Alemania - ilivetotravel's travel log

Some of My Favorite Spots in Berlin

20 February 2020 by Raul 1 Comment

Many times I write about my exploring right after I return home, when the memories are fresh and I first go through all the photos I took during my trip. Today, I thought I’d re-visit my days in Berlin less than a couple of years ago.

Reichstag Building, Dach, Berlin, Bundestag, rooftop view of Berlin, Alemania, Germany — From the rooftop terrace of the Reichstag Building

The capital of reunited Germany is laden with history and symbolism. I think it always has been. It is a peculiar place simply because of all the volumes of history written in its streets, buildings and fields.

All that provides someone visiting the city with many items to add to a list of must-sees. Here, I will share the places I enjoyed the most in Berlin. Maybe they will end up in your list of what to see in Berlin! I will start with the museums and move on to other places…

The many museums in Berlin’s Museum Island

Museum Island is a treasure trove of important museums. The Pergamon Museum, the Neues Museum, the Altes Museum, the National Gallery, and the Bode Museum are some of the museum options that will -I am sure- wear out even the most museum-addicted visitor.

berlin, museum island, bode museum, derliner dom, pergamon museum — Berliner Dom on the right, Bode Museum on the left, and the rest in the middle!

With museums, having a plan is key as covering all the works on display is about impossible with large museums or in an area with so many of them. I did not have enough days in Berlin to explore all of these (save the Pergamon Museum) so I can’t attest to their “visit worthiness”. However, the Neues Museum has the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti, an item I wished I had seen in person since I have visited the tomb where it was found in Egypt …

Of course, there are many other museums in town beyond Museum Island so, keep exploring! (Keep reading for a later entry in this post about a Berlin Wall museum…)

A museum of greatness: Pergamon

The Pergamon Museum stands out due to the grandeur of the building and some of the contents (like the Ishtar Gate and other grand remnants of historic places from antiquity. The museum was established before World War I and, thankfully, its art and objects were safeguarded so they survived the destruction brought to the city by World War II. The Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate, the Miletus Market and the large collection of Assyrian statues/busts were some of my favorite things to see firsthand. It is a big museum and could consume a long time so plan properly. For my tips for a well-done visit, check my earlier post about the Pergamon Museum.

Post-World War II history museum

The Allied Museum in the “suburb” of Dahlem (in what used to be West Berlin) caught my eye and I made an easy trip on the U-Bahn to get to see it but, rookie mistake, I did not check opening schedule and it was closed that day. From the outside, I did get to see some of the large items placed outdoors from across the fence and it really made me regret not checking the schedule first!

Allied Museum in Berlin, checkpoint charlie, berlin, old airplane

I did walk around the residential streets of Dahlem and it was cool to see a very different type of neighborhood than most European cities have. I almost felt I was back in the U.S. (though there was still differences). I am not sure if the history of the area is that these homes were built during the American occupation of the area post-World War II, or if they pre-date those times. I knew of the area as a good friend was born there while his father was stationed in Germany in the early 1970s so that gave me context for the area and explains why the Allied Museum as well as a U.S. consulate office are located there vs. closer in to the heart of Berlin.

Dahlem, occupied zone, Berlin, Germany — A house in Dahlem

The DDR Museum – throwback to the Cold War

On the slight whimsical side, yet filled with interesting info and artifacts, is the DDR Museum right next to Museum Island. It takes one back to how life in Communist East Germany was and has great imagery (physical and digital) to do that. If you were born after the fall of the Iron Curtain (1989), this may be a curiosity but to those who remember the Cold War, it may be a more vivid reminder of those times that now seem like ancient history, almost surreal!

Great rooftop views of Berlin – and great food!

The Bundestag, Germany’s federal parliament, is housed since 1999 in what has to be one of my favorite buildings in the city: the Reichstag Building. It was built in the latter part of the 19th century and fell into disuse after a fire in the 1930s and the effects of World War II. It never functioned again as a diet or parliament until well after German reunification in the 1990s.

