Toledo’s Cathedral – One of the Most Impressive

5 May 2024 by Leave a Comment

The town of Toledo, in the heart of Spain, is loaded with history, faith and meaning for Spain. This town, perched high and surrounded on three sides by the river Tagus, served as capital of Spain – last time until the second half of the 16th century. Toledo’s Cathedral is its most impressive, but far from the only, great attribute. And definitely one of the most beautiful I have ever seen (and I have visited many!).

A unique setting is one of Toledo’s assets

Its position up high by the river can be best appreciated across the river instead of within the town itself. If you come from the train station, you will -all of a sudden- see the Alcazar fortress prominently on display, and a couple of bridges across the river. One of these bridges is made of stonework and is very impressive. Once you cross, you can either climb up steps and ramps to arrive at the main square or take the electric stairs that seem to be endless. If you are able to, I recommend the walk even if you go slowly so you can appreciate more the setting/

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toledo, espana, spain, mountaintop town, catedral de toledo, toledo cathedral, el greco in toledo
Toledo Spain

A crossroads of cultures and history

It is famous for so many things. It blended Christian, Jewish and Moorish cultures and their unique monotheistic faiths. One can see this manifested most strongly in the architectural details all over the old town. The old town is a maze of alleys, some pedestrian, some not, and it is easy to get lost but, thankfully, the town is small and contained by city walls for the most part.

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El Greco rules

Among the many valuable cultural treasures are many paintings of El Greco (many of them in the Cathedral). But one of his most famous paintings, the Entierro del Conde de Ordaz (the Burial of the Count of Orgaz) from 1586 resides in a small church called the Church of Santo Tomé. Friends of my family had a copy of the painting in their home during my childhood and I spent much time observing the painting, fascinated by the scene it portrays. So getting to see the real – and much larger – painting is a real treat.

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El Greco’s paintings usually portray people with elongated faces which I feel adds more drama to any scene he is painting. The museum at the Cathedral has a few more beautiful works of El Greco!

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And now to Toledo’s Cathedral

I have traveled a lot as you can tell from the blog and have seen many churches of many types and sizes. So it means something when I say this is in the top 5, if not top 3, in terms of how amazing it is in every which way. Upon first sighting the structure, it is not as striking as other cathedrals or large churches I have seen…

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But that is the only shortfall in my book for Toledo’s 13th century Gothic cathedral!

The choir of Toledo’s cathedral

Its choir is something to admire, not just for pure woodwork, but for all the history that the woodwork depicts.

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Side chapels and ceilings are works of art of their own!

Don’t miss checking out the altars and side chapels. And do not forget to look up. The artwork is amazing in every corner of Toledo’s cathedral.

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spain, catedral de toledo, toledo cathedral, catholic cathedral choir, tiled vault ceiling, painted ceiling, religious mural
spain, catedral de toledo, toledo cathedral, catholic cathedral choir, tiled vault ceiling, painted ceiling, religious mural

The most spectacular altar

The cathedral’s altar is a jewel onto itself. A large, massive jewel! It is a wonder of man-made craft inspired by faith. Certainly, one is inspired to connect with God when standing, sitting or kneeling in front of it, which is the idea in the end…

The retable (or the main golden piece shown in the photo) at its center rises five stories high. The paintwork was done by many famous painters, architects and sculptios of the time and area.

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Behind the altar is more amazing artwork!

It would be so hard to not be moved as a Christian when walking around Toledo’s cathedral. In every corner there is major artwork! The backside of the altar is no exception.

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The status above the altar magnified on the right

I am no art expert. I believe this is Baroque style: very elaborated! It certainly stands in contrast to the rest of the Cathedral’s Gothic style. I was very surprised when I saw it.

And then I looked up and saw the painted ceiling as it rose to a painted dome. Who thought of all this and how hard was it to design it and paint it?!

I learned later this altar is called “El Transparent” as it focuses light from the “skylight” above on the tabernacle at certain times of the day.

Until next time, Toledo!

A very inspiring and awe-inducing visit, even if not my first time there. 30 years between visits does take its toll in my memory bank from pre-smartphone days (and the ease of photographing freely). I am very fortunate to have been able to return and re-encounter Toledo and its cathedral.

toledo, espana, spain, mountaintop town, catedral de toledo, toledo cathedral, el greco in toledo
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Camino Packing and Training Tips

2 April 2018 by 6 Comments

The Camino de Santiago has become a very popular destination/experience for many around the world, especially after the movie “The Way” hit the movies screens and as more people do it.  People of all ages and nationalities gravitate to this, as did I and a group I traveled with last summer to hike the Camino.  So far, I have written about each of our 7 days in a series of posts (start here with Day 1). But I’d thought I’d devote some time to sharing Camino packing and training tips.

While this is not an exhaustive treatise on each of the topics, it should give you a good high-level understanding on training.  I hope it also helps you develop a good packing list with what to wear and items you will need.  Please feel free to ask questions or suggest your own tips via the comments section below.

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How fast can you do the Camino de Santiago

How strenuous the day is on the Camino de Santiago depends on how much ground you plan to cover on a given day.  If you are young (read: in your 20s or early 30s), you likely think you can attack the Camino and do over 20 miles a day, perhaps 30.  That’s crazy talk.  Yes, you physically may be able to but a couple of things:

1.  After a couple of days of pushing this way, your body will let you know how crazy that was.  I have heard the horror stories.  Don’t be over-ambitious.

2.  More importantly, you are missing the point of the Camino.  Yes, getting to the destination is the “aim.”  But the point is to be on a journey, a pilgrimage (whether spiritual or emotional).  Moving at the speed of sound renders this experience as just checking an item off the bucket list.  Which, if it is all it is for you, then fast speed might as well be your friend because you will get bored not seeing it as an experience for such a long way.  No judgment here, just saying that soaking it in is probably best.

The answer to this question could also depend on how much of the Camino are you planning to cover.  I only had a week and had to do the minimum distance to get the Compostela (the famous certificate granted to provide pilgrims with proof that they did indeed make it to Santiago de Compostela).  Therefore, I had to make sure I covered the distance.  Yet, I had enough time to sit for leisurely lunches and also not have to wake up at the crack of dawn.  I’d peg my speed at the mid-point with my max distance on a given day around 12-14 miles.

How to train to do the Camino

Let’s start the packing and training tips for doing the Camino with the latter.  The Camino is not Everest Base Camp or Mt. Kilimanjaro but that does not mean it is easy.  The challenges posed by the Camino are different than those epic climbs.  While altitude is a factor in those hikes, that is not the case with the Camino.

The mountains or hills faced in the Camino will not compare to hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or getting to Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro.  But if you walk more than the minimum distance required to get the Compostela, you will need to prepare for some good climbs.  And the corresponding downhills (always fun on the delicate knees of a hiker…).

The final factor to keep in mind is that while there may not be tons of steep hills nor altitude, this hike puts a lot of stress on your feet.  When I climbed Kilimanjaro, the distances walked on a given day were well in the single-digits in terms of miles (maybe it got to double digits in kilometer-land).  Yes, it was difficult due to low oxygen and steepness but it was not brutal on my feet.  Don’t get me wrong, when I would arrive at camp, I was desperate to take off my boots!  But the Camino is much more unforgiving when it comes to your feet.  They take a beating, so make sure they keep on ticking.

What to consider to build your Camino packing list

Before I get into the key items for your Camino packing list, clearly whether you are carrying all your stuff on your back or not makes a big difference.  Yes, there is an option to NOT carry it all yourself from place to place!  Now, that may not be your style and all that, and that’s OK.  But, for some, it is the way to go and it was for me 🙂

Regardless of how you do it, I will still issue the same warning:  don’t over-pack.  You will be amazed at how little you can get by with.  A lot less than you think.  And worst comes to worst, you can go to a local store along the way and buy what you need…

But I also say that because going on this journey, in my view, is about changing some parameters about our lives.  Develop new insights, clear our heads, have new experiences, and -hopefully- be renewed in whatever way we may need to.  So, with all that said, here are some things that I deemed important to take along my Camino…

What to pack for the Camino

Feet

  • Good walking shoes or boots.  Without good shoes that you have broken in BEFORE the Camino, you will be in trouble.  Don’t be cheap about this item.  Cheap out on the camera or other items but not on this, my friends!  These could be boots or walking shoes.  The former gives you better ankle protection.  The latter may feel more comfortable.  You may want both to alternate.  After many days of wearing the same show, you may long for a different pair…  Up to you (as are all the tips I share here!).  Certainly, I would say, get waterproof in case it rains.

