Glacier Mountain National Park: St. Mary and Virginia Falls

Glacier Mountain National Park in Montana is known as the “Crown of the Continent.”  And it is rightly so called:  it is peaceful, magnificent, and elegant.  One of the funnest hikes in the park is hiking to St. Mary Falls and Virginia Falls right by the edge of St. Mary Lake, one of the two main lakes in the most visited part of the park.

St. Mary Lake is on the eastern side of the park, at the eastern end of the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, by the small town of St. Mary.  GTTS Road, as it is colloquially known, is one of the absolute must-dos to enjoy the Glacier Mountain park’s majesty.  Driving along the lake going westward from the park’s main entrance is by itself an enjoyable experience.  As you drive west, the lake will be on your left with majestic mountains as the backdrop – which makes for many great photo opportunities.  There are numerous spots to pull off the road to admire the beauty and/or take pictures (don’t snap and drive!).  Depending on the time of day, the light will be different.  If you have the luxury of seeing it at different times of the day (especially early-early AM or late/late afternoon), do so!  I got to drive GTTS Road both in the mid/late-afternoon and in the early morning, and loved the difference sunrise vs. pre-sunset made in the scenery.

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Looking west towards a mid-afternoon cloud-covered sky

Once we got to the western end of the lake (about 10 miles from the park entrance), we pulled in to the parking area to take us to St. Mary Falls.  This parking lot was between the St. Mary Falls shuttle stop and the Sunrift Gorge shuttle stop.  If you are taking the park’s red shuttle, you can start the hike from either of those stops as there are trailheads next to them.

Our plan was to hike 1.2 miles to get to St. Mary Falls (4,560 ft altitude).  Then we would go a little further (an additional 0.7 miles) to reach Virginia Falls which sits higher at around 4,800 ft.  If you are of average fitness, you are likely able to go all the way to Virginia Falls.  If you feel you can handle the climb, you will likely agree that it is worth going that much further and higher to see Virginia Falls.  In the end, it is not a long hike, really.montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

While bears are in their natural habitat anywhere in the park, this particular trail is well-trodden by people so, hopefully, the noise of people talking keeps them from approaching the trail.  Just be on the lookout and carry your bear spray in a spot where you can quickly access it.  There is no better way to keep yourself safe than to be proactive in looking out for your safety!

Hiking to St. Mary Falls

Along the way you can admire mountains that rise upwards of 8,000 ft in altitude (on a trail where your max altitude is about 4,800 ft).  Pay attention to the signage as (from the parking lot we started from) there are a couple of junctions that could take you to different places.

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One of the junctions

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Once we were far enough along, all of a sudden we saw a river (St. Mary) and then heard the sound of the waterfall.

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The bridge is the sign of the destination!

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St Mary River downstream from the same-named falls

Pretty soon we saw the wooden bridge placed in front of the waterfalls and, as we turned a bend, got to the bridge so we could see the waterfalls.  The waterfalls has three levels though two of them are the most eye-catching of the trio.

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St. Mary Falls

Hiking on to Virginia Falls

Once you are done enjoying St. Mary Falls continue the trail on the other side of the bridge.  The terrain gets a little more difficult to get to Virginia Falls.  We were excited to see a waterfall but realized that was not Virginia Falls. montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park, waterfall

The trail got steeper but, thankfully, the scenery made it all worth it.  I don’t think you have to be an athlete to do this hike as long as you are generally in good health.  Feel free to stop and snap photos – it gives you a little rest and there are definitely a couple of spots where one should step and just soak it all in.

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Can’t pass on snapping a photo in front of the beautiful landscape!

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The best spot to do that is actually the foot of Virginia Falls.  But wait.  You will see Virginia Falls from a vantage point where you can appreciate them from a distance.  But that’s not what I am calling the “foot” of the falls.

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The first sighting of Virginia Falls

There is a view point a short distance up from that one.  It is worth dealing with the trail which, if it is wet, can be a tad slippery.

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Keep on going!

That view offers a flat rocky area with plenty of space to get close enough to the waterfalls – you can feel the spray on you.  It is much more impressive than St. Mary Falls partly for its size but also the setting of the spot.

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Amazing!

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What do you think???  Of the scenery, NOT of my video-ing skills!

This short hike (about 4 miles round trip) can be added to by visiting nearby Baring Falls which requires going almost all the way back and, at one of the aforementioned junctions, make a different turn (unless you park at Sun Point Nature Trail in which case you will pass Baring Falls on your way to St. Mary Falls).  After seeing St. Mary and Virginia Falls, we felt it was unlikely Baring would impress us.  I wish I had seen it just to know for sure but it was time to call it a day!

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The reward after a nice hike is looking back west across St. Mary Lake as one follows GTTS Road

Gear for Climbing Kilimanjaro | Clothing

Planning my hike of Mount Kilimanjaro and the subsequent safari (check out my visit to Serengeti) in Tanzania was not an easy task.  From every angle, it felt daunting.  How to train, what clothing I would need, what items I needed to bring, what constraints we had with bag weight, and on and on.  It is not easy to sift through all the considerations on the gear for climbing Kilimanjaro, especially the clothing.  Some good work is required!

Research is key in planning your gear for climbing Kilimanjaro

Good research was key and I figured that would be the case from the get-go.  That research took many forms.  Talking to people who have hiked Kili.  Reading blogs or websites about hiking it.  Talking to the great folks at REI. And working through the list and advice given to me by the trek organizer (Trekking for Kids) – which was outstanding.  In the end, I still had many decisions to make on what felt could be important things to add to my packing list for hiking Kilimanjaro and the subsequent safari.  Fortunately, I was well armed with information and advice.

This post is geared to those contemplating climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Or perhaps those just interested in reading about what people wear when they climb Kilimanjaro!  In any case, reaching Kilimanjaro’s peak, Uhuru Peak, is an adventure that requires both cold and hot weather gear. This is so because the mountain has just about every climate zone possible in its 19,340 ft.

I will attempt, as an amateur, to share over a couple of posts what made it to my packing list and how it helped.  This post will focus on clothing (I share in a separate post the key non-clothing items to bring – and why!).  If you are reading this and planning a similar trek, please feel free to leave any questions as comments and I will reply and try to help.  In addition, should you have other suggested items or even better suggestions than mine, please share!  There are more ways to skin a cat than one!

Some details about my gear recommendations

Before I move on to my recommendations for the clothing packing list, a few key items to note:

  • I went on safari after the hike concluded (I highly recommend this!  You are ALREADY there!) so I also include in my packing list things needed for the safari which is mostly regular stuff but just for warm weather.
  • Kili has multiple climate zones ranging from hot to extreme cold – this requires understanding how much of what to bring and your own preferences.
  • I am not laying out all the options possible, especially in clothing, as this post would be five times long and no one would read it, but will share what all the advice led me to choose – happy to answer any questions you may have.
  • I did write about my 7 top items to take on this hike.  It was a high-level view of the question and written before I went on the trip (whereas this one was written with the first-hand knowledge of having completed the trip).  This post will get into more details.
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Clothing – Lower Body

Let’s take it from the bottom of the body upwards.

  • Hiking boots – Get good hiking boots AND do your practice hikes using them so you break them in well.  Otherwise you may suffer more during the hike, including dreadful blisters.  Some folks opted for shoes that were more like hiking shoes.  However, I prefer the safety of the ankle support since I am bound to get sloppy when tired.  Sloppiness raises the risk of twisting my ankle and ruining the rest of the hike.  The following are a couple of boots that read well from the product descriptions.  Mine were REI waterproof hiking boots from a long-time ago so no image at Amazon for them.  Study these and their features, and keep in mind that waterproof and comfort reign supreme in terms of choosing boots. Regardless of where you purchase them, make sure you know whether you can try them out and return them if you, once you have tried them out, decide they are not for you.  That’s a great way to be sure to have the right footwear.  Your footwear will be your key ally those days of being on your feet.  (The two shown here represent two different price points to contrast the options.)

Sample 1Merrell Men’s Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot

Sample 2Columbia Men’s North Plains Ii Waterproof Mid Hiking Boot

  • Gaiters – These items help keep mud and scree from doing a number on you by getting into your footwear and becoming a major nuisance.  You will need gaiters during the summit night climb for sure and, more than likely, on the first day if it has rained recently (it had not when we got started, so I did not need them that day).  You do not really need knee-high ones in my opinion; something to cover the possible gap between the bottom of your pants and the top of your boots is sufficient for the one or two times you will use them.  I would say not the most critical of the items but nice to have.
  • Socks – The socks needed for the hike and the ones needed for the safari were of very different kinds.  For the latter, you may not need to be told what to get (anything that helps keep the foot dry is always better than plain cotton but you won’t die if you wear cotton ones; just be more sweaty).  But for the hike, I highly recommend you use a liner to wick moisture away from your feet and then woolen socks over them.  Wetness is a contributing factor (not the main one perhaps) to blisters.  For summit night or other colder days, you will be well advised to have a pair of VERY thick woolen socks.  I was still a little cold in my feet even with the sturdiest of these on summit night – the part of it that I had any awareness…  I understand that our summit night was not the coldest night possible by a bit so, if it can be colder and I was cold with very thick woolen socks, I hate to know how bad it can feel on my feet!
  • Pants
    • A rainproof outer shell was a must to avoid getting soaked if it rained.  However, this outer layer does not need to keep you warm (I used under-layers to handle the cold).  The outer shell is about rain and, also, wind.  I got a hard shell (you can get a soft shell instead if you want).  A key feature I found most helpful are the side long zippers (ankle to hip) that enable you to very quickly put them on (as in, when rain starts all of a sudden…) – a breeze!  Bottom line on these:  windproof and waterproof.
    • When I was not using the outer shell (which was most of the time), I just used my hiking pants as the exterior layer.  I would highly recommend zip-off (convertible) hiking pants for quick adaptability:  if it gets too hot during the day, you don’t have the “do-I-want-to-go-through-the-hassle-of-taking-off-my-boots-to-change-into-shorts?”-type of dilemma…  But it also saved packing both long pants and shorts 🙂  Read through all the details of these and others you may find (all sorts of price points!).  The convertible hiking pants shown don’t need to be anything fancy:  comfortable and with the amount of pockets you feel you want in the right places (and with buttons, Velcro or zippers on them per your preferences).  Basic worked fine for me!

