Photo Essay: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

19 June 2015 by Raul 3 Comments

My friend Bruce T., an outdoorsman and all-around nice guy, is traveling around the Grand Teton National Park (in northwestern Wyoming) with his wife, Sonia, and had sent out a few pictures of the sights he has encountered. I have never been to the park and loved the landscape, wildlife, and color in his pictures. So, I asked him if he would let me share his photos in this blog so you all could see them. So, without further ado, here are the sights of the Grand Teton National Park! Which is your favorite photo??

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A mule deer doe eating in the forest

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A bull elk with horns in velvet grazes in the late spring

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Flowers grace the foreground of the Grand Tetons

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A young bull moose along the Snake River (near Moose Junction visitor center)

Flowers blooming in Grand Teton National Park

Hidden Falls – neat discovery

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Lupine blooms in the late spring with the Grand Tetons rising in the background

Storm clouds loom above the Grand Tetons

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A passing storm darkens the skies

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A passing storm drops rain and snow (high elevation)

A passing storm in full force

Scarlet gilia blooming with a great backdrop

Filed Under: US & Canada, Wyoming Tagged With: deer, elk. lupine, flowers, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Tetons, hiking, mountain, nature, outdoor, travel, Wyoming

Great Drive Series – Along the Columbia River in Oregon

7 June 2015 by Raul 5 Comments

Oregon has been a place I have always been wanting to go. When the opportunity to go on a business trip to Portland arose, I was thrilled. Though I was not able to append a weekend on either end of the business trip to get to explore more, I did have a Sunday afternoon and the hours after office hours to check some of the area.

My favorite part was driving along the Columbia River Gorge. I had not read up much about the area before going and it surprised to discover there was a gorge along parts of the Columbia River, near Portland. I discovered it by looking outside my seat window as we were close to land in PDX. I was very lucky to have picked a window seat (I am a serial aisler) and that it was on the right side of the plane which not only afforded me the opportunity to discover the gorge but also to see Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams. (Clearly, the airplane’s window was a little dirty and, seemingly, so was the air right above – notice the brownish line killing my clear view of the top of Mt. St. Helens).

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Mt. St. Helens on the left, Mt. Adams on the right; the Columbia River and the gorge in the middle

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Close up of the mountains (and the window smudge!)

Getting to the Columbia River Gorge from Portland was very easy. Just take I-84 East. To visit the most famous of the waterfalls, Multnomah, one doesn’t even really have to get off the interstate: there is a parking area in the middle of the interstate (a rest area) and a tunnel under the lanes to get to the waterfall.

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At the top of the photo, you can see the rest area

But it is nicer to get off earlier (at Troutdale or Corbett) and then do the scenic route, passing other waterfalls along the way. The scenery is beautiful.

The first main stop is phenomenal: Vista House on the Crown Point Scenic Corridor. You enjoy great vistas up- and down-river of the Columbia River from this high vantage point. I wish I had been there for sunrise or sunset (or both) – bet the view would have been even better!

After Vista House continuing eastbound, a series of waterfalls come before getting to Multnomah Falls, the tallest falls in the state. There are several trails available to get out and walk. I reserved my limited time to go up the Multnomah Falls which rises over 600 ft.

I did the round trip up and down in slightly less than an hour. It is nice they numbered the switchbacks going up but it certainly made me anxious to get to the last one – I’d rather not know how many I have left!

Latourell Falls on the left and Multnomah Falls on the right

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At the top of Multnomah!

Yikes, close to the edge!

I do wish I had had time to go to the coast and visit the Lewis & Clark National Wildlife Refuge. I enjoyed reading the story of Lewis & Clark a few years ago and would have enjoyed seeing where their journey ended where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. Next time!

Filed Under: Great Drives, Oregon, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: Columbia River, gorge, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, Multnomah, nature, Oregon, outdoors, photo, Portland, Samsung Galaxy, travel, Vista House, waterfalls

Hiking Tips from an Unexpected Climb of Blood Mountain

24 January 2015 by Raul 3 Comments

I enjoy hiking and love exploring new routes. On one recent hike, near my home in Atlanta, I had the opportunity to learn some lessons in hiking so I’d thought I’d share some hiking tips from that experience. While these tips may be common sense, the refresher is always good… But before I share the hiking tips (located at the end of the post), let me tell you what happened…

The setup to the story

Living in Atlanta, Georgia I have access to great hiking an hour and a half away from the city at the southern end of the Appalachian Mountains, host of the famous Appalachian Trail (AT) that runs from north Georgia all the way to Maine. There is nice hiking closer to Atlanta (like around the Chattahooche River National Park) but for longer and more strenuous hikes (and overall better vistas), I like going up to the north Georgia mountains despite the trip adding a 3-hour round trip to and from the mountains.

I was looking for a long hike to do on a daytrip as part of general conditioning for my hike in Patagonia and I was seeking a loop, instead of an in-and-out hike. A good friend who also enjoys hiking offered to come along (I don’t hike solo) and we set out to do Jarrard Gap Trail connecting it to the Slaughter Creek Trail by traversing a 1.85 mile stretch of the AT for a total hike of around 5.75 miles. It was a great hike but I learned some lessons in hiking from an unexpected twist in our hike…

While I have hiked in interesting places (like the Transylvanian Alps in Romania and Mt. Kilimanjaro), I am not an expert hiker who knows all the tricks of the trade, who is used to half-missing signage, who is secure in his inner compass, etc. So I rely on maps and stuff I find on the Internet to create a route. (My friend Val in Real Life would probably laugh her rear off at my lack of innate outdoor skills!) On this occasion, my friend and I got a little complacent thinking we had clear in our head the route we were taking. I will first share with you the hike we DID as it was definitely diverse in terrain and views, and enjoyable, if long. I will then tell you what we THOUGHT we were going to do that day and highlight the difference between the two. And then, I will share some lessons I learned!