Its modernistic dome is fun to climb via the long ramps and it will offer great photo opportunities of the outdoor and the indoor (if you look straight down inside, you are looking at the chamber where the politicians meet).

what to see in Berlin, Reichstag Building, Bundestag, dome in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The unique dome and its ramps

The rooftop terrace provides great views of the city.

SPree River, Berlin, Germany — The Spree River

German Chancellery, Bundeskanzleramt, Berlin, German government, Germany — The German Chancellery

But, being a bit of a foodie, my favorite part of the Reichstag Building was its rooftop restaurant (Dachgarten Restaurant) named Käfer. Its breakfast offerings are delicious. I hear that it is also a great place to go before sunset to enjoy the views with the sunset colors of the sky.

Tips to visit the Bundestag’s rooftop restaurant, Käfer

You need to make reservations to be able to go (on the link provided above, scroll down to get the reservation form). The exact info on every visitor will need to be provided when making the reservation for security measures. Upon arrival, allow extra time ahead of the reservation time to go through security where you will need to provide valid photo ID (I suggest your passport).

Bundestag, Reichstag Building, entrance for visitors to the Bundestag, Berlin, Alemania, Germany — Secured entrance for visitors facing the Tiergarten

Walking Berlin’s unique neighborhoods

I was lucky that one of my Godchildren lives in Berlin and besides spending time together, he showed me very unique neighborhoods that perhaps as a tourist, I may have never gotten to explore. If you have the time and don’t mind meandering, I highly recommend walking around these neighborhoods, mostly in the former East Berlin. Some areas to consider exploring: Alexanderplatz, Prenzlauerberg, and Kreuzberg.

I was told and I could tell that the areas of the former East Berlin have a slightly different feel than those of the former West. The difference may be blurring some but it is detectable and feeds the curiosity of those of us who never saw the city before reunification as to how things must have been…

Eatery in the former East Berlin, Berlin bar

Badfish Bar, Prenzlauerberg, East Berlin, Berlin best bar — I loved Badfish Bar!!

Berlin’s Cathedral

Compared to many other German European cathedrals, Berlin Cathedral’s (Berliner Dom) interior did not really do anything for me (though it still had some splendor).

However, its exterior is impressive and going up to the dome for the views may be cool to do if you are into that (I am!). There are other churches around town so if you like to check them out, I’d say go for it. My limited time in town, unfortunately, prevented more exploring. But Berlin has so many unique things other cities don’t have that I don’t regret my prioritization!

Kaiser Wilhelm’s Memorial Church

OK, I know I said I did not get to explore churches. But this one is different. Not much of the church remains and that is the point. It was not an old church to begin with. But, after it suffered destruction during the war, it was decided not to re-build it so it could serve as a reminder of the hard times Berlin has known and the horrors of war. It is well worth the visit though and, along the way, explore this more modern and commercial area of Berlin.

Kaiser Wilhelm Church, ruins in Berlin, memorials in Berlin, Berliner kirche, what to see in Berlin

Eating at KdW!

Oh, and while around there, do NOT miss “KdW“! Kaufhaus des Westens is a large department store à la Galeries Lafayette in Paris.

Not much of a shopper here but exploring its marzipan and chocolate section was a walk through paradise. And then do not miss eating one of the Berliner Currywurst in one of the food counters in one of the top floors!!!

KdW, Berlin department store, Berliner currywurst, famous Berlin hot dog, German dishes — Currywurst with fries and a beer at KdW!

The Brandenburg Gate

Of course, you were waiting for me to talk about this (and the next item), weren’t you? Well, yes, of course I have to list it in this post. The iconic Brandenburg Gate is a must for a photo (selfie or not!). It is located near important embassies and across one end of the Tiergarten Park. The gate dates from the late 18th century and is in a location where there used to be another gate in the past. It is monumental and impressive! The Berlin Wall used to go right in front of it (remember Reagan’s speech telling Gorbie to “tear down that wall”?) as the gate was in East Berlin.

Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten, tear down that wall, monuments in Berlin, what to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania

Remnants of the Berlin Wall

For many of us, likely, nothing evokes Berlin as the Berlin Wall that lived almost 30 years in the midst of this great city, dividing its people and its essence.

The history of the boundary between East and West Berlin is fascinating once you read up on it. Having lived in the era of the wall, I thought generally there had always been a hard barrier between the two halves of the city once the post-WWII period began.

Well, actually, that was not the case in the immediate years of the post-WWII period. People could cross through between the two parts of Berlin. It was not until the living standard of West Berliners started surpassing that of the East Berliners that the Communist regime had to erect a barrier to prevent people voting with their feet (since they had no free elections for their leaders…). Also, wanting to isolate and demoralize the Westerners also played part, I assume.

In any case, there are some remnants of the wall still standing (thankfully) such as the pieces in the large Postdamer Platz, right next to where I stayed during my visit. It is well-signed including photos of how the area looked while the city was divided, and a good spot for photos.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin Ritz Carlton, Berlin Wall today, Berlin Mauer, muro de Berlin hoy — The Berlin Wall remnants at Potsdamer Platz

Even more fascinating for me are the places where the wall used to be is marked on the pavement or sidewalks of the city. This trail makes the past reality a little more vivid as you can feel the seeming randomness of the wall’s route. It also is puzzling as you see of all sudden the trail go into a new-ish building’s wall and wonder how the space was before the building was built. I loved running into this trail as I meandered around town!

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin — The 2-brick wide trail in the middle of the street marks where the wall was

Berlin Wall, muro de Berlin, Berliner Mauer, Alemania, Germany, what to see in Berlin, Brandenburg Gate — Find the trail looking towards the Brandenburg Gate from the Reichstag

Topography of Terror and the Wall

A very large portion of the wall is still in place by the Topography of Terror Museum. You can walk along it and read about the times… The museum itself has a LOT of information of the terrible events brought about by the Nazis in the many “boards” with plenty of photos. I think it was well-done but the topic is definitely overwhelming…

Berlin Wall remnants, Berliner Mauer, muro de Berlin, Alemania, Germany, Topography of Terror

Checkpoint Charlie is nearby. Go for it… #underwhelming

Memorial to the Murdered Jews

This large memorial between the Brandenburg Gate and Postdamer Platz deserves some time. I did not get to see the indoor exhibit due to the time of my visit but the outdoor place certainly made feel sad. Whoever had the inspiration for this very unique memorial’s design nailed it. It was really off-putting to see folks climbing on the pieces and posing for funny photos as if they were in a regular park. Of course, I don’t have an issue with photos but certainly expect some respect given the reason this memorial was needed… #neveragain

Memorial to Murdered Jews, Jewish memorial in Berlin, monumento a los judios, Berlin, Germany, post world war ii berlin

A non-site: Hitler’s bunker

Hitler’s underground bunker, as you may know, is where he and some of his minions lost their lives by their own hands or others’. The bunker was destroyed in the Communist period, I imagine, to prevent any crazies from ever making it a memorial, even if just in their mind.

Today, we do know where the bunker was (curiously, not far from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews) and there is a residential building and its yard built on the spot. A small, non-descript sign on the sidewalk gives some information. One cannot really memorialize such a place but, from a historical standpoint, I certainly wanted to see what the area looked like today. (The residential building is on Wilhelmstrasse.)

Hitler's bunker today, where Hitler died, World War II Berlin, places to see in Berlin, Germany, Alemania — The site today

This post does not Berlin justice. There is so much more to see and do that I can cover.

But, I hope, it gives you some interesting new places to consider while including some well-known ones. Berlin is a never-ending exploration!

