My Return to Santiago Post-Earthquake

I left Santiago the Thursday before the incredible events of that Saturday morning in late February 2010.  As I woke up that Saturday morning at home, I looked at my Blackberry and I had a news alert about an 8.8 earthquake in Chile.  My heart stopped.  I had just left there.  I have friends and co-workers there.  Immediately I turned on the TV to hear about what had happened.  Was Santiago heavily impacted?  Were my friends OK?  I also set up shop with my laptop getting Chilean local TV (thank you Internet).  Between the US-based news network and the local Chilean one on my PC, I had a good amount of info coming in.  I sat like that for the majority of that Saturday taking every bit of info in.  (I was exhausted and over-stimulated by the end of the day.)

I slowly gathered that Santiago had mostly been spared, though heavily shaken.  I learned about the destruction in Concepción, Talcahuano and other places that I have not visited.  I heard about the tsunami and I heard the news clip of the Chilean President saying “there was no tsunami concerns” (this info she was given, she didn’t make it up).  Eventually, I finally began to hear from friends and co-workers.  Everyone seemed to be fine.  But, in a way, they were not.  Most seemed very shaken (figuratively).  Aftershocks continued to happen, some of them didn’t feel safe in the buildings they were at, water and power cuts were going on, etc.

My ex-pat co-workers finally were gotten out of the country a few days later via a chartered flight to Buenos Aires.  The stories of the shaking they experienced that night were pretty incredible and scary.  The shaking lasted anywhere between 3 and 4 minutes.  Some could not stay standing up during it.  The worst, I am told, was the noise while the shaking was happening…

So, after some weeks of travel freeze, we were allowed to go back to Chile by our company.  I wanted to go and see everyone but I was not sure how I would feel when aftershocks occurred.  We landed in Santiago and, as expected, the jetway was not operable so we deplaned the old-fashioned way and were taken by bus to the immigration area.  You could see the damage to the false ceiling and things like that.  Once we cleared customs, we had to walk to a tent area on the parking lot to get to the taxi area.  The taxi area had been moved partly due to the collapse of a pedestrian bridge in the departures area right above where taxis normally wait on line for arrivals.

Driving into the city to go to the hotel, I did not notice damage.  Once at the hotel, some damage was still in evidence in the atrium glass ceiling.  Upon closer inspection I could see small cracks in different parts of the building.  But, it did not seem there had been much damage (I should say, by the time I arrived).  Once I went towards the city center, where the offices are, the damage was more visible as that is an older part of town that probably predates building codes that kept many Chileans alive through the earthquake and the many subsequent aftershocks.  A lot of the plaster outside of buildings had cracked or fallen, including in our own building.  In some cases, walls bulged or cracked.  At work, the cracks were quite evident all through the building.  Saddest of all was seeing the damage to the church on the Plaza Yungay near our favorite “sanguïchería” (Chilean-style sandwich sandwich shop).  The cracks are everywhere and especially near the base of the belltower.  It is not a magnificent church, just an old local church that I find charming.

Quake Damage near Work

In the 2 weeks I spent there I felt one aftershock, though there had been a few.  They were all small so probably the reason I didn’t feel them – but the locals did.  Invariably at different moments, people would ask “did you feel it?”  And I would go “feel what?”  “La réplica” (the aftershock).  The only one I felt (a reasonable 4.5) I felt only because a co-worker I was with said “can you feel it?  it is shaking” as he pointed as his computer flat-screen monitor.  I told him “that’s because I am writing on your desk and moving it some”.  He then pointed to the window blinds, surely not impacted by my writing movements, and yes, they were moving.  It lasted like 30 seconds and was not much of anything but it was a reminder, once more, of the recent events.  I realized that the locals having gone through that incredible earthquake have now a heightened sensitivity that I, not having been there, do not have.  The stories of the weeks after the earthquake were about the constant aftershocks, many of them not trivial, like the one I felt.  I remember being in calls with folks in Chile in the 3 weeks after the quake and at random times, they would go “hold on, it is shaking”.  Some times they would resume talking, sometimes they would say, “we are leaving the room, it is a strong one”.

I left Chile yesterday.  Firstly, I hope Chile is spared more quakes other than the small aftershocks.  Actually, I hope they are spared even those.  They have had enough.  Secondly, I hope Chileans recognize that their seriousness about code and having responsible governments has paid off in saved lives, in lower damage and repairs needed, and it mental peace about their safety.  Thirdly, I am glad I did not go through the 8.8 as I don’t know how I would have handled it.  And finally, I can’t wait to get back to such an awesome place and hope that those who have not been to Chile and explored its beauty still try do so and don’t let fear of tremors keep them from going…

What Makes All the Difference on a Business Trip…

I am sitting on the 22nd floor of my hotel room in Santiago wanting to catch up on my writing and talk about my trip to Valparaiso, Chile, catch up on earthquake impacts to a trip to the lake district, and other discoveries about Santiago.  But I’m too distracted.  Too distracted with work.  With getting to the U.S. for most weekends and hurrying through keeping in touch with those I love back home.  With planning a vacation with a cousin to Bulgaria and Denmark with a 1-day trip to say hi to a friend in Sweden.

