Raul - ilivetotravel's travel log

The Historic Jewish District of Prague

2 December 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Before my first visit to Prague earlier this year, I had heard a lot about the beauty of the town. Everyone falls in love with Prague. Both banks of the Vltava River are quite picturesque and enjoyable to explore. However, not only until I had begun to research my visit there that I learned about its Jewish Quarter. So, on my first day in Prague, I set out to find it so I could learn more about what happened to the Jewish inhabitants of the city in World War II and pay respect to their memory as I did so…

As one may expect, the Jewish Quarter is in the heart of Old Town Prague on the eastern banks of the river, just south of where it makes an almost 90 degree easterly turn.

History preserved in Prague

The quarter’s history stems from when Jews living in the area were ‘asked’ to move to this area as a way to concentrate them into one quarter. Over the decades and centuries, more Jews arrived and moved into the quarter.

What is fascinating is that the district has survived (for the most part) all these centuries. From what I read, Adolf Hitler on purpose did not destroy the district to serve as a museum to what he thought would be a forgotten people. Wrong. But, because it was not destroyed, the streets and buildings remain in helping the world remember the vast tragedy inflicted upon Jews across Europe.

The general area of the Jewish Quarter constitutes the Jewish Museum in Prague. In other words, the museum is not a building with art or artifacts in it. The Jewish Museum in Prague is all the synagogues, other structures, the cemetery, and contents and exhibits. Worth spending half a day or more to see it all.

Here are some of the places you may want to visit and spend time in during your visit to the Jewish Museum in Prague.

The Old-New Synagogue

The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová Synagoga) is Europe’s oldest active synagogue. It is located across the Jewish Museum and the High Synagogue. Built in the 13th century, it was known as the New Synagogue. Later, many other synagogues were built and perhaps that led to its being called “Old-New”. Entrance is not included in the Jewish Museum entrance though many other places are.

Old-New Synagogue in Prague, Czechia — As seen from the street

The Klausen Synagogue and Ceremonial Hall

The Klausen Synagogue (Klausová Synagoga), Prague’s largest, sits right by the Old Jewish Cemetery of Prague. It was reconstructed in Baroque style around the 1880s on the site of other historic Jewish buildings. Its Ceremonial Hall‘s walls abut the cemetery itself. Both are included in the Jewish Museum entrance and are definitely worthy of visiting. The synagogue has many interesting displays of important artifacts that are definitely worth walking slowly for.

The Ceremonial Hall is quite small and no longer serves its original purpose to honor the deceased; it just houses small exhibits. It is in Romanesque style and was built in the early 20th century to replace an older building.

The Ceremonial Hall in Prague's Jewish Museum as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery — The Ceremonial Hall as seen from the Old Jewish Cemetery

The Maisel Synagogue

While I did not visit this synagogue, it sounds like an important one to visit. It dates from the 16th century and it is named from the businessman who helped get it built. During WW II, it stored important items of Jewish property. It required a good bit of renovations over the last few decades to be able to keep it open to the public for different exhibits.

Old Jewish Cemetery

The Old Jewish Cemetery, with thousands of tombs, is one of the most poignant spots in the Jewish Museum. It is not that the people buried there died in during the Nazi regime; most date from between the 15th and 18th century. It is simply, to me, how crowded in all these tombs are combined with the tilting tombstones and the encroached space containing them. And that all this survived WW II and Communism. Almost mind-boggling.

The crowded tombs though are not just about how many tombs were fit in a given area. There are in some places up to 12 layers of tombs. That is, as the place filled up, new layers of soil were added so more people could be buried there. Tombstones were moved up as original tombs were buried even further down. Hence why the tombstones are so close together: that means there are multiple tombs in a given vertical dimension. Truly mind-boggling…

The Spanish Synagogue

This ornate synagogue feels different than the others. Its entrance feels “industrial” for someone used to entering places of worship through a front door. But, once you enter the sanctuary (if that’s a proper term for a Jewish synagogue), you forget about that. Its walls are of dark colors with golden patterns decorating them.

Right outside is the statue of Kafka – an interesting tiny sideshow in such a somber area of town.

The Pinkas Synagogue

The Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) is one of the most moving of all of the sites I visited by a good bit. We approached the ticket office not yet fully knowing what to expect. As we proceeded indoors, we saw the walls inscribed with the names of all the no-longer nameless victims of the brutality of Nazism. Several rooms’ worth of walls inscribed so they are etched in history in a more proper way… It was moving to walk through this modest synagogue to serve witness to the lives so brutally extinguished. Equally moving was seeing the room with drawings made by children in the camps and then to walk outside and read the panels that detail the story of Terezin, a concentration camp north of Prague. Terrible but important history to spend time reading/understanding…

Many reminders of the human lives cut short by evil…

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Traveling is a rewarding experience mainly to all the marvelous sights one gets to enjoy. But, sometimes, it is not about that at all. It is about the somber lessons history holds about the things we should never forget…

Filed Under: Czech Republic, Europe, Travel Journal Tagged With: Jewish Museum, Jewish Quarter, old synagogue, Praga, Prague, travel to the Czech Republic, visita a Praga

Great Drive Series – St. Ignatius to St. Regis, Montana

11 November 2019 by Raul 3 Comments

While exploring northwest Montana with a friend this past September, we tried to chart different routes as we covered a loop over a 4-day visit to the area. We started in and finished in Spokane but wanted to minimize taking the same route twice. We succeeded in that effort save for the stretch on the interstate between Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and Spokane, Washington. After leaving Bigfork by Flathead Lake, we drove south via Polson to the town of St. Ignatius on Route 93. We had some options to get back towards Coeur d’Alene and we choose a back route to minimize time on I-90. This route would take us from St. Ignatius to St. Regis first on Route 200 and then on Route 135. It was a great choice!

The approach to the town of St. Ignatius was impressive!

St. Ignatius, Montana

St. Ignatius was a mission initially established around the mid-19th century in the Flathead Indian Reservation in this part of Montana (the original log cabin still stands). The current Catholic church dates from the 1890s and is quite impressive in this town of less than a 1,000 residents or so.

House in St. Ignatius

The church was undergoing renovations when I went and we got to meet the pastor who was assigned a few years ago to oversee the restoration efforts. He greeted visitors on the day I went and explained the efforts right up until a family arrived for a baptism when he put on the right gear and proceeded to welcome a little one into the faith.

The Road to St. Regis

After leaving St. Ignatius with its beautiful reminder of times past, of faith, and of those who served selflessly the latter in the former, we got on the road to St. Regis. It was a beautiful road with many amazing landscapes and photo opportunities that I share here so you can have a glimpse of the beauty of this not-often-visited part of our country. I leave you with those images and wish to return!

