Asia - ilivetotravel's travel log

Angkor Thom’s Main Temple: Bayon

7 January 2017 by Raul Leave a Comment

While Angkor Wat is the better known of all the temple complexes in Cambodia, there are others that are a must. Bayon is one of those. It is imposing and a veritable maze, making it fun to explore. Bayon (built in the 12th-13th century period) sits in the middle of Angkor Thom which was the capital of the Khmer Empire back when (it is said between 80-150K people lived there at its peak back then). Bayon was at the center of that capital city as its most important temple. If you look at a map, the moat around Angkor Thom is much larger than the one around Angkor Wat. (All these sites got “lost” in the early 1600s for a few centuries.) Movies like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider have had scenes shot at Angkor Thom.

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Bayon (Angkor Thom is the larger square around it) in relation to Angkor Wat

We approached Angkor Thom and had a great view of the wall around Angkor Thom and a bridge (or causeway) decorated on either side with sitting statues. One drives through a gate that towers at the end of the bridge with each side of the tower carved with the face of a divinity. I believe we went through the south gate.

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Causeway entering Angkor Thom from the south

View across the causeway of the south gate

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Statues on the causeway

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The south gate

In any case, one approaches the main temple at Angkor Thom, Bayon, among a green field with palm trees. Having first seen Angkor Wat with its dramatic towers and monumentality, Bayon felt a little less imposing yet so different it looked magnificent.

Approaching Bayon – majestic!

From then we walked around different former hallways and around many towers and carvings. It is said Bayon is more baroque while Angkor Wat is more classical Khmer style. I am not an expert but certainly can tell that Bayon was much more loaded with carvings and more elaborate. Bayon is certainly striking due to the many towers carved on four sides with faces of deities or other figures but it lacked the big open spaces within it that Angkor Wat had.

Imposing

The explorers look diminutive as our guide tried to capture it all

Interesting things no matter where you look

As in many places, it is fun to watch other tourists engage with the site – and take their photo while they do so 🙂

Strike a pose!

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One of the many tourists 🙂 (thanks, Phil I. for snapping this winner!)

While Angkor Wat is overall more imposing, Bayon is definitely different enough to warrant the time to explore it – hope you get to do so!

Filed Under: Asia, Cambodia, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Cambodge, Cambodia, Camboya, carvings, explore, Khmer, photo, Samsung Galaxy, temple, tourism, travel

Sunset over Tonlé Sap Lake | Off the Beaten Path Cambodia

4 January 2017 by Raul 1 Comment

As I mentioned in an earlier post about arriving in and exploring Siem Reap, we had asked the hotel to organize a drive that took us out of the town and into the countryside. We were looking to experience off the beaten path Cambodia. We were hoping to see more than seeing the fantastic and majestic temples that are the main reason for one to go to Siem Reap and Cambodia to begin with. The idea was to get away from the tourist beat (nothing wrong with doing the tourist beat!). Cambodia was new to us. At least, through a brief outing, we hoped to see something not likely to be found in a tourist guide. Something beyond the typical tourist agenda (though we WERE tourists).

The answer for off the beaten path Cambodia in Siem Reap

The hotel did well. They arranged a car to take us to see the the sun set over the Tonlé Sap lake. That was a great suggestion. I don’t know how long it took us to drive out. But was far enough to the part of the lake that looked west. Was it 45 minutes? Can’t recall. In any case, there were small boats on the lake, I assume for tourists but not sure. However, we had a private car take us around because we just felt like taking it very easy.

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Driving past the local market intown along the river

Beginning to leave the town, nice area for sure

Sights around the outskirts of Siem Reap

Having our own transport allowed us to go into areas that I would guess tourists do not visit – our driver did really well (I thought he had said his name was Seagull – we found out a little too late it was Sygold – lol).

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A real tuk tuk: cart attached to motorcycle

We got to walk around the humble homes of folks who live by the lake. This not only afforded us great opportunities for sunset photos but also to see more of local life, even if for too short an experience. Seeing kids return from school, or play football (soccer) by the road, or just having fun on a bicycle made Cambodia more than just mere ancient and magnificent temples.

Off the beaten path Cambodia and my world connect through a sunset

And the combination of the setting sun with the lake, the vegetation, and the local homes certainly made for a beautiful sunset.

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My poor attempt at a subtle photo of a family picnicking…

It was a GREAT first day in Cambodia. Getting to see the sun set over this lake, and also witnessing a different reality than ours at home was a memory I will not forget. But some of the reality we saw was not -really- unlike a reality anywhere else, just a little of the circumstances were different. Seeing the children play and laugh was all the evidence I needed to confirm, yet anew, how much more alike we are, than different. If you have the chance to catch this sunset while visiting Angkor Wat, I recommend it!

What to Know

Going to the lake is pretty easy and does not take long. If you can take a little picnic, it may be enjoyed while watching the sunset!
As sunset is when mosquitoes (those tropical beasts!) get more active and seek to bite us humans, be sure to put on some bug spray. I did not feel mosquitoes bite me, and I had forgotten to put on bug spray. But Cambodia has malaria risk so I was glad I was on anti-malarial, at least…
Bring water. And there were no nearby facilities that I could see – but plenty of bushes! Hand sanitizer anyone?
Be ready to kick a football/soccer ball if the opportunity arises!

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Save this to your travel board for an off the beaten path Cambodia image. And a phenomenal sunset!

