de Gaulle in Paris and, when I left, I flew from Belgrade to Prague to meet up with my cousin and the others on the trip.

Impressions of Serbia’s Capital: Belgrade

Of course, the trip began in Belgrade, its capital city. I did not know what to expect. Was it more like its Central European neighbors’ capital cities or more like its Eastern European neighbors’ capital cities? Well, I could not quite peg to either and that was actually kind of cool. Its unique placement at the confluence of two large rivers (the Danube being one and the Sava being the other), its strategic location over centuries of fighting back and forth between Ottomans and Europeans, and its more gradual transition out of a Communist (though milder than other Eastern European countries) past lent it a very different feel than any of the other cities in the region.

Cool Places to See in Belgrade

Belgrade is a city with plenty of places to check out. They are not all concentrated in one core part so a good plan or a guided tour (see next section) is best. I explored many of these through the guided tour but also by exploring on my own before and after the tour. I enjoyed the mix of sites that I got to explore, some for the history, some for the views, and some to just stroll through and relax! Here is my list of cool places to see in Belgrade.

1 – Tašmajdan Park and St. Mark’s Orthodox Church

Tašmajdan is a quiet city park near by the Metropol Palace Hotel and Parliament, with great paths for walking or jogging. It also hosts special events; there were fireworks there one of the nights I was in town.
At one end of it (towards Parliament) is the beautiful church of St. Mark‘s which is nicely illuminated at night. It was only built in the mid-20th century but that does not take away from its beauty. The prior church built on that side was destroyed during World War I.
Looking at St. Mark’s from the park

Interior of St. Mark

Main avenue by the park (Bulevar kralja Aleksandra)

Memorial at the park for children who died in 1999 NATO bombings of the city

2 – Tito Mausoleum

Josip Broz Tito was the leader of Communist Yugoslavia for most of its existence. But he was also a World War II hero to the country.
He also led the Non-Aligned Movement that sought to create a sphere separate from U.S. and Soviet leadership though, in the end, it is hard to believe its full neutrality when Soviet puppets like Cuba were part of it…
In any case, parts of the site are undergoing renovations but the mausoleum itself containing his tomb (and his wife’s who lived an extra 33 years mostly under something akin to house arrest) is open. It is also known as the House of Flowers.
It so happened that it was the anniversary of Tito’s death when I visited so every visitor was handed lapel pins with his image.
The site is not in the heart of the city but I’d say it is worth the effort if you like history or are curious about the Cold War that now seems something so distant to many…
Tito’s tomb

3 – Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade sits by the intersection of the Sava and Danube rivers. That intersection is best appreciated from a park at Belgrade Fortress.
Belgrade Fortress has a long history and its construction / expansion happened under different “regimes” over the centuries. It is an interesting place to explore but make sure someone explains that history so you can better appreciate the site.
Suffice it to say that the site’s origins go back to when the settlement was that of a Celtic tribe around 300 B.C. and later became a Roman one. It developed over time into the larger fortress evidenced today at the site.
But not without many instances of being destroyed and rebuilt. One such installment happened in the 18th century when Austria returned the area to the Ottoman Empire but had to destroy the fortifications as part of the terms agreed to…
Kalemegdan Park abuts the fortress and it is a place to enjoy a break from all the exploring and watch life go by.
One of the main gates to the fortress

The walls of the fortress show different construction periods

View of the intersection of the Danube River (top right) with the Sava River

4 – Avala Tower

Outside the city, the Avala Tower (over 200m tall) offers great views of the region around Belgrade and the city itself. It is worth trekking out there and paying to go up for the views.
The original tower was lost to NATO bombings in 1999 so the tower now on the site is only around 10 years old.
The tower is not really inclined!

