How to Handle Money when Traveling: Multiple Currencies

Managing money when traveling may not be the sexiest travel topic as it does not involve recounting places seen, accidental cool discoveries, or the most delicious dessert eaten.  However, it deals with a topic that many new travelers wonder about.  And not just only new travelers.  I have traveled quite a bit and my recent trip to Europe certainly made me stop and think on a strategy for all this.

Why?  If you have visited or will be visiting a region with multiple currencies, you will get what I had to deal with.  Here is my deal:  I was visiting 5 countries using 4 different currencies and spending only about 2-3 days in most of them.  I had to figure out a strategy.

Serbia had the dinar.  The Czech Republic had the koruna.  Austria and Slovakia used the euro.  Hungary had its forints.  That presented a challenge on what to do to not end up with a lot of unused local currency to either bring home or exchange back into my currency at some brutal exchange rate (where I would be on the losing end of brutal).  I am not one to just throw away good money!

Serbia, currency, dinars, paper bills, Money when Traveling, multiple currencies

Serbian dinars

Should one get foreign currency before leaving for the trip?

Before we get to my strategy.  Let’s talk about this which is important even if just needing one foreign currency…

Some folks like to be prepared and get currency for the countries they are visiting before they leave home.  That can be out of a sense of being well-prepared or because they are nervous about arriving somewhere without local currency.  I get those two concerns.  Or, it could be that they are fearful of using ATMs in another country.

I don’t exchange money in my home country before my trip for several reasons.  Firstly, one is charged more than one should spend doing it this way.  Not to mention that some of the currencies you may need (think Serbian dinar) may not even be available in one’s home country.

Secondly, I am not worried about using ATMs in another country as, in my experience, they are no less safe than ATMs in my own country.  Perhaps 20 years ago the concern was more valid (though I have been using ATMs internationally since the networks’ connectivity became available sometime in the 1990s), but in today’s globalized world and in regions like East Asia, Australia/New Zealand, South America or Europe there should be no concerns.

Thirdly, it is easy enough to get local currency upon arrival at another country especially when arriving via an international airport or major train station.

korunas, euros, currency, paper bill, coin, Money when Traveling, multiple currencies

Czech and EU money

So how to get local currency in a foreign country?

Usually, there are ATM machines in most airports in the regions I mentioned.  However, there are two ATM types:  the ones affiliated with banks and the ones independent of those banks and just associated with some random network that costs more to use than using a regular local bank’s ATM.  I don’t want to name names here but if the most prominent label on the ATM has the word “net” in it, I would be suspicious…

Where can you find the ATMs?

  • Banks’ ATMs are usually located in the public area after one passes customs and exits to mingle with those waiting for passengers arriving.
  • Non-bank ATMs typically are found in the baggage claim area, almost preying on the overeager passenger, and sometimes in the public area too.

What I recommend and do (most of the time) is research ahead of time where the airport’s ATMs are located (most airports’ websites have this information).

Also search using your favorite search engine the names of banks so you know which are real banks’ ATMs.  Examples of banks include Raiffeisen, Ceska Sporitelna, CSOB, OTP Bank, Erste Bank, CIB Bank, etc.  Only use local banks’ ATMs!!

But is cash really needed abroad?  Are credit cards readily accepted abroad?

Great question.  Again, in the areas I mention and other countries outside of those, credit cards are generally accepted.  But even in the regions I cited, not everyone accepts credit cards.  In the heart of Vienna itself, for example, a not-small cafe we ate at did not take credit cards – and caught us by surprise as we were not paying attention.  Thankfully, ATMs were easily accessible in that area…

In addition, sometimes a purchase in a place that accepts credit cards is so small that cash payment is required.

Note:  When paying with credit cards, in many places one is offered to pay in U.S. dollars (at least for U.S.-issued credit cards) or the local currency.  ALWAYS go for the local currency as your credit card will always give you a better exchange rate than the local company handling the transaction will use to convert your tab to U.S. dollars!

However, besides those two scenarios and the note, there is also the topic of tipping which may further affect the need for having local cash…

Tipping abroad – how it works

Well, this is a topic for another post but, since many have written about it, I will only touch on a couple of points.

First, if you are from the U.S., please please understand that tipping like we tip at home is NOT necessary.  In many places, waitstaff is not paid minimum wage like at home so the need for tipping is more a courtesy or a show of gratitude than needing to help the person earn an acceptable living.

Secondly, though, tipping norms vary across countries (even in the same region!) and vary across services (taxis, bell boys, waitstaff, etc.).  So, it is best to read up ahead of time to understand what may be normal/expected in the country(ies) you are visiting.  In some places, just rounding up the bill is enough.  In others, 5-10% is typical.

Finally, there is the question of how can one tip.  Fun times…  In some places (I found this more common in Budapest than the other places), the service charge or fee is already on the bill which means that, if one pays by credit card, one does not need cash for tipping.  In the places where it was not pre-added to the tip, tipping may or may not be addable to the check (and, therefore, to the credit card) for a number of possible reasons so one may need to have cash available.  In Prague, it was hit or miss whether one could add the tip to the bill, making it unpredictable!

So how much local currency to get?

OK, having said all that, the question remains:  given the short time spent in each country, and with varying considerations, and not wanting to have to exchange money back, what was my approach?

Let me start by explaining that I have a good situation with my bank.  My bank does not have its own ATMs at home so I am always forced to use other banks’ ATMs when I do get cash.  Therefore, my bank’s policy is to refund all standard ATM fees I incur.  This played into my strategy on how to manage currencies in this trip.  I would withdraw a slightly smaller amount than I thought I needed on the first day. That was knowing I could withdraw more at another time, without incurring more costs, if I learned that credit cards were not as accepted in the places I visited, or if I needed more cash for tips, taxi rides, or small purchases.

Another aspect of my approach was that, since I was traveling with my cousins and uncle, instead of each of us facing the same dilemma, we would keep it to one of us withdrawing cash and pooling our “cash needs” since some of those expenses would be shared.  This would also reduce the fees assessed and likely leftover cash.

Managing my money when traveling on this multi-currency trip:  how did it go?

In the end, if you decide to use ATMs and have to pay the ATM fees, the tradeoff is taking the risk of one more withdrawal’s cost vs. the likelihood of ending up with leftover cash to exchange.  That is a decision that different people will handle differently.  In our case, this all worked out very well and we rarely ended with too much cash outside of local currency I wanted to bring home for family’s and friends’ kids!  Success!


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Vistas de la Antigua Matanzas, Cuba

Matanzas, Cuba -la Atenas de Cuba- es una ciudad que vibra en mi imaginación por ser por 200+ años la cuna de muchos de mis ancestros, incluyendo una abuela, varios bisabuelos, y de ahí hacia atrás hasta familias allá establecidas por la corona española para fundar en el 1693 la ciudad real de San Carlos y San Severino de Matanzas.

Sueño con ir algún día después del fin de la tiranía comunista que subyuga al ser humano.  Mientras tanto trato de conocerla “viajando” allá a través de fotografías del álbum familiar y de revistas o libros que cruzan mi camino.

Aquí unas imágenes de un folleto creado no sé hace cuánto de la Matanzas pre-desastre-del-1959 que me regaló una tía.

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How to See Lübeck, Germany – from Up High

Lübeck, Germany is an amazing medieval town with lots to see and incredible architecture and streets to explore.  An earlier post shares all these sights and places to explore.  In this post, I share how to see Lübeck from up high.  The vantage point offered by going up the tower of St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche) near the Holstentor Gate is probably best as it is almost at the center of the island where the heart of the city lies.

How to see Lübeck – first an aerial view

This aerial photo of the old town shows a couple of the places that will be mentioned – note the location of St. Peter (“St. Petri Kirche” on the map).Lübeck Map, Germany

Looking west from St. Peter’s Church

The Holstentor Gate (shown on the map above) is the symbol of Lübeck and, short of being near it on the ground, this is the best way to appreciate it.  It lies due west of St. Peter’s, a very short walk.