  • Along with the shoes, go non-cotton socks.  What good is a pair of proper and broken in walking shoes if you are going to just slap on cotton socks?  Cotton socks are an invitation for blisters and the painful fun that means for the few days after you develop them.  Wool socks and, ideally, liners complete the most important focus of your gear list:  your feet.
  • Now, if the socks and shoes don’t do it and a blister seems imminent (sometimes blisters just develop…), you must quickly take action to prevent the blister from materializing. At that point, you want to protect the spot where you are beginning to feel the burning (which is exactly what you feel BEFORE the blister arrives). The simplest and cheapest solution is to place a small piece of duct tape on that spot on your foot. Yes, stop, take footwear off and apply the small patch of duct tape – don’t wait.  So duct tape is a must-carry on any hike with the added side benefit that you can repair other things with it as needed. But don’t carry the roll, for goodness’ sake! Wrap duct tape on a pencil or on your hiking pole and you will save space and weight.
  • In case things go too far and you develop a blister, a blister repair kit is a good idea to bring along.  I was the beneficiary of a fellow’s trekker blister “repair” kit coming down Kilimanjaro and became a believer.  I don’t recall the brand I used on the Camino but the item below is the one I bought for my next hike in Patagonia.

Clothing

Now we can get past all things feet.  From a clothing standpoint, the usual advice applies here.

  • Layers.  The weather can vary and some high spots can get very cold.  And depending on the time of year, it could get quite warm during the day.  So plan to have layers which help manage the changes you may experience throughout the day.
  • Waterproof.  At some point, you may encounter rain so you want proper rain gear which might as well also serve as wind-breaking gear.  In terms of things to wear, make sure it is really waterproof (Gore-Tex). Waterproof also refers to protecting the contents of your backpack, whether by placing a bag over your backpack or putting the contents of your backpack in plastic bags.  Your choice!
  • Wicking.  Since you may not be carrying one-for-every-day in the underwear category and to help your skin remain “un-irritated”, wicking underwear is a good idea.  It removes humidity before sweat covers your skin which prevents bad odors.  And, hence, should you decide to wear them more than once between washings, then at least you know you will not smell!  Because my hike was only 7 days, I had underwear for every day but I still used wicking underwear for the comfort of not developing chaffing, etc.

  • Temperatures.  Plan for a range of temperatures.  This ties to the layers bit but also realize that, at night when you are not hiking, you may want to sit outdoors and it may get chilly at night, even in the summer depending on the weather system on a given day in your area.  So some light jacket in the summer may be appropriate for the evenings; perhaps more substantial at other times of the year
  • Comfort.  Be sure the materials you wear are comfortable to you.  During 6-8 hours of hiking, you want to be comfortable not itching or something else.  When you get to the next town, you WILL want those walking shoes off and will love slipping into some flip flops, sandals or running shoes or whatever other comfortable footwear you like.  Bring only one of those, no need to overdo it, but allow yourself this luxury!  (Flip flops could be handy to shower in communal showers if that’s your accommodation style!)

Miscellaneous

  • Hunger avoidance devices (read: snacks).  You will not hungry on this trek!  Plenty of places to stop and get a snack or a meal at very reasonable prices.  Carrying two boxes of protein or granola bars is wasted weight and space and, more importantly, keeping you from sampling local foods and snacks.  So, just carry what you buy locally or just stop along the way!
  • A camera!  You can certainly opt for a different kind of travel if you are not drawn to capturing memories in this manner.  Journaling, for example, may be a better way for some.  For yours truly, though, the imagery of a place not only captures my attention but is also a way I use to be able to share what I experience.  Along with this go the requisite battery charger or extra batteries and an appropriate number of SD cards 🙂  I do like the wifi SD card which allows me to transfer photos out of my SD card onto another device (good for backup or to clear memory on the SD card).
  • Toiletries and accessories.  Yep, you know what this list is about (toothbrush, deodorant, etc.) so no need to detail it nor give you too much advice.  But I will call out some things…  First, bring travel-sized items.  Second, see how much stuff you can live without.  Do you really need a hair dryer?  (No judgment implied!)  Finally, some items I will recommend…  Some hand lotion/moisturizer is a good idea.  Chapstick is a must.  Also, some antibacterial liquid (e.g., Purell) is a must along,  Finally, add wipies to the list but no need to bring more than a handful per day, actually.
  • First aid.  While there are kits out there, I just go with common sense and practical.  There are drug stores and the like in the towns you will pass so no need to overdo it.  Some band-aids, some anti-diarrhea meds in case you can’t make it to them town (no one had troubles of this sort in our group), some anti-inflammatory in case something hurts (knees, for example), and the like should make a good kit.  As a packing tip, I used ziploc bags that are half of the regular sandwich bag to pack meds.  This eliminated the need to carry bottles which can occupy more space.  Whether you want to get Cipro (digestive system antibiotic), Ambien (to sleep) or anything else, it is up to you and your doctor.  I took none of those meds though I take Cipro when I go to some destinations.  Of course, if you are taking prescription drugs, bring those and write down somewhere the main ingredient (vs. the medication name).  If something happens and you need to get more locally, the main ingredient is what you need.
  • Night light.  If you will be sleeping in shared accommodations, this comes in handy to minimize disrupting others’ sleep and/or preventing you from tripping in the middle of the night as you make a night run to the restroom 🙂  I prefer headlamps like this one so I can be “hands-free”; please don’t make me explain why 🙂

  • Backpack.  Please, whatever you do, do not bring a Swiss Army backpack (well-designed as they are for the frequent traveler) or, even worse, your college backpack.  You will be likely carrying more weight than you are used to.  And, I guarantee, that your back and shoulders will appreciate you bringing a backpack with a waist strap and a chest strap to help distribute the impact of the load  on your upper body.  Plus be sure the main straps and the backpack have some padding where they will touch your body.  Remember, it is many days of carrying it so be good to yourself.  And size does matters, when it comes to backpacks.  Will the size you get be able to fit all that you will carry on your back every day?  Remember, if you want the convenience, there are services that every day pick up your luggage and deliver it to the next place you will stay (if you know in advance).  With this option, you only carry what you need during your walk.  Bottom line:  figure out how much you need the backpack to carry (don’t forget to account for the water!) and then choose a size.

  • Backpack cover.  Along with this, have something ready to cover your backpack if it rains.  Trust me, no matter what they say, water will get in if it rains enough (e.g., think of the zippers).  You can buy a backpack cover (some backpacks come with it) or, save money and bring a nice size, good quality trash bag or maybe even just a cheap poncho.  Additionally, a way to prevent stuff getting wet is by packing items in large ziplocs before placing them within your backpack.  Remember that you are on the go and it may not always be easy or possible to dry any items that get wet.

Need any other Camino packing and training tips?

Alright, there is likely more to be said and advice to be given for someone planning their Camino packing and training.  More than likely, I will make some edits in the future.  In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts, ask questions, etc. in the comments section.  Remember, your questions or suggestions will likely benefit other readers!  And if you want an Excel version of my Camino packing list (with a lot of the smaller items), leave me a comment and I will send to you.

Buen Camino!

Want to see what every day was like?  Click on the day and read on!  Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6 and Day 7

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How to Visit Montserrat – A Spectacular Site!

5 December 2017 by 2 Comments

Spain is not short on amazing places to see.  From the main cities to coastal towns, to secondary but highly beautiful or historical towns.  Spain has it all and I have been fortunate to have seen a lot of it.  I decided to visit Montserrat as we would be passing near it on our way to Barcelona.  I am glad I did.  Montserrat served as a reminder to me of how much I have left to discover of the amazing “madre patria” (mother country)!

Why visit Montserrat?

Montserrat is an easy day trip from Barcelona, is host to a Benedictine abbey (Santa Maria de Montserrat) and monastery that sit grandly at around 4,000 ft of altitude.  Its name literally translates to “serrated mountain”.  That is one appropriate name as it is a jagged-topped mountain that rises up from the Catalonian landscape.  Montserrat is an amazing site for several reasons.

For the Catholic faithful, it is home to the Virgin of Montserrat (the “black virgin”).  Many visit Montserrat as a pilgrimage of faith.

For the hiker or active traveler, Montserrat offers a neat place to trek up to enjoy the mountaintop views.  I understand that it is not a hard hike.

And for the traveler, it is a great destination offering splendid views, great architecture, cultural perspective, and a thrill just to get up to it!

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View upon exiting the railway station

Some History on Montserrat (but not too much!)

The monastery atop Montserrat has been around since the 10th century and it is still a functioning monastery.  It is absolutely mind boggling to me to think it has been there over a thousand years.  I even read that it been the home to an important religious site since Roman times before Christ.  St. Ignatius of Loyola came to this site to pray and contemplate.  Eventually, St. Ignatius went on to found the Jesuit order in the Catholic Church (Pope Francis belongs to this order).

More recently, the monastery in Montserrat suffered closure during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s.  And the killing of 22 of its monks.  Communist combatants in the Spanish Civil War killed many religious all around the country.  These same Communists destroyed many churches – and religious birth, marriage and death records stored within them. A real shame that humans could be so ignorant and disrespectful.