Filed Under: Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, Berlin, berlin wall, germany, kafer

Aachen and its Imperial Cathedral

3 January 2020 by Raul 2 Comments

Aachen is a town of a quarter million located in a corner of western Germany that abuts Belgium and The Netherlands (in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, to be more precise). History lovers and architecture fans will probably know of this German town. Its importance over centuries past was huge.

Architecture of Aachen, Germany — Buildings near the Cathedral

Why is Aachen important?

The spot has been inhabited for sure since Roman times. But, probably, Aachen’s importance gained territory when Charlemagne became a fan. Charlemagne should sound familiar from world history class though you can be forgiven if you don’t remember the why… He unified parts of Europe a few centuries after Rome fell and became what was called the first Holy Roman Emperor (maybe so-called because he was crowned in the precursor to today’s St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome?). Many came after him though later it stopped being a hereditary role – it was elected by important members of nobility of certain houses of Central and Western Europe (if I remember correctly).

Model of Aachen's Cathedral — Aachen’s famous Cathedral started with the structure in the center (the Octagon)

Building Aachen’s Cathedral

Charlemagne had spent time in Aachen years before he became Holy Roman Emperor and had a chapel (and palace) built there. This chapel (which only was declared a Cathedral in 1930) became where these emperors were crowned for centuries (from the 10th to the 16th). The Aachen Cathedral is where Charlemagne was buried (and claimed to be to this day).

Plan of the Cathedral of Aachen in a plaque outside the Cathedral — Plaque showing the layout of the Cathedral

The golden box in the altar (known as Karlsschrein) is supposedly where his remains were placed after being removed from another location within the church,

Karlsschrein or coffin with Charlemagne's remains — The *Karlsschrein* where Charlemagne’s remains are (may be)

Altar of the Aachen Cathedral (Germany) — Zooming out, the *Karlsschrein* in the back behind the altar in the choir

Another angle showing more of the choir and stained glass windows

The Cathedral structure began to be built in the ninth century but was added to or expanded in later centuries. The Cathedral’s façade betrays its construction over several centuries (architectural preferences). Its cupola and steeple were also added later.

The lower tower has a different style than the upper

View of the Cathedral’s position: a very tight plaza in front of it

Its interior was also enhanced by adding the marbled walls and the mosaics, for example.

Marbled walls of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany — The marble is outstanding!

The columns and arches supporting the cupola remind me of the Mezquita de Cordoba (Spain; the Cordoba Mosque; see photo below). Another addition was the 4-meter diameter chandelier donated by Barbarossa who was emperor in the 12th century.

Ceiling / Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral and Barbarossa's chandelier — So much to admire in this pic! At bottom, Barbarossa’s chandelier

The mosaics in the ceiling and on the high part of the main level columns are pure beauty.

Ceiling of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany with its golden mosaics — Mosaics in the cupola

Mosaics of the Aachen Cathedral in Germany

Christmas market in Aachen

My mother and I made a short stop in Aachen on our way from Brussels, Belgium to Cologne, Germany to embark on our Rhine River cruise. After visiting the Cathedral’s interior, we walked around its exterior where we ran into our first Christmas market experience – and our first cup of glühwein (of many throughout our cruise!).

Exterior of Aachen's Cathedral (Aachen Dom) in Germany — Beautiful exterior

Christmas market in Aachen, Germany — The Christmas markets

Glühwein is mulled wine: diluted wine (red or wine) mixed with spices and heated up to keep Christmas market visitors warm in the cold day or night of French or German towns in December! Sometimes they add a shot of rum or another hard liquor to strengthen it but I just enjoyed the diluted wine version as I was just looking for warmth in my hands and tummy!

Gluhwein in Aachen, Germany — My Mom enjoyed her 1st gluhwein, all bundled up (you are not in FLA anymore!)

The Cathedral remains one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe. It suffered great damage during World War II but the main structure remained. We are fortunate today to have this jewel still present to link us to history, faith and architecture over the centuries.