My only photo of the view has me as an accessory…

5 – Monument to the Unknown Hero

The monument is located really close to the Avala Tower making the extra distance to go see one be even more worth it.
It was built before World War II to commemorate an unknown World War I soldier tomb found there.
The structure atop a steep flight of stairs is quite impressive. It is decorated with massive statues of women in local attire representing the various areas of the former Yugoslavia. The plaza around it is quite pleasant and a nice spot to rest.
Nice path leads to the monument atop the staircase

Two of the eight statues atop the monument

Great, placid vistas of the countryside

6 – Strolling through the streets of Belgrade

Belgrade is not enjoying the money brought in by big tourism as other cities like Prague may be. While the limited investment is visible, it lends great charm to the city as it does not feel amusement-park like. It feels like a regular city, with character and history both of which afford the attentive eye good opportunities for cool photos!
The Dorćol district right by the Danube is a cool one to walk around. Though damaged during Allied bombing in World War II, you can appreciate how Belgrade must have felt like back in the day. It is interesting to see a rare mosque from around the 17th century almost around the corner from the Jewish Historical Museum.
The area known as Skadarlija is supposed to be fun and bohemian district of Belgrade. I did not spend time there but heard many good things about it.
Charming old tram

Beautiful building!

Street art is not only a Belgrade thing but I liked this one

Another great piece of architecture near Belgrade Fortress

7 – The small town of Zemun

Now a “suburb” of greater Belgrade (New Belgrade), it used to be its own town dating back to Roman times (as does part of Old Belgrade).
Its Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower) is a short climb but being located atop a hill, it offers nice views towards Old Belgrade. Seemingly its grounds are also popular among couples getting married for photos of the big day! The tower was built at the end of the 19th century and it is well worth heading there.
Coming down to the main square, we stopped a corner bakery where I was introduced to a delicious Serbian cheese-filled pastry called burek. Spectacular!
The Gardoš Tower

The view from up high with yours truly

Burek!

8 – Church of St. Sava

Unfortunately, this important and large Serbian Orthodox Church, was not open during my visit. Construction started in the 1930s and it is still being finished though most of it seems to nbe done.
An interesting factoid is that its main dome was built on the grounded and lifted into position in 1989.
Though the main part of the church is not open, the crypt was. It was quite beautiful.
Exterior

Nicely illuminated crypt!

9 – The Nikola Tesla Museum and the nearby Kultura Bar

As an electrical engineer (though I may not remember most of what I learned in those university years past!), visiting the birth city of Nikola Tesla presented the opportunity to explore the local museum dedicated to him. Now, Mr. Tesla moved early on to the United States but still it is his birth city so a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum was top on my list. The museum is a little different than most museums in that you can only enter it on the hour and the group is capped as the experience is partially guided. It starts with a 15-minute movie followed by exploring the concepts Tesla worked with – hands-on. One has to look in advance to see for a given time slot what language is the guided tour offered in so one doesn’t show up -as I did- at a time in a language one doesn’t understand…

Unfortunately, my first attempt was at the correct language for English but I didn’t get to make it in as the group was maxed out. Luckily for me, I had read in advance of cool local bars and one of the top ones was one block away so I went over to have a drink and, I thought, kill 45 minutes so I could get into the next group (which was in English). Well, that was a great plan except the bar, Kultura Bar, was so quaint and the bar staff so friendly that I just stayed on 2-3 hours and missed the opportunity to visit the museum. Now that is going with the flow! Their tequila-based Old Fashioned was pretty darn good!

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Interior of the Kultura Bar

How best to explore Belgrade: small group guided tour

Since my time in Serbia was very limited, I signed up for a small group Belgrade tour to maximize the number of sights I could visit without worrying about how to get to places or getting distracted (see the prior section on the failed Nikola Tesla museum visit!). The smaller group is more manageable for the tour guide as the vehicle can be smaller and he can get to talk with everyone standing just right around him. It also moves faster as there is less chance of people holding the group up.

This was a great idea as the sites to visit were not necessarily within easy walking distance from each other. We did have a part of the tour that allowed us to walk around through the heart of the city which was nice as we got to mix being driven places with enough time out and about. The tour allowed me to get a good sense of the city and where things were for future reference.

You can probably find a number of operators out there without me talking about who I used. I found the guide for this tour very ready to help us learn about Belgrade and Serbia and proud of his town. Vert cool

My next day in Serbia was spent going outside of Belgrade to explore Serbia’s second city, the jewel town of Novi Sad. More on that in an upcoming post! In the meantime, pin this image to your travel board!