The innocent start to the hike

After driving about 1.5 hrs, we arrived at Winfield Scott Lake, a rather small lake at the start of our hike. To get there, we passed the entrance where visitors are supposed to take an envelope and place $5 in it and drop it in a locked box. One is supposed to tear off part of the envelope and hang it on the rear view mirror of the vehicle (the number on that stub and the envelop in the locked box would match, telling the part ranger that this car has paid). There were no envelopes to be found so we improvised and dropped the fee with a label that indicated my license plate in case someone checked. We doubted anyone would be checking on this Sunday but we preferred being good citizens. I took a picture of what I dropped in in case I needed it later to fight a citation!

The actual hiked route

We entered the trail and, after crossing a narrow and single-side handrail bridge, we were dumped on a paved road where we saw a house with Halloween decorations still on the mailbox (this would prove useful later!). There was a simple sign indicating the way and we walked maybe 0.25 miles on the road until the real entrance to the real Jarrard Gap Trail.

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On the Jarrard Gap Trail

The terrain was a nice upward slope but not too intense. Nice views of the downhill on this winter day. Once we exited this trail at the Jarrard Gap, we walked a little to the next set of signs which helped point the way in this 4-way intersection. Except it was not all too clear as it did not have any of the names in our map.

Someone told us which way was the AT and we walked little on it until we saw the white mark that is used to mark the AT so on we went. So we entered the AT in the direction of Blood Mountain. There were slight (rolling, I would call them) downhills and flat bits of terrain. We passed a camp area on the left after having taken a quick break, and soon on the right we saw the trailhead to the Freeman Trail which sort of parallels the AT (it re-meets the AT on the opposite end). At that point, we were 2.6 miles from our beginning point and so we went off on Freeman Trail.

Freeman Trail is about 1.8 miles of very different terrain than what we had been on on the Jarrard Gap Trail and the AT. At parts narrow, often very rocky (small and big), it was actually a fun trail to hit as long as one is not expecting a cozy walk. We were not. We even passed an icy spot on our way to the other end of the trail.

We understood we would exit Freeman Trail and take the AT in the direction back towards the entrance to Freeman Trail. But, before setting on the AT, we stopped to eat our lunch at this popular intersection. At this intersection, besides the AT and the Freeman Trail, there is a trail that leads to a parking lot 0.7 miles away. That parking becomes probably the point with the shortest route up to Blood Mountain.

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At the spot where Freeman Trail hit the AT

By taking the AT in the direction of the entrance we took into the Freeman Trail, we were proceeding to ascend Blood Mountain which, at near 4,400 ft, is the fourth tallest mountain in the state of Georgia and one of the most popular mountaintops in the state with breathtaking views all the way to North Carolina and Tennessee.

The climb to the summit was hard. Rocky and steep with many switchbacks, with vegetation everywhere. It definitely worked out my gluteus maximus and my hamstrings! I had the same trouble I had had on Day 4 on Kilimanjaro after passing the Barranco Wall segment of that hike. I carried a 16-lb backpack as part of my training but ended up emptying my extra bottle of water (one that I carry precisely as a way to drop backpack weight should I feel like I need to; it is not the water I expect to consumer during the hike). It indeed was a challenge – an unexpected one – but I am glad I did it as it was good training for my upcoming hike and a great workout.

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On the way to the summit!

At some point, we reached a clearing with large smooth rocks replacing the ground, like how Stone Mountain is when you are climbing it. We stopped briefly and chatted with some folks who had gone up ahead of us; they had not heard of Slaughter Creek (which was a little unnerving but they had come from the “nearby” parking lot so they were likely not expecting to hit the creek on the other side of the mountain). From this clearing, one could see Stone Mountain and Atlanta in the distance. That was very impressive given how far north we were.

The view from the clearing

The AT is well-marked with rectangular white boxes painted on trees and rocks so no issues knowing where we were so we continued on it as we knew the AT would connect to the Slaughter Creek Trail. Not long afterwards, we reached the summit which has a neat rock outcropping from which to soak the entire view. It is located right next to a nice shelter structure for those who stay overnight (further down, there is a “privy” or basic toilet facility). After checking the view and confirming which of the two possible ways was the way down (other than the one we came up from), we began our descent which I welcomed as going up had been hard. I read later that the side we went up was harder but I am glad we did it that way because going down that way would have killed my knees with all the rocks…

The descent was uneventful. We passed a campsite area on the left and it was a little mis-leading as the white box marking the trail made us think we had to detour at the campsite because the other part of the trail did not have the white rectangular boxes. But the crude wooden map on the campsite and a brief exploration of the other trail (where we saw a sign that said “Water” and pointed down that path) led us to determine that the unmarked way was the way to go. Confidently we moved forward and downward and soon we ran into a trio that confirmed for us that was the way down indeed. So it was nice to have that validation. They told us that we would make a left at the steps at the bottom that were still iced over. The descent was not too rocky at all so that made it better for our knees.

