hiking - ilivetotravel's travel log

Two Days Exploring Canyonlands, a Mighty Five National Park Powerhouse!

28 July 2024 by Raul 1 Comment

Canyonlands seems endless: truly a Mighty Five National Park! Along with Arches, Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Capital Reef, it is one of the Mighty 5 U.S. National Parks in Utah.

Canyonland National Park is located near Moab, Utah and not far from Arches National Park, it is far from from a major airport but certainly worth the effort. We spent two days exploring Canyonlands which was perfect in the context of our broader trip covering the Mighty Five.

Attacking Canyonlands: Island in the Sky District

The park is made of several districts with Island in the Sky being easily the most accessible and with a lot to offer to hikers and non-hikers alike. It was easy to spend two days and leave territory not-covered, even just in Island in the Sky. This district’s main roads are in the form of a “Y”. One enters on the top right of the Y, the only entrance/exit to this district (with a main paved road).

We had dedicated two days to Canyonlands, the second of the Mighty Five U.S. National Parks we were visiting on this hiking trip. We decided to split the visit as follows:

Day 1: The lower leg of the Y, starting by going all the way to the bottom and making our way back up (and out). On this day, we visited the following:
- Orange Cliffs Overlook facing the Green River
- Buck Canyon Overlook facing the Colorado River
- Grand View Point Overlook walking along the rim
- Murphy Trail.
Day 2: The upper part of the Y, starting at the far end of the left upper arm of the Y. These were all short hikes, easily accessible.
- Upheaval Dome
- Whale Rock
- Aztec Butte
- Mesa Arch
- Shafer Canyon Overlook.

Great VIew Point Overlook, Canyonlands National Park, Green River, Colorado River, Utah hiking, Orange Cliffs — Easily accessible Orange Cliffs Overlook view!

Grand View Point Overlook and a good intro to Canyonlands

After stopping at the Orange Cliffs and Buck Canyon Overlooks, we proceeded to Grand View Point Overlook. As we entered the trail, we happened upon a 10 AM outdoor park ranger talk. Very fortunate as I learned a lot about the major forces that shaped the terrain and created the multiple layers of different colors and compositions we see today.

Great VIew Point Overlook, Canyonlands National Park, Green River, Colorado River, Utah hiking

The trail to the overlook was a short and highly rewarding 1.8 mi walk along the canyon rim with little elevation gain though you are in an altitude of ~6,000 ft. There is a short rock climb to get to the best viewpoint – and great spot for photos!

Wrapping up day 1: Murphy Trail

Murphy Trail was going to be our strenuous hike on this day. Not because of the length, as it was not too long (a 4.5-mile hike), but because we started in the afternoon and it was one very hot day. On and it would be steep with an elevation gain of 1,109 ft. The initial part of the trail was a walk on a field that did not have much to say in its favor. But then we reached the edge and began the best part of this fun hike. The terrain included rock scrambles and the like, and the view was always breathtaking once we left the field.

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Once we got to the connector to the loop trail at the bottom, we stopped for lunch (at the “green” rock level) before beginning he hike back up to the rim. Though it was a very hot day, with good hydration and electrolytes, we did it safely and greatly enjoyed the hike: navigating the rocks, the descent/ascent, and the great vistas and rock formations.

Certainly, a few degrees cooler would have been nice. But the ice cold water awaiting for us in the cooler we had in the car felt like heaven as I poured it over my head and feet!

Upheaval Dome

Day 2 was not going to be the strenuous hike day, but a day full of moderate or easy relatively short hikes for us. Upheaval Dome was our first destination of the day.

There were two overlooks, the first of which was about halfway in. The trail, an in-and-out, was only only 1.3 miles but with 226 ft elevation gain. Not strenuous at all but providing a great vantage point to look at Upheaval Dome. It was unlike any sight we saw or were going to see during our time in the park. It was a circular hole, as in a volcano’s caldera or a crater, but inside there were massive, tilted rock formations of a greenish color.

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Whale Rock

Right by Upheaval Dome was Whale Rock. No explanation needed for its name… It is about a 0.8-mil trail roundtrip though we tooled around a little so maybe it was a mile for us. Elevation gain is 128 ft to the top. Not strenuous but has a steep spot that some may take slow. It offers a good view of Island in the Sky with little effort. Just because a trail is short it does not mean shoes with good traction are not necessary: always good to have them because of the sloped nature of some of the rocks one will walk on on trails like Whale Rock.

Aztec Butte

The walk to Aztec Butte was not that exciting but the climb to the top of the butte offered a nice challenge with a very steep rock face.

Right below the top are small “caves” that I imagine were used by people long ago. I read that they were used to store grains and other food.

The roundtrip is about 1.4 miles with 213 ft elevation gain (all when the butte is reached). Great views from the top.

And, no, no Aztecs lived in the area…

Mesa Arch

The combination of a short hike at 0.83 miles and the amazing structure of Mesa Arch make this a definite must-see. Only 102 ft elevation gain to boot so relatively easy. It does require, though, walking on rough terrain and stones. But, through the arch ones has a great view of the canyons below and the La Sal Mountains afar.