But what is compelling me to sit in front of the PC for yet another 1/2 hour is wanting to talk about those people who are strangers to you for the most part but who make your time away from home -at a hotel in another city other than your home- get as close to “real” as you get when on business trips.

I normally haven’t had my own access to the “special” lounge at my regular Santiago hotel (Marriott) but get access normally by going with colleagues who do have access.  Of course, after this week, I get access on my own right because of reaching the 50 stays in one calendar year.  Anyway, through past visits, we have met some of the staff at this special lounge.  Some are strict about the rules that say at 830 PM the wine and other liquor is retired from access.  And then there are those employees who seem to get that we all don’t just come to another country on business because we work 9 to 5 and have the luxury to get back to the hotel between 630-830PM to enjoy the special treats…

Those employees who realize that the key to great customer service is about making us, the weary travelers, have a sense that we can get that one (or two…) free glasses of wine at a lounge so we can sorta feel maybe we could be at home.  Don’t get me wrong, I still have sat in the lobby and paid for drinks when able to go to the special lounge at the “right” hours – the scene at the lobby can be quite interesting.  So I am not just after a free drink or two or three or…  But going to the lounge does also give you contact with other human beings who recognize you and through the small talk make you feel you are not just a stranger, a number, a credit card at this hotel.

So, to these folks I say, salud.  You are doing an awesome job and I hope your employer, Marriott, realizes that you are doing more to retain my loyalty than even the ability to use my points gets them.  Emilio, Fernando, Katherine, Baruk:  may your employer realize the value you are to them and I wish you the best.  Thanks for helping us feel not totally away from a place like home. You guys are piola.

Mendoza Wine Tour

As I said in my previous entry about Mendoza, wines are the other good reason to go to Mendoza – the capital of wine in Argentina.

Wine tasting in Mendoza

I had Saturday to play around so I opted for a tour of several wineries as I didn’t feel like renting a car and driving around solo in unfamiliar territory.  It was a great choice.  The wine tour I chose was offered with Trout and Wine.  The tour cost about $135 lasted from 9AM until 5PM and covered 4 different wineries.  At one of the wineries we were to have a 5 course lunch paired with different wines.  The tour was a great idea as the wineries were guaranteed to be open and ready to receive you (though I sensed that would not have been a problem in this season).

Land around a winery in Mendoza, Argentina

At one of the wineries

All the wineries offered us a tour of the facilities as well as a tasting either by sitting down at a pre-set table or by standing around a bar or table (except for the lunch one where we sampled wines paired with the various lunch courses).

Wine barrels in Mendoza wineries in Argentina

Heaven

Wine tanks in Mendoza wineries in Argentina

Heaven, part dos!

We visited Terrazas which sat us down at a table and where we felt we were just having a chat with a knowledgeable friend about wines.

At Belasco de Baquedano, we were treated to the aroma room where you can walk around and try smelling different scents to train your nose.  I actually tried to do the smelling blind to see if I could detect the aromas.  I didn’t do too well, I must admit…  But the concept was phenomenal.

Aroma Room at Belasco de Baquedano winery in Mendoza, Argentina

Aroma Room at Belasco de Baquedano

Our tour guide, Cecilia, had worked at one of the wineries in the past and knew a lot about wine.  That, combined with the on-purpose small size of the tour group, made for a great day.  Along with me were a Danish father and son, and a California couple.  We enjoyed talking throughout the day and exchanging travel stories.

I had asked Cecilia about a good parrillada place for dinner (meaning, a good local place) and she recommended Estancia La Florencia on Ave. Sarmiento which was really a building away from my hotel.  The California couple and I decided to go together for dinner and we had a fabulous dinner in a mostly-locals only restaurant with great atmosphere.  It was the perfect place for a piece of Argentine steak!

Wine tour ends – Cross back the Andes!

As I flew back Sunday, I got to see Mt. Aconcagua (tallest mountain in the Americas, north of 22,000 feet).  Unfortunately, it was on the opposite side of the plane so I could not get a good picture of it but I did manage to get a few good pictures from my side of the plane.  Enjoy!

Crossing the Andes by plane - view of the mountains!

The awesome Andes

 

 

Crossing the Andes by plane - view of the mountains!

 

 

A Weekend in Mendoza, Argentina

My current business trip to Santiago is for 2 weeks so I had a weekend in between to either:  walk around Santiago and re-discover parts of it, opt to go and visit southern Chile (Puerto Montt or Pucón, for example; both of which I had visited in 1991), or go to nearby Mendoza, Argentina (capital of Argentine wine country).  Because it is peak season in the south (high airfares, no rental cars available, and only 2 days) and due to a colleague strongly recommending Mendoza, I chose the quick trip over the mountains to Mendoza, Argentina, a place I have been wanting to visit because of its wines.