Along the Flathead River

Montana. driving across Montana, road trips in the U.S.

Along the Clark Fork River

Scenic drive in Montana from St. Ignatius to St. Regis

Filed Under: Great Drives, Montana, Travel Journal, US & Canada Tagged With: great drive series, mission in St. Ignatius, Montana. Flathead Reservation, road trips in Montana, St. Ignatius Catholic Church

3 Places to See in the Remote Corners of Idaho and Montana

22 October 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

Up in the panhandle of Idaho and the northwest corner of Montana, there is some spectacular, largely unspoiled scenery. I imagine not many get to see these lands as people focus on Coeur d’Alene, Big Sky or Glacier Mountain National Park. Well, it may make sense that they focus on those places but, if you have the chance, venture off-the-beaten-path. I did just that simply on intuition, assuming/hoping that the remote corners of Idaho and Montana would deliver. I was not disappointed. Lake Pend Oreille, Ross Creek Cedar Trail and Kootenai Falls delivered!

#1 Before Montana: Idaho and Lake Pend Oreille

On my way to NW Montana, we drove north from Coeur d’Alene on route 95 through the town of Sandpoint to take Route 200 around Lake Pend Oreille. Originally we had planned to go north past Sandpoint to Bonners Ferry and then take U.S. Highway 2. However, the visitor center in Sandpoint recommended not continuing north on Route 95 but taking Route 200 instead to enjoy the scenic drive along the lake’s shore. The exact quote was “I don’t why young punks insist of going north to Bonners Ferry”; I was flattered by the “young”…

In any event… Lake Pend Oreille is the 5th deepest lake in the U.S. and the 38th/39th largest lake in the country. Interestingly, it became the second largest naval training ground in the world during World War II after the attack on Pearl Harbor – who knew!

Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho's panhandle, map, great drive

Lake Pend Oreille looks like an ear – or a shrimp

The name of the lake means ear pendant in French which makes sense as it looks like an ear on the map. However, it was named back when the shape was not as evident. But, a likely explanation I read was that the Kalispeli residents of the area, whom the Canadian traders ran into, did wear ear pendants.

I don’t know what our original planned route would have been like but Route 200 around the lake was right on point. Lake Pend Oreille’s coastline is nice and curvy and there are plenty of pull-offs to stop and soak it all in.

We were also advised to try The Pantry bakery in Clark Fork where locals make delicious and fresh pastries (and one could pick up something for lunch too). We did stop and enjoyed apple and cherry pies and bought this phenomenal chocolate pound cake that I enjoyed the rest of the trip!

#2 Ross Creek Cedar Trail in Route 56

Once we left Clark Fork, the visitor center advisor had also suggested we take Route 56 on our way to get to U.S. Highway 2 as the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park was worth a stop and Route 56 was quite scenic. Our plan all along had been to get to Hwy 2 (but by Bonners Ferry, if you recall…) to enter Montana so the recommendation would still allow us to do that, so we took it. Some time after crossing into Montana from Idaho on Route 200, we found Route 56.

Ross Creek Cedar Trail was a short (1 mile or so) walk through a grove of cedar trees. The tree trunks were massively wide at their bases. Some of the trees are 1,000 years old (I found it mindboggling but the forest service website says so!). It was a nice way to stretch the legs on an easy trail and breathe clean, fresh air! (Well, as long as you are not close to the vault toilets… what a situation!)

The drive out of the park along route 56 going north towards Troy was fun as it was not highly trafficked and the scenery quite enjoyable. Driving north seeing the mountains ahead made for a memorable drive!

Ross Creek Cedar Trail, hiking in Montana, exploring western Montana, massive cedar tree

Heading out of the Ross Creek Cedar Trail park towards route 56

Views off route 56

Kootenai River, route 56 in Montana, Kootenai Falls, US Highway 2 in Montana

Entering Kootenai River Country in route 56

#3 Kootenai Falls in Montana

Soon, we reached Hwy 2 and and headed east to get to Kootenai Falls, about 4 miles away or so. Easy to pull off the road into a parking area next to the trail-head. It did not take long to see why this spot is so highly recommended as a must-see. The hike itself is not too strenuous but it is not a flat, smooth path. But before you get there, you will have to go down a few flights of stairs in a large metal staircase that helps cross over the railroad line that goes through the area.

I will let the photos speak for themselves, just know that there are two paths: one to the main part of the falls and the other to a swinging bridge that serves a a good vantage point to look at the falls. Do cross the bridge as there is a good vantage point from there too.

Kootenai Falls, northwest Montana, Off the beaten path Montana, nature

Some spectacular fishing spot!

Photo opps galore!

Check out the falls in motion!

Do you have other suggestions for exploring the remote corners of Idaho and Montana ??

Filed Under: Great Drives, Idaho, Montana, Travel Journal Tagged With: exploring western Montana, Idaho's Panhandle, Idaho's route 200, impressive waterfalls, Kootenai Falls, Lake Pend Oreille, ross creek cedar trail

Glacier Mountain National Park: St. Mary and Virginia Falls

30 September 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Glacier Mountain National Park in Montana is known as the “Crown of the Continent.” And it is rightly so called: it is peaceful, magnificent, and elegant. One of the funnest hikes in the park is hiking to St. Mary Falls and Virginia Falls right by the edge of St. Mary Lake, one of the two main lakes in the most visited part of the park.

St. Mary Lake is on the eastern side of the park, at the eastern end of the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, by the small town of St. Mary. GTTS Road, as it is colloquially known, is one of the absolute must-dos to enjoy the Glacier Mountain park’s majesty. Driving along the lake going westward from the park’s main entrance is by itself an enjoyable experience. As you drive west, the lake will be on your left with majestic mountains as the backdrop – which makes for many great photo opportunities. There are numerous spots to pull off the road to admire the beauty and/or take pictures (don’t snap and drive!). Depending on the time of day, the light will be different. If you have the luxury of seeing it at different times of the day (especially early-early AM or late/late afternoon), do so! I got to drive GTTS Road both in the mid/late-afternoon and in the early morning, and loved the difference sunrise vs. pre-sunset made in the scenery.

montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

Looking west towards a mid-afternoon cloud-covered sky

Once we got to the western end of the lake (about 10 miles from the park entrance), we pulled in to the parking area to take us to St. Mary Falls. This parking lot was between the St. Mary Falls shuttle stop and the Sunrift Gorge shuttle stop. If you are taking the park’s red shuttle, you can start the hike from either of those stops as there are trailheads next to them.

Our plan was to hike 1.2 miles to get to St. Mary Falls (4,560 ft altitude). Then we would go a little further (an additional 0.7 miles) to reach Virginia Falls which sits higher at around 4,800 ft. If you are of average fitness, you are likely able to go all the way to Virginia Falls. If you feel you can handle the climb, you will likely agree that it is worth going that much further and higher to see Virginia Falls. In the end, it is not a long hike, really.