Canyonlands is a phenomenal place for all, hikers and non-hikers alike. The beauty of the canyons is outstanding. The Colorado and Green Rivers add to the scenery as they snake their way down the canyons. But what certainly caught my eye was the variety of colors across the many layers of rock exposed for us to see!

Filed Under: Hiking, Hiking, Norteamérica, Travel Journal, US & Canada, US & Canada, Utah, Utah, Utah Tagged With: canyon view, hiking, mighty five, national parks, outdoors, Utah

A Day in Arches, One of the Mighty Five National Parks

20 July 2024 by Raul 2 Comments

In June 2024 I spent a day in Arches National Park as part of an 8-day hiking trip along the “Mighty Five” U.S. National Parks in Utah. Arches is one of the most iconic and recognizable of the National Parks, a great system of parks and preservation of the beautiful nature available to anyone who lives or visits the U.S. (Throughout my trek across the Mighty 5, I was struck by how many Europeans were out visiting all these gems of nature.)

The park has many viewpoints, short walks, and longer/more difficult hikes such as Devils Garden, Fiery Furnace and Delicate Arch. It offers a scenic drive past many of the viewpoints so one can enjoy the amazing terrain and cool rock formations (the one that I call “Nefertiti” being my favorite!).

Devils Garden Trail

My trip to Utah’s National Parks focused on hiking, first and foremost. So, in reviewing the options, Devils Garden Trail was a clear must-do. This trail is a 7.8 mi loop; it passes many of the arches worth seeing at Arches National Park. However, as I researched the park and this trail in particular, I learned that the eastern side of the loop is a lot rougher and has fewer of the sights while adding considerable distance.

In fact, of the eight arches on this loop trail, seven can be accessed from the Double O Arch Trail (see below), a subset of the loop trail so the decision was very easy to make. To maximize our day and see other sights in the park after the main hike, we opted to skip the eastern part of the loop and just do the Landscape and Double O Arches route. Doing this shortened the hike to 4.25 miles while not short-changing seeing the most beautiful parts of the loop.

Hiking just to Landscape Arch

Landscape is the longest arch in North America; it spans about 306 ft but at its narrowest point, it may be about 6 ft wide. I wish one could get closer but the area around it is off-limits (probably for good reason). This arch feels so fragile when you look at it! Hiking to Landscape Arch takes about 1.9 mi roundtrip (with about 250 ft elevation gain). It is not hard, but still requires a little effort (bring water no matter how short the trail is).

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landscape arch, day in arches, arches national park, hiking in utah, alltrails — The photo does NOT do it justice

Landscape Arch has many visitors since it is fairly accessible; so this part of the Double O Arch Trail is more crowded. Thankfully, after Landscape Arch, the trail becomes much less crowded.

Double O Arch Trail (past Landscape Arch)

As I mentioned, this trail is about 4.25 mi roundtrip (with an elevation gain of about 680 ft) including passing Landscape Arch. This trail presents some fun challenges that could be intimidating for anyone with a fear of heights as there are a couple of narrow spots. Also, there are some steep-ish rock climbs uphill past Landscape Arch. I enjoyed walking on a fin as part of this hike. At no point did I feel unsafe on the rocks or terrain.

double o arch trail, arches national park, day in arches, alltrails, visit utah, hiking in utah — Walking up & down rocks was fun and not that hard

The vistas from the trail are phenomenal and the big reward is the imposing Double O Arch. Definitely a cool spot.

We decided to not make any of the small detours to see the other arches on the way in and to leave those for the return back to the trailhead. A good idea to break the monotony of seeing something you already walked past on the “out” part of the in-and-out!

Double O arch, arches national park, day in arches, hiking in utah, visit utah, alltrails — From afar; looks better from up front

It is allowed to climb on to the base of the lower arch for great photo opps but not atop either arch. (Often there is a sign indicating climbing them is not allowed.)

On to the Dark Angel

From the Double O Arch one can continue to the Dark Angel, adding perhaps 0.8 mi roundtrip. We were not sure exactly what it was, and started on the trail. We got close to the halfway point and decided the trail did not look interesting. Plus, we could see the Dark Angel “column” from afar (and realized we had seen it in the distance from the Double O Arch already).

dark angel, arches national park, day in arches, hiking in utah, visit utah, alltrails — That is the Dark Angel “column”

It was very hot and we wanted to spend time elsewhere in the part so we turned around. My recommendation: time is better spent in other parts of this trail or the park itself. It was cool to see the Double O Arch from the other side so not a bad thing!

Black Arch

We saw the Black Arch from afar and high up. While we did not reach it, this viewpoint offered many chances for clowning-around photos that I won’t bore you with!

Navajo Arch

Navajo Arch was pretty cool and a little different than the other arches. You can walk right under it. It is unusual that there is not a view through it. A little more of secluded cave-like spot.

Partition Arch

I liked the views from Partition Arch, the breeze, and the chance for good photos of the view and of climbing (or trying to) around on the base of the arch. I may update later to add a photo!

Pine Tree Arch

Pine Tree Arch felt like a window out to the landscape behind it. A massive rock with a hole, it was the least interesting (structurally speaking) of the arches on the trail. Landscape and Double O were the most interesting in that regard with Navajo and Partition coming right behind them.