Mendoza, as the eagle flies, is pretty darn close to Santiago.  However, the magnificent Andes sit in between.  So the drive takes 6-7 hours over spectacular landscape from what I hear.  However, I also hear customs on either side of the border can be quite bad so for a 2-day weekend visit, I had to fly.  Luckily, LAN had an $82 fare (taxes included) and a 30-40 min flight time so it all became a no-brainer for me.   My colleague suggested a moderately priced hotel ($60/night) in a great location so that eliminated guesswork and research time which I didn’t have.  She also got me some recommendations for restaurants which was great.  Flying over the Andes brings with it incredible winds and both flights gave me a run for my money in terms of scary moments!

Exploring the town of Mendoza proper

I arrived in Mendoza around 5 PM and had no problem getting a taxi at the airport at the rate I had been told ($23A or $8US).  The Hotel Internacional where I stayed was OK.  The room was not as nice as the pics on the website but the hotel was quite decent for the price.  For the $60/night, it included a good breakfast and wi-fi.  The location was great, surrounded by good eateries and close to the center of town.

I walked the town Friday after I arrived and on Sunday morning.  The contrast couldn’t have been any bigger:  the pedestrian part of Sarmiento (the main street) was a beehive of activity Friday but almost deserted Sunday morning.  It sports cafes and shops and you can see the locals coming out from their homes to enjoy fresh air – and likely “cooler” temperatures than their own homes.

Calle Sarmiento in Mendoza, Argentina

The not yet crowded Calle Sarmiento

Calle Sarmiento in Mendoza, Argentina

Calle Sarmiento begins to pick up customers!

Mendoza is very, very hot this time of the year (90s – but dry) and I doubt everyone has AC at home.  So it is nicer to sit in a plaza and enjoy some breezes under the shade of the many trees that line the streets of Mendoza (an odd thing considering it rarely ever rains here and that it is very arid land; the answer is that snow melt is captured and then released to the city and farms via an ingenious curbside open flow system).

Water collection from snow melt curbside in Mendoza, Argentina

The ingenious way to collect water!

Sunday morning, I got to walk almost in total solitude around town, covering all major squares and parks in the center.  Mendoza struck me as a town that would be probably a great place to live as it is pleasant, clean, and not chaotic as Buenos Aires.  At the same time, the time I spent walking around was probably all that a tourist needs to do in the town itself while visiting (surely, I am omitting some museums or theaters) outside of just chilling (in which case a tourist can do a LOT of that perhaps while enjoying wine, beer or ice cream at a café…).

Bank building in Mendoza, Argentina

Government building in Mendoza, Argentina

Need I say? A government building, of course…

Statue in Mendoza, Argentina

Now, while the city is not a grand collection of sites for tourist interest, there are 2 things that make it quite a good choice destination to see:  1.  the food.  2.  wine country.  Food, I will share here.  Wine

Food

I ate at Mi Tierra on Friday night where I enjoyed empanadas to start and deer raviolis for dinner.  The food was definitely good but I wouldn’t call it spectacular.  The ambience of the restaurant is outstanding.  (Watch out:  the menu offer is only valid if you pay cash!)

Mi Tierra restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina

Mi Tierra

Saturday night, I ate at La Florencia on the corner of Sarmiento and Peru, a few steps away from my hotel.  This is not the same type of fancy restaurant than Mi Tierra (or a couple of the other restaurants recommended by my colleague, like Azafrán).  It feels very local (in fact, most of the customers seemed either local or, at least, Argentinian) and was highly recommended by my wine tour guide.  She was right!  I was wanting just a normal Argentine piece of steak and fries and this place was PERFECT!  The menu was quite broad and everything I saw served looked fantastic.  We sat there for 3 hours and we felt we were at home.  THAT’S the experience I was wanting and I got it!

La Florencia restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina, great for parrillada

 

I definitely think I chose wisely how to spend a weekend.  While another day would have allowed me to go to the base of Aconcagua (I really wanted to do that), I cannot complain because I did get to sample great food and a taste of life in this western town!

Santiago Visit Continues – Lucky Me

So, I came back to Santiago after 18 yrs.  That was 3 weeks ago.  I went to the US and then I turned right around to come down to Chile!  Crazy?  Heck, no.  I don’t mind coming to this town and country!  I am traveling here for business but seldom is business travel the vehicle to get back to a place I want to keep coming back to…

On the first trip, I traveled 3 hours south of Santiago to an area right outside of the town of Curicó.  Why Curicó?  Well, my friend’s son was competing in the national championship of Chilean motocross, of course!  I have never been to a motocross race before and it was definitely a fun event to be at.  But the best part was the drive down there with the Andes to my left and the lesser range of mountains to my right.  The views were great.  However, though I stayed in the shade most of the time, I got quite sunburnt unintentionally.  One has to remember that the sun here hits harder!