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Aachen, Alemania, Barbarossa chandelier, Charlemagne, church mosaics in Germany

Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

1 August 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin. I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.). This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere. More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck. It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town: Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea. I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate. And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm. Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that. But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

I have to be frank: I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip. Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar. I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia. Its origins can be traced to the 1100s. I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903! Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around. Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot. It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings. And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed. Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start. Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II.

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960. The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design. That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened. Powerful.

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The bell tower from 2 sides

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.

Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower. It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part. So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!

salmon, German potato cakes, German food, comida alemana, Wismar, Germany

This was an amazing lunch and a nice break from sightseeing!

Beautiful image to close out this post on this charming Baltic town!

Save this image to your travel pin board!

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, brick Gothic architecture, churches in the former East Germany, Communist towns in Germany, discover Germany, East Germany, Hanseatic League towns, reise, travel, travel in Germany, turismo, Wismar

Images of Hamburg: A City in Photos

10 September 2018 by Raul 1 Comment

Having written some posts on what to see in Hamburg, I wanted to share some images of Hamburg that did not make it to those posts. Some are of Hamburg’s architecture or its setting, and some are a little more random. Hope you enjoy these images and that they make you want to explore this former Hanseatic League city!

The High Views in Hamburg

As you may have read in posts about Chicago, Sydney or my top 8 climbs in Europe, I like going high (not the same as “getting high”!) to soak in the vastness of a place and get my bearings. Well, Hamburg is no exception. I wrote about St. Nicholas Church where I got to see the city from up high. But there are more photos to share that I included in that post…

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

Looking towards the entrance to the old Elbe tunnel

Looking down to Speicherstadt and Hafencity

The Architecture in Hamburg

Like many city, really, Hamburg has great architecture. It is an amalgamation of styles from pre-World War II that survived to modern and post-modern and just frigging funky. You can see some more of these styles in my skyline photos in the Elbe Tunnel post, or in my unofficial guide to Hamburg covering places like Speicherstadt, Blankenese‘s stair district, the Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie), and the Chilehaus. But here are some other photos of the architecture in Hamburg that I really liked.

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Neat tile work and handrail

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany, statues in Hamburg

Lots of these statues atop doorways or along outer walls

Staircase at the Chilehaus

Along Speicherstad

Another cool building

Not sure what style this is but it looks very cool

The Eclectic in Hamburg

Hamburg, like any big city, will have its quirky quarters and scenes. Here are some images of Hamburg to help you visualize the eclectic side of Hamburg!

motorcycle, motorrad DDR, hamburg street scene, travel

Old school DDR

hamburg architecture, architektur, arquitectura, germany, travel

The building must be melting with the heat wave…

curb art, Hamburg street scene, bottle cap art, travel

Bottle caps as part of the curb

The Canals of Hamburg

Hamburg is a little like the Venice of northern Europe. The city center area is ground zero for the canals. I read somewhere that it boasts more bridges inside its city limits than any other city. Also, it is supposed to have more canals than Amsterdam or Venice – I find that hard to believe but not because I have any data or have studied the topic 🙂 So I will share a couple of images about the canals.

Pin this image of Hamburg to your board!

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, architecture, architektur, germany, Hamburg, Hamburgo, images of Hamburg

12 Things to Do in Hamburg for Free

3 September 2018 by Raul 15 Comments

Hamburg may not be known as the tourism mecca that Paris, London, Rome or others are. But it is a fascinating city to explore for its history, architecture, and culture. It was amazing when I looked back and realized how many things one can do for free in Hamburg to explore and joy this German city. So I decided to share twelve things to do in Hamburg for free There are more, for sure. Just consider this an unofficial guide to Hamburg and feel free to add via the comments below other suggestions you have (even if they are not free!).

The recommendations start at the Elbphilarmonie (Concert Hall), then move to the heart of the city and then move sort of out and westward so you can plan a route to explore following this sequence. I indicate U- or S-Ban stations near each spot when appropriate to help you plan the things to do in Hamburg.

1. Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie)

The Elbphilarmonie is the magnificent and very modern concert hall built on top of a warehouse/residential structure dating from the 1960s in the Speicherstadt district of old Hamburg. It cost nearly a billion dollars to construct and many years delay, finally opening in January 2017. One wonders what that money could have done, say, to improve lives of refugees, improve social services or the like, but the building is impressive, like it or not.

The concert hall does not sit on top of the older building: it has its own foundations. Pretty darn good engineering trick! There are two cool ways to explore the concert hall: touring it or going to the viewing level.

Elbphilarmonie, Concert Hall Hamburg, Germany, modern architecture, Hamburgo, Alemania, arquitectura, architektur

The concert hall is just something to behold!

The tour lasts about an hour and costs 15 euros as of this writing. It requires a lot of physical activity. Going to the “Plaza” or viewing level is actually free and offers great views of the city. However, there is limited capacity at that level so, if you want to guarantee your access, you can get a ticket in advance by paying a nominal fee (2 euros). [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

2. Speicherstadt

Close to the Chilehaus is the Speicherstadt district. This district was the warehouse district for decades. It was built in the late 1800s and seems to have survived WW II bombings so enough buildings either were OK or could be repaired (others were lost). The warehouses served a unique purpose in this important German port back when it was a customs-free zone. The rows of warehouses run long along canals and have access both from the water and the streets. It is curious to note that they are built on a foundation that uses timber poles to anchor them.

It is also neat to see how the whole district has been re-vitalized, I presume with new construction where the old buildings were destroyed in the war. As usual, modern German architecture is really fun to explore – they are much more creative than architects back home! [U-Bahn station: Baumwall]

3. St. Nicholas Church

I wrote about this church, in the heart of Hamburg, in an earlier post. It is a simple yet powerful reminder of the craziness of dictatorship and war. It is almost park-like but the message is clear. Of the list of things to do in Hamburg, this is for sure the most thought-provoking. In addition, St. Nicholas Church’s bell tower offers a phenomenal vantage point of the city (you do have to pay for that view…). [U-Bahn stations: Rathaus or Rödingsmarkt]

Hamburg, St. Nicholas Church, Germany, WWII ruins, Hamburgo, travel, Alemania

Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

4. Chilehaus

If you love interesting architecture, stuff you don’t normally see, the Chilehaus (Chile House) building, with its massive scale, is the right sight for you. The building, in the Kontorhaus district of Hamburg, feels heavy with all those dark bricks but lightened by the small brick “features” that adorn in. I read somewhere that its design lends it lightness but I did not feel that lightness as an amateur.

In any case, the building dates from the 1920s and, like many things around this town, finds a way to evoke the maritime “centeredness” of the city, in this case, the shape of a ship. I had to look up why is it called the “Chile House” and learned that the shipping magnate who funded its construction made a lot of his money from trading in saltpeter from Chile.

Chilehaus, Chile Haus, Hamburg, Alemania, Hamburgo, Germany, architecture, brick in architecture

Large wavy outer wall of the Chilehaus

Chilehaus, Chile House, Casa de Chile, Hamburg, Alemania, Hamburgo, Germany, architecture, brick in architecture

Details of the exterior wall of the Chilehaus

When you are done checking the building out (and peek inside to the see old style staircases), walk some more around the area to see other old buildings. This link takes you to a live webcam offering almost 360 degree view around the Chilehaus. And I may add that it is across the street from the Chocolate Museum… [U-Bahn station: Meßberg]

5. Rathaus (City Hall)

The German word “Rathaus” is the word for “city hall.” I just love that word for a building where any politician sits. But I digress. Hamburg’s city hall is a beautiful structure close to water and the canal area of Hamburg and it houses both the First Mayor and the Parliament of the state of Hamburg. It is beautiful day or night.