Skyline Arch

The Skyline Arch was not on the Double O Trail but was at a stop along the drive. It was far enough away on a trail that, by itself, did not seem to offer much. So we just took a look at the arch, nodded, and returned to the car (remember, we had done already Double O Trail + 1.5 mi towards/back from Dark Angel AND we were planning on a sunset hike).

Sand Dune Trail

Another cool arch along the scenic drive (so not on Double O Trail) is Sand Dune Arch. It is a very easy walk from the parking lot and just different than anything else in Arches National Park.

Cool Rock Formations at Arches

The drive afforded so many great views. Here are just a few, including Balanced Rock (one the most famous spots in the park) and my “Nefertiti”.

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cool rock formations, day in arches, arches national park, visit utah, hiking in utah, day in arches, balanced rock

Ending a Day in Arches: Delicate Arch

Leaving the best for the end (of this post and of this day!) of this day in Arches NP … The plan had been, due to the high heat, to do the main hiking early and then visit the various viewpoints and short walks afterwards. But part of the plan was to see the huge and impressive Delicate Arch at the best time of day to see it: sunset.

Of course, this is well-known and the 3.2 mi roundtrip trail will not be empty nor will the viewpoint at the top. However, it was not annoyingly crowded (it is not an easy hike with an elevation gain of 629 ft so maybe fewer people attempt it). The only time to mind the “crowd” is when everyone is getting their photo under the arch but even that did not require a long wait time.

Delicate Arch at sunset, arches national park, day in arches, visit utah, hiking in utah — Before the peak of sunset

The colors, not only of the arch, but of the sky and terrain around at sunset were out of this world! Sitting up there, wind blowing, looking at the natural beauty all around was one of the best experiences of my trek across Utah!

Getting to Arches National Park

We opted to fly in and out of Las Vegas, though it is 6.5 hrs from Moab, Utah because of the availability of flight options, cheaper flights, and that it would be 2.5 hrs or so from our end point (Springdale, UT).

The town of Moab is the closest to the National Park. Since we were also going to spend time in Canyonlands National Park, Moab made great sense. The town also has a lot to offer in terms of options of places to stay, eat and shop. We rented an AirB&B south of town and enjoyed having easy access to grocery stores so we could cook dinners.

Filed Under: Hiking, Hiking, Travel Journal, US & Canada, US & Canada, Utah, Utah Tagged With: adventure, arches national park, delicate arch, double o arch, hiking, Utah

11 Places to See on the Oregon Coast

2 September 2020 by Raul Leave a Comment

The Oregon coast stretches for over 360 miles (580 km) facing the mighty Pacific Ocean. To drive along the coast non-stop would take approximately seven hours on U.S. Route 101. Of course, stops are likely and recommended to plan well! We did the top third on one day, and the remaining on a second day.

Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, Cape Sebastian, rock formations, great drive

Background on Oregon’s coast

The Oregon coast, as much of the Pacific coast of the United States, was first explored by the Spanish. Soon, thereafter the British (like Cook or Vancouver) also explored the Pacific Northwest coast. Most notably, the Lewis and Clark expedition got to the northwest corner of Oregon near Astoria.

The entire coast of Oregon is public land. Some technical terms define exactly how far from the water but the point is that all waterfront is public land and available for public use (while allowing for easements for coast-facing property owners).

This means that one can uninterruptedly explore the coast with its many features: beaches, rocky terrain, lighthouses, capes, historical sites, etc. There is a great variety of features dotting the coast allowing for a good number of activities for every taste (beach, hiking, small-town exploring, kite flying, water sports, fishing, and on and on).

There are different characteristics of the coast.

The northern segment is more likely to have longer, uninterrupted beaches. Cannon Beach and Tillamook would fall under this northern segment.
As you move further south, more small cliffs and terraces appear. Small neat towns like Yachats are part of this central coast adding more charm.
The southern part is more hilly so the cliffs and capes are taller. There are also beaches but they did not seem as vast as the northern ones. And sand dunes make their appearance in this section. Bandon and Coos Bay are some of the towns in this area.

Rocky outcrops dote the entire coastline, making it reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road in Australia near Melbourne. Sunset along the coast, needless to say, offers spectacular scenes and great photo opportunities.

What to see along Oregon’s coast

Here are some key spots to not miss among the many available. The list is presented in a north-to-south order, not in an order of preference!

#1 Cannon Beach

As expanded upon in a separate post in this blog, Cannon Beach is a must-see. It is expansive and easy to access from the town (steps away, literally!). Check out the blog post for a suggestion of what to do intown other than the beach that everyone checks out!

#2 Tillamook

Tillamook is a town near the coast. While it is on the water, it is actually a bay. It is a town of about 5,000 sporting an air museum and the Tillamook Creamery which can be visited. We did not make these stops as we had landed on the west coast around noon and had spent time in Cannon Beach and still had a long drive to get to the Willamette Valley for the evening.

#3 Munson Creek Falls

Right after passing Tillamook, for those wanting a little non-beach activity and beautiful nature, the Munson Creek Falls are easily accessible from U.S. Route 101 and a quarter mile short walk to get to them. The dense greenery makes a lot of sense given the high level of moisture of a coastal region. The trail to the waterfall starts at a small parking lot but the final bit of the trail happened to be close so we were not able to get up close-and-personal with the waterfall. Still, a nice break with lots of fresh air for our first travel day.