Filed Under: Asia, Cambodia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Cambodge, Cambodia, lake near Siem Reap, off the beaten path Cambodia, Siem Reap, sunset, sunset in Cambodia, Tonle Sap lake

Siem Reap – Cool Place in the Tropics

29 December 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

The plans for my visit to Cambodia were anchored, as you may well imagine, in seeing world-famous Angkor Wat. For that, we planned to spend 1.5 days and 2 nights to explore the town of Siem Reap which is just less than a few handful of miles from the historical sites. There are many many more temples to go explore and one can certainly spend 2-3 days just focused on that. A lot of things to see in and around Siem Reap! I felt I was more on a sampler visit due to the overall travel plans (anchored on a wedding in Bali) and the limited time off work but I was eager to see as much of the area as I could.

Paradise in Siem Reap

We arrived right in Siem Reap (very nice and modern small airport) from Bangkok after noon and headed to our hotel, the Borei Angkor Resort right in the town.

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Final approach (thanks to my bud Phil I. for the photo – he had the window seat!)

The hotel was a phenomenal spot as may be others. The spaces were very open. The pool was big enough and had a section with jets which were great after a lot of walking around the next day. And it helped that I stayed at the Privilege Floor 🙂 (Disclosure: No freebies, discounts, etc. were given to me for me to write about the place – I paid for it all myself and I write about it because I really enjoyed it.)

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Welcome!

The main lobby

Looking up from the pool

The pool…

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Not the fanciest of photos but it sure takes me back there!

Looking out from the front lobby to the hotel entrance

The staff was super eager to help and no one more so than our hostess, Judy, who ensured all the logistics of our sightseeing and the hotel stay were in order (everything was perfect!). We also enjoyed a server at the lounge who had a peculiar way of laughing and who called everyone “fabulous” though I could swear he called me “father” instead… He definitely made the place very lively!

View of the town from the room at sunset

In any case, we had decided not to hit the temples that first afternoon for a couple of reasons:

It would be peak heat and ‘suffering’ wasn’t high on the list of priorities…
People had said it was best to hit the sites at sunrise and then stay on-site through the morning, when some or many tourists would return to their hotels for breakfasts and/or extra sleep. (More on the visit to the temples in a future post.)

We quickly dropped our bags, changed, and headed to lounge by the pool for some nice R&R with some Angkor Wat beer 🙂 I think I ordered a sandwich or a pizza poolside for lunch – scary that I can’t fully recall. That was the way to start my Cambodia visit!

The local market in Siem Reap

We had planned to do a drive in the countryside later that first day – more about that in another post – but after that drive, as we were passing the local market, we decided to jump out and do a quick walk around of the market and that area of the town. I have to say it was definitely a chill place. While there were certainly tourist-oriented market stands and eateries (goodness, there was even a Hard Rock Café – yikes…), the market also served locals and it was neat to just meander through it seeing all sorts of goods from souvenirs to meat to household goods to clothing, etc. There was everything!

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Not the type of ‘meat market’ I’d hoped for 🙂

“Vienna Calling”, perhaps?

All sorts of goods from food & spices to textiles

Colorful town

The town felt lively and the colorful lighting on the bridges certainly contributed. Overall, I felt very safe and maybe, in hindsight, I should have explored more and sat down somewhere to watch life go by -plenty of things to see and experience in Siem Reap! But, sadly, I don’t always enjoy full clarity every moment of every trip. No worries, I still can say it was a neat place.

Around town – market on the left

Around town – maybe I should do that to the bridge in my backyard…

Around town – the fast lane!

What to Know

The heart of the town is very walkable and felt safe.
There are good eateries around the market – get a good recommendation from a trusted source, be it your hotel or an online review. You still want to keep your tummy in a happy state!
If you are looking for souvenirs, what you find in the market will be the same touristy stuff you will find elsewhere in the country – and at a slightly higher price since it is, after all, a very tourist-centric town.
Take your time, find a bench, watch life go by…

Filed Under: Asia, Cambodia, Travel Journal Tagged With: Borei Angkor Resort, Cambodia, experience Siem Reap, explore, exploring Siem Reap, local market, luxury, Siem Reap, things to do Siem Reap, travel

Visiting Temples in Bangkok – Wat Pho?

26 December 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

One of the neatest things for me about visiting Bangkok was seeing Buddhist temples everywhere. I am no student of their faith and much less of all the specifics of the architecture of these temples but they are impressive and that’s why I am glad I made the time for a stop -however brief- in Bangkok as I traveled between Bali and Cambodia. Time was short so we had to keep it only to the main temples in Bangkok (plus the one we visited during our bike tour of the countryside).

Once we finished our bike ride outside of Bangkok after lunch that day, we headed into the heart of Bangkok to visit Wat Arun and Wat Pho. (Be careful with this latter one as asking about it may lead your fellow traveler to think you are messing with him and almost earn you a fist to your face! Remember “Who is on first?“, etc. Yea, that.)

I will not try to tell you the story of these two places as there are plenty of resources out there for that. These temples are very colorful thanks to what seem to be porcelain tiles and mosaics everywhere. It is great to admire from a distance but getting up close allows one to see the details of the decorated exteriors. Also, know that these are the very abbreviated names for these temples (which are really each a temple complex on its own) – names there can be quite long!

