The Key Places to See in Patagonia – On a Map!

As I sit to write about my trip, I thought a map of the Chilean Patagonia would be helpful to illustrate the different places I will  be writing about!

 

Source:  http://www.chiletravelplus.com

Getting to the Windy Chilean South, the Deep South

19 yrs ago, when I spent 3 months in Chile with work, I dreamt of going to Punta Arenas and the southern tip of the American hemisphere (American as in the Americas’ hemisphere).  However, the three flights a day or so they had back then were not available on the dates I could travel.  Perhaps that was all for the better as the Internet and such resources didn’t exist and I wonder how I would have determined exactly what to do and where to go had I been able to make it then…

But the yearning remained and for 18 yrs, the yearning included getting back to Chile, period.  Well, that happened in November 2009 but the trip down south was still a “pending”.  As my work in Chile wrapped up close to 13 months later, I figured I needed to make this happen.  So I made it happen.  I only had a few days between the Christmas holiday and the end of my assignment so I cut my assignment short a couple of days to give me a full 5 days down south (yes, not enough but enough to hit the items I wanted to hit).

I searched online for possible ways to organize my visit but work was in the most difficult stage (pre-rollout and rollout of 4 new systems, 2 of them major, for my client in Chile).  So I didn’t get to do my research and planning as I would have liked.  I ended up using an agency to organize my visit (www.visitchile.cl).  Margarita was my contact there and was very helpful in organizing what I was interested in with an efficient itinerary and offering a couple of good suggestions.

So, all I had to do was get my plane ticket and go.  The direct flights from Santiago turned out to not be convenient in terms of schedules so I ended up taking the flight that makes a stop in Puerto Montt (abt 30 mins, you don’t get off the plane unless that is your destination).  Pricewise, it wasn’t dirt cheap but given I booked all this about 3 weeks or so in advance, I did well enough.

So I took a 630 AM flight down south.  A major sacrifice as you can imagine…  I landed close to 11 AM in Punta Arenas, expecting a lot of turbulence given the famous strong winds in the area.  The plane barely moved as we approached, took a hard bank right, and landed.  As I met my driver, he told me the day before they had had about 120kph winds and planes were made to circle for like 40 minutes until it was safe to land, safe to use the jetways, and safe for ground crews to be out and about (I asked myself, why not land the planes, park them off the runway, and save those poor passengers all the jumping around…).  Later in my trip, people I met who flew on that day described rather disturbing jumping around as they landed in Pta Arenas and I counted my blessings!!

Pta Arenas is not, in my limited exploring, a beautiful town.  While you sit in the Straits of Magellan, I can’t say the setting is beautiful per se (I hear this is in contrast with Ushuaia in Argentina which I did not get to visit) but the winds, the penguins by the waterfront, and the idea of where I am in relation to the rest of the world did make me feel I was somewhere different, perhaps special.

Near the Costanera (waterfront road) in Punta Arenas

Typical architecture near the Plaza de Armas

Pta Arenas was just the start of my trip and certainly was not going to be the highlight as I was soon to find out…

A Year On… A Final Trip to Chile

It will almost be a year to the day since I traveled to Chile for the first time in 18 yrs.  I was expecting an infrequent trip there in the year to follow due to work but a couple of months in, the game changed and I got to practically be based in Santiago for most of 2010.  The surprise was pleasant for the most part, except I had not planned to live far from home for so long, even if I did get to come home for long weekends at least twice every month.  Now, I have one more trip down to Chile of a few weeks before this chapter of my life closes…

It is important to note that I had wanted to stay in Chile back then in 1991.  I enjoyed life there SO much.  But without too much on my resume yet, being “too green”, and no easy way to figure things out (no Internet!), I just went back to the U.S. when the assignment ended.

Seeing Santiago after 18 years was a strange experience.  I was able to recognize places from my life those 3 months around 1990-91 (my apt building, work, Brannigan’s on Calle Suecia, the McDs by Parque Arauco where I used to go eat after playing racquetball, and the old parts of town among others).  But, of course, 18 yrs in a good economic climate bring about lots of change.  I recall back then a skyline littered with cranes of high rises being built.  Well, by now, I am happy to report they finished the buildings… and then some!  Sanhattan did not exist when I was there – not in its current form, at least.  The area around Parque Arauco and Parque Arauco itself have been developed beyond recognition.  I got to re-connect with friends from those days there and while their lives of course had changed, the friends were pretty much as I remembered them (physically and personality-wise).