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#4 Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint

There are many places to pull off the road or official viewpoints. The Boiler Bay stop, just north of Devil’s Punch Bowl, is one of the nicest in terms of the views it offers up the coast, but also because it is expansive, has tons of parking, and has restroom facilities. A nice place to stop and have lunch, stretch the legs, or shoot some good photos.

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#5 Devil’s Punch Bowl at Otter Rock

This amazing rock feature is easily reached but on a busy weekend day, good luck finding parking! The parking not only serves visitors who want to see the bowl but also those wanting to visit the local shops or head down to the amazing beach. Still it is worth the trouble. You can admire the bowl and follow a short trail that sort of is an overlook onto the beach right south of it. At the right time of the year (March/April, I understand), whale-watching may also be possible from there.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations, Devil Punch Bowl

#6 Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Continuing on south, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse (the tallest on the coast) is a great spot to stop and explore. When we went, we were not able to drive up to the parking area by the lighthouse itself but had to park up the road and undertake a walk that was not unpleasant.

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By the lighthouse you can walk to decks along the cliff to get closer to the water. Access to the ‘beach’ was closed, not sure why (Covid gives a great cover to change a few things…). But we were close enough at the lowest deck while also getting a better look at the birds nesting on the rocks. I also recommend reading the signs explaining a few topics, especially how looking at the cliff-side and the rocks shows you how much time a particular level spends underwater as the tide comes and goes.

Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations, Oregon lighthouse

The lighthouse was off limits but I don’t think that was Covid but, rather, repairs that were underway. Again, signs explain how the area and life there were in its very early days. Really interesting life those folks led! As with many lighthouses, they are now automated and the full-time lighthouse operator is no longer the human who tended to live a very isolated life in those locales.

#7 Yachats

The small town of Yachats is one of the more picturesque of the towns I got to see along the coast. It is a great stop to have lunch near the water (even if not facing it) and perhaps shop around at the local market (can’t quite call it a supermarket though it has just about everything one needs) or the stores around the heart of the town. Yachats is the entry point (at least in this direction) to the next area worth exploring….

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, Yachats

#8 Cape Perpetua

Cape Perpetua (visited and named by James Cook in 1778) is not just a cape point but a broader area. The day use area offers great views. The beaches around are expansive. Thor’s Well is one of the many interesting features to explore. Campgrounds and walking/hiking trails offer more than just views. In other words, plenty of things to see and places to soak the beauty of the Oregon coast in. Before my trip I read somewhere that is the quintessential coast of Oregon everyone thinks of when they talk about how beautiful the Pacific coast is. Agreed!

Cape Perpetua, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, cliffs, rock formations

#9 Oregon Sand Dunes

I never fully figured out the best spot(s) to view and enjoy the sand dunes of Oregon but everything I had read spoke about the amazing dunes of Oregon. Clearly, I needed to have done more research – or have better luck on the road! I had supposed it was one park with a nice brown sign along the road pointing to where to go. Well, it seems the area is so expansive that it is not just “one” spot. In any case, do your homework on these if you are interested. Know that you will see some sand dunes along the way all the way into California though perhaps not the most impressive part.

Oregon, Oregon coast, Pacific coast, beaches, great drive, Oregon sand dunes

#10 Cape Sebastian

Cape Sebastian has multiple places to explore but the south parking offered, in my opinion, one of the best vantage points to see up and down the coast. I read it was just about 50 miles up and down of views from about 200 feet high! Truly stunning.

hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, nature, adventure in Oregon — View from the north parking lot viewpoint

hiking in Oregon, Oregon coast, Cape Sebastian, adventure in Oregon, Hunter's Cove, Myers Creek Beach — View from the trail off the south parking looking south towards Myers Creek beach

We were running behind schedule so we limited our walk on the trail off the parking lot but it was a fun, vegetation-covered trail on the segment we did.

#11 Myers Creek Beach

Right after getting down from Cape Sebastian and hopping on the 101, there are a couple of viewpoint stops to admire the beach and rock formations and, in our visit, the setting sun and its great light for photos. We stopped at the second one, the Myers Creek Beach viewpoint, closer down to the beach level though not quite there. The sand looked like small sand dunes with the shadows they cast. I figure whichever stop along the coast you make while the sun is setting may be your favorite stop. I think Cape Sebastian and this stop, therefore, may be my favorite of the entire coast!

Myers Creek Beach, Oregon sunset, sand dunes, Oregon beach, Pacific coast, route 101, Cape Sebastian

Hope you get to explore the Oregon coast someday and certainly do not limit yourself to this list – there is more than I could cover and more for every taste / preference!

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Filed Under: Great Drives, Oregon Tagged With: beach, great drives, hiking, hiking in Oregon, Oregon, Pacific coast highway, Pacific Northwest

Hiking Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

15 February 2020 by Raul 4 Comments

Just when I think I have explored a good bit of hiking trails near Atlanta, last weekend a pleasant surprise awaited me: Arabia Mountain National Heritage Area. Right outside of Atlanta, right by the town of Lithonia is a series of trails that span a good bit, anchored by Arabia Mountain.