Mountain biking in Curico, Chile

That first week, most of my free time was spent with fellow co-workers on the same trip as me.  But I did get to sample two great local restaurants, one in Bellavista and the other, well, in a part of town whose name I can’t remember.  The former was a seafood place in a very artsy-bohemian part of town named Bellavista.  Pablo Neruda’s (former!) home is located there.  Also, that is the place where you go to go up Cerro Santa Lucía for great city views (on the less-smoggy days…).  Bellavista is practically littered with cheap bars and eateries where lots of young people hang out as well as better dineries and an area called Patio Bellavista with good shopping and more places to eat and have a drink.  Azul Profundo, the name of the restaurant on Constitución 111, was simply outstanding.  The seafood, as pretty much anywhere here, is quite fresh.  http://www.flip360.cl/ver_local.php?id=1035&ver=panorama&idPanorama=1035&categoria=51

Azul Profundo restaurant in Barrio Bellavista, Santiago, Chile

I then was taken another night to a Peruvian restaurant called La Mar (actually, a ¨cevichería”) on Nueva Costanera (http://www.biggi.cl/4DCGI/Noticia466).  It seems Peruvian restaurants are the bomb these days not sure if because more Peruvians live here or just because.  This was a classy place with very cleverly designed indoor and outdoor seating areas.  You can go there for sure and sit outside and people-watch (both in the restaurant and also those who walk down the streets).  It is located in a very nice residential neighborhood and I highly recommend their food!

I am staying at the local Marriott (OK, this is not a backpacking it kind of trip! it is a beautiful building!  As I was looking for a pic of the 40-story hotel, I found a Spanish wikipedia entry that says the building can stand an 8.0 earthquake – I will sleep well tonight!) where 3 weeks before I came, a small bomb was found and detonated outside.  It is a little weird because I don’t associate Chile with crime like that.  So, I remain undisturbed about it.  The hotel has a good sitting area downstairs where in the evening between 7 and 9 PM they have happy hour with free hors d’oeuvres.  I have once or twice opted to go for pisco sours (yes, more than 1!!) and these hors d’oeuvres for dinner.  Don’t get me wrong, there is FINE dining in this city for sure.  But after nights of going out, it is nice to just camp.  The added bonus is that it seems that locals like to come to this happy hour so you get to be with locals though you are at the hotel.  I have noticed that every night there are several groups of local women who apparently choose to meet here to have a night out at one of the nice hotels in town.  I do not exaggerate, these women look like upper class folks who meet here for kicks (it isn’t a cheap place so my observation is likely not off the mark).

HotelMarriott.jpg

Next to the hotel there is a very nice mall called Parque Arauco.  It has the usual types of stores but also a great outdoor area with many restaurants.  El Otro Sitio, a Peruvian (!) restaurant, was quite good and reasonable in terms of price.  In these Peruvian restaurants, ceviche is typically the draw, as only Peruvians can make it – phenomenal stuff!

Alright, I intend to think about what these two quick back-to-back trips have meant to me and I have to say that the main conclusion is how awesome it is that today I feel as strongly as I did 18 yrs ago that I love this city and this country.

Fast Forward Santiago, Really Fast: from 1991 to 2009

I arrived in Santiago de Chile this morning to a different airport and entrance fees than in 1991.  Why charge an entrance fee of $132 is beyond me (yeah, yeah reciprocity; that’s what you call it when you don’t want to admit you are just as capitalistic as everyone else…).  And why not have it a surcharge on the price of the plane ticket and make me stand in another line after landing is WAY beyond me.  I thought Chile was more modern than that.  Maybe it is indeed a piece of Europe in South America after all…  After standing in line for about 20 minutes, at least I was able to use a credit card to pay – of course, in the line I had to listen to cheery, chatty tourists from my own country yap away when all I wanted was silence to slowly wake up (no coffee in me yet…).  [Note, Jan 2018:  The reciprocity fee no longer exists!]

It was neat to see a friend I had not seen in about 15 years who then drove me into the city proper on a highway I did not recognize, part of it going under the river.  We didn’t have to go through the city streets in order to make it to the opposite end of town where I used to live the 3 months I lived in Santiago way back or where he now lives.  A nice highway running by the river is a welcome change.  And, boy, was there change in store!  While Santiago was to me quite livable a city back in 1991 and not lacking in terms of places to go, eat, and shop, today’s Santiago is a much more modern and livable place than I remember.  Fast forward indeed 18 years!

I barely recognized parts of town that used to be my stomping grounds.  Yes, that is to be expected after 18 years but there was so little that actually was like I remembered to leave me floored.  Parts of town like Sanhattan and El Bosque are way more developed than they used to be by the building of centers of business.  Parque Arauco is similar inside but a whole new invention outside (though I recognize the McD’s I used to eat at after playing racquetball!).

Busy Av. Providencia was barely recognizable too!  Storefronts and restaurants of course change even just a few years apart.  A pedestrian alley here and a residential street there did look very familiar but so much has changed…   The building I used to work in is there (the company is not), the building I used to live in is there (though no longer an apart-hotel).  Sections of town like Bellavista or Calle Suecia are still there and still retain an air of what I remembered – whew!

All in all, the residential areas that I used to know still have that quiet air around them.  The people are still interesting but not obnoxious.  After eating at Eladio‘s in Calle Pio Nono in Bellavista, I can say the food is:  still excellent.   And after a good bottle, I can say the wine: still good.  I still would not mind living here after all this growth and change!