Salzspeicher , Holtenstor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Holtenstor Gate flanked on the left by the Salzspeicher warehouses

Salzspeicher , Holstentor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Close-up of Holstentor Gate

Salzspeicher , Holstentor Gate, Lubeck, Germany, what to see in Lubeck, travel, explore

Salzspeicher warehouses on the Trave River in Lubeck

Looking north

Looking immediately down on the north-facing side of the viewing area, you look down on Holstenstrasse, the shopping avenue that leads to the Holstentor gate.  On the top right corner, you see a bit of Marienkirche (which you can see on the map above).

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

Then looking up still facing north, there is Marienkirche, still being worked on as it is repaired from war damage.  Amazing.

View of Lubeck, Germany

Looking east

Looking east, you see St. Aegidien Church and lots of green in the background.  St. Aegidien’s Church honors an abbot born in the 7th century in Athens, Greece who lived most of his life in south France.  The history of a church on that site dates back from the 13th century and the church has mostly survived the ravages of war…

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany - St. Aegidien Church

St. Aegidien Church

Looking northeast

Looking sort of to the northeast from St. Peter’s, one sees the historical main square and market area.  On the left with a low white facade and a brick structure behind it with copper/green towers are city government offices.  Towards the centre of the buildings on the market is the Niederegger Café where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a deliciously decadent cake made of marzipan.  Mmm!!

Tip:  Go through the arcade to the street behind and you will find a Niederigger store where your eyes will pop at all the amazing ways they can craft marzipan and make great sweets…

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

The main square with government offices and markets

Looking south

Looking south you see on the right the Trave River and to the left the Cathedral (Dom) of Lübeck.  The cathedral suffered bombing and fire in World War II and, though some of the contents survived, it required major reconstruction that only got completed in 1982 as priority was given to re-building Marienkirche.  An odd fact is that, although it is a cathedral, it is not the tallest church in town due to “competition” (or, political battles more likely) between religious authorities and guilds (which helped support their churches).

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

And, finally, looking southeast

The view below shows, from above, a typical street lined up with beautiful architecture.  There are quite a few streets like this on the east side and south side of the town.  I could have kept on walking admiring the facades of these beautiful buildings.  The street seen in the center of the photo is Mühlenstrasse (look at the map at the top of this post where this street shows towards the bottom middle, and then look up on the right of the photo to see how many such side streets there are!).

View of Lubeck, Germany

You can see, I am certain, why I enjoy going up high in any town I visit so much.  Seeing it from up high gives you perspective and a sense of the lay of the land that a map just doesn’t do justice to.  Be it Bologna, Sydney, Berlin, Chicago or Lübeck, it is always worth the climb (or elevator ride where available!).


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A German Coastal Town on the Baltic Sea

The German coastal town of Travemünde faces the Baltic Sea in the northern part of the country.  It is where the Trave River, which runs through Lübeck, Germany, meets the sea.  It is also one of many German coastal towns on the Baltic Sea where Germans flock for fun in the sun in the summertime.

We stayed in nearby Schlutup which, though on the coast, is not itself such a beach town.  And while not a tourist destination, it offered a glimpse into more residential areas and a Cold War curiosity (read on…)  Looking to explore the more touristy coastal towns we spent half a day walking around Travemünde and also enjoyed dinner at nearby Timmendorfer Strand.

Exploring Travemünde

Travemünde first came to being as a fortress around the 12th century but the fortifications are long gone.  It is now better known as a resort town and the port hosting ferries.

After driving into town and picking a residential street not far from the waterfront to park, we walked along the street noticing the architecture of the homes and walked past a church where a wedding had just taken place.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, church
Inside of 13th century St. Laurence Church
Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, church
Inside of 13th century St. Laurence Church

From there we meandered through small and picturesque side streets until we made it to the waterfront enjoying the architecture of this Baltic Sea coastal town.

Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture
Street in Travemunde
Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture
Typical house
Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal town
Charming house
Travemunde, Germany, Baltic coast town, beach town, Baltic architecture, German coastal towns
Oldest house in Travemunde dating from the mid-16th century
Architecture detail, German architecture, Baltic coastal town, Travemunde, Germany, Deustchland
Architectural detail
Architecture detail, German architecture, Baltic coastal town, Travemunde, Germany, Deustchland
Architecture detail

Typical beach town scene in Travemünde

Travemünde’s waterfront is not atypical from other beach towns anywhere, really.  A nice path along the water allows one to go for a nice long walk.  Towards the end of the path there was a fair or festival taking place with temporary large and small tents with music and food.

Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal towns
Time to sit down and enjoy a beverage!
Travemunde waterfront, German beach town, Baltic coast town, German coastal town

We opted to walk back to the main part of the waterfront with its shops and eateries and picked one with tables out by the waterfront to enjoy a beer and watch life go by.

Being peak summer time, there were a lot of tourists in this German coastal town.  Most were Germans though I would not be surprised at Danes, Swedes or others being there given the proximity.  Ferries do leave from nearby to places as far as Helsinki, Finland so it is a very likely scenario.

Schlutup:  Memories of the Cold War in Germany

The Cold War evokes many different memories.  For many of us, the Berlin Wall is the supreme symbol of the time.  For Germans, I suppose there are many more specific things and places that bring back the memories.  The town of Schlutup, where we stayed, was just about 300 m (1,000 ft) from the former border between the two Germanies, likely close to being the northernmost point of the border, in a way.

Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town
House in Schlutup
Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town
House in Schlutup
Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town
Marina in Schlutup

It was definitely not a touristy town whether for foreigners or Germans.  But it is where would found a neat water-side apartment in a two-story building to rent for a few days.

Schlutup, Travemunde, Germany, Trave River, waterfront, Baltic coastal town
View from the house we rented towards the Trave River

But it was on the eastern edge of the town where we found a tiny reminder of the Cold War:  a local museum to the Iron Curtain and border control that existed right there while the Germanies were divided.

Grenz bei Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz
Museum was closed so photos through window had to do
Grenz bei Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz
Front of the museum
Grenz bei Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz
Trabanz and piece of the Berlin Wall
Grenz am Schlutup, Schlutup border museum, Cold War border control, DDR grenz, Bundesgrenzschutz

Off to dinner by the water in Timmendorfer Strand

The night of the lunar eclipse of July 2018, we picked Timmendorfer Strand as the place for dinner.  We actually did it not thinking about the eclipse and it would have been an ideal spot to watch it except it was overcast.

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, German coastal towns
Looking towards the restaurant

The town felt a little less commercial but perhaps it was the part of town where our restaurant was, near residential buildings vs. commercial ones.

Our restaurant, Wolkenlos, was actually located on its own pier jutting into the water.  It had windows all around and that was great though it basically grew extremely hot with the sun setting and glaring through the glass.  And no air conditioning nor open windows to help.  While the meal was good (and my dinner companions even more so!), we were sweating too much to say the meal experience was enjoyable.

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, schnitzel, German food
My awesome dinner:  Wiener schnitzel with fries and a side salad

Enjoying the sea breeze

The restaurant did have an outside deck area so as quickly as we could get our bill and pay, we moved outside.  At first standing by the railing but, as soon as a table freed up, we sat down.  And that’s when I can say I enjoyed the evening fully, sipping a beverage and feeling the sea breeze.  Perfect way to wrap up the day!

Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town
Outdoor deck at sunset
Timmendorfer Strand, sunset, Wolkenlos, Baltic beach town, sunset in Germany, German coastal town
Sunset over the beach

What to See in Lübeck, Germany – Charming Medieval Town

Lübeck is the best example of medieval architecture in northern Germany (so I read).  In this post, I hope to share with you what to see in Lübeck whether you are planning a visit or just want to check out a lesser-known destination in Germany!  I see little or nothing in blogs or social media about Lübeck.  I am grateful that friends who live in Germany knew better and I got to explore Lübeck, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Lübeck suffered during WW II but many medieval structures survived (two of the four city gates survived) or were re-constructed (like St. Mary’s Church); another thing to be grateful for.Lubeck main street, Germany, German architecture

A bit about the Hanseatic League

Before sharing what to see in Lübeck, a little background / history…  The Hanseatic League was a commerce and defense league that operated from the 14th until the 17th century in northern Europe on the coasts of the North Sea and Baltic Sea.  The town of Lübeck, in north Germany, was its capital.

The Hanseatic League was not a kingdom or a state of its own.  Rather, it was a confederation of free cities and towns along the North and Baltic Seas located in what today includes The Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, Poland, Estonia, etc.  Bottom line:  it was about commerce and banding together to protect the towns’ rights.  Smart.

Lübeck had a lot to do with the origination of the league.  Its strategic location as almost a crossroads between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, and between inland Germany to Scandinavia sealed its role as the capital of this powerful entity.  However, Lübeck had been an important settlement since around the 10th century, a few centuries before the Hanseatic League.  Having been afforded the status of a Free Imperial City of the Holy Roman Empire in 1226 (i.e., directly overseen by the Emperor) certainly elevated its prominence and likely helped it become a center of trade that would give it its leading role in the Hanseatic League since it was the most important of all the towns in the region.

Lübeck’s location

Lübeck is in the north of Germany, not quite on the coast but a tiny bit inland.  Its river, the Trave, connects to the Elbe River via a canal giving it water access to the North Sea.  But Lübeck is almost at the mouth of the Trave River where it hits the Baltic Sea by the beach town of Travemünde.  The old part of town is actually on an island in the Trave River but the greater Lübeck area covers a broader area, including the hamlet of Schlutup, where we stayed during our visit to the area.  Schlutup was right on the western side of the former West-East Germany border during the Cold War so Lübeck was not that far from the border itself.

Visiting Lübeck is easiest from Hamburg, the closest large city (check this ilivetotravel post for the top free things to do there!).  It is a short drive (about an hour or so).  A commuter train ride is also possible from Hamburg.

The town’s Gothic architecture is at the heart of what to see in Lübeck

Brick Gothic is an architectural style seen in the northern parts of Europe west and east of Lübeck in Germany and Poland.  The lack of stone in the region led to the reliance of bricks for construction.  Old town Lübeck is a great representative of this unique architectural style as are other towns like Rostock and Wismar (of which I will write more later).  Churches were built in this style but merchants’ and guilds’ buildings also built on this style.  Keep an eye out for this architecture style as you see photos in this post!

Red brick gothic architecture, german architecture, hanseatic architecture Red brick gothic architecture, german architecture, hanseatic architecture

Market Square

The market square, by city government offices and a short walk from St. Mary’s Church, is fairly small compared to other such squares in Europe but it does have a neat arcade worth checking out. Lubeck market square, Germany, Niederegger, German architectureLubeck market square, Germany, Niederegger, German architecture

Also worth checking out is the Niederegger marzipan café with some amazing specialty beverages (like fancy coffee drinks) and even more spectacular desserts, some of the them using Niederegger’s well-known marzipan.  Right behind this café outside of the market square is Niederegger’s main store offering a dizzyingly good array of goods.  It is worth walking through, even if you are not buying anything!

Burgtor Gate

The northern gate into old town Lübeck crosses a canal from the north.  It is one of the two medieval gates in town (the other being the more famous, more beautiful, and more iconic Holstentor Gate, see below…) though its roof is more recent.  We entered the old town through this gate after crossing a branch of the Trave River.

Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Burgtor (city gate)

Trave River, Burgtor, Lubeck, Germany, red brick Gothic architecture

Bridge over part of the Trave River by Burgtor

St. Mary’s Church (St. Marien Kirche)

One of the great examples of Gothic brick architecture in Europe, influencing the design of many other churches in the region, is Lübeck’s St. Mary’s Church, built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former church. It is one of the first church built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material.

For someone who has seen Gothic churches elsewhere in Europe, the style rings familiar yet something feels a bit off – it’s the red bricks!  It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic. However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942.  A broken bell from the bell tower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about…  See a picture of it and read more about St. Mary’s in this earlier write-up in this blog here.

The Holy Spirit Hospital

This building towards the north end of old town houses one of the oldest social services institution in Europe:  the Holy Spirit hospital (Heiligen Geist Hospital).  The institution was founded in the 13th century to take care of the sick and elderly.  In the early 16th century, it stopped being affiliated by the church and passed to the civilian authorities.  The front of the building has an open space, a choir, and hosts frescoes and triptychs.  It stopped having residents in the 1960s and now hosts art and craft fairs on occasion.

Holy Spirit Hospital, Lubeck, Germany Holy Spirit Hospital, Lubeck, Germany, church tryptich

St. Jacob’s Church

Right near the Holy Spirit Hospital is the Church of St Jacob‘s, the church of seafarers.  It may not be the most impressive of the churches in Lübeck, but I still liked seeing the details inside.  The church was built in the mid 14th century.  It did not suffer damage from World War II so it retains the original boxed pew and organ.  I also enjoyed the area around it as I waited for my friends to come out (I was babysitting their dog, Luna – a cute one!).

St Jacob, St Jakobi, church in Lubeck, Germany, historic, architecture in Germany. kirche LubeckSt Jacob, St Jakobi, church in Lubeck, Germany, historic, architecture in Germany. kirche Lubeck, church altarSt Jacob, St Jakobi, church in Lubeck, Germany, historic, architecture in Germany. wooden art St Jacob, St Jakobi, church in Lubeck, Germany, historic, architecture in Germany. wooden art

St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche)

This church was built in the 13th century and continued to be modified in the 15th and 16th centuries.  It lost its roof in World War II and the final renovations from that damage and temporary repairs was completed in 1987.  Its best feature, in my book, is the views from its tower.

Holstentor Gate

Lübeck’s most iconic structure represents the city to the world.  It is a beautiful building, even as it leans.  Holstentor, the western gate into the old town, is just a couple of blocks from St. Peter’s Church. Holstentor, Lubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture

Holstentor almost got demolished in the 1860s because of a movement to get rid of old fortifications around the town.  Unbelievable that locals thought this gate dating from 1464 was not worth keeping!!   It has required maintenance over time to stabilize it with the last major restorations being done in the 1930s and the 2000s.  Holstentor survived World War II which is a miracle – and, therefore, it is a must-see structure for any visitor to Germany.

And the streets of the old town with the majestic facades!

If you liked any of the above, walking around the old town is even better!  The design of the building’s facades felt so new to me, it captivated me…  Here are some images of what I so enjoyed.  Definitely top of the list of what to see in Lübeck !Lubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German architecture, blue sky over GermanyLubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German architecture, blue sky over Germany Lubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German architecture, windows, Lubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German architectureLubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German architectureLubeck, Germany, Deutschland, medieval architecture, facade, German window shutters——————————————————————————————————

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Visiting the Namsan Seoul Tower for the Best Views of Seoul

As I have written about before, when I visit a new town, I immediately look for a place from which I could get a great view.  In my recent visit to Seoul, South Korea, I did some research and very quickly realized there was one clear place I had to go to get the best views of Seoul from up high:  the Namsan Seoul Tower.Namsan seoul tower, seoul tower, best views in seoul, travel, telecom tower, blue sky

Most major cities abroad tend to have one of those imposing communications towers that stand out in any city’s skyline.  Seoul’s does it one better:  the communications tower sits atop a mountain right in the heart of the city!