If you have ever heard of Stone Mountain, imagine a smaller sibling of that large single granite rock outcrop in the flatter land around and that is Arabia Mountain.

The “ascent” to the top of Arabia Mountain

Standing at 955 ft, Arabia Mountain is a little more than half the altitude of Stone Mountain. Maybe not as impressive as Stone Mountain but I was pleasantly surprised as I hiked 2 miles+ to get to its base on a cold and gray winter Saturday afternoon. The slope is gentle and relatively easy. The path up is marked with small stone towers that fit in with the landscape.

At the top, there are pools of water perhaps mainly due to recent rains and lots of moss and delicate vegetation. While it was not the best day for views, I rather prefer days with cloud coverage and a slight chill in the air for my hikes. The only bad thing about choosing that day to go up was that the view was limited and we could not see too far beyond the near vicinity of the area.

Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta — At the summit

Hiking around the lake at Arabia Mountain

After descending, we decided to do a loop around the lake at the base of the mountain. It was a neat trail looking at the lake and the rock of the mountain behind it.

After completing the non-mountain side of the lake, we stepped onto the mountain walking along its lower edge along the opposite side of the lake. It was not the most comfortable walk as our feet were not horizontal and it was slippery from the rain but it was sort of fun.

Hiking in Atlanta, hiking Arabia Mountain

The lake area felt pristine and the path was mostly a nature trail so that was a real treat.

Our approach to get to Arabia Mountain

There is a parking lot right at the base of Arabia Mountain for those not as inclined to make a longer hike.

However, as I mentioned, this is all part of a larger network of trails that cross Dekalb and Rockdale counties from Lithonia all the way to the Monastery of the Holy Spirit.

While not our original plan, we were quite pleased at how things turned out. We ended up in one of the parking areas near the mountain but not the one at its base or the next closest one.

Instead, we parked near Vaughters farm, about 2 miles from the mountain. The trail began on a paved path (why do they insist on concreting trails…) along the fields of the Vaughters farm. It took me back to my days doing the Camino de Santiago. Rolling hills of green surrounded by forests until a mile later, when we hit the Davidson-Arabia Mountain Nature Center. Another mile took us to the Arabia Mountain trailhead which also house a wildlife center.

Vaughters Farm in near Arabia Mountain Park in Dekalb County, near Atlanta, Georgia

Trailhead to Arabia Mountain, hiking near Atlanta, Georgia — Trailhead at Vaughters farm. Windy little path…

Of course, the walk back to Vaughters farm was 2 miles but enjoying the landscape around was very rewarding even if the rolling hills were getting to me on the last mile of my 7.5 mile hike (which took 2 hours and 40 minutes)…

hiking near Arabia Mountain near Atlanta

To get to Arabia Mountain just go on I-20 East from downtown Atlanta (maybe 40 mins with good traffic?), well past I-285 to exit 74. As a reference, Arabia Mountain is southwest of Stonecrest Mall, if you are familiar with the area.

Filed Under: Georgia, Georgia, Hiking, Travel Journal Tagged With: Atlanta, hiking

Back to Trek in Patagonia | Chile

4 February 2015 by Raul 10 Comments

Soon, I will be headed on another travel adventure. This one will be another trekking adventure with Trekking for Kids (TFK). With TFK, I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, hiked the Transylvanian Alps in Romania, and “pilgrimaged” on the Camino de Santiago in Spain. I am thrilled because I get to return to a part of the world that is remote, pristine, and with which I fell in love the first time I went in 2010, to have an adventure: a trek in Patagonia. No, not the store but the southern part of the continent of South America.

Beginning of the adventure: Buenos Aires

The trip begins in Buenos Aires, Argentina. OK, it really begins at the Atlanta airport but that’s just a technicality. I will spend a few days in the Argentine capital working with two local children’s home that are benefiting from our TFK trek. Each trekker has fundraised so we can fund the work being done to the children homes. It is really exciting to be able to spend some of my vacation on such a wonderful effort.

I am lucky to have visited Buenos Aires a couple of times and it is a great city. I always enjoy getting to experience this magnificent and lively metropolis, no matter how much time I get to be there!

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ilivetotravel in Buenos Aires MANY moons ago!

A detour before I begin…

I decided to take advantage of having some flexibility and will arrive in Buenos Aires a couple of days early. The goal is to head over to a lesser-known jewel in neighboring Uruguay: a colonial charming town appropriately named Colonia del Sacramento. Colonia, as it is commonly referred to, is mentioned in the book 1,000 Places to See before You Die. Not planning on dying anytime soon but better safe than sorry, no? 🙂 Colonia is an open-air “museum” of vintage cars (something I only discovered when I went).

Starting the trek in Argentina’s Patagonia

After the work with the children’s homes in Buenos Aires, we will fly down to the town of El Calafate on the Argentine side of Patagonia. From there we will hike around the iconic Fitz Roy peak and its siblings, and visit the famous and imposing Perito Moreno glacier.

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Note the size of the glacier when compared to the boat in the red circle on the upper right

Onward to Chile

After visiting the glacier park, we will transfer the next day to Puerto Natales, the Chilean town that is the real gateway to the wildness and beauty of Patagonia (I like the Chilean side better!).