But the one constant that truly tells me I have come back is the mountains at the edge of the city.  Those mountains with the snowcapped tops that used to greet me every morning when I would wake up are still there and like will be there way after I am gone:  the Andes.  I have come “home” after all.

Back to Chile – What I Hope to Enjoy Again

It has been a while since I write on the blog.  It has been a busy time as I have been on job search.  But, that period is coming to an end and, lo and behold, my next job will start with a business trip to Chile.

Lo and behold for many reasons.  One, though the job is in the States, my first day will take place visiting the Chilean operations of the company.  Two, I could only have dreamed that my next job had an international angle to it but it turns out it produces that angle from the get-go.  And three, I worked in Chile back in 1991 greatly enjoying the place, the lifestyle, and the people and, yet, I never got to go back (I did try).  It has been a long 18 years and I finally get to fulfill the desire to go back.  Will El Tallarin Gordo still serve as good a meal as it did back then (I do know it exists still thanks to the Internet)?  Does Pollo al Coñac still exist in Lo Barnechea?  Will I get to visit Los Dominicos again to make some purchases of Chilean arts and crafts?  Does the Pizza Hut near the offices where I worked still exist?  Does Coppola still serve wonderful ice cream?  (notice most of these are about food!)

I do not have to wonder about re-connecting with my friends as we managed to re-connect after that odd period between 1991 and the late 90s bridging over the period when people did not have emails or laptops to the new highly connected world of today with email, Facebook, Skype, etc.  I will get to see my friends and, by now, their kids.  I also hope to do at least a quick drive-about the old hangouts for memories’ sake.  Always healthy for me. 

I do expect Santiago to be totally transformed.  I was there in the aftermath of Pinochet as Chile was beginning to come of age after the close of 2 decades of Pinochet.  Chile was under a construction boom at the  time and I hear that boom kept on going years after I left.  What was new then (e.g., the Hyatt) will be rather old by now.

I long to eat palta York.  Drink a Chilean pisco sour.  Eat one of those Chilean sandwiches whose main ingredient is mayonnaise, then the bread, and then a filet of pork.  Oh, and Chilean wine, of course.  I long to see the amazing Andes, which greeted me every morning when I woke up as my bedroom faced these magnificent mountains and I left my curtains open at night so I could have them be the first thing I saw every morning…

With these random thoughts I wrap up this entry.  I will certainly write more once I am there and share my observations and reflections of a city likely transformed since I last saw it.  Yet, I hope I will feel as if I were going back home after a long exile…

If anyone has recommendations of good places to eat these days from hole-in-the-walls to nicer places, please share.  Though I won’t be able to spend time sightseeing per se, drop your suggestions on that too as it may help others!  Vamos po’!

Roaming Around Panama, Coast to Coast

I visited Panama to see relatives and enjoy a little low-key sightseeing beyond my usual haunts of Panama City and the Pearl archipelago.  It started with an unusual stop for a tourist…

Witnessing the good work of the Missionaries of Charity

One day during my visit, we visited the house of the Missionaries of Charity (Mother Teresa’s order).  My aunt volunteers there every day and she wanted to show us the place.  WOW, these nuns do incredible work with those who have nothing and who are the worse-off of the poor and sick.  Amazing.  The nuns themselves come from all over the world and many actually come from India.  It is neat to hear their Spanish with a very slight Indian accent.  Later, when we drove to the other side of Panama, to the town of Colón, we visited the other house these Missionaries have in Panama.  So in one weekend I covered all their houses in Panama!  Anyway, kind and selfless work.

Colón, a true Caribbean town in Panama

Colón, on the Caribbean end of the Panama Canal (Panama City is on the Pacific end of the Canal), is most definitely a Caribbean town.  The architecture, the people, and something in the air just made me feel I was in the Caribbean.  Interesting how less than 50 miles distance can make such a big difference!  I was told the road was really bad (the new highway is still being built but is close to being finished) but, actually, it didn’t seem that bad to me.  Perhaps I was expecting rural Tanzania type of road conditions…  Anyhow, the drive took an hour and a half and it will be very nice when this highway is finished as it should take an hour or less.   The drive is scenic though my relatives said it wasn’t totally safe.  Colón is the second largest trade free zone in the world (after Hong Kong) and it seems to be doing OK with that business.  I wish I had more time to stay around and explore but we had to get back to Panama City as I was leaving the next morning.

architecture, Colon, Panama, Caribbean, street scene, colorful, vacation, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Damaged building

architecture, Colon, Panama, Caribbean, street scene, colorful, vacation, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

Typical home in the center of Colón

architecture, Colon, Panama, Caribbean, street scene, colorful, vacation, travel, photo, Canon EOS Rebel

The streets of Colón are very colorful!

An inland “oasis” in Gamboa

I also got to visit Gamboa in the interior and next to Lake Gatún (which provides the water the Panama Canal needs to operate since water is a key tool in operating the gates or “esclusas” that control ships crossing the Canal).  We visited the Gamboa Resort which had great views of the area.