We reached the iced-over steps and felt really good that we were on the final stretch. We walked maybe 0.4 miles before we hit the entrance that we had taken to enter the Freeman Trail and then returned to repeat backwards the way in – a final 2.6 miles to get to our parking lot. Along the way, we had forgotten about the road we had been dumped into before hitting the real Jarrard Gap Trail. Thankfully, the house that still had Halloween decorations on the mailbox saved the day as we remembered having passed it.

The INTENDED route

So after having read what we did. Here is what we had intended to do…

We were supposed to get on Jarrard Gap Trail (check) and hike it until it ended at the Jarrard Gap (check) and then connect with the AT (check) and walk towards Freeman Trail (check) but continue 0.4 miles past the entrance to Freeman Trail without taking Freeman Trail (NOT CHECKED!). After the 0.4 mile stretch, we would encounter the trailhead to Slaughter Creek Trail which would have taken us back to the road near Winfield Scott Lake. End of a moderate day hike.

That, ladies and gentlemen, is what we were supposed to do. 5.75 miles that could have taken us 2.5-3 hrs, perhaps. I will explain what happened next but stay tuned for hiking tips at the end of the post!

What went wrong on this north Georgia mountain hike?

No, no banjos or bears

The map from the website where I got the route instructions did not label the trails the proposed route would take us on. Thank goodness there was a clear map at the parking lot by the lake that had trails with names on them. We could not quite reconcile this map to the one in our printout so we took a photo of the map so we could have handy along the way (boy, was that a good idea!).

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The parking lot map

However, the map sort of helped get us confused – we saw that there was clearly a way from Freeman Trail on to Slaughter Creek Trail (via the AT) so we thought we were good. But, what we failed to grasp was the increased distance such a route meant: instead of our intended 5.75 mile plan, we ended up doing about 10.5 miles (per our reconstruction of the facts once back in the comfort of our respective homes). This is how…

Remember when I said earlier that we encountered the start of the Freeman Trail so off we went on it? Well, as you read on the “intended route” bit above, we were not supposed to take Freeman Trail. The route instructions we had printed were just highlighting that at mile 2.6 we would encounter the trailhead for Freeman Trail. The explanation of the route was peppered with beautiful photos that certainly kept us from focusing on reading the text carefully as, upon careful reading later, we realized it never indicated that we needed to get on the Freeman Trail!

0.4 miles after passing the Freeman Trail, we were supposed to find the start of Slaughter Creek Trail at which point we would be returning along the same-named creek. After a while on Freeman Trail we wondered if we had missed a turn 0.4 miles after we had started on it to find Slaughter Creek Trail (the connection to that trail was not evident in the map from the parking lot).

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Along the Freeman Trail

We should have turned around… However, the map we had taken a picture of did show that we would hit the AT again and would swing back to hit Slaughter Creek Trail at some point (which we didn’t realize was much later than expected…).

And so we kept going on the rougher trail that is Freeman Trail. Partly perhaps because we were distracted by our conversation and maybe partly because the trail was unusual (narrow, rocky, with more interesting vegetation that leafed-out winter trees). Maybe it was just such a nice day for a hike so why rush it? Eventually,we ran into a man and his dog and we asked him how far to hit the AT and he told us “one mile or so.” We were taken aback but pressed on as we knew this way we would get to where we wanted to go. We finally hit the AT and decided it was time to sit down and eat our lunch. We had worked hard and had, at least, the same effort to go still to finish!

As we continued the hike by getting back on the AT, I still didn’t realize we were headed all the way to the top. I thought this trail would swing on the south side of the mountain and some other trail would take hikers all the way to the top since I didn’t think the AT would run through mountaintops. But we agreed we didn’t want to backtrack across the Freeman Trail so we went forth. I think this was a good decision as, at least, we experienced reaching the top of Blood Mountain.

Yours truly on the climb to the summit – note the white mark towards the bottom

The descent from Blood Mountain was uneventful except that we totally missed the entrance to the Slaughter Creek Trail! When we reached the spot where we were supposed to turn off, we ran into a group of folks and we briefly chatted as we passed each other (after having seen a sign indicating the trail was coming up) and seemed to have missed the trailhead. We had seen a little of the creek but missed the fact that we lost it at some point. Or we assumed that for part of the trail, it would not be right by us. I am not really sure. Anyway, we realized something was amiss when… we encountered the sign that marked the entrance to Freeman Trail that we had seen a few hours before!

At this point, I don’t think we were in the mood to backtrack and find Slaughter Creek Trail. We understood we had missed the entrance and, given how much we had done already, we decided to back out the way we had come in via the Jarrard Gap.

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Back in the familiar territory of the Jarrard Gap

So, there you have it. A series of mis-steps that, while annoying, did give us what looking back was a challenging and rewarding day of hiking. However, there are lessons to be learned and that is also a good by-product of this experience!