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At the waterfront in Puerto Natales, gateway to glacier boat tours (from my 2010 visit)

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Example of the local architecture in Puerto Natales

The route for our trek in Patagonia: the W Circuit

I stayed in Puerto Natales when I visited in 2010 and there is something about its remoteness, its simplicity that was very appealing to me. From there, we will launch our trek to the impressive Torres del Paine, surrounded by lakes and glaciers. Our route is the typical route to trek there – it is called the “W” route. Take a look at the map (with the route in red) and you will see where the name comes from!

W circuit, Patagonia, Chile, Torres del Paine, hiking, trekking, glacier, lake, Pehoe, Grey, Nordenskjold, map

The W circuit

I am thrilled at this upcoming adventure and have tons to do to prepare. I also wonder if I am physically ready enough as I will be needing to carry about 30 lbs on my back – a first for me in any of my hikes. Wish me luck on my trek in Patagonia and stay tuned for future write-ups on the experience!

After I concluded the trek in Patagonia described before it happened above, I have written extensively about the experience. Read more here!

Day 1 of the trek in Patagonia (W Circuit)
Day 2 of the trek in Patagonia (W Circuit)
Day 3 of the trek in Patagonia (W Circuit)
Day 4 of the trek in Patagonia (W Circuit)
Day 5 of the trek in Patagonia (W Circuit)
Puerto Natales, entryway to the Torres del Paine

Other hikes around the world that may be of interest:

Filed Under: Argentina, Hiking, Patagonia, South America Tagged With: argentina, Buenos Aires, Chile, glacier, hiking, Perito Moreno, Puerto Natales, torres del paine, trek in Patagonia, Trekking for Kids, W circuit

Descending from Kilimanjaro’s Summit | Kilimanjaro Day 6 and 7

23 April 2013 by Raul 34 Comments

Descending from Kilimanjaro’s summit, Uhuru Peak – the roof of Africa, began around 20-30 minutes after we had arrived at the summit. Such is the story of ascending Kilimanjaro for many. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if you could picnic up there or, at least, at Stella Point and soak in the achievement taking it all in??

Yes, it sure would be nice. Except the thin air would begin doing a number (a deadly number, potentially) on most people so it is not recommended. Being well-led, we began the descent from the summit of Kilimanjaro as soon as all the picture-taking at the summit was completed. All sorts of photos with the famous sign (since replaced from the one in my pics): individual photos, group photos, and best friends/couples photos. Our group and everyone else who had shown up at the summit at that time competed for the real estate in front of the sign but, it was orderly and people were considerate of those waiting. And those waiting were happy to have made it there so they were patient. All-around feel good moment for everyone on top of this massive rock!

Outline of the descent of Kilimanjaro

As I wrote this post, I struggled with what to name the post as I had been using “day X” in every post leading up to this moment in the hike. How should I count the days to properly cover the descent? I chose day 6 and 7 based on how things took place for the final push to the summit and the ensuing descent:

On day 5, we arrived at base camp in the early afternoon.
At midnight, or the very start of day 6, we left base camp to start the ascent towards the summit, Uhuru Peak.
In the early morning, we arrived at the summit.
Then, we started the descent from Kilimanjaro’s summit – still day 6.
The descent went on until we got to the final camp where we would stay at during this climb, Mweka Camp.
On day 7, we left Mweka Camp for the final stage of the entire adventure to get off the mountain.

So, this post covers the full descent – from leaving the summit until leaving the mountain, hence “Day 6 and 7” on the title.

How long does it take to come down Kilimanjaro?

In total, coming down from the summit was a process that would take us about eight hours that day 6. YES, that SAME day we had just walked up 8 hours without a full night’s sleep to each the summit.

Plus, add 3 to 4 hours the next day (day 7).

Think about it: 5 days and 8 hours to ascend to the summit but about 12 hours to come back down all the way.

In reality, altitude issue aside, Kilimanjaro can be climbed within a day or two if you are fit enough (like, you had been at the summit the day before!). But altitude acclimatization (and common sense to combat a Darwin award nomination) requires time if one wants not just to make it to the top, but to survive the experience to be able to tell (or blog!) about it.

Descending from Kilimanjaro’s summit is a bit like skiing

We passed Stella Point again on the way down but, this time, without much fanfare – or picture-taking; a case of been there, done that. We were now on a mission to lose altitude quickly and stop the brain cells from dying. And our guides REALLY meant “quickly”!! I had not been prepared for what came next (I probably missed the explanation during the prep talk the night before, a nightly thing with our guide to ready us for the following day).

We supposedly had crossed a field of scree (small pebbles) on the ascent (I mentioned not remembering that part; or perhaps there was another path up without scree? I doubt we walked on scree on the way up). Well, it was time to come DOWN the field of scree whether we had gone on it before or not. I was very unprepared on what technique was required here to succeed without injury. All I knew is that it was like skiing except you had to watch out to not pop out a knee (a terrifying thought, really).

So I began to walk down the scree, putting one foot down, using my hiking pole to stop its slide (as you step on the scree it shifts down, taking your footing with it), then moving the other foot and repeating the process. Well, this was taking quite a bit of time and other trekkers were passing me fast. After maybe five minutes of this, the same guide who had carried my daypack on summit night locked arms with me and proceeded to take me down the scree. Drive me down maybe is more like it. It was an exhilarating and scary ride!! We were going very fast and we were mainly sliding downhill, much as you would do when skiing.

At any given moment, either of us would lose his balance but Said, the guide, would ensure neither one of us fell. That continued to be true pretty much for the next 3 hours. With the exception of certain patches where there were rocks and the sliding paused for a stretch. The only people moving faster down that field was a trio consisting of a guide and two trekkers (husband and wife). One of them had begun to have severe nausea. So the other two were on either side of the trekker taking her down the mountain STAT in case it was a symptom of something worse. Thankfully, it was not and she was fine by the time we got to base camp for our lunch stop. They flew past us and continued the high-speed scree-field crossing at that very fast pace.

I have never experienced this mix of thrill and almost-panic at the same time. Looking back, it was rather fun and there was no risk to my knees – unless I had suffered a spectacular fall. If I were to do it again, I think I would see it as something fun and highly recommend you go with that perspective.

Our approach to Barafu Camp

Read more what about preceded descending from Kilimanjaro’s summit!

Want to start on day 1 of this hike? Start the series here.
Back to the night we climbed the summit? Click here.
Read about what to wear during this trek here.
And, check out the top 14 items to take on this hike here.

Coming down Kilimanjaro: a break at Barafu Camp, just a break

Soon enough we sighted Barafu Camp from where we had departed not quite 12 hours before. A break was coming! This was where we were going to have lunch, change out of the warm clothes we had worn for the ascent, replenish water bottles, etc. There was a little delay in the lunch being prepared so the stop was about an hour longer than expected. No complaints from me…

On my way down the scree, based on the drama of the descent, I failed to pay attention to my feet and two-thirds of the way down, I realized I had a blister and was at risk of acquiring two more. I stopped, got some duct tape, and took care of the potential blisters-to-be, as I learned from the Trekking for Kids lead when I hiked in Romania last summer. Duct tape over a burning sensation anywhere on the feet helps prevent further development of a blister – if caught on time.

Once I was at camp, a fellow trekker had some magical thing she had bought at REI and she SO kindly took care of fixing the blister I had developed. Whatever it is she had gotten at REI worked like magic (I have never had to use moleskin before but she said this was better). The remainder of the hike after lunch, I did not even feel my blister!! I felt awful a fellow trekker had to deal with my dirty feet but she said she sees worse every day at her job: she is a dental hygienist! Plus my feet don’t smell… 🙂

Taking care of a blister earned while climbing Kilimanjaro

Thanks, Melanie!!

Should I stay or should I go?

Though we were tired, we had to keep going to reach our camp for the evening: Mweka Camp. Mweka Camp is named for being the first camp on the same-named route for those who enter the Kilimanjaro through the Mweka Gate. Some were asking why we could not stay in Barafu that night and get some well-deserved rest. I was quite happy not staying for several reasons. Here are the reasons that I was OK not staying in the Barafu Camp:

We had arrived before noon. Staying would represent a loss of an entire afternoon of moving and getting closer to exit the mountain. While I needed rest, I figured we could knock out some distance.
Getting to a lower camp than Barafu meant that day 7, the last day on the mountain, would be a short one. A downhill hike of 3 or 4 hours and – bam! – off to the hotel, a great lunch, and most important: the first shower in a week!
But my most important reason not to want to stay at Barafu Camp was that I hated its inhospitable environment, being so rocky and so dusty. The latter bothered most of us the most. I was done with the dust. And didn’t want to have a fall like I almost had suffered the day before when I tripped on a tent cable while minding the uneven rock terrain I was trying to navigate.

So I was quite happy with moving on. If I had only known what was coming our way, I may have held a different opinion…

From Barafu Camp to Mweka Camp: a rocky road…

Pretty quickly after leaving Barafu Camp the second part of our descent from Kilimanjaro’s summit on day 6 became a nightmare of sorts. Though the views were great most of the time, the terrain was so rocky that you had to navigate carefully (at least for those of us not super experienced) and you could not really enjoy the vistas. Some of us started feeling that our knees were being hit hard (read: pummeled) and had to slow down some. My legs were extremely tired at this point. And my knees, though not hurting yet, were wearing out with every step.

The rocky way down that never seemed to end

A glimmer of hope!

After a couple of hours or more, we saw in the distance a colorful array of tents. Yessssss! We weren’t terribly far! As we cheered our good luck, our guide quickly (all too quickly…) replied: “That’s not our camp, that is base camp for the Mweka Route ascent and we are not allowed to stay there since we are no longer on the ascent. You see that piece of metal over there (he pointed to a structure far, far away)? That’s where we are going.” Our collective jaws dropped (and almost hit the rocks, I am sure). NO WAY, José! (OK, his name was Luis, not José.) That was a massive bummer.

Not quite a trail of tears but it may have been close at that moment

We continued our descent and, at times, it felt that that piece of metal was actually getting further away (I swear that it did look that way). A couple of times our path became a smooth dirt trail which would thrill us tremendously only to turn a corner and resume the very rocky terrain. It was an exhausting, frustrating, and demanding-on-the-knees 4.5 hours walk down.