Gamboa, resort, Lake Gatun, Panama, tropical, travel, photo, vacation, Canon EOS Rebel

The view from the main building at the resort: spectacular!

There are tours that take you to see monkeys and other wildlife as well as a canopy tram tour that allows a bird’s eye view over the area.  Next time, I will try to take advantage of some of those tour opportunities for a change!

Beach time near Coronado

Finally, we went to a beach next to Coronado on the Pacific called Punto Barco where one of my cousins has a beach house.  The beach may not be the best in the world but to have a house there would be a dream!  My cousin outdid herself with great food (ceviche!!) and the family had a great time hanging out.Coronado, Punto Barco, Panama, beach, Pacific coast, tropics, travel, photo, sand, Canon EOS RebelCoronado, Punto Barco, Panama, beach, Pacific coast, tropics, travel, photo, sand, Canon EOS Rebel

As usual, my visit ends and I long for more time there.  My relatives there always manage to take great care of us and make us feel very welcome.  I hope to go back and maybe this time not take 2 years in between trips!

Ever Changing Panama City, Panama

Last night, I made it to Panama for my 5th visit. I have relatives here and have always enjoyed coming to see them and enjoy the country.

Surprise!

This time, I made my trip coincide with my mom also coming over to visit my aunt – but as a surprise to my mom!  One of my cousins picked me up from the airport and took me to my aunt’s where the surprise took place.  My mom’s reaction was priceless!  Of course, every one of my Panama-based family members were in on the surprise and, though it was getting late in the evening, they could not leave until they saw “the moment”.  Well worth it.

The flight to Panama

Fortunately for me, there is a nice direct flight from Atlanta that takes 4 hours.  The plane was close to full but I had exit row (score!) and the seat in exit row that has no seat in front of it so zero feeling of being in a sardine can – the usual feeling in most American airlines.  The flight was smooth except that it it took between 10 and 15 minutes for a gate to be cleared for the plane to park.  Then another 5 mins to open the plane door.  Not sure why something so simple took so long.  But perhaps I was just antsy for “the moment”…

Panama City – A City Changed

Today, my relatives took us around showing how much Panama City has changed.  My parents hadn’t been here in about 10 years but I had been here 2 yrs ago.  For them the change was much more dramatic as areas of the coast line in the city have radically changed.  Instead of the waterfront small airport that used to take us and others to the Archipiélago de las Perlas (Pearl Islands), now there is a massive -and nice- mall and construction between it and the water!  The skyline is beginning to look more like Dubai’s than anything else with high rises everywhere both finished and under construction.  Massive construction boom. Paitilla, a waterfront area where even Trump built a tower, was already growing back in the late 1970s but it has, seemingly, growth logarithmically!

Paitilla in Panama City, Panama from the Casco Viejo (Old Town)

Looking towards part of Paitilla district from the Casco Viejo

Our relatives tell us that most have sold but start of new buildings has slowed down a bit with the current economic environment.  Many unit buyers are actually foreigners from Venezuela (escaping some lunatic there perhaps?), Colombia, and others.  A new area called Costa del Este has been developed on the former city dump and in neighboring swampy areas.  It took years to clear out and refill.  Now, it teems with new construction – high rises and nice gated neighborhoods.  Two of my cousins live in Costa del Este and I can’t blame them.

I had been taken on this same tour 2 yrs ago when I last visited but it was neat to see small changes, such as in the Casco Viejo (Old Town), the old part of town that reminds me so much of Old San Juan except the latter has been renovated extensively and kept up quite nicely.  This time, I could tell there was more progress on the re-do of the old buildings, some which go back to the 1600s and 1700s.  It is already beginning to shape up as a fantastic part of town and will be superb once the works are mostly done.

Around the Casco Viejo (Old Town) in Panama City, Panama

Around the Casco Viejo, typical street

Around the Casco Viejo (Old Town) in Panama City, Panama

Around the Casco Viejo

Around the Casco Viejo (Old Town) in Panama City, Panama

Around the Casco Viejo

You already have restaurants and some hotels (the Hotel Colombia is an impressive architectural piece).

Hotel Colombia in the Casco Viejo (Old Town) in Panama City, Panama

Hotel Colombia

Around the Casco Viejo (Old Town) in Panama City, Panama

Juxtaposition of old-and-older in the Casco Viejo

I got to enter the National Theater which I had never seen before and it was splendid.  We also got to enter the courtyard of the Ministry of Foreign Relations where they have done a great job of semi-enclosing the courtyard to protect from rain but yet kept it somewhat open, especially towards the ocean.  Talks and other events are held there and I can see why it would be a great setting.

Indoor at the Teatro Nacional (National Theater) in Panama City, Panama

Inside the National Theater

Foreign Ministry courtyard in Panama City, Panama with a large fan

Courtyard at the Foreign Ministry. Notice the HUGE ceiling fan!

We also drove to Puerto Amador (Fort Amador, formally a key intelligence center and bunker of the US military and, after the Panama Canal turned over, of Gen. Noriega).  Now it bustles with eateries, shops, some condos, etc.  I had been there in my last visit at night and it is definitely a good place to go to at night.  Nice conversion of a former military facility to a place for folks to enjoy.