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Neat view from the summit of Blood Mountain

Key lessons learned for future hikes

Read the route carefully, pay attention, and if it does not explicitly say to take a trail, do not; do not be distracted by pretty pictures!
Use a clear map that labels all the trails and shows a scale so you can properly estimate things.
Snap a photo of the route map (or download it if it exists in that format); great way to study what is going on if you think you took a wrong turn or presented with an unfortunate trail intersection where the sign is missing or damaged -> yes, all too common. The signs are useful but don’t count on them being there or usable.
Corroborate the route on another website if possible; sometimes hikers post comments on their experience on the particular trail and highlight some potential gotchas; most helpful!
Signage will not always be clear so the points above are important.
Cell service, though not always available, can be available at some clearings. GPS is great as long as the signal can find you…
Be prepared with enough food and water (we were, mercifully). You never know what happens. Hunger is preferable to thirst if you have to prioritize – though I doubt that you have to pick one or the other. Also, while you may plan properly, your hiking partner for the day hike may or may not be like you. So a little extra of both food and water can’t hurt to be extra safe.
Bring a headlamp even if you think you are hiking in the daytime (had the hike been even longer than we thought, it would have started getting darker). Again, not a lot of weight and just helps you be ready in case things do take longer than expected (either because you got lost, or someone twisted an ankle and you proceed at a much slower pace, etc.)
Always hike with someone. The enjoyment of solitude in the midst of nature can be the point of hiking for some – but not for me. I enjoy hiking with someone whether for good conversation or just general keeping company. But also, if something goes wrong, I want another head thinking about things along with me!
Never stop hiking because you had one hike were you were not “with it.” That is how one learns and it can still be very rewarding and worthwhile – plus it gives you a good story to laugh at and not take yourself too seriously! And one does learn…

Regardless of all this, if was great to be able to do such a long hike to help my training for Patagonia and to prove to us that we were fit enough for such a hike combining length and climbing. I look back at the simplicity of the mistake we made and how it really changed the nature of the hike. BUT, I am most glad I got to do all I was planning to do that day PLUS get to the top of Blood Mountain!!

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Read about other hikes in Georgia that I have taken once or several times!

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, US & Canada Tagged With: Appalachian Trail in Georgia, Blood Mountain, climbing, Freeman Trail, great hike near Atlanta, hiking, in Georgia, Jarrard Gap, nature, outdoors, photos, Slaughter Creek trail, tips for hiking, trekking

What to Do in Santa Barbara? Check out El Presidio

8 January 2015 by Raul Leave a Comment

I have been to California a few times but mainly to the areas around San Francisco and, less so, around Los Angeles (plus a business trip to Sacramento). This past summer, though, I got to sample some of the “other” Californias. I got to spend a few days in lovely Santa Barbara. We had a nice list of things to do in Santa Barbara and I have to say that what I got to see there captivated me. It also makes me want to explore other places in California that I have always heard of or read about but have never made the time to visit.

The Old Mission, of which I already wrote, was an incredible sight and site – a must in the list of things to see there. Another one that may have been less imposing, though no less powerful, was the Presidio.

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The church

The Presidio was built in the late 18th century as a military facility (not sure if “fort” is too strong a word) by the Spanish colonizers. The original site was a large square but now only half of it remains – while sad, at least half still exists (half glass full type of thought there!).

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A street runs through it now… oh, modernity…

The Visitor Center has a model that helps one envision the total original site and it pains me that part of it was lost. The good news is that one of the remaining structures is the second oldest building structure in California. The entire Presidio site is now a California state park so it is protected – and that is a good thing for preservation and future generations. California today can feel very modern and artificial; its roots can be easily forgotten in the glitz of what the media portrays as California. As a lover of history, I certainly treasure a site like El Presidio and think it deserves to be visited.

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Looking from the street towards the visitor center

At the Visitor Center, we met a gentleman who works at the site who gave us a quick overview (for free!) of the site before we paid and walked in to explore the site. Of course, a lot of restoration has taken place – it is impossible for the modest structures to survive without it: The decades can’t be kind to a building made in those days and with those materials (and given the frequency of quakes in the area). But as I walked around, it all felt as it must have been so long ago – that tells me the preservation work was well done.

The grounds around the Presidio

The grounds behind the church

Room in the Presidio

The outer walls of the precinct are thick and there were private spaces for the homes of the more senior members of the staff, even with space for small gardens. Along with the typical military spaces (like the military parade grounds), there was also a church located well inside the square. The church is plain but has been nicely restored at some point as you can see in the following pictures.

The church’s altar

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The back of the church

Looking towards the front of the church

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Detail of the wall and ceiling of the church

Baptismal font with a plaque of ceramic with names of those baptized in the mid 19th century

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I have to say that with all the glitz and glam that California has become synonymous with, and the accompanying Hollywood trash, it is refreshing to experience a different California, one that makes evident how this land was explored and how it was settled by a European power. Yes, I am a history geek! Read more about the Presidio here.

Filed Under: California, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: architecture, California, history, military installation, Presidio, Santa Barbara, Spanish settlement, travel, what to do in Santa Barbara

Panther Creek: A Challenging and Rewarding Hike in North Georgia

9 December 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

I was looking for a hike that I could do within 4 hours that was not right on the outskirts of Atlanta. A friend and I were looking for a more challenging hike than the usual so after selecting a few finalists, we settled on Panther Creek, about an hour and a half north of Atlanta. We decided to hike 3.5 hrs in to the larger waterfalls and then back. The entrance to the trail on Panther Creek is on Old Historic 441 in north Georgia, northwest of the town of Ellijay.

Soon after entering the trail, you go under the new 441. After that, you leave hearing highway noise and slowly, but surely, start hearing water running sounds… The trail is more natural (read, not groomed) and that makes it quite a neat trail to hike.

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Towards the start of the Panther Creek trail – love the woods

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Lots of rock outcrops where one can imagine people ages ago taking shelter under them

You go down a narrow path and slowly go downhill. Eventually you are closer to creek level and closer to the creek itself.

Beautiful colors at the time of the year I visited

More beauty

Still waters

There are several low wooden bridges to cross and then one arrives to a first set of cascades with a space that is perfect for camping overnight.