I got to sample numerous excellent restaurants from a list built up by recommendations from a couple of choice people who clearly know food.  I have hit just about every recommendation except for some.  By now, with 3 weeks left in my assignment, I am more interested in eating at my favorite places than discovering new ones.  Tiramisu and Cuero Vaca (http://www.cuerovaca.cl/) rank up there in my book (good eats!).  I will be eating there again for sure!   [Check out this review of Tiramisu at the NYT:  http://tinyurl.com/2fcbum7]

Of course, I got to be in Chile on or around key events in its national history:  the earthquake of February 27, the national elections that made history, the trapped miners, the bicentennial (bicentenario), and the national soccer team making it to the 2nd round in the World Cup.  Wow, what timing, don’t you agree??

I got to sample the Atacama desert, hop over the Andes to Mendoza, and explore more of Valparaíso.  Hopefully, before I return, I will also get to see Patagonia and the key sights down there – Torres del Paine, the Magellan Straits by Punta Arenas, the Perito Moreno glacier, and a few other sights.  Places left to see or see again include Valdivia, Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas and neighboring towns along the area, and the lakes crossing of the Andes to reach Bariloche.  Had work stretched into January, I would have been able to add them to my “itinerary”.  But with work wrapping up mid-December, I only had time for one destination before coming home for Christmas.  So I think I chose well with the trip to Tierra del Fuego.

Now, I need to focus on the hardest week of work in the whole year, then stabilize things before I move on.  I am thankful God granted me the opportunity to return to a land that I love and to have made it for a long stint so that I got to internalize it all.  Now, I am ready to leave Chile behind knowing I can always come “home” but ready to focus on my life in my real home…

Skiing When I Should Be Burning Up

I am getting to spend a heck of a lot of time in Chile lately, as in the last few months.  A great bonus is that it is winter here right now.  Since the Andes are LITERALLY right there, mountains + winter = skiing!

I hadn’t skied in like 7 yrs when ski season started here.  Ski resorts are within an hour, hour and a half from Santiago so I definitely had envisioned trekking up to the slopes and checking the Andes ski scene out…

By now, I have made a couple of day trips up to what some say is the best of the ski slopes around here, close to Santiago.  I am not sure it is the true but it does not matter to me.  The point was I was going to ski!  The place is Valle Nevado.

Driving up there involves first a set of 39 sharp curves, each numbered as you pass them but also with many curves that are unnumbered… I wonder if that is a ploy to keep the number of signs needing posting down or to not scare travelers with a much higher number of curves… Anyway, after that initial set, you drive a little bit on semi-flat terrain before you hit another set of curves, not as bad as the first set.  The landscape in this second part is amazing.  I must say that somewhere in the first set of curves you can look back towards Santiago and see part of the city – the Marriott hotel almost being the only recognizable thing as it is a tall orange rectangle!

I have to say getting going on skiing again was a little scary at first.  I had to find those legs!  After a couple of practice runs on greens, I finally made it to blues.  There was something different in the slopes and I can’t quite put my finger on it.  But, it was a phenomenal day to be at Valle Nevado with fresh snow from the day before – viva Chile, mierda!

The second trip to Valle Nevado was 4 weeks later – this past Saturday.  There had not been a lot of snowfall plus some of the snow had begun to melt.  So conditions were far from perfect.  Yet, it was fun and I was much more comfortable with my legs than the first time.  After one green run, my fellow skiers convinced me to try a red – so I went for it.  Reds are between a blue and a black for medium skilled or expert skiers.  After doing my first one (Diablada), I felt flattered.  I was at least a medium skilled skier!  We did that slope again and then we went for a longer red run called Sol.  I love it!  I did well not only going down steeper slopes but also on speed.  Now, they tended to have wide runs which made me more comfortable taking the risk.  Later in the day, I went down a run named Polka which on the map seemed easy for a blue.  One segment of it seemed like it must have been a black as it was not only sloped downward but sideways too and it was quite narrow.  I had to slide down 🙁

All in all, not only was I pretty damn happy about having moved up to reds and feeling comfortable with them but I also got to skip burning up in the summer from heck Atlanta has had!!  Next up:  Vail in 4 months?!

Heading on up!

 

Anyone out there who has visited Valle Nevado and other Chilean ski slopes?  If so, would love to hear how VN compares to other places in Chile.