In any case, the basilica itself is not that old.  Yet has suffered great damage during wars and fires over the centuries.  The basilica has a museum with art work that includes the likes of Picasso, Dali, and El Greco.  A statue of the black Virgin that sits above and behind the main altar of the basilica.  The statue has its origins, supposedly, in the Holy Land.  It dates from the early days of Christianity though others believe it was carved many centuries later (Middle Ages).  All this is why I recommend anyone going to Barcelona to visit Montserrat!

Getting to Montserrat

The good news for anyone desiring to visit Montserrat is that it is easily accessible whether you have a car or you take a train from Barcelona.

If you are driving, head in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat.  We came from Andorra via Lleida and it was easy to find though, at the very end, exactly how to get to our destination took a little more guesswork…  If you are coming from Barcelona, well, it is just about 45 minutes away and not terribly difficult to get to.

Once there, the options for parking are either parking up at the monastery (parking is limited and it is not free so maybe not as ideal as it may sound), or parking by one of the two railway stations that I will talk about a little further down.  Where you park is really based on how you want to go up.  As I mentioned, you can drive up.  You can also hike up if you are so inclined. I did not hike up (though I wished I could have) but I hear the round trip up and down the trail is about 20 km and the trail is relatively easy and fairly ‘stepped.’

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At Monistrol-Vila railway station’s parking area – notice the mural showing the ascent and the mountaintop!

Now if you don’t want to drive up or walk up, then you have two options:  the cable car (or “Aeri”) or the inclined railway (“Cremallera“).  They both are easy ways to go up but you need to decide before you get there as each is taken from a different point around the area.  Both the cable car and railway have frequent departures which vary depending on the season you visit – schedules are posted online and at the stations.

If you take the train in to Montserrat from Barcelona, you will arrive at the lower station, Monistrol de Montserratu, where you can take the railway up.  If you drive, you can opt to drive a little further up and park at the railway station Monistrol-Vila; there was open (uncovered) parking for buses and a parking deck for the rest of us.  We opted to start at Monistrol-Vila as there was ample free parking, and the station was clean and new.  If you do decide to use this station like we did, remember that on the way down, you need get off at the first stop of the railway!

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At the railway station

We opted for the railway as we had heard that it allows more time to absorb the scenic views (the cable car only takes 5 mins whereas the railway takes between 15-20 mins) and it is pretty amazing to climb the slopes of the mountain via the train.  The train is very comfortable and the views were indeed great; the perfect choice for us.  The cost was around 10 euros for the round trip, which is really not too bad.

Note that there are packages you can get for entrance to the museum, audio guides, etc. at the train station if you are interested.  We had limited time to spend at Montserrat so we, sadly, could not spend the time to take advantage of all this.

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Looking down towards Monistrol de Montserrat from the Cremallera

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Heading up the Cremallera, a small green train can be seen on its way down

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My Mom not realizing the down train was about to pass us!

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The Cremallera railway station atop Montserrat to the right

It is worth noting that one can go even higher up the mountain via a second funicular (Funicular de Sant Joan) located behind the railway station atop Montserrat!  It does not take long but, again, we were pressed for time so I had to skip that regretfully.

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A second funicular can take you to the highest point in Montserrat – I am sure it’d be worth it!

My research showed there were a couple of places to stay on the mountain but I did not look into it.  I do imagine it is a spectacular place to stay and watch the sun set and rise…  If you visit Montserrat (or have visited it) and stayed at those places, drop a comment and share how it was!

Visiting the basilica and the Virgin of Montserrat

Once you get up, however you did so, everything atop Montserrat is in very close proximity and easy to navigate.  There is some slope to walk up towards the basilica and monastery complex but it is a nice short walk.   When you leave the railway station, you can go straight up some steps into the walkway up, or you can make a left and avoid the steps and walk up an incline.  This last approach passes a little market shop and a small café in case you need to eat or drink something.

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Walking up towards the monastery and basilica (there are restrooms in this alley)

Along the way up, you will pass the museum and one of the places of lodging up there.  After you pass these places, then you enter the area called the “atrium.”  It is a large plaza with some arches that affords views down towards the railway station and beyond.  At that point, the basilica/monastery complex is in front of you.  But to see the facade of the basilica, you need to pass through some arches into a small inner courtyard.

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At the so-called “atrium” – a plaza with great views – up and down and across

Montserrat, Montserrate, Spain, Cataluña, Catalan, catholic, mountain, travel

Turning around with the basilica/monastery behind me – beautiful peaks all around

When we entered that courtyard, we saw a bride and groom who were about to get married.  Thankfully, the event did not close the visit to see the Virgin of Montserrat (also called the black Virgin due to the color of the paint applied to it over centuries).

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The entranceway towards the basilica facade – simple but beautiful

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Inner courtyard of the Montserrat basilica – notice the wedding couple

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Detail of the basilica’s facade

The interior of the basilica felt a tad heavy and dark to me but not so much to be drab.  If there were no tourists, I would definitely feel like I could calm my soul and pray in peace inside the basilica.

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Heavy Gothic feel to the interior of the basilica

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A rather darkish yet gold-heavy interior – primed for the wedding about to take place

The statue of the Virgin sits in a narrow passageway above the high altar.  You can see it from anywhere in the church (you can see someone in a blue jacket above the altar in some of my pictures; how convenient for my photo-taking!) but to visit it face-to-face, you stand in line in the inner courtyard off to the right and you proceed along the side chapels of the basilica, up several stairs and, eventually a very narrow staircase  to individually get to see, touch and pray to the Virgin.  Photos are not allowed once you are by the statue (there is a guard…).  I took a respectful photo at the bottom of the steps so you can visualize the space at least.

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The statue of the Virgin with a faithful wearing a blue jacket

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Left: Initial staircase up. Right: the final steps and the statue at the top

As throughout the rest of the trip around Spain and France, I felt blessed to be able to come to this important Catholic site following our visit to Lourdes atop an amazing mountain in Spain with my wonderful mother and sister!!  Thanks for coming with me!  (And my uncle too!)

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With my Mom and sister – lucky guy!

Pin this to your travel board – and visit Montserrat!

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Visit Montserrat – an easy day trip from Barcelona!

Like Spain?   Check out these other posts about places to see!

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20 Images of La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

29 November 2017 by 4 Comments

La Sagrada Familia, the grandiose basilica (mostly) designed by Antoni Gaudi, has become the symbol of Barcelona, and that’s not a stretch by any means:  both have been growing and evolving over the decades.  And, for La Sagrada Familia, at least, that journey will end in the next decade (target: 2026) as it is expected to be finished by the end.  Gaudi’s masterpiece needs no introduction, though perhaps some background info could not hurt.  There is no justice I can do both to its story and to how it looks and feels in person.  So this post is meant to deliver, as well as photos can, eye-candy on this masterpiece of architecture, construction, and faith…

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West side of the basilica (Passion façade side)

Backdrop on La Sagrada Familia

Gaudi was brought in to complete the design of the basilica early on in the project (a year into the project).  He continued working on it until his death in 1926 (hence targeting 2026 as the year for its completion) but, at the time he died, the basilica was only a fifth to a quarter done.  Initially, there had been opposition to it but certainly it has become iconic, almost legendary.  Its construction has been slow because it was funded through donations, and the Spanish Civil War also disrupted the effort in the 1930s.  To me, it is a marvel of imagination and creativity.  It would not surprise me to hear someone say it is ‘too much.’  But despite its eclectic designs/features, it feels elegant, not overwhelming.  If it were not for the tourists meandering and talking, it could be -more importantly- a place for contemplation or quiet prayer.  I sure hope there are/will be times when it will be closed to tours/visits though I do not know how they really could control people going in to pray versus to admire (read, gawk) the building and snap photos endlessly… like I did!!  #confession

The basilica’s design

Gaudi’s designs were lost in a fire though some of the designs were re-constructable from other artifacts available that captured what Gaudi was planning.  However, that does not mean that what we see today is exactly Gaudi’s vision:  other architects over the decades have left their imprint on the design as the work progresses and new techniques/technologies have become available.  It is hard to imagine, for example, that Gaudi could have laid out the lighting design given how much illumination know-how and technology have changed since the first quarter of the 20th century…  I am no architect, no designer, no artist but below is my layman’s recollection of the plan of the basilica and some opinions…

The spires (towers) of La Sagrada Familia

The general concept of the design includes an array of spires or towers:  a high tower representing Jesus Christ and four secondary towers representing each of the evangelists (John, Mark, Matthew and Luke) and another for the Virgin Mary.  The remaining spires will represent the twelve apostles.