I almost wished I were back in the Barafu Camp, resting and breathing dusty thin air at 15,000 ft+ altitude. But not quite. Remembering that helped me push forward knowing that what we were doing was the best approach and the camp we were going to was much better than Barafu.

Trekker in Kilimanjaro after 6 days of no shaving

Though exhausted, I trekked on. Or was I just considering jumping off the nearest cliff?? (This is what 6 days in the mountain look like!)

The most difficult part of MY climb – the descent from Uhuru Peak

Most of these 4.5 hours actually were the most mentally and physically difficult part for me of the entire 7 days. For sure, the accelerated heart rate on day 4 slowed me down and made me worry. Yes, on ascent night, I wondered if I would make it when I surrendered my backpack to my guide.

Yes, we were getting more and more oxygen on the descent as we went. To the point where, somewhere along these 4.5 hours, we must have reached an altitude to which our body had acclimatized to already. I am sure were not adjusted to 15,000 ft though we had spent part of the day on day 5 there so it was possible.

But, I just didn’t see an end to the rocky path on day 6 and the Mweka Camp kept looking very far away any time we spotted it. It was a true test of will power for me to finish that path. At this point, the group was not together. It had splintered some but always in small groups with one or two guides along them so never not-taken-care-of. I walked with a fellow trekker most of these last few hours and one or two guides (it varied). I took some Advils (ibuprofen) along the way to lower my knee pain and prevent it from getting worse. That helped with the physical part but I was mentally running out of gas.

Finally, camp!

But, all good things (ha!) come to an end, and we reached our destination for the day: Mweka Camp. It is certainly not the most amazing camp in the mountain. But, at that precise moment, it was heaven. The customary “signing of the guestbook to prove we had been there” done, we approached our tents for a final night of camping. Hot water was brought to us and I happily washed off my face and did what I could to clean myself before having dinner. One final night of dirty Raul. LOL…

Our mess tent was a palace that night!

That meal may not have been spectacular by most standards but we were exhausted and we loved sitting around that mess tent one last time on the mountain, eating and reflecting on what we had just done. The amazing feat and experience that was reaching the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, of getting to the roof of Africa. I didn’t linger though, I was tired and wanted to get everything ready and go to bed.

Happiness in a tent

Getting off the mountain

On day 7, we woke up all ready to go: This was our freedom day! Don’t get me wrong, I was eager to climb Kilimanjaro and enjoy the mountain. But once we had reached the summit, we were ALL about getting to the hotel and a nice shower.

We trekked down for maybe about 3 hrs from an altitude of 10,000 ft or so to the Mweka Gate at an elevation of 6,000 ft (3,800 m). The climate zone went to full forest again, as we had experienced on day 1 and the moorlands were done. The clothing was lighter and so was our mood. Someone even rode the emergency stretcher that was laying about during one of our breaks…

I found my happy place: the Mweka Gate hut!

Finally, the sight we wanted and were ready to see. The Mweka Gate hut where we would sign in one last time. That signature proving we made it to that gate. The gate also being the place where we would sit around for an hour+ to wait for the certificates that would prove we HAD climbed Kilimanjaro (though there was no book to sign at Uhuru Peak…). We were not getting those certificates just yet as that took time. Our local outfitter, Zara Tours, would also be issuing us a certificate since their guides knew we did make it. We would receive both certificates that evening at the celebration with our guides and porters.

Exiting the Mweka Route trail to hiti Mweka Gate in Kilimanjaro

About to leave the trail!!! I found a happy place!

While waiting to leave the mountain, folks would come by selling us stuff but we knew we could get all that cheaper elsewhere.

At Mweka Gate waiting for our certificates for our climb of Kilimanjaro

Waiting leaning against the wall and sitting in the shade. With a beer in hand. Heavenly. (I am sitting to the right with the red t-shirt)

Trekkers from Utah wishing that the park was using a computerized system…

However, one of my fellow trekkers eyed a beer seller. He looked at me and, of course, I wouldn’t leave a buddy drinking on his own. Especially after a week of no alcohol and a hike of 3 hours… That’s when the first beer was bought. Others in the group looked at us like “really?” Fast forward 20 minutes and most everyone had a beer in their hand! And off we went to the bus, to get to the Springlands Hotel and back to being clean!!!

Trekkers leaving Mweka Gate after climbing Kilimanjaro

On the way to the hotel! (Photo courtesy of K. Shuman)

The descent, as you can see, was a mixed set of emotions and terrains. It is amazing how little time it takes to descend. The feeling of accomplishment once you get to the Mweka Gate is incredible. And so is the entire experience of spending seven days on this incredible mountain, home to the roof of Africa: Kilimanjaro!

If you are planning your own climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro, I would appreciate letting me know via the comments if the info here (or in my other posts about Kili) has been helpful or what else may help you dream of or plan for the hike! I have described what descending from Kilimanjaro’s summit felt like to me. Would really enjoy reading how that went and felt for others. I am sure there are different experiences!

One final look up at Kilimanjaro from the final stretch of the Mweka Route… I was up THERE!!!!

Looking down after the scree field crossing towards our former basecamp (Barafu Camp) where we would stop for lunch. Pin this image and stay focused on this as your goal after reaching the summit!