“Unsuccessful” Visit to the Geysers del Tatio

One of the tours I wanted to make based on all the recommendations I got was to see the Geysers del Tatio, very close to the Bolivian border.

The day before the tour, as I was visiting the Lagunas Altiplanicas, our tour guide kept telling us how some people have gotten killed and a few more badly burned when they fall into one of the geysers.  I couldn’t quite comprehend at first and then became slightly horrified as he kept describing scenes he had witnessed of people who fell in.  The gory details of what happens after someone falls was not settling well with my stomach and I think my arms and legs were hurting just from thinking about burns.

So, with that talk as an introduction to the geysers, I prepared myself the night before for a wakeup all of 345AM to be picked up so that we could trek over to the geysers and catch them in their early morning glory, when they “blow”.  The pictures of the scene and others’ recommendations made me sign up for this torture of little sleep.  I did not realize the road there was going to be its own version of hell, not because of scary curves and cliffs but because it was very very rocky.  Now, I have been on dirt roads for hours in places like the Andes and Tanzania but this was way worse than anything I had experienced.  Perhaps it was my body not feeling well with the lack of sleep but I could swear I could feel my brain bumping against the inside of my skull!!!

We finally got there and it was absolutely freezing (something I was expecting).  The altitude also could be felt but didn’t really negatively impact me.  What did impact me was that the geysers, for some reason, did not blow that morning.  Sure, they spit out a little but nothing like what was expected.  Weeks later I heard from someone else that this time of the year isn’t propitious for visiting them – but the tour agencies in San Pedro de Atacama would never tell you that in advance…  I did get to snap some neat pictures that captured the colors the various minerals bring to the soil and water pools and the coffee the bus driver served us was heaven-sent on such a cold morning.

Geysers del Tatio in the Atacama Desert, Chile

Geysers del Tatio in the Atacama Desert, Chile

Geysers del Tatio in the Atacama Desert, Chile

The way back was not as bad as the way up because we went another way.  Thank God!  We visited a small village where the highlight, for me, was the church on the hill.

Having gone through no sleep, the bumpiest road on earth, and no “geyser show”, sure, I did regret taking the tour (something rare for me).  I am not sure I would gamble it again should I return to the Atacama.  I would say the landscape was pretty impressive, short of spectacular but to see it, one does not need to wake up that early!

El Valle de la Luna and the Laguna Cejar in the Atacama

As was recommended to me, I booked tours with a local agency from San Pedro de Atacama.  I certainly love driving myself around but this was a trip I am glad I didn’t do that in.  Perhaps on a future trip I would drive but the area is not consistently well labeled and some of the places to go are quite remote.  Our first day took us to the Valle de la Luna and the Laguna Cejar.

Valle de la Luna

A short drive from San Pedro, it was an ideal place to watch the sun set.  The mountains in the distance, anchored by Volcan Licancabur, changed colors as the sun set.  We also had a small amount of clouds which “wore” spectacular colors as the sun set.  We hiked up to a sort-of ridge and sat there until the sun went down.  It was a bit cold but we had coats and hunkered down against some rocks.  There was also a large sand dune next to the ridge and it provided me some good photo opps!  It was indeed a majestic sunset…

View of Volcan Licancabur

Sand. Footsteps.

Laguna Cejar

This laguna is a spot to enjoy the salty water by jumping in.  Of course, it was cold when we were there but apparently, it was tolerable.  I didn’t go prepared to jump in so I observed as others dipped in and floated in the salty water.  Of course, photo opps kept me entertained…

The sun and clouds above

Observing tourists observe the ever-present Volcan Licancabur

Of the two places, I could have missed the Laguna Cejar and not have missed tons but that could be because I didn’t jump in.  However, the Valle de la Luna is a must for sure!  I did not get to see the Valle de la Muerte or the Valle del Arco Iris but now I would look forward to visiting them should I ever return…

Why I Chose to Visit the World’s Driest Desert – the Atacama

Visiting a desert?  Isn’t it all just like dry and sandy?  Why?  I had been to the Sahara desert but mainly in the vicinity of the Nile River in Egypt.  And while it is likely not representative of the rest of the Sahara (opinions, readers?), I thought how different can they all be from each other?

Since I had the opportunity to spend a holiday weekend away from Santiago late in June, I decided to explore the Atacama.  There are 3 main areas of Chile that I want to see.  One I saw partially in 1991, the other 2 I had not seen.  The lake district down south near Puerto Montt I visited in 1991 but not fully.  In fact, I probably only “sampled” a fraction of the area.  But it is winter now and not the best time to go (I was set to go in March but the earthquake happened and killed the trip…).  The other area I am wanting to go to is Tierra del Fuego and las Torres del Paine.  But, again, it is winter…  So the third area on my top 3 was the Atacama and this seemed a great time to go.

Flying to Calama in the north requires flying over almost half of Chile’s length, abt 2 hrs (photo: http://www.finetravel.co.nz)

I heard it would be cold since some of the places to visit are in altitude (over 12,000 ft above sea level) but, at least, down in San Pedro de Atacama, things would not be so bad.  In another entry I cover the details of my “getting there”.

I didn’t have a strong notion what it was I was going to see prior to doing some research but it sounded different.  I was up for different.  I figured that seeing the desert at different times of day would offer great colors and images.  I also knew there were “salares” (salt lakes of sorts) that could offer great photo opps for a creative type with a brand new camera based on the pictures hanging on the wall of my hotel in Santiago.

Research, including talking to other visitors in Chile who had been there and locals as well as Internet research, showed me there was indeed quite a good bit to see and do.  My mind was more made up than it had been.  Among the key recommendations were:

–  Valle de la Luna

–  Valle de la Muerte

–  Valle del Arco Iris

–  Geysers del Tatio

–  Salar de Atacama

–  Lagunas Altiplanicas

–  Laguna Cejar

–  Night sky watching

So, the trip was born…

Other entries cover some of these (links above) and some learnings acquired along the way…

Any other suggestions for places to see in the Atacama?

Exploring the Atacama Desert – Getting to San Pedro de Atacama

Last weekend, I got to travel on the Chilean holiday to San Pedro de Atacama to explore the desert around it and its sights.  The flight from Santiago, bought in Chile, was under $250 and I could have gotten it cheaper had I bought it earlier.  Two co-workers were planning to travel with me but one “se rajó” so only two of us ended up going.

To get to San Pedro, we flew to Calama, a mining town, I believe sort of halfway between San Pedro and the coast (where Antofagasta is).  The airport is one of those small nice airports we all dream of flying in and out of but that we don’t want to live close to as it would offer few direct flights…  A $9 bus ride each way based on round trip purchase and one hour plus bus ride and we were in front of our hotel.

Hotels in San Pedro can be quite pricey, relatively speaking and especially on a holiday weekend.  However, I found Casa Don Tomás which at $106/night was quite reasonably priced.  The rooms were basic (no TV) but were clean and adequate with good sized bathroom.  Having no TV was actually quite nice as we had a few early, early mornings so not having TV prevented me being temped to watch it when I went to bed…  The hotel included breakfast but, also, they would make you a take-away breakfast for mornings when one woke up too early to go off and explore.  They also served dinner but I did not try it.  I did try their happy hour drinks and those were a good deal at 2 for 1…  From the hotel, we walked about 5 mins on a residential street to reach Caracoles, the main street in San Pedro.

We were advised to not rent a car and just shop around the various local touring agencies to arrange our trips to the main sights in the area.  This was really good advice for a number of reasons including the routes are not all properly signed and it would have been easy to get lost.  Also, not all the roads are in good conditions so someone more experienced in those roads was going to have an easier time of going around.  I did enjoy getting to meet other travelers along the way so that was another plus of going on these tours which ranged from 10 to 20 people in size.  We used the NOMADE agency whose owner, Mauricio, was very attentive to detail and on time.

San Pedro as a town has few of its own attractions but it is a perfect base  for a large number of places to go see and experience.  While Calama is a larger town with probably more options in terms of accommodation, San Pedro likely has more charm, more of a tourist crowd (in the good sense of that term), and is closer to the places to go see which shaves off a good deal of time.

Main Street San Pedro de Atacama, Chile - gateway to the desert

Main Street San Pedro (with restaurants, shops, tour agents)

There are some really good restaurants intown so just walk up and down the street and check them out.  One even has an inner courtyard with a bonfire going on at night!