One of the bridges crossing the creek

Love these cascades

A couple of times the markers for the path were not visible and we proceeded trusting that the wild we saw in front of us was just an overgrown trail (and, mercifully, we were right!).

Continuing on from that spot, another 30-45 minutes or so depending on pace, one arrives at the upper waterfalls with a sort-of sandy beach to camp overnight or just recover from the hike in. Right before arriving at this waterfall, the terrain becomes a little more challenging and fun. One has to hug the big rocks holding on to the steel-cable handrails. These handrails are anchored on posts, some of which are sturdy and some of which have come loose and are floating, being kept alive by the two neighboring posts! One does need to proceed with care as falling from this rock outcrop would not be fun.

The steel cable handrail itself is precarious!

Panther Creek was both rewarding and challenging. The raw feel of the trails was a welcome change from some of the other trails I hike in north Atlanta (which are quite nice but well groomed). I highly recommend doing this trail – I sure hope to do it again!

A nice break after 3.5 miles!

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Read about these other great hikes in Georgia:

… and more to come!

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: hikes near Atlanta, hiking in Georgia, nature, outdoors, Panther Creek, photo, Samsung Galaxy, trails near Atlanta, waterfalls in Georgia

I Have a Mission for You: in Santa Barbara!

4 November 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

Among the many beautiful things to enjoy in Santa Barbara, California, one of my favorite ones is the Old Mission. Its architecture, its setting, its history all make it a neat place to visit but what I like the most is that it is still in use by the monks and the locals; in other words, it is not just a museum.

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Approaching the Mission on a beautiful California day

The Santa Barbara Mission is located on what seems to be the outskirts of town but it really takes no time to reach it from the center of Santa Barbara (a very easy place to get around with a car or a bike). It was established by the Franciscan monks around 1768 as one of the last of a series of missions founded along California by the order. As with most places where Europeans (or people of European descent), there was contact between the new arrivals and the locals; in this case the Chumash Indians. The Santa Barbara Mission represents the longest continuous presence of the Franciscans in the United States.

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The Mission is more than the church and the museum; also a mausoleum and retreat center

The structures that have been on the site and are now have gone through changes and repairs, especially due to damage from earthquakes over its lifetime and after a period of civil administration of the site when the structures were not maintained. Not today: the structures look well kept up and on a beautiful day (which seems to be every day in Santa Barbara), the Mission is perfect for photos! Admiring the facade of the mission is not hard. The ample space outside allows one to step back and soak the whole structure in.

Once inside, one can enjoy the beautiful inner courtyards and outdoor “hallways” of the mission.

Inner courtyard at the Mission

I could sit on a rocking chair here and rock away all day!

At some point, one enters the cemetery area on the side of the main church before entering the church itself, following the sequence proposed in the self-tour which, at $7, was a great deal! They also have led tours which seem would be best to better grasp the history and meaning of the Mission. Unfortunately, we had less time than the tours require so we did the self-guided version.

The cemetery outside of the church, near the mausoleum

The church itself has the feel of what makes a place of worship one where I could focus and reflect and pray. It is simply beautiful.

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Main altar at the church

The Mission is not just a place to go check out if you are in Santa Barbara: it is one of the reasons you should GO to Santa Barbara!

The church

Filed Under: California, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: architecture, California, Chumash Indians, Franciscan monks, history, Mission, Olympus, photo, religion, Santa Barbara, travel

A Hike in Tallulah Gorge State Park

1 November 2014 by Raul 2 Comments

Tallulah Gorge State Park is located pretty much in the northeast corner of the state of Georgia. The park centers around the Tallulah Gorge around the – guess what- Tallulah River. The river starts in North Carolina and eventually makes its way to the Savannah River and the Atlantic Ocean. It has a series of waterfalls which are collectively called -wait for it- Tallulah Falls! It is supposed to be the most scenic canyon on the eastern seaboard of the U.S. with a depth of about 1,000 ft. A hike in Tallulah Gorge is a must while in the area!

I visited the canyon around mid-October. It was an unusually warm October so the leaves had not begun to change yet for real. Driving to the park from Atlanta takes about 1.5 hrs, slightly less if you live or are staying at in the northern suburbs of the metro Atlanta.

The park has an Interpretive Center with information and exhibits for the young and the not-so-young. These cover the history of the former resort town, local wildlife, and other topics. The staff at the center is quite helpful and knowledgeable about the park and its vicinity.

Going for an easy hike in Tallulah Gorge

For the non-hiker or those who are interested in seeing some of the waterfalls but not climb steep staircases, the park has natural paths along the north and south rims of the gorge that are pretty easy to walk through. These paths offer various vantage points, or overlooks, from which to soak in the view. Walking along the north rim you can see the tower that held the tightrope Karl Wallenda used when he crossed the gorge in 1970!

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The view from the north rim near the Interpretive Center

Checking out the gorge from one of the overlooks on the north rim

The north/south rim hike is about 3 miles long round-trip. Depending on the pace, the hike along the Tallulah Gorge should be doable in a couple of hours. From the first overlook, closest to the start of the trail at the Interpretive Center, there is a great view of the L’Eau d’Or (Ladore) waterfalls where yours truly had his pic taken!

Looking down at L’Eau d’Or waterfalls from the overlook

Going for a deeper hike down the gorge

For those wanting to get closer to the waterfalls, the river and the bottom of the gorge… there are stairs!! Over 1,000 steps!

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Let the stairs begin!