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Two of the 18 spires of the basilica – Hosanna Excelsis

The three façades of La Sagrada Familia

The basilica has or will have three large façades:  the Nativity, the Passion, and the Glory.  This latter one is to be the most grandiose of the three and is currently under construction.  Its completion will require the demolition of the building block that faces it across the street as it will have a large staircase leading up to it but, no worries, people knew these were the plans since early on, probably before current residents were born!

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Looking to the main façade under construction: Glory

The Nativity façade was the first one built and it was completed in Gaudi’s time so it is most connected to his vision.  The façade struck me as very connected with nature, with animals and floral type of arrangements noticeable; the scene is both peaceful and elaborate.  Of course, the Holy Family is at the center of it.

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Detail of the Nativity façade showing the Holy Family

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Detail of the Nativity façade, stepping back a little. Angels can be seen around the Holy Family

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Upper portion of the Nativity façade

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Another angle of the Nativity façade

The Passion façade definitely conveys sadness and angst, as the Passion of Christ would instill:  the figures are angular and emoting their feelings on stone in a sparsely decorated space – brilliant and moving, and a clear contrast to the Nativity façade.

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The Passion façade

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Detail of the upper part of the Passion façade – the words “Nazarean Rex” can be seen

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Detail of the Passion façade – deep sorrow on that stone face!

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Detail of the Passion façade – Jesus tied as he was lashed

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Detail of the Passion façade – carrying the cross on the right, and the shroud on the left

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Detail of the Passion façade

The basilica’s grand interior – behold!

The inside of the basilica cleverly plays on light.  On the west side of the interior, with red and associated colors created by the stained glass on the side of the Passion façade.  On the opposite side across the aisle, are the greens and blues that feel cooler and happier:  the side of the Nativity façade.  The columns seem to fly up to hold the roof of the sanctuary and feel like trees holding up a canopy.  And, it takes effort to notice but the shape of the columns evolves as the column rises:  a square base may morph to a circular cross-section after passing through an octagon shape, for example.  To me, the highest ceiling is a visual contrast with its modern feel versus the traditional walls at the end of the apses/naves with their big stained glass windows and other more traditional motifs.

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Nativity side with its greens and blues

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Columns remembering the evangelists Luke and Mark, 2 of the 4 main columns

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Strong as a tree trunk!

Looking up reveals an impressively designed, symmetric and yet not overwhelming ceiling…

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Looking up at the ceiling – amazing! Notice the contrast to the wall on the right

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Detail of the main ceiling

Finally, the altar is simple in the extreme – a sharp contrast to the ceiling and side walls of the basilica.  The space feels cavernous by the height of the ceiling, the long tree-like columns and the emptiness in the altar area.  But that cavernous feeling is counter-balanced with the colors and light that is cleverly used in opposition (or, at least, I assume the opposition was planned for…) around the outer walls.

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The main altar – extreme simplicity is a sharp contrast to the rest of it all!

 

Nanoblock Sagrada Familia – I enjoyed putting one of these together!
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How to visit La Sagrada Familia

There are several ways to visit and several things to see in La Sagrada Familia.  From a basic unguided entry ticket at 15 euros (as of this writing), to an audio-guided visit for 22 euros, to going all the way to the top for 29 euros, there is a price point and scope of visit for everyone.  Sadly, going up was not available the day I visited so I was deprived of the experience of going up and taking in the views from above.  However, we did do a pre-purchased guided tour through a local tour agency located across the square from the basilica which secured us an entry time, a guide (in Spanish in our case since it was easier for my Mom), and avoiding any lines to enter the basilica.  The tour included visiting the basement of the basilica which has several exhibits.  One of the most interesting items is the exhibit which shows hanging chains which upside-down show the structure of the basilica as it elliptical or curvy inner structures are well modeled by gravity.  I may not be explaining this well but it is a clever tool for the architect.  In any case, the basement also shows photos of the basilica being built over the decades – all fascinating stuff.  Dedicate time to this visit and soak it all in!

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Looking up at the Passion façade

Pin this to your travel board!

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In Search of Andraka in Spain’s Beautiful Basque Country

20 November 2017 by 3 Comments

One of the reasons for my recent trip to Spain, as I shared in an earlier post, was to see the ancestral lands of my Mom’s family in the Basque region of Spain (Euskal Herria in Basque).  My Mom’s last name (Andraca, in Spanish) is the name of a home that existed a long time ago where the family originated near Bilbao, Spain in the province called Bizkaia (or Vizcaya or Biscay).  We wanted to see the place but it was only one of many places we had in our roughly-sketched family tree (which also included the neighboring province of Guipuzkoa).  So, since we were not going to just one place, we decided to take a full day and just drive around these two provinces and take in the landscape of Spain’s Basque country…

All the towns in our Basque country…

Our family tree shows a lot of ancestors coming from the provinces of Bizkaia and Guipuzkoa, two of the Basque region’s provinces.  Many of their last names are the names of villages or towns spread about these provinces.  And, when not, we know which towns they came from.  Places like Bergara, Gorliz, Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Azpeitia, Azkoitia, and others feature prominently in our family history.  We definitely would not be able to hit each and everyone one of these due to time limitations and would only stop at a few even if we passed by them.  But it is not like we would have discovered unknown cousins (first, second or even fourth) – our ancestor who came from Spain to Cuba got to Cuba in 1800 so too far in the past for any real connection with living descendants of his own ancestors…

Zarautz – Beach town

We left San Sebastian, our base for a couple of days, and headed west following more or less the coast.  We had no set plans of where we would stop along the way.  One of the first places we passed caught our eye and we decided to see if we could find parking and get out and walk around some.  This place was Zarautz, a beach town of about 20,000 15km (9 mi) west of San Sebastian, that felt like a very livable place, not just a beach town for visitors.  (The town connects to San Sebastian and Bilbao by train so even if one is not driving there, one can get there on public transport.)

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The beach

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West end of the beach

The beach was long (I read it is about 2.8 km long; the longest in that coastline) and we could certainly see how it would be an appealing tourist destination.  The beach was not packed and it may be that it was likely already the end of the season (but finding street parking was impossible still!).  We sat in the plaza above the underground parking deck and looked out at the beach and ocean.  My Mom, uncle and I decided to walk down to get our feet wet by the waters of the Bay of Biscay as maybe our ancestors did somewhere up or down that coast many centuries ago…

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Mom and uncle walking to the water!

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16th century Palacio de Narros from the beach

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Conveniently located to wash one’s feet after stepping on the beach

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My sis and uncle enjoying the view

More Basque coastline

We both reluctantly and eagerly got back in the car.  Zarautz was worth staying but we had a key objective for the day ahead…  We drove from Zarautz past Getaria (another great-looking coastal town) and, somewhere around Zumaia, turned inland on the road.  It was disappointing to leave the beautiful coast because, as you can see, it was beautiful.

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Yet another great beach west of Zarautz by Getaria

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Nice curvy road bordering hills that face the water

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Basque coastline beauty!

A phenomenal Basque lunch

We kept driving and after a failed attempt to reach Lekeitio (there was some festival that weekend with all roads leading to it blocked of – very disappointing as it was high on our list), we went inland.  And hunger was hitting… During a routine bathroom stop at a local bar in the town of Ereño (between Lekeitio and Bermeo but inland), my Mom came and told us the place had a restaurant and it had customers (my cardinal rule is to never go into an empty restaurant in an unknown town…).  The place was cozy, on the ground level of a 2- or 3-story building (can’t recall).  It was Restaurante Jatetxea Atxoste.

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The place we had lunch at in Ereño

It was SUPERB.  The thing I liked the most is the one I did not take a picture of:  the fresh cod sauteed with spinach.  It would be the single most delicious dish I had in the entire trip!  But captured for posterity were the red beans and the rice pudding which were excellent.

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Rice pudding dessert

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The red beans – I could just have ate them all!

I always prefer the small mom-and-pop places where, though service may not be stellar, the food typically is.  Great find, Mom!!

Driving through history:  Guernica

After lunch, on our way to Andraka, we made it a point to drive through the town of Guernica which suffered a massive air attack during Spain’s Civil War in 1937 by Nazi Germany, a bombing that lasted about 2 hours.  Picasso captured the pain and horror of that moment in history in a famous painting named after the town.  There is a mural in the town center matching the painting.  We did not plan to get out of the car but I did snap a quick side photo of the mural…

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The mural

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Guernica by Pablo Picasso

The main event:  Andraka

Andraka is not a town by my definition; not even a village, just some homes laying around (a few under construction) and a restaurant right by the road.  But it has the typical European signs announcing the ‘town’ and letting you know when are leaving the ‘town.’  If there was an original home from over 200 years ago that could have been our ancestros’, we did not see it; and that really didn’t matter that much to us.  After a quick walk around an old, abandoned house and snapping a couple of pix by signs that said “Andraka,” we got back in the car and continued on our drive, satisfied we had gotten to that area of Bizkaia where the last name Andraca originated for our family…

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How the area of Andraka looks

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The old home taken over by vegetation

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My uncle

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Mom, sister and yours truly

A truly unique and fun experience to have shared with loved ones!