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Ferry on the Chao Phraya River

Wat Arun – Temple of the Dawn

Wat Arun dates from the 17th century but the main towers one sees are much more recent. We started our temple visits by arriving here but crossing it quickly to get to the ferry to first visit Wat Pho on the other side of the river. Once we finished with Wat Pho, where we spent most of our time, we crossed the river back to check out Wat Arun.

Wat Arun temple complex

Greeted at the entrance by some warrior

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Sitting Buddhas

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Mosaic details

Around Wat Arun

The highlight for me happened rather unexpectedly. We walked into one of the temples. There was a monk sitting near a box where one could drop a coin and he would pray over you. Not certain how this all worked, I walked away to a donation box not close to him. As I walked back to the back of the temple, the monk called me over to him and signaled for me to sit on the floor. He proceeded to give me a blessing. Unbeknownst to me, my friend Phil started video’ing the whole thing and I ended up with a neat ‘souvenir’ from this random event!

The main temple

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Being blessed by a monk

Wat Pho – Where the Reclining Buddha is

The Reclining Buddha may be what makes this temple complex most famous but it is quite an impressive site. But first, the Reclining Buddha is not just napping – he has reached the ideal state and the posture signifies that (vs. a sitting Buddha or a standing Buddha). The Reclining Buddha is very long (46 m; 150 ft) and based on how it is housed within a building, one can’t just stand in front of it and capture it head to toes in a nice, clean photo. Which is kind of cool, come to think of it. This unique piece was built close to 200 years ago and it impresses.

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No easy way to photograph

Rather large feet

Good angle from the headrest down

But Wat Pho is much more than its famous resident statue. Pagodas (towers) built by different kings which house their own Buddhas and other parts related to the monastic complex are worth exploring (there are well laid out signs to explain to the visitor the complex and its contents). The ceramic tile-work on the roofs are different depending on the king or period in which the structures were built.

What to know

You can go way more off-the-beaten path than what we got to see. But these two are a must!
You can use ferries/boats up and down the river in Bangkok to move between the temples. No need to just suffer city traffic. Plus, at some point or another, you WILL need to cross the river!
Temples do close earlier than a tourist may expect. Know the times or use a local guide. We went for the latter as we didn’t have to think about anything plus he knew a few other things (like best photo spot at a given temple, etc.).
Temples are about someone’s faith. They ask that you do not wear shorts or sleeveless shirts. It was sad to see how many people showed either ignorance or disrespect. One doesn’t have to subscribe to the beliefs of the locals, but one should respect them. Yes, it is hot and humid. Wear a wicking t-shirt and some hiking pants that convert to shorts and one will be alright in that weather!

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Filed Under: Asia, Thailand, Travel Journal Tagged With: architecture, Bangkok, Buddha, Buddhist monk, colorful, photo, S7, Samsung Galaxy, temple, Thailand, Wat Arun, Wat Pho

Cycling around the Thai Countryside

19 December 2016 by Raul 1 Comment

One of my friends mentioned how in her time in Bangkok, she enjoyed bike rides in the countryside. As I mentioned in an earlier post, she also recommended visiting the unique railroad market by the Mae Klong rail station, about 1.5 hrs. outside of Bangkok. My friend and fellow traveler Phil and I agreed that it sounded like a great idea so I contacted the individual that had taken her to both places and arranged for the bike tour as well. We did not have a full day to spare so, unfortunately, the bike ride would only be about 2 hours. Nevertheless, it would allow us to see something much different than the city so we felt it was still going to be worth it.

After visiting the railroad market to see the 9AM train go by (we almost missed it!), we headed towards the Amphawa Floating Market (which, unfortunately, was closed that day) to begin our bike ride.

It had been a couple of years since my last bike ride (a bike tour in Buenos Aires that went flawlessly) so it took me some pedaling to re-learn balance and I had a couple of mishaps early on due to that (one of those more painful than the other…). I found my biking groove and, combined with fairly easy terrain, went forward with the bike tour for the next 1.5 hrs or so with no further issue.

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Awaiting the river crossing with our guide (photo courtesy of fellow traveler Phil I.)

About to cross the river on this beauty

Riding by farms and plantations

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Our guide in the lead, followed by me (photo courtesy of Phil I.)

Passing a bunch of empty coconut shells at one of the farms (photo courtesy of Phil I.)

Beautiful water (topped by some algae?) at one of the banana plantations

Love the shadow of a banana plant on the surface of the water

Bang Kung Camp

We made a stop at the Bang Kung camp which is a former navy camp from wars past (with Burma, I believe) dating from the late 1700s. The camp has statues depicting the fight training the soldiers went through. The camp also had a temple that was overcome with vegetation as the camp was abandoned for a couple of hundred of years (but is now open for the faithful – and bike-tourists!).

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Map showing the market, the floating market and the camp

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Outside of the temple; and our guide Andy and I taking a break (photo courtesy of Phil I.)

In front of the temple

Inside the temple

Training for a fight!

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I had to blow up one of the photos because one of the fighters looked life-like…

Statue honoring an important leader of the war with Burma

Along the way, a church

We pedaled mainly either on well-paved roads or minor side roads along coconut farms and banana plantations. It was all very serene and it was a very enjoyable, pleasant bike ride. Along the way we passed a Catholic church, not quite labeled that way, it was called Our Lady of Help Christion (sic) Church. It looked closed so we did not go in. I have to say it felt out of place but it was also cool to see!