While bears are in their natural habitat anywhere in the park, this particular trail is well-trodden by people so, hopefully, the noise of people talking keeps them from approaching the trail. Just be on the lookout and carry your bear spray in a spot where you can quickly access it. There is no better way to keep yourself safe than to be proactive in looking out for your safety!

Hiking to St. Mary Falls

Along the way you can admire mountains that rise upwards of 8,000 ft in altitude (on a trail where your max altitude is about 4,800 ft). Pay attention to the signage as (from the parking lot we started from) there are a couple of junctions that could take you to different places.

montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

One of the junctions

Once we were far enough along, all of a sudden we saw a river (St. Mary) and then heard the sound of the waterfall.

montana outdoors, st mary falls, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The bridge is the sign of the destination!

St Mary River downstream from the same-named falls

Pretty soon we saw the wooden bridge placed in front of the waterfalls and, as we turned a bend, got to the bridge so we could see the waterfalls. The waterfalls has three levels though two of them are the most eye-catching of the trio.

St. Mary Falls

Hiking on to Virginia Falls

Once you are done enjoying St. Mary Falls continue the trail on the other side of the bridge. The terrain gets a little more difficult to get to Virginia Falls. We were excited to see a waterfall but realized that was not Virginia Falls.

The trail got steeper but, thankfully, the scenery made it all worth it. I don’t think you have to be an athlete to do this hike as long as you are generally in good health. Feel free to stop and snap photos – it gives you a little rest and there are definitely a couple of spots where one should step and just soak it all in.

hiking trail, montana outdoors, st mary lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park, ilivetotravel hiking

Can’t pass on snapping a photo in front of the beautiful landscape!

The best spot to do that is actually the foot of Virginia Falls. But wait. You will see Virginia Falls from a vantage point where you can appreciate them from a distance. But that’s not what I am calling the “foot” of the falls.

virginia falls, montana outdoors, st mary lake, sunset over a lake, GTTS road, GMNP, Glacier Mountain National Park

The first sighting of Virginia Falls

There is a view point a short distance up from that one. It is worth dealing with the trail which, if it is wet, can be a tad slippery.

Keep on going!

That view offers a flat rocky area with plenty of space to get close enough to the waterfalls – you can feel the spray on you. It is much more impressive than St. Mary Falls partly for its size but also the setting of the spot.

Amazing!

What do you think??? Of the scenery, NOT of my video-ing skills!

This short hike (about 4 miles round trip) can be added to by visiting nearby Baring Falls which requires going almost all the way back and, at one of the aforementioned junctions, make a different turn (unless you park at Sun Point Nature Trail in which case you will pass Baring Falls on your way to St. Mary Falls). After seeing St. Mary and Virginia Falls, we felt it was unlikely Baring would impress us. I wish I had seen it just to know for sure but it was time to call it a day!

The reward after a nice hike is looking back west across St. Mary Lake as one follows GTTS Road

Filed Under: Hiking, Travel Journal, Western Montana Tagged With: glacier mountain national park, going to the sun road, hiking, montaña, st mary falls

Exploring the former East Germany Off-the-Beaten-Path: Wismar

1 August 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Most of us experience the former East Germany via a visit to Berlin. I don’t know about most but, for me, most of my time in Germany has been either in Berlin, Munich or the western parts (Dusseldorf, Koblenz, Heidelberg, etc.). This past summer, I got to venture elsewhere. More precisely, northern Germany with focus on Hamburg (read here for top things to do there for free) and Lübeck. It was while visiting the area around the latter that I happened upon an unexpectedly wonderful town: Wismar, in the former East Germany, a coastal city by the Baltic Sea. I was exploring off-the-beaten-path Germany.

Wismar, East Germany, DDR, Germany, platz, German squares

Main square

To say that it was a great find would not be inaccurate. And it is a far cry from the experience of Berlin which, I am sure, is more of an outlier than the norm. Visiting Wismar is definitely off-the-beaten-path Germany!

Is Wismar the Jewel of the Baltic Sea?

I don’t claim to have explored the towns around the Baltic Sea to any great extent so I can’t say quite that. But I can probably say it is likely one of the great “undiscovered” (by the North American travel audience, at least) destinations on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

I have to be frank: I had not heard of it at all before I landed in Germany for this trip. Only upon looking for a half a day trip to take from our base near Lübeck did I discover Wismar. I will let you decide from the photos what you think but know that Wismar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. But look at the architectural details of the town’s buildings!

A long history

Wismar was one of the Hanseatic League towns that dotted the coasts of northern Europe / Scandinavia. Its origins can be traced to the 1100s. I was surprised to learn that Wismar became part of Germany only as recently as 1871 and that Sweden only renounced its claim to it in 1903! Today, it claims about 42,000 inhabitants and it seems in the process of being re-born from and getting past the era of Communism.

A town re-born out of the ashes of communism

For a visitor, Wismar is a manageable town, easy to drive around, easy to walk around. Not hard to orient oneself from its main square where there is still a surface parking lot. It has a good amount of medieval architecture for a country where WW II destroyed many, many old buildings. And the town has been spruced up significantly since East Germany got rid of its Communist regime and the shackles it imposed. Wismar is colorful and feels alive!

It was interesting to learn that some key renovations / repairs from the WW II damage had to wait until the early 1990s to start. Almost 50 years of ruin – unbelievable how much neglect of the human soul and history Communism brought.

Restoration of old buildings still going on

Out of the ruins of WW II – churches in Wismar

St. Mary’s (St. Marien) is a key example of the ruins from WW II.

The nave was severely damaged and it was not brought down until 1960. The bell tower survived (it probably had some repairs) but the nave was not re-constructed by design. That space, instead, serves now as a memorial to what was and what happened. Powerful.

Marienkirche, St. Mary, German churches, Wismar, churches in the former East Germany, DDR, travel, religion

The bell tower from 2 sides

Looking at the tower/facade from what would have been the inside of the church

The bases of the columns

Nearby St. George’s survived structurally but, with repairs carried out ONLY once Communism fell (40+ yrs later!), it has been re-opened but not as a church but as a museum.

Georgenkirche, St. George Church, Wismar, Germany, DDR, kirche, church, St. Georgen Kirche

How the church was (unrestored still) in 1990…

The best part of visiting St. George is to go up its bell tower. It has an elevator so it is accessible to all. The platform on the bell tower provides a great view of the town around it (not quite 360 degrees, unfortunately, but good enough).

While our time in Wismar was short, it opened my eyes on what was possible to explore in the Baltic coast of Germany, and especially its eastern part. So much to learn and see (and to eat) in off-the-beaten-path Germany!

salmon, German potato cakes, German food, comida alemana, Wismar, Germany

This was an amazing lunch and a nice break from sightseeing!