From the first overlook where my picture was taken, you can proceed to the Devil’s Pulpit where you get a great face on view of L’Eau d’Or.

L’Eau d’Or

From this point the large staircase takes the hiker to the suspension bridge that connects the south and north rims of the gorge.

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Crossing the bridge

Once on the south rim, one can access the bottom of the gorge. On some days, it is possible to go further at the bottom of the gorge but only the first 100 people get the needed pass. However, because of the water release schedule for the upriver dam, the bottom of the gorge is not always open. It was not when I went. That was unfortunate because I would have loved to jump into the pool!!

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Pool at the bottom of the gorge

Once you reach the bottom, you can take a look at Hurricane Falls and dream of sliding down those rocks!

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Hurricane Falls from the bottom of the Gorge

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Signs a-plenty – “rattlesnake” weed doesn’t sound good, does it??

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The view you are rewarded with from the rim!

A hike in Tallulah Gorge is very enjoyable and quite doable as day trip from Atlanta or from places in Tennesse and North Carolina. Do not miss this chance to see an amazing setting, whether for an arduous hike or a stroll!

Read about these other great hikes in Georgia:

Sope Creek

Sweetwater Creek

Island Ford

… and more to come!

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, US & Canada Tagged With: canyon, Georgia, hikes near Atlanta, hiking in Georgia, hiking trails in Georgia, nature, outdoors, photo, Samsung Galaxy, Tallulah Falls, Tallulah Gorge

Photo of the Week: Sunset over Santa Barbara, California

5 August 2014 by Raul 1 Comment

Nothing like a beautiful sunset. And even better: one in California! So I will celebrate that with TWO, not one, of my favorite sunset pictures I took while visiting Santa Barbara!

Filed Under: California, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: beach, California, Olympus, photo, Santa Barbara, sunset, travel

Michigan Wine Country: Unexpected and Beautiful

27 May 2014 by Raul 7 Comments

I was looking forward to visiting Traverse City, Michigan and exploring the neighboring areas but little did I know my timing was going to be SO good. You see, that weekend, the Leelanau Peninsula Spring Sip & Wine was taking place (check here for other events!). Over 20 wineries participated and the ticket included a small appetizer and several tastings of wine at each participating winery. Heaven!

I did have to mind how many places I visited as I only had one afternoon and I would not want to rush just to score more wineries! (<- crazy talk) Plus, it was my first time in the area so I wanted to also admire the scenery.

Upon entering Leelanau Peninsula, our first stop was the Ciccone Vineyards.

If the last name sounds familiar, it is Madonna‘s last name: it is her Dad’s winery. I don’t know the full story but I know at some point (and maybe still) they are not close. The “savor” part at this winery was the homemade chili by the owner. It was delicious and perfect given the rainy weather at that point in the day. We enjoyed chatting with the staff!

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The grounds of the Ciccone vineyards

My partner-in-crime, er, fellow traveler and I moved on to Blustone Vineyards which stole a piece of my heart… Why? They were serving CUBAN PERNIL (pork)!!!! As a 100% Cuban-blooded human being and cook of Cuban pork myself I was impressed with the quality of the pork. The pork was from Georgina‘s in Traverse City (I looked at their menu online and I immediately started salivating!! Next time in TC, I will HAVE to visit!). Kudos!

Plus, the wine at Blustone was the most impressive of the whole lot I sampled on this visit. I also did love the space: modern, spacious, and well lit with natural light. It got quite packed after we arrived but there still was plenty of space to hang around. Good job, Blustone!

Random driving led us to encounter 45 North winery. “What’s with the name?,” you may say? Well, it is near the 45th parallel, halfway between the Equator and the North Pole!

The place was festive on the inside and out as you can see! We enjoyed being served our tastings there and watching the “hat scene”. Good job, 45 North!

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The tasting area and the bottle tree that greets visitors – pretty cool!

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What greeted us upon entering the testing room!

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One of the cleverest hats I saw!

It was time to keep on trucking along and we decided to go to Old Mission Peninsula to try a winery that was recommended, Brys Estate. I enjoyed their reds – and the view of the east bay. Though there was a great outdoor seating area with Adirondack chairs, because of the slightly weather, we did not partake of the outdoor. But that was fine because we enjoy chatting with our server and some of the other visitors.

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A view of the east bay

So, after this Saturday spent driving around these and other Michigan wineries, I can safely say it is a GREAT way to explore the beauty of Michigan – and enjoying delicious food and wines! I do hope to return as there were many wineries I did not get to check out. I love having a reason to go back to places I like!

Filed Under: Good Eats and Drinks, Michigan, Travel Journal, US & Canada, Wine Tagged With: Brys, Ciccone, exploring, food, foodie, Leelanau, Michigan, Peninsula, photo, Sip and Savor, travel, Traverse City, vineyards, Wine, wine tasting, winery

The Grand Traverse Resort and Spa: Something for Everyone!

13 May 2014 by Raul 8 Comments

I had the opportunity to head north to Michigan recently to explore the town and area around Traverse City. Mind you, I had only learned about Traverse City a couple of years ago when I read about it from one of my favorite travel blogs, The Working Mom’s Travels. So, always ready to explore new places, I did not hesitate to make the trip even though I could only go for a weekend.

Getting there required a connection for me coming from Atlanta but, frankly, it was easy as a Michigan cherry pie as Detroit is a great airport, easy to navigate and with many flights in and out to my place of origin and my destination. Traverse City is but 10 minutes away from the airport, a straight drive in.