     

Sample Hiking PantsColumbia Boy’s Silver Ridge III Convertible Pants
Sample Outer ShellMarmot Men’s PreCip Full Zip Pant Shell

  • Base layer for the legs – Base layers (long leggings) made from merino wool (the best) are important to stay warm.  This layer, given the material, will also keep odors from building up.  This characteristic makes them re-usable for more than one day. Added benefit:  cut down on what needs to be carried on the flights to/from Africa and by the porters.  You can use polypropylene for this layer but I heard merino wool just performs better.  On summit day, you may need two layers of base layer.  I wore two under the hiking pants and then the hard shell on the outside.  Before the trip, I was consistently told that silk is about the best material to help retain warmth next to the skin.  I was surprised when I heard that.  I just happened to have this pair of silk leggings but, once on Tanzania, our lead guide told me to use the two merino layers I had instead of the silk pair and one merino pair.  It worked well enough for me on summit night!
  • Shorts for safari – I wore shorts during the safari (the zip-off hiking pants and an extra pair) but I also did wear my full hiking pants to better protect me from the sun (and bugs, I suppose).  Of course, shorts will also be things you wear in the evening or when exploring towns.

Clothing – Upper Body

  • Base layer– The upper body layering approach is much like the lower body’s.  I used base layers for the colder days – again merino wool.  (Usually one, but two on summit night!)  For lower altitudes, a regular long sleeve CoolMax type of shirt.  As I went up and things got colder, a wool “close-to-the-skin” layer under the CoolMax worked well.  Wool is ideal for skin-contact as it wicks moisture from your skin preventing many things (one of them: smells!).  I show one example below but there are tons from many brands that fit the needs – and varying budgets 😉  Bottom line: no cotton!

Sampletasc Performance Men’s Elevation Ultrafine Soft Merino Lightweight Long Sleeve Shirt

  • Mid layer – I got a merino wool mid-layer to have for the evenings at camps lower than base camp. On summit night, this layer would separate the skin-hugging base layers and the outer layers I will mention next. Tasc‘s Elevation line (of which I show a base layer item above) also has a 1/4 zip hoodie jacket that also combines merino wool with their signature bamboo fiber which may be a great item.  I didn’t have one with a hoodie so I had to wear the regular ski hat if I was cold enough at camp at night. By the way, I am a fan of Tasc‘s regular bamboo fabric t-shirts so I am curious how this one would work.  The Icebreaker item I show below, has the power of one of the best-known and valued brands in terms of quality of merino wool. Normally that means a higher price point.  But this one seems quite reasonable.  Search around when you click through below as they have other versions of the same type of item with some range in price point.  The SmartWool brand, in my short years of serious hiking, has proven to be a good and reliable one.  So theirs is worth reading more about when selecting a mid layer top.  Be wary of items that will themselves as having wool.  A few years ago I clicked on one and it was mostly polyester and only 11% wool.  Always read the product details!!  Note:  An alternative could be a fleece jacket.  There are pros and cons to wool vs. fleece.  One of the main difference is how each performs in keeping you warm when wet (wool is better) and how quickly they dry (fleece is better).  Since I knew I would have the right layers to keep rain off me, then wool was a no-brainer for me.

Sample Mid Layer 1Icebreaker Merino Descender Long Sleeve 1/2 Zip
Sample Mid Layer 2Smartwool Men’s NTS Mid 250 Full Zip T

    • Outer layers –  On the trek, I had an outer hard shell for rain and wind.  I also carried a synthetic down jacket which was great because it was very compact when packed.  I used the latter in the evenings while at camp on cold nights, And, of course, on summit night.  My outer shell was an Arcteryx jacket very much like the one below. Arcteryx is not a cheap brand (I hunted the jacket until I found it on a great sale!) but reading through the item I show below will give you an idea of the features to look for.  Best I can tell, this one is pretty similar from top to bottom to the one I had (except mine was orange).  To keep in mind for summit night:  I used two merino wool base layers, the merino wool light jacket, the hard shell (for wind, not rain), and the synthetic down jacket – which I was not wearing at the beginning of the ascent but which I wore during breaks and once it got too cold even while moving.  It important to plan these well because summit night will be COLD.

Sample Outer ShellArcteryx Alpha SL Jacket

  • Shirts for safari – I had quick-dry short sleeve shirts that also had side vents – very comfortable in warm weather and preventing odors from building up…
  • Head- and neck- gear –  I used different items to cover my head from the cold and from the sun – both very important.  A typical sun hat to protect against the sun (with a rim) was a very good idea.  A skull cap was one of the items I used in cold weather.  In very windy or in rainy conditions, the hood from the hard shell helped a good deal.  I also had a buff which I used when the skull cap seemed like a little much.  In fact, the buff served many purposes, like loosely hanging around my neck to avoid burning up when in the sun.  I also used it to cover my mouth and nose when it got dusty on the trail or in the safari.  Finally, I brought a balaclava for summit night.  It would offer lots of protection with only a small space open to look out.  I could also just use it around my neck (would keep it warmer than the buff would).  So quite a few options!
  • Outer gloves –  You are going to want some extreme gloves! The gloves should be waterproof because you don’t want gloves getting wet where it is cold.  And some good heavy duty insulation (e.g., PrimaLoft). You will still need liners underneath (you would think an extreme glove would be enough…).  My fingertips were still a little cold on summit night even with the liners.  But that eventually passed as I entered “the zone” (read how summit night unfolded)  You also need to decide on the type: mitt or separate-fingers. For that outer layer of gloves, I chose mitt. Plus:  less “surface” exposed to the outside, so keeps more warmth around your fingers. Minus: Lower usability of your fingers since they cannot move independently.  However, the rationale for mitts was that most of the time, I would be holding hiking poles in my hands during the ascent.  For that, the mitt grip worked. Once I wanted to reach for tissues or take a photo, yes, I would have to take the mitts off but that was not a big deal. Even fingered style gloves may have been too thick for some of these motions.
  • Liners – I only used the extreme gloves summit night but the liners I used a lot on the days and evenings prior to summit night.  Maybe bring two pairs of liners of different thicknesses, or one pair of liners and one pair of lighter gloves.  The Grabber hand warmer thingies that generate some heat can be helpful though they do not always seem to generate the same level of heat at high altitude.  Nevertheless, any heat helps so you may want to bring some.

Clothing – sleep time

OK, do I really think you need help with this?  No and yes.  No, because sleep wear is such a personal comfort thing.  But yes because part of it is slightly counter-intuitive.

When you are sleeping in the super-cold weather sleeping bag at night at the higher altitudes and on colder nights, the less you wear, THE BETTER.  No, no, nothing kinky about that statement.  Simply the interior of the super-cold weather sleeping bag will make you feel your own body heat warming you as it leaves your body.  So the more clothing you wear, the less your body heat will work with the sleeping bag to keep you warm.

Other than that, keep the jackets, pants, etc. close to the sleeping bag.  Because when you wake up in the middle of the night to relieve yourself (and, trust me, you WILL if you are taking Diamox), you will need to put those on because you will not be able to go outside in your “sleepwear”!

ilivetotravel Shira Camp with Mt. Kilimanjaro Olympus camera

A happy if tired hiker by his tent and the roof of Africa!  Wearing the merino wool mid layer and the synthetic down jacket.

Can I help you any more with planning your packing list?

So, this is the run-down of the clothing items I’d include in any packing list for a hike of Kilimanjaro.  The items shared here are the things I obtained and used on the hike (and on the subsequent safari).  I have to say my planning paid off.  These items served me very well.  Others may have different additional suggestions on what to add to the list of things to bring to hike Kili.  I hope they will share those here!

Finally, I hope if you were not considering hiking Kili or were uncertain, check out my other posts on the topic (see below) and know that it is fairly attainable with good training and preparation!

Disclosure:  I am not being paid or in any way compensated by the brands whose wares I discuss in this post.  While I would love to sample their products and review them, that is not the case in this post.  I just want to show good samples of the types of items I’d consider.

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Other related posts that you may want to check out!