The tower opened back in 1980 and boasts having had 30 millions visitors to date.  Not bad.

How to get to the Namsan Seoul Tower

The good news is that, though it sits on top of a mountain, the Namsan Seoul Tower can be reached by car, bus, cable car, or on foot.  If I had had more time, I would have turned the whole thing into a hike up.  But, having walked part of the mountain a day earlier, on the day of my visit to the tower, I decided to speed things up.  I took the cable car.

The best time for the best views of Seoul from the tower

I wanted to get up before the crowds started arriving and the tower opened at 10 AM.  A second reason for getting there as early as possible is that the sun would rise opposite the side of the tower with the best views.  That is, the stuff I wanted to photograph would face me while the sun would be behind me.  I didn’t want the sun to be up high (say, around noon) and diminish the quality of the colors of the views.

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

While this is a good photo, it is almost facing in the direction of the sun, so not as vivid

The cable car

The cable car, luckily as I did not plan this, was just two blocks from my hotel near the Myeongdong subway station.  To get to the cable car lower station, one either climbs a series of staircases (quite steep), or one takes a short tram.  However, the tram had weekly maintenance that morning so it was not an option.  So up the stairs I went!  Good workout…

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, best views of Seoul

The tram on the right and the cable car station on the left

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, Seoul from up high

A little portion of the stairs!

Myeongdong, Namsan Seoul Tower, Seoul, South Korea, travel, cityscape

Even from the stairs, there is a view

Once you get to the cable car station, just buy the ticket (you get a better deal if you buy the round-trip up front).  The cable car opens at 10 AM and I got there just a couple of minutes past that time.  The line was 10 deep and I was able to move quickly from it to the platform in little time.  The next car was full and I was one of the last ones in but I made it.

Namsan Seoul Tower, cable car station, Seoul, South Korea, travel

The cable car station

Going up the tower

The tower complex boasts “attractions” and other neat spots (the love lock handrails in the main plaza after you exit the cable car station). Its website provides a glimpse of all they offer.

Namsan Seoul Tower, love locks, Seoul, South Korea, colorful

Locks galore; other handrails were completely covered up

Namsan Seoul Tower, love locks, Seoul, South Korea, colorful

Once up at the plaza at the other end of the cable car, I went straight to the ticket office though it is a big enough space to explore and walk around.

Namsan Seoul Tower, ticket office, Seoul, travel, South Korea

Entrance to take the elevator up

There was no line to take the elevator up and it was waiting for me.  The ride was fairly quick in an enclosed (not panoramic) elevator car which was OK since the best views were about to come.  The ticket to go to the viewing platform cost 10,000 Korean Won for an adult (around US $10) so not bad at all for such a unique attraction.

The best views of Seoul from up high – finally!

Once you get up, the viewing platform is quite large, not terribly crowded at that time.  There are shops for souvenirs or candy.  There is a restaurant, a bar and restrooms in the other levels up there.  I was tempted to come at sunset and enjoy those views but my time in Seoul was limited (5 days) and I wanted to see and experience other things.  I imagine it would be really neat to go up, have a drink, and enjoy a spectacular sunset lighting up the city with some good golden colors (perfect for photos!).

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Facing NW or so

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Moving further towards the north

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Towards the Gyeongbukgung Palace in the distance (not really visible here)

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Close up shows at the base of the mountain the Blue House – the home of the President of the ROK

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

Continuing eastward, the vast green space is Jongmyo Shrine in the front and another palace in the back

One cool thing is that there was free wi-fi up there so I video-called family members to show them the view live.

As you walk around the view platform, you can look 360 at Seoul all around you.  And you can walk around to find your favorite city around the world on the glass windows so you know you are looking out in its direction.

Namsan Seoul Tower, South Korea, Seoul, great view, views over Seoul, best views of Seoul

Atlanta did not show up on the glass but D.C. is close enough!

A restroom to remember!

Ah… not to say that the best was for last but… it may have been the best surprise…  I decided to run to the restroom before leaving and went to the men’s room in the floor below the viewing platform.  I was in for a surprise indeed.  Can’t speak to the setup of the women’s restroom but get a look at this!

Seoul, South Korea, Namsan Seoul Tower, restroom up high, urinal with a view

I think the urinals would point towards North Korea…

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I would definitely give the Namsan Seoul Tower a thumbs-up in the must-see spots in the South Korean capital!  The best views of Seoul for sure.

Namsan Seoul Tower, best views of Seoul, South Korea

The shadow of the tower on the Namsan mountain

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Other “best views” spots around the world from past travels:

Pin this to your bucket list board!

telecom tower, city view, Seoul, South Korea, seeing Seoul, how best to explore Seoul

Visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in South Korea

The Korean Demilitarized Zone, or “DMZ“, has likely kept the Korean peninsula and the world at large out of war for over many decades.  From afar, and up-close, visiting the Demilitarized Zone commands respect as a danger zone where, potentially, a mis-step could trigger a lot of non-sense. 

The prickly border between North Korea (the DPRK) and South Korea (the ROK) is around 4 kms deep (about 2.5 miles; 2 km on either side of the technical border between the two countries) and 250 km long (160 miles).  We mainly visualize an area called the Joint Security Area, or “JSA”, but that is only a tiny -though highly important- part of one wants to see when visiting the DMZ with a DMZ tour.

JSA, Panmunjeon, DMZ, Korea
The famous spot in the JSA [photo credit: Henrik Ishihara]

Planning to visit the JSA in the DMZ

When I began planning my visit to South Korea, as I researched blogs like this one, I learned that it was possible to visit the DMZ and even the JSA.  I realized quickly that to get to see the “iconic” JSA, one had to book way in advance and I was perilously close to be too late. 

After a lot of digging around, I found a tour company that had capacity on one of the days I would be in South Korea.  I am sure the days and times of visiting by the public at large is very tightly managed, hence the difficulty in booking a JSA visit.

JSA, visiting the DMZ, Korea
Model of the JSA

In any case, I nabbed a spot on a DMZ tour that included visiting the JSA even if that visit is way too quick (which is what I had read; one barely gets to take a picture on the most iconic photo spot in the JSA).  Keep reading to find out what happened…

The DMZ’ JSA (acronyms R us)

Neither country has jurisdiction over the JSA, though it includes territory from both.  There are meeting rooms that cross the border where representatives of both sides can meet.  We saw earlier in 2018 the leaders of each Korea cross the border into the other country’s border. 

That momentous event took place in the JSA, which is also casually referred to as Panmunjeon, where the armistice was signed in 1953.  If I understood correctly, the United Nations Commission has been responsible for the JSA.

Up until 2018.  Due to the recent developments warming the chill between the two countries (and the U.S.), it has been decided to convert the JSA from a major military and command center to a tourist attraction (??).  In the fall of 2018, guard houses within the JSA were to be removed and the zone will become a free movement zone, meaning that people who are allowed into the JSA, technically can move freely between the two Koreas in the JSA.

And here is where my plans went awry…  The project to remove guard houses and do some other changes to the JSA were not done by the day my tour was supposed to happen so that portion of the tour was cancelled by the authorities that control visits to the area.  BIG bummer…

Visiting the DMZ – the approach with a DMZ tour

Well, for this curious traveler, seeing North Korea from across the border was a priority.  Not that it would be a big a-ha or anything but, I just had to see it!  As one travels the so-called Freedom Highway (route 77) out of Seoul along the Han River, right as one passes Gimpo on the way to Paju, one gets to get the first glimpse of North Korea.  At that point, the demarcation line (or, the border) actually runs through the water.  Not much to see. 

Except, I noted the waters were empty on what seemed at nice day.  Later I learned that those waters are a no-enter zone as a small slip by someone could create an incident.  Made sense.