Drive the amazing Basque coast!  Pin this to your travel board!

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Exploring France and Spain around the Pyrenees

24 September 2017 by Leave a Comment

My recent trip to Europe was centered on exploring a bit of Spain and France around the Pyrenees which serve as a natural border between these two countries.  I wanted to write this introductory post to the trip’s writings as the trip combined a few different objectives that neatly came together into a one-week trip.

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There is only one way to travel, especially with loved ones!

My mother and sister are both named after the Virgin of Lourdes who appeared to a peasant girl named Bernadette in a grotto near the town of Lourdes in the 1850s.  It has always been a dream to go visit this place that was so prominent in their lives given the tie to their name.  But, we also wanted to go to Lourdes as a religious pilgrimage to such a special place for us Catholics.  We wanted to go in thanksgiving for good health after illnesses suffered, and as prayer for continued health.

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Two Lourdes!

Another personal goal for me and everyone in the larger family is to visit ancestral lands in the Basque country of Spain.  These are not terribly far from Lourdes (about 3 hrs drive) so I saw the opportunity to connect these two destinations in one trip.  The specific towns were our ancestors came from (they left Spain for Cuba at the turn of the century near the year 1800) lay along the coast between San Sebastian and Bilbao, and inland from there with some ancestors coming from just west of modern Bilbao.  Ii had also always wanted to visit San Sebastian as I heard it had some of the most phenomenal cuisine in Europe.  Bilbao is an hour from San Sebastian, give or take, so flying into the larger airport at Bilbao made the most sense.  There we would rent a car that would take us around the Basque country and later to Lourdes.

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At the Bilbao airport headed to get our car

While getting to Lourdes from San Sebastian would take so little time, we decided to be sure to stop along the way or drive through small French towns that are easily accessible on the route.  We drove through charming Saint-Jean-de-Luz, stopped for a walk and lunch at Biarritz, and drove through impressive Bayonne (wish we had had more time to stay there and explore!).  Biarritz was a place my mom and her best friend growing up had always dreamed of so that was a bonus!

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At the edge of the pedestrian streets of Bayonne’s city center

After Lourdes, the most logical end points if we were not going to backtrack, were Toulouse, France or Barcelona, Spain.  Well, that was an easy decision.  I had been to Barcelona for the 1992 Olympics for three days but, really, was too focused on the Games to get to know the city (plus, I was sure it had changed!).  My mom has been to Barcelona decades ago but my sister had never been.  So Barcelona became the end point for the trip which, very conveniently, allowed me to drive through Andorra, the last of the tiny European countries for me to visit…  We split the drive from Lourdes to Barcelona by staying overnight in Andorra (which may have been a mistake, but who knew – stay tuned for that post!).  This allowed us, on the way to Barcelona, to stop at Montserrat to visit the monastery nested atop a mountain and accessible by cable car or train.

crossword puzzle

I always look forward to crossword puzzles on long flights

This plan sounded so good that my mom’s only brother opted to join us in this adventure.  Next came resolving the plane tickets to get there.  My uncle was headed there from Philly so he worked his itinerary separately.  My mom and sister, coming from Tampa, would naturally fly through Atlanta.  I had saved many miles with the local monster airline hoping to someday to do a fun trip with family and decided to go all in.  I lucked out in finding three seats in first class from Atlanta to Bilbao via Paris, and from Barcelona back to Atlanta on dates that would work for everyone.  My mom and sister got to do first class all the way from Tampa and back so no one was unhappy with the travel comforts!

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The four travelers awaiting the train in Montserrat

Once in Bilbao, we picked up a car.  I had under-estimated the trunk capacity and, though the four of us did very well in bringing a small roller bag each, I needed to upgrade the vehicle.  Unfortunately, the next level up was not available which meant I had to upgrade two levels with no goodwill from the rental company (I will name it for its lack of spirit:  Sixt).  This cost me dearly but, considering the plane tickets were free, and that this was a special trip, well, no regrets and all the way onward-and-forward!  The plan was to return the vehicle when we arrived in Barcelona as we figured we did not need there and I figured I would be tired of driving a large vehicle in Europe (it was a BMW X1).  I was glad to get rid of it, much as it was a great vehicle to drive!

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Our wheels in Europe

 

In terms of accommodations, we hoteled it everywhere except in Barcelona where we rented an apartment a block from Las Ramblas – prime location!  The owner, Carlos, was phenomenal and the apartment was spacious, comfortable and as-advertised (if anyone needs to find this apartment, just reach out and I can share).

So in the end this was the itinerary:

  • Day 1:  Arrival in Bilbao and head to San Sebastian
  • Day 2:  Drive the Basque countryside and visit ancestral lands anchored on the town of Andraka
  • Day 3:  Depart San Sebastian and head to Lourdes with a stop in Biarritz
  • Day 4:  Spend the day in Lourdes
  • Day 5:  Drive through the beautiful Pyrenees and explore Andorra la Vella in the afternoon/evening
  • Day 6:  Head to Barcelona with a stop in Montserrat, Spain
  • Day 7:  Explore Barcelona
  • Day 8:  Explore Barcelona some more
  • Day 9:  Head home!

I have to say that we packed a lot into 8 days but it was well worth it.  We had a mixture of lots of walking, lots of enjoying the food and resting, and just happy to be together going to all these special places.  Hope we get to do it again – salud!

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Salud!

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How to Do a Tour of Real Madrid’s Home | Bernabéu Stadium

28 December 2015 by 8 Comments

I may not be the world’s most serious football (soccer) fan.  Or the world’s 100-millionth most serious football (soccer!) fan.  But I know to recognize where history happened, where history happens, or where history will happen.  Madrid‘s Santiago Bernabéu Stadium is all three and I was looking forward the tour of Real Madrid home stadium.  It is well-known to be a great tour so well worth the cost to go in.  Bernabéu, which seats over 80,000 fans, is the seat of Real Madrid, a football team over 100 years old (the stadium dates from 1947).  Real Madrid is the most valuable football team in the world, valued at over $3B.  Yep, that is a “B.”   And this is their home.Bernabeu, Madrid, museum, museo, Real Madrid, tour, Spain, tourism, travel, photo, Olympus

Doing a Tour of Real Madrid’s Home

To go, you can buy tickets in advance on the team’s website or just approach the ticket window by Gate 7 which is what we did.  The stadium is opened just about every day of the year for tours which is nice as sometimes as a tourist you don’t know the local holidays m(but watch out for game days!).  There is an option to get an audioguide which helps understand what you are looking at though many things do not need an explanation… easy savings of 5 euros if you don’t use it.  Do note that wheelchair access is not possible through every bit of the tour due to stairs, etc.  Price may change over time but assume around 25 euros for an adult.

Getting to Bernabéu

Getting to the stadium is pretty easy:  it is next to a metro stop of the same name!  (Santiago Bernabéu).  We walked from our hotel along the main boulevard on which the stadium is located (Paseo de la Castellana).  Doing so gave us time for a nice walk and enjoy the diverse architecture of that part of Madrid.

What You Will See on a Tour of Bernabéu

The tour takes you through the history of the club showing famous trophies, shoes and other items in a multi-media and interactive setting.

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One can listen to stadium sounds in this exhibit

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Raul’s shoes in a display of famous players’ shoes – no favoritism here

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Exhibit showing Raul’s best goals

The museum really helps emphasize, though its interpretation, the glory of the Real Madrid club.  Beyond this, the visitor gets to see the field of play as spectators do from a high vantage point and, later, as players do:  right from the field and from their bench!

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Top seating area – not a bad seat!

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On the field!  And I sprinted across its width too

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The lesser known but more impressive Raúl

The tour takes the visitor back door through the locker room and other spots before leading the visitor, surprise, to the stadium store – of course.

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Players’ showers

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The locker room (wonder if they need to see their photo to remember their spot…)

Bernabéu is an incredible place, I am sure, to watch a match.  I hope to re-visit it one day as a spectator but, in the meantime, a tour of Real Madrid’s stadium will have to do!

This is one amazing place to check out in Madrid!  Pin to your travel board!

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To visit Real Madrid’s website, go here.

Check out these other posts about what else to see in Spain!

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6 Cool Things to Do in Madrid

21 December 2015 by 26 Comments

In this post, I will share with you some unique cool things to do in Madrid – whether you only have a few hours as you are only passing through, or have more time in the city.  They are not the ONLY things to do in Madrid but, at least, they are a little off-the-beaten-path.

A veteran of Madrid

I have visited Spain’s capital city, Madrid, several times over the last 25 years and, while it may not have the charm of Paris or Venice, it is a town meant to be lived, not visited. 