Beautiful image to close out this post on this charming Baltic town!

Save this image to your travel pin board!

Filed Under: Europe, Germany, Travel Journal Tagged With: Alemania, brick Gothic architecture, churches in the former East Germany, Communist towns in Germany, discover Germany, East Germany, Hanseatic League towns, reise, travel, travel in Germany, turismo, Wismar

4 Tips to Visit the Charles Bridge in Prague

17 July 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

The Charles Bridge in Prague deserves every bit of fame it gets for gracing and connecting Prague – a quite unique town itself. The Charles Bridge spans the Vltava River (not the Danube!) and provides ample photo opportunities for selfie-crazed tourists or normal tourists! I got to check it out or walk on it to get places and want to share four tips to visit the Charles Bridge as an excuse to showcase my photos 🙂

A little history of the Charles Bridge in Prague

Construction of the bridge began in the 1300s to replace a prior one and it was finished in 1402. Now THAT is an old bridge! The King that ordered its construction was Charles, hence the name of the bridge, though that name is a relatively recent name actually. For hundreds of years, it was the only way to cross the river other than a boat.

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel

Old relief carving of the city shows the bridge already crowded!

The bridge is about 600m long and has 16 arches holding it up. It was cool to see the ice breaking structures protecting the pillars though I did not see them “in action” as I went in the spring.

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #1 – the statues

My first tip is to not just look at the statues that grace either side of the bridge and snap a photo, but to read about them as you look at them. They are mainly not the original statues but replicas. Now, there are many (perhaps around 32?) so maybe you will not have time or attention span to do that with all of them (I didn’t!) but there is a lot of meaning and stories behind the people. These statues were placed there to convey stories or values, memorialize individuals, and perhaps to add grace to the bridge. Mind them!

One of the many statues on the bridge!

While the statues are the dominant “decoration” of the bridge, there are a few plaques or carvings worth noting (and reading of in advance!).

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, John Nepomuceno

Carvingn depicting St. John Nepomuk being thrown off the bridge under orders of King Wenceslas

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #2 – the light and time of day

OK, my next tip is that there are many angles for a good photo but which angle is best varies with the time of day as the sun changes position in the sky. I recommend going at different times throughout the day so you can face the sun as you take that priceless group photo or selfie with different sides of the city behind you. And that includes nighttime!

Early in the morning – beautiful angle

Night time looking towards Prague Castle

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #3 – the underside

Of course, people spend the time during the visit ON the bridge. But, I ventured a little bit on the Prague Castle side of the bridge in the residential area BELOW the bridge. It was charming (and quiet at that early time of the day). I wonder how the residents cope with the hordes of us tourists all over the area during the day… In any case, you will find the entrance to staircases to take you down right on the bridge, or you can enter the area near the tower on the Prague Castle end of it. Get off the bridge and explore its “underside”!

Right under the bridge

Around the small neighborhood under the bridge

And you never know when you will spot wedding photo sessions!

Prague, Praga, Praha, Charles Bridge, Czechia, Czech, travel, NYFD memorial

Memorial to the 911 NYC firemen who died – unexpected find!

Tips to visit the Charges Bridge – #4 – when to spend time there

My top tip for visiting the Charles Bridge is to go early in the morning, before the city gets crowded with locals and tourists. I am an early riser and while the rest of my group woke up and got ready, since we were staying a block away from the bridge, I went for a walk and almost had the bridge all to myself!

The same shot in the afternoon would look very different as the sun would light the photo differently

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Hope these tips to visit the Charles Bridge in Prague are helpful. Enjoy checking out the Charles Bridge – and Prague!

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Filed Under: Czech Republic, Europe, Travel Journal Tagged With: Charles Bridge, Czech, Czechia, photo spot, Praga, Prague, Praha, tourism, travel

Serbia’s Novi Sad and Its Petrovaradin Fortress

13 June 2019 by Raul 4 Comments

As part of my short visit to Serbia, I wanted to check out the town of Novi Sad, not far from Belgrade. I combined it with exploring Fruska Gora and its vicinity. I went in a small guided tour which, unfortunately, mainly gave us free time in Novi Sad; i.e., not much in terms of a guided tour there. But it did spend time at the Petrovaradin Fortress and covered it pretty well.

I have to admit not knowing much about Novi Sad before planning my trip and had never heard about the fortress at all. But that’s why I travel: to learn of the things that have not crossed my path before and then to get to see them in person! A lot of the learning happens while researching potential destinations and then when the planning begins: studying the destination to allocate my time there to those things that catch my eye the most, be it a high point (in Lübeck, Germany), a unique sight (the DMZ in Korea), a historic building (the monstrous Parliament in Bucharest), or just food (in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood)!

Petrovaradin Fortress

The Petrovaradin Fortress sits high along the banks of the Danube River facing the center of Novi Sad. Its unique vantage point provides great views of the river, the bridges crossing it, the main part of the city, and the surroundings of the fort itself. The site seems to have hosted human settlement and early fortifications from before the times when Romans established themselves there. Petrovaradin was a key battleground in the Hapsburg Empire (Austria) pushing back the Ottoman Empire one final time away from being a threat to Central Europe. Its fortress’ buildings and walls have been built, maintained, enhanced, etc. over the centuries.

Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Danube River, Donau

Entrance to the fort

Walking along the uppermost walls facing the Danube

One can explore the fortress and its massive walls by walking around

A curiosity of the fortress is the clock tower. It was built with the hour hand being longer than the minute hand, contrary to most clocks that are not digital 🙂

Clock tower; it was around 12:45PM

Supposedly Petrovaradin has miles of anti-mine tunnels underneath but we did not get to see them; perhaps they are in disrepair and not safe? Petrovaradin was more than just a fortress. It was a fortified area with exterior walls protecting an area with many buildings. In any case, the site was impressive to me for two main reasons: the scale of the fortifications that one can see and the great location up high so one can soak in Novi Sad and the Danube River.

View towards the city center of Novi Sad

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Petrovaradin Fortress, Петроварадинска тврђава, Petrovaradinska tvrđava

Area right below the viewing area is part of the fortified area

Modern road crossing the “moat” and going through massive walls

Fortifications facing the Danube River

Novi Sad’s city center

Novi Sad is Serbia’s second largest city with about a quarter million inhabitants – nice size: not too big, not too small! It resides in the Vojvodina autonomous province and serves as its capital. The city actually does not pre-date the Petrovaradin Fortress but the other way around. As cities go in this part of the world, it is ONLY slightly over 300 years old. A baby by European standards but ancient by U.S. standards!!