Korea, DMZ, third tunnel, map of DMZ, Odusan observatory, Dora observatory
Demarcation line in black – notice the high density of roads on the South Korean side vs. the North…

As we headed to Paju, I noted the security fence just next to the highway to prevent anyone entering (or leaving) South Korean land and entering the water.  It was definitely not just a yard chain link fence!  And there were guard houses at very frequent intervals (not sure what the distance between them was).  They looked empty but the tour guide indicated that at 8 AM the guards leave them. 

In essence, they are watching the edge of the water at night only.  The waterway soon fully becomes South Korean territory and we crossed it.

security fence in the DMZ, guardhouse, visiting the DMZ, Im Jim River,
Guardhouse along the Freedom Highway

We were not yet in the DMZ though.  That was next in our DMZ tour.

Entering the DMZ at Imjingak Park

To enter the DMZ, visitors need to switch to buses that are allowed to operate in the DMZ at Imjingak‘s “tourist site.”  We went to an area with an observatory (elevated point from which to view North Korea), a coffee shop, a souvenir store, and a large parking lot area for buses to park to drop off and pick up visitors. 

And a small amusement park/carnival which felt out of place given the serious business that gives rise to needing a DMZ…  Weird.  However, this is a bit of a mis-read of the place.  This park was created to console families that were divided when the border was closed, as a place to get as close as possible to their North Korean families and homeland.

Imjingak, DMZ, South Korea, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
You can see a bit of the carnival area at Imjingak… (?!)
Bridge of Freedom, DMZ, South Korea, Imjingak
Bridge of Freedom

First viewing point:  Dora Observatory

After entering the DMZ, we headed to the Dora Observatory on Dorasan (Mt. Dora).  It was a short uphill walk to get to the observatory from which we could then look through a high platform/plaza towards North Korea.  The free standing “binoculars” were very helpful to get a better view of North Korea.

Dora Observatory, DMZ, Korea, visiting the DMZ, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
The viewing platform

One can see one of the famous propaganda villages built by North Korea to ‘impress’ the southerners – it was a fake village.  It is supposedly the closest a visitor to the DMZ gets to North Korea.  This stop is close to both the third tunnel and the Dorasan ghost train station (keep reading below…).

DMZ, guardhouse, South Korea, visiting the DMZ
Note the guardhouses in the DMZ (in the red circle)

From this observatory, one can see the North Korean town of Kaesong, the largest community visible to me during me DMZ visit.

Kaesong, DPRK, North Korea, visiting the DMZ, curiosity
Kaesong, DPRK in the distance

3rd tunnel under the demarcation line

North Korea secretly built tunnels that would allow it to “pump” 30,000 soldiers per hour into South Korean territory.  Everyone believes it was to support an invasion of South Korea at some point.  The tunnels started getting discovered thanks to a northern defector who informed the south in 1974 that the DPRK was building this tunnel but uncertain of the precise location. 

So the south buried 107 PVC pipes into the ground full of water until one of them pointed the spot under which there was a portion of the tunnel in 1978.  The South Koreans ended up discovering 4 tunnels (are there more??) over the decades.

tunnel, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, North Korea, infiltration tunnel, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
Plaza at the 3rd infiltration tunnel

In my tour, we visited the third tunnel, very close to the Dora Observatory. by using an access tunnel built by the south to get to the North Korean tunnel (which is 2 m wide by 2 m tall).  The access tunnel is a little wider than the North Korean tunnel though often shorter, hence why everyone is given a hard hat to wear upon entering. 

The end point on the North Korean tunnel that a visitor gets to is a wall that blocks any potential use of the tunnel by the North to enter South Korea (there are two further walls behind the one facing the visitor).  To get to the end point, the visitor descends about 300 m.  It is steep and long.

And the way back is all uphill – no elevator down here!  This walk down takes the visitor to 73 m (240 ft) under the surface.  At this end point, the visitor is within 170 m of the demarcation line above ground – the closest the visitor gets to the border between the two Koreas.

Displays outside the tunnel help one learn more about the tunnels but most tours rush one through everything so snapping a quick few pictures of the explanatory displays is key so, at least, one can read about it later.

tunnel, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, North Korea, infiltration tunnel
3rd infiltration tunnel

I’d give the tunnel a thumbs-up in terms of something that really conveys how serious the business around here was, even if now it is getting crowded by tour buses.

Train station to nowhere (yet)

The Dorasan train station, right outside of the DMZ on the South Korean side, is a highly clean and modern station recently built to eventually reconnect by train the south to the north (as it used to be a long time ago).

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail, dmz tour, demilitarized zone
Dorasan train station

At some point around 2007-8, using the existing rail line that goes now by this stations, a train ran to take raw materials from the south to a factory set up in the North Korean town of Kaesong as a form of collaboration between the two Koreas.  That ended as relations went south (pardon the pun). 

To run the factory, though, South Korea also had to transmit electricity over power lines built for the purpose.  One actually can tell where the demarcation line (otherwise invisible/unmarked) runs by noticing when the power towers change colors:  the painted towers are in South Korea, the unpainted ones in North Korea.

In any case, the Dorasan train station was built as a sign of the hope that the two Koreas will re-unify.  The hope would be to run the first train service from Seoul to Pyongyang, whenever the political situation allows.

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail, ilivetotravel
Nope, not going there!

While it seems to be mostly a curiosity to visitors and a “why bother visit”, it seems to go beyond that to South Koreans and, for that, it is worth seeing it to understand it.  The South Korean tour guide spoke wishfully of the day when a South Korean could travel from Seoul to Paris by train, a la Trans-Siberian train (or, connecting to it). 

They seem to dream of being connected by land to the rest of the world.  That, sadly, requires going through North Korea yet the southerners are not shy about their hopes as this map at the Dorasan train station shows!

Dorasan train station, visiting the DMZ, South Korea, trans-Asia rail
Map shows linking to the Trans-Siberian rail through Russia

Final observatory – the Odusan Observatory

Our final stop was offered a good view of North Korea, at this point, across the Im Jin River, leading to the West Sea and connecting also to the Han River (which cuts Seoul in half further south).  It was a large, multi-story, and modern facility that felt empty except for us tourists meandering about.  They must host events or something.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Odusan Observatory main entrance

In any case, the viewing platform is large and has free, standing binocular stations, as did the Dora Observatory.  Using a camera on the binoculars allowed capturing some of the details of the North Korean villages, including spotting the mandatory King Il-Sum Memorial every North Korean village must have.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Close-up of the North Korean side
Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Spot the tall white column: that’s the memorial to the dictator who ruled the DPRK until the 1990s

A map shows what one is looking at on the North Korean side.

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Map

The view from this observatory is more beautiful due to the water.  Also, because it also offers an interesting view when one looks the opposite way, towards Seoul.  High thumbs up for this site!

Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
Looking towards North Korea across the Im Jin River as it heads out to sea
Odusan Observatory, visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone
View south from the DMZ (what you see here is not Seoul)

And so ends my visit to the demilitarized zone.  Visiting the DMZ is doable on one’s own but I assume with planning to understand the ins and outs of getting there, how to move around in the area outside of the DMZ, and booking spaces in the DMZ-managed buses.  I certainly preferred booking a DMZ tour because it just made things easier. 

In any case, it was incredible to see this symbol of the power plays between the big powers since the days following the end of World War II.  And a sensitive spot on Earth that could have (and still could, I suppose) trigger a nasty war.  I hope not as much for re-unification but for freedom for the North Koreans…


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last of the Cold War , visiting the DMZ, North Korea, South Korea, Korean peninsula, Visiting the Demilitarized Zone

Getting from Incheon Airport into Seoul

Getting to Seoul from Incheon International Airport is quite easy.  The airport is extremely modern, clean and well-signed.  Very important for me as a new visitor into the city as I knew, based on my prior research, that I would find my way to my desired transportation method without an issue.  Besides traditional services like private cars, buses or taxis, train service into the city is available.  Going from Incheon to Seoul should not be anything you worry about when planning your visit to the capital of South Korea!