And I don’t mean “lived” as in “live there” but a place “to live life.”  Sure, other cities are beautiful and glamorous but I find cities where life is lived to the fullest the best.  And such is Madrid.  

Many cool things to do in Madrid

I am going to share with you six unique things to do in Spain’s capital.  Clearly, I will not rattle off the best known places.  Those are well documented in guidebooks as “must see” places. 

For example, the Retiro Park (awesome to stroll  or jog), the great art museums (ruled by the Prado but also the Reina Sofía Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum), the Royal Palace, the Almudena Cathedral, the Puerta de Alcalá, the Bernabéu Stadium, etc..  Also, there are easy day trips from Madrid which I will cover another time. 

Clearly, Madrid has a lot to offer anyone wishing to explore this great European capital, loaded with something for everyone be it architecture, food, art, relaxation, partying, shopping, etc.

#1 Drinks at the Westin Palace

The Westin Palace is an extremely well-situated hotel in the best part of Madrid (close the Prado Museum, the Retiro Park, etc.).  It has incredible architectural charm – and a great lobby lounge with separate areas to sit, depending on your mood.  My favorite spot was right under the colorful and bright cupola. 

If you don’t get to stay at the hotel, at minimum, go and treat yourself to a glass of wine or a cocktail (a favorite activity of mine while traveling, like in Rome’s Campo Fiore…).  Definitely a place to sit back, soak in, and watch the hotel’s clientele.  (We saw a band member of an 80s American group enjoying a cocktail not far from us.)  

It is a place to rest and recover from exploring the streets, museums, and eateries of Madrid – re-charging is important to keep up with the energy of Madrid!

Cupola, Westin, Madrid, Spain, architecture, design, glass, stained, blue, travel, cool things to do in madrid
Awesome glasswork

#2 Tapas and drinks at Plaza Santa Ana

Plaza Santa Ana is at the heart of Madrid in the renowned the Barrio de las Letras (“neighborhood of the letters” as many Spanish writers of the classical literature era lived in the streets of the area, including Don Quijote‘s Miguel de Cervantes himself).  Sure, there are many other plazas with their own charm.  Such is the Plaza Mayor, which must officially be “THE” plaza of Madrid.  While I like the architecture that surrounds it, I don’t take to it…

But, Plaza Santa Ana (near the Puerta del Sol) is medium-sized, manageable and a great spot to sit and watch life.  In addition, you get to enjoy beautiful buildings (like the 17th century Teatro Español) while enjoying some tapas and beer/wine. 

And the great thing is that you can do it from the plaza itself (versus from inside a locale) – or from up high at the trendy and cool bar at the roof terrace of the Reina Victoria Hotel.  There is a charge to go up but it applies to a drink.  As long as you have a drink, entrance is free.  The views of the Plaza at night are awesome.

Reina Victoria, Madrid, Spain, Plaza Santa Ana, travel, bar, food, photo, , cool things to do in madrid
The Hotel Reina Victoria at sunset
Reina Victoria, Madrid, Spain, Plaza Santa Ana, travel, bar, food, photo, cool things to do in madrid
View from the rooftop terrace of the Hotel Reina Victoria (Teatro Español in the background)

#3 Tapas crawl

The centrally located Plaza Santa Ana is one of my favorite spots to hang out.  But Madrid is full of neighborhood plazas and other areas where you can find great spots to have a delicious tapa and a cold caña (short beer).  Madrileños on a typical night out move from tapas bar to tapas bar prior to going somewhere for dinner.

A favorite spot of mine for tapas is near the Calle Cervantes (in the Barrio de las Letras) where the are several good “classic” tapa establishments.  Taberna La Daniela, Cervecería Cervantes and Taberna de la Dolores are all different in how they feel inside and are great spots to eat, sip, walk, and repeat! 

My local friends actually referred me to these places so I knew they were good before I went.  These places are actually right by the side street behind the Westin Palace where I stayed.  Convenient!  Try anything on display, play a little, explore.  You never know what discovery you will make!

Taberna de la Dolores, Madrid, Spain, España, tapas bar, food, foodie, Olympus, travel
Taberna de la Dolores
La Daniela, tapas bar, Madrid, Spain, España, food, foodie, travel, photo, Samsung Galaxy
About to go in!
La Daniela, tapas bar, Madrid, Spain, España, food, foodie, travel, photo, Olympus
The counter at La Daniela – always hang out at the counter!

#4 The Mercado San Miguel

I could not believe that I had never visited the Mercado San Miguel in Madrid during prior visits.  Until I learned that it had been closed for years to open finally again in 2009.  It is a feast for the eyes.  And probably all the other senses too, most especially the palate! 

The structure itself is about one hundred years old with a style reminiscent of Paris metro entrances.

But the main attraction is, of course, the food.  You can not only have a quick tapa, a piece of jamon iberico, a glass of wine, but you can also buy fruits, vegetables, etc. as locals do.  It is a real functioning market.  And it is a spot where the locals meet up or just run into each other if they are from the neighborhood.  

Stop there for a bite or a meal – and a glass of wine, ¡por supuesto!

Mercado San Miguel, Madrid, Spain, España, travel, food, foodie, photo, Samsung Galaxy
Mercado San Miguel
ham, jamón, Mercado San Miguel, Madrid, Spain, España, travel, food, foodie, photo, Samsung Galaxy
¡Jamón!
fruits, frutas, Mercado San Miguel, Madrid, Spain, España, travel, food, foodie, photo, Samsung Galaxy
Color and flavor!

#5 Drinks with a rooftop (“azotea”) view

Thanks to my local friends, I “discovered” the Azotea, or rooftop, at the Círculo de Bellas Artes building (built in 1919) on the Calle de Alcalá corner with the Gran Vía, arguably Madrid’s grand boulevard.  The Azotea offers not only a bar but all sorts of comfy spaces to just lounge around with friends.  It must be spectacular at night. 

But it is also great at sunset or just during the daytime to admire the views of the Spanish capital.  I am a big fan of going up high and view cities from above.  And what a better way than if the rooftop comes with a nice place to eat or enjoy a drink.

Azotea, Bellas Artes, rooftop bar, rooftop terrace, Madrid, Spain, nightlife, photo, Samsung Galaxy
The Azotea terrace
Azotea, Correos, Palacio de Comunicaciones,Bellas Artes, rooftop bar, rooftop terrace, Madrid, Spain, nightlife, photo, Samsung Galaxy
The former main post office – now the Palacio de Comunicaciones

#6 And just walking around

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cobblestone, street, Madrid, walk, walking, Spain, travel, tourism, photo, Olympus

Walking about, aimlessly, sometimes can yield the best experiences in getting to see a city, to experience it, to feel it.  Madrid is no different, and perhaps one of the best cities in terms of “walkable exploration”.  Walking around aimlessly is indeed one of my favorite things to do in Madrid.  

My Madrid friends friends over the years have shown me around districts I did not know with small plazas and great places to enjoy food and drinks.  Often, these walks meant that after enjoy a bite and a drink, we would get up and walk to yet another plaza.  Whether as part of a drink/tapa crawl or just during the day to sightsee, this is the best way to get the vibe of a place.  You can stroll through parks like the famous El Retiro, grand avenues or tiny old “anonymous” streets. 

Madrid is a phenomenal town to see monuments and buildings old and new so if you like architecture, walk away, I say!  And be leisurely and random about where you walk.

Puerta de Alcalá, Madrid, Spain, arch, architecture, tourism, travel, photo
Puerta de Alcalá near El Retiro
Plaza Mayor, Madrid, Spain, architecture, travel, tourism, Olympus
Plaza Mayor
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Cathedral of the Almudena across the Palace
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The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) in Madrid, Spain
Congreso, Congress, Madrid, Spain, nighttime, lights, classic
Congress (Congreso de los Diputados)
modern architecture, Madrid, Spain, Olympus, photo
modern architecture, Madrid, Spain, Olympus, photo

Walking unknowingly by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, we happened upon the presentation of credentials by foreign ambassadors who crossed the Plaza Mayor (I assume coming from the royal palace) and dropped/picked up the dignitaries in colorful carriages.  So one never knows what one will find!  (I had to ask a random person watching what was going on.)

tradition, carriage, ambassador, Madrid, Spain, photo, Samsung Galaxy
One of the carriages bringing the dignataries – fancy

Hope you enjoy these unique, cool things to do in Madrid!  Have you been?  Any places you’d recommend??

P.S. – I receive no compensation, discount, special privileges or anything else in return for mentioning the Westin Palace or the eateries and bars mentioned in this writeup.  I paid every penny (or euro cent) it cost. I truly enjoyed all these places and that’s the only reasons I write about them here!

Add Madrid to your travel board!!

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Madrid, Spain, España, royal palace, travel
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Finisterre: The End of Earth No More!