 

Camino Packing and Training Tips

The Camino de Santiago has become a very popular destination/experience for many around the world, especially after the movie “The Way” hit the movies screens and as more people do it.  People of all ages and nationalities gravitate to this, as did I and a group I traveled with last summer to hike the Camino.  So far, I have written about each of our 7 days in a series of posts (start here with Day 1). But I’d thought I’d devote some time to sharing Camino packing and training tips.

While this is not an exhaustive treatise on each of the topics, it should give you a good high-level understanding on training.  I hope it also helps you develop a good packing list with what to wear and items you will need.  Please feel free to ask questions or suggest your own tips via the comments section below.

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How fast can you do the Camino de Santiago

How strenuous the day is on the Camino de Santiago depends on how much ground you plan to cover on a given day.  If you are young (read: in your 20s or early 30s), you likely think you can attack the Camino and do over 20 miles a day, perhaps 30.  That’s crazy talk.  Yes, you physically may be able to but a couple of things:

1.  After a couple of days of pushing this way, your body will let you know how crazy that was.  I have heard the horror stories.  Don’t be over-ambitious.

2.  More importantly, you are missing the point of the Camino.  Yes, getting to the destination is the “aim.”  But the point is to be on a journey, a pilgrimage (whether spiritual or emotional).  Moving at the speed of sound renders this experience as just checking an item off the bucket list.  Which, if it is all it is for you, then fast speed might as well be your friend because you will get bored not seeing it as an experience for such a long way.  No judgment here, just saying that soaking it in is probably best.

The answer to this question could also depend on how much of the Camino are you planning to cover.  I only had a week and had to do the minimum distance to get the Compostela (the famous certificate granted to provide pilgrims with proof that they did indeed make it to Santiago de Compostela).  Therefore, I had to make sure I covered the distance.  Yet, I had enough time to sit for leisurely lunches and also not have to wake up at the crack of dawn.  I’d peg my speed at the mid-point with my max distance on a given day around 12-14 miles.

How to train to do the Camino

Let’s start the packing and training tips for doing the Camino with the latter.  The Camino is not Everest Base Camp or Mt. Kilimanjaro but that does not mean it is easy.  The challenges posed by the Camino are different than those epic climbs.  While altitude is a factor in those hikes, that is not the case with the Camino.

The mountains or hills faced in the Camino will not compare to hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or getting to Uhuru Peak in Mt. Kilimanjaro.  But if you walk more than the minimum distance required to get the Compostela, you will need to prepare for some good climbs.  And the corresponding downhills (always fun on the delicate knees of a hiker…).

The final factor to keep in mind is that while there may not be tons of steep hills nor altitude, this hike puts a lot of stress on your feet.  When I climbed Kilimanjaro, the distances walked on a given day were well in the single-digits in terms of miles (maybe it got to double digits in kilometer-land).  Yes, it was difficult due to low oxygen and steepness but it was not brutal on my feet.  Don’t get me wrong, when I would arrive at camp, I was desperate to take off my boots!  But the Camino is much more unforgiving when it comes to your feet.  They take a beating, so make sure they keep on ticking.

What to consider to build your Camino packing list

Before I get into the key items for your Camino packing list, clearly whether you are carrying all your stuff on your back or not makes a big difference.  Yes, there is an option to NOT carry it all yourself from place to place!  Now, that may not be your style and all that, and that’s OK.  But, for some, it is the way to go and it was for me 🙂

Regardless of how you do it, I will still issue the same warning:  don’t over-pack.  You will be amazed at how little you can get by with.  A lot less than you think.  And worst comes to worst, you can go to a local store along the way and buy what you need…

But I also say that because going on this journey, in my view, is about changing some parameters about our lives.  Develop new insights, clear our heads, have new experiences, and -hopefully- be renewed in whatever way we may need to.  So, with all that said, here are some things that I deemed important to take along my Camino…

What to pack for the Camino

Feet

  • Good walking shoes or boots.  Without good shoes that you have broken in BEFORE the Camino, you will be in trouble.  Don’t be cheap about this item.  Cheap out on the camera or other items but not on this, my friends!  These could be boots or walking shoes.  The former gives you better ankle protection.  The latter may feel more comfortable.  You may want both to alternate.  After many days of wearing the same show, you may long for a different pair…  Up to you (as are all the tips I share here!).  Certainly, I would say, get waterproof in case it rains.

  • Along with the shoes, go non-cotton socks.  What good is a pair of proper and broken in walking shoes if you are going to just slap on cotton socks?  Cotton socks are an invitation for blisters and the painful fun that means for the few days after you develop them.  Wool socks and, ideally, liners complete the most important focus of your gear list:  your feet.
  • Now, if the socks and shoes don’t do it and a blister seems imminent (sometimes blisters just develop…), you must quickly take action to prevent the blister from materializing. At that point, you want to protect the spot where you are beginning to feel the burning (which is exactly what you feel BEFORE the blister arrives). The simplest and cheapest solution is to place a small piece of duct tape on that spot on your foot. Yes, stop, take footwear off and apply the small patch of duct tape – don’t wait.  So duct tape is a must-carry on any hike with the added side benefit that you can repair other things with it as needed. But don’t carry the roll, for goodness’ sake! Wrap duct tape on a pencil or on your hiking pole and you will save space and weight.
  • In case things go too far and you develop a blister, a blister repair kit is a good idea to bring along.  I was the beneficiary of a fellow’s trekker blister “repair” kit coming down Kilimanjaro and became a believer.  I don’t recall the brand I used on the Camino but the item below is the one I bought for my next hike in Patagonia.

Clothing

Now we can get past all things feet.  From a clothing standpoint, the usual advice applies here.

  • Layers.  The weather can vary and some high spots can get very cold.  And depending on the time of year, it could get quite warm during the day.  So plan to have layers which help manage the changes you may experience throughout the day.
  • Waterproof.  At some point, you may encounter rain so you want proper rain gear which might as well also serve as wind-breaking gear.  In terms of things to wear, make sure it is really waterproof (Gore-Tex). Waterproof also refers to protecting the contents of your backpack, whether by placing a bag over your backpack or putting the contents of your backpack in plastic bags.  Your choice!
  • Wicking.  Since you may not be carrying one-for-every-day in the underwear category and to help your skin remain “un-irritated”, wicking underwear is a good idea.  It removes humidity before sweat covers your skin which prevents bad odors.  And, hence, should you decide to wear them more than once between washings, then at least you know you will not smell!  Because my hike was only 7 days, I had underwear for every day but I still used wicking underwear for the comfort of not developing chaffing, etc.

  • Temperatures.  Plan for a range of temperatures.  This ties to the layers bit but also realize that, at night when you are not hiking, you may want to sit outdoors and it may get chilly at night, even in the summer depending on the weather system on a given day in your area.  So some light jacket in the summer may be appropriate for the evenings; perhaps more substantial at other times of the year
  • Comfort.  Be sure the materials you wear are comfortable to you.  During 6-8 hours of hiking, you want to be comfortable not itching or something else.  When you get to the next town, you WILL want those walking shoes off and will love slipping into some flip flops, sandals or running shoes or whatever other comfortable footwear you like.  Bring only one of those, no need to overdo it, but allow yourself this luxury!  (Flip flops could be handy to shower in communal showers if that’s your accommodation style!)

Miscellaneous

  • Hunger avoidance devices (read: snacks).  You will not hungry on this trek!  Plenty of places to stop and get a snack or a meal at very reasonable prices.  Carrying two boxes of protein or granola bars is wasted weight and space and, more importantly, keeping you from sampling local foods and snacks.  So, just carry what you buy locally or just stop along the way!
  • A camera!  You can certainly opt for a different kind of travel if you are not drawn to capturing memories in this manner.  Journaling, for example, may be a better way for some.  For yours truly, though, the imagery of a place not only captures my attention but is also a way I use to be able to share what I experience.  Along with this go the requisite battery charger or extra batteries and an appropriate number of SD cards 🙂  I do like the wifi SD card which allows me to transfer photos out of my SD card onto another device (good for backup or to clear memory on the SD card).
  • Toiletries and accessories.  Yep, you know what this list is about (toothbrush, deodorant, etc.) so no need to detail it nor give you too much advice.  But I will call out some things…  First, bring travel-sized items.  Second, see how much stuff you can live without.  Do you really need a hair dryer?  (No judgment implied!)  Finally, some items I will recommend…  Some hand lotion/moisturizer is a good idea.  Chapstick is a must.  Also, some antibacterial liquid (e.g., Purell) is a must along,  Finally, add wipies to the list but no need to bring more than a handful per day, actually.
  • First aid.  While there are kits out there, I just go with common sense and practical.  There are drug stores and the like in the towns you will pass so no need to overdo it.  Some band-aids, some anti-diarrhea meds in case you can’t make it to them town (no one had troubles of this sort in our group), some anti-inflammatory in case something hurts (knees, for example), and the like should make a good kit.  As a packing tip, I used ziploc bags that are half of the regular sandwich bag to pack meds.  This eliminated the need to carry bottles which can occupy more space.  Whether you want to get Cipro (digestive system antibiotic), Ambien (to sleep) or anything else, it is up to you and your doctor.  I took none of those meds though I take Cipro when I go to some destinations.  Of course, if you are taking prescription drugs, bring those and write down somewhere the main ingredient (vs. the medication name).  If something happens and you need to get more locally, the main ingredient is what you need.
  • Night light.  If you will be sleeping in shared accommodations, this comes in handy to minimize disrupting others’ sleep and/or preventing you from tripping in the middle of the night as you make a night run to the restroom 🙂  I prefer headlamps like this one so I can be “hands-free”; please don’t make me explain why 🙂

  • Backpack.  Please, whatever you do, do not bring a Swiss Army backpack (well-designed as they are for the frequent traveler) or, even worse, your college backpack.  You will be likely carrying more weight than you are used to.  And, I guarantee, that your back and shoulders will appreciate you bringing a backpack with a waist strap and a chest strap to help distribute the impact of the load  on your upper body.  Plus be sure the main straps and the backpack have some padding where they will touch your body.  Remember, it is many days of carrying it so be good to yourself.  And size does matters, when it comes to backpacks.  Will the size you get be able to fit all that you will carry on your back every day?  Remember, if you want the convenience, there are services that every day pick up your luggage and deliver it to the next place you will stay (if you know in advance).  With this option, you only carry what you need during your walk.  Bottom line:  figure out how much you need the backpack to carry (don’t forget to account for the water!) and then choose a size.