I arrived at my place of stay, the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa in no time. The courtesy airport pickup was excellent and my driver, Aaron, did a great job of giving me an intro to the area. His friendliness was just the first one I experienced after arriving but it was not to be the only one at the GT Resort and Spa! (I like the GT abbreviation they use because I went to university at another GT: Georgia Tech!)

When I arrived, the place was packed as there was a convention that weekend but everything flowed smoothly, with check-in being lightning fast. The Grand Lobby is large and has multiple seating areas (so many hotels these days forget to make their lobby inviting; I like it when they feel almost like a living room) including one in front of a fireplace, another in front of a piano, and a couple of others, including a small bar area.

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Lobby at the Grand Traverse Resort & Spa

The hotel has about 600 rooms, a combination of standard hotel rooms, suites, and condos, some privately owned. Wifi is free and it’s everywhere – now THAT scores high on my list of amenities, as I am sure does for everyone. It gets so old to go to a hotel where you have to pay for it… Come on, people, move on to the 2010s before the 2020s get here!

Since I arrived later in the afternoon, I decided to stay in and not go into town (I knew that would be on my agenda on the next day anyway). So I opted to check out the health club facilities and explore some of the resort. I guess I am not surprised their health club was larger and more complete than a standard hotel as this is not a standard hotel. Plenty of treadmills, elliptical, rowing machine, etc. and not of the archaic kind (mental note: add this to my hotel pet peeves list…). The health club overlooks a large indoor tennis facility that apparently is well known. I didn’t count how many courts but at least 5, if not more. So if you pick the right piece of equipment and your timing is right, instead of watching TV, you may be able to watch a live tennis match! Next door is a large indoor pool entertainment area with stuff for kids of all ages to enjoy. Pretty neat place.

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Pool area

With the workout done ahead of eating a big meal (see how I plan ahead??), it was time to shower and get a cat nap in. The bed and pillows were so comfortable it took me no time to get to that nap.

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Look at that bed!! All comfort!

Recharged, I decided it was time to discover some Michigan wines since I had never tried one before. Yes, I had planned to taste some wines the next day as part of Leelanau Peninsula’s Sip & Savor festival but I am nothing if not a student and a learner, so no harm in pre-research 🙂 The resort’s up-high restaurant and bar, the Aerie Restaurant and Lounge, sits on the 16^th floor of the tower at the Grand Traverse. I really liked the openness of the bar and restaurant with great views of the East Grand Traverse Bay and the golf course at the resort. Unfortunately, it was cloudy that day so the setting’s incredible sunset views were not going to happen for me but I can only imagine how spectacular the sunset must be from up there.

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The Aerie offers great vistas 360 degrees

Having sampled a couple of wines, I proceeded to have dinner. There is not bad table at the Aerie since they all have a window view. In the area where I sat, the booths away from the windows are slightly raised above the floor so you also can get a pretty unobstructed view from them – and so I did. I enjoyed a blackened trout and a spinach salad that were tasty and fresh. I capped the meal with their version of a bananas foster which consisted of a small scoop of cinnamon ice cream, dark chocolate pot de crème, chocolate mousse chips, bruleed bananas, and banana cheesecake. Pretty. Dang. Delicious. I got to my room and in no time I had fallen asleep fully clothed… That’s a good night!

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The awesome dessert that closed up my meal

Though some signs of the age of the wing I stayed were evident (other wings are newer), for the most part a good effort has been made to update the spaces, especially the rooms and bathrooms. The room I stayed at had two double beds and was quite large with a side view towards the East Grand Traverse Bay with Old Mission Peninsula in the background – not bad!

Though I am not a golfer, if you are, this may be a perfect place for you. Their main golf course, aptly named “The Bear,” is a Jack Nicklaus signature course and I hear it is for those who like a good challenge! They have two other golf courses in the 900-acre property, one a Gary Player signature course (“The Wolverine”) and another designed by William Newcomb (the more pleasantly named “Spruce Run”). Looking out the window of the Aerie, I was begrudging not having pursued learning how to golf! (I did briefly try in the late 1990s but if you keep missing the ball when you tee off, you know it is time to pursue other interests…)

On the day of my departure, I went for a massage at the spa. Work had been hectic the week before and my last massage was four months ago so I was overdue for one to help set me right. A mid-morning massage, a couple of hours before heading to the airport, was the right thing to close up the weekend visit. Using cherry infused oils (I was worried the smell would be too much but it was actually subtle), the relaxation massage was just what I needed before returning home to face the work week after such a fun weekend.

I am glad I invested my time and money to visit Traverse City and in an upcoming post, you will see what else contributed to making this such a fun and excellent weekend!

Have YOU been to Traverse City and its vicinity? What is your favorite spot? I leave you with the view from my room towards the East Grand Traverse Bay!

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View towards East Grand Traverse Bay

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I was hosted at the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa during this visit. Opinions all ilivetotravel’s.

Filed Under: Michigan, US & Canada Tagged With: blue sky, East Grand Traverse Bay, food, Grand Traverse Resort, hotel, Michigan, photo, travel, Traverse City, view, vista

Sope Creek: A Hike, a Creek, and an Old Mill

8 May 2014 by Raul 3 Comments

I was looking for another spot in Atlanta to hike while also hitting some waterway AND hitting history after having enjoyed going to Sweetwater Creek and to Island Ford (on the Chattahoochee River). Tall order, huh? NOT in Atlanta! Plenty of spots along creeks and rivers to find great hiking and reminders of the life in the South back when mills ruled the day. Enter, stage left, Sope Creek.