Novi Sad, Serbia, Srbija, Central Europe, architecture, modern, travel

Bishop’s Palace from 1901 – interesting mix of styles

St. George’s Orthodox Cathedral

Novi Sad suffered a lot of damage in shelling that took place in the mid 19-century. The main square and neighboring streets, though, contain many charming buildings with architecture that I associate with 19th century Central Europe. I wish I had had more time to walk further out than I did.

The Name of Mary Catholic Church

Other angle on the church and nearby buildings on the square

Roof of the Church of the Holy Name of Mary

While there are beautiful buildings from back when, one can also spot some post-WW II modern buildings here and there in the city center, with more of them to be found as one moves out, I am sure.

Great contrast of old and new

Old and new again but the new is less so than the prior photo…

As I ventured outwards from the main square, I spotted what I am guessing is the bar/party street of the city center. But, it was around lunchtime so no parties going on!

Party street!

I enjoyed strolling down the pedestrian streets filled with shops and cafés, while looking at the neat buildings all around. While this was just a short visit to get a mental image of Novi Sad, it looks like a relaxed town to spend time at. Perhaps I will get to visit it again some day!

The Hotel Vojvodina in the main square

A building near the main square

City Hall on the left built in 1894

Check out what cool places to see in Belgrade!

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Central Europe travel, Danube River, Novi Sad, Petrovaradin Fortress, Serbia, Srbija

Fruska Gora: An Easy and Rewarding Day Trip from Belgrade

3 June 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

The Fruska Gora (Fruška Gora, Фрушка гора) mountain gives the name to the national park in Serbia around which many monasteries, charming towns, and vineyards can be found, just an hour or less away from Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, and much closer to Serbia’s second town, Novi Sad. The Fruska Gora National Park runs east to west, almost or barely spilling into neighboring Croatia. While we drove through parts of it, we did not explore it but, instead, checked out some of the places right outside its borders.

Driving in the area, on my way to Novi Sad from Belgrade (and now, while looking at my photos) makes me wish I could have spent a week just exploring every corner of this area in north Serbia bordering eastern Croatia and southern Hungary. Such natural beauty, such complicated history, and so easy to explore!

On my recent trip to Serbia, I was based in Belgrade where I enjoyed sightseeing. I have learned that in many Central and Eastern European countries, the country’s second largest city tends to be more charming and relaxed than the capital cities (Poland/Krakow, Bulgaria/Plovdiv, Romania/Brasov, etc.) so I booked a day trip to Novi Sad. However, the one I decided upon would show me a glimpse of the area in and around the Fruška Gora National Park which I thought would add to my exploring by seeing something beyond two cities.

It was a good decision. First off, we visited the Krusedol Monastery, and then we visited the colorful town of Sremski Karlovci where -bonus- I got to sample the local Bermet wine! Win, win, and triple win!

Krusedol (Krušedol) Monastery

Serbia is known for the monasteries that grace its land. Many were built in the Middle Ages and have seen the sweeps of history cross this country placed in a unique geographical crossroads (some, in fact, did not survive those “sweeps”). From what I have read, the monasteries are quite diverse in their design and location (cliff face, valleys, etc.). This page in the Serbia.com website shows a few images that convey this diversity. In our visit, we stopped at what I would assume is a more conventional monastery near the Fruska Gora National Park: Krusedol Monastery. (Other day trips from Belgrade are available to explore other monasteries too.)

Krusedol was built between 1509-1514 and is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. It peaked at 90 monks in the late 17th century and has been damaged and ransacked across the centuries so many treasures, relics, etc. from the older times are gone. Later reconstructions of the church changed its initial architecture some, creating a blended style.

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Church and inner courtyard

The monastery first greets you with a large red gate in the shape of a church and red walls. To the left you can notice a cemetery on an uphill and you can perhaps see a family picnicking on its grounds with a cake and other food items to remember a lost one.

The main gate

Door of the main gate

Perimeter wall by the main gate, notice the cemetery on top of the hill

As you enter the gate a treed field greets you as you make your way to the main compound. You can see some quarters and stables straight ahead as you walk, and then you make a turn towards the church and main compound.

The area between the main gate and the monastery’s compound

Approaching the main compound. Note the old well on the left.

Inside the church, there are icons dating back to the 17th century though the frescoes, I understand, may be more recent or recently touched up. It is an understated place of worship, meaning it is not grandiose but still inspiring.

Entrance to the church

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Remnants of the fresco above the door (no photos allowed inside)

I recommend a visit to either this or other monasteries to get a sense of the important role these places had for centuries, much as they did in other places (see my visit to Moldova‘s monasteries here).

Sremski Karlovci

Near Novi Sad sits the small town of Sremski Karlovci, a charming and historically important town of about 9,000 in Serbia’s northern Vojvodina province. The town is right outside the Fruska Gora National Park along the shores of the Danube River. The town makes for a convenient stop when going to or coming back from visiting Novi Sad. Combined with the monastery visit, it is a great day trip from Belgrade though I would personally rather spend a few days exploring the Vojvodina province which offers a lot more. It was a weekend day when I visited and people were out and about. Though there was a little rain, it still felt that the place was alive (vs. some other towns I have visited that seem completely devoid of people on a weekend day!).

The town, as many places in this part of Europe, went back and forth between different rulers. Some of the most important ones were Hapsburg Austria and the Ottoman Empire. Sremski Karlovci served as the meeting point when an important peace treaty was agreed to by both sides at the end of the 17th century. The town, in general, served as an important center of Serbia’s political, cultural, and spiritual life during the Austrian rule. The town boasts Serbia’s first secondary school and its first seminary. The secondary school or “gymnasium” is really colorful – architectural eye-candy.

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Karlovci Gymnasium (high school)

Other cool buildings include the Patriarchate (where the Serbian Orthodox Church leader -or Patriarch- used to reside, built at the end of the 19th century), the City Hall (built around 1810), and random buildings in various states of restoration / health!

Patriarchate Court

City Hall

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Notice the roof lines, especially on the rightmost structure!

I found it really cool that the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity in the town’s center sit next to each other. I like the symbolism…

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St. Nicholas Serbian Orthodox Church

Interior of St. Nicholas Church during a service

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The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

The Four Lions fountain sits in front of the Catholic Church and, allegedly, if you drink its waters, you will come back to town and get married. I didn’t test the premise…

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

The Four Lions fountain

Many other beautiful buildings border the center of town (not quite a “square”) and they hold important spots in Serbian history. It is a nice town to walk around and enjoy the architecture, the charm, and the happenstance of small town life.

A dog’s rough life by the fountain!

Fruska Gora’s Bermet wine

After some of that wandering, a stop at a local winery is a good idea. The one we visited did not take walk-ins so be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. The winery itself was in a cool (temperature and ambience!) setting and had some nice old artifacts.

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Tunnels where the wine is stored

Public area at the winery

We sampled the local specialty wine of Bermet, supposed to be the favorite dessert wine of European courts. It originates from the Fruska Gora region of the Vojvodina and I not only sampled, but took a bottle with me to share with my family when I met up with them the next day in Prague!

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Nice stuff!

It was superb! Živeli !

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Belgrade day trip, Bermet wine, Fruska Gora, Krusedol Monastery, Novi Sad, Serbian dessert wine, Serbian monastery, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

9 Cool Places to See in Belgrade, Serbia

27 May 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

Serbia is in a unique spot in what seems to be where Central and Eastern Europe meet. It very likely is not in the top 10 target destinations for someone from North America but, of course, that means nothing to me: I had in on my list of places to see (it is a very long list!). Being surrounded by many countries I have visited added to the curiosity since none of those countries were alike. I wanted to see if Serbia was akin to any of the others I had seen. I learned it was an interesting place rich with history and cool places to see.

Initially, this trip to Europe was anchored on Prague, Vienna and Budapest – destinations my cousin had been targeting – but I thought it was the perfect trip into which to incorporate a visit to Serbia. I flew in from the U.S. via Charles de Gaulle in Paris and, when I left, I flew from Belgrade to Prague to meet up with my cousin and the others on the trip.

Impressions of Serbia’s Capital: Belgrade

Of course, the trip began in Belgrade, its capital city. I did not know what to expect. Was it more like its Central European neighbors’ capital cities or more like its Eastern European neighbors’ capital cities? Well, I could not quite peg to either and that was actually kind of cool. Its unique placement at the confluence of two large rivers (the Danube being one and the Sava being the other), its strategic location over centuries of fighting back and forth between Ottomans and Europeans, and its more gradual transition out of a Communist (though milder than other Eastern European countries) past lent it a very different feel than any of the other cities in the region.

Cool Places to See in Belgrade

Belgrade is a city with plenty of places to check out. They are not all concentrated in one core part so a good plan or a guided tour (see next section) is best. I explored many of these through the guided tour but also by exploring on my own before and after the tour. I enjoyed the mix of sites that I got to explore, some for the history, some for the views, and some to just stroll through and relax! Here is my list of cool places to see in Belgrade.

1 – Tašmajdan Park and St. Mark’s Orthodox Church

Tašmajdan is a quiet city park near by the Metropol Palace Hotel and Parliament, with great paths for walking or jogging. It also hosts special events; there were fireworks there one of the nights I was in town.
At one end of it (towards Parliament) is the beautiful church of St. Mark‘s which is nicely illuminated at night. It was only built in the mid-20th century but that does not take away from its beauty. The prior church built on that side was destroyed during World War I.
Looking at St. Mark’s from the park

Interior of St. Mark

Main avenue by the park (Bulevar kralja Aleksandra)

Memorial at the park for children who died in 1999 NATO bombings of the city

2 – Tito Mausoleum

Josip Broz Tito was the leader of Communist Yugoslavia for most of its existence. But he was also a World War II hero to the country.
He also led the Non-Aligned Movement that sought to create a sphere separate from U.S. and Soviet leadership though, in the end, it is hard to believe its full neutrality when Soviet puppets like Cuba were part of it…
In any case, parts of the site are undergoing renovations but the mausoleum itself containing his tomb (and his wife’s who lived an extra 33 years mostly under something akin to house arrest) is open. It is also known as the House of Flowers.
It so happened that it was the anniversary of Tito’s death when I visited so every visitor was handed lapel pins with his image.
The site is not in the heart of the city but I’d say it is worth the effort if you like history or are curious about the Cold War that now seems something so distant to many…
Tito’s tomb

3 – Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade sits by the intersection of the Sava and Danube rivers. That intersection is best appreciated from a park at Belgrade Fortress.
Belgrade Fortress has a long history and its construction / expansion happened under different “regimes” over the centuries. It is an interesting place to explore but make sure someone explains that history so you can better appreciate the site.
Suffice it to say that the site’s origins go back to when the settlement was that of a Celtic tribe around 300 B.C. and later became a Roman one. It developed over time into the larger fortress evidenced today at the site.
But not without many instances of being destroyed and rebuilt. One such installment happened in the 18th century when Austria returned the area to the Ottoman Empire but had to destroy the fortifications as part of the terms agreed to…
Kalemegdan Park abuts the fortress and it is a place to enjoy a break from all the exploring and watch life go by.
One of the main gates to the fortress

The walls of the fortress show different construction periods

View of the intersection of the Danube River (top right) with the Sava River

4 – Avala Tower

Outside the city, the Avala Tower (over 200m tall) offers great views of the region around Belgrade and the city itself. It is worth trekking out there and paying to go up for the views.
The original tower was lost to NATO bombings in 1999 so the tower now on the site is only around 10 years old.
The tower is not really inclined!

My only photo of the view has me as an accessory…

5 – Monument to the Unknown Hero

The monument is located really close to the Avala Tower making the extra distance to go see one be even more worth it.
It was built before World War II to commemorate an unknown World War I soldier tomb found there.
The structure atop a steep flight of stairs is quite impressive. It is decorated with massive statues of women in local attire representing the various areas of the former Yugoslavia. The plaza around it is quite pleasant and a nice spot to rest.
Nice path leads to the monument atop the staircase

Two of the eight statues atop the monument

Great, placid vistas of the countryside

6 – Strolling through the streets of Belgrade

Belgrade is not enjoying the money brought in by big tourism as other cities like Prague may be. While the limited investment is visible, it lends great charm to the city as it does not feel amusement-park like. It feels like a regular city, with character and history both of which afford the attentive eye good opportunities for cool photos!
The Dorćol district right by the Danube is a cool one to walk around. Though damaged during Allied bombing in World War II, you can appreciate how Belgrade must have felt like back in the day. It is interesting to see a rare mosque from around the 17th century almost around the corner from the Jewish Historical Museum.
The area known as Skadarlija is supposed to be fun and bohemian district of Belgrade. I did not spend time there but heard many good things about it.
Charming old tram

Beautiful building!

Street art is not only a Belgrade thing but I liked this one

Another great piece of architecture near Belgrade Fortress

7 – The small town of Zemun

Now a “suburb” of greater Belgrade (New Belgrade), it used to be its own town dating back to Roman times (as does part of Old Belgrade).
Its Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower) is a short climb but being located atop a hill, it offers nice views towards Old Belgrade. Seemingly its grounds are also popular among couples getting married for photos of the big day! The tower was built at the end of the 19th century and it is well worth heading there.
Coming down to the main square, we stopped a corner bakery where I was introduced to a delicious Serbian cheese-filled pastry called burek. Spectacular!
The Gardoš Tower

The view from up high with yours truly

Burek!