More about San Pedro de Atacama:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_de_Atacama

My Return to Santiago Post-Earthquake

I left Santiago the Thursday before the incredible events of that Saturday morning in late February 2010.  As I woke up that Saturday morning at home, I looked at my Blackberry and I had a news alert about an 8.8 earthquake in Chile.  My heart stopped.  I had just left there.  I have friends and co-workers there.  Immediately I turned on the TV to hear about what had happened.  Was Santiago heavily impacted?  Were my friends OK?  I also set up shop with my laptop getting Chilean local TV (thank you Internet).  Between the US-based news network and the local Chilean one on my PC, I had a good amount of info coming in.  I sat like that for the majority of that Saturday taking every bit of info in.  (I was exhausted and over-stimulated by the end of the day.)

I slowly gathered that Santiago had mostly been spared, though heavily shaken.  I learned about the destruction in Concepción, Talcahuano and other places that I have not visited.  I heard about the tsunami and I heard the news clip of the Chilean President saying “there was no tsunami concerns” (this info she was given, she didn’t make it up).  Eventually, I finally began to hear from friends and co-workers.  Everyone seemed to be fine.  But, in a way, they were not.  Most seemed very shaken (figuratively).  Aftershocks continued to happen, some of them didn’t feel safe in the buildings they were at, water and power cuts were going on, etc.

My ex-pat co-workers finally were gotten out of the country a few days later via a chartered flight to Buenos Aires.  The stories of the shaking they experienced that night were pretty incredible and scary.  The shaking lasted anywhere between 3 and 4 minutes.  Some could not stay standing up during it.  The worst, I am told, was the noise while the shaking was happening…

So, after some weeks of travel freeze, we were allowed to go back to Chile by our company.  I wanted to go and see everyone but I was not sure how I would feel when aftershocks occurred.  We landed in Santiago and, as expected, the jetway was not operable so we deplaned the old-fashioned way and were taken by bus to the immigration area.  You could see the damage to the false ceiling and things like that.  Once we cleared customs, we had to walk to a tent area on the parking lot to get to the taxi area.  The taxi area had been moved partly due to the collapse of a pedestrian bridge in the departures area right above where taxis normally wait on line for arrivals.

Driving into the city to go to the hotel, I did not notice damage.  Once at the hotel, some damage was still in evidence in the atrium glass ceiling.  Upon closer inspection I could see small cracks in different parts of the building.  But, it did not seem there had been much damage (I should say, by the time I arrived).  Once I went towards the city center, where the offices are, the damage was more visible as that is an older part of town that probably predates building codes that kept many Chileans alive through the earthquake and the many subsequent aftershocks.  A lot of the plaster outside of buildings had cracked or fallen, including in our own building.  In some cases, walls bulged or cracked.  At work, the cracks were quite evident all through the building.  Saddest of all was seeing the damage to the church on the Plaza Yungay near our favorite “sanguïchería” (Chilean-style sandwich sandwich shop).  The cracks are everywhere and especially near the base of the belltower.  It is not a magnificent church, just an old local church that I find charming.

Quake Damage near Work

In the 2 weeks I spent there I felt one aftershock, though there had been a few.  They were all small so probably the reason I didn’t feel them – but the locals did.  Invariably at different moments, people would ask “did you feel it?”  And I would go “feel what?”  “La réplica” (the aftershock).  The only one I felt (a reasonable 4.5) I felt only because a co-worker I was with said “can you feel it?  it is shaking” as he pointed as his computer flat-screen monitor.  I told him “that’s because I am writing on your desk and moving it some”.  He then pointed to the window blinds, surely not impacted by my writing movements, and yes, they were moving.  It lasted like 30 seconds and was not much of anything but it was a reminder, once more, of the recent events.  I realized that the locals having gone through that incredible earthquake have now a heightened sensitivity that I, not having been there, do not have.  The stories of the weeks after the earthquake were about the constant aftershocks, many of them not trivial, like the one I felt.  I remember being in calls with folks in Chile in the 3 weeks after the quake and at random times, they would go “hold on, it is shaking”.  Some times they would resume talking, sometimes they would say, “we are leaving the room, it is a strong one”.