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In front of the church with my fellow adventurer and much better cyclist

Lunch time!

The ride ended with a late lunch in a small restaurant perched on the river bank of the Mae Klong River, upstream from where we had started. And just as we got there, it started to pour! It was perfect timing, great food, and a cool setting to rest from the busy morning while enjoying more of the delicious Thai food (see my post on food in Bangkok!)

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View of the Mae Klong River from the restaurant

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Shrimp tempura and chicken curry – delicious

The bike tour was a phenomenal idea and a good change of tempo, especially as it got us out of the hustling, bustling city to see a beautiful countryside and breathe some fresh air – I need to be sure I always look for options like this in future travels!

What to Know

We hired Grasshopper Adventures for the bike tour (fully paid by us, no freebies given for me to mention them).
Wear your helmet. You are in the developing world and, should an accident happen (like it happened to me!), it is better to be safe than sorry when you may or may not get access to the medical care you are used to.
While it is hot and humid, it was very pleasant while on the bike.
You can do a short bike ride like we did or a day-long one.

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Filed Under: Asia, Thailand, Travel Journal Tagged With: Amphawa, Bang Kung, Bangkok, bike tour, countryside, food, Mae Klong, Thailand, travel

Bangkok – A City of Amazing Food!

5 December 2016 by Raul 1 Comment

Thailand is well-known for its diverse cuisine and great flavors. One does not have to have been to Thailand to know this or to experience the greatness of the cuisine. Enjoying the food was certainly one of the things I planned to do in my short visit to Thailand a few weeks ago. With guidance from a local on a street food tour we found two neat spots in Bangkok with incredible food and experiencing food the same way locals would too! Bangkok has great temples and other things to do (like exploring the countryside on a bike) but food may just rank as the top thing to do in Thailand for me!

Tuk tuk fun

Of course, getting there is half the fun so we took our first tuk tuk ride that night. It was a crammed space (there were three of us plus the drive plus our street food tour guide). Since the driver wove in and out of traffic (fairly safely in my opinion), the time to get to places was not as much as if we had taken a cab. A tuk tuk is definitely the way to go unless a little exhaust from cars around you bother you (in which case, you need a car so you can close the windows…).

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Fun and colorful rides

Of course, a selfie was required

Phenomenal seafood in Chinatown

The first spot was a seafood place in Bangkok’s Chinatown, named Lek and Rut Seafood. I enjoyed the sitting: at a street corner with a more important avenue, with plastic table, plastic chairs, and a plastic tablecloth right at the sidewalk’s edge.

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Corner in which Lek & Rut is located

The menu was quite extensive, the food was served quickly AND it was superb. That and a big bottle of beer (or two) (or three) and we were in business. We liked the setting, the vibe and the food so much we went back to it the next night!

Getting pad Thai’d !

Our second stop that first night was a place known for its pad Thai: Thipsamai on Maha Chai Rd. Basically, one stands in line past the cooking station set out on the sidewalk itself until one gets to the front of the line when a table opens up. Until 7PM, the only tables available are inside (a small space so the line is LONG and SLOW) and right in front of the restaurant’s storefront on the sidewalk. We got there right before 7PM and the line was long… I figured we’d be there forever. All of a sudden, the line sort of cleared and we found ourselves being walked to a table! Basically, at 7PM they can set out tables in front of neighboring storefronts, greatly expanding seating capacity. Phenomenal!!

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The extra seating area

One of the food prep areas

Waiting for the pad Thai

It is fascinating to watch the guys cook the pad Thai right there. They are masters of efficiency, focus and speed! (Check out the video to see them in motion.)

An army of cooks!

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Video courtesy of my fellow traveler Phil I. who wanted credit 🙂 Gracias!

Pad Thai – the final product!

What to Know

Street food is said to be very safe in Bangkok. We did not hold back and we were OK. Not promising you will have the same outcome but I felt comfortable and I am cautious when it comes to safe food in places I do not know (and even some that I DO know!).
Chinatown is worth exploring and sitting down somewhere. But there are likely many places in town to explore. We barely scratched the surface as our stay was too short but I certainly look forward to the day I can return and really expand my exploration of this great city.
Tuk tuks are a cheap and probably faster way to move around town. As long as you are OK with some exhaust around you (it wasn’t horrible but it may make a difference). I found the tuk tuk more fun than a regular taxi (though taxis with A/C are not a bad thing).
Thai food goes very well with a nice cold (and large) beer!

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Filed Under: Asia, Thailand, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bangkok, Chinatown, enjoying food in Bangkok, food, pad thai, street food in Bangkok, Thailand, travel, tuk tuk

A Unique Railroad Market in Thailand

1 December 2016 by Raul 2 Comments

As I was researching all that there was to do in Bangkok so I could narrow down the options to fit our time there, a friend who had spent a few weeks in Bangkok recently gave me an excellent pair of recommendations on what to do off-the-beaten path. Liz, my friend, suggested that she put me in touch with a local guide that had taken her outside of Bangkok for a day trip exploring the countryside and a peculiar market. We did not have a whole day to spare so I asked the local guide, Al, if it were possible to shrink the trip to half a day. Thankfully, it was doable despite the 1.5 hr ride each from and to the city. My fellow traveler, Phil, also thought it would be cool to get out of the city so I confirmed with Al that it was a go.