We drove through the old city center where many great stores are located.  I remember visiting Panama when I was younger and my aunt going there to buy things from this or that “ethnic” store.  For example, the Indian stores had great linens. (Indian, as in descendants of people who came from India).  There is also an area of Chinese run stores (ethnic Chinese but Panamanian).  This area looks a bit more run down than I remember and I couldn’t get a sense of how safe it is…  Especially after my relatives said that the street called “Sal si puedes” (“get out if you can”) is particularly dangerous.  I suspect that it may be no worse than many inner cities in the U.S. and that an adventurous traveler (not traveling alone) can likely make it through and “get out”.

So, after a lot of driving around, I am back at my cousin’s house to shower and get ready for happy hour at my aunt’s before heading out for dinner.  Not really sure what we are doing tomorrow but I am sure it will involve lots of driving around.  We have all visited the Canal before (3 times for me) so I doubt we will be doing that this time.  Looking forward to another day here and happy to be back in Panama!

————————————————-

See how we covered from the Caribbean coast to the Pacific coast in this trip ->  click here!

Re-visiting Buenos Aires

So, in 1991, I met BB.AA.  Enjoyed exploring it, enjoyed the great food, and enjoyed seeing it with people who lived there.  Fast forward to 2000.  Company offers me an opportunity to go deliver a training class of 3 days.  What to do?  Had I ever taught or even attended the training class before?  No.  But, of course, if they thought I could teach it, who was I to defy corporate wisdom?

Getting there not always half the fun

Back then, there was no direct flight from Atlanta so I was to connect in Miami to a United flight to BB.AA.  Due to an earlier cancelled flight to BB.AA., United decided to bump me off the flight.  Now, I understand how these things work – most of the time – but I had paid full fare in business class so I do not understand how United made such a brilliant decision to bump off a full fare paying passenger of a large international business.  (No wonder U.S. airlines continue to fail miserably in their business model… But that should be a topic for a different blog.)  Suffice it to say that the resolution to this was both good and bad.  Good, I could still leave that night.  Bad, I had to connect now through Sao Paulo to get to BB.AA.  Good, they put me on first class on the way down and the way up.  Good, the never-ending refills of Dom Perignon.  Good, the comfort of the seats.  Bad, international first class back then did not have the fancy “seat-cabins” you see today.  Good, I could use the first class lounge in Miami on the way back which had fantastic shower rooms.  Neutral, the Canadian Airlines flight from Sao Paulo to BB.AA. got sprayed upon landing in BB.AA. as happens in flights between other countries (I assume to kill off any bad germs).  Bad, I am allergic to those sprays which meant within 24 hrs. I was bedridden in my BB.AA. hotel killing my day to prepare to deliver the training…

But the good wins

In between landing and getting bedridden, I re-connected with one of my Argentine friends with whom I had worked in Chile in 1991 (the one who got us to ride in the colectivo during my BB.AA. visit in 1991 and to whom I may owe having survived that ride).  Had dinner in a non-descript local place and then headed over their place to have some mate.   Good to see Hugo and his wife again.

The training class was in a subject I was well acquainted topic so I followed the lead of my co-teacher and was able to add good value to the trainees’ learning experience (or so I think!).  I knew some of them from past work and had a great time in spite of not feeling well.

I did also get to see how much BB.AA. had changed.  Home Depot now had a store there.  The dollar now could be used as currency.  However, they did not accept any bill that was slightly torn or stained.  The irony was that when giving you change, they felt they could give you back torn or stained Argentine bills…  Oh, and I got to re-connect with empanadas.  Empanadas are a gift from God via Argentina [good eats].  And I got to see how the city had undertaken urban renewal, like in the area of Puerto Madero, making it even more enjoyable to visit.

This particular trip was way too short to explore more of the city but it was sure good to see it again and see how it had changed.

What would others recommend people check out these days?  It is 2009, 9 yrs since my last visit which was 9 yrs after my first visit.  I feel I am due again and wonder “what’s new, Buenos Aires!”

Visiting Buenos Aires

I have had the opportunity to visit Buenos Aires, Argentina three times: in 1991, 2000, and 2010 (I don’t like the spacing between visits…).  The first time was a weekend trip when I was living in Santiago, Chile and the second sent do co-deliver a training session for my company’s office there.  The third visit was for a short business trip when I got work -again- in Santiago, Chile (yes, I am blessed!).  I will write here about the trip in 1991.

Exploring Buenos Aires

Though we were entitled to be flown back to the U.S. from Santiago for Thanksgiving in 1991, we made a small “business case” to our manager that it would be way cheaper if they paid for us to go to BB.AA. (airfare, hotel and airport transportation).  We worked with some Argentines in Chile who flew home every weekend (abt a 2 hr flight) so they encouraged us to go and hang out with them.