  • Backpack cover.  Along with this, have something ready to cover your backpack if it rains.  Trust me, no matter what they say, water will get in if it rains enough (e.g., think of the zippers).  You can buy a backpack cover (some backpacks come with it) or, save money and bring a nice size, good quality trash bag or maybe even just a cheap poncho.  Additionally, a way to prevent stuff getting wet is by packing items in large ziplocs before placing them within your backpack.  Remember that you are on the go and it may not always be easy or possible to dry any items that get wet.

Need any other Camino packing and training tips?

Alright, there is likely more to be said and advice to be given for someone planning their Camino packing and training.  More than likely, I will make some edits in the future.  In the meantime, feel free to share your thoughts, ask questions, etc. in the comments section.  Remember, your questions or suggestions will likely benefit other readers!  And if you want an Excel version of my Camino packing list (with a lot of the smaller items), leave me a comment and I will send to you.

Buen Camino!

Want to see what every day was like?  Click on the day and read on!  Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6 and Day 7


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How Hard Is It to Climb Kilimanjaro?

A few years ago I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa by virtue of being the tallest mountain thereI have written about how I prepared, what I wore for the climb, and how each day was from day 1 to reaching Uhuru Peak (Kili’s summit) to coming down the mountain.  However, one of the things I have not written about directly is one of the questions I commonly get asked:  “how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro?”

I get the question directly but I also it in a different way:  when people look at me like I did an almost impossible feat.  I get that it is not something most people do hence why it is a feat of a kind. But to me there are crazier and/or harder things (it is all relative, isn’t it??).  So I wanted to share a little of my perspective on how hard it is to climb Kili.

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The first time I saw Kili outside of the Honey Badger Lodge – such an amazing mountain!

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A photo shared in my earlier post showing what I took with me (for the climb and subsequent safari)

A bucket list item that never was:  Kilimanjaro

I never planned or thought of climbing Kilimanjaro.  It had never occurred to me even as a fleeting thought.  Nowhere in the radar.  I had barely heard or read of people who had done it.  Nor was I a big hiker to begin with (I had never slept in a tent until my first night on Kili!).  My first multi-day hike ever had been the year before I climbed Kili when I hiked four days in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania with Trekking for Kids (TFK).  This all changed one night at a fundraiser for TFK a few months later.

At this event, folks started egging me on to join them in a few months later on the climb Kilimanjaro with TFK.  I considered the whole idea preposterous. I felt tremendously ill-suited for something so physically demanding.  “Climbing Kilimanjaro is too hard,” I thought.  While I exercise regularly and consider myself to be generally fit, I was not running half marathons (had done it once a dozen years before) nor doing bootcamps a few days a week nor anything of the like.

Climbing Kilimanjaro was for the super athletes of the world.  I was far from being that though I knew I was in slightly better shape than the average person.  But, a lot of cajoling, elbowing, and a couple (or 4) glasses of wine later, I succumbed to friendly group pressure and banter.  I said yes.  In a way, I was feeling excited that I would attempt something so ‘crazy’ and out of my comfort zone (always a good thing to do every now and then).

The next morning I woke up and incredulously remembered the prior night’s events.  I was asking myself why I had agreed to undertake this ludicrous effort instead of politely saying I’d think about it.  Well, I am not one to disappoint so I decided I was going to give it a shot after all.  I decided that not because I thought that I had what it took.  In fact, I thought it would take a LOT of training time I did not have.  Training at altitude I also did not have easy access to.  And requiring plenty more hiking experience at altitude or not that I did not possess…

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Ready to start the climb – clean, well-prepared, and eager!

Getting ready for climbing Kilimanjaro

A million questions started swirling in my head once I accepted I was indeed going to stick to this.  SO many question!  How do I best prepare?  What do I need to bring with me?  What do I need to wear to deal with the cold?  Can I do anything to improve my chances at the doing well under exertion?  Can I do anything to help me be ready for the high altitude?  What did I need to know in terms of my personal safety?  How much was it going to cost me when it was all said and done?  And on and on.

I was fortunate to have been doing the expedition to Kili with an outfit like TFK.  They provided a good bit of info to help us prepare ourselves, and gladly answered all my questions as I researched things and acquired the things I needed.  I even remember being at REI looking at stuff.  I called TFK’s Director of Operations, an all-around hiking guru.  And started asking many questions to understand the options, look at items, see if the items’ features were really needed, and all that sort of good stuff.  It was not easy but having access to expert knowledge helped make these key decisions, Especially when spending is required and one has to be careful what one spends the hard-earned money on!!

I won’t repeat here all the things I decided to do in terms of preparation or to pack in terms of the best clothing options and non-clothing items to bring; I will provide links to those posts below.  But now I will address here the “how hard” question…

So how hard is it to climb Kilimanjaro then?

Hiking to the summit of a 19,340 foot mountain is not something to be undertaken lightly.  OK, perhaps if you are a superstar athlete or have the right genes you can… but most of us do not fit that category.  Actually, I take that back:  even being a superstar athlete does not guarantee you will make it to the top of the mountain or even to the rim of the volcano (Stella Point for our route up).

Physical conditioning is only part of what is needed to make it to Uhuru Peak, the summit.  It will most CERTAINLY help you tons. I experienced difficulties after the intimidating Barranco Wall and, of course, summit night for not being in the best possible shape.  However, the other key factor affecting your chances of success is, well, simply how your body deals with the high altitude and lower oxygen levels.

The good news: you can do a couple of things that help a tad.  Nevertheless, you have to have an OK fitness level.   You WILL be exerting your body through a few hours a day of walking and gradual climbs, mixed with some steeper climbs at certain points!

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Leaving the Lava Tower looks harder than it was (Day 3)

Training at altitude would help but, from what I understand, the body’s adjustment to altitude dissipates within a few days/a week so that may not be logistically possible for most (if money and time were no object, of course, one would train at high altitude in another continent for a week or two and head straight to climb Kili without wasting days in between – not a likely approach for most).  I did not do any high altitude / long climbs as part of my training due to many constraints but certainly they can only help so if you are able to do some of that in the weeks before, then your fitness level will be better.

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Heading to Barafu Camp from where we would launch to the summit (Day 5)

Part of my training as I share elsewhere was walking on a treadmill on a high incline with a backpack loaded with twice the weight I would carry on the mountain.  It was an odd sight at the gym for sure but it helped physically if not just mentally…  That and the fact that I am in general good shape through routine exercise were in my favor but I still struggled summit night (who doesn’t?) and after the Barranco Wall.

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Climbing along (not up) the Barranco Wall had its challenging spots (me in orange!) (Day 4)

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A little while after the Barranco Wall (OK, an hour or so), we got hit by a little rain

Kilimanjaro was far from easy (each day I would end completely drained and able to move but barely). But I feel it is a reasonable, attainable goal for people with a fair degree of training/fitness.  And with the drive to push themselves beyond what they think they can do.  Yet, with all that, it will still all depend on how the high altitude hits each particular individual.  And that reaction cannot be predicted.

I have to say that MOST CERTAINLY going with a great organization (in my case, a non-profit like Trekking for Kids) and having a one-of-a-kind extremely seasoned lead guide as we had (Luis Benitez – read about him here) were key success factors in helping ME complete the journey from planning to trekking to summitting.  And making it down in one piece!

What was the hardest part about climbing Kilimanjaro?

It is a hard question to answer.  We are all so different.  My answer may not be yours.  Things I can think of include:

  • the cold, especially at summit night,
  • the longing for a nice glass o’ wine or a beer (OK, I threw that in for comic relief),
  • the badly needing to get up to pee in the middle of the night (if taking Diamox – or not),
  • the constant packing and unpacking, inflating and deflating,
  • the not showering,
  • the bathroom situation at camp and on the trail,
  • the rocks to climb requiring longer legs than I have,
  • the having a sick tent-mate and wondering for days if you will catch it and not be able to summit,
  • etc.

(NOTE:  Observe that food is not on this list of possible “hard” things.  I ate great stuff thanks to our great porters and crew!)

But, frankly, all these things are overcomeable.  For instance, while I used wipies every day to sort of clean up after a day of hiking, I had no such thing for the hair.  Yet not even ONCE on the mountain did I think that it had been days since I had washed my hair last.  Those who know me will know how incredible THAT sounds.

Kilimanjaro:  Hard climb but special

That’s what makes going up Kili something special.

YES, it is hard in many ways. Indeed, physically, no matter how well trained you are (with those rare exceptions).  But the hardest part is the mental part.  When you wonder if you really can make it all the way.  And when you wonder whether you want to – on one of those rare moments when you are too tired to think straight.

The hardest part is keeping going, putting one foot in front of the other when you think you can step no more.  But you can.  And you will.  Pole, pole.  Slowly, slowly – our internal Swahili chant.  And you will be so amazed when it is all done that you actually did it.  That you had it in you.  I never knew I did.  But I did.  And I found out through this amazing experience…  I am eternally grateful for those folks at that fundraiser who egged me on. Because the sense of achievement and the self-discovery was truly a gift received – or earned, actually 🙂

And this is the face of happiness at 19,340 ft above sea level at the summit, with my family close to me.

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At Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro!!  (with the short-lived too-reflective sign; it’s gone now)

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Some key links to other posts I have written here based on my experience of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro:

Gear for Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro Clothing

Preparing to Hike Kili: More than Training and Gear

Top 14 Items to Bring on a Climb of Kilimanjaro

And if you want to read a day-by-day walkthrough of what it is to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro, start with Day 1.

And if you just like hiking in general, check out some of my posts about hiking in different places around the world!

Hiking in the state of Georgia: Blood Mountain

Hiking in the Transylvanian Alps in Romania

Trekking the W Circuit in Patagonia

Doing the Camino de Santiago in Spain

A Hike around Fitz Roy in Argentina

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Would love to hear from you about places you hope to hike or favorites past hikes – always good to get ideas from others for future hikes!!

Barranco Wall – A Great Challenge | Kilimanjaro Day 4

The Barranco Wall is one of the most dreaded – if not feared- segments of the climb of Mount Kilimanjaro on the Machame Route.  People often ask how hard is it to do the Barranco Wall.  I was blissfully oblivious to the question before I went on this adventure.  Blessed ignorance!  While I had researched my trek and prepared for it, I had mostly focused on the training, clothing, gear, and altitude sickness more than on the intricacies of the climb or route itself.

Looking back, I am glad I did not know about the Barranco Wall before I met it that morning…  How hard was it to climb the Barranco Wall?  Was it like wall climbing or walking along a steep edge?  How wide was the path along the Barranco Wall?  How high was the Barranco Wall?  What would I feel?  I am sure the questions would have been endless.  And, if you are reading this, perhaps you are asking yourself those questions and seeking answers.  I will get to my answers to those questions, but let me take a step back in the narrative here…

Starting day 4 on the Machame route

There is a morning routine to camp life in Mount Kilimanjaro – at least I concocted one all of my own.  This routine started with getting my “person” ready (dressing, brushing teeth, etc..).  Then it moved to those activities that were about packing up (rolling up the pad, etc.).  And the routine ended with getting ready to go (putting on the layers, filling water bottle, etc.).

While I was a little more leisurely about the first set of tasks (I woke up early enough), I usually felt rushed on the latter.  I worried every day that I would slow down the group’s departure.  Sure enough, I was often the last or second to last person to be ready.  Not really sure why, I got up early enough!  But I didn’t get voted off the mountain so I guess it was all A-OK!

Day 4 on the Machame Route up Kilimanjaro began like every other day:  get out of the zipped-up sleeping bag, figure out where the full pee bottle was to not accidentally crush it, find the camp shoes, put on some warm clothes, have some water, take any of the daily meds required, etc.  I executed the full morning routine as if nothing special was about to happen…

 Hiker, Trekker in front of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania wearing Arcteryx

Once the morning routine was completed, this trekker looks like a pro!

Meet the Barranco Wall:  A mental and physical wall? 

But on day 4 I did wake up with something else on my mind beyond my routine:  the Barranco Wall.  I had on purpose not read every detail about the Machame Route before I left for the trip as I mentioned earlier because I figured leaving some element of surprise would be good.  I did not want to be anticipating what came next but, instead, enjoy each moment in the present (and not dread the next moment…).

Then, the night before we went on the Barranco Wall, I was told about this well-known feature of the trail we were taking.  I was not sure what what was shared really meant but I had seen the wall on our way in from a distance and I got a little worried about what it would take to get through it for this amateur.  Clearly it was going to be a narrow path with the wall on one side and the “fast” way down on the other…  I tried to not think about it because there was no sense in over-processing it.  But I was hoping it was not wall climbing with a cliff’s edge right by my feet…

It should be called the Barranco Wait, not the Barranco Wall

Of all the things to have worried about, wall climbing was not it.  No mental or physical wall there (that does not mean there were not a couple of tricky moments!).  The real “wall” was the wait to cross the Barranco Wall!  See, normally trails are wide enough to walk two people side-by-side which allows for letting porters pass you without you having to stop or get out of the way.  We appreciated porters because they make the trek possible for the hikers (more on the porters here).  So we always let them pass if we were walking side by side at any point.

However, the trail on the Barranco Wall narrowed to single file for most of it.  The wall did require some times pulling yourself over rocks but always with the trail on either side of it (that is, never floating over empty space below).  So porters would be trapped waiting for hikers to work their way through these points.

Our group stayed off to the side right before the Barranco Wall started to let as many porters pass but it became rather tedious as we ended up sort of waiting for like a good 30 minutes or so.  Other than that the wall should take an hour or two depending on your fitness level and the traffic ahead.

The Barranco Wall on the Machame Route climbing Mt Kilimanjaro

Long line of climbers and porters entering the Barranco Wall. Me?  In the waiting room to enter the Wall, I suppose!

The Barranco Wall on the Machame Route climbing Mt Kilimanjaro

Barranco Wall, here we come! OK, in 2 minutes. No, in 10. No in 20…

Finally, the wall

Wondering what lay ahead of me in the trail for this day, I was quite eager to initiate the hike (instead of pondering what lay ahead).  I sensed others around me were ready to go for whatever reasons of their own.

We finally got started and I found the wall was actually quite doable.  Yes, the trail narrowed at certain points to widths not comfortable for everyone but this actually did not bother me – but I still made sure I was closer to the wall than to the trail’s edge 🙂  The Barranco Wall is between 200-300 m high and, while not trivial, it didn’t hit me as scary from an altitude standpoint though people are very different when it comes to altitudes and ledges so keep that in mind.

Climbing on the Barranco Wall in Kilimanjaro

At the beginning of the Barranco Wall, finally! (Photo courtesy of K. Shuman)

Given we had to go very slowly, I had the time to look back at the direction of the Barranco Camp and the entrance to the Barranco Wall…  And the ever-important photos…

View towards Barranco Camp from the Barranco Wall

Camp was in the direction of the green-roofed hut on the top left. Note that trail of trekkers and porters.

Entrance to the Barranco Wall on the Machame Route

Closeup towards the almost-dry stream we had to cross to enter the Barranco Wall’s “waiting room”

In the end, there were a couple of “tight” spots.  One was a little jump, where help was necessary and useful (from a physical and mental block standpoint).  It was better to have one’s hands free along the path to be able to hold on to things.  So the hiking poles helped me most by being packed away versus in my hands.  The physical exertion was a non-issue for me along the wall and I was glad for that – but there was more ahead, post wall…  The Barranco Wall, for someone not afraid of heights, was not a hard thing to do.  I suspect it is a different story for someone afraid of heights.

The trail after the Barranco Wall:  a trail of doubt for me

With the wall behind us, I felt relief that now we were going to be back on a more “normal” trail – I had this!  Well, we were not quite back to one of those normal trails.  The trail after the Barranco Wall required climbing over a lot of rocks (without a cliff around) and the exertion of climbing over large rocks actually left me quite winded.  I could see myself lagging the group a bit more with every passing section of the trail and I was not happy.  Frustration and doubt started to creep in…

Our Trekking for Kids lead reassured me that the extra exertion of the legs would definitely have this impact (picture, if you will, the difference between walking uphill vs. walking up the same incline using stairs:  it is harder on the latter).  Still I was disappointed,  I wondered if my fitness level was not up to par (I should have hiked more…)  and – furthermore- what did this presage about summit night??

Our lead hiking guide, checking in on me at the next break, told me that an accelerated heart rate is also caused by altitude and may not be necessarily a statement about my fitness level.  I appreciated the support of the TFK lead and our lead guide.  It helped me muster enough strength to get me past this stage of the trail – but just barely…

Onwards and upward on Kilimanjaro!

Mercifully, after that stage, the trail become more the normal up and down hills so I was OK on those.  Occasional rocks along the way were further apart from each other so the issue did not re-surface.  I once again believed I could do this!  My first moment of doubt since entering the mountain had lasted maybe less than an hour.  But, mentally, it had been huge.  So this is what people mean when they say climbing Kili is both a physical AND a mental challenge…

Along the way, the weather was seemingly taking a turn for the worse.  So, we made a quick stop to put on our rain gear but it really did not rain much or for long at all – whew!  While it would not have been terrible, it is just not fun…

Rain hits while climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

Hikers walking into the cloud…

We arrived at the Karanga Camp (13,800 ft; 4,200 m) after a 4 mile (7 km) hike that took us around 5 hours.  We were very pleased that it was another nice camp on a sloping hillside with great views.  The tents were on a little bit of a slope. But after one slightly uncomfortable night on Day 2, I learned the trick to make the sleeping bag as horizontal as possible.  Just put stuff under the sleeping pad to even it out – simple solution!

Karanga Camp at Kilimanjaro's Machame Route

Yet another beautiful camp! (Photo courtesy of K. Shuman)

Getting the best sleep in Kilimanjaro – sleeping pad

It is worth explaining that we used sleeping pads under the sleeping bags for two reasons:

  1. Further insulate you from the cold ground, and
  2. A little more comfort in sleep with the extra padding.

For me, though, it was more about the comfort question as my zero-rated sleeping bag did a great job with the temperature.

My sleeping pad was an inflatable one (but not self-inflatable).  I had not brought a pump with me to avoid the extra weight (the pump and then all the batteries).  Given the altitude and diminished oxygen levels, I was worried this would be an issue.  But it actually was no trouble at all.  I just inflated the pad sometime before dinner so it was ready for bedtime.  Plus it helped me practice my pressure breathing – good exercise for my lungs at altitude!

Folding the sleeping pad in the morning after deflating it to slip back into its tight packing sleeve was actually THE worst moment of my morning routine…  EVERY.  SINGLE.  DAY.  I should have traded sterilizing someone’s water every morning for folding up and packing my sleeping pad…

It’s all in the views…

Like many moments on this climb, neat views delight when they appear.  After the Barranco Wall waiting room, the post-wall stage which slowed me down and brought doubt, and the slight rain we experienced, it was the nice views that really motivated me to continue with every day and every step.  Such motivation was, for me, this view on Day 4…

Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit beckons climbers

The summit beckons!  We are closer!

Back to Day 3

… or on to Day 5!!

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Pin this image of the Barranco Wall to your board – you will make it OK through it – even if you have to wait!

how hard Barranco Wall, climbing Kilimanjaro

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Other posts about my Mount Kilimanjaro trek experience:

–  Preparing for the hike is more than training and gear

–  Clothing required for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro

–  The Machame Route:  our way up

–  7 things you will not see me without as I climb Kili

–  Day 1 of the hike:  and away we go!

–  Day 2 of the hike

–  Interview with fellow Kili climber and Ultimate Global Explorer Len Stanmore

How to Pack to Hike to Everest Base Camp

My hike in Nepal a couple of years ago along the route to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was a great experience.  Many things have to be planned for such as how to get there and how to train.  Packing for Everest Base Camp is also essential to have an enjoyable Nepal hiking experience.  In this post, I want to share how to pack to hike along the route to Everest Base Camp.  While I did not go to EBC itself, this packing list would only need small adjustments, if any, for those going all the way to EBC.

This trek versus other treks

Hiking in Nepal is unlike my experience climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or trekking in Patagonia‘s Torres del Paine.  In Kilimanjaro and on the ‘W’ circuit in Patagonia, one is walking along areas where humans do not live:  they are parks.  But to get to Everest Base Camp, one walks along hamlets and a rare town that either pre-date the route’s popularity due to hikers or that arose due to the demand.  Either way, the result is the same.  One gets to experience Nepalese hospitality and customs in a way that enhances the experience.  It is not simply a hiking experience, a physical challenge.

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Taking a tea break during a sunny day at a teahouse

Trekking to Base Camp or just a view of Everest

In my hike, I did not have the time off work (yes, I have a regular job with the usual constraints on vacation time!) to be able to get to Everest Base Camp and return.  That was OK with me.  In the trek I joined with Trekking for Kids, there was an option to only go past the Tengboche Monastery to Deboche and then turn back around.  (Note: if you are interested, Trekking for Kids is planning to return there in late 2018 with both the full trek to EBC or the shorter one like I did called “Everest View”.  See here more more details on that trek.)

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Deboche – not a big place at all!

While it would have been cool to see EBC, I was not crushed.  I was just glad to be able to see Mt. Everest in person and experience the trekking route.  I also discovered the more  impressive Ama Dablam – one majestic mountain if there was ever one.

Considerations on packing for Everest Base Camp (or almost EBC!)

Preparing for hiking along the route to Everest Base Camp was not vastly different than some of my other hikes.

The route to EBC continually goes up in altitude as one goes along (no surprise there!).  The trek itself, if you start in Lukla (the one with the crazy airport), starts at around 2,800 m (9,300 ft).  EBC itself sits at near 5,400 m (17,600 ft).  So that right there will make it cold, like with Kilimanjaro (particularly at night).  Add to that the fact that heating at the teahouses where one stays at is ‘limited’ to be generous.  (One exception: we stayed at a proper hotel in Namche Bazaar).  Sleeping quarters are not heated.  And the common space where one eats meals and hangs out before heading to bed only usually have a tiny stove in the center.  So, cold weather gear and clothing was key (again, no surprise there).

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The stove in the teahouse’s main room is a popular spot…

As with Kilimanjaro, you have to mind the amount of stuff you bring along.  There will be limitations on what can be carried by the support staff.  So being smart about light items, re-usable items, and the concept of “just enough” vs. “just in case.”

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My “packing list” in a visual format 🙂

It is worth noting that some teahouses have a tiny counter that may sell some basics.  But I would not make my plans with that as the approach to packing – it could be hit or miss. Namche Bazaar, along the way, will have plenty of the basics available (including some medications) as a backup to anything forgotten.  Packing for Everest requires a good balance between being prepared and not over-loading the bags!

Clothing and Footwear

  • Upper Body and Legs:  The main point to the clothing to be taken is to stay warm and be comfortable first and foremost.  Layers are key to both.  Base layers for the torso and legs, with an added layer for extra warmth, and an outer layer for the coldest of times are the basic framework for the clothing plan.  Wind/Rain top and bottom layers are also important though rain itself was not the biggest of factors when I went; I’d recommend the top having a hood.  The recommended approach is to use wool as the material of choice.  It provides excellent warmth while wicking moisture away (keeping you from smelling and helping with the re-use of clothing items.
  • Feet:  The boots you will need should be, as expected, able to trudge through mud, ice, snow and the like – and be very comfortable.  Liners and woolen socks complete the “outfit” for you feet.  Nothing here is different than for most hiking scenarios in cold weather / high places.  You could also bring a pair of solid walking shows (vs. boots) so you can take a break from the boots.  The initial part of the trail does not necessarily require boots so you could do this if you have space.  Also, you will need some shoes to wear at the teahouse every night so these walking shoes could serve that purpose perhaps.
  • Hands:  Again, nothing terribly surprising here but because of the great and sustained cold temperatures, a hardy pair of gloves is a must.  You may also want to bring lighter gloves as it is not always freezing cold (lower altitudes or inside the teahouse at night).
  • Head:  A skull cap, balaclave or ski hat are a must – keeping the head warm is very important, as we all know.  You may also want to wear something at the teahouses (or even when sleeping as it is cold in those rooms!).


Gear and other practical items

  • Sleeping bag:  While you will sleep on beds in the teahouses, they are not necessarily clean and the cold may be too much for the provided linen.  So a sleeping bag rated for very cold weather is important to bring.  I just brought the one I used in Kili which was 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated.  Very much needed!
  • Night light:  When headed to the bathroom in the middle of the night, this may facilitate a lot of things… like seeing in your room, seeing in the toilet, etc.  Don’t forget batteries!
  • Pillow:  A small pillow would be helpful though teahouses tended to offer pillow.  I had my neck pillow for the air travel but I still used the teahouse-provided ones – covering them, of course…
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Typical sleeping quarters in a teahouse

  • Trekking poles:  Parts of the trek are steep so trekking poles are most helpful providing lift, stepdown, and balance support.  Mine have shock absorbers to help when going down – most helpful for me to protect my imperfect knees!

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    Very steep heading to Namche Bazaar

  • Water:  Treating water is very important.  A Steripen is the most practical way (in my opinion) as within a couple of minutes you have water that is safe to drink and tastes normal.  Batteries are the big thing here.  Bring plenty as you will use this device a lot and others may ask to borrow it.   Add to that that batteries deplete faster with the cold and high zones you will be traveling through.  Of course, you will need a bottle with a wide neck to be able to properly use the Steripen.  I also will add that I used a Camelbak bag inside my backpack.  It is easier and better to sip water through the attached hose than to drink gulps out of a bottle that had to be taken out.


  • Wipies/Tissues:  These are multi-purpose… Clean up after a day’s hike if the shower facilities are not available/too busy/too-dirty.  Also, you could use these if there is not toilet paper available (or dry…) around.  Or other general cleaning purposes!  [I will say as a parenthetical observation that I’d rather use the portable toilet tents used in Kilimanjaro than some of the indoor toilets these teahouses had… the portable toilets were cleaned daily and did not smell as bad and the area under them was just earth, not a dirty indoor floor…]
  • Towel:  A small quick dry towel is important as teahouses do not offer towels.  Quick dry is very important as they will not dry quickly enough overnight, especially with the air so cold.  Along with that, bring your own soap and shampoo…


  • Medications and first aid:  The items here are more specific to each individual’s circumstances.  But perhaps something to help sleep, something for altitude (like Diamox), something for an unexpected bout of digestive issues (CIPRO; a couple of folks got very ill in our group), something for pains/aches (like knee pain. Ibuprofen was my choice), something to help with treating blisters, etc.  Talk to your doctor about anything specific to your needs.  Also, the Center for Disease Controls in the United States offers travel advice specific to each country and regions within.  Your doctor should know about it or be able to look it up upon your request.  The route to EBC is unlikely to have too many of the typical tropical diseases (yellow fever, malaria, etc.) due to the climate but you do enter Nepal at a much lower altitude.
  • Personal items:  The usual suspects toothbrush, toothpaste, sunblock, lip balm, deodorant, floss, hand sanitizer, etc.  Whatever you normally need (and your roommate would appreciate you using!).
  • And, of course, duct tape!  Prevents blisters from developing too much, fixes broken things, and who knows what other needs!  I roll mine either on a pencil or on the trekking pole to save space.

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I leave you with my view of Mt. Everest!  Pin it to your board!

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If you are interested in getting a copy of my Microsoft Excel packing list, leave me a comment below.  I will email you the list I used “as is” (no bells and whistles!).  Your needs may be different and I am not saying my list is exactly what YOU need. But it may give you a starting point!  

 

Top 14 Items for a Kilimanjaro Packing List

I assume that, if you are on this post you must be thinking of your Mount Kilimanjaro packing list.  Well, you came to the right spot!  How to prepare for climbing Kilimanjaro is a crucial step in your planning efforts. 

Via this blog, I share my preparation and packing tips for what to bring on this amazing endeavor (in this post and others; see bottom of post for more inclusive posts).  As I was helped with my planning, I’d like to help others.  In a separate post I cover clothing.  In this post I cover my 14 top items to bring to Kili.  Hopefully, my list and accompanying explanations will be helpful!

A Kilimanjaro packing list is no small thing!

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Climbing Kilimanjaro is quite the experience – an achievable one for most people with some training and mental readiness for the effort.  But climbing to the “roof of Africa” is also an operational endeavor!  Lots of planning for the clothing and other items that are needed. This while balancing needs, cost, and weight.  The following picture sort of gives you a visual of the amount of stuff that my Kilimanjaro packing list included.

I have written in another post about what to bring as far as clothing if you are climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.  That post can help you build the clothing part of your Kilimanjaro packing list.  In no particular order and without further ado, here are the top 14 non-clothing items that were most helpful for me in my hike.

My top 14 items for your Kilimanjaro packing list

1.  Sleeping bag

Get a good one.  One that keeps you warm.  Remember that some of them work best when you wear the least amount of clothing.  I know.  It seems counter-intuitive.  But it is true.  Zero (Fahrenheit) -rated is recommended.  If not, get a liner with extra warmth.  But the best is just a good sleeping bag as the liner would be just one-more-thing to get into and out of…  The mummy style works best.  You want that tapered shape instead of a rectangular one – the rectangular one has more space for air inside that will need to be warmed and that heat comes from you body.  The tapered one is better in that regard.

2.  Wipies

Oh, wipies, thou art so versatile!   Whether it is cleaning yourself after a day of hiking or cleaning yourself after nature calls – or just to wipe your hands after eating, these little suckers are quite helpful.  Take some.  Take a good amount.

3.  Pee bottle

“Huh??,” you may say.  That’s what I said too.  But, stay open-minded…

Picture this:  middle of the night, you zipped into your zero/sub-zero rated sleeping bag, in a tent, with two pairs of zippers in your way to go outside, you with little clothing on, outside freezing cold, you needing to put on clothes, shoes too, stumbling to find the headlamp so you don’t stumble outside OR, middle of the night, you zipped into your zero/sub-zero rated sleeping bag, stumbling to find the bottle (i.e., the pee bottle), then trying to carefully point/aim.  Done.  Yea, I thought so.  Pee bottle.

A tip:  Get a wide mouth bottle (improves the odds of filling it not your tent).

Another tip:  Make sure it seals tight so, when it tips over as you move in your sleep, it will not fill your tent.

Final tip:   Make it big enough.  Do not underestimate how much pee comes out in one “go” plus you may go more than once per night.  Any questions?

4.  Headlamp (with plenty of batteries)

The headlamp will be key on summit night as you start the hike up to the summit at midnight.  You will need to watch your step even if you go with a full moon.  Additionally, at camp at night and in your tent, you will make use of the headlamp.  Make sure you bring extra batteries and save those for summit night.  An extra little light bulb may be good but if the one you have is new, you may not need it (I didn’t).

5.  Pain killer

While my personal preference is to deal with the pain without the need of meds, this approach is suspended when I am trying to climb a 19,340 ft mountain, you know?  I was not sure how my knees would perform nor what other pains may arise during this week long adventure.  I only used them on the descent (not at the start while going down the scree field but after leaving base camp).  It is EXTREMELY rocky in this part of the mountain and I could feel my knees were going to have issues.  I took 2 preventive Advils and repeated once later during the descent and then with dinner that night.  Whether because of my preventive measures or not, I had only very slight soreness on my knees.

6.  Ambien

I was leery of using Ambien at altitude not knowing what effects, if any, it could have on me (other than making me fall asleep).  I had them more for the flight and my first night in-country not for the hike.  But our lead guide said it was OK and maybe even a good idea to take half an Ambien to take the edge off and be able to fall asleep in the evenings since rest was so important during the hike.  So I did and it all worked great.

7.   Hiking poles (two of them!)

Yes, this hike will be a lot easier with two, not one, poles.  Poles give you impulse as you climb over a big step and also you can push off with them as you move forward.  However, they shine in the descent:  my knees would have been pulp (more than they were) if I had not had these poles to soften the impact when stepping down over rocks.  Can’t recommend using them enough (even if you are “tough” – everyone has them) – and if you can score the ones with shock absorbers, even better!

Do try them out somewhere as the grip will be important.  I liked the foam grip and cork handle as it would feel better if my hands got sweaty either way I held it.  I could unscrew the handle to use it as a camera mount (though I did not use that feature during this hike).  Also, make sure they are adjustable:  when you go up, you may want them shorter than when you are going down when you may want them longer!  There are hiking poles at every price point so just check them out in person, ask questions, and then pick!  Or even better, borrow them from someone you know 🙂

8.  Duct tape

You never know what you will need this for and therein the beauty of duct tape:  it fixes anything.  OK, I exaggerate.  Most anything.  I roll it on a pencil as taking the roll itself is bulky.  You can use it to fix a broken backpack or to nip a budding blister before it becomes a nightmare.  You choose the color!

9.  A camera!

OK, this may be obvious.  I was trying to keep the weight down in my “carry-on” during the hike but I clearly needed a camera.  How would I otherwise take magnificent pictures??  I did make a good decision to get a high quality pocket camera instead of my regular bulky camera.  Good call – I got plenty of great photos but without too much bulk/weight.  The views and the moments are worth the camera weight!

 10.  Quick dry towel

While you are not showering for the duration of the hike, you will be brushing your teeth and, likely, your porters will have warm water ready for you when arrive at camp to wash your hands, face, etc.  The quick dry part is likely self-explanatory (when you leave a camp, you don’t return to not a lot of time for the towel to dry out).

 11.  Pad for the sleeping bag

The ground you will be sleeping on is often hard and cold.  In fact, at a couple of places it was even rocky.  The little pad the hike organizers provide for you to lay your sleeping bag on is rather thin and will not do a good enough job to add cushion or protection from the soil.  I took with me an inflatable pad that made my sleep more comfortable – and that is priceless.  A fellow hiker was going to let me use her pump but I ended up having no problem blowing up the pad even at higher altitudes (good job, my lungs).  I got to practice my forced breathing by blowing up the pad so it was good all-around!  (I did HATE every morning deflating it and folding it up…)

12.  Notepad

You may want to bring something to write on as you will have a lot of time at camp after a day’s hike and you may have things from the day to jot down so you don’t forget.  I wrote down start/end times, hours walked, and even what I ate.  I also took notes on funny things or things I experienced – not quite a diary, just quick notes.  On the topic of a lot of time at night, you may want to bring anything else that may amuse you (cards, Sudoku sheets, etc.) but don’t add too much weight to your bag!

13.  Water purification method

Water is boiled at camp but that is only for cooking.  It takes too long to boil water at altitude.  And your porters will not be able to boil water for you to drink.  You will need to bring your own purification solution of which there are several options (purification tablets, ultraviolet radiation, etc.).  The tablets, such as iodine tablets, are lighter to carry.  However, you have to wait for the water to be ready to drink and the iodine causes an odd taste.

SteriPENs are a portable ultraviolet radiation option that is quick and easy.  I had brought the tablets but others had SteriPENs in the group and I quickly realized how much better the SteriPEN approach was.  They all offered the rest of the group their SteriPENs so I traded using one of the hiker’s SteriPEN for sterilizing her water bottles in return – a win win!  Just know they can be temperamental and be sure to bring enough batteries!

14.  But the most important item…

Hopefully, this list has been helpful so far – if you have any questions on the above items or any other, feel free to leave a comment and I will get back to you.  While the list is not all-inclusive, it is the list of the items I most appreciated having with me.  However, the most important item I brought along was… a photo of my family.  This photo went with me to the summit which meant they went up Kilimanjaro too, with me…

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Want to read how the hike went?  Start on Day 1

Other posts on climbing Kilimanjaro:

The items recommended above are mentioned for their key features, not because I have an opinion on whether they are the best in their class.   While this is not my entire Kilimanjaro packing list, I am happy to share my full list if you need one as a starting point for creating yours.  It is not an easy thing to plan for, but quite doable.

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Pin the image below to your Pinterest hiking board as you build your own Kilimanjaro packing list!

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Pin my visual Kilimanjaro packing list – and visualize the day you summit Kili!

Hike to an Inn in North Georgia

If you are a casual reader of this blog, you will know that I enjoy hiking near and far from my home.  One of the “near” hikes on my list to check out was the hike to the Hike Inn in north Georgia.  The Hike Inn can only be accessed by hiking to it hence the name (actually, it’s full name is Len Foote Hike Inn).  There is a service road leading to it but, as the name implies, it is for service, not for guests.  Guests need to do the 5 hour hike in and out.

The trail begins atop Amicalola Falls (about 1.5 hrs/70-mile drive from Atlanta) – a destination to check out onto itself with other trails and a phenomenally tall set of staircases if you want to walk from the bottom of the falls to the top.  On this day, we drove to the top of the falls where we would leave our vehicles.

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The top of Amicalola Falls – awesome place!

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The start of the Hike Inn trail

The Hike Inn is in high demand so you need to book it in advance.  It is well worth it.  The hike is not super strenuous and you are rewarded by a magnificent place to stay.

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Amazing detail of nature

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Along the trail

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Our arrival at the Hike Inn!

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The view from the Hike Inn – magnificent

The accommodations are basic (bunk beds) and you can get private rooms.  The bathrooms and showers are shared but they are actually quite clean and nice (especially when compared with how basic the rooms are).  The toilets actually do not flush but, instead, deposit the waste (nice wording, huh?) somewhere below where it is taken advantage of through processes that they staff will happily explain if you decide to take them up on the tour of the facility (it is actually worth doing).

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Hallway by the rooms

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Bath house building

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There are rules for the toilet

Actually, everything about the place is about taking care of the environment.  The inn offers dining service with support of volunteers who get to stay for free for their service.  The Hike Inn politely stresses the importance of not wasting food (only serve yourself what you need) and actually tracks clean plates’ count at the end of a meal.  The food is delicious and the dining area is an open space where you can meet other hikers.  Really neat.

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Dining area

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Menu of the day

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Chart showing how well diners have done

After dinner (or before), you can sit and relax in any number of places around the inn.  One of my favorites is the upper porch looking east-ish – I love me a good rocking chair with a view!  You can also go for short walks around.  Right in that upper porch area is a game room where people can congregate and play games or read a book.

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The living/game room

The best part of it all is sunrise.  If you wake up early enough (and I recommend it!), go down to the sitting area below and face east.  Bring a blanket.  And then enjoy a majestic sunrise if the weather cooperates.  It is the perfect way to end the stay before starting back on the trail down.  Next time I go, I think I may stay two nights to really enjoy the place and its surroundings!  I leave you with a series of photos from the amazing sunrise I witnessed!

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Chattahoochee River Hikes: Vickery Creek Trail in Roswell

Right by old town Roswell, a few miles outside of Atlanta‘s “perimeter” (an interstate highway that rings the city), is the Vickery Creek Trail.  There are about 7 miles worth of trails in this pocket of nature in the middle of Roswell.  A portion of the trails are near the creek (also named Big Creek) which hits the Chattahoochee River right by the entrance to the parking lot I used to hit the trailhead.  This area is also part of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, a collection of parks along the river which crosses Atlanta from the NE to the SW (sort of!).Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoVickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo

The trail offers moderate hiking, with some fairly flat portions and a few climbs that I would guess are not too strenuous to the average person.  The trails are well marked (the blue square spray painted on trees) and well signed so one can make one’s way around pretty easily.  Because of the time of the year, what seemed to me to be mountain azaleas were in bloom (pinkish flowers). Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoVickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoVickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoVickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photoflowers, Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo
What is cool about this trail is seeing the two waterfalls created by a small and a large dam.  The area around the larger waterfall is not large and one has to watch one’s step but it is a pretty spot.Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, waterfall Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, waterfall Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, waterfall Vickery Creek, Roswell, Georgia, Chattahoochee, river, park, Atlanta, hiking, outdoors, nature, trail, Samsung Galaxy S7, photo, waterfall

There are also a covered bridge and a large span bridge further down which facilitate cross the creek to other trailheads and parking areas.   Whether you are here in Atlanta to go up to the mountains or just visiting the city, this trail is one of many easy to visit and yet offering a unique hiking experience!

How Can You See Atlanta’s Carpet of Green? Pine Mountain!

Atlanta is known for its crazy traffic and challenging airport.  But it is also known for the carpet of green that covers the city far and wide.  A week ago (or so), I was looking for a new hike not too far from the city and new to me.  Thankfully, we are not lacking for good hikes within 30 mins of the city (and if you expand that to 1.5 hrs, the possibilities are endless it seems!).

I opted to go north on I-75 to climb Pine Mountain in Cartersville.  The 4.6 round-trip hike was of moderate difficulty and not heavily trafficked.  When I arrived around 9:45 AM, the small parking lot of Main St. (not even a quarter mile from I-75) was pretty full.Atlanta, hiking, Georgia, mountains, nature, outdoors

The trail has a West Loop and an East Loop connected by a pass where the summit is found.  We hiked the southern end of both loops and the returned via the northern loops.  It was beautiful terrain and, with trees still not fully covered with leaves, one could see much further around which is one of the things I enjoy about hiking in colder weather.

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Trail Map

What I enjoyed about this hike, beyond its accessibility for this city dweller was that it offered a great view of the carpet of green that is the greater Atlanta metro area.  In the distance I could see the faint skyline of downtown, Midtown, Buckhead and Sandy Springs with Lake Allatoona in the foreground.  I have to say, this was a neat hike easily fitting in a half day.  I leave you with pictures from the hike and the view though the skyline is too small for it to show well on the photos so may not even see in these photos.  Beware:  a lot that looks like just green forests actually hides neighborhood after neighborhood in greater Atlanta!

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The double hump mountain is Kennesaw Mountain, a famous Civil War battlefield

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Of course, the highway (I-75) is not too far away!

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Lake Allatoona

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Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back.  As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin.  This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche.  This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post.  And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s.  We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below.  A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right.  This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek.  Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

Stupa, chorten, sherpa, Himalayas, Nepal, EBC, trail, Everest, Tibetan, design, colorful, Samsung Galaxy

Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

Stupa, chorten, sherpa, Himalayas, Nepal, EBC, trail, Everest, Tibetan, design, colorful, Samsung Galaxy

Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area:  Ama Dablam.  It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker.  Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house.  Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite.  Sometimes one, sometimes the other.  Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun.  A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

tea house, Himalayas, Nepal, Everest, EBC, Tibetan, architecture, tea, break ,trekkig, hike, Samsung Galaxy

Lemon tea, anyone?  One or two glasses…

tea house, Himalayas, Nepal, Everest, EBC, Tibetan, architecture, tea, break ,trekkig, hike, Samsung Galaxy

Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand.  They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb.  I was torn.  On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating).   I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch…  But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit.  So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?).  In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours.  The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon.  It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal.  We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world.  And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

Lots of color and detail

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

Tengboche, monastery, Himalayas, Nepal, Tibetan, color, Samsung Galaxy

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche.  With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away!  Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek.  Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too.  The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had.  I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me.  We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

Deboche, trail, teahouse, tea house, Himalayas, Everest, base camp, Nepal,EBC

The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

Deboche, trail, teahouse, tea house, Himalayas, Everest, base camp, Nepal,EBC, dung, stove

Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly.  There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water.  I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer…  The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature.  Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning…  Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change:  a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche…  The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari).  It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors.  That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways.  We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail…  While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal:  the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.


Want to start at the beginning of this trek?  Here is day 1.  Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.


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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp.  I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great.  I think the group as a whole liked it a lot.  Good start to our time in Namche!  (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this.  I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

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The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner.  I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp.  It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style.  Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight!  (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…).  Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

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A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

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View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain).  We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day.  The short hike was  steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point.  There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

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At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

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Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Nepal, Everest, Lhotse, ilivetotravel, monument,Himalayas, Everest, EBC,  mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established.  It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

Sherpa Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, EBC, Everest, trekking, Himalayas

Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, EBC, Everest, trekking, Himalayas

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

Sherpa Culture Museum

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Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

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Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte.  Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!

Nepal, Namche Bazaar, Himalayas, Everest, EBC, town, mountains, photo, Samsung Galaxy

View from the lodge’s dining room

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Read on:  Day 4 – To my turning point: Deboche

 

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