Both of Liz’ recommendations would take us to the Samut Songkhram province, just about southwest of Bangkok towards the sea. And the first of the two items on the agenda was to see the unique railroad market there by the Maeklong train station. We had to be there by a certain time to catch the train passing through the market but it looked like we were going to miss it by like 5-10 minutes; I was bummed but was accepting that it was just going to have to be this way. But, we got lucky! The train actually passed through like 5-10 minutes AFTER we arrived at the market.

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The Maeklong train station at the end of the market

The railroad tracks

Space is at a premium in this market and, as you can see in the pictures, the goods spill over just about to the railroad tracks. Shoppers -and tourists- walk within the railroad tracks to cross the market. The market in this part is a food market: vegetables, fruit, chicken, fish, crabs, etc. abound – and all look pretty darn fresh.

Keep at eye out on the baskets on the right when you watch the video below

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Lots of chicken

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Fresh crab

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Fresh squid

Announcements are made over loudspeakers (in Thai) to warn folks ahead of time that the train is approaching. I was wondering how these folks would clear out quickly; they barely seemed to be moving or noticing that the train was coming except for the folks closing the canopies that provide shade to the market. A couple of items on the ground were moved but most stayed put. I was unclear how well the train would clear the goods, especially the two baskets left between the tracks (you can see what happened in the video clip).

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Clearing the way for the train!

Then the train came. It was crawling as it crossed the market which made sense given the tight quarters around it (also, unbeknownst to me, the train station was at the far end of the market).

The train goes through the market

The slow speed allowed us to enjoy the moment. As soon as the train passed, canopies were opened again and things returned to normal! It was fascinating to see this place – here is a very amateur video showing the scene:

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Yep, it came that close! (Photo courtesy of my fellow traveler Phil I. – I crouched low taking video, he stayed standing for photos!)

What to Know

The train does not come through all the time. We aimed for the 9AM passing of the train; the next train that day was to be sometime around 11AM. I did not have to look up the timetable as we were being taken to see it but be sure you know that day when it will come through.
I would have, with more time, walked around more outside of the part of the market on the tracks. The area looked interesting.
If you plan well, combine doing the railroad market with visiting the Amphawa floating market which only opens certain days of the week. It is one of the more famous floating markets near Bangkok and, from everything I heard, well worth the visit. Unfortunately, we only had a full day to go see the railroad market and it happened to be on a day when the floating market was closed.

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Filed Under: Asia, Thailand, Travel Journal Tagged With: Bangkok, market, photo, railroad market, Samsung Galaxy S7, Samut Songkhram, Thailand, travel

Bali – Getting There Is (or Isn’t) Half the Fun

29 November 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

I arrived in Bali after a long journey that started in the U.S. (about 37 hours, to be more precise). The airfare to Asia was a steal at $750 from Chicago to Singapore round-trip with Delta, my main airline (so all the points counted towards status!), so after getting to Chicago and spending a couple of nights there with great friends, the journey began.

Chicago->Atlanta->Tokyo->Singapore was the outbound part of the trip. Yes, Atlanta was my first connection airport – for those of you who do not know, that is where I live! Oh, the irony: Had I started the itinerary from Atlanta, skipping the Chicago bit, my airfare would have been DOUBLE at $1,500! So it made good sense to save all that money and spend it DURING the trip 🙂 At least Delta upgraded me from Chicago to Atlanta…

The flight to Tokyo was just plain long and it seemed daunting as I looked at my itinerary. At 14 hrs., I think it is (and will likely remain) the longest flight I have taken. But between wine and, later, an Ambien, the flight did not feel as long. I did not sleep fitfully or for a long time but perhaps 5-6 hrs. of sleep was enough to break up the flight. That and a couple of movies and it really was not as bad as I expected.

The flight to Singapore was another eight hours. Mercifully, the connection time in Tokyo was short and with access to a Delta lounge (where, of course, we had to sample and cheer with sake!), it was no biggie.

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Sake time!

I don’t remember much about the flight to Singapore. I believe I slept an hour here or there. It is a bit of a blur. I may have watched a movie. Or two. Or none. <blur…>. We landed in Singapore at midnight local time (12 hrs. difference or so from my body’s time). We had to retrieve our luggage as the final leg to Bali was not part of the ticket to and from North America so the baggage was not checked through.

Gladly, at that time of the night, the airport is pretty empty and the counters of our next airline (JetStar, a low cost regional airline) were open through the night. So, we were able to quickly go through customs and turn in our luggage. We had 5.5 hours total in transit in Singapore but we were coming back at the end of the trip so no pressure to hire a cab to drive us around and show us the city (I was so tired that I likely would not have done that anyway…). So, we went off to find a lounge where we could shower and, hopefully, feel a little less worn from the journey. We also discovered the free leg/foot massage machines that dot the Singapore airport. I imagine that the massage was helpful in getting the blood circulating after so much time in the air!

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Singapore’s Changi was empty in the middle of the night

We were scheduled to land in Bali around 7:30AM. Hotel rooms are normally not available that early in the day for check-in. But my friend and I are ‘smurt’ (sic) so we were prepared for that. We had our pool gear (trunks, sunglasses, etc.) in our carry-on so we could leave our luggage with the bellhop upon arrival at the hotel (the W Resort in Seminyak) and head to the pool after grabbing breakfast!