5 September 2015 by 2 Comments

A “short” 90-km walk from Santiago de Compostela, where the famous Camino (Way of St. James) ends, is Finisterre.  Finisterre is a town but the more famous Finisterre is the cape that signifies “the end of earth.”   Back when folks assumed this was the end of earth, hence the name.  (Note:  It is also known as Fisterra in the local dialect, Galician or gallego).

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The town of Finisterre from a distance

Many pilgrims who do the Camino, keep going past the end point, the city of Santiago de Compostela.  I did not when I went because the end goal of the Camino, in my book, is entering the Plaza del Obradoiro and then going to Mass at the massive and old Cathedral.

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While 0k for the Camino is in Santiago, this is 0 km too

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Posing with friends – and friendly photobombers!

However, I highly recommend hiking or somehow making it to Finisterre.  I personally loved walking the rugged terrain past the lighthouse.

Fisterra, cape, Finisterre, Atlantic Ocean, ilivetotravel, tourism, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

The Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre

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Water activities abound in the area

Camino, Atlantic Ocean, Finisterre, Fisterra, cape, Spain, Galicia, tradition

Pilgrims leave articles of clothing upon reaching the end of their Camino

It reminded me when I went to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa (check it out here), maybe just a little less spectacular here but impressive nonetheless.

Finisterre, Spain, Camino, The Way, photo, travel lighthouse

Finisterre lighthouse

If you drive from Santiago, there is an inland route, more direct, and a route that hugs the shoreline.  I recommend the latter on the way over to Finisterre so you can see Finisterre from the distance and see the beautiful coastline.  I am sure in other times of the year this coastline is slightly less hospitable but on the beautiful July day I went, it was nothing short of spectacular.  On the way back, we did take the fast route back – and that was fine with me.

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

The Cape (top left) and the town of Finisterre to its right

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

A small coastal town watched over by windmills, a common sight around there

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

Beautiful waters!

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

A small town along the route

Windmill, Finisterre, Fisterra, Galicia, Spain, coastline

Smart to rely on these guys given how windy it is!

On the way over, before getting to the coastline, we stopped at a small village by the Rio Tambre to visit a charming town right of CP-0201, not far from Santiago.  The Ponte Maceira crosses the river into the village and forms part of the Camino as witnessed by the many pilgrims we saw cross it.  The village is graced not only by the bridge but by a chapel, an old mill, and a very approachable riverside.  Definitely a “must stop.”

Ponte Maceira, Rio Tambre, Galicia, Spain, España, old mill, Olympus, travel, photo

Pilgrims crossing the Ponte Maceira (Maceira Bridge)

Ponte Maceira, Rio Tambre, Galicia, Spain, España, old mill, Olympus, travel, photo

The Rio Tambre

Ponte Maceira, Rio Tambre, Galicia, Spain, España, old mill, Olympus, travel, photo

The village by the bridge

Ponte Maceira, Rio Tambre, Galicia, Spain, España, old mill, Olympus, travel, photo

The old mill and an approach to the river

The only bummer for my visit was that there was a small festival (for the Feast of St. James) going on near the Cape and we could not stop.  I would have so loved to eat fresh seafood and mingle with the locals.  I hear any of the towns along the shore will have incredible fresh seafood.  I believe it!

If you do have time to explore the area, don’t just go to the cape.  Not that it is overly touristy or that it isn’t spectacular, but there are other parts of the coast that are well worth exploring.  The Rias Baixas (which you may know if you know Spanish wine…), just south of Finisterre, are a series of estuaries/inlets from the Atlantic Ocean that create a mini-ecosystem rich in marine life and with many beaches and water activities, a magnet for tourists from Spain.  While certainly not the French Riviera, it also lacks the over-touristed ambience of places like that, making it more relaxed.  So, give yourself an extra day or two and enjoy Finisterre and all that the area around it offers in the region of Galicia!

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

Beautiful coastline

Finisterre, Fisterra, Spain, sea, ocean, travel, photo, Galicia

More of the coastline

Doing the Camino to Finisterre (or driving to it!) should make it to your travel board!!

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Santiago de Compostela: Food, Charm, and “New” Family

15 January 2015 by 4 Comments

I wrote earlier about my arrival in Santiago de Compostela as a Camino pilgrim and the activities related to the end of the pilgrimage (getting the Compostela certificate, Pilgrims’ Mass, etc.).  Though my stay in Santiago was brief (less than 24 hours due to needing to bring the group back to Madrid), there were some noteworthy things to share about my brief second visit to this incredible city in northwest Spain‘s Galicia…

Food

As ANYWHERE in Spain, food is spectacular.  In Santiago, I had a quick lunch at a local tapas bar before going to meet relatives.  I love tapas bars.  These are not the unreasonable facsimiles in many U.S. cities that offer tapas.  I loved sitting at the bar and looking at the tapas on display (salivating at, to be more accurate) and then making my choices.  That and an adult beverage made for a quick and delicious lunch.

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A splendid array

tapas, food, foodporn, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Galicia, Olympus

One of many had…

Later that evening, after dinner with my group, a couple of us took off in a chase for some hot chocolate and “churros” (fried sticks of dough and sugar; a favorite of mine from my childhood).  Let me tell you, this hot chocolate is not of the watery style.  It is THICK – and delicious.

churros, hot chocolate, food, foodporn, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Galicia, Samsung Galaxy

Churros and hot chocolate – the real reason the pilgrims came!

Great vibe to the town – charming architecture and streets

The great Cathedral of Santiago is not the only main architectural piece in this city.  I love its side streets with or without arcades and the many small and big plazas all around.  In fact, it is the whole town, not just the Cathedral or the plaza in front of it that is a World Heritage Site!

Plaza de Platerias, south facade, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Hanging out at Praza de Platerías along the south face of the Cathedral

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University building facing the north side of the Cathedral

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I ate at this café called Dakar 20 years before!

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Small plaza and cafés near the Cathedral

The grand plaza in front of the Cathedral is named Praza do Obradoiro, which best I know means plaza of the workshop.  It is large and pretty plain except for the buildings around it:  the Cathedral, a palace, and a hostel built by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand, back in 1492!

Plaza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, architecture, travel,photo, Canon EOS Rebel, arcade

Entering Praza do Obradoiro from the northeast corner

Plaza do Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, architecture, travel,photo, Catholic Monarchs, inn, Olympus

The inn built by the Catholic Monarchs, now a parador

Plaza del Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela, Spain, España, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Looking around the Praza do Obradoiro – Rajoy Palace

From here, once can admire the façade of the Cathedral (which was undergoing repairs/restoration) and then go into town in any number of directions.  The site of the Cathedral has been the site of a church since the 9th century.  Construction of the current church began in 1075 (!) and the church was consecrated in 1211 – THAT is patience!  Of course, it has been added to in the many centuries since.  It looks like a massive complex.

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, façade, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

The massive west façade of the Cathedral

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Olympus

Looking closer at the main façade ‘s exposed towers

Praza do Obradoiro, Cathedral, west facade,Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain, World Heritage Site, travel, photo, architecture, Canon EOS Rebel

Detail of the Cathedral from the side

We stayed at a monastery-seminary called Hospedería San Martín Pinario next to the Cathedral but not within the Praza do Obradoiro – great location!  The rooms, as can be expected, are spartan but clean and functional.  Aside of the massive size of the building, I was surprised at the VERY wide hallways.  I wonder why they made them like that?!

Hospederia San Martin, Santiago de Compostela, hotel, seminary, monastery, travel, photo, Olympus, spartan

Room at the Hospedería

Hospederia San Martin, Santiago de Compostela, hotel, seminary, monastery, travel, photo, Olympus, spartan

One of the massive hallways, this one in the lobby

And the family connection

I mentioned meeting relatives earlier.  The story behind that is that my great-grandfather was born right outside of Santiago in a rural village named Bastavales (made famous in Spain in a song).  I had visited the hamlet 20 years earlier but, unprepared and not having a car, I got to see the church where he likely was baptized and walked past houses in which he and other relatives likely lived.  Years later, I made contact with the parish to see about getting a copy of the records of his baptism, etc. and got some good information, courtesy of the local priest.  I guess he told some of my great-grandfather’s local relatives about my inquiries – years later they reached out to me and we got to meet by letters, email and a phone call.  So, I made it my purpose to go meet them in this trip.  After the tapas lunch, I headed to a house in Bastavales using a taxi.  Back in 1994, I had taken a bus and had taken a while.  Now, with a brand new highway, it took about 15 minutes to get there.  Sweet.

It was really neat to meet one of my grandmother’s younger cousins (only two were alive at this point; my grandmother had been born in Cuba and never got to go to Spain so she never met any of her Spanish relatives), a lovely lady with blue eyes named Flora.

family, Bastavales

My grandmother’s cousin and her granddaughter (my 3rd cousin?)