Incheon, Seoul airport, modern architecture, Korea airport

Very modern architecture

How to decide which way to go from Incheon to Seoul Station?

Incheon Airport is an hour away or so (by train) from Seoul’s city center (Seoul Station) so a taxi ride may be more than folks may want to pay for if they are traveling without lots of luggage. (There is a luggage service if you are flying with certain airlines to help with that if you take the train; read more about it here).  Besides the extra cost of vehicle service, you would suffer, er, experience big city traffic, which would also be a concern with bus service.  So, for me, nothing beat the train service with its generally uninterrupted movement towards the destination!

Is train service available from Incheon to Seoul?

Yes, indeed!  Now, there are two train types available:  the AREX express train or the AREX commuter line “all-stop” train.  Let’s look at both options:
  • Option 1:  The AREX all-stop train is cheaper (about half of the cost of the AREX express train).  But it does not have dedicated storage space for luggage so you would have to be managing your luggage as people enter and exit the train car at the stops.  This train option takes longer due to the stops the train will make between the airport and the Seoul Station (10-20 mins longer depending on which terminal you are landing/departing from at Incheon).  However, if your destination is close to one of those stops, then the all-stop may make good sense.
  • Option 2:  If you are heading into the city proper (as I was), you may want to use the AREX express train which connects the airport to Seoul Station in the heart of the city without any stops outside of the two airport terminals.  When you buy a ticket (9,500 Korean Won as of this writing, about $9.50US;), it automatically assigns you to a train car and a seat.  I am not sure if I could have picked my seat but was not paying attention both times I bought a ticket.  The train has wi-fi for free and the seats recline, and even have footrests (the all-stop train is just a regular subway-like train).

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Express train seats

How to use the AREX express train service

Once you clear immigration and customs, you will be on the lookout for “Airport Railroad” signage.  This will take you to the area with both ticket vending machines or a staffed kiosk.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at airport makes the direction stand out

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk

AREX ticket kiosk

At the airport, there was plenty of help and it was all very easy to navigate.  On the reverse, Seoul Station is quite big and the path to the AREX tracks varies depending on whether you take a subway line in or you walk into Seoul Station.   More on this part later.

Once you get to the train area, they have done a good job of signing which way to the express train and which way to the all-stop train.  The former is all signed in orange, and the latter all signed in blue.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

The orange turnstiles are for the AREX express train

Using the AREX express train vending machines

After you have gone to the AREX express train area, you will see the orange vending machines or the staffed kiosk.  The machines were super intuitive to use and took credit card or cash.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

AREX express train vending machine

When you first approach it and see its touchscreen, you will see it all in Korean except, in a row of buttons, one that says “English.”  That was the only European language available as far as I could tell.  Once you press it, follow the menus.  On the way into the city, there is no option.  You are headed to Seoul Station.  On the way into the airport, you will need to know from which of the two terminals your flight is departing from:  Terminal 1 or 2.  You will specify that, how many tickets and the time of the train you want to take.

You then proceed to pay and the machine will issue two items:  one is your train time and seat assignment; the other is the single journey card you will use to get through the automatic gates in and out the train track area (so only ticketed passengers get to access the platform).

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk

Seat ticket and single journey card coming out of the machine

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport, AREX ticket kiosk, AREX ticket

The yellow (or orange) single journey ticket and the seat assignment receipt

There is no security or anything else.  It will just take however long the elevator wait and ride down take.  There are clear signs indicating where each train car will be so you can pre-position yourself by your car if the train is not already there.

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Clear signage on where to find the right train car at Terminal 2

Once you get into the train car, put away your luggage on the racks (there is overhead space above the seats for carry-on sized items) and lay back for the next 45 mins or so – you are headed to Seoul! (Or the airport!)

Getting stuck in Seoul Station on the way to the airport

As I alluded to earlier, I had a glitch on the way to the airport before I even got to the AREX express train.  I got “stuck” heading into AREX train area from the subway’s Line 4 at Seoul Station.  But I will say Seoul Station was well-signed to get me from the regular subway to the AREX departure area!

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signs at Seoul Station directing passengers to the AREX train

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at Seoul Station even included floor signs (this one for the all-stop train)!

AREX, Seoul airport, Incheon airport

Signage at Seoul Station guides you to the right floor for buying tickets

In any case, my single journey card for the subway was not intended to allow me to enter the AREX train area just to exit the subway proper.  I was not aware of that so I only had that one card.  Why is this necessary is beyond me – it adds confusion to visitors.

I could not access the area where you buy the AREX tickets NOR to buy a new single journey card to let me through.  I was at a loss of what to do.  I spotted a man walking with an AREX ID card and asked for help – he used his ID card to let me in and I proceeded to buy the ticket.  He got a nice “kumapsunida” from me and a smile.

Incheon, Seoul airport, modern architecture, Korean AIr

Safe travels!


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The Jewel of Lübeck: Church of St. Mary’s

Visiting the former Hanseatic League‘s capital, Lübeck in north Germany, is a feast for the eyes for the amazing architecture the city has.  The city’s important rose in prominence before the Hanseatic League came into being.  A town had been founded there in the early 12th century after suffering serious damage in an invasion.  One of the buildings constructed in that era was the jewel of Lübeck: the Church of St. Mary (Marienkirche).

By Thomas Möller Roggenhorst – originally uploaded to de.wikipedia by author on 24. Sep 2004, self made by author, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=110347

Gothic brick architecture

The Church of St. Mary is one of the prime examples of Gothic brick architecture in northern Europe.  St. Mary’s was built between 1260 and 1350 on the site of a former wooden church built about a hundred years earlier.  It influenced many other churches in the region, some number 70 other churches that took their inspiration in Germany and Poland from St. Mary’s.Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Side entrance to the church is adjacent to a really cool building in the background

The architecture of St. Mary’s is very unique because it is one of the first churches built on the French Gothic style but with red bricks as the main construction material.  It is really cool to see this twist on Gothic!  It also possesses one of the highest vaults from the Gothic period.

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Altar

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture, church of st. mary

WWII damages the Church of St. Mary…

However, it is important to note that what we see today is a reconstruction as WW II saw the ancient church structure destroyed in 1942.  A broken bell from the belltower is displayed inside the church as a sad but lasting remembrance of the ravages war can bring about…

Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture

Broken bell, victim of WWIW

St. Mary’s is an active church of the Evangelical Lutheran branch.  I happened to walk in a couple of minutes before the brief noon service.  The attendants at the door (it is free entrance) asked my if I wanted to come later or if I was planning to sit through the service.  I had no idea how long it would be but I said yes to the latter.  It was a brief psalm reading and a short sermon.  A local woman was trying to chide me when I decided to move pews because, as she saw my camera hanging from me, she thought I was touristing during the service.  I was about to have a bad thought but remembered where I was, smiled, and moved on to the pew I wanted to sit at…Lubeck, Germany, Marienkirche, St. Mary's Church, Hanseatic League, brick Gothic architecture, church of st. mary

Make your way to Lübeck if you are visiting nearby Hamburg (an hour away or so).  It is a phenomenal town and then check out the Church of St. Mary.

Images of Hamburg: A City in Photos

Having written some posts on what to see in Hamburg, I wanted to share some images of Hamburg that did not make it to those posts.  Some are of Hamburg’s architecture or its setting, and some are a little more random.  Hope you enjoy these images and that they make you want to explore this former Hanseatic League city!

The High Views in Hamburg

As you may have read in posts about Chicago, Sydney or my top 8 climbs in Europe, I like going high (not the same as “getting high”!) to soak in the vastness of a place and get my bearings.  Well, Hamburg is no exception.  I wrote about St. Nicholas Church where I got to see the city from up high.  But there are more photos to share that I included in that post…

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

Looking towards the entrance to the old Elbe tunnel

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

Looking down to Speicherstadt and Hafencity

views of hamburg, seeing hamburg from above, hamburgo, germany

The Architecture in Hamburg

Like many city, really, Hamburg has great architecture.  It is an amalgamation of styles from pre-World War II that survived to modern and post-modern and just frigging funky.  You can see some more of these styles in my skyline photos in the Elbe Tunnel post, or in my unofficial guide to Hamburg covering places like Speicherstadt, Blankenese‘s stair district, the Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie), and the Chilehaus.  But here are some other photos of the architecture in Hamburg that I really liked.

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Neat tile work and handrail

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany, statues in Hamburg

Lots of these statues atop doorways or along outer walls

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Staircase at the Chilehaus

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Along Speicherstad

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Another cool building

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

Not sure what style this is but it looks very cool

architecture, hamburg, arquitectura hamburgo, brick, neat tilework, staircases in Germany

The Eclectic in Hamburg

Hamburg, like any big city, will have its quirky quarters and scenes.  Here are some images of Hamburg to help you visualize the eclectic side of Hamburg!

motorcycle, motorrad DDR, hamburg street scene, travel

Old school DDR

hamburg, street scene, graffiti germany hamburg, street scene, graffiti germany

hamburg architecture, architektur, arquitectura, germany, travel

The building must be melting with the heat wave…

curb art, Hamburg street scene, bottle cap art, travel

Bottle caps as part of the curb

The Canals of Hamburg

Hamburg is a little like the Venice of northern Europe.  The city center area is ground zero for the canals.  I read somewhere that it boasts more bridges inside its city limits than any other city.  Also, it is supposed to have more canals than Amsterdam or Venice – I find that hard to believe but not because I have any data or have studied the topic 🙂  So I will share a couple of images about the canals.

Hamburg canals, venice of the north, hamburg, hamburgo, germany, architecture, Hamburg canals at night, images of Hamburgimages of Hamburg, Hamburg canals, venice of the north, hamburg, hamburgo, germany, architecture images of Hamburg. Hamburg canals, venice of the north, hamburg, hamburgo, germany, architectureimages of Hamburg, Hamburg canals, venice of the north, hamburg, hamburgo, germany, architecture Hamburg canals, venice of the north, hamburg, hamburgo, germany, architecture, locks on bridge


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12 Things to Do in Hamburg for Free

Hamburg may not be known as the tourism mecca that Paris, London, Rome or others are.  But it is a fascinating city to explore for its history, architecture, and culture.  It was amazing when I looked back and realized how many things one can do for free in Hamburg to explore and joy this German city.  So I decided to share twelve things to do in Hamburg for free  There are more, for sure.  Just consider this an unofficial guide to Hamburg and feel free to add via the comments below other suggestions you have (even if they are not free!).

The recommendations start at the Elbphilarmonie (Concert Hall), then move to the heart of the city and then move sort of out and westward so you can plan a route to explore following this sequence.  I indicate U- or S-Ban stations near each spot when appropriate to help you plan the things to do in Hamburg.

1.  Concert Hall (Elbphilarmonie)

The Elbphilarmonie is the magnificent and very modern concert hall built on top of a warehouse/residential structure dating from the 1960s in the Speicherstadt district of old Hamburg.  It cost nearly a billion dollars to construct and many years delay, finally opening in January 2017.  One wonders what that money could have done, say, to improve lives of refugees, improve social services or the like, but the building is impressive, like it or not.

The concert hall does not sit on top of the older building:  it has its own foundations.  Pretty darn good engineering trick!  There are two cool ways to explore the concert hall:  touring it or going to the viewing  level.

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The concert hall is just something to behold!

The tour lasts about an hour and costs 15 euros as of this writing.  It requires a lot of physical activity.  Going to the “Plaza” or viewing level is actually free and offers great views of the city.  However, there is limited capacity at that level so, if you want to guarantee your access, you can get a ticket in advance by paying a nominal fee (2 euros).  [U-Bahn station:  Baumwall]

2.  Speicherstadt

Close to the Chilehaus is the Speicherstadt district.  This district was the warehouse district for decades.  It was built in the late 1800s and seems to have survived WW II bombings so enough buildings either were OK or could be repaired (others were lost).  The warehouses served a unique purpose in this important German port back when it was a customs-free zone.  The rows of warehouses run long along canals and have access both from the water and the streets.  It is curious to note that they are built on a foundation that uses timber poles to anchor them.Speicherstadt , Hamburg, Hamburg building, UNESCO heritage, Hamburgo, Germany, Alemania, turismo, arquictectura Speicherstadt , Hamburg, Hamburg building, UNESCO heritage, Hamburgo, Germany, Alemania, turismo, arquictectura

It is also neat to see how the whole district has been re-vitalized, I presume with new construction where the old buildings were destroyed in the war.  As usual, modern German architecture is really fun to explore – they are much more creative than architects back home!  [U-Bahn station:  Baumwall]

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3.  St. Nicholas Church

I wrote about this church, in the heart of Hamburg, in an earlier post.  It is a simple yet powerful reminder of the craziness of dictatorship and war.  It is almost park-like but the message is clear.  Of the list of things to do in Hamburg, this is for sure the most thought-provoking.  In addition, St. Nicholas Church’s bell tower offers a phenomenal vantage point of the city (you do have to pay for that view…).  [U-Bahn stations:  Rathaus or Rödingsmarkt]

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Tower from the front (L) and from what would have been the inside (R)

4.  Chilehaus

If you love interesting architecture, stuff you don’t normally see, the Chilehaus (Chile House) building, with its massive scale, is the right sight for you.  The building, in the Kontorhaus district of Hamburg, feels heavy with all those dark bricks but lightened by the small brick “features” that adorn in.  I read somewhere that its design lends it lightness but I did not feel that lightness as an amateur.

In any case, the building dates from the 1920s and, like many things around this town, finds a way to evoke the maritime “centeredness” of the city, in this case, the shape of a ship.  I had to look up why is it called the “Chile House” and learned that the shipping magnate who funded its construction made a lot of his money from trading in saltpeter from Chile.

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Large wavy outer wall of the Chilehaus

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Details of the exterior wall of the Chilehaus

When you are done checking the building out (and peek inside to the see old style staircases), walk some more around the area to see other old buildings.  This link takes you to a live webcam offering almost 360 degree view around the Chilehaus.  And I may add that it is across the street from the Chocolate Museum…  [U-Bahn station:  Meßberg]

5.  Rathaus (City Hall)

The German word “Rathaus” is the word for “city hall.”  I just love that word for a building where any politician sits.  But I digress.  Hamburg’s city hall is a beautiful structure close to water and the canal area of Hamburg and it houses both the First Mayor and the Parliament of the state of Hamburg.  It is beautiful day or night.