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Approaching Denpasar (Bali)

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Final approach to Bali’s airport

Well, the hotel did deliver a super early check-in but the plan of record remained. We grabbed breakfast at the plentiful buffet and then proceeded to go enjoy the pool and several Bintang beers for the next few hours (mind you, as we watched U.S. election results stream in into our smartphones!). It was a great way to decompress from the journey, from work, etc. and connect with vacation mode!

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The view from my room included a great view of the pool area

Refreshing!!

While the journey to Bali was long and tiring, thank God, there were zero hiccups (delays, lost luggage, etc.), and few or no bumps during the flights. But the best part was the arrival and how it could not have been better set up for entering the R&R zone! And had I known how great the two weeks would be, I most certainly would NOT have regretted a single hour of the 37 it took to get there!

Filed Under: Asia, Bali, Indonesia, Travel Journal, Travel Stories Tagged With: Asia, Bali, Denpasar, Indonesia, landing, Seminyak, W Hotels

A Trip around Southeast Asia Is Born

26 November 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

This month I was able to spend two weeks on vacation traveling to Southeast Asia. Clearly, two weeks far from enough time in an area as diverse and rich in experiences as Southeast Asia but if I waited until I had ALL the time it merits, I may never get started. An opportunity arose a few months ago to travel there in November with a good friend, anchored on a wedding that was to take place in Bali. I had not taken a real vacation this year yet so I had the needed time off from work to go do it. It also happened to be a good moment at work to take the time off. As I discussed the possibility with my friend, it became clear we had similar interests whether it be in the things to explore, the way to travel (hotels, flights, etc.), and what we were hoping to get out of a vacation like this (R and R!).

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This is the picture of R&R!!

As usual, I opened a map to envision all the possible destinations outside of Bali. We opted to spend the bulk of the vacation in Bali since there were going to be pre- and post- wedding events but then the balance of the vacation had to be solved. I figured that if I never got to go back, there were two places I had to see: the Angkor Wat temple complex in Cambodia, and Bangkok (made famous by Murray Head with his one hit wonder in the 1980s!). We ended up doing those and adding Phnom Penh (Cambodia’s capital) and Singapore (our Asian entry/exit point in our travels) to the trip. We were flying around a bit so Phnom Penh we chose because we could just take a car and avoid a plane; but then also seeing the infamous killing fields of Pol Pot and the Genocide Museum were a strong draw as we felt they were memorials that we had to see to grasp better Cambodia’s past.

Thanks to websites like TripAdvisor and Kayak, doing research and planning was not too hard (this is not a sponsored post, lol!). The information in TripAdvisor was key in choosing hotels that fit what we were looking for (for example, a great property in Bali by the beach with a cool pool area). Kayak I find easiest to use to compare and contrast not just airfares but routes – I had to solve the sequence of our destinations by ensuring I could find direct flights at the time of the day we wanted to leave or arrive at a given destination. It all seems to have worked out well though at least one morning the departure was earlier than I really would have wanted – hindsight is 20-20, isn’t it?

The itinerary:

Bali: 5 days
Bangkok: 2 nights, 1 day (a FULL day!)
Cambodia: 3 nights, 3 days
Singapore: 2 nights, 1 day, and a few hours overnight at the airport
Delta airplane seat: tons of hours!

So, in the next few weeks, I will be writing about each of these destinations and my favorite things. A lot may have been on-the-beaten-path but there was some off-the-beaten-path that was spectacular and I can’t wait to write about it!

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Filed Under: Asia, Bali, Indonesia, Special Photos Tagged With: Asia, Bali, beach, Indonesia, photo, pool, resort, sunset, travel

Swayambhunath – A Special Place in Kathmandu

5 September 2016 by Raul 4 Comments

Kathmandu is an amazing city. Colorful and busy. Yet, somehow spirituality seems to permeate it. Among the many places that back that impression is the Swayambhunath site – also just known as the monkey site. I don’t know that it is technically a temple but it is certainly an important Buddhist religious site. Claims about when it was first established range from the 6th century A.D. to the 3rd B.C.! Let’s settle on “it’s old.”

Beauty everywhere

The site’s shrines and other structures dot the hillside and are packed at the hilltop. I wish I had had a guide to make sure I understood the meaning of the different types of structures and figures sculpted in them. Here is a glimpse of some of the sights on the site.

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Prayer wheels

The earthquake changed it

The many shrines and temple-like structures included more than you can see today. Sadly, the earthquake of April 2015 knocked down one of the two towers, and severely damaged the other one and many other structures. Yet, it seems many survived OK which is a blessing at such an important site.

The surviving tower

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The base of the collapsed tower

Damage from the earthquake

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Serious crack under the large stoupa with prayer wheels around it

Eye gotta stupa for you…

More impressive than anything else on the site is the stupa with the painted eyes on it. They follow you around… They are Buddha’s eyes and eyebrows… It is said it is over 1,500 years old though it has been renovated many times in its long life.

The eyes on the golden tower in the stoupa

See? They are watching you…

Monkeys R Us

But, the way I heard of this place for the first time was because of the monkeys. The many monkeys that reside on the place. Big and small, they are everywhere. Yet, much as they must be used to people, they were not climbing over folks. They were very well-behaved!

Baby monkeys – a fertile place!