I am training for hiking the Camino de Santiago in Spain with Trekking for Kids, an organization that took me to Transylvania’s “Alps” in Romania and to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro. As part of my training, I want to do more than Kennessaw Mountain or Stone Mountain. So after some research and talking to friends, I discovered the many trails that are right within 15 miles of the city, like Island Ford, for example.

But on another weekend, I wanted to try something new. I was taking friends’ kids out on this hike so it also had to be friendly enough for me and three other kids 🙂 That’s when a co-worker recommended Sope Creek, a creek where a Civil War era mill use to operate and whose ruins you can not only see but also get up close and personal with!

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The old mill ruins

The kids, aged 14, 10, and 8, were excited to come for the hike. I decided to take the longer way to the creek so that the “hard work” took place before we saw the creek and the mill which I figured would be the highlight of the hike.

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Early on the hike, we ran into a small lake.

The park has both hiking-only trails and hiking/biking trails so we did have to keep our eyes and ears open to approaching bikes but the mountain bikers were pretty much nice and careful which we appreciated. The trails are well-signed and the younger kids enjoyed trying to figure out which way to with the map and the signage while the older kid and I allowed ourselves to be guided.

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Tadpoles in our midst!

The trail approached the creek by going almost parallel to it but up high. It was a nice view and trail which then went away from the creek for a little bit. We ended up crossing a trickle of a creek right after spotting three deer.

Eventually, we made it to the old mill and the creek.

Looking south

The kids explore the ruins of the mill and then proceeded to walk towards the large rocks at the edge of the creek.

Kids climbing around the old mill ruins

It was fun climbing and walking on the rocks.

Two of the three climbing around the rocks

We hung there for a little bit enjoying the scenery and the climbing. It was also a great spot for pictures and for a snack.

I love this shot: She looks Photoshopped in!

All that done, we proceeded to exit the park by following the trail that is parallel to the road. It deviated from the road a little bit because the trail was under repair but it was easy to make it back to the parking lot.

After the hike, we were hungry and the kids had asked for Cracker Barrel (they love it because I keep calling it Crate & Barrel, accidentally!). It was the perfect ending for a great hike! The kiddos are definitely hikers and explorers!

Yours truly

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Read about these other great hikes in Georgia:

… and more to come!

Filed Under: Georgia, Hiking, North Georgia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Atlanta hikes, Civil War ruins in Atlanta, Georgia, hiking, nature, old mill, outdoors, Paper Mill Road, rapids, Sope Creek, tadpoles, trails in Atlanta

Chattahoochee River Hikes: Island Ford

14 April 2014 by Raul 9 Comments

Atlanta is well known for traffic, a massive airport, CNN, Coca-Cola, conventions, and Gone with the Wind. It seems almost cliche-ish when defined in these terms and I can certainly understand that these form or inform people’s image of the South’s “Gate City,” as it was known in the mid 19th century. What local residents and frequent visitors know, though, is that the city is a vibrant and diverse collection of areas. The international farmer’s market by I-285 is a great example of this diversity that visitors don’t often get to see.

Another fact that may be surprising is how this city, so built up and loaded with cars, is actually in the midst of the great outdoors. I shared already about how close Sweetwater Creek State Park is to the city (only 15 miles). Here I want to shared another great nature spot, right within and right outside the city’s ring road (I-285): the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, part of the U.S. National Park Service.

The lay of the Chattahoochee River

The Chattahoochee River, or the “Hootch“, starts up in the North Georgia mountains where the Buford Dam was established to control its flow and accumulate water to provide for the city. It then makes its way to the Gulf of Mexico via western Atlanta then Alabama, then Florida. The river does not cross the modern city center as rivers tend to do in other cities. The city’s location was driven by railroad lines connecting the Gulf, the Atlantic ports and the Midwest back in the first half of the 19th century. So, we did not end up with a river going through the city center (a shame!).

However, it does go through urban areas right outside the city of Atlanta proper and we were lucky that it became a protected area in the 1970s so we could enjoy this bit of nature. All along the river, as it courses through metro Atlanta, there are parks and trails, offering great walking, running, mountain biking, hiking, picnicking, etc. Here I want to share with you about one of them and hope to continue sharing other spots in the future.

I bet it looks very different in the middle of summer!

Island Ford

A few miles outside of I-285, as you head up on GA-400, you reach the headquarters of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area’s headquarters. As with many parks, friendly staff and rangers are a phenomenal source of information and advice, both of which we enjoyed getting.

Park rangers are a great source of information to those visiting the park

Again, as with other parks like scene, they park service charges a nominal fee for use of the park in the form of a parking permit that costs only $3. Bring singles as you make payment by putting the three dollars in an envelope and drop it in a box!

Incredible stones everywhere in the area, including in the river!

The trails around Island Ford provide both flat areas as well as steep hills to challenge hikers. The circuit of trails here could take around 1.5-2.5 hours (depending on how many of the trails you hit and your speed!) and they are suitable for beginners. Apparently, it is also a good spot for trout fishing – who knew!

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Trout fishing fun

The trails ford a couple of creeks that feed the river and offer great views of the river but also of rock formations that natives are said to have used for shelter as far back as 1,000 years ago!

The star of the show working his way over a log

The Chattahoochee Parks Conservancy supports parks along the river in many ways to ensure our enjoyment of these natural areas. Visit their site and become a member or supporter!

Read about these other great hikes in Georgia:

… and more to come!