I also met one of her sons and two of her grandchildren.  She shared some family history and showed me some photos.  Also, she pointed at a distance at the house where my great-grandfather had been born.  I only had a couple of hours to spare and they did not have a car readily available so I had to be satisfied with having seen the house from a distance.  I also saw the church I had visited 20 years earlier and noticed that I had walked in front of the houses she was pointing to after I got off the bus and walked a few kilometers to get to the church…

vines, green, Bastavales, Galicia, Spain, photo, Olympus

The side garden of their house has vines! Beautiful spot

wine press, Bastavales, vineyard, Galicia, Spain, photo, travel, wood, Olympus

Showing me the old wine press they used to use – pretty cool!

This week some other relatives have contacted me and have sent me photos they scanned of my grandmother.  Apparently, she kept in touch with them (though her dad died in Cuba when she was a toddler) and sent them pictures of her as a young woman.  They actually sent me a copy of the little “souvenir” with her baby picture issued when she was baptized; her dad must have sent it to Spain!  I realized with the info they gave me that she had been sending pictures and writing to them because her grandparents were still alive.  I was glad to hear she had some contact with them.

——————————————————————————————————————————

This was a special way to end the Camino:  a pilgrimage to meet relatives my grandmother never met. I love Santiago de Compostela and now I must return to meet these other relatives that have given me such a wonderful gift.  And this will give me more time to explore Santiago more and keep enjoying tapas, hot chocolate and churros!

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On the Camino de Santiago: Day 7 from Lavacolla to Santiago!

12 January 2015 by 9 Comments

The big day arrived on Day 7.  On this day, we departed on the Camino for the last time as we left lovely Pazo Xan Xordo to enter Santiago de Compostela as many have done over the last 1,000 years on this ancient pilgrimage for the final 2.5 hours of our trek.  We were excited but were also on a schedule as we needed to arrive on-time to attend Pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela at noon.  Since this Mass gets packed, we wanted to be there at minimum 30 minutes in advance.  We wanted to sit on the nave on the side of the altar in case they used the “botafumeiro.”  They did not, to our great disappointment, but if they had, it would have flown right over us!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

Waiting for Pilgrim’s Mass to start

Monte de Gozo

But I get ahead of myself.  So we left Lavacolla sharp at 8 AM and made one stop at the impressive Monte de Gozo on the outskirts of town.  It was from this vantage point that pilgrims would get their first glimpse of the final destination.  “Gozo” means happiness which is exactly what the pilgrims would feel at this point after so many months/years of hiking their way across Europe and Spain.  I was more impressed by the monument built here and taking pictures of the sun showing through the top of the monument.

Monte de Gozo, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

The monument at Monte de Gozo

Monte de Gozo, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Each side of the monument commemorates something different

Monte de Gozo, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Loved catching the sun through the glass cross

The great arrival in Santiago de Compostela

At some point in the walk (I think it was on a big downhill), we stopped being “outside” of Santiago and entered the outlying sectors of the city.

Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

One of the last villages we passed before entering Santiago proper (after Monte de Gozo)

We crossed a long bridge over a highway and we felt like this was the final stretch.  OK, it was a long final stretch and we did stop at a café to make a final pit stop and to get a snack (not sitting down).  We knew once we hit Santiago, we were likely not going to get a break until noon Mass ended so this was a smart choice!

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Welcome to Santiago de Compostela!

As we got closer, it seemed the streets got narrower which kept making us more eager to finally get there.  I was eager to see the reaction of my fellow trekkers when they first saw the Cathedral (I had been there in 1994 already).

Getting the Compostela and Pilgrim’s Mass

Our plan was to hit town and immediately head to the Pilgrim’s Office (on rua Vilar) to get our “Compostela,” the certificate granted to those who complete the Camino.  A nice volunteer from Ireland named (of course) Mary helped English speakers with instructions to be ready to step inside and get the Compostela; a few questions were asked and the credencial (passport) was briefly examined.

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Pilgrims filling out their papers while waiting for their Compostela

It was an exhilarating moment to get the Compostela (after standing in line about 25 minutes) even if I briefly embarrassed myself by telling the lady that she had gotten my first name wrong.  She politely told me that they write the first name in Latin not in its regular form…  As soon as I got to the hotel later, I took photos of the Compostela just in case something happened to it on the rest of the trip!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

The big moment of getting the Compostela!

We had been told we could not take our backpacks in for Mass so we then proceeded to drop off our backpacks next to the Pilgrim’s Office for 2 euros.  We then were free to make our way to the Cathedral but, first, we took quick group and individual photos in the Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral.

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, Trekking for Kids, photo, Olympus

Our Trekking for Kids group posing in front of the Cathedral

We then moved in to claim our spots for Mass and we took turns while we waited for the start of Mass to go behind the main altar to see the tomb of Santiago (St. James), after all, all this started because of him!

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

Another detail of the interior

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, St. James' tomb, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

St. James’ tomb

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, photo, Olympus

Details from inside the Cathedral

Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Plaza del Obradoiro, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, altar, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

A side altar

During Mass, in the part where they greet the pilgrims, they mention groups by name.  I had told them at the Pilgrim’s Office that we were a group, Trekking for Kids, from the U.S. and Canada and it was neat to hear us greeted during Mass.

We had heard that because 2014 was the 800th anniversary of St. Francis doing the Camino, the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis), not far from the Cathedral was issuing another certificate to pilgrims (the “Cotolaya“) so we went later that day to claim it (at this point, we would have taken any certificate issued to pilgrims, I think!).

Church of San Francisco, St. Francis, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Walking towards the Church of San Francisco (St. Francis)

Church of San Francisco, St. Francis, Santiago de Compostela, Camino, The Way, pilgrimage, Spain, España, Espagne, travel, trekking, hiking, photo, Olympus

Main altar at the Church of San Francisco

So our week-long trek along this millennial pilgrimage came to a glorious end.  It was a unique experience and I loved returning to Santiago de Compostela of which I will write some more in another post.  I have some suggestions for those considering the Camino.  Keep an eye out for that post!

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Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

– Day 4

– Day 5

– Day 6

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

On the Camino de Santiago: Day 6 from Salceda to Lavacolla

5 January 2015 by 2 Comments

Day 6 saw our last full day of our walk along the Camino de Santiago as Day 7 would be a short day.  Day 6’s walk took about 5 hours (perhaps about 18 km) not including our lunch stop at Amenal.  I felt both excited at getting close to the finish line and also a little bit sad that the end was so close.  We left the hotel (and our luggage) in Salceda after a good breakfast and walked a few minutes to get back on the Camino.  Along the way, I had been collected the needed stamps on my “credenciales” (pilgrim’s passport); these are required to be able to get the “Compostela” certificate upon arrival at the offices in Santiago de Compostela.

Camino de Santiago, passport,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The pilgrim’s “passport” (credenciales) that you must stamp every day

Camino de Santiago, passport, pilgrim,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Proudly showing my stamped “credenciales” (or pilgrim’s passport)

Sights along the Camino

As usual, our way was a mix of fields of flowers, small forests, farms, and churches.  And the ever present signs pointing the way.  Here are a few of the images from this day in our trek.Camino de Santiago, nature, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Camino de Santiago, yellow flowers, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Beautiful field of yellow

Camino de Santiago, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Camino de Santiago, flowers, hydrangea,hortensia, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Canon EOS Rebel

Hydrangeas were popular along the way

Camino de Santiago, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Just keep following the signs…

Camino de Santiago, church, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Church

Camino de Santiago, church, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Camino de Santiago, church, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Cemetery

An amazing place to stay:  Pazo Xan Xordo

Once we got to Lavacolla, a stone’s throw from Santiago’s airport actually, we walked a little bit to get to our lodging for the night:  Pazo Xan Xordo.  We were wowed by this 17th century home and farm with its own chapel and beautiful gardens.  This place was a real dream!

Camino de Santiago, hotel,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Pazo Xan Xordo and its front patio

Camino de Santiago, church, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Chapel near the front entrance of Pazo Xan Xordo

Camino de Santiago, church, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The inside of the chapel

It also has a small restaurant but it was not open for dinner so our host dropped us off and picked us back up for dinner in town, where we celebrated being so close to finishing with a great dinner and a dessert I had not had, but seen often, yet:  ice cream cake!

Camino de Santiago, restaurant,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The final dinner on the trail (in Lavacolla)!

Camino de Santiago, ice cream cake, dessert,Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

The ice cream cake

A perfect ending to another great day along the Camino!

Camino de Santiago, Lavacolla, Spain, España, Espagne, trekking, hiking, pilgrimage, travel, photo, outdoors, Olympus

Yours truly

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Read more about my Camino:

– Day 1

– Day 2

– Day 3

– Day 4

– Day 5

…

– Day 7

Filed Under: Camino de Santiago, Europe, Hiking, Spain, Travel Journal Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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