8 – Church of St. Sava

Unfortunately, this important and large Serbian Orthodox Church, was not open during my visit. Construction started in the 1930s and it is still being finished though most of it seems to nbe done.
An interesting factoid is that its main dome was built on the grounded and lifted into position in 1989.
Though the main part of the church is not open, the crypt was. It was quite beautiful.
Exterior

Nicely illuminated crypt!

9 – The Nikola Tesla Museum and the nearby Kultura Bar

As an electrical engineer (though I may not remember most of what I learned in those university years past!), visiting the birth city of Nikola Tesla presented the opportunity to explore the local museum dedicated to him. Now, Mr. Tesla moved early on to the United States but still it is his birth city so a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum was top on my list. The museum is a little different than most museums in that you can only enter it on the hour and the group is capped as the experience is partially guided. It starts with a 15-minute movie followed by exploring the concepts Tesla worked with – hands-on. One has to look in advance to see for a given time slot what language is the guided tour offered in so one doesn’t show up -as I did- at a time in a language one doesn’t understand…

Unfortunately, my first attempt was at the correct language for English but I didn’t get to make it in as the group was maxed out. Luckily for me, I had read in advance of cool local bars and one of the top ones was one block away so I went over to have a drink and, I thought, kill 45 minutes so I could get into the next group (which was in English). Well, that was a great plan except the bar, Kultura Bar, was so quaint and the bar staff so friendly that I just stayed on 2-3 hours and missed the opportunity to visit the museum. Now that is going with the flow! Their tequila-based Old Fashioned was pretty darn good!

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Interior of the Kultura Bar

How best to explore Belgrade: small group guided tour

Since my time in Serbia was very limited, I signed up for a small group Belgrade tour to maximize the number of sights I could visit without worrying about how to get to places or getting distracted (see the prior section on the failed Nikola Tesla museum visit!). The smaller group is more manageable for the tour guide as the vehicle can be smaller and he can get to talk with everyone standing just right around him. It also moves faster as there is less chance of people holding the group up.

This was a great idea as the sites to visit were not necessarily within easy walking distance from each other. We did have a part of the tour that allowed us to walk around through the heart of the city which was nice as we got to mix being driven places with enough time out and about. The tour allowed me to get a good sense of the city and where things were for future reference.

You can probably find a number of operators out there without me talking about who I used. I found the guide for this tour very ready to help us learn about Belgrade and Serbia and proud of his town. Vert cool

My next day in Serbia was spent going outside of Belgrade to explore Serbia’s second city, the jewel town of Novi Sad. More on that in an upcoming post! In the meantime, pin this image to your travel board!

Filed Under: Europe, Serbia Tagged With: Avala Tower, Belgrade, Belgrado, Beograd, cool places to see in Belgrade, Serbia, Srbija, St. Sava, Tito Mausoleum, travel, Yugoslavia, Zemun

How to Handle Money when Traveling: Multiple Currencies

18 May 2019 by Raul 5 Comments

Managing money when traveling may not be the sexiest travel topic as it does not involve recounting places seen, accidental cool discoveries, or the most delicious dessert eaten. However, it deals with a topic that many new travelers wonder about. And not just only new travelers. I have traveled quite a bit and my recent trip to Europe certainly made me stop and think on a strategy for all this.

Why? If you have visited or will be visiting a region with multiple currencies, you will get what I had to deal with. Here is my deal: I was visiting 5 countries using 4 different currencies and spending only about 2-3 days in most of them. I had to figure out a strategy.

Serbia had the dinar. The Czech Republic had the koruna. Austria and Slovakia used the euro. Hungary had its forints. That presented a challenge on what to do to not end up with a lot of unused local currency to either bring home or exchange back into my currency at some brutal exchange rate (where I would be on the losing end of brutal). I am not one to just throw away good money!

Serbian dinars

Should one get foreign currency before leaving for the trip?

Before we get to my strategy. Let’s talk about this which is important even if just needing one foreign currency…

Some folks like to be prepared and get currency for the countries they are visiting before they leave home. That can be out of a sense of being well-prepared or because they are nervous about arriving somewhere without local currency. I get those two concerns. Or, it could be that they are fearful of using ATMs in another country.

I don’t exchange money in my home country before my trip for several reasons. Firstly, one is charged more than one should spend doing it this way. Not to mention that some of the currencies you may need (think Serbian dinar) may not even be available in one’s home country.

Secondly, I am not worried about using ATMs in another country as, in my experience, they are no less safe than ATMs in my own country. Perhaps 20 years ago the concern was more valid (though I have been using ATMs internationally since the networks’ connectivity became available sometime in the 1990s), but in today’s globalized world and in regions like East Asia, Australia/New Zealand, South America or Europe there should be no concerns.

Thirdly, it is easy enough to get local currency upon arrival at another country especially when arriving via an international airport or major train station.

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Czech and EU money

So how to get local currency in a foreign country?

Usually, there are ATM machines in most airports in the regions I mentioned. However, there are two ATM types: the ones affiliated with banks and the ones independent of those banks and just associated with some random network that costs more to use than using a regular local bank’s ATM. I don’t want to name names here but if the most prominent label on the ATM has the word “net” in it, I would be suspicious…

Where can you find the ATMs?

Banks’ ATMs are usually located in the public area after one passes customs and exits to mingle with those waiting for passengers arriving.
Non-bank ATMs typically are found in the baggage claim area, almost preying on the overeager passenger, and sometimes in the public area too.

What I recommend and do (most of the time) is research ahead of time where the airport’s ATMs are located (most airports’ websites have this information).

Also search using your favorite search engine the names of banks so you know which are real banks’ ATMs. Examples of banks include Raiffeisen, Ceska Sporitelna, CSOB, OTP Bank, Erste Bank, CIB Bank, etc. Only use local banks’ ATMs!!

But is cash really needed abroad? Are credit cards readily accepted abroad?

Great question. Again, in the areas I mention and other countries outside of those, credit cards are generally accepted. But even in the regions I cited, not everyone accepts credit cards. In the heart of Vienna itself, for example, a not-small cafe we ate at did not take credit cards – and caught us by surprise as we were not paying attention. Thankfully, ATMs were easily accessible in that area…

In addition, sometimes a purchase in a place that accepts credit cards is so small that cash payment is required.

Note: When paying with credit cards, in many places one is offered to pay in U.S. dollars (at least for U.S.-issued credit cards) or the local currency. ALWAYS go for the local currency as your credit card will always give you a better exchange rate than the local company handling the transaction will use to convert your tab to U.S. dollars!

However, besides those two scenarios and the note, there is also the topic of tipping which may further affect the need for having local cash…

Tipping abroad – how it works

Well, this is a topic for another post but, since many have written about it, I will only touch on a couple of points.