Curious monkeys

Getting to view Kathmandu from up high

The site is located on a tall hill that offers great views of Kathmandu. The main approach is a rather long and steep set of steps on the east side of the hill. LOOOONG! (365 steps to be more precise) But, unbeknownst to me, our driver was taking us to a point that maybe was 2/3 of the way around the back so our climb was not as severe. Now, now, don’t be poking fun. I had just spent 5 days hiking on the Everest Base Camp trail so saving steps was relief of sorts…

Sweeping view of Kathmandu – and a passing bird!

I must say that though at first visiting a place full of monkeys did not thrill me, the place’s charm and the faith it represents was captivating. I enjoyed spending time there and would recommend taking the time to connect with this bit of Kathmandu!

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Filed Under: Asia, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: Asia, Buddhist, earthquake, faith, Kathmandu, monkey, Nepal, stoupa, Swayambhunath, temple, travel

Hiking in Nepal: To My Turning Point – Deboche (Day 4)

11 April 2016 by Raul Leave a Comment

After a restful and relaxing day in Namche Bazaar, it was time to hit the “road” on the trail to Everest Base Camp for the last leg of my trek before turning back. As I explained in an earlier post, I was shy a few days in my vacation bank so I would not be going all the way to Everest Base Camp on this trek, much to my chagrin. This day, day 4 of the trek, would take me past colorful and charming Tengboche with its beautiful monastery to super tiny Deboche. This day of hiking would take me to the highest altitude I would reach in this trek, a hundred or so meters under 4,000 m (or some hundred feet or two under 13,000 ft.), nothing terribly high in comparison to my climb of Kilimanjaro a couple of years before.

This day would start by us climbing up and out of the half bowl that is Namche Bazaar, past the interesting local history museums, and the great viewing point I described on the day 3 post. And we could also see in the distance the two hanging bridges we had crossed on our way to Namche Bazaar.

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Looking back at the spot from day 3 from here we saw Everest

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The hanging bridges that were so much fun to walk across

Then we skirted the side of some mountains on a beautiful and changing trail that offered us a new and closer view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse than the prior day’s. We walked past a stupa or chorten honoring the sherpas of Everest which, besides being a beautiful memorial to these individuals, made for a great foreground to the photo of Mounts Everest and Lhotse that I show below. A photo which, by the way, also shows my favorite mountain, Ama Dablam, on the right. This specific view may be the most beautiful view point of my entire trek. Surreal to the max!

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Headed towards the stupa with the best backdrop of the trek!

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Detail of the stupa honoring the sherpas, looking like a Himalayan wedding cake

Beautiful and colorful detail of the stupa

Later on we had the best view on this trail of my favorite mountain in the area: Ama Dablam. It looks like it is a person (a mother, perhaps?) with two extended arms covered by flowing robes, welcoming the trekker. Pretty darn majestic.

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Majestic and grandiose Ama Dablam

Of course, as we did every day a couple of times, we stopped for tea at a tea house. Mint tea or lemon tea – I could never decide which was my favorite. Sometimes one, sometimes the other. Both the tea and the rest were most welcome but also the time to soak in the landscape around us, the charming architecture of the local buildings simple yet full of color, and just to sit and chat with fellow trekkers while soaking some sun. A great way to recharge batteries and engrave the sights into my memory bank…

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I loved admiring typical Tibetan architecture during tea time and while walking the trail

Lemon tea, anyone? One or two glasses…

Typical outdoor area of a tea house with the universal plastic white chairs

The team guides and our lead guide discussed whether to make the push for Tengboche (which involved a serious climb) to have lunch there, or to stop short of the climb to have lunch and rest beforehand. They decided that we would eat lunch before the climb. I was torn. On the one hand, the sooner we got to Tengboche, the sooner the hardest part of the day would be behind us and then lunch would feel more lackadaisical (I am all for NOT procrastinating). I also would not be doing the hardest part of the hike on a full stomach if we had kept going before having lunch… But, on the other hand, it would delay eating lunch by a good bit. So, I didn’t mind whichever way they decided – I trusted they knew best what made the most sense for us as a group based on how we were doing – and perhaps other factors (weather?). In hindsight, having seen Tengboche, I think the spot by the water where we stopped for lunch was perfect for rest and recovery prior to the climb.

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Part of our lunch – soup and rice!

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Toilet in a very scenic place at lunch (you can thank me later for not putting a photo of the inside…)

Overall, that day we would cover about 4 miles (6.5 km) and we were expected to be on the trail for about 6.5 hours. The most exciting part of the day was when we came to the top of a slope to find ourselves on fairly flat ground looking at the Tibetan Tengboche Monastery through the foggy afternoon. It was not only a beautiful sight but very surreal. We walked up the steps hoping someone would come meet us and let us enter it as it looked totally dead to the world. And, sure enough, someone came to open the doors and invited us in.

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Entrance to the monastery (more pix on the next post)

Lots of color and detail

We entered the main prayer room but no photos allowed – and I respect that

You better follow these rules – especially no kiss!

Once we left the monastery, a short walk down from it, we stopped at a tea/coffee house (what else, of course!) before embarking on the short last hour (or less) to our stopping point for the night in Deboche. With the hardest part of the hike for the day over, it was very enjoyable to kick back and sip away! Ahh…

Once we got to Deboche, the teahouse was one of the sparsest, most austere of the teahouses I stayed at or visited in this trek. Being that we were at a higher altitude, it was colder too. The teahouse only had one tiny stove in the center of the dining/living room (as do most teahouses) which was not irradiating as much heat as most of us wished it had. I definitely stayed dressed more warmly, even through dinner, as I tried to keep by body heat in me. We sat around the room with tissues close at hand to dry our noses (a common condition at this altitude and climate) – and drank hot tea until it was time for dinner and the eventual turndown for the night, always a welcome moment to catch our rest!