Hamburg’s Rathaus was built in the late 19th century to replace the prior one that burned over 40 years before. It seems the building survived WW II well…

There are guided tours on offer during weekdays. I did not take the tour but I imagine it is a beautiful building inside… [U-Bahn station: Rathaus]

Germany, Alemania, turismo, Hamburg, Hamburgo, Alsterfontane, Binnenalster, Hamburg fountain

Rathaus as seen from St. Nicholas Church’s belltower

6. Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

This area by the water, right near the Rathaus and the Neustadt fancy shopping district, offers a unique opportunity to feel you are somewhere like Nice enjoying a stroll, a lunch, or a beverage right by the water. In Hamburg, the water normally means the Elbe River but this lagoon-like body of water (the Binnenalster), which connects by canals to the river, has a totally different feel. You can watch the Alsterfontane, which reminded me of a similar fountain in Lake Geneva, while sitting at one of the cafés or restaurants in the area before you go to the nearby Kunsthalle Museum or the fancy stores in the Neustadt district! [U-Bahn station: Jungfernstieg]

Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

Enjoying a drink and a bite by the water

7. Planten un Blomen

Wandering a little aimlessly away from Binnenalster, we ran into the park named Planten un Blomen which does not sound German but Dutch, perhaps. It is located near the Alster and the Congress Center, forming a green belt surrounding part of the core of the city. We actually happened upon it by accident. It was nice to stroll the trails along the water features of the park and see a good number of locals enjoying the place. If you need a break from walking around and want to just find a park that feels remote from “urbanity,” this would be a great spot! [U-Bahn station: Stephansplatz]

8. Old Elbe Tunnel

Now, the route goes back to the riverside… The entrance to this old tunnel under the Elbe River is just west of the city center and down the hill from the infamous St. Pauli district (another free thing to do is walk around there…).

This neat engineering marvel (at least back when it was built) is not only worth going through but, on the other side, one is rewarded with a good view of the modest Hamburg skyline. It is free and it is quite easy to do. For more about this experience, check out this post in this blog! [S-Bahn station: Landungsbrücken]

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Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

9. Fischmarkt

Continue moving westward along the Elbe River (away from the city center; a long walk with not a lot to look at), you will eventually get to Hamburg’s famous fish market (more or less below the Altona district). The recommended thing to do is be there at the crack of dawn on a Sunday (it opens at 5 AM and closes by 9:30 AM) and see everything for sale (not just fish!).

Unfortunately, I was not in Hamburg on a Sunday so I can’t serve as a witness to the event. However, I did make it over there. I really liked the main building. Its roof had an Eiffel-like feel to it and the structure inside (I could not go it but peeked) and outside reminded be of the Central Market (Mercado Central) in Santiago, Chile. Next time I come to Hamburg, I WILL be there on a Sunday!

10. St. Pauli Street Art

The St. Pauli district is known for one thing: the St. Pauli Girl beer! Well, that may be the case in North America but it is known for being a rather raunchy place. I will let others talk about that part of the district’s “appeal” but I liked how eclectic it fell and no better example of that than the diverse and colorful street art (I will leave the raunchy ones out…). So among the things to do in Hamburg on this list, this may be the funnest! [U-Bahn stations: Feldstraße or St. Pauli]

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My favorite: the octopus wrapped around Hamburg!

11. Ottensen / Altona

Head up from the fish market to explore these two sections of town, Ottensen and Altona, just west of the heart of the city. They are very livable neighborhoods with neat modern and older buildings, pedestrian shopping areas, parks, shops, and some funky spots. Take the S-Bahn over and spent a couple of hours aimlessly walking these neighborhoods! [S-Bahn station: Hamburg-Altona station]

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Altona’s Rathaus

12. Blankenese Treppenviertel – the Stair District

Off-the-beaten path in Hamburg, and further west than Ottensen and Altona, is a district to its west named Blankenese. As I shared in this earlier post I wrote about this district, it was an area where ship owners lived back in the day. The district is beautiful with its many stairs to walk to explore the homes of these shipowners. Some of these stairs lead down to the edge of the river Elbe. It is the last in this list of the things to do in Hamburg, but not least!