First, if you are from the U.S., please please understand that tipping like we tip at home is NOT necessary. In many places, waitstaff is not paid minimum wage like at home so the need for tipping is more a courtesy or a show of gratitude than needing to help the person earn an acceptable living.

Secondly, though, tipping norms vary across countries (even in the same region!) and vary across services (taxis, bell boys, waitstaff, etc.). So, it is best to read up ahead of time to understand what may be normal/expected in the country(ies) you are visiting. In some places, just rounding up the bill is enough. In others, 5-10% is typical.

Finally, there is the question of how can one tip. Fun times… In some places (I found this more common in Budapest than the other places), the service charge or fee is already on the bill which means that, if one pays by credit card, one does not need cash for tipping. In the places where it was not pre-added to the tip, tipping may or may not be addable to the check (and, therefore, to the credit card) for a number of possible reasons so one may need to have cash available. In Prague, it was hit or miss whether one could add the tip to the bill, making it unpredictable!

So how much local currency to get?

OK, having said all that, the question remains: given the short time spent in each country, and with varying considerations, and not wanting to have to exchange money back, what was my approach?

Let me start by explaining that I have a good situation with my bank. My bank does not have its own ATMs at home so I am always forced to use other banks’ ATMs when I do get cash. Therefore, my bank’s policy is to refund all standard ATM fees I incur. This played into my strategy on how to manage currencies in this trip. I would withdraw a slightly smaller amount than I thought I needed on the first day. That was knowing I could withdraw more at another time, without incurring more costs, if I learned that credit cards were not as accepted in the places I visited, or if I needed more cash for tips, taxi rides, or small purchases.

Another aspect of my approach was that, since I was traveling with my cousins and uncle, instead of each of us facing the same dilemma, we would keep it to one of us withdrawing cash and pooling our “cash needs” since some of those expenses would be shared. This would also reduce the fees assessed and likely leftover cash.

Managing my money when traveling on this multi-currency trip: how did it go?

In the end, if you decide to use ATMs and have to pay the ATM fees, the tradeoff is taking the risk of one more withdrawal’s cost vs. the likelihood of ending up with leftover cash to exchange. That is a decision that different people will handle differently. In our case, this all worked out very well and we rarely ended with too much cash outside of local currency I wanted to bring home for family’s and friends’ kids! Success!

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Filed Under: Travel Journal Tagged With: exchange rate, foreign currency, money abroad, travel advice, trip planning

Vistas de la Antigua Matanzas, Cuba

19 March 2019 by Raul Leave a Comment

Matanzas, Cuba -la Atenas de Cuba- es una ciudad que vibra en mi imaginación por ser por 200+ años la cuna de muchos de mis ancestros, incluyendo una abuela, varios bisabuelos, y de ahí hacia atrás hasta familias allá establecidas por la corona española para fundar en el 1693 la ciudad real de San Carlos y San Severino de Matanzas.

Sueño con ir algún día después del fin de la tiranía comunista que subyuga al ser humano. Mientras tanto trato de conocerla “viajando” allá a través de fotografías del álbum familiar y de revistas o libros que cruzan mi camino.

Aquí unas imágenes de un folleto creado no sé hace cuánto de la Matanzas pre-desastre-del-1959 que me regaló una tía.

Bella Matanzas (ciudad y provincia), ¿no?

Filed Under: Caribe/C América, Cuba Tagged With: Catedral de San Carlos, Cuba, Matanzas, valle del Yumuri, vintage photos

How to See Lübeck, Germany – from Up High

4 March 2019 by Raul 1 Comment

Lübeck, Germany is an amazing medieval town with lots to see and incredible architecture and streets to explore. An earlier post shares all these sights and places to explore. In this post, I share how to see Lübeck from up high. The vantage point offered by going up the tower of St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri Kirche) near the Holstentor Gate is probably best as it is almost at the center of the island where the heart of the city lies.

How to see Lübeck – first an aerial view

This aerial photo of the old town shows a couple of the places that will be mentioned – note the location of St. Peter (“St. Petri Kirche” on the map).

Looking west from St. Peter’s Church

The Holstentor Gate (shown on the map above) is the symbol of Lübeck and, short of being near it on the ground, this is the best way to appreciate it. It lies due west of St. Peter’s, a very short walk.

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Holtenstor Gate flanked on the left by the Salzspeicher warehouses

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Close-up of Holstentor Gate

Salzspeicher warehouses on the Trave River in Lubeck

Looking north

Looking immediately down on the north-facing side of the viewing area, you look down on Holstenstrasse, the shopping avenue that leads to the Holstentor gate. On the top right corner, you see a bit of Marienkirche (which you can see on the map above).

Then looking up still facing north, there is Marienkirche, still being worked on as it is repaired from war damage. Amazing.

Looking east

Looking east, you see St. Aegidien Church and lots of green in the background. St. Aegidien’s Church honors an abbot born in the 7th century in Athens, Greece who lived most of his life in south France. The history of a church on that site dates back from the 13th century and the church has mostly survived the ravages of war…

St. Aegidien Church

Looking northeast

Looking sort of to the northeast from St. Peter’s, one sees the historical main square and market area. On the left with a low white facade and a brick structure behind it with copper/green towers are city government offices. Towards the centre of the buildings on the market is the Niederegger Café where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a deliciously decadent cake made of marzipan. Mmm!!

Tip: Go through the arcade to the street behind and you will find a Niederigger store where your eyes will pop at all the amazing ways they can craft marzipan and make great sweets…

View of Lubeck, Germany, architecture in Germany

The main square with government offices and markets

Looking south

Looking south you see on the right the Trave River and to the left the Cathedral (Dom) of Lübeck. The cathedral suffered bombing and fire in World War II and, though some of the contents survived, it required major reconstruction that only got completed in 1982 as priority was given to re-building Marienkirche. An odd fact is that, although it is a cathedral, it is not the tallest church in town due to “competition” (or, political battles more likely) between religious authorities and guilds (which helped support their churches).

And, finally, looking southeast

The view below shows, from above, a typical street lined up with beautiful architecture. There are quite a few streets like this on the east side and south side of the town. I could have kept on walking admiring the facades of these beautiful buildings. The street seen in the center of the photo is Mühlenstrasse (look at the map at the top of this post where this street shows towards the bottom middle, and then look up on the right of the photo to see how many such side streets there are!).

You can see, I am certain, why I enjoy going up high in any town I visit so much. Seeing it from up high gives you perspective and a sense of the lay of the land that a map just doesn’t do justice to. Be it Bologna, Sydney, Berlin, Chicago or Lübeck, it is always worth the climb (or elevator ride where available!).

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