I left Chile yesterday.  Firstly, I hope Chile is spared more quakes other than the small aftershocks.  Actually, I hope they are spared even those.  They have had enough.  Secondly, I hope Chileans recognize that their seriousness about code and having responsible governments has paid off in saved lives, in lower damage and repairs needed, and it mental peace about their safety.  Thirdly, I am glad I did not go through the 8.8 as I don’t know how I would have handled it.  And finally, I can’t wait to get back to such an awesome place and hope that those who have not been to Chile and explored its beauty still try do so and don’t let fear of tremors keep them from going…

What Makes All the Difference on a Business Trip…

I am sitting on the 22nd floor of my hotel room in Santiago wanting to catch up on my writing and talk about my trip to Valparaiso, Chile, catch up on earthquake impacts to a trip to the lake district, and other discoveries about Santiago.  But I’m too distracted.  Too distracted with work.  With getting to the U.S. for most weekends and hurrying through keeping in touch with those I love back home.  With planning a vacation with a cousin to Bulgaria and Denmark with a 1-day trip to say hi to a friend in Sweden.

But what is compelling me to sit in front of the PC for yet another 1/2 hour is wanting to talk about those people who are strangers to you for the most part but who make your time away from home -at a hotel in another city other than your home- get as close to “real” as you get when on business trips.

I normally haven’t had my own access to the “special” lounge at my regular Santiago hotel (Marriott) but get access normally by going with colleagues who do have access.  Of course, after this week, I get access on my own right because of reaching the 50 stays in one calendar year.  Anyway, through past visits, we have met some of the staff at this special lounge.  Some are strict about the rules that say at 830 PM the wine and other liquor is retired from access.  And then there are those employees who seem to get that we all don’t just come to another country on business because we work 9 to 5 and have the luxury to get back to the hotel between 630-830PM to enjoy the special treats…

Those employees who realize that the key to great customer service is about making us, the weary travelers, have a sense that we can get that one (or two…) free glasses of wine at a lounge so we can sorta feel maybe we could be at home.  Don’t get me wrong, I still have sat in the lobby and paid for drinks when able to go to the special lounge at the “right” hours – the scene at the lobby can be quite interesting.  So I am not just after a free drink or two or three or…  But going to the lounge does also give you contact with other human beings who recognize you and through the small talk make you feel you are not just a stranger, a number, a credit card at this hotel.

So, to these folks I say, salud.  You are doing an awesome job and I hope your employer, Marriott, realizes that you are doing more to retain my loyalty than even the ability to use my points gets them.  Emilio, Fernando, Katherine, Baruk:  may your employer realize the value you are to them and I wish you the best.  Thanks for helping us feel not totally away from a place like home. You guys are piola.

Santiago Visit Continues – Lucky Me

So, I came back to Santiago after 18 yrs.  That was 3 weeks ago.  I went to the US and then I turned right around to come down to Chile!  Crazy?  Heck, no.  I don’t mind coming to this town and country!  I am traveling here for business but seldom is business travel the vehicle to get back to a place I want to keep coming back to…

On the first trip, I traveled 3 hours south of Santiago to an area right outside of the town of Curicó.  Why Curicó?  Well, my friend’s son was competing in the national championship of Chilean motocross, of course!  I have never been to a motocross race before and it was definitely a fun event to be at.  But the best part was the drive down there with the Andes to my left and the lesser range of mountains to my right.  The views were great.  However, though I stayed in the shade most of the time, I got quite sunburnt unintentionally.  One has to remember that the sun here hits harder!

Mountain biking in Curico, Chile

That first week, most of my free time was spent with fellow co-workers on the same trip as me.  But I did get to sample two great local restaurants, one in Bellavista and the other, well, in a part of town whose name I can’t remember.  The former was a seafood place in a very artsy-bohemian part of town named Bellavista.  Pablo Neruda’s (former!) home is located there.  Also, that is the place where you go to go up Cerro Santa Lucía for great city views (on the less-smoggy days…).  Bellavista is practically littered with cheap bars and eateries where lots of young people hang out as well as better dineries and an area called Patio Bellavista with good shopping and more places to eat and have a drink.  Azul Profundo, the name of the restaurant on Constitución 111, was simply outstanding.  The seafood, as pretty much anywhere here, is quite fresh.  http://www.flip360.cl/ver_local.php?id=1035&ver=panorama&idPanorama=1035&categoria=51

Azul Profundo restaurant in Barrio Bellavista, Santiago, Chile

I then was taken another night to a Peruvian restaurant called La Mar (actually, a ¨cevichería”) on Nueva Costanera (http://www.biggi.cl/4DCGI/Noticia466).  It seems Peruvian restaurants are the bomb these days not sure if because more Peruvians live here or just because.  This was a classy place with very cleverly designed indoor and outdoor seating areas.  You can go there for sure and sit outside and people-watch (both in the restaurant and also those who walk down the streets).  It is located in a very nice residential neighborhood and I highly recommend their food!