Hamburg’s Rathaus was built in the late 19th century to replace the prior one that burned over 40 years before.  It seems the building survived WW II well…

There are guided tours on offer during weekdays.  I did not take the tour but I imagine it is a beautiful building inside… [U-Bahn station:  Rathaus]

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Rathaus as seen from St. Nicholas Church’s belltower

6.  Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

This area by the water, right near the Rathaus and the Neustadt fancy shopping district, offers a unique opportunity to feel you are somewhere like Nice enjoying a stroll, a lunch, or a beverage right by the water.  In Hamburg, the water normally means the Elbe River but this lagoon-like body of water (the Binnenalster), which connects by canals to the river, has a totally different feel.  You can watch the Alsterfontane, which reminded me of a similar fountain in Lake Geneva, while sitting at one of the cafés or restaurants in the area before you go to the nearby Kunsthalle Museum or the fancy stores in the Neustadt district!  [U-Bahn station:  Jungfernstieg]

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Alsterfontane and Binnenalster

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Enjoying a drink and a bite by the water

7.  Planten un Blomen

Wandering a little aimlessly away from Binnenalster, we ran into the park named Planten un Blomen which does not sound German but Dutch, perhaps.  It is located near the Alster and the Congress Center, forming a green belt surrounding part of the core of the city.  We actually happened upon it by accident.  It was nice to stroll the trails along the water features of the park and see a good number of locals enjoying the place.  If you need a break from walking around and want to just find a park that feels remote from “urbanity,” this would be a great spot!  [U-Bahn station:  Stephansplatz]Planten un Blomen park, park in Hamburg, Germany, things to do in hamburg Park in Hamburg, Planten un Blomen

8.  Old Elbe Tunnel

Now, the route goes back to the riverside…  The entrance to this old tunnel under the Elbe River is just west of the city center and down the hill from the infamous St. Pauli district (another free thing to do is walk around there…).

This neat engineering marvel (at least back when it was built) is not only worth going through but, on the other side, one is rewarded with a good view of the modest Hamburg skyline.  It is free and it is quite easy to do.  For more about this experience, check out this post in this blog!  [S-Bahn station:  Landungsbrücken]

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Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

9.  Fischmarkt

Continue moving westward along the Elbe River (away from the city center; a long walk with not a lot to look at), you will eventually get to Hamburg’s famous fish market (more or less below the Altona district).  The recommended thing to do is be there at the crack of dawn on a Sunday (it opens at 5 AM and closes by 9:30 AM) and see everything for sale (not just fish!).fischmarkt, hamburg fish market, germany, mercado, hamburgo, turismo, travel

Unfortunately, I was not in Hamburg on a Sunday so I can’t serve as a witness to the event.  However, I did make it over there.  I really liked the main building.  Its roof had an Eiffel-like feel to it and the structure inside (I could not go it but peeked) and outside reminded be of the Central Market (Mercado Central) in Santiago, Chile.  Next time I come to Hamburg, I WILL be there on a Sunday!

10.  St. Pauli Street Art

The St. Pauli district is known for one thing: the St. Pauli Girl beer!  Well, that may be the case in North America but it is known for being a rather raunchy place.  I will let others talk about that part of the district’s “appeal” but I liked how eclectic it fell and no better example of that than the diverse and colorful street art (I will leave the raunchy ones out…).  So among the things to do in Hamburg on this list, this may be the funnest! [U-Bahn stations:  Feldstraße or St. Pauli]Hamburg, street art, St. Pauli, arte, graffiti, Germany Hamburg, street art, St. Pauli, arte, graffiti, Germany Hamburg, street art, St. Pauli, arte, graffiti, Germany, things to do in hamburg

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My favorite: the octopus wrapped around Hamburg!

11.  Ottensen / Altona

Head up from the fish market to explore these two sections of town, Ottensen and Altona, just west of the heart of the city.  They are very livable neighborhoods with neat modern and older buildings, pedestrian shopping areas, parks, shops, and some funky spots.  Take the S-Bahn over and spent a couple of hours aimlessly walking these neighborhoods!  [S-Bahn station:  Hamburg-Altona station]

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Altona’s Rathaus

12.  Blankenese Treppenviertel – the Stair District

Off-the-beaten path in Hamburg, and further west than Ottensen and Altona, is a district to its west named Blankenese.  As I shared in this earlier post I wrote about this district, it was an area where ship owners lived back in the day.  The district is beautiful with its many stairs to walk to explore the homes of these shipowners.  Some of these stairs lead down to the edge of the river Elbe.  It is the last in this list of the things to do in Hamburg, but not least!

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Nice path’s along the stair district – no paths for cars!

Hope this list of things to do in Hamburg helps you plan your visit there – or encourage to go there if you were not considering it!

Do you have other suggestions, be them free or at a cost??  Share via a comment!


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The Best Views of Hamburg via the Old Elbe Tunnel

Hamburg is an impressive city in big ways and small ways.  And in deep ways.  Enter stage: the Old Elbe Tunnel (Alter Elbtunnel, as it is called in German) which, odd as it may sound, offers the best views of Hamburg !  Read on…Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

History of the Old Elbe Tunnel

Hamburg is located by the Elbe River, an important artery for transportation of imports/exports into and out of Germany.   Back in the early 20th century, there was a need to connect both sides of the river to facilitate local travel.  So, they (whoever that’d be) decided to build a tunnel 80ft (24m) beneath the surface and 1,400ft (426m) in length in what was an engineering marvel at the time:  the Elbe Tunnel.

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Beautiful mosaics (tile work) at the entrance to the tunnel on the city side

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Marker at the middle of the tunnel crossing

The Old Elbe Tunnel opened in September 1911 when, as it was new, was not called the “old” Elb Tunnel but rather the St. Pauli Elbe Tunnel (named so as it abuts the “famous” St. Pauli neighborhood of Hamburg).

How does this tunnel work?

While there are many bridges and tunnels connecting both sides today, the Old Elbe Tunnel remains active for local travel and tourists alike.  Four large elevators on either side of the tunnel bring up/down vehicles (cars, bikes) and people (locals, tourists) to go through the tunnel.  Oh, and it is actually two parallel tunnels…

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Two elevators side by side

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Another view of the car/bike/pedestrian elevator

It is a neat little experience for visitors for many reasons – an a free one (for pedestrians and bikes; 2 euros for cars)!  You can enter the tunnel and either walk down a long staircase or go down the elevator.

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Either down the steps (L) or the elevator (R)

I actually recommend going down the stairs (going up would be harder) so you can admire the interior of the structure and see the elevators from a distance.  Then go up in the elevator so you can experience that.

Once in the bottom, you will see one lane for vehicles and two one-directional sidewalks.  Cars will only come in one direction since it is just one lane.  And then pedestrians walk on the appropriate sidewalk depending on which direction you are walking.  The tunnel is about 20ft wide (6m).  As you walk, you can see some of the terracotta decorative tiles with maritime themes along the walls.

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Bikes cannot be ridden if you are going against vehicular traffic

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel

Some of the glazed tiles gracing the walls of the Elbe Tunnel

Some of the best views of Hamburg

The Old Elbe Tunnel comes out across the Elbe River at Steinwerder.  I was not aware exactly of whether there was a view point organized for the curious (like me) or whether I just had to walk around to find a good spot.  I made a right out of the building and followed its outer wall towards the back, assuming I was headed in the right direction.  Sure enough, there was a nice viewing platform after a short walk giving one a full view of the amazing city that is Hamburg.  I am glad I went after having explore the city some already as I was able to identify landmarks on the opposite side.  If you go, I would suggest doing the same (explore Hamburg first and then cross the river to check out the skyline).

From west to east, here is the skyline of Hamburg from Steinwerder.  Enjoy!

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Looking towards Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market)

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel, best views of Hamburg

Looking towards the St. Pauli district & the Elbe tunnel entrance

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel, best views of Hamburg

Looking towards the massive statue to Bismarck and St. Michael’s Church

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel, best views of Hamburg

St. Nicholas Church (now a memorial I wrote about in another post) in the middle

Hamburg, Old Elb Tunnel, Elbtunnel, Elbe River, Germany travel, best views of Hamburg

The Concert Hall on the right

While the view from this side of the Elbe River is from down low and there are other places to get great views from up high (like St. Nicholas Church of which I wrote about), to me, these were the best views of Hamburg !

At the end of my checking out the skyline and taking photos, I made my way back to the Old Elbe Tunnel entrance on this side and proceeded to walk back through the tunnel (which, by the way, is much cooler temperature-wise than the surface so beware) to get back to Hamburg.  Oh, and I took the elevator up on the other side 🙂


More off-the-beaten path Hamburg:


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