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View towards the trail from our room in Deboche – very rustic spot

The rooms were basic but who needs more? Except heat…

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Yeah… heating was very limited and crowds formed around the stove

The evening was nothing short of frigid, frankly. There were two toilet rooms, one upstairs and one downstairs. But the one upstairs was a Western toilet with a tank that would not fill – so not flushable without a bucket of water. I found it more effort to flush it so, in the middle of the night, I would walk down the very steep staircase to the non-Western toilet room, though by doing so I had to walk further in the cold of the night and not only freeze but also wake up a little more because the journey took longer… The little journey was all indoors but, trust me, it was FRIGID; not sure there was much of a difference between inside and outside when it came to temperature. Thank goodness, I had the right sleepwear and, more importantly, the right sleeping bag to get back into a re-warm up!!

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Yeah, that’s our ice-covered window in the morning… Yes, it was THAT cold.

The next day, my direction would change: a few of us would be turning back to return to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu as our time on the trail to Everest Base Camp would end at Deboche… The next morning, as we got ready to leave, it was very hard to leave the rest of the group with whom we had spent the first few days on the hike (and the days before working to help build a school in the village of Kumari). It was a great group of people motivated by the desired to improve the lives of children in Nepal, and who enjoy travel, exploring, and the great outdoors. That next morning (day 5) we packed up, had breakfast, and went outside ready to go our separate ways. We posed for one picture which ended up, unfortunately, somewhat blurry and the five of us (one of these being our great guide, Chandra) began our journey back to Lukla to catch out flight to Kathmandu thus starting the end of our time on the amazing Everest Base Camp trail… While I did not go to Everest Base Camp, I got to experience the best of Nepal: the people, the architecture, the views and that was all well worth it.

Want to start at the beginning of this trek? Here is day 1. Want to know what else I did on this trip other than the hike on Everest Base Camp, check our work to build a school in Kumari here.

Pin this beautiful image to your board!

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The view on the way to Deboche via Tengboche: Mount Everest!

Filed Under: Asia, Hiking, Nepal, Travel Journal Tagged With: adventure, Ama Dablam, base camp, Deboche, Everest, going from Tengboche to Deboche, hiking, hiking to Deboche, Himalayas, monastery, mountains, nature, Nepal, outdoors, Tengboche, trekking

Hiking in Nepal: Namche Bazaar and a View of Everest (Day 3)

4 April 2016 by Raul 9 Comments

After the grueling climb to Namche Bazaar, it was REALLY nice to arrive at the Khumbu Lodge for a two-night stay as an acclimatization day for the group headed to Everest Base Camp. I liked the Khumbu Lodge as it had all the amenities I “longed for” (sounds so dramatic!) and the staff and service were great. I think the group as a whole liked it a lot. Good start to our time in Namche! (No, I did not get a free stay or perks for writing this. I, like my companions, really liked this lodge!)

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The Khumbu Lodge in the center of the photo

We sat in the dining room catching up on Internet-based things and rested before showering and getting ready for dinner. I loved the almost 270 degree view from the dining room and the spaciousness of the room.

Namche Bazaar from the dining room

Namche Bazaar is the most sizable town on the route to Everest Base Camp. It is nestled on the side of a mountain, carved on its sides sort of auditorium style. Its alleys are covered with steps and unevenness so one better pay attention – no smooth sidewalk in sight! (I exaggerate perhaps just a little…). Of course, it is loaded with souvenir shops but also all the practical places needed for life as a local and as a trekker (drug stores, food markets, coffee shops, etc.).

A typical ‘street’ in Namche Bazaar

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View over Namche Bazaar

Our schedule had us doing a short hike on the morning on day 3 to a point at the edge of the town, high up, with a fantastic view of Mt. Everest in the distance with Lhotse next to it (the world’s fourth tallest mountain). We spent a good bit of time on photos and just enjoying the beautiful spot and sunny day. The short hike was steep so it was a good warmup for day 4 when we would exit past that same point. There was a small museum at the top of the climb that was well worth the time to check out and learn more about the area.

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At the monument honoring Sherpa Tenzing Norgay

Everest on the left and Lhotse on the right

Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam on the right

Coming back down we made a stop at another local private museum, the Sherpa Culture Museum, at a place where Sir Edmund Hillary had camped on his way up and that he later visited a few times when a hotel was established. It had a neat collection of household items from the region and also a short movie as well as a souvenir shop (the other one was a public museum with no shop).

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Ticket to the Sherpa Culture Museum

Map on the Sherpa Museum ticket

Sherpa Culture Museum

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Typical Tibetan design in a window at Namche Bazaar

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Yep, this is the real thing. Good for burning in a stove…

Later that day, I was thrilled to discover Hermann Bakery where I ate a nice pastry and enjoyed a latte. Plus, we got to used a very fast Internet connection (that I could also tap from my hotel room!) which always makes me happy.

This last photo will be the image of Namche Bazaar that sticks with me forever – a gorgeous spot in the Himalayas!