I am staying at the local Marriott (OK, this is not a backpacking it kind of trip! it is a beautiful building!  As I was looking for a pic of the 40-story hotel, I found a Spanish wikipedia entry that says the building can stand an 8.0 earthquake – I will sleep well tonight!) where 3 weeks before I came, a small bomb was found and detonated outside.  It is a little weird because I don’t associate Chile with crime like that.  So, I remain undisturbed about it.  The hotel has a good sitting area downstairs where in the evening between 7 and 9 PM they have happy hour with free hors d’oeuvres.  I have once or twice opted to go for pisco sours (yes, more than 1!!) and these hors d’oeuvres for dinner.  Don’t get me wrong, there is FINE dining in this city for sure.  But after nights of going out, it is nice to just camp.  The added bonus is that it seems that locals like to come to this happy hour so you get to be with locals though you are at the hotel.  I have noticed that every night there are several groups of local women who apparently choose to meet here to have a night out at one of the nice hotels in town.  I do not exaggerate, these women look like upper class folks who meet here for kicks (it isn’t a cheap place so my observation is likely not off the mark).

HotelMarriott.jpg

Next to the hotel there is a very nice mall called Parque Arauco.  It has the usual types of stores but also a great outdoor area with many restaurants.  El Otro Sitio, a Peruvian (!) restaurant, was quite good and reasonable in terms of price.  In these Peruvian restaurants, ceviche is typically the draw, as only Peruvians can make it – phenomenal stuff!

Alright, I intend to think about what these two quick back-to-back trips have meant to me and I have to say that the main conclusion is how awesome it is that today I feel as strongly as I did 18 yrs ago that I love this city and this country.

Fast Forward Santiago, Really Fast: from 1991 to 2009

I arrived in Santiago de Chile this morning to a different airport and entrance fees than in 1991.  Why charge an entrance fee of $132 is beyond me (yeah, yeah reciprocity; that’s what you call it when you don’t want to admit you are just as capitalistic as everyone else…).  And why not have it a surcharge on the price of the plane ticket and make me stand in another line after landing is WAY beyond me.  I thought Chile was more modern than that.  Maybe it is indeed a piece of Europe in South America after all…  After standing in line for about 20 minutes, at least I was able to use a credit card to pay – of course, in the line I had to listen to cheery, chatty tourists from my own country yap away when all I wanted was silence to slowly wake up (no coffee in me yet…).  [Note, Jan 2018:  The reciprocity fee no longer exists!]

It was neat to see a friend I had not seen in about 15 years who then drove me into the city proper on a highway I did not recognize, part of it going under the river.  We didn’t have to go through the city streets in order to make it to the opposite end of town where I used to live the 3 months I lived in Santiago way back or where he now lives.  A nice highway running by the river is a welcome change.  And, boy, was there change in store!  While Santiago was to me quite livable a city back in 1991 and not lacking in terms of places to go, eat, and shop, today’s Santiago is a much more modern and livable place than I remember.  Fast forward indeed 18 years!

I barely recognized parts of town that used to be my stomping grounds.  Yes, that is to be expected after 18 years but there was so little that actually was like I remembered to leave me floored.  Parts of town like Sanhattan and El Bosque are way more developed than they used to be by the building of centers of business.  Parque Arauco is similar inside but a whole new invention outside (though I recognize the McD’s I used to eat at after playing racquetball!).

Busy Av. Providencia was barely recognizable too!  Storefronts and restaurants of course change even just a few years apart.  A pedestrian alley here and a residential street there did look very familiar but so much has changed…   The building I used to work in is there (the company is not), the building I used to live in is there (though no longer an apart-hotel).  Sections of town like Bellavista or Calle Suecia are still there and still retain an air of what I remembered – whew!

All in all, the residential areas that I used to know still have that quiet air around them.  The people are still interesting but not obnoxious.  After eating at Eladio‘s in Calle Pio Nono in Bellavista, I can say the food is:  still excellent.   And after a good bottle, I can say the wine: still good.  I still would not mind living here after all this growth and change!

But the one constant that truly tells me I have come back is the mountains at the edge of the city.  Those mountains with the snowcapped tops that used to greet me every morning when I would wake up are still there and like will be there way after I am gone:  the Andes.  I have come “home” after all.

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