We booked a hotel in Recoleta which was a nice part of town.  With our friends, we got to explore fantastic food.  The well-known area of La Costanera [good eats] did deliver a fantastic steak meal.  I remember that I wasn’t very hungry so I ordered half a steak.  The steak was as big as the large plate it was served on – of course, to see it I had to work through the pile of French fries on top of the steak.

obelisco-bbaa1BB.AA. is a great city to walk around.  The architecture (reminiscent of Paris) and the diversity of the people provide a lot of things to look at as you make your way between places to visit.  We had to make the ¨obligatory¨visit to the cemetery where Eva Perón is buried, see the Casa Rosada (the president’s house), watch the mothers still marching many years after military left power in front of the Casa Rosada, walk down Calle Florida (a great pedestrian shopping street).  Perhaps the most exciting thing we did was take a local bus to go to a colleague’s house.  The bus (or ¨colectivo¨) never really stops to let you in nor to let you out so with coaching from our local friend, my other American colleague and I managed to be successful in these 2 maneuvers…  A real adventure!

The thing we enjoyed the most though was a gelato chain called Fredo’s [good eats].  The gelato was superb and my personal favorite was the wine cream gelato.  I think we stopped at a Fredo’s whenever we saw one. 

Asado at a Friend’s

We enjoyed going around town with our friends and glad they were doing the driving.  I recall the Ave. Libertador having about 5 to 7 lanes of traffic with no lanes painted on the road surface.  I met chaos that night.  The best part of the trip was the time we were invited to one of our friend’s parents’ house for a traditional Argentine ¨asado¨ (read, BBQ) [good eats].  True Argentine hospitality!  When it came time for the main course, they brought a huge round piece of wood loaded with all the meat that had benn grilled.  All the meat meant all of the cow.  We were asked to choose a non-¨traditional¨piece of meat.  I went for the kidney as I didn’t fancy some of the other crazier parts…  Not impressed with the texture of the kidneys.

I flew Pan Am between Santiago and BB.AA.  Flying over the high peaks of the Andes on my first ride ever on a 747 was exhilarating and unnerving.  It looked as if the mountaintops were going to scrape the underbelly of the airplane.  And yet, looking at the cabin of the airplane, I couldn’t fully comprehend how such an airplane managed to fly.  On a semi-historical note, my flight back to Santiago was the last day Pan Am flew.

BB.AA. is definitely a town made to be explored and enjoyed.  Back in 1991, the country was just enjoying economic stability after the hyperinflationary period and everyone’s mood was great.   BB.AA. has changed tons since that first visit as I discovered in later visits – it has become even more exciting and interesting – an Argentines are still a heck of a lot of fun!

Traveling in Southern Chile – Pucón

Back when I lived in Chile in 1991, we made a holiday weekend trip to Pucón.  We wanted to explore the south a little further and one of our colleagues’ sister had a house in Pucón so my colleague knew the area well.  So 9 of us rented a van and met my colleague and his girlfriend down in Pucón…  It was going to be a great weekend.!

Getting to Pucón

We drove the Panamerican Highway for what seems like 10 hours to get to Pucón.  I would imagine the Panamerican Highway has been expanded some since 1991 but it seemed a less-than-ideal highway since it is the sole main roadway traversing the length of the country.  Therefore, it is the way for things and people to be transported across the country.  It was very crowded and I pitied the guy who was driving (not sure how he ended up with the assignment out of the 9 of us).  For those of us not driving, we were split into 2 camps:  those who smoked and those who did not.  This being 1991 in Chile and 7 out of the 9 being Argentinians, smoking seemed a very acceptable thing to do in a van all night long.  The 2 of us Americans cracked open a window to get fresher air to complaints of it being too cold – tough…  The stop for dinner in Temuco was wonderful for the break and the food (to this day I remember I had corvina a la vizcaina – a rare fish eater back then, this dish totally won me over to eating fish!.

Then to Enjoy Pucón…

We had, based on our friend’s recommendation, booked rooms at a local lakeside hotel on the shores of Lake Villarica (Hotel del Parque, I think) and close the volcano of the same name.  What a FANTASTIC setting.  We did go up the volcano which had ski slopes (closed at the time).  Not quite Steamboat Springs or Portillo but I am sure fun nevertheless.

300px-pucon-y-su-volcanIn Pucón, besides fantastic local dishes we enjoyed the landscape, very green and with mountains nearby.  Though it was cold enough to be weating a sweater (this was early November so the end of the spring), we decided it would be a fun idea to go whitewater rafting down the Trancura River (around a level 3.5/4).  Only 1 person had whitewater rafted before and not there.  WOW!  That water was freaking cold!!  Straight down from the peaks of the Andes!  It gave us an incredible incentive to remain focused on not turning over or falling into the water.  Our Argentinian friends were very singing-oriented and made up songs as we went down the river – fun crowd to hang with!

Though it was maybe too long a distance for a 3-day weekend, we thoroughly enjoyed yourselves with fun company and a fantastic setting in the Chilean countryside.  I can´t wait to return there some day.

It has been many years since this visit.  Perhaps someone can share other information about Pucón and the neighboring towns?

%d bloggers like this: